Let me establish my tourist bona fides before we go any further. I am a 47-year-old white man who has lived in the suburbs for the vast majority of my existence. I have spent a grand total of one week camping. I consider emptying the dishwasher to be hard labor. I don’t know how to pitch a tent, build a lean-to, start a fire without matches or a lighter, or climb any rock higher than three feet tall. I am not hardy. The only other time that şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř asked me to write for them, it was to review bathrobes, which are generally not worn outside. I own both cargo shorts and a fanny pack.

Finally, I am an American. Nothing screams “tourist” more than being a big, stupid American.

And I am legion. The U.S. has a near-infinite supply of clueless tourists such as myself, much to the dismay of our National Park Service. Yellowstone, our most famous national park thanks to Kevin Costner, welcomes 4.5 million of us each year. Like all of our parks, Yellowstone takes in tourists not only for the revenue but to remind them that the physical country they reside in is a marvel well beyond their comprehension. As such, Yellowstone is set up to accommodate these hordes. And while park officials do their best to keep tourists in line, often literally, my kind still manage to do plenty of tourist shit. We . We get shitfaced and with animals ten times our size. And we hurt ourselves. According to NPS data, at least 74 people have died while visiting Yellowstone in the past 15 years. I could have been one of those people. I deserve to be one of those people.

This is why şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř sent me to the park just a few weeks ago, during one of the busiest times of the year. They wanted me to observe our most basic tourists in the wild. Maybe I’d even get to see one die. Or, even better for my editors, maybe I would die while I was there. Maybe I’d look down my nose at the tourists around me only to end up as wolf food myself. Like most other Yellowstone visitors, I was not trained for the outdoors, I relish doing shit that posted signs yell at me not to do, and I often daydream about fighting bears (and winning!). I find danger tempting, which isn’t a good thing given that I can no longer swim a single pool lap without taking a break. Are people like me responsible enough to visit one of our national treasures without breaking it? Do we, as a population, know how to do national parks?

There was only one way to find out: by going into the park and behaving like an idiot.

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America has more than 828 million acres of public lands, an incredible boon to adventurers in every state. This month, when the crowds flock to the major national parks, we’ve got our eye on trips to 13 public lands worthy of explorations that feel truly wild and free. From caving, canoeing, and camping to mountain biking, birding, and swimming, you can relish these areas without pressure or reservations.

Ansel Adams Wilderness

Location: Straddling the Great Western Divide of the Sierra Nevada, California

Why we chose it: When summertime crowds make a beeline for Yosemite Valley, serious hikers, anglers, and backpackers skip the more popular national park in favor of this 232,000-acre expanse of sky-high granite ridges, sparkling alpine lakes, and high-altitude meadows bursting with wildflowers.

Favorite adventures: I’m a massive fan of any trails leading toward the toothy spires of the Ritter Range, most of which lies within the Ansel Adams Wilderness, and this area boasts 350 miles of those trails. Looking for a workout to make your calves burn? Grab a permit and strike out on a seven-mile (each way) overnight trip to the serrated fins surrounding Minaret Lake, with a quick detour to marvel at Devils Postpile. Prefer a mellow afternoon stroll to an idyllic fishing spot? Motor up to Lake Thomas A. Edison for sweeping Sierra views and the hope of hooking some German brown trout.

Where to stay: If you’re driving up from the west, check out the quirky Mono Hot Springs Resort (open late May to early November), which boasts a restaurant serving buffalo and wild salmon, private soaking tubs, and a smattering of rustic 1930s-era cabins to rent (from $155). Most visitors stay in the eastern-side mountain mecca of Mammoth Lakes; try the Tamarack Lodge (from $99) or, if you’re feeling spendy, the elegant Westin Monache Resort (from $241). Alternatively, post up at the Forest Service campgrounds (from $28), usually open May through October and abutting phenomenal trails to Shadow Lake and equestrian-friendly Agnew Meadows.

Don’t miss: Go for the cheap and fantastic monster burritos at Latin Market Taqueria in Mammoth Lakes. —Emily Pennington

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For a lot of outdoorsy Americans, working for the National Park Service—whether as a ranger, an administrator, or one of their witty social media managers—is the dream. But according to a newly-released from the , the national parks might not be a dream job for applicants who value quality engagement and job satisfaction.

The group asked employees at agencies around the federal government questions based around three basic topics: Would they recommend their organization as a good place to work? How satisfied were they with their jobs? And how satisfied were they with their organization as a whole? The higher the agency’s engagement and satisfaction score, the more likely the employee intended to stay.

According to survey results, national parks ranked 371 out of 432 government agencies in 2022 – or in the bottom 15 percentile. Those numbers were essentially flat compared to 2021 and 2020 survey results.

Increasing employee morale at the NPS, which has suffered from under-resourcing for decades, has been a main objective of the agency’s director, . During his confirmation hearings in 2021, he : “The one thing I’ve always learned in leadership is it’s the people that are most important,” he added, “And therefore helping to improve the morale, listening to the staff, the long-term staff, and figuring out exactly what needs to be done to support them out in the field in order to be the good interpreters they are, to be able to take care of the parks in an appropriate way.” But despite this sentiment, many park employees seem to have one foot out the door.

The biggest employee complaints pointed to an unsatisfying salary, a poor work-life balance, and a lack of workplace commitment to diversity. The park service’s best score was for mission matching, which ranked 187 out of 410 agencies.

One potential contributing factor to low employee morale could relate to the number of staff members that the park service currently employs. Between 2000 and 2010, the park service employed about 16,000 individuals every year. Since then, the agency has seen a 25% decline (with the exception of a brief surge in 2021), employing about 12,000 employees over the past decade despite surging park visitation.

Between , Capitol Reef National Park lost 15% of its staff members at the same time that visitation doubled. Similarly, Bryce Canyon National Park lost 10% of its staff and saw a 136% increase in park visitation over the same period of time.

Even when the budget allows national parks to hire new employees, the hiring process often takes months. And the hiring pool seems to be shrinking with employee morale.

Dissatisfied employees also indicated frustration with recognition for their efforts, with that measure dropping 9 points below the previous year’s. Survey scores also ranked the park service a agencies when it came to “the level of respect employees have for senior leaders, satisfaction with the amount of information provided by management and perceptions about senior leaders’ honesty, integrity and ability to motivate employees.”

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Quinn Brett told her story to producer Paddy O’Connell for an episode of The Daily Rally podcast. It has been edited for length and clarity.

Right before I took that cam out, I remember saying to myself, I shouldn’t have done that. I fell twice the rope length, and hit the big cliff of El Capitan.

And then at some point I came to consciousness and I said, I can’t feel my legs.

I work for the National Park Service, and I’m an athlete. I was a professional rock climber, and now I am a disabled athlete. Primarily, hand cycling, water sports, and the Worm. I’m still really good at the Worm.

I spend my time trying to be outside as much as possible. I can move all day, every day, pretty excessively, maybe annoyingly. You spend time outside and then you earn the ice cream or the IPA.Ěý In high school I discovered rock climbing and I wanted to learn more about it, and really dove into it. After college, I moved here to Estes Park, Colorado, and met an amazing amount of people who were into rock climbing, and they mentored me upwards into the sport.

The mental aspect is huge. How to overcome fears, how to stay calm. El Capitan is one of the quintessential iconic features of Yosemite National Park. It is a 3000-foot tall cliff, and the Nose is a rock climb in the center. It’s like a little prow feature.

In October 2017, my girlfriends Josie, Libby and I climbed a route on El Capitan in a day, setting a speed record for females. My headspace was a little off. My personal romantic relationship wasn’t doing so hot, and we got news that a good friend, Hayden Kennedy, and his partner had died in an avalanche. It struck all of our hearts, and climbing is something that we also fall back on, perhaps to distract ourselves from hardship, and so we decided we would still go climbing.

I am leading with placing gear, to a feature called the Boot Flake. That’s about 1500 feet up, but maybe 100 feet below the Boot Flake is another feature called the Texas Flake. It’s a big piece of rock that sticks out separately away from the main cliff of El Capitan. So I was on top of Texas Flake, and set sail on granite slab and clipped all of these bolts. The space between my gear was getting further and further apart. I was maybe 20 or 30 or 40 feet up from that last bolt. I had a cam in the crack, but I took the cam out for some reason, which is unusual for my protocol. I usually have two cams in, and in my rushedness or distracted brain, I took the cam out.

I reached across to my right hip to grab another piece of gear, and at that exact time, my foot or my hands or both slipped out of the rock. I just remember granite whooshing before my eyes as I fell.

I hit that Texas Flake with my back and my shoulder. I was just laying in the rubble, and my climbing partner Josie immediately initiated a rescue. My T-12 vertebrae shattered outwardly and inwardly into my spinal cord. I think I had four or five broken ribs. I had some internal bleeding, a punctured lung. My right scapula looks like a sledgehammer hit it. Fourteen staples in the back of my head. I had a pretty big swelling on the front of my head, like a hematoma. And paralysis, because of the shattered bone pieces in my spinal cord.

