It’s embarrassing to admit, but ten years ago, when I first started going to Joshua Tree National Park, I got lost. I’d been shuffling along, marveling at the sheer magnitude of the fractured monzogranite towers, when I realized that the trail had vanished. I clambered atop the nearest pile of bouldersÌýand took stock of the situation: an endless, undulating desert sparkling in the midday heat—and thankfully, a familiar beige ribbon in the not too far distance.

I offer this anecdote not to dissuade a visit, but to say that Joshua Tree is so mesmerizing that it’s pretty easy to get turned around out there. It’s also prettyÌýdamn vast. Originally home to the Cahuilla, Chemehuevi, Mojave,ÌýSerrano, and Western Shoshone peoples, the park contains nearly 800,000 acres, more than a third of them designated wilderness, and many of those trail-free, a siren call to anyone who might enjoy a little desert solitaire.

But this is no lonely swath of sand. The whole place is riddled with snaking canyons, hidden oases, and bulbous rocksÌýhosting a variety of wildlife, including bobcats, coyotes, jackrabbits, and the threatened Mojave desert tortoise. In addition, the Southern California park receives nearly three million visitors a year who fan across its dual regions—the more arid and remote Colorado Desert, to the east, and the higher-elevation and more heavily developedÌýMojave Desert, to the west. The latter is where you’ll find the highest concentrationÌýof the park’s Seussian namesake, which is not a tree at allÌýbut a monocot, a flowering plant that’s related to yucca.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Joshua Tree National Park

Beware the spiky chollas.

During one of my earliest Joshua Tree hikes, a spindly segment of pencil cholla pierced through the thick rubber of my boot soles. Not long after plucking it out, I accidentally kicked a hefty wad of TeddybearÌýCholla into my tender calf. This is to say: pay attention to your surroundings. Long sleeves and pants help prevent contact with pointy pests, but the importance of a kit featuringÌýa beefy set of pliers to pry off stems from shoesÌýcan’t be underestimated.

Prepare to put your navigational skills to the test.

Despite all the thorny traps, my favorite way to experience Joshua Tree is to ramble cross-country; for this, a good map and solid backcountryÌýskills are crucial. Spend a day finding your way to Quail Mountain, the park’s high point at 5,814Ìýfeet, and nearby , neither of which have developed trails to their summits. The latter is named for a woman who lobbied Franklin D. Roosevelt to designate the area as a national park; while it was first protected as a national monument, Hoyt’s wish was granted in 1994, almost 50 years after her death. The peaks are located several miles west of the Hidden Valley Picnic Area as the crow flies; several established off-trail routes exist from the north and the east, so dig into some research and consult a topo map before committing to a plan.

Embrace the golden hours.

Joshua Tree is pure magic during the wee hours. Light pollution is minimal, so the night skies absolutely sparkle.ÌýAugust is a stargazer’s delight during the Perseid meteor shower. Set your alarm to catch sunrise the next day.ÌýThe , located on Pinto Basin Road atÌýthe park’s center, and Ìý(boasting sight lines to the glittering Salton Sea and beyond), farther west at the end of Keys View Road, are especially picturesque at this time.

How to Get There

The nearest airport is , located less than an hour from the park’s quiet south entrance off Interstate 10. There’s not much in this area besides tumbleweeds and highway traffic, but you’ll findÌýÌýseven miles from the park’s southern entrance. ItsÌý62-siteÌýÌýis a less in-demandÌýoption thanÌýlodging within the parkÌýduring high season (from the end of August through early June, when it accepts reservations only, from $25), and has several hiking trails. Detour to , 25 minutes southeast ofÌýthe airport,Ìýfor a thick date shake to sweeten the drive.

The smallÌýbut colorful community of Joshua Tree is home to the west entrance and its namesake visitor center, although the park’s most popular features are about a 30-minute drive into the park. It’s most frequently used by visitors coming from Los Angeles.ÌýThe Ìýfrom Los Angeles InternationalÌýAirportÌýoffers plenty of diversions; it’s practically required to stop and snap a photo beside one of the famous —you’ll know them when you see them, especially if you’re a Pee-wee Herman fan.

