The rangers guessed that he died instantly.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\u201cA freak accident,\u201d people said after his death. It was the same analysis I\u2019d heard when a hiker went missing on Colorado\u2019s Longs Peak last year, and when rockfall killed yet another friend of mine in Wyoming\u2019s\u00a0 Wind River Range a few years prior.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThe assessment scared me. If freak accidents could happen to experienced adventurers\u2014if they could happen to my mentor\u2014then who was immune? It could happen to anyone. It could happen to me.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAt the time, I tried to take comfort in that hollow idea of \u201cdying well.\u201d When a person dies in the mountains, people regard them like a war hero. They mention the name of the deceased, and it echoes with a dark sense of awe. We revere them. That\u2019s the ghastly truth. So, in the days after Alexander\u2019s passing, I said the same, horrible thing everyone always says when someone dies too young: <\/span>He died doing what he loved.\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/p>\nWhen I said this to\u00a0 Alexander\u2019s dad in an email, he bristled. I knew that he had felt both pride and fear about Alexander\u2019s climbing in the past, but now his response cut straight through the bullshit.<\/span><\/p>\n\u201cHe had so many other talents, and now we will never have the chance to see him become one of the world\u2019s greats in any of those areas,\u201d Dan wrote back. \u201cIt seems like such an unimaginable waste of his life and his potential to change the world and to help innumerable people.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\nAlexander had been told something similar at some point in his life, either by his loving parents or some mountain philosopher in the books he read. He had taken the advice to its furthest reaches, mastering technical skills with a clockwork rigor and spending every spare moment hiking, running, and climbing\u2014all while working as a chemist and applying to medical school.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nAt Alexander\u2019s memorial service, I remember my own father\u2014the confident jokester, the outdoorsman\u2014gripping my shoulder. He stared me down, grim. <\/span> \n<\/span> \n<\/span>\u201cThis should be a lesson,\u201d he said. It was the first time I\u2019d ever seen him scared.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThree months later, in December of 2017, my father had an unexpected heart attack. I was 24, in Colorado at the time, preparing for a multi-pitch ice climb in the Rockies. But when I got the call, I scrapped the plan. A few days later, I flew to Atlanta to see him. It would be the first of many visits to the ICU.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI remember walking into his hospital room one day in February. I know it was only bright in there because of the harsh fluorescents, and the blinking lights that reflected against the slick plastic tubing like streetlights on pavement after rain. But when I peer into the memory, it feels bright with sunshine.<\/span><\/p>\nMy dad was dying. I didn\u2019t know it, but I think he did. I sat by his side, on a little stool by the hospital bed.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThere was hockey on TV. I remember the muffled, fast-talking baritone of the announcers, the dull, tinny roar of the crowd. A terrarium of joyful humanity, somewhere else, somewhere far away.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\u201cI\u2019m sorry I told you that you couldn\u2019t be a hockey player when you were younger,\u201d my dad said. It was a wheeze through parched lips. By this point it was hard to decipher his facial expressions. His face was so sunken, his skin like folded yellow paper. It had been a few weeks since the heart attack, and he\u2019d been on and off life support for a while. But his eyes were smirking, just a little. Same old dad.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nInside, he was the same man\u2014the man who had taught me how to hike and run and care about trees and spend long days outside in the Georgia woods. Maybe that\u2019s why it never occurred to me that he could be dying.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\u201cThat\u2019s OK,\u201d I laughed.<\/span><\/p>\nWe joked a little more but didn\u2019t talk about much else. There was too much to say to say much of anything. When I left the hospital that day, I told my dad to get better, OK? When he looked at me, all trace of that smirk was gone. <\/span> \n<\/span> \n<\/span>\u201cDo what you love,\u201d he said. It landed heavy, like a big statement, like he was desperate to get it out. I think I only nodded, or said something off-hand: \u201cOf course.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nIt was the last time I ever saw him. He was 53.<\/span> \n<\/span><\/p>\nHe believed the highest calling of a human being\u2014scientist or athlete, it didn\u2019t matter\u2014was to push the limits of human potential. This, he\u2019d said, is why we climb mountains.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nThe night before my dad\u2019s funeral, I lay awake staring at the ceiling, wondering. Had my dad done everything with his life that he had wanted to? Compared to Alexander, he\u2019d played it safe\u2014married young, bought a house, had kids, worked long hours at a corporate job. Ate healthy, ran five miles every morning. He led the kind of life the statisticians tell you will make you live forever. I knew he wanted to travel more, ski more, maybe try mountain biking. He\u2019d just never had the time.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI thought back to Dan\u2019s email to me, which had also said this: \u201cI am awed by the 10,000+ photos recovered from [Alexander\u2019s] shattered phone that document 3+ years of living a life that took him to innumerable remote places of unimaginable beauty. Who gets to do that? Who even dares to do that?