Don’t worry about the sharks. They’re large, yes, but they’re sand-tigers, which are relatively docile compared to other species in the water. It’s the barracudas you might consider. From where I’m standing, on the edge of a light tower in the middle of the ocean, I can see dozens of them floating around the structure, waiting for a snack.

“They have a mouthful of K-9-like incisors. Creepy fish,” says Dave Wood, one of the owners of the off the coast of Wilmington, North Carolina. “They typically leave people alone, but don’t wear anything shiny into the water. It gets them going.”

Not that I’m planning on falling in, but when you’re 32 miles out in the middle of the ocean, perched on top of a 60-year-old light tower, watching a bunch of predators swimming below, you wonder.

This is definitely the most adventurous and remote place I’ve ever stayed.

What Is the Frying Pan Tower?

The Frying Pan Tower is a decommissioned Coast Guard light station built on the tip of Frying Pan Shoals, an unusually shallow stretch of water running for 30 miles from the tower west to the Barrier Islands along the coast. Between the 1600s to the mid 1900s, hundreds of ships wrecked on the shoals—known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic—and the lighthouse was built in 1964 by the U.S. government to help keep mariners safe.

The building was decommissioned in the early 1990s when sailors started using GPS to navigate around dangerous obstacles. Frying Pan sat empty until 2010, when Richard Neal, fresh off a corporate job and looking for a project, purchased it in a government auction for $85,000. Since then, Neal has been working tirelessly to restore the structure, passing ownership on to 10 investors and taking over as the caretaker and head of a non-profit, FPTower Inc., tasked with keeping the tower from falling into the ocean.

“Frying Pan can still help keep mariners safe. It’s the only structure out here,” Neal says. Various things can go wrong for ships out at sea, from systems failures to people getting injured. “And it’s a resource for scientific research. We’ve had marine biologists out here, NASA, NOAA, people from MIT. Frying Pan can be a point to collect wave data, hurricane data, shark data…It still has value.”

The şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs Are Endless at the Frying Pan

It’s also one hell of a basecamp for adventure. Imagine all the benefits of ocean-front property, but put that property in the middle of the sea without any neighbors (or, granted, amenities like grocery stores). Frying Pan sits in only 55 feet of water. On a clear day, you can see the coral on the sandy floor from the catwalk that wraps around the living quarters.

These are ideal conditions for scuba, snorkeling, and free diving. Anglers can drop a line off the edge of the tower and pull up grouper and cobia for dinner. Several times during my two-day visit, I stood mesmerized on the edge of the catwalk watching sharks rise to inspect the bait we cast into the water.

If you get bored with your immediate surroundings, you can explore the Greg Mickey, a fishing vessel about 1,000 yards north that was sunk in 2007 to become an artificial reef in honor of a fallen diver. Or take a 20-minute boat ride to the Gulf Stream for deep-sea fishing for wahoo and tuna.

“I would pass by this tower when I was a kid on small boats, and it was always a comfort to see, because you’re so far away from land,” says Jason Guyot, an owner of Frying Pan who grew up fishing the area with his dad. “It’s nice to know there’s something out here if things go bad.”

And the view? Climb to the very top of the structure, 135 feet above the surface of the water where the actual Coast Guard light stands, and you see ocean. Flat and blue and all around you without a spec of land in sight. As far as vacation real estate goes, it’s one of a kind.

Staying on the Frying Pan

Originally intended to house a crew of 17 Coast Guard personnel, Frying Pan looks like an oil platform. The 5,000-square-foot living space boasts eight bedrooms, a commercial-grade kitchen, two bathrooms, and even an entertainment room with a pool table. A stainless-steel catwalk hangs outside the main floor of the tower, while a helicopter pad occupies the top deck. The actual lighthouse stretches out from that pad, standing 135 feet above the water.

While most lighthouses are located on land, the Coast Guard built seven of these offshore towers, modeled after oil platforms, in the 1960s for added safety. Three of those original towers have been dismantled because of their deteriorating structures; another was destroyed in a storm. The three remaining towers were all scheduled for dismantling until private owners stepped in to purchase them.

According to Neal, Frying Pan is in the best shape of the existing structures, but it still needs constant maintenance. There’s a small movement of private citizens working to preserve lighthouses in this country, and Neal is in the thick of it.

When Neal took over Frying Pan nearly 15 years ago, it had been abandoned for decades. The windows were broken, bullets were embedded in the walls from vandals, it had no power, there were holes in the floors, and rust was eating away at much of the exterior structure.

Restoring the Frying Pan

Neal spends every other week on the tower, working through various projects, while others pop out as often as they can. The renovation project has attracted an interesting mix of investors, all of whom are DIY advocates. They come out together to weld, re-wire, re-build, and generally figure out how to maintain the building. They each bring something different to the situation. One is a helicopter pilot, another a retired contractor. Others are divers and anglers and carpenters, providing fish for the kitchen and practical skills for the restoration.

Technically, Frying Pan is in international waters, so the owners could turn the tower into anything they want–a casino, a bordello, even its own sovereign nation. But they just want to make sure Frying Pan continues to be a resource to the maritime and scientific communities.

The biggest single room is the workshop, loaded with metal cutting-band saws, welding torches, cranes, chains, power cords, two wave runners on racks, massive diesel generators, canisters of oil and soy bean oil. Neal and his cohorts have replaced the windows, installed air conditioning, reconfigured the bedrooms to handle paying guests, and renovated the bathrooms. Neal estimates he’s put $300,000 of his own money into the tower, and it likely needs another $1 to $2 million more to be fully restored.

The largest hurdle in that restoration work is also Frying Pan’s greatest appeal: its location. It’s remote. For my trip, I take a 2.5-hour ride on a 27-foot fishing boat in rough seas and spend the majority of the time trying not to vomit. Supplies need to be either shipped in by boat or flown in by helicopter, neither of which is cheap. This means that Neal and his cohorts end up improvising a lot on site.

“I can’t just run to Home Depot. If I need something, I’m probably going to make it,” Neal says. “If I can’t make it myself, I try to find smart people who can.”

When I reach the tower, Neal and the owners are fabricating braces to hang on the side of the tower to support a row of solar panels, welding together custom-fit stainless-steel tubes. Neal stands on top of a six-foot-tall ladder, set on the edge of the catwalk, roughly 100 feet above the ocean, with a welding torch in his hand to burn a hole into the top of the exterior wall to fit a bracket that will eventually hold the brace for the solar panels.

“I love this stuff,” Neal says, hanging precariously above the ocean with a lit torch in his hand.

While I’m on site, he works from sunup to sundown, tackling one task after another, the half-dozen other owners on the tower at the time working right alongside him. Most of the owners started out as working volunteers, spending a few days on Frying Pan scraping rust or putting down carpet, and fell in love with the property and the challenge of figuring out the solution to the next problem.

Later in the day, Neal and a volunteer will scuba dive below the tower to replace the that stream a live feed of the bottom of the ocean to . After the solar panels are in place, the team will replace some of the exterior doors that are rotting through. Eventually, they’ll have to address some of the structural supports beneath the living quarters that are reaching the end of their shelf life. It all costs money, which is where guests play a part.

How to Visit the Frying Pan

Frying Pan Tower hosts visitors every other week throughout the year, with the proceeds going straight back into restoration. Guests can sign up for a ($900), where they’ll spend most of their time working alongside Neal, welding or cleaning or rewiring. Or they can sign up for an ($1,950) and spend their time diving or fishing or just soaking up the view. When I was there, a volunteer was cooking and the owners brought food, but on most trips you would bring food and cook it yourself.

Most people who find themselves on Frying Pan are infatuated with the open sea. They’re divers and snorkelers, anglers casting off the sides of the tower or taking quick trips to the Gulf Stream. The tower has also seen cliff jumpers and free divers, scientists and Boy Scout troops.

The potential for adventure is only limited by your imagination. Jason Guyot dreams about bringing a kitesurfing rig to the tower and exploring the surrounding seascape. I want to come back with a paddleboard and snorkeling gear. I’d also love to bring my wife and kids; they’d have a blast snorkeling at the base of the tower and watching the sharks from above.

The Stargazing Is Incredible

The night sky is the darkest I’ve ever seen. Not a single light competes for the attention of the stars in any direction on the horizon. Our group of owners and volunteers gravitates to the helicopter pad after the sun sets, and settles in to watch the sky above for shooting stars. The Milky Way is a broad white paint stroke across the darkness.

I don’t go in the water during my brief stay at Frying Pan, but I do help with restorations when I can, hit biodegradable golf balls filled with fish food into the sea below, cast for fish, and generally try to grasp the nuances of life in the middle of the ocean. This is the most isolated I’ve ever been in my entire life. The nearest Starbucks is more than 40 miles due west. If something goes wrong, it would be hours before help arrives.

That sort of isolation makes a lot of people anxious. But for others, it’s relaxing. All of the distractions of life on the mainland are gone. Your priorities shrink. There is only the task at hand, whether it’s fishing or hanging a solar panel, food, and rest.

For dinner, we fire up a grill on the helicopter pad. Jason Guyot, who owns car dealerships and runs a real-estate business on land, is constantly in motion, cooking steaks brought in from a farm in eastern Carolina. He turns the meat slowly, looks around and says, “I wonder what the rest of the world is doing right now?”

Graham Averill is şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine’s national parks columnist. His time on Frying Pan was brief, but he’ll always remember the brightness of the Milky Way above and the sight of sharks feeding below.

For more by this author, see:

9 Beautiful Mountain Towns in the Southeast

The 10 Best Bike Towns in America, Ranked

8 Surf Towns Where You Can Learn the Sport and the Culture

The post I Stayed at This Coast Guard Station in the Middle of the Ocean. So Can You. appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

Last year was a banner one for our national parks, with 325.5 million recreation visits in the books for 2023. Last week the National Park Service released its , detailing the total number of visitors to the 400 units—which include national seashores and historic sites—the park service manages. Overall, recreation visits increased by 13 million, an uptick of 4 percent compared to 2022. The number of hours spent hanging out in our parks was also up 4 percent, from 1.36 to 1.4 billion hours. That’s a lot of hiking, or sitting in moose traffic jams, depending on the park.

Parks have never been more popular than they were in 2016, when the national park service was celebrating its centennial and visitation numbers hit a record 330,971,689. That total stayed constant for the next few years, with more than 327 million recreation visits in 2019. Then the pandemic hit, parks closed, travel halted, and visitation dropped by 90 million visits in 2020. The popularity of our scenic national parks has been climbing steadily since, last year almost reaching pre-pandemic levels.

The stats break down , so you can see which of our treasured landscapes are the most and least popular. The Blue Ridge Parkway continues to be the most sought-after park unit in the country (with 16,757,635 visits), and Great Smoky Mountains National ParkĚýrules by far among national parks (13,297,647 visits, with the next-highest contenders all in the four million range). Gulf Islands National Seashore jumped three spots to make it into the top five most popular park units in 2023. And Glen Canyon National Recreation Area climbed into the coveted top-ten list with a near doubled 5,206,934 recorded visits, a massive jump from 34^th in 2022, when it saw 2,842,776.

protects 1.25 million acres of land in Utah and Arizona, including Lake Powell. A multi-year drought had kept many visitors at bay, but the record-breaking snowfall of the winter of 2022 to 2023 brought water levels back up, allowing several boat ramps and access points to reopen. I’ve explored Lake Powell by packraft at low water level, when it was muddy around the edges, but still pretty damn spectacular. Visiting the lake when the water is up would be amazing.

Then again, I like this next trove of data—because it tells you where to go to avoid crowds. My home is close to both the Blue Ridge Parkway and Great Smoky Mountains National Park, so I know a little too much about the popular places.

While the top 10 or so most-visited parks see millions of people a year, the parks at the bottom of the list see only a few thousand. Alaska’s Gates of the Arctic National Park has reclaimed the longtime title of “Least Visited National Park” in the U.S. after the National Park of American Samoa displaced it in 2022. Congratulations?

These overlooked parks are no less spectacular: offering tropical islands, massive sand dunes, 18,000-foot peaks, and more glaciers than any other spot in the U.S. It might take extra time and work to reach some of them, but the rewards are dramatic landscapes and big adventures…all to yourself.

Here are the 11 least visited national parks in 2023.

1. Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 11,045

Location: Sitting in Alaska, north of the Arctic Circle, Gates of the Arctic covers 8.4 million acres of the rugged and cold Brooks Range. There are no roads or maintained trails within the park, although there is one small village, Anaktuvuk Pass (pop: 451), a Nunamiut Inupiat settlement typically reached by small plane.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Backpack among the Arrigetch Peaks, a cluster of mountains known for steep, vertical spires deep within the Brooks Range. It’s a that requires a series of bush plane flights.

2. National Park of American Samoa

Recreational Visits: 12,135

Location: In the South Pacific, 2,600 miles southwest of Hawaii, National Park of American Samoa covers portions of three volcanic islands full of tropical forests, coral sand beaches, and traditional Samoan villages. The seascape is just as impressive; the ocean surrounding the islands are home to more than 950 species of fish and 250 species of coral.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: The national park facilitates a where visitors can stay with locals to learn Samoan customs and the South Pacific lifestyle.

3. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 16,728

Location: Roughly 100 miles southwest of Anchorage, Lake Clark is 4,000,000 acres of glaciers, peaks, and active volcanoes. No roads lead to the park, which can only be reached by small plane. The park is home to three National Wild and Scenic Rivers (the Mulchatna, Tlikakila, Chilikadrotna), attracting paddlers and anglers alike.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Backpackers should hit the 50-mile Telaquana Route, where you can follow in the footsteps of local Dena’ina Athabascans and fur traders who blazed the path between the shores of Lake Clark and Telaquana Lake.

4. Kobuk Valley National Park, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 17,616

Location: Sitting 25 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Kobuk Valley National Park protects the river of the same name that has served as a thoroughfare for wildlife, particularly caribou, and the people who have been hunting the river valley for 9,000 years. Kobuk Valley is home to the 25-square-mile Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, which rise abruptly from the surrounding trees.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Take a bush plane into Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, camp, hike, and watch for caribou.

5. Isle Royale National Park, Michigan

Recreational Visits: 28,965

Location: A cluster of islands in the middle of Lake Superior near the Canadian border, Isle Royale is a car-less wilderness where moose and wolves roam. The park is only accessible by boat or float plane, but once you’re there hikers have 165 miles of trails to explore. A small population of gray wolves have lived in Isle Royale since 1948, when the first wolves crossed an ice bridge that formed, connecting the island to mainland Canada. The population had nearly died out when, in 2018, park wildlife experts relocated wolves to the island.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Backpack the 40-mile , which crosses over the park’s main island, connecting backcountry lakes and campsites. Or, hike an 8.5-mile stretch of the from Windigo Dock to Feldtman Lake, which includes a quick, .8-mile side trip to Rainbow Cove, where a rocky shoreline on Lake Superior offers long range views of Rock of Ages Lighthouse on a clear day.ĚýĚý

6. Katmai National Park and Preservation, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 33,763

Location: Man, Alaska has a lot of lonely national parks. But Katmai is special because it’s so diverse. Situated on a peninsula in southern Alaska, roughly 260 miles southwest of Anchorage, it has the rugged mountains and glaciers you’d expect, but also lush valleys, tumultuous coastline, and 40 square miles of desert landscape, thanks to the eruption of Novarupta Volcano, which scorched the earth more than 100 years ago. Katmai is probably best-known for its , where you can sit in your office and peep at brown bears eating salmon at Brooks Falls on the Brooks River.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Katmai isn’t connected to any town by road, so most people show up via boat or float plane from King Salmon or Anchorage. That alone is an adventure. Visitors usually start by visiting Brooks Camp, home to the park’s summer headquarters, to check in and get the required bear-safety orientation, then head to the various platforms that overlook the Brooks River. If you’re looking to dig deeper, consider paddling the 80-mile , which connects a chain of lakes through Katmai’s backcountry. Starting at Brooks Camp, kayakers will paddle a circle around 3,183-foot Mount La Gorce, navigating two class I-II rivers and huffing a 1.5-mile long portage between open-water stretches of three different lakes.

7. North Cascades National Park, Washington

Recreational Visits: 40,351

Location: Only three hours from the city of Seattle, North Cascades is a rugged expanse of mountains with more than 300 glaciers, the largest collection of any park outside of Alaska. In other words, North Cascades is wintry and snow-covered most of the year, so much so that most visitors only hit the park between June and September.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Hike , a steep, 9.4-mile ascent from the edge of Ross Lake that delivers sweeping views from a lookout tower of the Ross Lake National Recreation Area.

8. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 78,305

Location: Sitting more than 200 miles east of Anchorage, Wrangell-St. Elias encompasses 13.2 million acres where four major mountain ranges converge, encompassing both the largest collection of glaciers and the highest concentration of 16,000-foot peaks in the U.S., including seven of the 20 highest peaks in America. The park is a land of extremes—14,163-foot Mount Wrangell is an active volcano with vents of steam on the summit, and Bagley Icefield, near the coast, is North America’s largest subpolar icefield.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Climb Mount Bear, a 14,831-foot peak deep in the St. Elias Range that doesn’t require any technical climbing, but is a beautiful adventure.

9. Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida

Recreational Visits: 84,285

Location: Head to Key West and then keep going, 70 miles west into the Gilf of Mexico to Dry Tortugas, a collection of seven islands only accessible by boat or seaplane. The atolls are a mix of palm trees and soft sand beaches with world-class snorkeling and diving just offshore. Visitors can camp on the largest island, Garden Key, in the shadows of the massive Fort Jefferson, a Civil War-era prison.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Dive the Windjammer Wreck, the remains of a ship that sank in 1907 off Loggerhead Key after running aground on the surrounding reef. The wreck is in shallow water (20 feet at the deepest point), so snorkelers and divers can explore it together. Or, bring a kayak and paddle around Garden, Bush, and Long Key, a trio of islands so close together, they’re sometimes joined by sandbars. You’re looking for nurse sharks and sea turtles in the clear water below and, above, any of the 300 species of birds that migrate through the park every year.

10. Great Basin National Park, Nevada

Recreational Visits: 143,265

Location: The 77,180-acre Great Basin National Park sits in the high desert of Eastern Nevada, 300 miles north of Las Vegas. The terrain ranges from the 13,064-foot Wheeler Peak to an expansive cave system, called Lehman Caves. You’ll also find alpine lakes, old-growth bristlecone pine forests, and Nevada’s only remaining glacier, Wheeler Peak Glacier.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Glimpse Nevada’s last piece of permanent ice by hiking the 4.8-mile to the bottom of the two-acre glacier. You’ll cruise through groves of ancient bristlecone, some estimated to be 4,000 years old.

11. Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota

Recreational Visits: 220,825

Location: In Northeastern Minnesota, up against the Canadian Border, Voyageurs National Park is mostly made up of water. This 218,055-acre park is loaded with lakes—four big ones that form a border for the park and 26 smaller interior lakes, most interconnected by 60 miles of canoe and kayak trails. There are endless shorelines and islands to explore, and dense habitat for healthy moose and wolf populations.

One Big şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Head to the interior lakes, where marked canoeĚýtrails lead to primitive backcountry campsites you can only reach by boat. And you have to use the national park service’s boats; once you have a , you get a code to unlock one of the canoes that the NPS has staged at certain points for use to prevent the spread of invasive species. The Chain of Lakes are four small bodies of water on the interior of the Kabetogama Peninsula that you can piece together via short portages and creeks to create a 13-mile hiking and paddling adventure. Each of the four lakes has its own campsite, one per lake, and most people will pick a single campsite as a basecamp and explore from there, so the mileage of your adventure will vary.