The north entrance is located just below the city ofÌý, known for its Marine Corps base and vibrantÌýpublic murals. Enjoy the sights, then cool down with a stroll through the shady and adjacent . During high season, use this entrance to avoid long waits, and pay park fees at the visitor center for even faster entry.

What’sÌýthe Best Time of Year to Visit Joshua Tree?

While hearty locals and curious visitors cruise the park year-round (even during its sultry summer season, when temperatures often hit 100 degrees),Ìýcrowds swell in the more temperate fall and spring months, which maintain a rangeÌýof 50 to 85 degrees, dipping only during the harshest winter conditions, when it can get as low as 35 degrees.

Fall

Prime time begins in October, when temperatures downshift from summer’s triple-digit highs and visitors begin to pour in. You’ll likely have to jockey for parking at most established trailheads, so arrive early in the day. Campgrounds also fill up quickly, at least over the weekends, so have a backup plan—say, or springing for a hotel room—if you’re rolling up without a reservation.

Winter

The months of December and JanuaryÌýare mercurial: one day you’re playing lizard on a sunny rock, andÌýthe nextÌýyou’re swaddled in a pile of down. Layers are key. Biting winds, rainstorms, and snow showers aren’t uncommon, but the upside for those prepared for the finicky elements is that cold temperatures and precipitation keep the shoulder season’sÌýlarger crowds at bay (though you won’t be completely alone on trails or at camp).

Spring

Thanks to abundant wildflowers and mild temperatures, spring is the most popular season in Joshua Tree.ÌýJoshua trees begin sprouting their creamy blossoms in February, and bright splotches from blooming cacti and wildflowers—including the desert lily, sand verbena, and ocotillo—dot the desert floor through April.

Summer

A visit between May and September grants more solitudeÌýbut not without significant cost: temperatures often top 100 degrees. Come prepared with ample water, protective clothing, and perhaps even an umbrella or shade structure for your campsite. And take it easy—heat-related illnesses are common and sometimes prove fatal.

Where to Stay in Joshua Tree National Park

In the Park

Snagging a campsite in Joshua Tree is a competitive sport during peak seasons; no day of the week is easy, though the odds improve midweek. The Indian Cove, Black Rock, Jumbo Rocks, Ryan, and Cottonwood Campgrounds (from $20) are Hidden Valley, Belle, and White Tank are first-come, first-served (and some, including Belle and Ryan, with the latter two closed during the summer (from $15). My favorite of these is , a small and somewhat remote campground that’s a 20-minute drive from the park’s Twentynine Palms entrance on Pinto Basin Road. From camp, it’s a short walk along a half-mile nature trail to find excellent sunrise views at nearby Arch Rock. Dirtbags frequent the more centrally located for its proximity to primo climbing at massive Intersection Rock. Expect to make friends if you have climbing gear lying around.

Beyond the Park

If you strike out in the park, there’s (from $15), about 20 minutes north of the main entrance. It’s an affordable option that lacks the park’s iconic boulder piles but makes up for it with a small, serene fishing lake. Alternatively, you can set up on a checkerboard of BLM parcels scattered just below the southern entrance, off of Cottonwood Springs Road and Interstate 10. For less sandy digs, book a room at the charming (from $138), or bunk down in one of ten themed rentals at (from $115), something of a summer camp for adults thanks to amenities that include an archery range, Ping-Pong table, and mini-golf course. Both are a ten-minute drive from the park’s west entrance. Twentynine Palms boasts far more lodging. The (from $140) is one of its most unique, with lush landscaping, rustic cabins, colorful adobes, and an organic garden that’s harvested for an on-site restaurant. And Instagrammable Airbnb rentals abound along Highway 62, from rustic desert cabinsÌýto geodesic dome houses.

The Best ºÚÁϳԹÏÍøs in Joshua Tree National Park

While driving around to ogle Joshua Tree’s iconic rock formations is a noble pursuit in itself, this playful landscape is best experienced on foot.ÌýBe sure to pack in all the water you’ll need,ÌýbecauseÌýthere’s very little available in the park beyond at the visitor centers and . And download any maps or apps ahead of time asÌýcell service is effectively nonexistent.

