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Lees Ferry is the put-in for floating the 226 miles of canyon below (including beneath Navajo Bridge, seen here) on trips ranging from seven to 25 days. You can either apply for a self-guided permit (the success rate is roughly 27 percent) or join one of the canyon鈥檚 16 commercial outfitters (ranging from $2,000 to $6,000 per person; or ).

Much of the river is actually pretty placid for vast stretches through Grand Canyon National Park. The Roaring 20s are the exception. On the canyon鈥檚 one-to-ten scale鈥攐ne being a small riffle and ten being a giant drop鈥攁re seven exhilarating rapids rated above five.

From the outside, rafters might easily dismiss this scoop at the base of the canyon鈥檚 wall. But upon entering, the cavern opens up into a limestone amphitheater. Here, stratified walls studded with marine fossils arch overhead, and a sandy beach carpets the cave鈥檚 base.

Before her death last November, Katie Lee spent half a century working to restore Glen Canyon, a lost place that was even more astounding than the Grand.

The Nankoweap granaries, which date to A.D. 1,100, look like square windows cut into the side of Marble Canyon. Ancestral Puebloans stored grains here to keep them dry and safe from pests. The granaries can be accessed via a half-mile scramble from the beach or from the Nankoweap Trail, a difficult with steep drops, thorny brush, and little shade.

The meeting of the Little Colorado and Colorado is sacred to many Native American tribes. For years, a developer worked to build a 1.4-mile tram that would shuttle up to 10,000 daily visitors into the canyon. Activists in the Navajo Nation, however, were determined to defeat it.

In 1955, 22-year-old Boyd Moore tried to cross the Colorado was never seen again. His story is just one of many in the classic Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon. The book is far from the only one worth reading about the canyon.

More than 40 identified rock layers in the mile-high canyon walls recount a deep history of the planet鈥攆or those who know how to read it. Upper Granite Gorge, for instance, was formed some 55 million years ago. The geology of Grand Canyon also creates wild rock formations and rowdy rapids鈥攍ike the Grapevine (mile 81) and Zoroaster Canyon (mile 84).

The canyon has been occupied by Native peoples for centuries鈥攂ut that history is too often overlooked, says archaeologist Jason Nez

The 100-foot waterfall is known as the 鈥渆mergence place鈥� from which the Zuni Tribe originated. While the Zuni are now based in New Mexico, they maintain strong ties to the canyon. 鈥淓very water source is sacred,鈥� says Kenny Bowekaty, an archaeologist with the Pueblo of Zuni. Trouble in the Canyon: Though mining is banned in the park, the to re-open Canyon Mine, six miles south of the park, has caused controversy and

Just because you didn鈥檛 land a private permit to float the Colorado doesn鈥檛 mean you can鈥檛 enjoy its 40 layers of mind-jarring beauty. With a little planning and insider information, you can dodge the millions of visitors and enjoy some peace, quiet, and remarkable views by foot.

It鈥檚 not just the float that makes the canyon so special鈥攊t鈥檚 the views from camp as well.

In 1869, John Wesley Powell led nine men and four boats on the first documented descent through the Grand Canyon. As is made clear in this excerpt from John F. Ross鈥檚 (out July 2018 from Viking), it was a hell of a challenge.

This roughly nine-mile trail is rugged but offers spectacular crowd-free views (seen here). There鈥檚 designated camping at Hermit Creek or Hermit Rapids ($10 backcountry permit, plus $8 per person). Arizona Outback 黑料吃瓜网s leads guided three-day backpacking trips (from $795 per person; ).

One of the craziest speed records in ultrarunning takes athletes from the top of the canyon, down to the bottom, and then all the way back up again鈥攖wice.

The Glen Canyon Dam feeds the Colorado from the frigid depths of Lake Powell, meaning the river鈥檚 temperature hovers at an unnatural 46 degrees Fahrenheit. Elves Chasm, an iconic side canyon, is home to more temperate waters. The mineral-rich flow creates surreal hanging gardens that drop into a deep-blue swimming hole.

Nikki and Colleen Cooley want to get more Native Americans working on their sacred rivers.

It鈥檚 a rough ten-mile hike from the North Rim to Deer Creek Canyon, but it鈥檚 worth it to see a water-filled enclave in a desert landscape. Get a backcountry permit, bring your own water, and climb behind the waterfall to the Throne Room, where flat rocks form chairs where you can sit.

Rated an eight on the canyon鈥檚 scale, Upset Rapid got its name during the 1923 Birdswell Expedition, organized to complete a new map of the canyon, when boatman Emery Kolb flipped his dory.

These stunning turquoise falls are central to the Havasupai Tribe, whose name means 鈥減eople of the blue-green water.鈥� They have been vocal advocates against the mining and development near the canyon. The falls can be accessed from the river or via land by reserving a spot through the Havasupai.

Harvey Butchart hiked more than 12,000 miles and made 28 first ascents, and yet almost no one outside the close-knit canyon community knows his name.

One of the most powerful rapids in the canyon has long thwarted those trying to run it鈥攅specially those trying to make it down in record time.

Though the canyon continues downstream to Grand Wash Cliffs, many float trips take out at Diamond Creek.

Glen and Bessie Hyde were floating the Colorado on their honeymoon when they went missing near mile 237. Their bodies have never been found, sparking conspiracies about what happened to them. Did they drown? Did Bessie kill Glen to escape the marriage? Even today, the mystery endures.

Every day, more than 300 helicopters fly through the lower canyon from the Hualapai Reservation. Is Grand Canyon West turning into 鈥淟as Vegas East鈥� and ruining the park鈥檚 wilderness? Or is it saving a Native American tribe?

Georgie White Clark trash-talked clients and fed them beans for dinner鈥攂ut she also pioneered commercial rafting on the river

The Grand Wash Cliffs mark the end of the canyon鈥攐ne of the most remarkable places on the planet. Share the journey.