Graham Averill is şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine’s national parks columnist. After researching these remote parks, he’s thinking it might be time to get his pilot’s license and invest in a float plane.

For more by this author, see:

7 Most Adventurous Ways to See the Total EclipseĚýof 2024

The 6 Most Adventurous Train Trips in North America

The Creepiest Unsolved Mysteries in U.S. National Parks

The post And the 11 Least Visited National Parks Are… appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

The hike was hot and brutal. My wife and I started on the edge of Sabana de la Mar, a village in the Dominican Republic, after breakfast and drove our rental car until the road ended. Then we navigated patchwork farms until dipping into the jungle and heading toward the coast. Liz and I were young and unprepared, so we ran out of food and water almost immediately, eating mangoes from trees and trying to crack coconuts in our thirst.

Our goal was an isolated beach with a two-stool, open-air bar that you could only reach by boat or hike. We were tired of crowded resorts and wanted something serene. We didn’t find a boat so we hiked. And hiked. And hiked. The bar was closed when we got there, but we had the beach to ourselves: a quarter-moon sliver of sand flanked by tall palms, the Samana Bay stretched out before us.

Sometimes I want to stand on a beach or outcropping or mountaintop and know that the nearest McDonald’s is days away. But just because a destination is far-flung doesn’t mean you actually want to go there.

For example, the farthest-away spot in the United States is Saint Matthew Island, which is technically part of Alaska, but located in the Bering Sea more than 180 miles from the nearest human settlement, halfway to Siberia. You have to take a 24-hour ship ride to reach the island, which is battered by storms and shrouded in fog. Oh, and it’s cold. I’m sure Saint Matthew has its charms, but I can think of more pleasant remote places to vacation.

So, I started looking into destinations across the globe that occupy that sweet spot of “remote” and “attractive.” There’s a variety of landscapes on this list, from dunes to hot springs, so it’s not just tropical atolls,Ěýalthough they’re in here, too.

Here are 11 far-flung places worth the endeavor to see them. These spots are just the beginning. It’s a great big world out there. While this is bucket-list stuff, damn, it’s fun to dream.

1. Remote Tropical Island

Lord Howe Island, Australia

Traveling to a remote island doesn’t always mean you have to enter survival mode. is a volcanic remnant in the Tasman Sea, roughly 320 miles east of New South Wales, Australia. It’s remote, sure, but it also has some pretty plush digs, and a small population (roughly 350 people) living on the northern tip of the island opens apartments and small lodges to travelers.

The south end of the island is comprised of primeval forest, isolated beaches, volcanic crags, and towering peaks. The island is only seven miles long and 1.25 miles wide, but roughly 70 percent of that mass is protected as a Permanent Park Preserve. Moreover, locals limit the number of tourists, not allowing more than 400 on the island on any given day.

While you’re on-island, spend your time snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters of Ned’s Beach, where sand leads to a coral reef teeming with mullet and kingfish. Arrange with your lodge host for a guide to take you on the three-mile trek to the top of Mount Gower. It’s an all-day adventure that has you scrambling up volcanic rock and hiking through the lush interior forest. The summit rises 2,870 feet above sea level, punctuating the south end of the island.

Or, book a to Ball’s Pyramid, the largest sea stack in the world, rising 1,807 feet from the ocean roughly 14 miles south of Lord Howe. There, you’ll see turtles, wahoo, and the rare Ballina Angelfish. Trips and rates are determined once you’re on island, but you can book single-dive excursions to other sites for $160 per person.

How to Get There: A limited number of commercial flights reach Lord Howe from Sydney. It’s a two-hour flight. Accommodations are scarce on the island (there are only 400 beds in total), so book your lodging at the same time as your flight. has relatively affordable rates (from $300 a night). If you’re looking to splurge, stay at the , which has nine suites with views of both the Pacific Ocean and Mount Gower (starting at $1,900).

2. Remote Hike

Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, Iceland

The is one of the most isolated areas in Iceland, enveloping a 220-square-mile chunk of the Westfjords, a peninsula on the northern tip of the country where towering cliffs meet deep fjords. Uninhabited since the 1950s, the reserve is blossoming from an environmental perspective; since the last residents left, and with a hunting ban now in place, local species like the Arctic Fox thrive, while seals flock to the rocks against the water.

The beaches are a mix of sand and smooth stones, while ferns and wildflowers dominate the slopes up to the cliffs, with icefields above and waterfalls that drop straight into the sea. Hornbjarg, a massive buttress that rises 534 meters from the Arctic Ocean, looking like a cresting wave, is the biggest draw for hikers. The starts on the gray-sand beach on Hornvik Bay where most people are dropped off (see below) and climbs 3,500 feet up the side of the cliffs.

How to Get There: It’s a four-hour drive from Reykjavik to Isafjordur, the capital of the Westfjords, from which you charter a boat across the Bay of Hornvik, or arrange for a guide service to take you across. Arriving at the reserve, you’re on foot, as there are no roads or infrastructure. offers daily boat rides across the bay, guided hiking trips, and multi-day camping excursions into Hornstrandir (from $375 per person).

3. Remote Ruins

Rio Bec, Mexico

The , in the state of Campeche at the base of the Yucatan, Mexico, is known for its Maya archaeological sites. Here, the great ancient city of Calakmul has more than 6,000 documented structures, some towering over the surrounding jungle. You can take organized tours of these and other ruins along with thousands of other tourists every year.

Rio Bec, however, is a lesser-known Maya city tucked more deeply into the jungle of the same reserve that gets a fraction of the visitors. The ruins are so remote, and the jungle so dense, that an entire section of the structures was lost for more than 60 years after the original site discovery in 1912. Put in the extra effort (see below) to come here and you’ll likely have the site to yourself as you climb the steps of stone pyramids stretching 50 feet high, built around 700 A.D.

Some of the buildings have crumbled, while others still boast the skyward-reaching twin towers indicative of the Rio Bec architectural style, unusual in that it serves no practical purpose other than to make a building look more grand. Faux steps going nowhere are even carved into the tower walls. The jungle surrounding the stone structures is full of howler monkeys, jaguars, and wild pigs, and reaching the site is half the adventure.

How to Get There: Fly into the city of Campeche (there’s an international airport) and drive 300 kilometers to Xpujil, the largest town near the Biosphere Reserve. That’s the easy part. No roads lead to Rio Bec, and most tour operators eschew expeditions to the site, as it requires an approach of 15 kilometers (about ten miles) on narrow, difficult trails. Your best option is meeting up with the local guide , who takes small groups into the jungle on ATVs and motorcycles ($450 for two people, in cash).

4. Remote Hot Springs

Uunartoq Hot Springs, Greenland

The Inuit word “Uunartoq” translates to “the hot place,” appropriate for this natural spring on an uninhabited island in the middle of a fjord in southern Greenland. While the island has never been permanently settled, legend says that Vikings visited this steaming pool more than 1,000 years ago.

Aside from the addition of a small wooden structure built as a changing room, the springs are the same primitive, rock-dammed pool they have been for centuries. Unlike most hot springs in Greenland (most of which are actually too hot to soak in), the water of Uunartoq is heated not by volcanic activity but by friction, as layers of the earth’s crust rub against each other, warming the water and sending it up to the surface.

The springs are usually between 98 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit, or about the temperature of a welcoming hot tub. Soak in the pool and savor the views of the iceberg-choked bay and the rocky peaks that define southern Greenland. There is no lodging on the island, but you’re welcome to camp. Keep an eye out for the resplendent northern lights.

How to Get There: Fly into the international airport at Narsarsuaq, then catch either a flight or boat to the town of Qaqortoq, the gateway to Uunartoq. A number of operators in town offer boats and tours to the springs. It’s a 1.5-hour ride across the Qaqortoq Fjord, which is full of icebergs and where you may see the occasional humpback whale. offers a half-day trip from June to September ($375 per person). The company also guides trips to the nearby Greenland Ice Cap and multi-day hikes through South Greenland that have you spending nights on local sheep farms (starting at $140 per person).

5. Remote Lookout Tower

Three Fingers Lookout, Washington

Lookout towers are by definition remote, but Three Fingers takes the concept up a notch, sitting on the summit of in the heart of Boulder River Wilderness. It requires technical climbing to approach, so you need the equipment and know-how. Built in 1933 using dynamite to blast off a section of the rocky peak, the structure is so significant that it’s on the National Register of Historic Places.

The journey to the tower is awesome but to be taken seriously. Hike for six miles through a dense forest and amid subalpine meadows to Tin Pan Gap, where the technical climbing begins. You’ll need ice axes, crampons, rope, harnesses, and route-finding capabilities to negotiate snowfields and a glacier, scramble up rocky pitches, and finally climb a series of vertical ladders to the lookout on the south peak of Three Fingers Mountain.

The lookout tower sits at 6,854 feet and sleeps three or four people—first come, first served. The views extend deep into Boulder River wilderness, and you’ll be able to spot the 6,865-foot Whitehorse Mountain to the north and 5,437-foot Liberty Mountain to the south. Goat Flat, five miles from the trailhead, is a ridge-top meadow that makes an excellent campsite if you can’t score a night in the lookout.

How to Get There: Granite Falls, Washington, is the closest town. The shortest route to the tower is from the trailhead for Trail 641, the , at the end of Tupso Pass Road (FS41). It’s a 15-mile out-and-back trek into Boulder River Wilderness, with almost 4,200 feet of elevation gain. If you want a longer trip, check the Washington Trail Association website for the status of Tupso Pass Road, which was washed out at the time of publication and would add eight miles of gravel road walking. You can also take this .

6. Remote Whitewater

Middle Fork of the Salmon River, Idaho

You want the middle of nowhere? The , in Idaho, is that and then some. The wilderness comprises 2.3 million acres, making it one of the largest roadless areas in the lower 48 (only Death Valley Wilderness is bigger). With two major whitewater rivers—the Salmon and the Middle Fork of the Salmon—flowing through the Frank Church, the best way to explore this vastness is by raft.

Let’s focus on the Middle Fork, which slices through the heart of the roadless area for 104 miles, from its source at the confluence of Bear Valley and Marsh Creeks to its convergence with the Salmon. Many consider this to be the best river trip in the country, thanks to the scenery (the waterway rolls through a landscape full of 10,000-foot peaks, vertical cliffs, and thick Douglas fir) and the adrenaline rush (100 rapids, from class III to class IV, in 100 miles).

Thousands of people paddle the Middle Fork every summer. Fortunately, the river is managed for its wilderness quality, with only seven group launches allowed per day during the summer and a 30-person max for commercial trips. During the week-long trip, you’ll camp on the beaches, see Native American artifacts like petroglyphs and pottery left by the Nez Perce and Shoshone-Bannock tribes, and soak in hot springs.

The most out-there you’ll feel is 80 miles into the trip, paddling into Impassable Canyon, a narrow, steep-walled gorge packed with big rapids. Shortly after entering the canyon, eddy out and take a quick side hike to Veil Falls, a waterfall that drops into a cave-like amphitheater.

How to Get There: Most boaters and commercial trips put in at Indian Creek and take out at Cache Bar, after the rivers converge. offers six-day trips on the whole river ($3,599 per person) with catered meals. If you want to lead your own group, apply for a , to be assigned via a random lottery ($6 reservation fee and $4 per person per day recreation fee). Applications for lottery permits to raft between May 28 and September 3 are accepted from December 1 to January 31, with results announced on February 14.

7. Remote Hike

100-Mile Wilderness, Maine

The 2,000-mile Appalachian Trail is legendary, but it’s not exactly remote, considering that it crosses roads and dips into towns along the Appalachian chain up the East Coast. The section, in Maine, is an entirely different story, however, offering a stretch of trail interrupted only by the occasional forest road and fishing camp/hiker lodge.

Hike this piece of the A.T. from highway 15 to Abol Bridge in Baxter State Park if you want a bit of solitude, but be prepared to work for it. The route typically takes 10 days and features more than 20,000 feet of elevation gain up and over the Barren-Chairback and Whitecap Mountain Ranges. You’ll ford rivers and traverse ankle-turning scree. You can filter water along the way, but will need to carry your food, so count on a heavy pack, too.

Cranberry bogs and isolated ponds punctuate the landscape of dense pine and hardwood forest, and you can see Lake Onawa from the rocky peak of Barren Mountain. As for fauna, you may well spot moose as you hike. You can add another 14 miles to the hike to tack on Katahdin (5,268 feet), Maine’s highest peak and the official end of the A.T.

How to Get There: It’s easy to reach the southern end of the 100-Mile Wilderness; it’s located off highway 15 in Monson. But traversing the truly remote stretches of the A.T. through this stretch of wilderness is up to your legs and lungs. July is the best month, as the black flies have mostly disappeared and the north-bound thru-hikers haven’t showed up yet. in Monson offers shuttles and can arrange for food drops to lighten your load. The 100-Mile Wilderness isn’t completely devoid of civilization; the Appalachian Mountain Club operates a few lodges in the area, but you won’t see them from the trail.

8. Remote Surf Break

Santa Rosa Island, Channel Islands National Park, California

Channel Islands National Park protects five islands off the coast of Southern California, and all offer the kind of remote setting many of us crave after spending time in a generally populous region. While coming here is an effort, the 53,000-acre Santa Rosa Island promises secluded backcountry beach campsites on soft patches of sand tucked into coves and surrounded by cliffs and sea caves, with wilderness-style surfing where you’ll never have to wait in a lineup for a wave.

The only access is via boat. If you take the ferry operated by Island Packers (see below), you’ll be dropped off at a pier in Becher’s Bay. Just 1.5 miles from the pier is the 15-site Water Canyon Campground, with drinking water and shelter from the sun. There are even flush toilets. You could feasibly base out of here and day-hike to various beaches on the southern coast of Santa Rosa, where the surfing is the most consistent in summer. Water Canyon also has its own beach that extends from the pier to East Point for several miles during low tide.

But the best surfing is further south, as the coast picks up south-southwestern swells during the summer. There are breaks along the beaches starting at East Point and moving south down the coast. After a drop-off at the pier (see below), follow Coastal Road south from the pier for several miles through grassland and Torrey Pines until it wraps around East Point. This means carrying your surfboard and camping gear. You’ll see small beaches along the rugged coast that are open for camping between August 15 and December 31. Look for the high-tide line to determine which beach is safe for camping (and then pitch your tent way above that mark). Larger beaches are just another mile down the coast.

Santa Rosa offers loads of other adventures as well. The water is surprisingly clear compared to what you find off the mainland, so snorkeling is primo, with reefs and kelp forests hiding abalone and lobsters. And there’s no light pollution, so the night sky is popping.

How to Get There: If you have a friend with a boat, call in a favor, as you could cruise the 40 miles from SoCal to Santa Rosa and surf one of these remote breaks without needing to camp. Otherwise, catch a ferry with (from $45 per person, one way) and get dropped off at Becher’s Bay and start hiking. Make sure you have a in advance (from $15 per night), because you’ll need that to reserve a spot on the ferry.

9. Remote Safari

Mount Nkungwe, Tanzania

Africa is brimming with remote places, but , in the western edge of Tanzania, has a special mix of isolation, exceptional wildlife, and beauty. There are no roads within the 632-square-mile park, so all travel is on foot, and Mahale occupies a peninsula jutting into the massive Lake Tanganyika, one of the largest lakes in the world, so the only way to reach it is by plane or a day-long boat ride.

The park was established in 1985 to protect the world’s largest known population of chimpanzees, which today are thriving at 1,000-strong. It’s also one of the few places in the world where chimps and leopards share the same terrain. The park’s landscape quickly shifts from white sandy beaches on the shore of Tanganyika to dense forest and steep mountain slopes cloaked in mist.

Reaching the park alone is a feat, but if you really want to tick off a far-removed spot, climb Mount Nkungwe (8,077 feet), the tallest mountain inside the park’s borders. It’s a grueling 10-day hike, requiring that you go up and over two sub-peaks and gaining more than 6,000 feet in elevation to reach the summit. Most hikers break the trip up into three days, camping along the way. The views from the top are astounding—you can see all of the Mahale Mountains and Lake Tanganyika below—but the summit isn’t the real highlight of this journey. In addition to chimpanzees, you’ll have the chance to see elephants, giraffes, and buffalo, not to mention the red colobus monkeys that live in the higher elevations of the park.

How to Get There: The fastest way to reach Mahale Mountains National Park is by plane, but most people arrive by boat. It’s easy to charter a boat from the town of Kigoma, and speedboats make the journey in four hours. , a six-tent luxury property on the white sands of Tanganyika, is the most popular place to stay, especially since a family of chimps lives in the jungle nearby (from $2,250 a night during high season between June and September, all inclusive). Published fees to enter the park are $40 per person, but reports from some previous visitors indicate the price fluctuates. All hikes require accompaniment by a ranger. Reach out to the directly for timing, fees, and other information.

10. Remote Dunes

Athabasca Sand Dunes Provincial Park, Saskatchewan, Canada

The Athabasca Sand Dunes Provincial Park covers 62 miles of sand dunes in far north Saskatchewan. These are the most northerly sand dunes on the planet—a slice of the Sahara in the midst of Canada’s boreal forest. But unlike the Sahara, Athabasca, which is flanked by a large lake and dissected by three rivers, has plenty of fresh water.

You can only reach the dunes by float plane or boat, and there are no services within the park. No roads, no cell service, no rangers or structures, so be prepared to take care of yourself in a wilderness setting. Head to the William River Dune field, where the longest, largest dunes are. Land on the shore of Thomson Bay and hike west across the smaller Thomson Bay Dune Field for four miles to the Williams River. If the water’s low enough, you can wade over to explore the largest dunes in the park. You can within the park from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

How to Get There: Stony Rapids, on the eastern edge of Lake Athabasca, is the closest gateway town, though 90 miles east of the dunes. It has a float-plane base, making chartering a plane easy (but not cheap). Fly to Thomson Bay and start hiking west. offers a guided six-day backpacking adventure that includes the flight into the park from Fort McMurray ($3,900 per person).

11. Remote Mountain Peak

Mount Khuiten, Mongolia

A trip up Mount Khuiten (14,350 feet), the tallest peak in Mongolia, presents experiences in both solitude and culture. Khuiten sits in the heart of Altai Tavan Bogd National Park, which preserves 6,362 square miles of lakes, glaciers, and snow-capped mountains in western Mongolia. Altai is one of those places where you want to have a good map and a local guide, because if you get lost here, you could end up in either China or Russia (the park shares a border with both countries). This is a dream trip but a demanding one, so be experienced and prepared, and arrive fit and with top-flight warm gear. See below for intel on finding a guide.

The park encompasses groupings of petroglyphs and burial sites that illustrate the development of Mongolian nomadic culture over a 12,000-year time period, earning the area status. You have the chance to see some of these petroglyphs on the multi-day journey to the summit of Khuiten. You’ll also see modern-day nomadic culture, as the road into the park passes communities in traditional yurts.

As for the approach, the 10-mile trek from the edge of the park to basecamp ends at the 8.5-mile-wide Potanin Glacier, with camels to carry your gear. Most people climb the smaller sister mountain, Malchin Peak, to acclimatize to the altitude before navigating the crevasses of Potanin Glacier to High Camp on the edge of Khuiten. The final push to the top of Mount Khuiten is 3,000 feet up steep, snow-covered slopes requiring crampons, ice axes, and ropework. The view from the snow-capped summit encompasses all of the Altai Mountains as you gaze down on three countries: Mongolia, China, and Russia.