Hiking

The around Barker Dam, located off its namesake road in the north side of the park, is a family-friendly option that passes one of Joshua Tree’sÌýfew watering holes, a pond that nurtures plant life and risesÌýduring winter rains, which makes it one of the best sites to view migrating birds. At the dam site, look for an inscription in the concrete and a spiral-shaped trough below, remnants of the area’s cattle-ranching history. Farther ahead, an obvious turnoff leads to a cave decorated with petroglyphs.

Ten minutes south, on Park Boulevard, the popular to Ryan Mountain leads to can’t-miss views of the park’s western half, including the massive boulder piles that form the Wonderland of Rocks. For more solitude, depart from on the park’s quieter western edge for a 6.3-mile out-and-back hike to the summit of Warren Peak, a craggy promontory that offers front-row views of two SoCalÌýgems—San Gorgonio Mountain and Mount San Jacinto, often snowcapped from fall through spring.

Of course, no Joshua Tree experience is complete without a trip through its gold-loving past. The moderately difficult to Lost Horse Mine, located off Keys View Road, features the well-preserved remnants of aÌýsuccessful mine thatÌýgenerated the modern equivalent of $5 million worth of gold and silver ore during its heydayÌýas well asÌýexpansive vistas across the park’s southernmost reaches. For a longer alternative, set up a car shuttle to day-hike or backpack the 16-mile roundtrip Boy Scout Trail, which skirts the impressive Wonderland of Rocks and offers a side trip just over a mile from its southern terminus to visit Willow Hole, a seasonal water source and wildlife draw that rings its famed tree.

Climbing

The rock here is world-famous—and famously sandbagged—soÌýcheck your ego before chalking up. Winter and spring offer the grippiest rock, but that iconic grit will also chew the flesh right off your fingers, so pack plenty of tape and antibiotic ointment.

While it doesn’t have much to offer sport climbers, the park boasts thousands of slabby boulder problems and crack-laden trad routes spread far and wide.ÌýAÌýbike, car, or opposable thumb is necessary to get around. The Hidden Valley area is popular, due to its proximity to its namesake , but no matter where you climb, bring plenty of sun protection, approach shoes, and a level head.ÌýRunouts are common,Ìýas are surprisingly spicy walk-offs.

Robert Miramontes’sÌý is the book to carry if you’re dragging a crash pad.Ìý rents well-worn copies. For more hands-on instruction, consider taking a class or springing for a private guide from . You can also snag beta from rangers and fellow dirtbags at the Climbers CoffeeÌýsessions offered weekend mornings at during the high season.

Horseback Riding

While riding across an exposed, waterless desert isn’t for everyone, well-prepared equestrians (including those who hire the knowledgeable guides at , from $135 for 90 minutes) will be able to access over 250 miles of …horse-friendly paths, including a 37-mile chunk of the much larger California Riding and Hiking Trail, which stretches from Black Rock Campground in the park’s northwest corner to its north entrance near Twentynine Palms.

Bird-Watching

Pack your binoculars, bird nerds. Thanks to its location along the famous Pacific Flyway migration route, the park hosts over 250 species of songbirds, waterbirds, and raptors. Year-round, you’ll likely spotÌýquail, roadrunners, egrets, osprey, red-tailed hawks, and bald eagles. But visit in spring for max avian stoke.

Cycling

While singletrack is off-limits, bikes are allowed on all of Joshua Tree’s public roads. Stick to the dirt roadsÌýfor more solitude and adventure. Queen Valley Road, which begins just south of the , is a relatively chill cruise that leads to the trailhead for Desert Queen Mine. Lock your bike at the trailhead and hike in 1.5 miles to view the remains of historic stone buildings and mining equipment.ÌýFarther west, climb some 400 feet on remote Eureka Peak Road to reach its eponymous summit and excellent views. Check in with the folks at for additional recommendations and rentals.