I vaguely remember people coming in and out of my ICU room. I was in the ICU for five days before my surgery, and I heard them say I was paralyzed. I remember laying in my bed and pointing at my toes and trying to wiggle them, and obviously nothing responded. It’s just fuckery. You have hope and you’re sad and you don’t get it, and you’re on drugs and you’re overwhelmed and you’re in pain. Of course I was in denial and of course I was mad and sad. I still have a lot of blame for myself, and disappointment and frustration. Where is that time travel machine? If I could only go back for that one second…what the fuck was I doing.

I would rotate through friends, because with the bandwidth for friendships, the amount of listening that I needed, needed to be rotated and spread across different friends. It felt like it was too much if I were to go to one or three of them, I needed 10 of them to listen and console me and be there.

Use your community. You’re not alone as much as we feel like we are at times, because we are in our heads and we feel like nobody’s experienced this trauma or this grief, but somebody out there has. Talk to them. There’s somebody out there who maybe hasn’t experienced the exact same thing, but can share and corroborate on what you’re feeling.

I still struggle with it. I have a lot of shame still, being in public in my wheelchair. I get embarrassed about things like the amount of eyeballs I get when I hand cycle around Lake Estes. Or people being like, “You go girl.” You don’t even know the shit that I was doing before; my heart rate is not even 100 right now. But I clearly still have that internal dialogue, and I talk to myself every day on the hand cycle. I’m like, What good does this do? Is it going to keep me inside? No. Get over yourself. Get outside. What is more important, being sulking inside and sitting on the couch and eating that ice cream, or going to fucking earn the ice cream? Why not try? That’s the human I’ve always been.

After I was injured in 2017, I returned to the National Park Service in a unique role. I’ve been educating on the type of mobility devices out there, opening doors for us to explore and be recreationally more adaptive on our trails in national parks. Also trying to measure our national park trails so we have more specific information, so the user can decide which trail works better for them rather than just being funneled to the one labeled accessible trail in our parks.

I’m gonna be an advocate louder than I can be for people with disabilities recreating in our national parks and in our public lands, and fo spinal cord research. Let’s amp it up, man. We got places to go, things to do.

Quinn Brett is an athlete, writer, public speaker advocate, and National Park Service employee. Her journey is documented in the film An Accidental Life. You can follow her adventures at and on Instagram .

You can followĚýThe Daily RallyĚý´Ç˛ÔĚý,Ěý,Ěý, or wherever you like to listen, and nominate someone to be featured on the showĚý.

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From Alaska’s remote bush to downtown Cleveland, our national parks provide us with millions of acres of public land to explore. We compiled a list of the best hikes in each park, according to the wilderness guides, park rangers, and hikers who know them.

Best Hikes in Acadia National Park

Maine

The Expert:ĚýPat Johnson, Maine Outdoor şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Club trip leader
The Hike: Penobscot and Sargent Mountain Loop

SummitĚýtwo of the on this 9.5-mile loop through thick spruce forest that eventually gives way to pink-tinted granite crags. The route offers access to three carriage-road bridges, relics from John D. Rockefeller Jr.’s philanthropic work—consider detouring less than a half mileĚýto the 230-foot-long Cliffside Bridge.

Best Hikes in Arches National Park

Utah

The Expert: John Tillison, former Washington State park ranger
The Hike: Devils Garden Loop

You’ll see eight of the on this 7.9-mile tour through Devils Garden. It’s an easy stroll to the longest arch in North America, Landscape Arch, but then the gentle trail transitions to narrow ledges that involve some scrambling to reach Double O, Navajo, and Partition Arches.

Best Hikes In Badlands National Park

South Dakota

The Expert:ĚýKelsy Koerlin, Rapid City, South Dakota, hiker
The Hike: Notch Trail

An easyĚý1.5-mile round-trip, this trail tours the best of the otherworldly assortment of eroded rock and clay, splashed with a brilliant array of red, white, and black. Ascend a log ladder to a bird’s-eye view of the rugged terrain and distant prairie of White River Valley.

Best Hikes in Big Bend National Park

Texas

The Expert:ĚýCourtney Lyons-Garcia, Big Bend Conservancy executive director
The Hike: Lost Mine Trail

through the heart of the Chisos Mountains for 4.8 miles round-trip, past alligator junipers and piñon pines. The viewsĚýof the Sierra del Carmen mountainsĚýin Mexico are spectacular. Visit in November or March to avoid the summer heat.

Best Hikes in Biscayne National ParkĚý

Florida

The Expert: Sandra Friend, author of ‘The Florida Trail Guide’
The Hike: Spite Highway Trail

Only accessible by boat, is the largest island in the park, home to the “,” a seven-mile sliver of forest that in the 1960s was flattened in opposition to a national-monument designation. It’s the park’s only hiking trail, and on it you’ll be immersed in tropical forests, even as Miami looms to the north.

Best Hikes in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Colorado

The Expert:ĚýElaine Brett, North Fork Valley, Colorado, hiker
The Hike: North Vista Trail

At Exclamation Point, snag the best view of the from 900 feet above the rim. Continue to Green Mountain for a panoramic vista of the San Juan Mountains and Grand Mesa, a seven-mile round-trip.

Best Hikes in Bryce Canyon National Park

Utah

The Expert:ĚýCharlie Neumann, owner of Willow Canyon Outdoor, in Kanab, Utah
The Hike: Under the Rim Trail

At 23 miles one-way, is the longest in Bryce. Take two days to experience the best of the Paunsaugunt Plateau’s hoodoo rock spires. Tackle most of the 5,000 feet in elevation change early by starting at Rainbow Point—you can arrange a shuttle there with the Park Service, free with your entry fee.

Best Hikes in Canyonlands National ParkĚý

Utah

The Expert:ĚýCort Wright, Moab şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Center guide
The Hike: Grand View Point

Although this is only a two-mile round-trip, the trail leading to isn’t short on views—you’ll gawk at the maze of basins, dozens of canyons, and the La Sal Mountains in the distance. Arrive before dawn (and the crowds) to watch the sun cast the desert in an amber hue.

Best Hikes in Capitol Reef National Park

Utah

The Expert: Andrew Wojtanik, former Capitol Reef interpretive ranger
The Hike: Halls Creek Narrows

The beauty of the Halls Creek Narrows, a slot canyon with towering cliffs, is often compared to the famous Narrows of Zion, yet this 22.4-mile round-trip hike is much more . The unmarked route requires a topographic map and compass to navigate. Plan to spend two nights in the backcountryĚýand to get wet through several creek crossings.

Best Hikes in Carlsbad Caverns National Park

New Mexico

The Expert:ĚýColin Walfield, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, employee
The Hike: Big Room Trail

It takes about an hour and a half to encircle the Big Room—the largest chamber within Ěýand the largest single cave chamber by volume in North America. ThisĚý1.25-mile walk twists among giant stalagmites on a paved trail with handrails. A ranger-guided tour provides insight into the geologic history of the cave system.

Best Hikes in Channel Islands National Park

California

The Expert: David Begun, Channel Islands park ranger
The Hike: Lobo Canyon Trail

This 5.2-mile loop is marked by its ecological diversity—more than a dozen grow in the park. You’ll start in grassland bluffs, with sweeping views of the Pacific, before dropping into a canyon harboring native plants like the canyon sunflower. When you reach the coastline, look out for peregrine falcons and bald eagles.

Best Hikes in Congaree National Park

South Carolina

The Expert: Barbie Smrekar, Columbia Outdoor şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Network organizer
The Hike: River Trail

Tour this park’s namesake river on a through bottomland and bald cypress forest, home to whitetail deer, otters, and feral hogs. In periods of low water, lounge near the river on exposed sandbars—but keep an eye out for alligators.

Best Hikes in Crater Lake National Park

Oregon

The Expert: Erik Fernandez, Oregon Wild wilderness-program manager
The Hike: Garfield Peak Trail

Starting from the Crater Lake Lodge, at an elevation of aboutĚý7,000 feet, climb another thousand feet in 1.7 miles to Garfield Peak. From hereĚýyou’ll have a view of , the deepest in the country at almost 2,000 feet. Go in July for peak wildflower viewing and early in the morning to miss the crowds.

Best Hikes in Cuyahoga Valley National Park

Ohio

The Expert: Erik Baldwin, Cleveland Hiking Club member
The Hike: Buckeye Trail

You’ll be hard-pressed to find another park quite like , nestled in the middle of Cleveland. This one’s for the trail runners and the hardcore hikers: a 12.6-mile section of the from Station Road Bridge to the historic village of Boston. Pass waterfalls and old homesteads dotting densely forested hills before looping back.

Best Hikes in Death Valley National Park

California and Nevada

The Expert: Alan Gegax, VegasHikers trip organizer
The Hike: Panamint City Ghost Town

was a mining town founded by outlaws in 1873 that quickly garnered a rough reputation, but it was leveled a few years later in a flash flood. Hike to its ruins from Chris Wicht’s Camp, five miles via Surprise Canyon, and admireĚýits flowing water and lush vegetation—raritiesĚýin Death Valley.