How to Get There: Fly into UlaanBaatar, Mongolia, and take a domestic puddle jumper to the village of Olgii, on the edge of the park. From there, it’s a six-hour drive over rough roads to the ranger station just inside the park. Next you’re on foot for days, depending on how much you want to acclimate, before your summit bid. The trek requires mountaineering skills and local knowledge, so hire a guide. is a trekking company owned by locals that offers a variety of expeditions on and around Khuiten (from $2,600 per person).

How to Be a Conscientious Visitor

Keep in mind some basic rules when you’re traveling to these far-flung locales. Follow Leave No Trace principles, taking everything you brought to the destination back home when you leave. Respect local cultures and customs, and learn about whose land you’re on. Whenever possible, stay in a lodge where the money goes directly to local entrepreneurs, and use local guides and services. Buy something if you can afford it. Always protect the wildlife and natural environment, which means keeping your distance and minimizing your impact.

Graham Averill is şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine’s national parks columnist. If he has to choose between a remote beach and a remote mountaintop, it’s going to be sand and surf every time.

For more by Graham Averill, see:

7 Most Adventurous Ways to See the Total EclipseĚýof 2024

The 6 Most Adventurous Train Trips in North America

The Best Budget Airlines—and şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Locales They Go To

The post 11 Remote Destinations That Are Definitely Worth the Effort to Visit appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

The Ford F-150 Lightning, the electric version of Ford’s super-popular pickup truck that came out last year, is my fantasy. I have a standard gas F-150 but with the Lightning, I could save hundreds of dollars’ worth of gas every month. The only thing holding me back from purchasing this particular electric vehicle? Something known as range anxiety. I travel a lot and I’m not sure the Lightning’s reported 320-mile battery range can handle the long miles I demand from my truck.

But the road-trip landscape is getting exponentially more EV-friendly every year. Several years ago, the average max range of an EV per charge was around 100 miles. Today that has more than doubled to 216 miles, according to the non-profit .

Even better news, the network of public charging stations is about to boom, with more than 51,000 already operating in the U.S., according to the Department of Energy. The federal government has allocated $7.5 billion to building more public EV chargers over the next several years to boost that number tenfold to 500,000 across the country by 2030.

In other words, it’s getting easier all the time to take an EV road trip. Just ask Liv and Patrick Leigh, veterans of multiple 1,000+ mile adventures in their Ford Mustang Mach-E, documented on their blog, “We had a lot of anxiety heading out on our first EV road trip,” Liv says. “But after several long trips and seeing friends crisscross the country in EVs, we know it can be done.”

The key to a successful EV road trip, according to the Leighs, is to plan ahead, using apps like or , which offer maps of every public charging station in the country and update you on their status, so you’ll know in advance if one is broken or busy. That advice is worth repeating: Download an app with real-time data.

There are plenty of EV-friendly road trip options out there, and most major car rental agencies now offer electric vehicles you can try out if you’re curious. In addition to gas savings and a lessened environmental impact, it’s possible that EVs actually make the Great American Road Trip even better than ever.

“We’ve learned to enjoy road trips even more now that we are taking an EV,” Patrick Leigh says. “Previously, in our gas car, road trips were all about getting to our destination as quickly as possible. … Now the EV gives us an excuse to stop, stretch our legs, talk to people, and enjoy the journey.”

I’ve mapped out seven scenic and adventurous road trips that you can pull off in an electric vehicle. Each starts from a large city, so you can rent an EV if you don’t have one, and all of them make the most of the burgeoning public charging network, which I’ve noted for each below. Maybe someday you’ll see me out there in that Lightning.

1. The Classic Desert Road Trip: Las Vegas to Grand Canyon National Park

Length: 350 miles

Driving from Vegas to the Grand Canyon is about as iconic a road trip as you can get. With copious DC Fast Chargers along the southern route, including a brand-new one installed by Electrify America near the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, this classic route is an ideal option for EVs.

Day 1: Las Vegas to Flagstaff, Arizona

253 miles

This is a big-mileage day to get you out of Vegas and closer to the Grand Canyon, but there are some potential adventure stops along the way. Las Vegas is loaded with DC fast chargers, so juice up here. Then head south on Highway 93, crossing over the Colorado River below Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam as you enter Arizona. If it’s hot and you feel like taking a dip, head to , on the Arizona side of Lake Mead. Or keep heading south and hike the easy trail to , which is just a quick detour away. There’s a fast charger at the Kroger grocery store in the town of Kingman, about 100 miles into the trip, if you want to top off.

Your destination for the night is Flagstaff, Arizona, where has a mix of inn rooms and cottages surrounding communal outdoor space with fire pits, tables, and lawn games, also a sauna and plunge pool (from $114 a night). You can charge your car at the DC Fast charger at the Walmart off Route 66.

Day 2: Flagstaff to Grand Canyon National Park

80 miles

Head north from Flagstaff for 80 miles on Highway 180 and Highway 64 to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. There’s a hyper fast DC charger at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center in the Grand Canyon Village. If it’s your first time visiting the Grand Canyon, you’re obligated to hike the , which descends from the lip of the canyon to the Colorado River in 9.5 miles of switchbacks, dropping 4,500 feet in elevation. Most people don’t hike the whole trail, though, so consider an 11-mile out-and-back to Plateau Point, passing through wild gardens and petroglyphs before ending at the outcropping that gives the hike its name, with impressive views of the Colorado River and sandstone canyon walls.

2. The Island-Hopping Road Trip: Miami to Key West

170 miles

Much of the South is an EV-charging-station desert, but Florida is an outlier, with more than 2,500 public charging stations, the third-most of any state in the country. A lot of those stations are located in South Florida, making this fun, beach-centric road trip from Miami to the southern tip of America an EV breeze.

Tesla drivers in particular will find plenty of super chargers throughout the islands, but there are Electrify America Fast Chargers in Miami, Key Largo, and Key West. Many of the hotels and resorts also have chargers for guests, so consider an overnight at EV-friendly lodging.

Day One: Miami to Key Largo

70 miles

While still in Miami, hop on the daily paddle of Jones Lagoon, inside Biscayne Bay National Park, with the . The half-day adventure has you paddling a SUP through narrow channels between mangroves looking for turtles and baby sharks in the shallow, clear water ($99 per person).

From the park, head south 70 miles on Highway 1 to Key Largo, where you can snorkel on Molasses Reef, inside the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. The live barrier reef is several miles off the coast, but sits in just 10 feet of water, making it an ideal spot for viewing. offers two afternoon trips to the reef daily ($70 per person).

Fuel up at the ElectrifyAmerica fast charging station at the Tradewinds shopping center in the middle of the island. has charging stations for guests, and its own private beach (from $412 a night).

Day Two: Key Largo to Key West

100 miles

Moving south through the Middle Keys, take time to kayak the half mile from Islamorada to an 11-acre island and park only accessible by small boat (entrance fee is $2.50 per person). Here you can hike through the ruins of a 19^th-century town that existed solely to salvage items from ships run aground on nearby reefs, or paddle the healthy seagrass that surrounds the island.

Returning to the road, you can visit the Monroe County Public Library on Marathon Key, which has a free public Level 2 charger. Your next destination is ($8 parking fee), which has one of the prettiest beaches in the entire country. Then continue south to Key West, where you can rent a bike to cruise the eight-square-mile island ( rents bikes of all kinds from $14 a day), and hit , a public beach lined with palm trees and easy, shallow-water snorkeling.

A number of hotels have slower Level 1 chargers that guests can plug into overnight, including the , which is located on the waterfront of Old Town Key West, putting you within walking distance of popular destinations like Mallory Square and Duval Street (from $360 a night). But there’s also an ElectrifyAmerica ultra-fast charger at the Bank of America on Key West, so you’ll be able to recharge wherever you stay.

3. The Perfect Western Road Trip: Denver to Moab

360 miles

This is one of my all-time favorite road trips. Even though the majority of this drive is on the much-maligned I-70, the pit stops along the way are bucket-list worthy, and the final destination is highlighted by two of the most stunning national parks in the West. The I-70 corridor, loaded with DC fast chargers established by a number of different companies, is one of the most EV-friendly roads in the Rockies.

Day One: Denver to Glenwood Springs

75 miles

Get your junk miles out of the way as you head west on I-70 for 75 miles to Frisco, where your detours will be determined by the season. If it’s winter, you’re skiing at Breckenridge or Keystone. If you’re here during summer or shoulder seasons, take your mountain bike for a spin in the , which is free and has dedicated uphill and downhill trails designated by difficulty. The place has dirt jumps and a massive pump track, but don’t overdo it: there’s more mountain biking ahead.

Refuel at the DC fast charger at the Frisco Walmart, and drive past Vail (potential for fly fishing in the summer and powder in the winter) as you make your way to Glenwood Springs, where relaxation will be your priority.

Check out the , which are essentially natural steam rooms, and consider getting a room at the , so you can have immediate access to their hot springs-fed pool (from $199 a night). You have two options for refueling in Glenwood Springs, a ChargePoint fast charger at Starbucks or an ElectrifyAmerica at Target.

Day Two: Glenwood Springs to Palisade

75 miles

There are enough charging stations to get you all the way to Moab, but please—spend a day or so in Palisade, one of Colorado’s hidden gems and one of my favorite towns. If you’re here in ski season, gets 250 inches of snow a year, on 600 acres. If it’s bike weather, get a shuttle from and ride the 32-mile Palisade Plunge, a pedal-heavy downhill trail with plenty of technical bits and cliffy exposure (shuttle rides from $34 a person, available seasonally).

Day Three: Palisade to Moab, Utah

124 miles

There’s a DC fast charger at the Stop n Save in Grand Junction, just west of Palisade that you should hit on your way out of town, but also a fast charger at the city offices in the town of Fruita, near the border of Utah. In the way that people have long known to fill up on gas here, charge up before heading out into the desert.

OK, now you’re taking I-70 west to Highway 191 south into Moab, where you can choose from hiking in Arches National Park or Canyonlands National Park, or mountain biking in Dead Horse Point State Park. If I had to choose just one adventure, it would be the 7.6-mile traverse of the area inside Arches, which also takes in the postcard-worthy Landscape Arch.

Get a room at , in Moab, which has a fast charger and an outdoor pool and hot tub. There’s another charger for Teslas on Main Street. Be sure you charge your vehicle fully in town if you plan on exploring the desert, and keep an eye on your battery life, as there are currently no public chargers in the outlying areas.

4. The Vermont Ski Road Trip: Burlington to Killington

200 miles

Cold will reduce your EV battery life by about 25 percent (in below-freezing temps), according to a study by . That jumps to 50 percent if you’re running the heater. The good news? This particular road trip is low on total mileage with super chargers along the way and chargers at each resort. Recharge while you ski!

Day One: Burlington to Jay Peak, 70 miles

The town of Burlington has 80 Level 2 chargers, including a handful of plugs at Burton Snowboards that are open to the public on weekends and weekday evenings. There’s also a ChargePoint fast charger at Burlington’s Electric Department. After fueling up, head north 70 miles to only five miles south of the Canadian border, which enjoys some of the best snow east of the Rockies (more than 300 inches most seasons) over its 385 acres of terrain (lift ticket prices still TBD). The glades hold the best snow on this windy mountain. You’ll find good tree runs off every lift, but Beaver Pond Glade has beautifully spaced trees with countless options for lines. Not into skiing? Jay Peak grooms more than 20 miles of fat-bike trails.

Jay Peak Resort has 14 Tesla chargers, and at the base of the resort has Level 2 chargers as well as Tesla connectors (average rate is $400 a night).

Day Two: Jay Peak to Stowe Mountain Resort

Wake early and head an hour south (60 miles) to , where almost 500 acres of skiable terrain is split across two mountains (lift tickets from $143 a day). The terrain is notoriously steep, with the famous Front Four trails (Goat, Liftline, National, and Starr) offering double-fall line, double-black pitches. For something less intimidating, check out Main Street, a long intermediate cruiser with views of the surrounding Green Mountains.

The has ski in/ski out digs (from $400 a night).

Stowe operates a handful of throughout the picturesque downtown, but you can also head straight to the and get some of the best IPAs in the Northeast while filling up at their DC Fast charger.

Day Three: Stowe to Killington

If you have an extra day, continue south for 85 miles to Killington Mountain Resort, but make sure you stop at the Ben and Jerry’s Factory, in Waterbury, where you can get a scoop from this iconic ice-cream brand and recharge at their DC fast charger. Killington Resort itself has a full assortment of chargers throughout the base area, so again you can As for the terrain, Killington, dubbed “the Beast of the East,” has 1,500 acres to choose from. The most iconic line on the mountain is Outer Limits, which offers 1,200 vertical feet of bumps. Park rats should check out The Stash, a hidden park developed in partnership with Burton with features scattered throughout the trees.

5. The Classic California Road Trip: Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Big Sur

150 miles

California has more than 73,000 public charging stations, roughly a third of all such stations in the country, so if you suffer from range anxiety, consider any road trip in the Golden State the perfect option. This particular route is a mega classic, following the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Big Sur, hitting state beaches and inland forests.

Day One: San Francisco to Santa Cruz

80 miles

As you head south from San Francisco, stop at Pacifica, a beachfront town with good surf, a walkable pier, and dramatic coastline. Get the lay of the land by exploring Mori Point, a 110-acre swath of beach and bluffs that is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. You can peruse the black sand of Sharp Park Beach, or hike a through wildflower meadows that culminates with a bluff-top view of the Pacific.

Your next stop is the town of Half Moon Bay, where you can watch big wave legends surf Mavericks Beach, and top off at the DC fast charger at the Bank of America on Main Street. As you move below Half Moon Bay, you’ll pass a series of State Park-managed beaches, most with dramatic landscapes where the cliffs meet the water, so you can’t go wrong with any detour. But has a mile of soft sand, an ever-evolving collection of driftwood art, and a very cool rock bridge jutting out of the sand ($8 parking fee). If you want to spot some wildlife, Reserve has a large population of breeding elephant seals that lounge on the beach during the winter ($10 entrance fee).

Hole up for the night in Santa Cruz, at , a funky but upscale inn in the center of town (from $156 a night) with an outdoor pool and fire pits. Charge your vehicle at the DC Fast Charger at the Whole Foods in the center of town.

Day Two: Santa Cruz to Big Sur

60 miles

If you’re itching to surf, head to Cowell’s Beach, a mellow break that’s protected from big swells and has a laid-back vibe that makes it beginner friendly ( has rentals from $30 a day). After testing the waters, continue south on Highway 1, hugging the coast and, if you like, hitting , which protects 1,000 acres of high dunes and pristine beach.

There are a couple of DC fast chargers as you approach Monterey, and an ElectrifyAmerica DC fast charger at the Target in Monterey proper. Juice up if you need to, and keep heading south toward Big Sur, with its awesome juxtaposition of cliffs, forest, and waves. You could spend a week in this nook of California and never get bored. Still, make time to explore Pfeiffer Beach, a day-use area in ($15 entry fee) which has cliffs, natural bridges, and purple sand. No kidding.

There’s no shortage of upscale digs in this lush corner of California, but it’s hard to beat the location of , which has renovated motor lodge rooms or cabins (from $385 a night) and its own hiking trail through towering redwoods where you’ll find swimming holes on the Big Sur River. EV drivers can also refuel overnight at the Level 1 charger at the lodge.

DC fast chargers are scarce in Big Sur (so are cell and internet service), but Tesla drivers can juice up at the Ventana Supercharger on the south end. And as long as you topped off in Monterey, you should have plenty of juice for the return trip north.

Keep in mind that road closures do pop up on Highway 1 in Big Sur because of rock slides. Check page for current status.

6. A Stunning Pacific Coast Road Trip: The Southern Cascade Loop Scenic Highway

205 miles

We’ve called the 440-mile Cascade Loop, which travels from the coast of Washington into the mountains and back, one of the prettiest drives in the country. It’s also one of the most EV friendly, and has been for almost a decade, thanks to Washington State’s emphasis on adding charging stations to its scenic byways. The northern portion of the highway is closed in the winter, but the southern part is open and awesome. You can see one itinerary in the link above, but below, we’ve detailed a 200-mile option along the southern corridor with winter in mind. Think: Bavarian villages and endless cross-country ski trails.

Day One: Everett to Leavenworth, 100 miles

Pick up the southern leg of the Cascade Loop in Everett, just north of Seattle, and take Highway 2 east towards Leavenworth. Follow the Skykomish River and climb 4,000 vertical feet to , an 1,125-acre resort that sits at the top of the Cascade Range and pulls down more than 450 inches of snow a year (lift tickets from $100). Advanced skiers should head straight for the 7^th Heaven Chair and aim for the steep chutes that collect great powder and offer big bumps. Stevens Pass also offers the rare treat of night skiing.

Then head further east to the town of Leavenworth, a Bavarian-themed village that goes all out in the winter; the entire town is decked out with holiday lights from Thanksgiving to Valentine’s Day. The town also operates a small ski hill (named appropriately, “Ski Hill”) with a tow rope and sledding run. In other seasons it is a center for hiking, boating, mountain biking, and climbing and bouldering.

There are a few DC fast chargers in Leavenworth, including one at City Hall and another at the Safeway grocery store. Grab a room at , a budget-friendly adventure inn in the heart of downtown with its own beer garden (from $109 a night).

Day Two: Leavenworth to the Methow Valley

Head down the east side of Stevens Pass on Highway 2 and take Highway 97 north into the Lake Chelan Valley, where more than 30 wineries dot the shores of Lake Chelan. Drop into the family-owned , where rows of grapes overlook the blue water of the lake and the tasting room is open daily. Show up in November and you can experience harvest season and taste wine straight from the barrel at certain events.

Continue north, taking Highway 153 directly into the heart of the Methow Valley, which boasts the largest network of groomed cross-country ski trails in the country. You’ll have 130 miles of trails to choose from. Grab a day pass ($30, rentals ($30) and lessons (starting at $50) if you need them at .

, in Winthrop, offers direct access to the Methow Valley Ski Trails, as well as 20km of trails on the property, and a charging ports for guests (from $207 a night).

7. A Lake Michigan Road Trip: Traverse City to Manistee

150 miles

Michigan has one of the most robust charging infrastructures in the Midwest, increasing the number of chargers in the state by more than 200 percent in the last three years. Considering the car as we know it was born in Michigan, we appreciate seeing the state evolve with the tech. This road trip is short, but delivers, as it follows Highway 22 around Leelanau Peninsula, a skinny spit of land jutting out into Lake Michigan. There are cherries, lighthouses, beaches and dunes. Hit it now, before the snow hits, or wait until late spring. You’ll begin and end in towns with DC fast chargers and have plenty of Level 2 options along the way.

Day One: Traverse City to Leland

60 miles

Juice up at the Hall Street Public Parking charger and head north on Highway 22 as it hugs the Grand Traverse Bay, offering countless views of Lake Michigan. When you hit Northport, head north of town to the tip of the peninsula to hike on the edge of Cat Head Bay. One of the oldest lighthouses in the Great Lakes Area sits on the edge of the park, and you can hike the 4.6-mile which will lead you by a small, interior lake and a sandy beach on Lake Michigan.

Moving south, take a pitstop at Hallstedt Homestead Cherries, a u-pick farm.