Where to Eat and Drink Around Joshua Tree

The community of Joshua Tree, ten minutes north ofÌýthe park’s west entrance, is smallÌýbut mighty when it comes to eats; plus, everything is within walking distance of the town’s sole stoplight. I’ve spent more mornings than I can count hunched over a strong cup of joe (roasted by ; snag an excellent bag of beans at their storefront across the road) and a plate of salsa-slathered eggs and polenta at .

For lunchÌýI pull up a stool (and order a pint), then sink into a portobello burger at the . For lighter fare, it’s over to theÌýÌýfor a smoothie. On the rare occasion I’m not scarfing dinner by headlamp, I head straight to (these multitasking entrepreneurs also own a convenience store next door) for a belly full of curry.

Twentynine Palms offers a more expansive selection of eateries, including fast-food joints you won’t find in the town of Joshua Tree. Skip those in favor of , a cozy and creative eatery with Caribbean-inspired foodÌýlocated on Mesquite Avenue; it’s also a great place to hammer away at your keyboard if the need should arise. You don’t need to be a guest to enjoy an evening at ; grab a seat at the poolside bar and restaurant for cocktails and upscale comfort food, much of it crafted from itsÌýon-site garden.

If You Have Time for a Detour

South Entrance

If entering from the south, it’s worth the mileage to drop 30Ìýminutes down to the Salton Sea, a highly saline (and rapidly disappearing) lake formed accidentally at the turn of the 20th century when the Colorado River flooded an existing irrigation system. There’s a visitor center and campground on its north shore at the , which offers great bird-watching, with several hundred species of feathered friends making their way through on their winter migrations. Forty minutes southeast of here sits , a vibrant folk-art installation with religious overtones and pop-culture connotations. The site served as aÌýbackdrop for a memorable scene in the film adaptation of Into the Wild.

West Entrance

The long stretch of Highway 62 between Morongo Valley and Twentynine Palms offers plenty of diversions and deserves at least a full day of your itinerary. Heading east, begin with a saunter around the lush , a major stopover on the Pacific Flyway and part of the , to enjoy the very rare sight of desert wetlands. From there, drive ten minutes to caffeinate at ’s rustic , then veer northÌýa few minutes more to sit a spell at the rustic , equal parts dive bar, BBQ joint, and world-class music venue (I highly recommend making dinner reservations and scoring show tickets as itsÌýoutdoor stage is unforgettable, no matter who’s playing). Farther north, in tiny Landers,Ìýmake an appointment well ahead of time to align your chakras to the dulcet tones of a sound bath at the (from $50), a domed structure that sits on a geomagnetic vortex in the Mojave Desert. Closer to the park’s Joshua Tree entrance, trace a series of dusty roads to arrive at the (free of charge, open sunrise to sunset), an immersive homage to its namesake creator, who used discarded materials to concoct fantastical sculptures.

How to Be Conscious

Judging from the news coverage of vandals running amok, you’d think Joshua Tree was overrun with trash and criminals. While some damage has occurred over the years, the impacts were mitigated by local groups, including and the , whichÌýtake stewardship seriously, and aside from occasional sprays of graffiti, most visitors doÌýas well.

The park’s ecosystems are fragile, so enter with a spirit of respect, and research seasonal restrictions. If you venture off-trail, take care to avoid trampling underfoot. This dark and delicate crust, which traps rainfall and provides structural stability, is comprised of living organisms and can take years to rebuild once crushed.

In more well-traveled areas, look out for climbing and overnight-camping restrictions, which are frequently enacted to protect nesting raptors and desert bighorn sheepÌýas well asÌýallow wildlife unfettered access to precious water resources. On the subject of climbing: any bolting, even the replacement of existing hardware, requires permits, and power drills are not allowed in the wilderness. The place is packed with traces of human history—petroglyphs, pictographs, shelters, mines, mills, and beyond, which endure damage over time just from human touch.

Editor’s Note: We frequently update this National Parks guide, which was originally published on Oct 28, 2019.