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\nOn the top of Teewinot, as the sun cast the snow-streaked ridges of the Grand Teton in silver and pale rose, and the whole range unfurled beneath it in silent grandeur, I wondered. My dad died before he could do everything he wanted to do. Alexander died young doing exactly the things he\u2019d always dreamed of. Which was worse?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI didn\u2019t stop too long to ponder; we had too many miles to cover before dark.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nDark skies over the Tetons. <\/span> (Photo: Michael Leggero \/ Moment via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAs the sun finished its rise,<\/strong> Noah and I picked our way around the side of Mt. Teewinot, shuffling through talus and boulders. We were quiet then. The next summit on our journey was Peak 11,840. This is the one I\u2019d come for.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nWhen I\u2019d first proposed the idea of the Grand Traverse to Noah, I hadn\u2019t mentioned that Peak 11,840 was my true objective. It was the last descent Alexander had ever done. It was the rappel he\u2019d died on.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAnalysis of Alexander\u2019s phone data reveals that he got about four hours of sleep the night before his attempt of the Grand Traverse. Over the preceding two days, he\u2019d driven more than 15 hours on his way back from climbing in Alberta. He\u2019d reached Jackson after dark on August 21 and searched for beta and pictures of the route. He\u2019d searched its fastest known time.<\/span><\/p>\nOf course he did, <\/span><\/i>I\u2019d thought when Dan revealed all this to me<\/span>.<\/span><\/i> That was Alexander\u2019s MO: Why do something if you weren\u2019t going to really try?<\/span> Why climb a mountain if you couldn\u2019t be the first? Why hike a trail if you couldn\u2019t do it faster than the person who tried it before? Alexander was a researcher. He thrived on the cutting edge. He believed the highest calling of a human being\u2014scientist or athlete, it didn\u2019t matter\u2014was to push the limits of human potential. This, he\u2019d said, is why we climb mountains.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAs for me? I\u2019d always been afraid of the unknown. I was scared when I was a backpacker, scared when I got into mountaineering, and scared still when I started competing internationally as an ice climber.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nFear never seemed to touch Alexander. But for me, it never left. My method was to ignore it, to put my head down and keep charging, keep training\u2014keep running. I knew if I paused too long to truly consider the risks I took, I wouldn\u2019t be able to face them. I was afraid I\u2019d stop right there on the mountainside, turn back, go home, get married, have two kids, and watch the rest of my life unfold in a tick-tock rhythm, as settled and boring as the old American Dream.\u00a0<\/span>I was afraid I\u2019d end up living the life my dad had lived.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nOf course, I never stopped long enough to ponder this, either. There are always too many miles to cover. And the darkness always comes for us too soon. <\/span><\/p>\nOn the morning of August 22, 2017,<\/strong> on the southwest face of Peak 11,840, Alexander threaded his rope through two metal rings. It was the last in a series of three rappels. He knotted one end of the rope but not the other\u2014a common shortcut on alpine objectives of this magnitude\u2014and he threw the ends over the rocky bulge beneath him. He clipped his rappel device to the rope\u2019s two strands and prepared to descend.<\/span><\/p>\nThen, in the hazy twilight, he glided down, quickly, effortlessly, thinking no doubt about the peaks that lay ahead. The East Prong. Mt. Owen. The Grand Teton.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThen, suddenly, he was falling.<\/span><\/p>\nRangers found Alexander\u2019s left hand raw with rope-burn. For at least a few moments, he\u2019d known exactly what was happening. He\u2019d known that one end of the rope was longer than the other and that the short end\u2014the one without the knot\u2014had slipped straight through his rappel device, unraveling the whole system in a blur of snaking nylon. He\u2019d grabbed the rope as he felt it slip free, desperate to hold on. Maybe his eyes flew wide when he realized. Maybe he cried out as his hand was burning.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThis is the scene that played through my mind when we eased down onto the ledge where the first of the three rappels began.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\u201cHow are you feeling?\u201d Noah asked.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\u201cNervous.\u201d<\/span> \n<\/span> \n<\/span>It was just after sunrise. As I threaded the rope through the rings, I could suddenly picture Alexander\u2019s hands doing the same. Long fingers, chewed fingernails, knuckles with dirt in the creases. Hands I hadn\u2019t seen or touched or held in years.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nIn silence, Noah and I descended.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAt the second rappel, I realized I\u2019d started shaking. I threaded the rope, checked and double-checked my rappel device. This time, my mind flashed with an image of Alexander\u2019s helmet, colored orange and striped in permanent marker in honor of his PCT trail name: Tiger. In my mind, I saw his curly hair. His shoulders twisting as he cast a glance out over the landscape, over the pale light that still reflected pink off the snow.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nNoah and I descended.