You’ll pass which protects 1,700 acres of forest and sandy bluffs that’s popular with nesting eagles, aiming for the small town of Leland, which sits on an isthmus between Lake Michigan and Lake Leelanau, home to “Fishtown,” a collection of historic fishing shacks. It’s a supremely walkable town with easy access to public beaches and boat launches. puts you in the heart of the action, with rooms overlooking the Leland Dam (from $179 a night). You can walk to Van’s Beach to catch the sunset, then peruse town for some fish sausage. Yes, that’s a thing.

Day Two: Leland to Manistee

Continue south on Highway 22 and drive directly to ($25 entrance fee per car), home to massive sand dunes that rise 450 feet above Lake Michigan. Spend some time here climbing the dunes (yes, it’s allowed) and relaxing at the Platte River Point, where the river of the same name flows into the lake.

Heading further south, grab a beer at in Frankfort and end the day in Manistee, where you’ll want to catch another sunset at Fifth Avenue Beach, and stroll the pier to the Manistee North Pierhead Lighthouse. The , in Manistee, will put you on the water and it has a Level 2 charger for EVs (rooms from $171 a night). The Marathon Gas Station has a DC fast charger where you can refuel.

Graham Averill is şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine’s national parks columnist. He’s been an avid road-tripper ever since becoming obsessed with the Beat poets as a teenager. An electric road trip is enticing to Graham because he likes the idea of taking a nap while his car charges mid-trip.

The post 7 Stunning Road Trips for Electric Vehicles appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

Crazy though it may sound, my coldest memory ever is from Maui. Yes, the island’s shores are gloriously sunny and warm, but temperatures drop as you ascend the slopes of Haleakala, an active volcano currently in a non-eruptive state whose name means “house of the sun.” Haleakala has become synonymous with sunrise, and like many visitors, I was originally drawn to seeing the dawn up there, nearly 20 years ago. I rallied a crew of friends to set out at 2 a.m. for the winding 50-minute drive from the town of Haiku up to Haleakala National Park. As we entered the park gates, the weather changed from mild into something reminiscent of a Scottish mizzle. By the time our car reached the 9,800-foot lookout, just past 3 a.m., we were bundled in fleeces and blankets and pouring thermoses of hot tea.

We stood out on the viewpoint eagerly awaiting the first hues of golden light to peek past the crater’s edge. Crater is a misnomer—the massive valley was carved by water erosion, not a volcanic explosion. In the dark, it looks like a vast black hole, but sunlight reveals swirls of obsidian lava flows layered with red, orange, and green cinder cones. I zipped up my fleece and snickered when I saw other visitors bundling up in hats, gloves, and even snow pants, as if a blizzard were coming. Five minutes later I regretted laughing when the clouds rolled in to dump a bone-chilling hail on us. My teeth chattered and my fingers went numb, but we stuck it out for another two hours only to realize the sun had already risen behind the thick wall of clouds. We’d been skunked. Despite my failed first visit, I went back a few months later to score my first sunrise (the weather was dry this round) and have returned many times since, for everything else the park offers.

When people tell you to anticipate all weather in Haleakala National Park, they mean it. Your preparedness can be the difference between a miserable and magical experience. And to avoid disappointment, don’t plan a trip solely around sunrise. Yes, watching those first rays burst through sherbet-hued clouds is a somewhat spiritual experience. But now I always line up an adventure or great meal afterward, be it a hike or trail run in the park or an indulgent breakfast just outside of the gate, to justify the drive.

Haleakala commands attention. Occupying nearly half of the sky, the volcano feels omnipresent. You see it through the airplane window when you approach the island, from your car while driving, out in the lineup surfing. The more time you spend on Maui, the more you feel its pull. Haleakala beckons to be explored but also understood, present and past. According to Hawaiian legend, the demigod Maui stood on the volcano’s summit and lassoed the sun from its journey across the sky, slowing it down to increase the growing season.

With stunning hiking trails, dramatic waterfalls, spectacular stargazing, and bucket-list birdwatching, you’ll want to tick off more than the summit. Most people don’t realize the park is divided into two completely distinct districts, each with its own entrance separated by miles of dense forest. A visit to Maui feels incomplete without spending time exploring both sides.The lunar-like Summit District, which contains the dormant volcano, comprises a massive valley (what most incorrectly call a crater) carved by water and landslides and dotted with rust-hued puu (cinder cones). It’s a geological wonder and home to rare species like the extraterrestrial-looking silversword, a plant you’ll only find here, and endangered endemic birds such as the Ę»akohekohe, or crested honeycreeper. On the island’s east side, the Kipahulu or Coastal District, is trapped-in-time Maui, with its verdant gulches, bamboo forests, and cascading waterfalls.Ěý

What You Need to Know Before Traveling to Haleakala National Park

Figure Out Your Logistics

To go from one district to the other, you need to exit out of the park and drive around the island to the other entrance.

Stop in at one of the park’s (all wheelchair accessible; more accessibility info can be foundĚý), particularly the one on the edge of the crater, to learn about Haleakala’s native lore and mythology, as well as its native birds and 850-plus species of plants—more than 300 of which are found nowhere else in the world.

Make a Reservation to Watch Sunrise

One of Maui’s bucket-list activities, sunrise viewing was drawing such large crowds that the park now requires advance , which often sell out. Reservations cost $1 per vehicle and can be made online up to 60 days ahead. A portion of reservations for any given day is also set aside and released 48 hours in advance. Yes, people do arrive when the park opens at 3 a.m., to score a prime spot in one of four viewing locations.

Prepare for All Weather

If you think you don’t need a jacket in Hawaii, think again. It may be sunny and 80 degrees by the beach, but the temperature drops about three degrees for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Year-round summit temps range between subfreezing to highs of 65 degrees, and windchill and overcast conditions often make it feel colder. The weather is also completely unpredictable. The park’s offers a live feed of conditions, but they can change quickly. I’ve started many hikes and runs on the Halemauu Trail, which descends to the crater floor, in blazing heat only to have clouds roll in minutes later: the temperature dropped and low clouds drenched me in rain. The high elevation means intense solar rays, so pack sun protection (sunscreen, hat, shades).

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřrs Mike Chambers and Jason Antin offer their gear recommendations for an active trip in Maui. (Video: Courtesy şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř TV)

Fuel Up in Advance

Pack enough food for the day, because there is no food for sale within the park, and the only drinking water available is at the visitor centers, so make sure your water bottles are full. There are no gas stations inside the park, either. The last chance for gas on the way to the Summit District is the town of Pukalani, 18 miles before you reach the park. For the Kipahulu District, the last chance for gas along the Hana Highway is the town of Paʻia, 45 miles before the destination. Electric-car users take note: the park has no charging stations, and most electric vehicles with a full charge have been unable to make it to the summit of Haleakala. See driving information .

How to Get to Haleakala National Park

The more remote Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park can be accessed by driving 12 miles past the town of Hana, on the famous Hana Highway that circumscribes the northeast coast of the island of Maui. The 64-mile infamously narrow and curvy Road to Hana begins in the North Shore surf town of Paia and can be jammed with traffic, so leave early and build in time to stop for banana bread—stands are ubiquitous. I personally like the loaves from Aunt Sandy’s in Ke’Anae because they’re served warm. To reach the Summit District entrance, it takes between 50 and 90 minutes from Maui’s main tourist areasĚývia the Haleakala Highway.

If you love a grind, you can cycle to Haleakala’s summit via what Strava has deemed “the world’s longest paved climb.” From Paia, the road climbs 10,000 feet over 36 miles and reaches gradients of 18 percent. The ascent typically takes six to eight hours. rents road bikes ($65 a day) and hosts weekly guided rides ($250) with a support vehicle leaving from its shop in Paia and concluding at the park entrance at 6,500 feet.

There’s no shame in requesting a ride back down to town. You’ll be exhausted at the top, and when the weather is wet and bone-chilling, I’ve found my frozen hands barely able to squeeze the brakes on the steep descent. If you’re super hardcore, you can break from the group and continue to the top for Strava bragging rights.

The Best Time of Year to Visit Haleakala National Park

Winter and summer are typically the busiest seasons on the island, and a trip to Haleakala National Park is on most visitors’ agendas. However, if you visit during off-peak hours (anytime other than sunrise and sunset), with the exception of the summit the park rarely feels crowded. I always recommend late fall, when temperatures range between 50 to 60 degrees—perfect for hiking. You’re also more likely then to spot the circular rainbow at Rainbow Bridge, a viewpoint along the Halemauu Trail. This natural occurrence, known as the Brocken Spectre, takes place in just three places in the world—on Maui and in Germany and Scotland. On Maui, it only shows up in the late fall to early spring because of the direction the sun rises in the sky.

Where to Stay In and Near Haleakala National Park

Campgrounds

The campground in has a dreamy perch on ocean cliffs so you wake up to the sound of crashing waves and the smell of salty ocean air. Located a short distance from the visitor center, the grounds have 20 sites—15 for car camping and five walk-ins. are required ($20 per night with a three-night max stay). Sites have picnic tables, charcoal grills, and pit toilets, and drinking water can be collected at a filling station outside of the visitor-center restrooms. If you need basic supplies, two general stores are a 10-mile drive away. The campground’s proximity to some of the area’s main natural attractions, including ‘Ohe’o Gulch, which is a 10-minute walk, makes it a perfect base.

Less than a five-minute drive from the Summit District entrance, is the only wheelchair-accessible campground in the park, reached via a paved path. The campground is set at nearly 7,000 feet in a cloud belt, so again be prepared for the elements. If you have the right gear, the misty mornings in the forest are straight out of a storybook, and a mellow, self-guided approximate half-mile nature loop through eucalyptus and cedar stands begins right from camp. Six designated sites have picnic tables, grills, and access to potable water, and there are pit toilets in the parking lot. Ěýare required ($20 per night, three-night cap). Also be aware that just because you’re already in the park doesn’t mean you can drive to the summit for sunrise. You’ll still need a sunrise reservation.

There are two primitive within the park, both of which require ($20 per night, maximum of three nights). The easiest to access, Holua, is 3.7 miles one way down the Halemauu Trail. The other is the often rainy, 9.3-mile one-way hike to the Paliku campsites via the . You’ll need to be a strong and fit hiker with backcountry experience to attempt that one.

You don’t need to be a mathematician to guess there is only a small probability of scoring an overnight in one of three 12-person wilderness cabins in a park that welcomed 853,000 visitors in 2021. book up six months in advance ($75 a night). But sleeping under a glittery star-filled sky is worth the constant effort to score a spot, as well as the strenuous hike in—a minimum 3.7-mile effort.

Hotels

Hotel-Maui Resort

The only hotel on Maui’s east side, the historic Hana-Maui Resort, was recently taken over by Hyatt and is a convenient and cushy base for exploring the Kipahulu District. All 74 rooms have lanais (verandas), and it’s worth splurging for an ocean view. The resort has two huge pools; a fantastic, albeit pricey, spa; free hatha-based yoga classes; and mostly complimentary cultural activities, like spear throwing and lei making. The complimentary cruiser bikes are my favorite way to reach Hamoa Beach, a slightly hilly 3.3-mile ride from the hotel. Two on-site restaurants can feel redundant and expensive after a few nights. Rooms have mini fridges, so I buy breakfast basics and snacks in Paia, where prices are lower and choices more extensive. Food trucks dominate Hana’s limited dining options and only stay open for lunch; all are walking or biking distance from the hotel (most park across from the hotel’s Hana Ranch Restaurant). In the past, I’ve requested a microwave in my room so I can reheat food for dinner, and the hotel has accommodated.

Price: From $409

Kula Lodge and Restaurant

Just a 30-minute drive from the Summit District entrance, five cabin-like cottages at Kula Lodge and Restaurant have ocean views, and all are surrounded by gardens (from $310).Ěý This is an amenity-rich lodge for exploring the park and upcountry region.

Price: From $310

Malu Manu

For something more remote and romantic, and a similar distance from the park, book a few nights at Malu Manu, a one-bedroom log cabin set at 4,250 feet with a wood-burning fireplace—yes, you’ll need it at this elevation—and what in my opinion is Maui’s best sunset bicoastal view.

Price: From $395

Lumeria

A bit further away from the park, yet closer to the shops and restaurants of Paia, is Lumeria, a 24-room retreat in Haiku with a holistic spa, saline pool, and gorgeous landscaped grounds featuring a meditation garden, Buddha statues, and views of the West Maui Mountains.

Price: From $449

What to Do in Haleakala National Park

Hiking

This is a hiking paradise, with over 30 miles of trails for all fitness levels. If you’re looking for more than a workout and awesome photos, I highly recommend booking a hike with a local operator like . Knowledgeable guides pack in three hikes over seven hours and will school you in all kinds of subjects, from endangered species, like the fiery red Ę»ľ±Ę»ľ±·Éľ± bird and nene (Hawaiian goose), to geology trivia about the dormant volcano. Fun fact: standing 28,000 feet above the sea floor, it’s the third-tallest mountain on earth.

is a low-effort hike that delivers big rewards. Parking for the trailhead is just a quarter mile from the Summit District entrance, and the half-mile loop is lined with aromatic pine, eucalyptus, and pine forest. It is home to the native Hawaiian honeycreeper, found nowhere else on earth.

The Ěý(Gaia GPS trail seen below) sits at 8,000 feet and is named after the rare Hawaiian fern species found here. This path requires steady footing and stamina, as it descends 1,400 feet over two miles of switchbacks, and the climb back out at altitude can be challenging. If you’re feeling fatigued early on, it’s smarter to stop half-way down just past the first viewpoint to Rainbow Bridge. Go early for the best chance of seeing the famed rainbow halo that forms just below the bridge as the clouds come up the valley to your left.

If you continue on the steep ridge to the crater floor (proven by scientists to be the quietest place on earth), you’ll reach Holua, on the park’s three . Just keep remembering that you’ll have to trek back out and up.

or Sliding Sands is my favorite hike for its otherworldly landscapes of technicolor lava and always-changing light. If you want to do the full 11.2 miles you have two options. You can make it an out-and-back and descend 5.6 miles straight down into the Martian-like floor of the crater (or however far you choose). Be warned: the hike back up is a calf-burner. You can also combine it with the Halemauu Trail for an 11.2-mile point-to-point trail across the crater floor. You’ll just need to arrange for someone to pick you up, as the park doesn’t offer shuttles.

Hikes in the Kipahulu District offer completely different scenery. The four-mile round-trip is a quintessential Hawaii hike, winding through bamboo forests and with multiple views of waterfalls. Download the NPS App to take a self-guided tour of the Kuloa Point Trail (see map below) so you can learn about plants brought by Polynesian voyagers and observe hale (houses) built by early people, en route to the stunning Ę»OheĘ»o Gulch.Ěý

Sunrise and Sunset

When I’m on Maui, I typically watch the sunrise while catching waves at my favorite surf spot. But I’ve rarely regretted skipping a dawn patrol session to glimpse the first golden rays spill across the crater’s summit. Scoring a reservation can feel like playing the lottery, but persistence pays off. There are four viewing locations in the park. The Puu Ula is the highest at 10,023 feet and often fills up first. The Leleiwi Overlook is accessed via a ten-minute hike from its parking lot. I like to arrive early and head here first for my pick of viewing options. Despite the hype of the summit, I think the best sunrise position is just below at Haleakala Visitor Center. If you can’t score a reservation for a DIY visit, book a sunrise tour through the local operator Ěý($209).

Locals consider sunset even more colorful than sunrise. You don’t need a reservation and it can be bookended with a hike in the park and stargazing. The sunset view is great from nearly anywhere in the park, but if you’re set on a summit vista, park in the lot below the summit. The uphill walk to the top is just ten minutes and lets you avoid the inevitable Summit lot traffic jam once the sun goes down.

Stargazing

The high altitude and minimal light pollution at the summit often makes it look like someone tossed a sequined scarf across the night sky. The stars dazzle, the Milky Way shines, and meteor showers dance above. Simply staring and taking it all in is wondrous, but if you’re a nerd like me and want more context, book a tour with Ěý(from $235). Five-hour tours begin at sunset. As the sky darkens, your guide uses a super-strength Dobsonian telescope to zero in on planets, nebulae, star clusters, and even other galaxies.Ěý

The Best Places to Eat and Drink Around Haleakala National Park

While the park itself doesn’t offer any type of food services, there are a handful of fantastic, farm-fresh restaurants and markets upcountry. If you plan to pack a lunch, Hosmer Grove, in the Summit District, has a covered picnic area with grills. On Saturdays, I love to hit the Upcountry Farmers Market in Pukalani ahead of a hike in the park. You’ll find every imaginable fruit (lilikoi, mango, pineapple), hand-crafted kombucha, and prepared foods, like red pumpkin Thai curry and empanadas.

, a working farm specializing in honey with a bountiful stand and coffee bar, sells produce as well as homemade foods, including peanut butter-energy bars (sweetened with honey, of course), Ayurvedic balance bowls with mung beans and kale, and hand pies. It’s worth planning ahead and booking a reservation to attend one of Maui Bees’ weekly farm dinners. The communal event kicks off with a farm tour at 4 p.m., followed by a six-course meal featuring inventive dishes like rhubarb banana curry with ono and kabocha squash. The farm’s high perch offers bicoastal views of neighboring islands including Koho’olawe and Lanai, and the West Maui Mountains, and dessert is timed to sunset.

Located outside of the park on the slopes of Haleakala, is a casual local spot with Italian trattoria vibes. Breakfast hits include mahi eggs Benedict and loco moco, a hearty Hawaiian staple of eggs, a beef patty, and steamed rice smothered in a rich gravy. Lunch and dinner menus offer a little of everything, from Caesar salads and turkey and avocado paninis to Bolognese and chicken parm.

The aforementioned Kula Lodge and Restaurant has a beautiful garden terrace. The signature goat cheese and caramelized onion quiche is my go-to post-sunrise breakfast. At lunch, I like to order healthy and get the grilled fish sandwich (usually ono) with a harvest salad, so I can justify a slice of lilikoi pie for dessert. Next door, Kula Marketplace is stocked with locally made crafts, like hand-thrown pottery, honey and jams made from island bees and fruits, and quick grab-and-go drinks and snacks.

After a big effort in the park, treat yourself with a Neapolitan-style pizza and beer from the restaurant . The chef, Jeff Scheer, does everything from scratch, from milling whole wheat berries for the sourdough crust to hand-stretching the mozzarella and growing the toppings. You can eat in the Scandi-minimalist dining room, or Scheer’s menu is also available next door at , and the tap room regularly hosts live music. My perfect pairing: the Idaho Hazy IPA and Arrabbiata pie topped with shaved Parmesan, garlic, and Calabrian chili.

If You Have Time for a Detour

If you’re planning on visiting the Kipahulu District, consider spending a night or two in the town of Hana to truly sense Maui’s slower pace. Day trip from Hana to nearby , a photo favorite for its black-sand beach and blowholes, and hit up some of the area’s fantastic food trucks, which serve everything from mahi mahi tacos to BBQ ribs. You’ll want to arrive early at Thai Food by Pranee, as the fresh-catch curry specials often sell out before noon.

The upcountry town of Makawao provides a glimpse of Maui’s paniolo (cowboy) past and boasts some of the island’s best indie boutiques, such as Holoholo Surf and the Monarch Collective, and beloved bake shop, Maui Cookie Lady. It’s also home to the 2,093-acre Makawao Forest Reserve, my go-to spot for and .