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Once upon a time, planning for the worst in the wild meant packing a signal mirror and a bunch of flares. With the , you don't need any of those things.Ìý

The Beartooth is essentially a cover that you place over your existing smartphone. Similar to the goTenna, it acts as an antenna to communicate with another Beartooth device. Basically, itÌýturns your phone into a specialized radio that'sÌýself-sufficient from cell phone towers or Wi-Fi signals.* It also adds a whole new range of features, including voice, encrypted text, geolocation, and beaconing, along with SOS broadcast access for any device in range. The big battery pack doubles the current battery life of your phone.Ìý

Satellite phones are still unparalleled in service, but they come with a hefty price tag. For the casual alpinist and seasonal festival-goer, Beartooth might be the better option. Bring it with you to Coachella where networks are slammed or for that weekend through-hike far from cell service.

$TBD,

*This sentence was modified to clarify how Beartooth Radio and goTenna work.

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Crested Butte, Colorado
Why It Beats Cancú;n » There’s a reason Crested Butte hosts the national extreme-skiing, -snowboarding, and -teleskiing championships: More than 40 percent of the mountain’s 1,073 acres is designated double-black-diamond terrain. Added bonus: The resort’s new owners have shined up the mountain’s sagging infrastructure.

Where the Action Is » Down a post-powder pint at the mountainside Butte 66 Roadhouse BBQ, then grab a shuttle to Crested Butte proper for steak and martinis at the Wooden Nickel.

There’s More » Crested Butte Mountain Guides (970-349-5430, ) will lead you on a four-day Spring Break Blast into the backcountry, where you’ll spend nights in a spacious alpine hut. Or book a dogsled tour with Lucky Cat Dog Farm (970-641-1636, ), in nearby Gunnison.

Where to Stay » The Grand Lodge (doubles, $231; 888-823-4446, ), just 200 yards from the lifts, has a full spa, gym, and pool. Or consider Club Med Crested Butte (doubles from $960, three nights all-inclusive; 800-258-2633, ), at the base of the Red Lady Express lift.

Joshua Tree National Park, California

Joshua Tree National Park, California

The mountains and mole hills of Joshua Tree National Park

Why It Beats Cancú;n » World-class rock climbing (6,000-plus established routes) and bouldering in a secluded 794,000-acre desert playground about 150 miles east of Los Angeles.

Where the Action Is » Joshua Tree straddles two deserts: the Mojave and the Colorado (which is part of the Sonoran Desert). Climbers and hikers generally stick to the higher Mojave region, which flanks the park’s northern boundary.

There’s More » Climbing is the star attraction here. If you’re eager to learn, take a beginner’s course from Vertical ºÚÁϳԹÏÍøs (800-514-8785, ), in Joshua Tree. Alternatively, pack a GPS and do some peripatetic backpacking.

Where to Stay » There are nine different campgrounds, but the climbers tend to congregate at Hidden Valley (760-367-5500, ), where a handful of sport-climbing routes jut directly from tent sites. If you must have a roof over your head, try the 29 Palms Inn (doubles from $110; 760-367-3505, ), in nearby Twentynine Palms, where you can reserve a 70-year-old adobe with a fireplace and private patio.

Tulum, Mexico

Why It Beats Cancú;n » Escape the sweaty crush of spring break farther north and head 90 minutes south of Cancú;n to Tulum, a sleepy pueblo on the Yucatá;n’s east coast. Tulum’s virtually deserted beaches make it a far better spot to soak up the tropical vibe and take in the surrounding Maya ruins.

Where the Action Is » Action isn’t exactly the operative word here. Since electricity is limited, guests spend evenings tiki-bar-hopping between the handful of resorts along the beach.

There’s More » Have your hotel arrange a bike excursion to the ruins and then take an afternoon plunge in one of Tulum’s cenotes, or freshwater swimming holes. Or sea-kayak through the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve (011-52-998-884-9580, ), 1.5 million acres of mangrove swamps, coastal dunes, savannas, and freshwater lagoons to the south.