Best Hikes in Denali National Park

Alaska

The Expert: Amy Eckert, travel writer
The Hike: Savage Alpine Trail

Few trails exist in Denali National Park, but among the handful that do, offers a lot in only eight miles round-trip. Wind overĚýtundra and past Dall sheep before climbing a ridge that on a clear day offers a view of 20,310-foot Denali, North America’s highest peak.

Best Hikes in Dry Tortugas National Park

Florida

The Expert: Sandra Friend, author of ‘The Florida Trail Guide’
The Hike: Fort Jefferson Loop

You won’t find any wilderness hiking trails in , an island 70 miles west of Key West. The main attraction here is Fort Jefferson, the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere. A half-mile loop around the island is a great tour of the fort and overlooksĚýthe Caribbean’s crystal waters.

Best Hikes in Everglades National Park

Florida

The Expert: Sandra Friend, author of ‘The Florida Trail Guide’
The Hike:ĚýSnake Bight Trail

The Everglades are better known for swampy boat tours than hiking. But the best trail here is , 1.6 miles one-way through tropical forests. The terminus is a boardwalk that offers bird-watching near a bay—lookĚýfor pink flamingos.

Best Hikes in Gates of the Arctic National Park

Alaska

The Expert: Carl Donohue, Expeditions Alaska guide
The Hike: Koyukuk River Route

Take a plane to a gravel bar on the North Fork of the Koyukuk River, which snakes for more than 100 miles between glacial valleys. Spend a week and follow three creeks—Kachwona, Wolf, and Fish—up to 40 milesĚýdeep into the backcountry of the Brooks Range.

Best Hikes in Gateway Arch National Park

Missouri

At just 91Ěýacres, Gateway Arch is the smallest National Park. There’s not really any hiking, per se, but you should stroll the Mississippi River waterfront and then takeĚýthe elevator to the top of the Arch.

Best Hikes in Glacier National Park

Montana

The Expert: Grete Gansauer, Montana Wilderness AssociationĚýnorthwest Montana field director
The Hike: Hidden Lake Trail

Hikers habitually gawk at bears and bighorn sheep along this alpine . In summerĚýyou’ll be surrounded by wildflowers as you gaze at Glacier’s jagged peaks. Descend to Hidden Lake via switchbacks to lounge on the beach, with Bearhat and Reynolds Mountains just over your shoulder.

Best Hikes in Glacier Bay National park

Alaska

The Expert: Adam DiPietro, former Glacier Bay trail-crew member
The Hike: Gustavus Plane-Crash Site

This park is celebrated for whale-watching and towering glaciers, and those are definitely must-do’s, but so is this half-mile hike to a Douglas C-47 crash site—in 1957, the crew went down after clipping a tall tree. The trail takes you through woods smattered with mosses, like old man’s beard, and you’ll likely have it to yourself.

Best Hikes in Grand Canyon National Park

Arizona

The Expert: Melanie Radzicki McManus, Arizona Trail thru-hiker
The Hike: South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails

The best hike in theĚý combines two trails, which traverseĚýthe mile-deep canyon, and takesĚýtwo days. From the South Kaibab Trailhead, descend seven miles via ridges and spend the night next to the Colorado River at the Bright Angel Campground. The next day, huff back up the canyon on the Bright Angel Trail for 9.5 miles.

Best Hikes in Grand Teton National ParkĚý

Wyoming

The Expert: Amy Eckert, travel writer
The Hike: Lake Solitude

, follow the crowds to Inspiration Point, which offersĚýviews of the Gros Ventre Mountains. As you enter Cascade Canyon, the masses dwindle as the Tetons’ jagged peaks flank the trail. Pass berry patches and boulder fields before reaching Lake Solitude at mile tenĚýfor a secluded night in the backcountry, then trek back the next day.

Best Hikes in Great Basin National Park

Nevada

The Expert: Nichole Andler, Great Basin National Park chief of interpretation
The Hike: Timber Creek–Baker Creek Loop Trail

You’ll have this to yourself virtually any time of year, starting from 8,000 feet and walking uphill via Timber Creek, with expansive views of Snake Valley below. Climb another 1,600 feet or so to aspen groves and a meadow, withĚý11,926-foot Pyramid Peak just overhead.

Best Hikes in Great Sand Dunes National Park

Colorado

The Expert: Ryan Kempfer, Salida Mountain Sports employee
The Hike: Sand Ramp Trail

Much more than sand dunes, creek crossings, wildlife viewing, and stunning shots of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Skirt the eastern edge of the dunes across undulating terrain for 11 miles one-way. Camp near Sand Creek’s cottonwoods before backtracking the next day.

Best Hikes in Great Smoky Mountains National Park

North Carolina and Tennessee

The Expert: Diane Petrilla, Smoky Mountains Hiking Club vice president
The Hike: Ramsey Cascades Trail

This was never logged, so it’s full of giant trees—some tulip poplars reach seven feet in diameter. Through a jungle of rhododendrons, you’ll ascend more than 2,000 feet over four miles to the tallest waterfall in the park, 100-foot Ramsey Cascades.

Best Hikes in Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Texas

The Expert: Cameron Hall, North Texas hiker
The Hike: McKittrick Canyon Trail

is often hailed as the most beautiful spot in Texas. It’s secluded, and in the fall, foliage bursts red and yellow. This 14.8-mile out-and-back takes you to Pratt CabinĚýand then to a small cave with stalagmites. You’ll ascend McKittrick Ridge on the steepest section of trail in the park, looking down on the canyon.

Best Hikes in HaleakalÄĺ National Park

Hawaii

The Expert: Joani Morris, Friends of HaleakalaĚýNational Park hike leader
The Hike: Sliding Sands Trail

Towering over Maui at 10,023 feet above sea level, the dormant resembles the surface of Mars. For a tour of the caldron, start at the Keoneheehee Trailhead, trekking across the crater’s floor. People flock to the summit to witness a spectacular sunrise (reservations are needed).

Best Hikes in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Hawaii

The Expert: Barnard Griggs, member of the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Corp. board of directors
The Hike: Napau Trail

On this 14-mile round-trip, you’ll explore rainforests and recent lava flows to reach Napau Crater. In the distance, you’ll see the Puu OoĚývolcano, whichĚýhad been continuously erupting since 1983, quieting only last year.

Best Hikes in Hot Springs National Park

Arkansas

The Expert: Don Jackson, owner of Ouachita Outdoor Outfitters
The Hike: West Mountain–Mountain Top Trails

From Whittington Park, ascend more than 400 feet on the before connecting with the West Mountain Trail, whichĚýloops around a ridge—you’ll have great views of downtown Hot Springs. Afterward,Ěýsoak at the Buckstaff Bathhouse, in operation since 1912.

Best Hikes in Indiana Dunes National Park

Indiana

The Expert: Jean-Pierre Anderson, Indiana Dunes National Park ranger
The Hike: West Beach Three-Loop Trail

The best hike in Ěýcombines three loops totaling 3.4 miles. Start among the dunes on the Dune Succession Trail, also touring an oak savannah and wetlands. Connect with the West Beach Trail and then the Long Lake Loop Trail, where you’ll encounter more undulating dunes.

Best Hikes in Isle Royale National Park

Michigan

The Expert: Amy Eckert, Greenstone Ridge Trail thru-hiker
The Hike: Greenstone Ridge Trail

can only be reached by boat, guaranteeing solitude on this remote 42-mile trail that spans the island. You’ll be immersed in boreal forest home to moose and wolves, occasionally topping a bald ridge offering views of the island and Lake Superior.

Best Hikes in Joshua Tree National Park

California

The Expert: Tim Liddell, Hi-Desert Hiking Club trip leader
The Hike: Maze Loop

Combine the Maze, North View, and Window Trails for an eight-mile walk through mature desert vegetation like California juniper, yucca, and the park’s namesake Joshua trees. While trail signage has improved in recent years, navigation of this Joshua Tree National Park trail can still be difficult, so carry a map.

Best Hikes in Katmai National Park

Alaska

The Expert:ĚýDan Oberlatz, Alaska Alpine şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs owner and guide
The Hike: Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes

In 1912, the erupted and destroyed 40 square miles of Alaska’s backcountry. TodayĚýthe valley resembles the desert Southwest, with red mineral deposits covering sections of exposed rock. From the Three Forks Visitor Center, circumvent the valley floor, ascending nearby Broken, Baked, Cerberus, and Falling Mountains. You’ll trek more than 50 miles off-trail and spend over a week in the backcountry. Advanced navigation skills are a must.

Best Hikes in Kenai Fjords National Park

Alaska

The Expert: Kyle McDowell, Kenai Backcountry şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs guide
The Hike: Harding Icefield Trail

A tough but rewarding 8.2-mile round trip hike that gains about 1,000 feet per mile and starts on the valley floor through cottonwoods and alder trees, and offers views of the Exit Glacier even a short distance in. Continue to climb above treeline for views of the Harding Icefield.