If you’re into wind sports, tack on a few days on Maui’s North Shore. Ho’okipa beach is the windsurfing and wing-foil mecca, drawing talent from around the world. , Maui’s oldest and largest water-sports school, offers lessons for windsurfing, kiting, stand-up paddling, and wing-foiling. And when it comes to one-on-one kitesurf instruction, Brett Sheerin, owner of , is worth booking in advance. If you’ve already mastered the basics and came to play, you can rent gear at . The nearby artsy town of Paia is packed with funky shops, like Mick’s House of Fleetwood, an eclectic boutique opened by, and namesake of, the music legend; surf shops; and locally loved healthy food spots like Choice Health Bar and the natural grocer Mana Foods.

Maui boasts some of Hawaii’s most spectacular beaches, and its resort enclaves hug most of them. On the island’s southwest side, Wailea is known for its designer shops and beachfront resorts, including Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, where the hit series White Lotus is filmed. It’s also near my favorite beach, , or Big Beach. This wide, 1.5-mile swath of sand rarely feels crowded and has a serious beach break for surfing.

Continue south of Wailea and you run into La Perouse Bay, an awesome snorkel spot. Rental packages at in Wailea Village include fins, goggles, and even a fish I.D. card. The parking lot at La Perouse is also the start of or the King’s Trail, an ancient footpath created by King Pi�ilani that once stretched around the entire island of Maui. If you’re interested in the history, book a guided photography , a local photographer who authored a book on the historic highway.

On the west side, the surf is up in summer. You can hole up in a five-star resort at the exclusive and .

In the winter, Maui’s warm waters welcome so many migrating humpbacks that you’re nearly guaranteed to see some serious tail-splashing. uses small rafting vessels capped at 18 passengers, and a portion of each ticket sale goes back to whale research. If you want a more lounge-y experience aboard a catamaran that includes snacks and cocktails, book with .

How to Be a Conscious Visitor

Ever since Covid-19 restrictions were lifted, Maui has been overwhelmed by tourists. Island life runs at a slower pace than the mainland. Be patient and respectful. Roads to and within the park are winding, and the views can be spectacular. Locals and others on the road will appreciate it if you pull over in designated pull-outs to take photos or, if you’re driving slowly, allow other vehicles to pass. While driving in the Summit District, be extra careful of wildlife, such as nene (Hawaiian goose), on the roadways. When hiking, stay on the trails. They’ve been designed to protect visitors from cliffs and rockfall danger, and to protect cultural sites and native species. Please never take anything, whether lava rocks or silversword plants, out of the park.

If you’re booking a tour, consider first inquiring how the operator gives back to the region. Humble Tours, for example, donates a portion of its profits to a local nonprofit that supports conservation internships for Maui’s youth. And if you’re lucky enough to have a local share a secret spot, be it a beach or surf break, please keep it a secret by skipping the social media posts and geotags.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring Haleakala National Park appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

63 Parks Traveler started with a simple goal: to visit every U.S. national park. Avid backpacker and public-lands nerd saved up, built out a tiny van to travel and live in, and hit the road, practicing COVID-19 best safety protocols along the way. The parks as we know them are rapidly changing, and she wanted to see them before it’s too late. Biscayne is her 55th park visit.

Tropical Storm Eta was closing in on southern Florida by the time I made it to Biscayne in November of 2020. A child of the Gulf Coast and no stranger to hurricanes, I gritted my teeth and laughed at my misfortune, emailing my guide, Jeremy, at the to make sure we were still a go. We were.

Amid warring wind gusts and choppy surf, the two of us set off by boat from the into the open water of Florida’s Biscayne Bay. “This here’s the longest stretch of beach in southeast Florida that still has its natural mangrove trees,” shouted Jeremy over the buzz of the motor. “It’s usually a great place to spot manatees, but the water’s pretty nuts today.”

I listened intently, fixing my gaze on the horizon and our first destination, Jones Lagoon. The boat sputtered as we came to a stop at the center of a maze of mangroves, their submerged roots like the bark-covered arms of some great octopus. Jeremy plopped a pair of stand-up paddleboards into the water of the cove.

This forest of trees between ocean and island provided a safe refuge for pelagic creatures, while the rest of the bay was getting pummeled by high winds. Small sharks wiggled below as I dipped the paddle into the water, my eyes hungry to learn what interesting animals chose this place for a home. At one point, Jeremy thrust the length of his arm into the shallows and pulled up a translucent, many-tendrilled jellyfish for me to hold. Its skin felt slimy and delicate against my palms, like a plastic bag filled with cool milk.

Next up was a stop for snorkeling. We gunned the engine toward a different stand of shoreline trees, and I ventured into the water alone, making Darth Vader noises into my mouthpiece as I kicked my way parallel to the roots of mangroves extending from Elliott Key, one of the park’s most visited islets. A school of tiny, bright yellow fish darted away in fear, and when I stayed as still as I could muster, bobbing up and down in the swell, a pod of enormous lobsters emerged and stared at me for what felt like hours. It sent shivers down my spine.

With the weather worsening and time running out, my guide steered our vessel toward the ornamental lighthouse at , a relic from early industrialist Mark Honeywell’s days of lavish parties there. “The affairs got so wild that, one year, a guest brought his pet elephant aboard his ship!” exclaimed Jeremy.

It was strange to explore this water-based national park on a day of deliriously dreadful weather. I felt like I’d missed out on so much—its historic shipwrecks, colorful coral reefs, manatee sightings—and yet, as we parted ways with the keys and took off for the mainland, I couldn’t help but feel that there was something true and raw and magical about experiencing a national park when a storm is afoot.

Staring ahead at the visitor center as its parade of mangroves grew ever closer, I realized I’d gotten what I’d come for: a park that was weird, wet, and wonderful.

63 Parks Traveler Biscayne Info

Size: 172,971 acres

Location: Southeastern Florida, off the coast of Miami

Created In: 1968 (national monument), 1980 (national park)

Best For: Boating, snorkeling, diving, paddling, island camping, wildlife viewing

When to Go: August through early October is considered peak Atlantic hurricane season, which means there’s a decent chance your summer or fall trip could be derailed by a nasty storm. December (64 to 76 degrees) through April (68 to 79 degrees) are the safest, coolest, and driest months for a visit.

Where to Stay: The National Park Service operates within Biscayne’s boundaries, one on Boca Chita Key and the other on Elliott Key. While Elliott Key’s sites provide more amenities (like cold showers and potable water), the immaculate ocean views and quirky annals of Boca Chita make it well worth an excursion.

Mini şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Go on a day trip with the . Whether you fancy stand-up paddleboarding, sailing, snorkeling, birding, or learning about historic buildings, this nonprofit’s diverse array of tours offer a little something for everyone.

Mega şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř: Dive the Florida Reef, one of the largest in the world. Miami-based companies like offer half- and full-day trips (for certified divers) around the bay to marvel at colorful sponges, tropical fish, and underwater cathedrals.

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There are half a dozen things in the jungle that worry me: skinny green vine snakes, 200-pound panthers, all kinds of poisonous plants. And yet I’m walking through the dense jungle in a bathing suit, with an inflatable tube hanging from my shoulder as if I don’t have a care in the world. Therein lies the beauty of Belize—the country is an odd mixture of foreign and familiar, a living contradiction in the most fascinating ways. It sits in the middle of Central America, flanked by Mexico and Guatemala, but has more in common with Caribbean culture than its immediate neighbors.

The country welcomes foreigners as an integral part of its economy (and takes the American dollar), yet it has managed to resist some of the biggest trappings of that international influence. For example, there are no American chain restaurants. Kentucky Fried Chicken tried to open some locations here in the eighties, but it didn’t stick; locals were curious but ultimately more satisfied with the mom-and-pop shops that operate in backyard kitchens and buying from the women who sell snacks out of coolers on the side of the road.

I’m not suggesting Belize has some sort of identity crisis. On the contrary, the country and its citizens seem to be very comfortable with the cultural nuances at play. It is one of the most stable nations in the region, and one of the most diverse in terms of both culture and adventure. Less than 9,000 square miles, and just 180 miles long and 68 miles wide, it’s roughly the size of Massachusetts, so you might not think there would be much to it. But get this: . And with only 420,000 residents, even though the country’s landmass is small, it’s not hard to find solitude.

Mayans are the original denizens of Belize, having called it home since 1500 B.C., with communities inhabiting the Maya Mountains. Creoles, the descendants of enslaved Africans, make up roughly 24 percent of today’s population, while the majority of Belizeans are Spanish-speaking mestizo, a mixture of Maya and Spanish. The Garifuna, descendants of shipwrecked Africans who blended with native islanders, comprise a small but culturally significant portion of the demographic as well. More recently, a large influx of German-speaking Mennonites and Chinese immigrants have helped diversify the pot. Because the country was a British colony until 1980, English remains the official language (and Queen Elizabeth is still on all of the local currency), but due to the cultural diversity, most Belizeans speak three languages. They grow up speaking Kriol, are taught English in school, and many learn Spanish, thanks to the influence of their Central American neighbors.

The landscape is just as fascinating as the culture. With 240 miles of coastline along the Caribbean Sea, forest-covered mountains in the west, and peaks that rise up to 3,600 feet, Belize shifts between broad-leaved jungle, arid pine hillsides, and a coastline peppered with more than 450 cayes (small, low islands) that are strung together over the world’s second-largest barrier reef. You’ll find restored Maya ruins on one side of the country and seaside villages on the other.

Despite all of the natural resources and the rich heritage, most Americans know little about the country. We’ve made our mark and explored every inch of Costa Rica and Mexico, but aside from those in a handful of expat retirement communities and a few beach towns that get hammered with tourists, most of us find Belize still largely a mystery.

What many have heard of is the Great Blue Hole, a sinkhole amid the barrier reef that Jacques Cousteau labeled one of the best diving spots in the world. The site, with a diameter of 1,000 feet and a depth of 400 feet, is truly amazing, but even more so is the thriving reef that surrounds it, an equally popular attraction.

I recently spent seven days trying to crack the enigma that is Belize. I followed Maya guides into caves and over towering ruins. I snorkeled with third-generation professional water people and hiked through jungles looking for monkeys and wild cats. In the mountains I ate a steady diet of stewed chicken with rice and beans, and on the coast, seafood prepared every way possible. I couldn’t get enough of local delicacies, like banana jam and Marie Sharp’s pepper sauce, both of which changed my life in small, significant ways. A week was not enough. Even though I was constantly moving, seeking the next adventure, I barely scratched the surface. Belize remains a mystery. A delightful one. And I can’t wait to go back.

What You Need to Know Before You Visit

Hire a guide. I enjoy the discovery that trekking alone in the wilderness provides, but you should consider hiring guides for most of your pursuits in Belize. First, adventure guiding is a growing business here. Second, every guide that accompanied me grew up in the country and has a passion for their backyard and its resources. But mostly, you won’t know what you’re looking at without a guide. For instance, I toured Caracol, an impressive site of Maya ruins, with a guide and learned about how the city supported evidence of a middle class in the civilization and also that they believed the saba tree could span heaven, earth, and the underworld. In fact, some Maya sites, like the ATM cave (see below) require accompaniment by local guides to help preserve the sanctity of the area.

Getting around is slow going. It’s a small country, but it takes a long time to drive from one side to the other because there are only four paved highways. Belize is divided into six different districts, though most travelers stick to the mountains in the west, the coastal towns to the south, and the cayes that punctuate the sea. Aside from the highways, the rest of the roads are dirt, which require a four-wheel drive and can become impassable after a hard rain. Land travel between districts and towns is so tough that many travelers and locals take puddle jumpers between the bustling towns of Belize City, San Ignacio, Placencia, and the cayes. Keep this in mind if you’re planning to drive over to the next town or park—20 miles could take an hour or two.

Prepare for the jungle. If you’re going to spend time in the interior, you’ll be in a subtropical ecosystem that has all the hallmarks of a jungle: heat, humidity, and bugs. Lightweight hiking pants and long-sleeved sun shirts will be your best friends when it comes to keeping the bugs off. A layer of deet helps, too. That said, during my time in Belize, I didn’t find the mosquitos to be any worse than what I’ve experienced in Florida or South Carolina. Take a few precautions and you’ll be just fine.

Be serious about conservation. In 2017, the country passed a moratorium on oil exploration in Belizean waters, making it one of the few countries in the world to do so. In the past few years, the government has reigned in illegal fishing while expanding its offshore conservation areas, where hundreds of islands are dotted with resorts catering to anglers, paddlers, and divers. The most tangible and dramatic restoration effort happened recently, when the country sank the Winconcrete, a former World War II ship that will serve as an artificial reef, enhancing both the local ecosystem and its tourism draw. In recent years an environmental coalition that includes the Nature Conservancy, Rainforest Trust, and the World Land Trust purchased 236,000 acres of the Belize Maya Forest, protecting roughly 9 percent of the country’s landmass in a single effort.

Understand that it’s a rapidly developing country. After Belize broke from colonial rule, it experienced a huge developmental leap within a single generation. The growing pains are still apparent (a young road system is the most obvious), and many of the country’s residents remain below poverty level, but the future of Belize looks bright, particularly in terms of eco-tourism and conservation. Before the pandemic, lodges, parks, and Maya sites in the rainforest gave the local economy an annual boost of $15 million. Overall, ecotourism is responsible for $1 billion in annual revenue and more than 20,000 jobs in Belize.

Embrace soft adventure. The mountains and jungles are ripe for serious adventure, and dedicated residents are hard at work developing mountain-bike trail systems and rock-climbing routes. The potential for canyoneering in the Maya Mountains is off the charts as well. But by and large, guided adventures are of the soft variety, and most companies and resorts will steer you toward zip-line tours and cave-tubing opportunities. But don’t fret; the guides are locals who know the jungles well and are often willing to customize an adventure for a client. If there’s a river you want to explore, or a multiday excursion you’re dying to experience, ask guides what’s possible. They’ll probably accommodate you.

Consult travel advisories. While certain sections of Belize City are widely regarded as dangerous due to gang activity, I stuck to touristy neighborhoods and felt safe there and throughout my travels. As always, it’s important to exercise caution and avoid making yourself a target for pickpockets. Check the current from the U.S. Embassy so you can make an informed decision.

Do a lot of research if you want to camp. The country has a variety of established campgrounds, both in the jungle and along the cayes. Most jungle preserves and parks offer camping options, and you might have the entire area to yourself, as the activity isn’t as popular in Belize as it is in the U.S. You’ll need to research each park you’re visiting directly to make sure they have sites for rent, as there’s no central reservation database. Be sure to bring everything you need; you won’t find any independent outdoor stores here.

The Best Time of Year to Visit Belize

Those who visit in the high season, which runs from late November to mid-April, will enjoy consistently pleasant weather, with little rain and mild but warm temperatures that peak in the mid-eighties. It can get chilly at night and in the morning, though, especially in the mountains.

The rainy season coincides with hurricane season, running from June through November, though days typically only see brief afternoon thunderstorms. Hurricanes peak in September and October. The amount of rainfall differs depending on the region, with the south getting three times as much (150 inches) as the north (50 inches).

Aside from April and May, which are the hottest months, when the mercury might might hit triple digits, the temperatures are relatively consistent in Belize. Winter weather is definitely warm enough for swimming in the ocean, although occasional cold fronts, called “northers,” will swoop in for a few days at a time.

Crowds disperse during summer months, and you can find the lowest prices then, but you’ll also deal with the most finicky weather.

How to Get There and Around

Getting to Belize

There are an increasing number of direct flights, most of which fly into Belize City, at the center of the country. Alaska, American, Delta, and United Airlines all offer direct flights to Belize City year-round, and airlines including Frontier, Southwest, and Sun Country Airlines offer direct flights during peak season.

Getting Around Belize

Renting a car is straightforward, and a number of major companies have offices in the Belize City airport, but keep in mind all car rentals have to be returned to their point of origin, and gas is three times as expensive in Belize as it is in the U.S. If you’re going to explore the jungle, it might make sense to rent a four-wheel drive.

While there’s an expansive bus system, it can be slow and unreliable. If you don’t want to rent a car, many resorts offer transfers from the airport. A guided hike or adventure usually includes pickup and drop-off, and many services can also be hired to transport you between cities.

If you’re spending most of your time on the cayes, skip the rental and simply book transfers to airports and ferry landings. Regional airports connect key cities on the mainland to a few of the larger cayes off the coast, andĚý and Ěýrun daily flights between points. and Ěýwill also carry you to the larger and smaller cayes.

Belize Travel: Where to Go

It’s a small country, so you might be inclined to try and “see it all.” Don’t. If you only have a few days, pick one region. If you’re here for a week, consider splitting your time evenly between the islands and the mountains.

There are four regions: northern Belize, western Belize, southern Belize, and the cayes. Central, coastal Belize City offers quick access to the cayes via puddle jumpers and ferries. It’s also the starting point for the only paved highways headed north, west, and south. Western Belize is mountainous, full of waterfalls, Maya archeological sites, caves, and jungle resorts. Off the coast, the 450 cayes are a mix of privately owned, bustling centers of tourism and pristine preserves.

The reef acts as a sort of glue, linking all these islands and attracting snorkelers, divers, and anglers. Southern Belize is home to coastal towns with a vibrant Garifuna culture, like the scrappy port town Dangriga, and up-and-coming tourist towns, like Hopkins Village and Placencia. Inland you’ll find wild rainforests that hide animal preserves and archaeological sites. Northern Belize is the country’s hub of agriculture. Sugarcane is the main crop, but you’ll also find groves of bananas and pineapples.

We’re focusing on the hot spots of adventure—western Belize, southern Belize, and the cayes. Follow this guide to explore Maya sites, trek through jungles and caves, and island-hop along the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, paddling, diving, and fishing as you go.

Western Belize

The 72-mile Western Highway runs from Belize City to the town of San Ignacio, a bustling hub with a lively food and bar scene roughly 11 miles from the Guatemalan border. As you make this drive west, the terrain quickly goes from floodplain (Belize City sits below sea level and was evacuated in the 1960s after a hurricane) to scrub brush to lush tropical forest. The mountains in western Belize rise to 3,681 feet, serving as a backdrop to communities like San Ignacio and Belmopan. From San Ignacio, the pavement mostly ends and the mountain roads that define western Belize can only be tackled by a four-wheel drive.

The terrain is decidedly jungly, with lush broad-leaved forest dominating most of the slopes and limestone crags giving way to hundreds of caves. Rivers run wild, offering numerous waterfalls and swimming holes. Citrus trees are everywhere, and Belizeans like to pull the fruit from the tree before it’s ripe, slice it, and eat it with salt, pepper, lime, and Marie Sharp’s pepper sauce. Mountain biking and rock climbing are gaining popularity, and more routes are being built every year. But if you’re in the Maya Mountains, you want to spend your time trekking to waterfalls, exploring caves, and visiting Maya ruins.

Some of these adventures can be done on your own, but again, spring for a tour guide so you can fully comprehend the magnitude of what you’re seeing. Even if you’re not camping and you’re only exploring for a day, bring everything you need with you—snacks, extra layers, extra water. And try not to be the last car out of the parking lot; the roads in the mountains are remote and rough, so if you break down, you want there to be one more car coming behind you to help. Otherwise you can expect to be spending the night.