Where to Stay » The two-year-old Amansala Eco-Chic Resort & Spa ($1,075 per person for three nights; 011-52-984-1000-717, ) features “bohemian chic” beach cabanas stocked with candles and incense. It also offers yoga classes, surf-side massages, and a session in a temezcal, or Maya sweat lodge.

Cabarete, Dominican Republic

Cabarete, Dominican Republic

Serene views in an extreme realm

Why It Beats Cancú;n » Canadian windsurfer Jean Laporte put this town on the map back in the eighties, but these days kiteboarders are flocking to the protected waters, where afternoon thermals arrive like clockwork.

Where the Action Is » Downtown Cabarete, a mile-long strip, is jammed with bars, restaurants, and hotels. Every evening the revelry spills onto the sand, where merengue beats waft from the bars until the wee hours of the morning.

There’s More » Iguana Mama (800-849-4720, ), in Cabarete, can arrange canyoneering, river-rafting, and mountain-biking trips. Schedule surfing and kiteboarding lessons with Take Off (809-963-7873, ) or a scuba excursion at the Hippocampo Dive Centre (809-571-0834, ), in nearby Sosua.

Where to Stay » The newly renovated Extreme Cabarete hotel (doubles from $60; 809-571-0880, ) caters to adventure junkies with its on-site kiteboarding school and 40-foot-wide skater halfpipe. It’s the first property from 34-year-old Silicon Valley CEO–cum–surf bum Bill Lee, who plans to open at least one more by 2007.

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I have found the rock of truht (sic), but you probably won’t. Oh, it’s out there, one of several hippo-size stones in the sea of rocky desert that is Joshua Tree National Park. Just walk about three miles west from Quail Springs picnic area and bear north at the wash. You’re looking for a 50-foot pile of boulders rendered almost invisible by harsh light and the monochrome terrain. You may not see it until you literally stumble into it—not a bad metaphor, in fact, for the search for truth. These are Samuelson’s Rocks, a self-created monument to an old Swedish sailor turned prospector who devoted long years to carving his every thought into the faces of these impossibly hard granite stones.

It’s here that you’ll find the Rock of Truht. It announces itself plainly: “The rock of faiht and truht,” reads the first inscription on its side. Followed by “Nature is God.” And nearby, rather disconcertingly, “Wake up, you tax and bond slaves.”

As a lifelong habitué of Joshua Tree—I was born about 60 miles away—I’d often heard about Samuelson’s Rocks and these nutty and moving inscriptions laboriously cut into the stone 70 years ago. But I’d never bothered to seek them out until now. Like most J-Tree regulars, I’d usually come just for the climbing, rushing rather heedlessly to bag as many of the park’s 5,000-plus climbing routes as possible and grow my confidence on the awesome purchase of the grittiest granite on the planet.

But in recent trips I’ve come to realize that Joshua Tree is so much more capacious than its 5.8s and 5.9s, enthralling as those may be. It’s also a place of otherworldly beauty and mystery, a massive, stark, surreal landscape where private little monuments such as Samuelson’s feel not at all out of place. Hike past the skyscraping boulders or turn off the main roads onto long-abandoned mining tracks and this other Joshua Tree envelops you—lonely, silent, sere, and enrapturing. This is the heart of the Mojave Desert, where miners once dug gold from the sun-baked mountains, where chollas still outnumber climbers (though the climbers are gaining), and where faiht and truht lie embedded in the rocks, if you only know where to look.

Hidden Valley

There’s no Going-to-the-Sun Road in Joshua Tree—which is to say, there’s no true hub to the place. But Hidden Valley comes closest, given its accessibility and the access it in turn provides to some of the park’s most inviting terrain, including many of its best climbs. Try to arrive by way of the north entrance to the park—near the little town of Twentynine Palms—where there’s a visitor center with a bookstore, a nature exhibit, and a continuous-loop video that includes music from U2’s The Joshua Tree.