Best Hikes in Kings Canyon National Park

California

The Expert:ĚýBenjamin Cumbie, Sequoia Parks Conservancy, philanthropy and membership manager
The Hike: Redwood Mountain Grove

Tour the largest intact grove of in the world on this 9.9-mile loop, which combinesĚýthe Hart Tree and Sugar Bowl Trails. The Sierra NevadaĚýis visible as you stroll past flower-filled meadows, and the lonely dirt road leading to the Redwood Canyon Trailhead deters throngs of visitors.

Best Hikes in Kobuk Valley National Park

Alaska

The Expert: Nick Allen, Alaska Alpine şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs guide
The Hike: Great Kobuk Sand Dunes

This remote part of the has no maintained trails, so you’ll be route-finding in the Alaskan bush. Boreal forest gives way to tundra along the Kobuk River, where you’ll find 25 square miles of sand dunes. Getting there requires a bush plane.

Best Hikes in Lake Clark National Park

Alaska

The Expert: Dan Oberlatz, Alaska Alpine şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs owner and guide
The Hike: Telaquana Route

This ten-day, roughly 40-mile trek from Telaquana Lake to Upper Twin Lake is only for those willing to bushwhack. is viaĚýfloatplane toĚýTelaquana Lake, and then you’ll be route-finding with a compass and topo map. Pass glaciers, ford rivers, and navigate seemingly endless miles of remote forest and tundra until you reach Proenneke’s Cabin, a log structure built largely by hand in the sixtiesĚýby Richard Proenneke.

Best Hikes in Lassen Volcanic National Park

California

The Expert: Sabrina Jurisich, Redding, California hiker
The Hike: Kings Creek Falls Trail

Walk along past California red firs that are permanently bowed from heavy snow in the winter (yearly snowpack can be as deep as 15 feet). The end of this 2.3-mile loop has an overlook of Kings Creek Falls, cascading 30 feet down.

Best Hikes in Mammoth Cave National Park

Kentucky

The Expert:ĚýMichael Bunch, manager ofĚýNat’s Outdoor Sports in Bowling Green, Kentucky

More than 400 miles of have been explored, and the labyrinth boasts the title of world’s longest cave system. The best way to see it is on the three-mile Violet City Lantern Tour (tickets are required to enter the cave), where you’ll re-create the experience of bygone explorers by walking with only the light from a lantern as a guide.

Best Hikes in Mesa Verde National Park

Colorado

The Expert: Betsy Fitzpatrick, Trails 2000 member
The Hike: Petroglyph Point Trail

From the , pass the Spruce Tree House cliff dwelling, constructed before 1278 A.D. with 130 rooms and eightĚýceremonial chambers. At 1.4 miles, you’ll see the petroglyph panel that researchers believe depicts two Native American clans returning to the place of their origin. Complete the 2.4-mile loop on the mesa top.

Best Hikes in Mount Rainier National Park

Washington

The Expert: Diann Sheldon, Discover Nature guide
The Hike: High Lakes Loop

The will take you to Reflection Lake, Mount Rainier glimmering on its surface. Veer onto the Lower Lakes Trail through wildflower meadows before hopping on the High Lakes Trail and then the Mazama Ridge Trail. Reconnect with Wonderland to complete the 2.5-mile loop.

Best Hikes in National Park of American Samoa

American Samoa

The Expert: Sarah Barmeyer, National Parks Conservation Association,ĚýĚýsenior managing director for conservation programs
The Hike: Tuafanua Trail

From , climb up switchbacks to a ridgetop through tropical rainforest that’s home to fruit bats. You’ll descend via ladders and ropes to a rocky beach scattered with coconut crabs that climb trees and weigh up to nineĚýpounds. You’ll spot Pola Island offshore before returning 1.1 miles to the trailhead.

Best Hikes in North Cascades National Park

Washington

The Expert: Anna Roth, Washington Trails Association hiking-content manager
The Hike: Thunder Creek–Park Creek Pass

Start this 55.2-mile out-and-back at the Colonial Creek Campground, and tour old-growth forest over the five-day trek to Park Creek Pass and back. You’ll have fantastic views of the Cascade Mountains among meadows, with sporadic scrambling required in some sections.

Best Hikes in Olympic National Park

Washington

The Expert: Anna Roth, Washington Trails Association hiking-content manager
The Hike: Heather Peak

Begin on the Heather PeakĚýTrail in a second-growth forest of mountain hemlock adorned with bearded lichen. You’ll be climbing steadily via switchbacks over five milesĚýtoward 5,740-foot Heather Peak. Scramble along a rocky ridge to the peak, then trek another quarter mile to a saddle that affordsĚýstunning views to the south before returning.

Best Hikes in Petrified Forest National Park

Arizona

The Expert: Patrick Fuchs, Arizona Trailblazers Hiking Club member
The Hike: Blue Mesa Trail

This one-mile loop will take you past the multicolored sedimentary rock layers of . Hike at sunrise to witness the serrated edges of the mesa glow. Along the way, you’ll pass numerous petrified trees with a geologic backdrop that resembles the moon.

Best Hikes in Pinnacles National Park

California

The Expert: Dave Wachtel, Monterey Bay Area Hiking Club organizer
The Hike: Chaparral Trailhead

On this nine-mile loop, start on the Juniper Canyon Trail from the ,Ěýthen detour to the Tunnel Trail, which brings you to the High Peaks Trail, where you’ll have a chance to spot California condors. You’ll connect with the Rim Trail, whichĚýmeanders to Bear Gulch Cave, a maze of building-sizeĚýboulders. From there, head west on the Bench Trail and connect with the Old Pinnacles Trail, which circles back to the trailhead.

Best Hikes in Redwood National Park

California

The Expert: David Baselt, Redwood Hikes creator
The Hike: Boy Scout Tree Trail

You’ll be immersed in a large tract of on this 5.6-mile out-and-back. In Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park (managed jointly with the National Park Service), start early in the morning from the Boy Scout Tree Trailhead. At mile 2.5, you’ll encounterĚýthe Boy Scout Tree, a massive double redwood discovered by a local troop leader. The hike ends at Fern Falls.

Best Hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado

The Expert: Steve Bonowski, Colorado Mountain Club trip leader
The Hike: Crystal Lakes

From the Lawn Lake Trailhead, ascend toward the Mummy Range through aspens and pines. You’ll be following the Roaring River for a stretch and will eventually break tree line, with views of 13,425-foot Mummy Mountain. Check out Lawn Lake at mile 6.2 before continuing another 1.2 miles to Little Crystal and Big Crystal Lakes.

Best Hikes in Saguaro National Park

Arizona

The Expert: Jocasta Houldsworth, Tucson, Arizona, hiker
The Hike: Garwood Dam Loop

Totaling 6.4 miles, this hike starts from the on the Garwood Trail. You’ll quickly enter a saguaro cactus forest. Keep an eye out for a rare crested saguaro and its fan-shaped tip—there are only 25 in the park. You’ll pass Garwood Dam, built in the 1950s, and swinging a left onto the Carrillo Trail will lead to views of the Santa Catalina Mountains.

Best Hikes in Sequoia National Park

California

The Expert: Benjamin Cumbie, Sequoia Parks Conservancy membership manager
The Hike: High Sierra Trail

A great alternative to the John Muir Trail, this snakes through high mountain passes in the Sierra Nevada. Highlights include swimming in Hamilton and Precipice Lakes and Kern Hot Springs. Tack an extra 13 miles on the JMT to hit the summit of Mount Whitney.

Best Hikes in Shenandoah National ParkĚý

Virginia

The Expert: David Bennick, Potomac Appalachian Trail Club’s Southern Shenandoah Valley Chapter president
The Hike: Jones Run and Doyles River Trails

From the Browns Gap parking area, take the as it traces a ridge for 1.4 miles. A left on the Jones Run Trail switchbacks downhill to cascading Jones Run Falls. Take the Doyles River Trail past two more waterfalls back to the parking lot, completing a 6.5-mile loop.

Best Hikes in Theodore Roosevelt National Park

North Dakota

The Expert: Nick Ybarra, Watford City, North Dakota, adventure guide
The Hike: Maah Daah Hey Trail

The 144-mileĚý, which cuts through the heart of the Badlands, is the longest singletrack mountain-biking route in the country. And it’s great for hiking, too. You’ll go through three units of the park, including the remote Elkhorn Ranch, where Theodore Roosevelt had a cabin, and the Little Missouri National Grasslands. Expect solitude among swaying prairie grass and forests of juniper trees.

Best Hikes in Virgin Islands National Park

U.S. Virgin Islands

The Expert: Kim Powell, Friends of the Virgin Islands National Park
The Hike: Reef Bay Trail

Tour some of the tallest and oldest trees on this roughly six-mile out-and-back. On the way to Reef Bay, you’ll see ruins of Danish sugar plantations, remnants of cattle ranches, and pre-Colombian Taino rock carvings.

Best Hikes in Voyageurs National Park

Minnesota

The Expert: Sam Brueggeman, staff member at Trailfitters in Duluth, Minnesota
The Hike: Cruiser Lake Trail

With more than 84,000 acres of water to explore, paddling is a great way to get around —but you can put your hiking boots to use on the Cruiser Lake Trail. Accessible via boat, the trail wends 9.5 miles one-way across wetlands and rocky cliffs.