What to Do

Explore Caracol

is a massive Maya city that’s now protected by Chiquibul National Park, the country’s largest, with multiple structures ranging from the foundational walls of “suburban” neighborhoods to towering temples. The ruins are not as famous as Tikal, in Guatemala, but it rivals its cousin in size and historical significance. In fact, the two cities would often battle each other, and toward the end of the Classic Period (250 to 900 A.D.), Caracol conquered Tikal and was the capital of the civilization in the region. The Maya flourished during this time, domesticating corn and erecting buildings with stone walls. Caracol supported up to 150,000 people, which is bigger than modern-day Belize City. The central structure of Cana, which translates to “sky place,” is still the tallest manmade structure in the country.

Hiking through the site doesn’t require putting in many miles, but access to the structures is essentially unchecked—nothing is technically off-limits. While you can climb the massive stone steps and learn about the Maya in a hands-on way, be sure to tread lightly. offers guided walking tours of the site that delve into its significance; a hot lunch of stewed chicken, rice, and beans is included (from $60 per person).

Hike and Swim the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve

This protects a rare pine forest atop 2,000-foot-tall mountains, but the real gems here are the rivers, which have carved tight gorges through granite and massive caves through limestone. is the easiest waterfall to get to, about 20 miles from San Ignacio, and it’s worth a quick stop, but don’t spend too much time here, as it’s probably the least impressive feature in the area. Take the short but steep hike to , a 150-foot vertical drop surrounded by boulders to jump from. If you’re feeling brave, swim and climb your way a mile downriver, exploring chutes and cascades en route to Five Sister Falls, located below Gaia Riverlodge, where you can order a cocktail, or take the resort’s nature trail to the secluded pool at the base of the 20-foot twin Little Vaquero Falls.

Cave into Maya Culture

There are more than 400 known cave sites in Belize, 80 percent of which contain Maya artifacts. The most spectacular of them all has to be the (ATM), which requires a semi-technical descent more than a mile underground. It’s like canyoneering into the center of the earth. After a river crossing and a hike through the rainforest, you’ll swim into the mouth of the cave, then wade through channels, squeeze through narrow hallways, climb rock slabs, and spot the remnants of pottery and human remains dating from 300 to 900 A.D., all of which were used as sacrifices to the gods.

As you travel deeper, you can see how the Maya became more desperate as they lived through a two-century-long drought, moving from a culture that gave thanks to the gods with food and pottery to a culture that pleaded with the gods with human sacrifices. Only guided parties can enter the ATM cave, and local guides receive special certification to ensure the cultural heritage of the site is honored. Book in advance, as there are no guides on-site available for tours (from $100 per person).

Where to Stay

Gaia Riverlodge

The 16-cabana will put you in the heart of the mountains in a high-end thatch-roofed hut overlooking Provincial Creek and the Five Sisters Waterfall. Even better, on-site hiking trails lead to multiple other falls. If you’re lucky, Coco, the resort dog who has her own thatch-roofed hut, will follow you on adventures throughout the property. The food is top-notch, too. Ask for the banana jam with your breakfast; it changed my life. From $315.

Midas

If you want to stay in the middle of San Ignacio and have multiple restaurants and bars within walking distance, this has 40 well-appointed rooms and colorful cabanas surrounding a large pool. It also sits on 30 acres, with hiking and equestrian trails. From $196

San Miguel Campground

This drive-in is located in the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest, above Big Rock Falls and close to Privassion Creek. Make sure you bring everything with you, as it’s miles from the nearest town and there are no stores or visitor centers to stock up on provisions. Camping in Belize is all about self-sufficiency. From $30 per person

The Best Place to Eat and Drink

San Ignacio is busy and charming without feeling like a tourist destination. On Burns Avenue, a collection of bars and restaurants are popular with locals, Guatemalans that come across the border, and adventurous tourists. is a good place to look for traditional Belizean food (rice, beans, and stewed chicken or pork) but it also serves solid vegetarian options, like mixed veggie curry.

Southern Belize

This region is a tangle of lively coastal towns and beach bars, thriving wildlife preserves, pristine beaches, lesser traveled Maya sites, and active Garifuna culture. For the most part, it’s not as busy as western Belize and there are still vast tracts of jungle and forest that tourists and even most locals visit, particularly in the southernmost tip of the country.

What to Do

Explore Hummingbird Highway

The Hummingbird Highway, running 55 miles between the capital of Belmopan and coastal town of Dangriga, is hands down the prettiest road in the country. It’s flanked by the occasional orange grove and small village, which give way to steep slopes on either side of the road covered with palm-leaf forests. Most people drive the highway, but its length, hilly nature, and scenery beg to be cycled. You can rent basic-level bikes in the towns of Hopkins and Placencia (think: cruisers and older mountain bikes), but don’t expect top-end equipment. If you want to pedal Hummingbird Highway (or anywhere in Belize), it’s best to bring your own rig with you.

Whether you’re driving or cycling, make a pit stop at , a 1,600-acre tropical forest at milepost 17 where you can take a 20-minute hike to a waterfall with a swimming hole that’s tucked inside a limestone gorge plastered with moss, ferns, and palms. Après at , a red and white roadside stand that has what might be the best tamale in the nation. Get there early before its spicy chicken tamale sells out.

Look for Jaguars

The is the only one of its kind in the world, a 128,000-acre oasis of mountains and rivers set aside specifically for the protection of the big cat. Much like the rest of North and Central America, hunters have done a number on the species in Belize. As other countries made hunting them illegal throughout the 20th century, wealthy hunters could still travel here and pay up to $25,000 for the shot. Needless to say, populations were dwindling when the preserve was officially recognized in 1986. Today more than 100 live within the preserve, many of which grow to 200 pounds, thanks to a steady diet of armadillos. Sightings of the jaguars here are still rare, however (the animal is notoriously elusive), so you don’t need a guide. are well marked and extend from a staffed visitor center into the low-lying rainforest surrounding the wide, meandering South Stann Creek. This rich biodiversity is as much the draw as the chance of spotting a big cat.

Sign up for a trip with , and you’ll get the lowdown on local flora and fauna from a guide who makes a habit of poking sticks into holes until something cool crawls out (it’s usually tarantulas the size of your hand). The operator also runs mini-canyoneering adventures that will have you jumping off of waterfalls through a tight, limestone gorge, followed by a mellow float by tube along the South Stann Creek River. Even better, hike the preserve at night, from 6 P.M. to midnight, and you’ll get to see the forest come alive with snakes, spiders, and (fingers crossed) jaguars.

Boat the Monkey River

The howler monkey is a cartoonish creature, big and loud, and can be found hiding in the jungle canopy. Your best bet for seeing these primates is by taking a boat up the Monkey River, an hour and a half south of Placencia, off of the Southern Highway. The journey starts at the mouth of the river as it dumps into the Caribbean at the small hub of Monkey River Village.

Head with a (from $90 a person, minimum four people) on a small powerboat into mangrove forests filled with manatees, crocodiles, giant iguanas, and toucans. Deeper in the jungle, a short hike will bring you to an area where howler monkeys thrive. They live in tribes and are prone to howling at each other when one tribe encroaches on the territory of another, but they’re not aggressive, even though their call sounds like the scream of a dinosaur. The worst thing they’ll do to you is pee or poop on you. Seriously, don’t let them pee or poop on you.

Where to Stay

Belizean Nirvana

This two-story has rooms on the water, each with its own share of Caribbean-facing beachfront. It’s located in Placencia, a funky village at the end of a peninsula with luxury resorts, expat retirement communities, and restaurants and bars where you’re likely to see as many locals as tourists. Get a first-floor room and you’ll have a porch that spreads out into the sand. The beach is stunning, a narrow strip of sand dotted with coconut trees, with a mellow bay on one side and small resorts and lively bars and restaurants on the other. The heart of the village is a pedestrian-only street lined with beachfront dining and drinking establishments. From $150

Detours

You’ll find Garifuna culture throughout the coastal towns of southern Belize, but Dangriga is the epicenter, home to regular festivals, museums, and drum-making shops. Check out the Ěýto learn about the history of the people and their contributions to today’s vibrant cultural community, and step into the to try your hand at working the instruments, made from mahogany and deerskin.

If you’re looking for seafood and elevated cocktails, , a rooftop restaurant at the top of a boutique hotel in Placencia has the best of both. Order the Seafood Sere, a Garifuna chowder served with coconut rice and plantain chips.

The Cayes

Belize is absolutely lousy with islands. These act as exclamation points along the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second-largest reef system in the world and one of the healthiest of its size. Yes, the Great Blue Hole is here—a seemingly bottomless pit that you can dive into, paddle around, or fly over during a scenic tour—but there is so much more to this area than diving into a hole.

Sandy beaches are rare here, but they do exist if you know where to look. The ironically named “Secret Beach” on Ambergris Caye is the most popular, boasting restaurants and thatch-roofed picnic tables jutting out of the water. There’s world-class snorkeling and diving everywhere, some of the most productive saltwater fly-fishing in the world, and paddling options that range from easy two-hour spins to multiday bucket-list adventures.

Local airlines Maya Air and Tropic Air operate regular puddle jumpers making trips from the mainland to Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, the two busiest cayes off the coast. There are also regular ferries that connect the major islands, and you can hire boats and guides to take you to smaller, more remote islands along the reef.

What to Do

Swim with Sharks

OK, they’re nurse sharks, and they’re more harmless than the fish that follow them around feeding on their scraps, but they’re still sharks. And they can get quite big (a nine-footer swam beneath my feet while I was in the water). The sharks like to hang out in a break in the reef system dubbed Shark Ray Alley in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. to the reef (from $55 per person for a half day), which includes a stop at Shark Ray Alley. Sure, the snorkeling is amazing and you’ll get to see all kinds of species, but come on… sharks. That’s the story you’ll tell when you get back home, not the parrotfish you saw.

Paddle the Islands

The breadth of the barrier reef and the sheer volume of islands that stretch across it make Belize an open-water paddler’s dream. A variety of experiences exist here, from casual half-day excursions within eyesight of high-end resorts to multiday adventures that will have you camping on primitive islands.

Caye Caulker, a 10-minute flight or 45-minute ferry from Belize City, is a great spot for beginners. The island is divided into two sections by a narrow channel, with most of the development existing on the southern side, while the northern side is occupied by a dense mangrove forest. rents boards and windsurfing kits (from $50 an hour) and guided tours if you don’t want to go it alone (from $100 per person).

If you’re an experienced paddler looking for a big adventure, will rent you expedition-ready gear and give you maps with suggestions for routes along the southern cayes for self-guided trips (from $40 a day or $375 for a week). The outfitter also offers a that starts with three days of guided paddling and lodging, then four days of self-guided paddling at the Glover’s Reef Atoll, a Unesco-designated World Heritage site that covers 80 square miles of reef, islands, and open water. You can spend a few days at its base camp learning key skills, then break out on your own for a few days to practice what you learned. also offers fully guided seven-day paddleboard trips throughout the same terrain. Instead of camping, you’ll stay at various lodges (from $2,875).

Fish for the Big Three

You can find world-class fishing all along the coast, and most anglers show up with their fly rods in hopes of snagging a Grand Slam, which entails catching a bonefish, tarpon, and permit in a single day. There probably isn’t a bad place to fish along Belize’s portion of the Mesoamerican Reef, but the country’s atolls have become hot spots. Turneffe Atoll, the largest of the ringed reefs, casts a halo that’s 30 miles long and 10 miles wide.

More than 150 islands along the reef serve as launching points for the lagoon, which encompasses a shocking variety of ecosystems, from expansive mangrove and seagrass habitat to saltwater flats and creeks to vibrant reef structures. Turneffe is just 20 miles off the coast, south of Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye, so the fish do receive some pressure. If you’d prefer an area that receives less attention, head farther south to the expansive , the largest of Belize’s eight protected marine reserves, much of which consists of shallow saltwater flats. Local anglers have dubbed the South Water Caye “permit alley,” due to an abundance of the highly sought-after species.

The Big Three are all catch-and-release only. You’ll be able to land bonefish year-round, so timing isn’t as important for that species, but permit are hungriest in spring and summer and tarpon pass through in summer. In addition to the Big Three, you’ll have the chance to cast for jack, snapper, and triggerfish. Hire a local guide service like , one of the most storied in Belize (and the only Orvis-endorsed outfitter in the country), to increase your chances of success. Half-day and full-day trips depart from Hopkins or Placencia (from $591).

Where to Stay

Victoria House

If you’re looking to treat yourself, book one of the thatch-roofed villas at , some which have their own private pool and all of which overlook a sandy beach with tall palms. The location on Ambergris Caye is ideal if you’re looking to explore the Hol Chan Marine Preserve, and in-house guides can take you on a variety of adventures. The restaurant is top-notch as well, especially its rotating selection of ceviche (get the tuna with watermelon if it’s on the menu). From $225

Glover’s Atoll Resort

This sits on Northeast Caye, a big, sandy island on the edge of the Glover’s Reef Atoll. Its variety of inexpensive accommodations range from hostel-style bunks and individual huts built on stilts to campsites beneath coconut palms. You can cook your own meals or eat in the restaurant. Accommodations are basic yet charming, but you’re here for the location—snorkeling, fishing, and paddling starts right on the edge of the island. Camping from $10, cabins from $30

Thatch Caye Resort

Occupying the shorefront of a private island 30 minutes off the coast of Dangriga, hosts just 30 guests at a time. Stays include meals, all beverages, and adventure gear. Choose from an oceanfront cabana or an over-the-water bungalow. From $500 a night for two guests

Where to Eat and Drink

Yeah, you’re in the islands and you’re probably craving seafood, but take a break from the conch and spend one dinner at , in the heart of Ambergris Caye’s bustling San Pedro, where everything is cooked in the traditional Belizean way over an open fire. Don’t worry, there’s actually quite a bit of fresh fish on the menu, but don’t overlook the pork stew or chicken kebabs.

How to Be a Conscious Visitor

Go Local

The majority of the guides you’ll encounter here were born and raised in Belize, making it easy to pass an entire trip with local experts. The Belize Tourism Board curates a list of gold-standard guides and hotels that follow new safety and health protocols. Follow the same principles for tipping as you would at home.

Tread Lightly

The barrier reef is a living thing that’s under constant pressure from humans. Be sure to pack non-nano zinc sunscreen without extra chemicals, like Thinksport, as you’ll have a hard time finding it here. Don’t touch or stand on the reef—ever—and no matter how friendly a fish or turtle looks, don’t try to get close to them. Even hovering over a turtle is a disruption.

Eat Sustainably

It’s never been more important to know where the fish you’re eating comes from. Belize is going to great lengths to help preserve the various populations within its waters, limiting commercial operations and certain harmful practices. Check out to learn what species you should seek out and which to avoid, and consult its list of restaurants that source only from local fishermen who follow sustainable practices.

Graham Averill is a longtime contributor to şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine and our national-parks columnist.

The post The Ultimate Belize Travel Guide appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

Staying inside has us all dreaming of wide-open spaces. What better way to satisfy that desireĚýthan by planning a future ocean adventure? And asĚýall of us waitĚýto reconnect with our loved ones, these seabound journeys offer a great way to come together once we’re able to travel again. Whether by kayak, sailboat, or yacht, here are nine itineraries to start planning for now.Ěý

Go by Sea Kayak

For a warm-weather trip, head south to Baja, Mexico, whereĚý has a new seven-day paddling itinerary (from $3,295) around Isla EspĂ­ritu Santo, a national marine park off the coast of La Paz in the Sea of Cortez. ItsĚýJanuary and April 2021 toursĚýinclude stops for reef snorkeling with sea turtles, hikes to the highest point on the island, and swimming with friendly whale sharks. If you’d prefer to do the trip yourself, book one of eight safari-style tents at the island’s Ěý(from $375 for two nights), locatedĚýrightĚýon the beach. Your stay starts with a boat pickup in La Paz and includes the company of a naturalist guide on your kayaking, snorkeling, hiking, or bird-watching excursions. The camp is open from November to June.Ěý

Many paddlers will have heard of the Maine Island Trail, a 375-mile route that passes some 200 islands along the state’s coastĚýfrom Casco to Machias Bay. While many of the islands are public, join the (from $45) in advance for access to 50Ěýprivately owned sites. If you have a few days, base out of the 271-site , setĚýon a 255-acre peninsula at the southern end of Phippsburg, an hour’s drive northeast ofĚýPortland. Or book a trip with , which leads overnight trips (from $349)Ěýranging from two to four days, with camping on remote islands or stays in boutique inns.

For advanced kayakers, the 100-mile paddle along Alaska’s Prince William Sound counts as a bucket-list trip. Enter the water at Whittier, a harbor town 60 miles southeast of Anchorage, where a number of rental shops offer fiberglass doubles, drysuits, and maps of camping spots along the sound (from $185 for two days fromĚý). Give yourself 10 to 14 days for the trip; the amount of time it takesĚýwillĚýdepend on the area’s temperate-rainforest conditions, which can shift from calm to stormy in a matter of minutes.ĚýAllot a few daysĚýin Columbia Bay, home to one of the state’s largest tidewater glaciers. Or sign up for a six-day paddling trip next year with (from $1,429), which runĚýfrom May through September. The tours start in Valdez and headĚýto Prince William Sound and the Columbia Glacier. You’ll camp on islands and spot sea lion colonies, icebergs, and orcas along the way.

Go by Sailboat

While there are many ideal ways to experience Iceland, including via its one of its long-distance treks, seeing the country from the water offers a better vantage of its glaciers, iceberg-filled lagoons, and black-sand coastlines. Book a trip for 2021 on theĚý (from six days for $2,606), a 60-foot sloop that sleeps up to 12 and departs from the harbor town of Isafjordur, a 40-minute flight from ReykjavĂ­k, with a captain named Siggi or Ă“li at the helm. You’ll sail into the remote fjords of the roadless Ěýand, depending on the time of year, enjoy backcountry skiing, trail running, or sea kayaking on excursions to shore.Ěý

If you want to learn to sail, theĚýĚýleads an adult 14-day sailing course (from $5,490) from Nelson, New Zealand, on the country’s rugged South Island, where you’ll learn how to operate 35-foot keelboats through the Marlborough Sounds, an extensive network of submerged valleys. Every day will have you taking on a different role in the boat and focusing on a new skill, including navigation and overboard drills. It’s also a greatĚýway to study the country’s history—much of itĚýbuilt upon a seafaring past—with stops at important Maori sites.Ěý

For a trip a little closer to home, head to Maui—its hard-to-access shoreline means the best way to see the island is from the ocean. The coast is known for its 30 different trade winds, which haveĚýkept local operators from renting sailboats, but there are plenty of charter options available at every price point. departs from LahainaĚýon five-hour sailing trips (from $109), complete with snorkeling or scuba diving through the .Ěý

Go by Yacht

You want to cruise the open seas but would rather avoid being on a giant ship with hundreds of other people. We understand. These small expedition ships are designed for adventure travelers looking to explore less traveled ocean nooks that the bigger boats can’t get to.

Canada’sĚý, 50 miles south of Vancouver, British Columbia, is home to hundreds of tiny islands scattered throughout the Salish Sea. To visit the area, start in the provincial capital of Victoria, where you’ll boardĚý’ 88-foot converted tugboat for a five-day cruise (from $2,267). The boutique outfitter’s permits and agreements with First Nations mean exclusive access to sites that are off-limits to larger operators, and the crew of five, which includes a naturalist and a chef, are all from the region. The boat features six private cabins with full bathrooms, four kayaks, and a hot tub.