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAt the third and final rappel, I took a deep breath. Noah gripped my arm, maybe reminded me to breathe. I don\u2019t fully remember. I only had eyes for the red and blue webbing that wrapped the stone in front of us, and the metal rings that were to hold our rope.<\/span><\/p>\nI had spent my entire adventure career following in Alexander\u2019s footsteps. This was the end of the road. This was the first time I\u2019d taken one step further than he\u2019d ever been able to go.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nThis time I could see Alexander\u2019s face. A flash of remembered smile, a melody of remembered laugh. Another flash, and I could see him shattered on the rocks. Ropes twisted around him on the talus like scorch marks. Rope-burn on his hands.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI shook my head to clear the image, and took a deep breath to still my shaking shoulders. I held on tight as I threaded my device, pulled up both rope ends, and measured them carefully. My fingers twitched as I tied the first knot, then the second.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI threw them. I watched the ends twist and flicker in slow motion as they sailed through the air, down the gully, and swung below the bulge. I watched as they came to rest just out of sight, and blinked, taken aback. There was no crack to ensnare the ropes. Tucked into a corner, the rappel was sheltered from the wind.<\/span><\/p>\nHow could he have missed this?\u00a0 <\/span><\/i>I thought, staring at the shape of the rock, the invisible rope ends, the ground that was clearly so far below.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThis was a textbook example of a circumstance in which you\u2019re supposed to take extra safety precautions during a rappel. Like hanging a bear bag in the Rockies or filtering water near pastureland. It was obvious. It was a situation Alexander and I had both studied when we were young and learning how to explore in the mountains.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAlexander\u2019s fall wasn\u2019t a freak accident, I suddenly realized. He\u2019d made a mistake. A rookie mistake.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nIn that moment, I could feel everything start to unravel. This man I\u2019d worshiped as a mentor, a hero, a partner, a prodigy had made a thoughtless error. My head was reeling, but I didn\u2019t know how to feel. Should I feel comforted? Or angry? Did this make it easier to accept his death\u2014or more impossible than ever?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAs soon as I landed on the ground below, I started crying. All of a sudden, everything hurt. I wanted to shake Alexander. I wanted to squeeze my dad\u2019s hand and tell him that we were wrong, that the accident was preventable and I knew now how to prevent it. That I was going to be OK. I cried because I\u2019d never get the chance to speak to either of them again.<\/span><\/p>\nAnd I cried because I suddenly felt lost. I had spent my entire adventure career following in Alexander\u2019s footsteps. This was the end of the road. This was the first time I\u2019d taken one step further than he\u2019d ever been able to go.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nAfter Peak 11,840,<\/strong> Noah and I continued on to Mt. Owen and the Grand Teton, completing almost half the Traverse. We were about 400 feet short of the summit of the Grand when the sun started to near the horizon and fatigue started to gnaw at our bones.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nTogether, we looked at the sky, entertained a brief discussion. Then we both nodded, and turned back around the way we\u2019d come. Before descending, we took a bail selfie, both of us grinning from ear to ear. <\/span> \n<\/span> \n<\/span>\u201cHere\u2019s to making good decisions in the alpine,\u201d Noah said.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI nodded, and wondered: If not for the tone of the day, how far would we have kept going? What would we have risked? Maybe Alexander was still teaching me lessons after all.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nMy Grand Traverse attempt was over a year ago now. These days, I don\u2019t spend much time in the mountains. I keep telling myself I\u2019ll get back into it. That I\u2019ll plan another long fastpacking mission, link up some Fourteeners, maybe even go back to technical alpine climbing.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nBut the truth is, I haven\u2019t missed it. My ice climbing competition season last year wore me down. I had more friends and acquaintances die in avalanches or under rockfall. More \u201cfreak accidents.\u201d More mistakes. I was tired.<\/span><\/p>\nSo, I turned my back on the mountains<\/a>. I spent the summer hiking below treeline and learning how to dance. I thought about getting married. I thought about buying a house. One piece of me felt free. The other piece felt like a failure.<\/span> \n<\/span> \n<\/span>Then, the other day, I re-read an old email from Dan that he\u2019d sent me when I was 24, still obsessed with climbing and intoxicated with ideas of glory. At the time, I\u2019d brushed off the email as the chiding of an old man\u2014the same way I\u2019d brushed off my dad\u2019s fear when he tried to warn me at the funeral.<\/span> \n<\/span><\/p>\nEven through the email, I could hear Dan\u2019s voice. Raw and frayed and earnest.<\/span><\/p>\n\u201cI sincerely hope that others take away from this tragedy a more acute sense of their own mortality,\u201d it read. \u201cAnd that even someone who was so compulsively safety-conscious as Alexander could make a fatal mistake. And that being sleep-deprived and calorie-deprived degrade one\u2019s ability to engage in risky activities. And that a mistake during a climb might not only cost them their life, but would also cause unimaginable pain to those family and friends that they love the most. And that the greatest pleasures in life come not only from pushing, but also from being still.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n