Less a true valley than a series of passageways amid huge boulder formations, Hidden Valley has always been climbing nirvana, especially in the Turtle Rock formation to the south and on the nicely named Sports Challenge Rock, the centerpiece of what climbers call Real Hidden Valley. (Plain old Hidden Valley is the campground across the road, by the way.) A mile-long nature trail skirts the base of Sports Challenge for those who just like to watch. Or you can accept the gauntlet and follow a short offshoot trail that leads east across a wooden bridge to free standing Hidden Tower. Like many of J-Tree’s routes, this one isn’t as difficult as it looks—the holds are there where you need them —but its sheer verticality makes the 5.9 ascent a heart-thumping rush.

Or consider doing what I do these days: leave the harness at home. The history of Hidden Valley is in a ghostly, insinuating way every bit as memorable as its handholds. Just 1.5 miles north of the campground is the Desert Queen Ranch, built by that Edison of desert survival, Bill Keys. This indomitable tinkerer (1879-1968) managed to wrest enough water from the desert to run a cattle ranch, power stamping mills at his gold mines, and irrigate an orchard. Today his ranch, empty for decades, is under the stewardship of the national park. Visit on a quiet, hot afternoon—the homestead is open to the public by prearrangement with park headquarters—and you may see bighorn sheep perched on a rock ledge above the schoolhouse while sunlight sparks off the slowly rusting carts and machinery. It takes guts and implacability to create such a pocket of civilization in the empty Mojave.

Of course, it also takes water, which Keys provided in part by building the nearby Barker Dam. If any rain at all has fallen recently, the dam’s mortared-stone barrier will catch and hold it—accounting for the improbable sight of a No Swimming sign in this bone-dry park. (To reach the dam, take the dirt road east from the campground to Barker Dam Nature Trail.) More likely, however, no illicit pool will tempt you, so you can instead continue along the trail to find the most vivid “pictographs” in the entire Mojave Desert—presumably painted onto the red rock by a 1950s Disney film crew to add a touch of “realism” to the 1961 movie Chico the Misunderstood Coyote.

Jumbo Rocks

The name would seem to be a synonym for most of Joshua Tree, but this campground about eight miles east of Hidden Valley is in fact home to several hundred-foot-high pates of monzonite granite that are perfect for scrambling and for a little geological pedagogy. Take Skull Rock, for instance; you’ll recognize it by the eye sockets. Most of the shaping of the monzonite here was done underground. Only when the upper layer of Pinto gneiss weathered away did the monzonite see the light of day. Surprise and impress your friends by remarking that Skull Rock’s declivities, which appear to be wind-carved, are actually the result of water erosion. Then coolly walk away.

In fact, walking is the best way to see Jumbo Rocks and the surrounding countryside, but don’t expect much in the way of signage. Even a fairly obvious trail, such as the one that leads three miles south from camp to an aerie known as Crown Prince, peters out near the base of the formation; from there, you’ll have to devise your own scrambling route to the summit. But you’ll be suitably rewarded: Your view sweeps 360 degrees out over much of the park, including westward to the often-snowcapped Mount San Jacinto and Mount San Gorgonio, the tallest peaks in southern California.

North of Jumbo Rocks, if you’re up to some cross-desert bushwhacking, you can forge a loop that includes a unique dwelling above Eagle Cliff Mine, a clever, makeshift stone hut built by turn-of-the-century prospectors. A faint path leads northwest from the Split Rock picnic area steeply up the side of unnamed slopes and then descends abruptly toward the mine. Scan carefully on the way down or you’ll miss the aforementioned highlight: Look for the live oak tree that marks the entrance to what is, in reality, a lean-to made of 30-foot-high boulders. Impecunious miners simply filled the cracks between the slabs with crude stone walls and put in a four-pane window—still intact, as is an ancient cast-iron oven. There’s something so haunting about the place that it’s been left undisturbed by the few hikers who’ve stumbled across it.

Complete the loop by forging a route south to Desert Queen Mine, once the source of much of Bill Keys’s income. The mine shafts have been screened over to avoid Baby Jessica-style tragedies, but you can peer into the darkness and imagine what it must have been like to emerge blinking from the tunnel into the bright, searing daylight. Shake yourself from this reverie and loop back east to the trailhead at Split Rock. The distance is only three miles total. But as with all of Joshua Tree’s best hikes, measurements are indistinct. Rarely will you feel so remote in time and space, especially at that moment when you peer through the miners’ dingy window into the home they wrested from the stone.