Best Hikes in Wind Cave National Park

South Dakota

The Expert: Tom Farrell, Wind Cave National Park chief of interpretation
The Hike: Rankin Ridge Fire Tower

, nestled underneath the Black Hills of South Dakota, is one of the most complex cave systems in the world. But up above, miles of hiking trails zigzag across the prairie and hills. Trek to Rankin Ridge, the highest point in the park, where you’ll find the Rankin Ridge Fire Tower. At only one mile round-trip, this one is accessible for all skill levels.

Best Hikes in Wrangell–St. Elias National Park

Alaska

The Expert: Greg Fensterman, Trek Alaska guide
The Hike: Seven Pass Route

is the biggest national park in the United States—13.2 million acres—and one of the most remote. On this eight-day, 40-mile backpacking trip deep in the backcountry, you’ll start near Iceberg Lake, following a river to a glacier crossing. Expect to navigate more glaciers, along with high-ridge traverses, while you enjoy spectacular views of snowcapped mountains.

Best Hikes in Yellowstone National Park

Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho

The Expert: Mike Rosekrans, Yellowstone Forever lead instructor
The Hike: Clear Lake Loop

From the Wapiti Lake Trailhead, you’ll walk 6.7 miles past thermal-activity sites, with views of Mount Washburn. You’ll skirt Clear and Ribbon Lakes—near the latter, there’s a nice spur trail that’ll bring you to Silver Cord Cascade, a waterfall that plunges more than 1,000 feet into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

Best Hikes in Yosemite National ParkĚý

California

The Expert: Frank Dean, Yosemite Conservancy president
The Hike: Valley Loop Trail

trails are chocked withĚýcrowds, but you’ll have the Valley Loop Trail to yourself for 11.5 miles. From Lower Yosemite Fall, the trail traces old wagon roads through meadows, with views of El Capitan.

Best Hikes in Zion National Park

Utah

The Expert: Rachel Ross, Zion şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Company guide
The Hike: Observation Point

You’ll gain 3,000 feet in elevation in 3.4 miles, climbing through canyons toward . ThereĚýyou’ll have an excellent view of Zion Canyon, a few hundred feet higher than the busier Angel’s Landing viewpoint.

Editor’s Note: A previous version of this article recommended a trail in Kenai Fjords National Park that requires advanced navigation and trekking skills. The article has been updated with a hike on a more established and approachable route. Separately, trail conditions change often. Before you head out on your hike, visit for the latest information.

The post The Best Hike in Every National Park appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

In a land of spectacular and diverse environments, curating şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř’s definitive list of the best park in every state is a tall order. To do so, I solicited recommendations from my colleagues and searched high and low for the spot that exemplifies the region’s natural features—be they precipitous cliffs, lush river valleys, or vastĚýicy expanses—and does what an outdoor recreation area should do: getĚýyou away from the hoi polloi and immerseĚýyou in the landscape.

Our selections are not your Yosemites and Grand Canyons, where you have to elbow your way to the front of the pack at Tunnel View and Mather Point. Go to those if you want. But also carve out time to enjoy these less visited destinations, which are both especially scenic and well-rounded in their offerings. Whether you like exploring on foot, water, or two wheels, the picks on this list have something for everyone. We weren’t strict about whether it was a national or state park—or even a different type of recreation area altogether—but we were strict about selecting the best destinations.

Alabama

Little River Canyon National Preserve

In the state’s northeastern corner, the 15,288-acre contains both the eponymous waterway—nĚýin the Southeast—and the 600-foot-tall Little River Canyon, one of theĚýdeepest east of the Mississippi. Climb and rappel any of the overlooks.ĚýHike and bike backcountry roads. (Keep an eye out for Paleozoic fossils that date back up to 540 million years.)ĚýAnd check out a handful of waterfalls situated amid an unusually diverse range of flora, like the endangered Kral’sĚýwater plantain and carnivorous green pitcher plant. You’ll findĚýtop-notch Class III–V whitewater and abundant fishing along the length of the Little River, which runs along the flatĚýtop of Lookout Mountain.ĚýAlthough camping is not allowed, you’ll at DeSoto State Park, abutting the preserve.

Alaska

Kenai Fjords National Park

Denali is undeniably enticing. You’ll experience the same sense of awe at one of Alaska’s less visited parks: , near the town of Seward in south-central Alaska. The rare fjord estuary ecosystem is found in only five other places on the planet (none of which are in North America). This massive 669,984-acre park on the Kenai Peninsula has ample mountaineering. There’sĚýalso a bucket listĚýhike: aĚýspectacular 8.2-mileĚýround-trip day hike that gains 1,000 feet of elevation.ĚýThe Harding Icefield, aĚýpatch ofĚýfrozen water that’s nearly 714 square miles long and up to a mile thick,Ěýoffers hiking and mountaineering. Kayak glacial lagoons with clown-faced puffins for a day trip, and backpack or boat camp the coastal backcountry amid Sitka spruces and blooming fireweed.

Arizona

Red Rock Ranger District

Okay, so this one isn’t technically a park—but you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better playground inĚýArizona. The 160,000-acre manages the portion of Coconino National Forest Arizona surrounding Sedona. The visitor center at Red Rock Ranger Station will tell you everything you need to know about the region, like where to find Sedona’s famously technical mountain biking, cinnamon-coloredĚýspires for trad climbing, and evenĚýfishing and swimming in Oak Creek—a rare treat in the otherwise parched desert landscape. There are four developed fee campgrounds in the district (no dispersed roadside camping), but backpacking is permitted as long as you venture at least a mile from trailheads.

Arkansas

Buffalo National River

In 1972, a 135-mile stretch of the became our country’s first nationally protected waterway. A local treasure, the river remains less known outside of northern Arkansas. It meanders, undammed, through the Ozark Mountains’Ěýkarst rock formations in one of the Ěýof the national park system. (More than 500 caverns attract a multitude of endangered bats.) In addition to water-based activities like floating past the massive limestone bluffs and angling for 12 species of game fish, such as smallmouth bass, visitors can hike the 95,000 acres surrounding the river, including almost 36,000 acres of designated wilderness.

California

Redwood National and State Parks

ComprisingĚý131,983 acres, are scattered along the Northern California coast sixĚýhours north of San Francisco.ĚýThis mix of federal and state land is home to some of the world’s tallest trees, as well as a sea stack–lined coast (keep your eyes peeled for whales and harbor porpoises) and three rivers, including the Wild and Scenic Smith, the largest free-flowing river system in California. While most national parks don’t allow mountain biking, the former logging roads here are an exception. Camping is available at four developed campgrounds, or hit the 200-plus-mile trail system to enjoy eight backcountry camping areas.

Colorado

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

The Rockies are best known for soaring peaks, but the range is also home to the tallest dunes in North America, located in southern Colorado. Explore ’s 30 square miles on foot—backpacking is a great way to see the park’s alpine lakes and wetlands, too—or retire at one of the developed campgrounds after a day of fat biking, dune sledding, and splashing in the shallow, surging current of Medano Creek. In February and October, you’ll see a sedgeĚýof more than 20,000 sandhill cranes in addition to the park’s usual suspects, like pronghorns, yellow-bellied marmots, and bighorn sheep.

Connecticut

American Legion and Peoples State Forests

Combined, the total just over six square miles—but they pack in a lot of activities. In Connecticut’s wild northwest corner, the West Branch of the Farmington River divides the two areas and provides some of the best freshwater fishing in Connecticut. This Wild and Scenic River—a national designation granted to less than 0.25 percent of U.S. waterways—is a natural hub for float trips. Base out of Austin F. Hawes Memorial Campground and spend your days biking forest roads, , and hiking a 14-mile network of rugged trails that yields views of waterfalls and the river valley below. During the winter months, there’s cross-country skiing and even an at the Falls Cut-Off Trail.

Delaware

Cape Henlopen State Park

Ěýocean-based activities abound: swimming, boating, surf fishing, kayaking, clamming, paddleboarding, and windsurfing are all on the table. The park is home to two surf breaks, and . On land, hike or bike up to fiveĚýmiles within the park, or use it as a launch point for the nation’s first nonmotorized transcontinental path, theĚýAmerican Discovery Trail,ĚýwhichĚýbegins here and passes through cities, towns, farmland, and wild areas en route to PointĚýReyes National Seashore in Northern California. Camp among pine-studded sand dunes, or venture to the nearby Beach Plum Island Nature Preserve, Delaware’s only publicly owned wild beach, which contains undeveloped dunesĚýand marsh habitat.

Florida

Biscayne National Park

combines the best of southern Florida. You’ll find the Everglades’ famous mangrove swamps—Biscayne’s are also packed with alligators and crocodiles—as well as the spectacular coral reefs and abundant sea life you’d expect to find in the keys, such as manatees, sea turtles, dolphins, and rays. Since 95 percent of the park is water, you’ll want to rent a kayak, paddleboard, or canoe from the visitor center (or launch your own craft for free). There are multiple marine trails for , and the Maritime Heritage Trail guides snorkelers and divers past six diverse shipwrecks that span nearly a century. Although the park is far from remote—downtown Miami isĚývisible—you can still get adventurous. Experienced paddlers can cross the seven-mile expanse of Biscayne Bay and pay $25 to roll out a sleeping pad on one of two island campgroundsĚýon Elliott and Boca Chita Keys.