Island-hop through Indonesia onĚý’ 15-to-21-day small-ship cruises (from $8,535). Start in Darwin, Australia, and set off on a 120-passenger expedition vessel en route to some of Indonesia’s less visited isles, where you’ll hike in search of Komodo dragons, snorkel in , and visit local villages. Or, for a once-in-a-lifetime splurge, sign up for a trip aboard the , a 167-foot traditional phinisi-style yacht that hosts up to 14 guests with 18 crew members (a dive instructor and chef included). The custom itinerary includes surfing Sumbawa’s uncrowded waves, diving in Raja Ampat’s pristine reefs, and kayaking across crater lakes (from $16,000 a day).Ěý

If you’re a scuba diver, head to the 20-cabin Ěýin Kimbe, Papua New Guinea, then board the newly renovated , an 89-foot catamaran that calls the resort home. From September to November and April to June, the 16-passengerĚýship charters eight-day trips (from $3,810) to the island’s most popular diving areas, including Kimbe Bay, the Witu Islands, and Fathers Reefs, which are known for their crystal-clear waters, barrier reefs, and World War II shipwrecks.Ěý

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Surf Uncrowded BreaksĚýOn Costa Rica’s Caribbean Side

Costa RicaĚýhas become one of the world’s most popular surf destinations, and with that status have come concerns that the country could lose its pura vida vibe. The once sleepy towns of Tamarindo, Nosara, and Santa Teresa are on surfers’ radars, and on the Pacific coast in Pavones—which boasts the second-longest left break in the world—the waves are often packed. But you should still go, and consider the less visited Caribbean side. In the small coastal town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, four hours southeast of San JosĂ©, you’ll find 50 miles of white-sand beaches, coral reefs, and waves for every skill level. The main draw is Salsa Brava, a heavy, barreling reef break reminiscent of Oahu’s North Shore. But Playa Negra is perfect for foam-top-riding newbies, and Punta Uva for intermediates craving easy rides without drama. Those who want to test the waters before trying out Salsa Brava can hire a boat in LimĂłn to reach Uvita Island, a punchy reef break.

Stay at the year-old Hotel on Playa Chiquita (from $290, breakfast included). The vision of Costa Rican artist Elizabeth Steinvorth and her daughter Elena Rohrmoser, it has six suites and six bungalows perched in tropical gardens, a restaurant, and bars and nightclubs nearby. Given the area’s rainforest, you’ll have no shortage of options if the surf’s not up. Kayak or SUP the Punta Uva River in search of monkeys and toucans, or get close to sloths and wildcats on a walk at the Jaguar Rescue Center. Cahuita National Park is a 30-minute drive from the hotel and laced with well-marked hiking trails that lead to snorkeling spots rich with marine life. From May to October, you’re likely to glimpse leatherback turtles hatching on the beaches. —Jen Murphy

Detour: New şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Bases

Kasiiya Papagayo

This Ěýon Costa Rica’s northern Pacific coastĚýis set on 123 acres of untouched jungle, with trails that lead to two empty beaches. Between the wildlife view­ing (howler monkeys in the trees, eagle rays and turtles in the sea) and five palatial tented suites, Kasiiya rivals the most over-the-top African safari stays. (From $615)

SendaĚýMonteverde Hotel

If spotting a jewel-toned quetzal and two-toed sloths are on your wish list, then , three hours northwest of San JosĂ©, is a dream base. A hanging bridge connects the property to Aguti Wildlife Reserve,Ěýor drive 15 minutes to Monteverde Cloud ForestĚýReserve, whichĚýis home to more than 400 species of birds, 2,500 plants, and jaguars. (From $260)

Hotel Nantipa

The project of three Costa Rican friends, this is steps from some of Santa Teresa’s best surf breaks. If you aren’t a surfer, swap your sandals for hiking boots and explore nearby Monte­zuma Waterfalls and Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve. (From $320)

Shred New TrailsĚýAcross Baja’s Sierra Cacachilas

When it comes to Baja, most people think humpback whales, monster Pacific swells, and jalapeño-spiced margaritas sipped on empty beaches. Now mountain bikers eager to escape winter can add their own fantasy: cycling an expanding system of singletrack at , a solar-powered adventure resort with access to 34,600 acres in the Sierra Cacachilas between La Paz and kiteboarding hub La Ventana. Since 2014, an International Mountain Biking Association–trained, 15-person crew has been building what will eventually be 43 miles of singletrack on the ranch, with an eye toward erosion control and water management, which means the trails won’t be washed away in the next flash flood.

Twenty-five miles are complete, giving intermediate and advanced riders a few days’ worth of exploration in a trail system that feels like an arid Fruita, Colorado, with saguaro cactus and killer ocean views. The ten-mile Sky Trail will be finished in June and peaks at a summit that overlooks the sea before spilling into a giggle-out-loud downhill. Rancho Cacachilas also offers hiking and bird-watching, as well as on-site workshops in cheesemaking and seed storage. Or just kick back by the pool with a cocktail and take in the expansive view of Cerralvo Island in the Sea of Cortez.Ěý—Stephanie Pearson

Access andĚýResources

Where to stay: With a direct line to the trails, Rancho Cacachilas’s rustic main lodging area Chivato has eight safari-style glamping tents and four rooms, plus outdoor showers and a small pool overlooking the sea. The minimum stay is two nights (from $175), which includes ac­commodations, food, and activities. The ranch is open from October 1 to May 31.

Other activities: For a change of pace, guests can sign up for ROW şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs’ eight-day Sea to Mountains şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř, which involves four days of sea-kayaking the wildlife-rich waters near EspĂ­ritu Santo Island, followed by four nights at the ranch (from $2,040). Or take a six-hour camp ($399) or two-hour private lesson (from $190) with Evolution Kiteboarding in nearby La Ventana.

Need to know: Don’t bother renting a car—shuttle buses are available from Los Cabos Airport to La Paz; from there, guests catch a private shuttle to the ranch. The Mountain and Bike Hub, an on-site rental and repair shop, offers high-performance dual-suspension rides (from $46 for four hours).

SnorkelĚýand Dive the SpringsĚýof Northern Florida

As an aquatic wonder, FloridaĚýis overlooked. Some 700 freshwater springs fed by mineral-rich aquifers bubble up from the limestone sponge the state sits on. From ground-level pools that reach down 100 feet to caverns created by sinkholes, these crystalline lagoons look like a cross between a Yucatán cenote and a Caribbean reef. And at a constant 72 degrees, they’re always the ideal temperature for snorkeling and diving. The small northern outlets of Branford, Fort White, Mayo, and Old Town are prime places to start exploring, due to their close proximity to the springs and to places to stay.

An hour and a half west of Jacksonville, 2,669-acre Ichetucknee Springs State Park is a great entry point, with bream-filled cerulean pools and a diveable open-­ceiling cavern called Blue Hole. Thirty minutes west of Ichetucknee, less visited Troy Spring State Park features a sunken paddle-wheel riverboat, scuttled by Confederates as Union soldiers advanced in 1863, that makes for a good wreck-diving site. The park’s main pool, a 70-foot-deep cavern, is shaped like a funnel, with limestone formations that resemble brain coral. A dive here usually attracts hundreds of yellow-bellied slider turtles that swirl around you.

Ginnie Springs, a 35-minute drive southeast from Troy Spring, has a series of seven aquamarine pools along a two-mile trail that runs parallel to the Santa Fe River, filled with large gar, bass, and turtles. Plan a full day to snorkel or dive the springs. For technical divers, there’s also the Devil’s Spring system, with more than 30,000 feet of underground tunnels. Forty miles south, Devil’s Den Spring and nearby Blue Grotto, in the town of Williston, attract scuba and cave-certified divers, respectively, who come to explore the ancient fossil beds. Devil’s Den is a naturally lit underground pool, while Blue Grotto is 100 feet deep and has a passage to a 300-yard-long chamber. —Tony D’Souza

Where to Stay

Ěý(from $20) is a mile from the park’s northern entrance, but consider a 20-minute drive to stay at Ěý(from $100) south of Branford. There are three cabins and a three-bedroom farmhouse on-site; book Earl Cabin, a cyprus-clad 19th-century shotgun house. Snorkeling gear is sold at the general store near the south entrance, but you’ll need to bring your own diving equipment.

Primitive camping sites (from $23) dot 200-acre Ginnie Springs, many of them along the Santa Fe River. The three-bedroom Ěý(from $175) is also located in the park and has a large deck and a fully equipped kitchen. The park’s dive center rents equipment.

In the historic Old Florida town of Micanopy, 20 minutes south of Gainesville, the 11-room, two-cottage Ěý(from $125) makes a great base for divers headed to Blue Grotto and Devil’s Den Spring. Both sites offer full gear rental.

Land Some of the Caribbean’s Most Evasive Fish in Belize

The small fishing town of Punta Gorda in southern BelizeĚýoffers some of the most elusive catches on a fly. At theĚýedge of Port Honduras Marine Reserve, the area’s flats have a thriving population of permit, as well as big schools of bonefish and tarpon. Better yet, Punta Gorda, a 50-minute turboprop flight south from Belize City, still feels undiscovered. For more than 15 years, the Garbutt brothers—Dennis, Eworth, Oliver, and Scully—have been slowly putting the town on the map. Former commercial fishermen, the brothers now run a sportfishing charter company, dive outfit, and three-cabin lodge overlooking Joe Taylor Creek, from which their boats depart (from $1,340 for three nights).

The day starts with a breakfast burrito as you motor to spots chosen by the Garbutts—sometimes a small island in the Gulf of Honduras, some­times coastal marshes, depending on tides and wind. Aboard a 23-foot super-panga with casting decks and poling platforms, your guides will propel the skiff into the shallows while searching for fish. Along the way, it’s common to spot manatees, lemon sharks, and dolphins. The brothers also have exclusive access to Lime Caye, a shallow flat 40 miles east of Punta Gorda known for its bonefish, permit, and diving sites. —Chris Santella

Where to stay: If the three cabins at Ěýare booked, Ěý(from $179) has 16 spacious suites and a three-bedroom villa overlooking a 12,000-acre nature reserve. The hotel transports you by car to a nearby dock that the Garbutt brothers use to pick up anglers and divers.

Other activities: There are plenty of nonfishing adventures. At the southern edge of the Belize Barrier Reef, 36 miles east of Punta Gorda, snorkel or dive with manta rays, sea turtles, and, from March to June, whale sharks at Sapodillas Cayes Marine Reserve. The well-preserved Lubaantun ruins, a 19-mile drive from Punta Gorda, date back to 730 A.D. After, cool off with a swim in Hokeb Ha Cave about ten miles southwest.

When to go: December through April is high season in Belize, with clear skies and temperatures around 80 degrees. Permit and most fish species are present all year.

What to bring: While the Garbutt brothers have a few rods to loan, most anglers bring a nine- or ten-weight and floating line. Bauer and raghead crabs are popular flies.

Hike an Entire Island Along Dominica’s WaitukubuliĚýNational Trail

This volcanic island between Martinique and Guadeloupe was well on its way to becoming the Caribbean’s top adventure destination when Hurricane Maria hit in 2017. Many of its neighbors are focused on rebuilding as quickly as possible, but DominicaĚýis working toward a different goal. Following the hurricane, prime minister Roosevelt Skerrit pledged to make the small country of 73,000 the world’s first climate-resilient nation. In the past few months, long-awaited eco-hotels like Ěýand Ěýopened, and the country’s biggest draw, the 115-mile Waitukubuli National Trail, is expected to be complete by the spring, with final clearing efforts by volunteers, the government, and the private sector.

The entire length can be broken up into day hikes ranging from four to 11.2 miles, each showcasing a different aspect of Dominica’s dramatic topography. The first segment (4.7 miles) begins in Scotts Head Village, at the island’s southwestern tip, and traverses a wildlife-rich volcanic area and a series of hot sulphur springs. The trail culminates in the seaside village of Soufrière, where you can snorkel Soufrière–Scotts Head Marine Reserve, a bay filled with underwater fumaroles and colorful reefs. On segment four, a challenging eight-mile rainforest route, you’ll hit lookouts with views of five of the island’s peaks and traverse a deep gorge in the heart of Morne Trois Pitons National Park, home to the famous Boiling Lake, set in a lunar landscape.

Follow that with segment ten, a 4.3-mile meander through a forest that connects to the Syndicate Nature Trail. Join the island’s chief ornithologist, Bertrand “Dr. Birdy” Jno Baptiste, for a one-mile-loop detour to spot parrots endemic to the island, like the red-necked Amazon, or jaco, and the Imperial Amazon, or sisserou. Even if the rarest birds stay hidden, Dr. Birdy will make sure you spot at least a few dozen of the island’sĚý167 species. —

Detour:ĚýNew Eco-Lodges

Jungle Bay

After being destroyed in 2015 by Tropical Storm Erika, , a boutique wellness resort overlooking Soufrière–Scotts Head Marine Reserve, reopened in June. Run by a Dominican couple leading the charge on sustainable practices, the lodge uses solar energy (emitting 30 percent less carbon than traditional resorts) and has 30 eco-villas with bamboo furnishings and biodegradable bathroom products. The Waitukubuli National Trail is just an eight-minute drive south. (From $294)

Cabrits Resort and Spa Kempinski

Set adjacent to Cabrits National Park, this opened in October with two dining options and four swimming pools. The hotel gets an estimated 60 percent of its food from local farmers and fishermen, and it uses solar energy and a gray-water treatment system, diverting waste water to irrigation. Nearby, you can visit some of the island’s most spectacular beaches, SUP or snorkel crystal-clear Toucari Bay, and access Waitukubuli National Trail’s segment 12. (From $370)

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More than 75 percent of Baja’s 3.3 million residents live in the northern cities of Tijuana and Ensenada. Much of the rest of the 55,366-square-mile peninsula—surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west coast and the Gulf of California on the east coast—is wide-open space, an increasing amount of which is becoming preserved asĚýfederal lands, private reserves, and community projects. In totalĚýthere are more than 14 million acres of protected land and water, including seven national parks, like Sierra de San Pedro Mártir in northern Baja, where Picacho del Diablo, the peninsula’s highest peak, rises to 10,154 feet. The rocky hike to the top is rewarded with views of the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez. Mountain bikers can get in on ocean views, too, with an exponentially growing network of trails in the mountains surrounding La Paz, Todos Santos, and Los Cabos.

But Baja’s most celebrated feature is its 2,038 miles of jagged coastline, whichĚýcourts surfers, stand-up paddleboarders, sailors, scuba divers, snorkelers, paddlers, and anglers. Jacques Cousteau famously coined the Sea of Cortez, home to 800 varieties of fish, “the world’s aquarium.” Many of those species are protected in reserves like 27-square-mile on the southern tip of Baja. On the Pacific side, the new, nearly three-million-acre Ěýis a protective sanctuary for gray whales and sea turtles.

My first experience in Baja started in Tijuana with a fish-bowl sized margarita. It was 1988, and the city was festive and gritty. Its complexity intrigued me. A decade later, I hopped a flight to the pastel-hued 17th-century mission village of Loreto to find it full of Hawaiian-shirt-clad fishermen en route to compete in a tournament for dorado, marlin, and sailfish in the Sea of Cortez. I headed south to the solitude of a nine-room eco-resort (which has since closed) on a searing white-sand beach looking out on the mysterious, cacti-studded Isla Danzante.

Three years ago, my boyfriend and I rented a car to explore the southern tip of the peninsula, mountain-biking the foothills above Los Barriles, snorkeling with sea lions off Isla Espí‪ritu Santo, and eating whole grilled red snapper while sipping jalapeño margaritas at an under-the-radar restaurant on the edge of La Paz’s marina. Along the way, we found a wind-carved canyon pierced by sunlight above the Sea of Cortez and long stretches of empty Pacific white sand.

A few months agoĚýwe returned, going deeper into the peninsula, exploring a network of new mountain-bike trails, paddling the newly protected waters of the Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve, and meeting with a young entrepreneur, Adolfo de la Peña, in the old mining community of San Antonio, where he is trying to resurrect his historic community.ĚýAs quickly as things are changing in Baja, some of the best things remain the same, like that La Paz restaurant, where we returned to eat grilled red snapper. The fish was as exquisitely fresh as we remembered it.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Baja

Prepare for warm days and cold water: The Baja sun is hot, but the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean can be cold, so pack protective Buffs, hats,ĚýUPF 50, and quick-drying cover-ups. Also bring a solid pair of shoes beyond flip-flops—cactus spines are omnipresent, from the beaches to the mountain-bike trails.

Get supplemental car insurance: If you plan to drive your car into Baja, make sure it’s in prime working order. Pending how remote you plan to get,Ěýyou may not be able to find replacements parts if needed. For an idea of spare parts to bring along, visit All About Baja’sĚý. And be sure to buy a Mexican car-insurance policy asĚýU.S. plans don’t work south of the border. Get a quote fromĚý, a company that has been selling Mexican auto insurance since 1983, from one-day to one-year policies.

Or rent a car: If you aren’t driving down yourself, unless you plan to never leave a resort, you’ll want a car to explore. Note that the minimum age for car rental is 25 years old, but some companies accept drivers 21 and older with a valid driver’s license from another country and add a surcharge to the rental fee. American car-rental agencies like Hertz and Thrifty are ubiquitous at the Los Cabos airport—and be sure to buy the MexicanĚýrental insurance. According to Mexican law, uninsured drivers can be arrested and held for liable damages.

Drive only during the day: For three key reasons: there are wandering cows,Ěýthe roads are narrow with no shoulders, andĚýin the evening, there are a lot more big-rigĚýcargo trucks.

Find a less expensive flight across the border: Fly to San Diego, then take a 30-minute shuttle, Uber, or taxi to theĚýĚý(CBX) facilities, a 390-foot-long pedestrian skybridge that crosses from California into Mexico and goes directly to Tijuana International Airport. If you use the CBX service (from $16 one way, and an additional $12 one way if you use the CBX shuttle), there’s no need to enter Tijuana airport’s main departure lounge. You’ll pass through the CBX’s security and go directly to your gate. On a good day, it’s possible to reach your gate in about twenty minutes (though you should always allow for extra time pending high volume travel days and other factors). Domestic Mexican airlineĚý offers direct flights to Loreto, La Paz, and Los Cabos, and has direct flights to Loreto and La Paz.

Check travel advisories for the region: The Baja Peninsula is safer than most of mainland Mexico, but the situation is fluid, so keep an eye on U.S. State Department travel advisories.

Do your camping homework: Unlike the U.S., camping is not strictly regulated in Baja, which has its pros and cons. You can find yourself alone on a stretch of golden sand savoring the sunset of a lifetime, but there are also fewer amenities, like toilets and trash receptacles. The best places to camp are near small coastal towns and away from mega resort corridors, like Los Cabos. Read online forumsĚýand feel out the vibe of the place before staking the tent.

What’s the Best Time of Year to Visit Baja?

January to March is prime whale-watching season and the height of tourist visits.ĚýSummer is the best time to surf and brings temperatures that can soar into the nineties. Spring (May andĚýJune) and fall (October andĚýNovember) have more moderate temperatures—the seventiesĚýto eighties—and fewer crowds, but beware that the Pacific Ocean hurricane season runs mid-May through November. In the fall of 2019, the area around La Ventana was deluged with rain, which made the desert lush and greenĚýbut also leftĚýroads impassable in some places. The calmest water for sea kayakers can be hadĚýfrom October through early December,Ěýthe best time for kiteboarders and windsurfers is mid-October to early April,Ěýand anglers can try their luck year-round, depending on what theyĚýwant to catch.