Wonderland of Rocks

Like plenty of other J-Tree climbers, I cut my teeth—and fingertips—at Indian Cove, on the northern fringe of a vast, dazzling maze called the Wonderland of Rocks. The Wonderland extends from the northern end of the park south all the way to Hidden Valley, a total of about seven miles. At Indian Cove, climbers ritualistically survey the day’s first climb over morning coffee, with the distance from breakfast to belay about a picnic-table’s length. Nearby is a great training ground called Short Wall, sporting a dozen or so routes rated from Class 4 to 5.11c, all readily top-roped, all with easy walk-offs. Deeper in the Wonderland are some of the most technically difficult climbs in the park—places like the Ivory Tower, whose La Machine (5.13d) remains only twice-climbed.

But by attaching themselves exclusively to the rock face, climbers are missing the most magical part of the Wonderland: Hiking here is in fact spectacular, especially the Rattlesnake Canyon route, which is about as much fun as day hiking gets. Beginning at the Indian Cove picnic area, head east and then south up the obvious wash. Then, using a topo map (there’s no marked trail), aim for the slot canyon, a skinny cleft that grows progressively narrower over the course of a mile until you’re scrambling, grunting, and bouldering your way up, ascending tiers into the depths of the Wonderland maze. Wander as far as you wish; just heed the abiding rule of desert hiking: turn back when your water’s half gone. It’s possible to cut all the way through the Wonderland to Quail Springs Road in Hidden Valley (14 miles one way). But it’s illegal to camp overnight en route.

For that ineffable experience, you’ll need to try the Wonderland’s classic route, the eight-mile Boy Scout Trail, which begins just south of the park entrance. Set up a car shuttle with a partner, register at the backcountry sign-in board on Indian Cove Road, and head off through the rocky Wonderland. The route emerges into open desert about five miles later. Camp anywhere and watch the star spectacle overhead. Next day, hike out to Quail Springs Road. Like all desert pilgrimages, this one should leave your soul lightened and refreshed. On the other hand, it’ll be damned hard on your corporeal self if you don’t carry sufficient water—about four gallons (yup, that’s 32 pounds) per person. But the hike is certainly worth the strain, and blessedly, the load gets lighter with each passing hour.

Samuelson’s Rocks

End your Joshua Tree sojourn by making a stab at finding this most evocative of sites. It won’t be easy: since it’s not marked on the USGS maps, you may have to beseech a ranger to circle it for you on your topo or provide you detailed directions; the best my guide could come up with was, “When you come to the wash that would take you south toward Johnny Lang Canyon, bear north instead.” In effect, then, you’ll just have to re-create Samuelson’s own journey, setting out blindly into the desert—though you’ll be starting from the relative security of the picnic grounds at Quail Springs. Bear in mind that you may never find the spot. (If you’ve been hiking for more than two hours, you’ve missed it.) But if and when you do, stay awhile. Shadows will lengthen. A raven may circle overhead. The air will settle on you, baked and dry. And the carvings of that odd prophet Samuelson will animate the stone.
“Study nature,” he chiseled. “Obey the laws of it, you can’t go wrong.”

“Water is soft,” he continued, warming to the theme, “but with time, the ocean can griend [sic] the hardest granit [sic] to a powdered sand. So with time will the human race grind out its own destinies.”

And at the tail end of the Rock of Faiht and Truht: “Evolution is the mother and father of mankind. Without them we be nothing.”
On the afternoon I found Samuelson’s Rocks, I left soon after reading this last of his aphorisms. The sun was getting low, washing the rocks in a soft, tarnished glow. The chollas appeared taller and thornier than ever; the Joshua trees, their arms uplifted to heaven, more devout. A languid coyote woke from a nap in the shade of a creosote bush, stretched, and yawned as I passed. I doffed my cap to him, looked at the silent, empty landscape all around, and thought, Without this, we be nothing.

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