Georgia

Cumberland Island National Seashore

The largest and southernmost barrier island in Georgia is good for more than just swimming and beachcombing. features 17 miles of undeveloped beaches, as well as pristine maritime forests and marshland. Walk 50-plus miles under live oak and saw palmetto groves, keeping your eyes peeled for wild horses, alligators, and sea turtles. To get there, take the ferry from St. Marys, or kayak to the island. (Leave from town, from nearby Crooked River State Park, or from Amelia Island, which is just over the Florida border.)ĚýThreeĚýcampgroundsĚýare situated in designated wilderness areas; you can bike to two others. (Rent some wheels on the island or bring your own via ferry.)ĚýSea kayaks can be pulled ashore for camping by the Plum Orchard dock,Ěýbehind the Sea Camp Ranger Station, and in the Brickhill Bluff Wilderness Campground.

Hawaii

WaiĘ»Äĺnapanapa State Park

Bypass the hordes at HaleakalÄĺ and watch the sunrise from black sand PaĘ»iloa Beach at . The drive along Maui’s southeast coast is epicĚýon its own, and while the park does draw a good number of pit-stopping touristsĚýon the Highway to Hana, most just want to snap a photo of the lava tube and stroll to the freshwater pools before going on their way. Unpack your tent and you’ll find there’s more to explore. Several hiking trails traverse through dense flora—stands of guava, coconut, and breadfruit trees and the largest pandanus grove in Hawaii—and pass naturalĚýand cultural attractions like rocky coves, ruins, a haiau (or temple), blowholes, and jagged rock arches. On a calm day, swim 200 feet into PaĘ»iloa BayĚýto climb aĚýfreestanding sea stackĚýwhere you can leap fromĚýaboutĚý35 feet—orĚý45 feet if you’re feeling bold.

Idaho

Hells Canyon National Recreation Area

Straddling the Oregon-Idaho border, the Snake River cuts North America’s deepest river gorge. At nearly a mile and a half tall, Hells Canyon is taller than even Grand Canyon by almost 50 percent. The 650,000-acreĚý includes 217,000 acres of wilderness, where you can backpack along isolated ridges in exchange for epic panoramas. The 8,000-foot Seven Devils Mountains tower above Class II–IV whitewater and plenty of .

Illinois

Kickapoo State Recreation Area

At , you’ll find 22 ponds and access to the Middle Fork River amid 2,842 acres of sycamore and maple forest. There are also launch ramps at nine lakes, and you can angle for large- and smallmouth bass, channel catfish, bluegill, crappie, redear sunfish, and sizable rainbow trout. Ice fishing is available in the winter, as is cross-country skiing. In the warmer months, camp at one of 184 sites and spend your days biking 12 miles of the state’s best singletrack (ranging from easy to very technical) or running past wild cherry trees and vibrant wildflowers on 35 miles of trails. (Get a good workout on the difficultĚý7.6-mile .)

Indiana

Brown County State Park

Sure, the Hoosier State just got its first national park, but Indiana Dunes is already getting close to 2 million visitors a year—andĚýunlike ,Ěýit doesn’t have nearly 30 miles of flowy singletrackĚýranging from cruisey to white-knuckling.ĚýThis parkĚýin central Indiana’s Little Smokies is actually slightly larger than its shiny new neighbor to the north. At nearly 16,000 acres, Brown County is the biggest in Indiana’s park system. Hike more than 18 miles of trails through flowering dogwood and sweet gum trees (read: gorgeous fall color). Or connect to the greater , which has 260 miles of trails for hiking and backpacking, including the 13,000-acre .

Iowa

Backbone State Park

Designated in 1920, Iowa’s first parkĚýis still its best. Named for a steep, narrow, 80-foot-tall ridge of bedrock cut by the Maquoketa River,Ěý,Ěýin northeastern Iowa, is 2,000 acres of oak and maple woods packed with dolomitic limestone outcrops. The ample rock makes for great top-roping and trad climbing, as well as varied hiking on a rugged 21-mile multiuse trail system. Cyclists will enjoy the Barred Owl, Bluebird, East Lake, and West Lake Trails—or hit the 130-mile Northeast State Park Bike Route connecting Wapsipinicon and Pikes Peak State Parks on county highways. Explore Backbone Cave and the reservoir, Backbone Lake, which offers boating and some of the Iowa’s best trout fishing. You can crash at two campgrounds within park boundaries.

Kansas

Wilson State Park

The Sunflower State isn’t all flat prairie. Situated in the Smoky Hills region of central Kansas, ĚýfeaturesĚýrolling hills that give way to prominent sandstone bluffs. Tire yourself out on the challenging or at Wilson Reservoir, which makes for pleasant SUPing, swimming, kayaking, and fishing for bass and walleye, before adjourning to one of the campsites. The adjacent Wilson Wildlife Area has 8,000 acres of hiking and habitat for deer, pheasants, Canada geese, and coyotes.

Kentucky

Big South Fork National River andĚýRecreation Area

On the southern border of the Bluegrass State, Big South Fork Gorge makes a 40-mile cleft in the Cumberland Plateau. Although ranges well into Tennessee, it has Kentucky’s characteristic sandstone arches—without the crowds of the better-knownĚýRed River Gorge. At Big South Fork, you’ll find sport climbing, Class IV paddling, bike-only trails, and bluff hikes overlooking scenic gorges and oak woodlands.

Louisiana

Kisatchie Bayou Recreation Complex

Set amid western Louisiana’sĚýold-growth hardwood and pine,Ěý has 17 primitive walk-in camp sites (and one drive-in site). It also has a boat launch for nonmotorized vessels, which makes for peaceful fishing for bass, perch, sunfish, and catfish. Ensconced in the 600,000-acre Kisatchie National Forest, you’ll have access to more than 100 miles of multiuse trails for running, hiking, and backpacking;Ěýopportunities for Ěýon roads and trails;Ěýand swimming at Kincaid, Caney, and Stuart lakes.

Maine

Baxter State Park

AtĚý200,000 acres,Ěý is a no-brainer. The difficult decision is narrowing down its recreation options: 200 miles of trails for hiking and backpacking, including the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, on Mount Katahdin; 337 campsites; mountain, road, and fat-biking routes; paddling on backcountry Wassataquoik Lake and Webster Stream, which includes Class I–III rapids and a Class V drop at Grand Pitch; and some of the most remote and challenging mountaineering in New England—not to mention .

Maryland

Assateague Island National Seashore

A dynamic barrier island that’s constantly reshaped by weather, is different every time you visit. Play in the surf and wander 37 miles of white sand beach in search of the isle’s famed wild ponies. Registered over-sand vehicles can rove a designated segment. The nearby island of Chincoteague is connected via a pavedĚýfour-mile bike path. At the end of the day, there are drive-in, walk-in, and backcountry campsites—you can even kayak to .

Massachusetts

Mount Greylock State Reservation

It can be tough to find room to sprawl in one of the most densely populated parts of the nation. But 12,000-acre , in the northwestern corner of Massachusetts, fits the bill. Named for the 3,491-foot peak—the state’s tallest—the park has 70 miles of trails, including 11.5 miles of the ATĚýand the historic Thunderbolt Ski Trail, good for hiking, mountain biking, backcountry skiing, and more. Backpackers will find primitive camping and trailside shelters amid the sylvan charm of the Berkshires.

Michigan

Isle Royale National Park

With only 25,000 annual visitors to its 132,018 acres, Ěýhas one of the lowest area-to-visitors ratiosĚýon this list. To get there, you have to take a ferry from Houghton, Copper Harbor, or Grand Portage. Famous for its , this off-the-grid archipelago features 165 miles of trails and 36 campgrounds (some accessible only by boat) to serve as your base camp for a few days ofĚýrunning, hiking, fishing, and diving on shipwrecks. Canoes and kayaks are excellent means of transportation within the park, though the former is better suited for the islands’ inland lakes than for open waters.

Minnesota

Voyageurs National Park

Named for the French Canadian travelers who explored what’s now the Minnesota-Ontario border, is best seen from its plentiful waterways. The 218,000 acres areĚýalmost half water, including four major lakes and 26 smaller ones for kayaking and canoeing the interior of the park. That said, there’s also plentiful forest hiking with numerous overlooks, as well asĚýsnowshoeing or cross-country skiing during winter months. Choose sections of the 30-mile Kab-Ash Trail, an interconnected system of four trailheads, or do the whole trail for a tour of the park. The numerous campsites include backcountry options. Brings binoculars to see the park’s moose, gray wolves, beavers, bald eagles, and river otters, and empty your pockets for wild berries and hazelnuts.