Where to Go in Baja

We’ve separated the peninsula into four general regions and chosen the best adventures and activities to do in each, from drinking world-class wine in Baja Norte, the official designation of the northern half of the state, to surfing off Los Cabos, at the southernmost tip. Driving the entire 775-mile-long peninsula, as many Americans do annually with their dogs, tents, mountain bikes, surfboards, and SUPs, takes a solid week.

Baja NorteĚý

For a great starter Baja road trip, complete with surfing, hiking, canyoneering, kayaking, and an opportunity to redefine your notion of what constitutes Mexican food,Ěýtry this 346-mile loop, whichĚýstarts and ends in Tijuana, going through Valle de Guadalupe and its vineyards, the coastal city of Ensenada, and the little-known Constitution of 1857 National Park along the way. Add stuffing yourself with the world’s most authentic fish tacos, and you’ve got way more fun than you can fit into a five-day outing, the ideal amount of time for an introduction to this area. Or simply choose a couple of the destinations or adventures below.

Day 1: Cross the border from San Diego into Tijuana

Tijuana is experiencing a cultural renaissance, with cutting-edge architecture, colorful murals, and a spicy food scene. Enter into Mexico at Mercado Hidalgo, a plaza flapping with Mexican flags and brimming with piñatas, sombreros, and sweet dulces. Stop for lunch atĚý, a former vacant lot turned food-truck haven where creative eats like octopus-and-corn-fungus tacos go well with smoky cucumber margaritas. In the afternoon, meander the mural-and-graffiti-filled pasajes, or artistic corridors, of El Centro. Head to for a smooth cream ale, then on to for an explosion of traditional central-MexicoĚýflavors and classic Baja ingredients, like seafood, quail, and organic chicken.

Day 2: Head east to Tecate and then on to Valle de Guadalupe

From Tijuana, head east on Highway 2D for 36 miles to Tecate.ĚýStop at Ěýin Tecate,Ěýwhere the husband-wife owner-chefs have impressive culinary pedigrees. Order the chile- and garlic-infused tortilla soup, garnished with octopus. From Tecate, turn south on Mexico 3, and drive 46 miles to Valle de Guadalupe. The award-winning wines in this region are the handiwork of a little-known sect of Russian Christians who planted grapes when they immigrated here in 1905. In the past decade, the valley has become Mexico’s answer to Napa, with chic tasting rooms and sleek hotels with infinity pools. At , a relaxed restaurant within the exquisite hotel , local David Castro Hussong has created an organic oasis on 200 acres of vineyards, where the stark elegance enhances the surrounding arid landscape.

Day 3: Surf in Ensenada

A tranquilo fishing port 30 miles south of Valle de Guadalupe, the surf here stretches north and south of the city, with serious waves at beaches like La Fonda, El Pico, and Stacks. Gentler breaks are farther south, at Playa Hermosa. Stop in atĚý for rentals, lessons, or to watch owner Alfredo Jaro and his crew shape boards. About 45Ěýminutes south of the city, you’ll find , the second-largest marine geyser in the world. It’s a well-touristed spot, but it’s awe-inspiring to watch the salt water blow and is also a good way to scout the incredible coasteering options available alongside the rugged Pacific. Ensenada-basedĚýoffers canyoning, rappelling, hiking, kayaking, or a combination of all four in one day.

Day 4: Hike and seek wildlife in Constitution 1857 National Park

The Sierra de Juarez is 60 miles east of Ensenada on Mexico 3. An oasis for mule deer, bighorn sheep, cougars, coyotes, bobcats, and soaring falcons, the 12,380-acre forested park sits at about 5,000 feet and boasts high-alpine Hanson Lake. Hike Jeffrey Route, a two-mile loop from the visitor center. Along the path sits a representation of a Kumeyaay camp, the indigenous people who settled in what is now the southwestern U.S. and Mexico more than 12,000 years ago. Or hike to the top of Hanson Hill, the summit of which is almost 6,000 feet.

Day 5: Head back to Ensenada

Take advantage of the incredible array of fish and shrimp tacos sold at stands on nearly every Ensenada corner. They go well with the locally brewed Aguamala Astillero Imperial IPA. Tijuana is a 70-mile drive north on coast-hugging Mexico 1D.

Where to Stay in Baja NorteĚý

Tijuana:Ěý, a 14-room boutique hotel in the center of everything, with clean, modern lines, exposed brick walls, and beds so comfortable you can sleep off an all-nighter. Doubles from $55

Valle de Guadalupe: AtĚý, eight glass-and-wood suites surroundĚýa main living room, pool, and deckĚýand are so organically designed that you feel immersed in the surrounding landscape. Doubles from $438

Ensenada: There’s a good array of Airbnbs here, or book an ocean-view room at , an updated old-school resort hotelĚýwith clean and peaceful rooms. From $131

Camping: There are a few gated campgrounds, like Playa Saldamando, eight miles north of Ensenada. For a more private option, drive south of Ensenada, boot up Google Earth, zoom in, and find dirt tracks that lead to any empty remote coastline, where you can camp as long as you leave no trace.

Los Cabos andĚýTodos Santos

On the southern tip of Baja, you’ll find Los Cabos, a collective term for the townĚýof Cabo San Lucas, to the west; the 18th-century mission village of San JosĂ©Ěýdel Cabo, to the east; and the 20-mile corridor of sand and rock escarpments in between. Los Cabos deserves its rap as the hub forĚýtequila-slamming, scantily-clad spring breakers, largely because it’s easily accessed by Los Cabos International Airport. But the region still has gorgeous bones, like Cabo El Arco, the craggy rock arch that delineates where the Pacific ends and the Sea of Cortez begins, and, on the far east end of San JosĂ©Ěýdel Cabo, Estuary Beach, which is backed by a freshwater lagoon that harbors more than 350 species of vegetation and wildlife. In between are resorts for every budget, 11 major surf breaks, ample opportunities to watch whales or deep-sea fish for wahoo, marlin, and tuna, and culinary oases, likeĚý, a 25-acre organic working farm and an open-air restaurant in the foothills of Sierra de la Laguna. For those who prefer more solitude with their sand and waves, the laid-back village of Todos Santos is about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Mexico 19. Beware: many beaches in Los Cabos are often closed to swimming due to deep drop-offs near the shoreline that create dangerous riptides and currents, so heed the signs. The most swimmable spots are Medano Beach, in the heart of Cabo San Lucas; Chileno Beach, in the luxury hotel zone northeast of Cabo San Lucas (and it has lifeguards on duty); and Playa Acapulquito, or Old Man’s Beach, near San JosĂ©Ěýdel Cabo.

What to Do in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Find surf action for everyone in Los Cabos: From the hard-charging surfer to the adventurous family of five that wants the ultimate multisport ocean vacation, there’s something for everyone in Los Cabos. The string of breaks around Playa Costa Azul is the center of Los Cabos surf culture. Zippers, the rocky right-point break close to the beach, is home to the Los Cabos Open of Surf in June and has been part of the women’s and juniorĚýWorld Surf League pro tours for the past few years, while Old Man’s BeachĚýand Pescadito are favorites for longboarders and beginners.ĚýĚýoffers rentals, lessons, and expert guides who lead excursions to lesser known breaks.

See a humpback whale breach: It’s one of the most awe-inspiring phenomena in the animal kingdom. Whales begin migrating south to the Los Cabos region in the middle of November, birth their calves in late December and January, nurse them through March and April, then begin their migration north. During this generous six-month window, take a two-and-a-half-hour Zodiac tour withĚý (from $89). It’s led by a marine biologist and is the most exciting way to see the whales as safely for them—and for you—as possible.

Go deep-sea fishing: Los Cabos has been hit hard with the illegal harvesting of billfish, so it’s imperative that you do your research on the most ethical charter company before signing up for a day of deep-sea fishing. One of the most long-standing isĚý, which started operating in La Paz in 1978 and eventually migrated south to Los Cabos. In 1995, it was honored with a Lifetime Achievement Award for Conservation by the International Game Fish Association. Since thenĚýseveral of its captains have been recognized with the Billfish Foundation Award for most striped marlin released worldwide. The company charters everything from 22-foot skiffs to mega yachts (from $112).

Lose the crowds in Todos Santos: This beautifully preservedĚý18th-century mission village an hour north of Los Cabos isn’t exactly a secret, but it’s still a nice big resort antidote, with artisan shops, boutique hotels, and , mistakenly believed to be the inspiration for the famous 1976 Eagles song. Mountain bikers will want to stop in at , a full-service bike shop that rents current models and full-suspension mountain bikesĚýand can guide riders or point them in the direction of the area’s 30 miles of hand-built trails that roll over dunes and into the foothills and show off panoramic Pacific views.

While Todos Santos is near the Pacific, it’s not actually on the Pacific. Drive west of town, and almost any road will dead-end at a dune from which you can walk the seemingly endless stretch of golden sand known as La Cachora beach. Its water is so rough that surfers gravitate five miles north of town to La Pastora, a sandy beach with fun right breaks. You’ll need four-wheel drive to get there, but it’s worth it, especially since it’s also home to theĚý restaurant, named for the ephemeral feel and color on the inside of a wave. The restaurant’s mezcal margaritas and smoked tuna pâtĂ©, served right on the beach, are the perfect way to wind down a busy day.

South of Todos Santos is Pescadero, a reef break close to shore, and Cerritos, a sandy-bottom beach break with the most consistent surf in Baja Sur. Los Cerritos Surf Shop rents boards at the beach from sunrise to sunset.Ěý andĚý, in the small hamlet of El Pescadero, also offer surfboard rentals, in addition to lessons and excursions (including kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding). Fuel up for the morning with a cup or two of organic, honey-processed java and a veggie frittata with spicy Mexican salsa fromĚý, an outdoor cafĂ©Ěýnestled among mango trees.

Three species of endangered sea turtles nest on the beaches of Todos Santos from October through March: the olive ridley, black, and critically endangered leatherback. Help them out by volunteering withĚý, a nonprofit that needs people to care for hatchlings, relocate nests, clean up the beach, and guard the turtle sanctuary.

Where to Stay in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Airbnb and VRBOs are a ubiquitous option Los Cabos—Todos Santos alone offers more than 200 VRBO listings and endless Airbnb rentals, from canvas tents to palatial beachfront haciendas.

Todos Santos:ĚýAt the end of a dirt road on isolated Punta Lobos beach, 3.5 miles south of town, the newly opened, 32-room Ěýis a throwback to simpler times, where guests gather around a bonfire at night to sip cervezas. The on-site restaurant serves locally harvested bounty, from fish caught earlier in the day to herbs and greens pulled fromĚýnearby fields. From $270

Or check outĚý, which offers basic, clean eco-casitas, some with fully equipped kitchens, for their volunteers. From $60

Los Cabos:Ěý, a 12-room boutique hotel, is a surprisingly inexpensive and peaceful oasis in the heart of Cabo. It was founded by a cyclist who rode his bike the length of the Baja Peninsula and loved Los Cabos so much that he founded the property in 1996. The walled courtyard and trellised bougainvillea are welcome respites from the action outside. From $70

Another great option is theĚý, the first Montage property to open outside the U.S. This luxurious and intimate new resort fronts a sandy crescent beach on Santa Maria Bay, which protects swimmers and snorkelers from the riptides and waves. There’s a 40,000-square-foot spa, but lounging by the exquisite infinity pool is a meditation unto itself. From $825

The East Cape and La Paz

Long the haunt of sea-loving luminaries like John Steinbeck and Jacques Cousteau, Baja’s Sea of Cortez on the east coast is a marine biologist’s dream. It’s also a wind machine from mid-November to early March for kiteboarders and windsurfers. The less traveled East Cape stretches from the marina of San JosĂ©Ěýdel CaboĚýsome 90 miles north through Cabo Pulmo National Park to the gentrifying coastal villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana. Fifty miles farther north is La Paz; this city of 240,000 residents, with its hopping łľ˛ą±ô±đł¦Ăł˛Ô, or seaside promenade, is the jumping-off point for the 244 protectedĚýWorld Heritage site islands, the largest of which is Isla EspĂ­ritu Santo. Drive 221 miles farther north and you’ll find the 17th-century mission village of Loreto, the original point from which Jesuit priests set out to evangelize the peninsula, and San Ignacio Lagoon, the winter sanctuary of the eastern Pacific gray whale. The best way to access this part of the peninsula is to fly to San Diego, cross the border to the Tijuana airport, and book a flight directly to La Paz on a regional airline. The other option is to fly into Los Cabos International Airport and rent a car. Reliable shuttles like make multiple trips between the Los Cabos airport and La Paz daily.

What to Do in the East Cape and La Paz

Snorkeling and scuba diving at Cabo Pulmo National Marine Reserve: In the 1990s, local fishermen stopped commercial fishing to let the waters and reefs regenerate. Since then, the reefs have rebounded, biodiversity has increased more than fourfold, and every formerly endangered major species has rebounded. Experience the comeback by snorkeling with, owned by the descendents of Jesus Castro Fiol, a pearl diver who was born here in 1897 and was instrumental in creating the national marine reserve. The center’s two-and-a-half-hour tour (from $55) explores coral gardens and the sea life that lives in them. Go deeper withĚý, whose expert instructors offer diving at 14 sites, like the 45-foot deepĚýEl VencedorĚýwreck, and possible encounters with tiger and bull sharks at the coral reef La Esperanza (from $139).

Kiteboarding and windsurfing at Los Barriles and La Ventana: November through March, it’s not uncommon for “El Norte” to howl down the coastline at almost 30 miles per hour, which is why the fishing villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana, 50 miles farther north, come alive with wind fanatics in the winter months. Based in the beachsideĚý (from $140),Ěý is a one-stop shop for kiteboarding, windsurfing, stand-up paddling, freediving, mountain biking, and, now, foiling. The laid-back little enclave offers special foiling clinics from world-champion pros like Daniela Moroz, updated equipment rental, and a community of like-minded souls. La Ventana has a long beach with a natural arc that, thanks to the wind direction, ensures even beginners will eventually wash ashore. The hotel, restaurant, and surf schoolĚý is situated in the heart of the beach, which means instantaneous action when the wind blows. ItĚý–certified instruction for all levels, three-day camps, equipment rentals, or storage for surfers who bring their own gear.

Mountain biking at Rancho Cacachilas: Mountain bikers head to the hills atĚý, a solar-powered adventure resort that sprawls across 35,000 acres in the Sierra Cacachilas between La Ventana and La Paz. With 24 miles of existing and 43 miles of planned International Mountain Biking Association–sanctioned singletrack on the ranch, the riding is designed for all skill levels and and offers great ocean views. There’s also 37 miles of trails for running and hiking, and the ranch offers sustainability-oriented classes like beekeeping, artisan cheesemaking, seed storage, and water collection.

Sea kayaking and snorkeling: La Paz has a three-mile-long seaside promenade that makes for fun people watching during a sunset stroll after dinner atĚý, a low-key seafood restaurant tucked into the marina with tables in the sand. Spend a night in the city, then launch into the Sea of Cortez to kayak, snorkel amongĚýsea lions and whale sharks, and stretch out on the sand at one of many empty beaches.Ěý offers one-to-ten-day journeys from La Paz up to Loreto and over to the Pacific Ocean’s Magdalena Bay. Trips include everything from kayaking to whale-watching to hiking. To take a deep dive into outdoor leadership and personal communication skills, sign on to one ofĚý’s three Baja adult expeditions, an eight-day coed or women-only coastal sailing expedition, or a seven-day women’s sea-kayaking expedition.

Surfing: The waves onĚýthe Sea of Cortez are less consistent than the Pacific. Most breaks require a big south swell or a strong storm. If you hit the timing right, you’ll find a nice, lonely right break at Nine Palms Beach in Santa Elena Bay, about an hour east of San JosĂ©Ěýdel Cabo. BYO boards.

Hiking: This region of Baja has a rich human history that dates back at least 10,000 years. The aforementioned Sea Kayak şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs offers a five-day journey from Loreto to the Sierra de San Francisco, where guests hike to visit many of the thousands of Unesco World Heritage cave paintings of people, deer, snakes, birds, and even whales. Another great day hike between La Paz and La Ventana that offers an opportunity to interact with locals is the old, partially cobblestoned Camino Real de Santa Ana, the route miners used for 300 years to transport precious metals north to San Diego. Start at the Ěýin El Triunfo, then hike roughly five miles along the Camino to the town of San Antonio, where local Adolfo de la Peña, whose father was a miner, has started the the cooperative . You can book an appointment with Adolfo, who will guide you through the town’s mining history, complete with a hike to two nearby mines—one of which is underground—and the best local sites, including the home of Bertholita, who cooks visitors spicy empanadas and queso fresco, and a local art cooperative.

Where to Stay in the East Cape and La Paz

Cabo Pulmo:Ěý has various-sizeĚývillas and bungalows, all of them clean and colorful, some with full kitchens, and most within a few steps of the beach. From $89

La Ventana:Ěý has ten campsites and three RV sites for rent just 200 feet away from the beach, hot showers, and a washing machine. From $20

Rancho Cacachilas: , the rustic main lodging area at the ranch, has ten cabin tents in addition to six bunk rooms that sleep two people each, plus outdoor showers, composting toilets, and a central outdoor kitchen and gathering space. Or try Los Pisos, a ranch camp higher in the mountains that offers platform safari-style tents surrounding an outdoor kitchen. From $175 all-inclusive, minimum stay two nights; open October 1 to April 30

La Paz:Ěý, within a few blocks of the promenade, is a delightful jumping-off point for Sea of Cortez adventures, with breakfast by the pool, a third-floor terrace with views to La Paz Bay, clean rooms, and cruiser bike rentals for $10 per day. From $55Ěý

On the other end of the promenade, is located in the heart of La Paz’s historic district and within steps of chic new restaurants, like Marinera Poke and Seafood (try the gyozas del puerto and the pin-up margarita), and offers free breakfasts at a street-side cafĂ©Ěýnext door. From $73

How to Be Conscious in Baja

Go local: A common practice in Baja is for gringos to buy up rental properties, fishing charters, and yachts, then use them to provide under-the-table tourist services to other out-of-town “friends” without paying local taxes or using local guides. This depletes residents’ resources. Be sure any U.S-owned entities—from fishing guides to hacienda owners—are doing fair and honest business that benefits the locals by providing training and income and puts money back into the communities. Better yet, look for locally owned businesses and guides, like Adolfo de la Peña in San Antonio.

Speak the language: It’s always respectful to speak the language of the country you’re visiting, so study up on your rusty high school Spanish.

If camping, pack out what you pack in: Garbage collection isn’t always consistent, so keep it with you until you can find a place to properly dispose of it.

Be frugal with your water use: Baja Californians have the country’sĚýlowest availability of fresh water per inhabitant—785 cubic meters per year—when the MexicanĚý national average is 4,200, according to data from the National Institute of Statistics, Geography and Information Technology. The lack of water will become a serious issue soon, especially if resort development remains unchecked. Be conscientious of your usage, and choose lodging and outfitters who are as well.

See marine life and other wildlife in an ethical way: Baja is one of the only places in the world guests can get within close proximity to gray whales after they’ve birthed calves in the Sea of Cortez lagoons or humpback whales as they start to migrate north to cooler Pacific waters. The most ethical way to see these giants is with boat operators who give them wide berths and heed local rules, like obeying limits on the numbers of vessels allowed on the water at any given time.

Looped video (seen on the desktop version) by ianmcdonnell/Getty

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