Mississippi

Gulf Island National Seashore

Stretching for 160 miles along the coast, extends all the way into the Florida Panhandle. Its ecosystems range from sultry bayous to gorgeous white-sand barrier islands, and you’re liable to see everything from dolphins and sea turtles to American black bears and armadillos. Explore the wild islets on foot, by boat, and in the water—the snorkeling and diving are prime. On shore, the 15.5-mile round-trip Live Oaks Bicycle Route connects the Davis Bayou Campground to the town of Ocean Springs, where you can resupply. Boat-in backcountry camping is available on the gorgeous Perdido Key.

Missouri

Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park

In the heart of the St. Francois Mountains, is worth a visit just for its eponymous maze of rocky wells that form a veritable playground of shallow pools to dip in and rocks to scramble overĚýin the East Fork Black River. But there are also 150-plus miles of trails within a 20-mile radius of Johnson’s Shut-Ins, including some of Missouri’s best singletrack. A section of the Ozark TrailĚýconnects to neighboring Taum Sauk Mountain State Park and is lined with a string of natural wonders, such as Mina Sauk Falls and the Devil’s Tollgate rock. Johnson’s Shut-Ins is one of only five state parks in Missouri that allow climbing. Check out the rare forest seeps, where water wells up from holes in the ground, as well as the dolomite glade, which is representative of the Ozarks but rare in this particular region.

Montana

Flathead National Forest

Glacier National Park is spectacular, yes, but its 3 million annual visitors aren’t as pretty. The nearby has similar high-alpine terrain and fewer people. DiverseĚýrecreationalĚýopportunitiesĚýare endless: run some whitewater, mountain bike, or go backpacking. To narrow down the massive tract into something more manageable, check out , a splendid 15,000-acre hiking area in the Hungry Horse Ranger District. Camp and ski in the backcountry, or bring your rods—more than 20 lakes in the immediate vicinity provideĚýexcellent lake fishing for cutthroat trout.

Nebraska

Smith Falls State Park

Home to the Nebraska’s tallest waterfall, is a perfect adventure base camp. Sleep there and use it as a launch point for paddle trips on the 76-mile Niobrara River, a National Scenic River that wends through dramatic bluffs. Hikers can walk to the 45-foot Fort Falls within nearby Fort Niobrara Wilderness Area, as well as Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge, a 19,131-acre parcel that’s home to bison, elk, prairie dogs, and other critters. Just a few more miles down the road, the 321-mile Cowboy Trail—America’s longest rail trail—takes off. Be sure to bring your gravel bike.

Nevada

Great Basin National Park

Near the Utah border lies the Silver State’s most underrated treasure: . There’s no entrance fee to this 77,000-acre park, which sits at around 10,000 feet in the high desert. Be sure to summit the state’s second-tallest mountain, 13,000-foot . You’ll have to stick to lower elevations to walk among the park’s 4,000-plus-year-old bristlecone pines and . You’ll need a guide to take you through most of the caverns, although one wild cave, Little Muddy, is open to independent cavers with permits.ĚýWith the exception of the short trail between Baker and the Great Basin Visitor Center, bikes are allowed only on roads in the park. However, you can connect to adjacent BLM and Forest Service land to bike trails that smellĚýof sagebrush. Backpacking is freeĚýon the 60-plus miles of trails in this International Dark Sky Park—one of sixĚýdesignations granted by the International Dark Sky Association to helpĚýpreserveĚýdark sites as a natural resource.

New Hampshire

Franconia Notch State Park

centers on a dramatic pass through the White Mountains, but that’s hardly its only attraction. The southeast face of Cannon Mountain has long been a hotspot for alpine and trad climbing in New England, and the park also has plenty of options for hiking and running. Walk through old-growth forest or moss-covered , a 90-foot-tall granite canyon that has narrow sections with only a 12-foot gap between its walls. SleepĚýat Lafayette Campground or Lonesome Lake Hut, the latter of which looks across a glacial lake and Franconia Ridge on the other side of the pass. Did we mention there’s skiing nearby at , too?

New Jersey

Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area

The undammedĚýMiddle Delaware River separates the Garden State from neighboring Pennsylvania with a 1,000-foot-deep chasmĚýthrough the Appalachian Mountains. Ranging from a quarter-mile wide at river level to a mile acrossĚýfromĚýthe top of one mountain to the opposite side, to say the Delaware Water Gap is impressive would be an understatement. The surrounding 70,000-acre isĚýalso impressive, with itsĚýwaterfalls, hemlock-filled ravines, and nearly 200 lakes and ponds. You can hike more than 100 miles of trails, 28 of which are on the AT. Bring a gravel bike for the 32-mile McDade Recreational Trail and your climbing gear for trad missions on MountĚýTammany and MountĚýMinsi. Or set off on a multiday trip on the Middle Delaware River. In the winter months, a Nordic ski setup and ice-climbing gear will come in handy.

New Mexico

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument

In southwestern New Mexico, is contained within the Gila Wilderness: 558,014 acres of unspoiledĚýmountainous terrain. The nation’s first wilderness area, Gila features more than 400 miles of trails for day hiking and backpacking. In addition to learning about the Mogollon Native American historyĚýof the area, visitors will enjoy two hot springs within walking distance of the visitor center at the national monument. Mexican gray wolves roam the region, as do javelinas, aĚýmedium-sizedĚýpig-like mammal. In the surrounding Gila National Forest, you’ll find fly-fishing and free camping at Cosmic Campground International Dark Sky Sanctuary, one of only four International Dark Sky Association–certified sanctuaries in the world.

New York

Adirondack Park

A patchwork of public and private lands, upstate New York’s is colossal. Of the 6 million acres originally protectedĚýin 1894—which still shape the park’s boundary—2.6 million acres known as Adirondack Forest Preserve remain firmly in the state’s hands. The remaining 3.4 million acres are privately owned but regulated by the Adirondack Park Agency to minimize the effects that these hamlets and agricultural and industrial areas might otherwise have onĚýthe park’s natural features. Adirondack Park is deservedly famous for its wealth of hiking, biking, skiing, snowboarding, whitewater rafting, lake paddling, fly-fishing, and climbing. The Adirondack Forest PreserveĚýcontains nearly 20 different sweeps of wilderness, including Saint Regis Canoe Area, the largest wilderness canoe zone in the northeastern United StatesĚý(and the only one in New York). If you’re up for portaging, pond-hop a classic route known as the Nine Carries.

North Carolina

Cape Lookout National Seashore

On the southernmost tip of the Outer Banks, off North Carolina’s Crystal Coast, the 56-mileĚý is part of a paper-thin strand of barrier islands. Comparable to the more popular to the north—albeit a bit more difficult to reach—Cape Lookout gets a fraction of Hatteras’ millions of annual visitors, even though it’s equallyĚýbeautiful. Climb 207 steps up Cape Lookout Lighthouse (equivalent to scaling a 12-story building), try your hand at crabbing or clamming, go windsurfing, or just splash around in the warm Atlantic waves. While there are only two trails, many people hike and backpack the islands in search of wild horses. (Remember to follow these .) With 112 miles of shore, Cape Lookout has also become a go-to sea kayaking destination on the mid-Atlantic coast.

North Dakota

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

South Dakota isn’t the only place Ěýin the United States that you’ll find badlands geology. Clocking in at well over 70,000 acres, ’s plains give way to caprocks and colorful layers of stone and bentonite clay. Roam in search of bison and elk—hikes range from tenĚýminutes to 12 hours—or grab a paddle and take a multiday float trip down the Little Missouri River. There are two official campgrounds, but with nearly half the park designated as wilderness, you can also camp in the backcountry amid wild roses.

Ohio

Cuyahoga Valley National Park

The Buckeye State’s sole national park, 33,000-acre , is the largest protected natural areaĚýin Ohio. Visitors can enjoy day hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, and paddling the Cuyahoga River amid evergreen forests, sedge-dotted wetlands, and prairies. One of the park’s largest grasslands was once the site of Richfield Coliseum, a large-scale event venue that was homeĚýtoĚýthe NBA’sĚýCleveland Cavaliers; it was torn down in 1999,Ěýand 327 acres of asphalt were replaced with native plants. The Palace on the Prairie site now attracts ochre-colored monarch butterflies and rare birds like Henslow’s sparrows.

Oklahoma

Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

You’d be forgiven if you didn’t expect to find top-notch granite in the Great Plains. Welcome to the , a 59,020-acre preserve in southwestern Oklahoma. The rugged Wichita Mountains protect mixed-grass prairies and oak forests from howling winds and provide multipitch trad and sport climbing, as well as top-roping and bouldering. Hike past fauna such as bison, elk, burrowing owls, and river otters, and go fishing for largemouth bass, sunfish, crappie, and channel catfish. Keep your eyes peeled for the state reptile:Ěýthe striking turquoise Oklahoma collared lizard. has 90 sites, but if you’re looking for a little more seclusion, backcountry camping is available in the 8,570-acre Charon’s Garden Wilderness Area for just two bucks.

Oregon

Oswald West State Park

Two hours west of Portland, the 2,484-acre is not nearly as expansive as many of the parks on this list, but its wild scenery will make you feel like you’re far from society. The rugged cape epitomizes seaside Oregon’s allure: temperate rainforests filled with salmonberries and ferns populate the inland areas, while surf batters volcanic basalt and sandstone cliffs. Although this stunning park no longer allows camping, there’s plenty to keep you busy on a day trip. A good surf break,ĚýShort Sands Beach (akaĚýShorty’s)Ěýis alsoĚýa favorite with beachgoers for its seclusion and protection from the stiff coastal breeze. Offshore, protects a variety of aquatic species. Opt for a run or hike on the nearby Oregon Coast Trail, or do an eight-mile round-trip up Neah-kah-nie Mountain, one of the state’s most prominent coastal peaks.

Pennsylvania

Ohiopyle State Park

Pennsylvania has a lot of parks, but none exhibit the same combination of size and recreational diversity as . With more than 25 miles ofĚýmountain bikeĚýtrails in its 20,000 acres and high-quality whitewater on the Youghiogheny River (including a set of falls you can drop during a few weeks out of the year), there’s no shortage of adrenaline-inducing activities. Slip down natural water slides, view the deepest gorge in Pennsylvania from Baughman Rocks, and explore rare plants and fossils on the Ferncliff Peninsula, which has a distinctly mild and humid microclimate. Spend the night under the stars at Kentuck Campground, or hit the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail, a 70-mile trail accessible year-round for backpacking.

Rhode Island

Arcadia Management Area

Rhode Island’s largest recreation area, the 14,000-acre Ěýproffers more than a dozen hiking trails, tons of bouldering, and 40 miles of technical singletrack for mountain bikers. It also features swimming, some of the state’s best freshwater fishing, and the Wood River, which has Class I–II whitewater suitable for both kayakers and canoeists. All tuckered out? There are walk-in campsites where you can pop up a tent away from civilization.

South Carolina

Congaree National Park

Part of the Congaree International Biosphere Reserve (a UNESCO designation granted to areas of exceptional biodiversity, natural resources, and cultural heritage), central South Carolina’s features the largest intact expanse of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest remaining in the southeastern United States. Hikes through the floodplain forestland range from less than a mile, like the boardwalk loop, to more than ten miles. is accessible on foot or by paddle. Hit the Congaree River Blue Trail, a 50-mile designated recreational paddling trail that reaches downstreamĚýall the way from Columbia.

South Dakota

Custer State Park

When in South Dakota, head for the Black Hills. ’s 71,000 acres boast more than 500 climbing routes, miles of trails for hiking and mountain biking, and Sylvan Lake, a picturesque destination for swimming and paddle boarding beneath granite crags. The area is also known for its abundance of wildlife: birds, bison, and trout all flourish. You’ll find nine campgrounds as well as primitive camping in French Creek Natural Area, a sheer gorge surrounded by 2,200 acres of undeveloped pine and hardwood forestland.

Tennessee

Justin P. Wilson Cumberland Trail State Park

Perched atop the eastern Cumberland Mountains in southern Tennessee, the linear follows the trail of the same name from the Cumberland Gap to Signal Point, near Chattanooga.ĚýIt encompasses more than 210 miles of trailĚýand adjacent lands (and it’s growing!), with access to vistas, waterfalls, and deep gorges. and are popular sections for day hiking and climbing, while backpackers can reach remote campsites along the length of the trail. The 31,500-acre Cumberland Trail Park intersects three NPS territories, including the Obed Wild andĚýScenic River,Ěýthree major wildlife zones,Ěýand six locally managed natural regions, for a combined total of more than 330,000 acres of public lands.

Texas

Big Bend National Park

doesn’t get nearly the same visitation numbers as other parks in the system, perhaps due to its out-of-the-way location on the Mexico border, hours from the nearest major city. However, the park’s main attractions are jaw-dropping.ĚýFollow the Rio Grande back into the quiet depths of Santa Elena Canyon, and hike through fields of fragrant wildflowers while gazing up atĚýtowering red rock formations like Mule Ears. Bring a boat to float the Rio Grande, andĚýtoss your passport into your backpack—you can cross the international border to visit the Mexican town of Boquillas by ferry or walk across when the water level is low enough. During peak periods, escape into mountainous backcountry to backpack, or just post up at designated primitive car-camping sites, which are removed from the lion’s share of park traffic. End a long day in the Chihuahuan Desert Biosphere Reserve with a stroll down a pictograph-covered trail to take a dip at the hot springs under starry skies.

Utah

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

Skip the at the darlings of Utah’s park system—Arches, Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, and Zion—in lieu of . While theĚýMighty 5’s rocks are more famousĚý(Delicate Arch, for example, or Bryce’s otherworldly spires), you’llĚýsee many of the sameĚýtypes of formationsĚýat GSE. Get your fill of , bridges, hoodoos, and badlands as you hike, backpack, and camp the monument’s 1 million-plus acres. Its namesake, a 200 million-year-old geological staircase, separates the park into a series of cliff plateaus and has the most extensive network of slot canyons in the country. More popular, though, is the less remote Escalante Canyons area in the east, where visitors will find slickrock and swimming holes, like the 130-footĚýLower Calf Creek Falls.

Vermont

Smugglers’ Notch State Park

Christened for a narrow, 1,000-foot-tall rift through the Green Mountains, Ěýfeeds into the less dramatic but much larger Mount Mansfield State Forest. ItsĚý40,000Ěýacres have hiking—including the difficult climb up 4,400-foot Mount Mansfield, the state’s highest point—as well as bouldering, ice climbing, caving, and mountain biking.ĚýThe area isĚýpart of the greater Mount Mansfield Natural Area, a national landmark thatĚýfeatures extensive alpine tundraĚýand arctic plant lifeĚýthat’s rare in the Northeast.

Virginia

Shenandoah National Park

At 200,000 acres, dwarfsĚýall other parks in Virginia.ĚýBike the 105-mileĚýSkyline Drive, which traces the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains through the park.ĚýCheck out the area’s renowned and bouldering, or go fly-fishing on more than 70 streams. There are 196,000 acres of backcountry and wilderness, as well as 500-plus miles of trails leading throughĚýoak-hickory forest. When you get tired, pitch aĚýtentĚýat one of five campgrounds or in the backcountry.

Washington

North Cascades National Park

ĚýisĚýthe most heavily glaciatedĚýarea in the lower 48, with more than 300 glaciers in its arsenal. ItsĚýrugged terrain is home to elusive wildlife like lynx and wolverines, but people love itĚýtoo. FindĚýexcellent backpacking, numerous long road-biking routes—there are even two bicycle-specific campsites:Ěýsite A3 at Newhalem Creek Campground and site 115 at Colonial Creek South—and all types of climbing, from mountaineering to bouldering and sport climbing.ĚýBookĚýboat-inĚýor car-camping sites Ěýif you don’t want toĚýcarryĚýeverything on your back.

West Virginia

New River Gorge National River

is renowned for its whitewater, from the demanding Class III–V sections of the Lower Gorge to the canoe-friendly Class I rapids of the upper area. But the 70,000 acres of protected land adjacent to 53 miles of the New River areĚýalso optimal for land-based sports. There are 1,400-plus climbing routes, tons of options for , almost 100 miles of hiking trails, great fishing, and primitive campsites. Keep an eye out for wildlife like raptors, southern flying squirrels, kingfishers, and great blue herons.

Wisconsin

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore

ComprisingĚý12 square milesĚýof mainland and 21 islands, is home to 50 miles of maintained trails. In addition to striking sandstone cliffs and sandy beaches, the archipelago has rocky Ěýthat support unique ecosystemsĚýandĚýcaves that ice over in winter, creating a walkable attraction when Lake Superior freezes (though access is sometimes ). View lighthouses and scenic vistas on foot or by boat, or go divingĚýin Lake Superior. Camping is available on 19 of the Lakeshore’s 21 islandsĚýand at one campsite on the mainland. You might see bears, beavers, red foxes, mink, and otters.

Wyoming

Bridger Wilderness Area

While the Tetons get millions of visitors, the Wind River Range, just southeast, is a wilder gem. is truly spectacular, with more than 40 named peaks over 13,000 feet, including Gannett Peak (Wyoming’s highest) and Gannett Glacier, the largestĚýin the American Rockies. About 600 miles of trails crisscross the area, and while vehicles (including bikes) are not allowed in the wilderness zone, there’s plenty of room to ride in the surrounding Bridger-Teton National Forest.

Editor’s Note: We frequently update this parks guide, which was originally published on June 6, 2019.

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No wonder Teddy Roosevelt called the Grand Canyon “the one great sight which every American should see.” Walk to its edge, and the earth falls away into an expanse of peaks, plateaus, and gorges so vast it can be disorienting. Descend below the rim, and the sense of awe only grows. The canyon is essentially an inverted, 6,000-foot, 277-mile-long mountain range, where you are dwarfed by sheer stone walls stacked to the sky and vistas that multiply with every turn. In the desert landscape, the water can be the most astonishing sight. Turquoise streams rush whole out of rust red cliffsĚýand cascade through travertine pools. At the bottom of the canyon, of course, liesĚýthe engine of this great geological conundrum—the thrumming, persistent Colorado River, whichĚýcarved the gorge over millennia. If there’s a better place to gainĚýperspective on our own relative insignificance, I don’t know it.

But all this comes with a downside. The park gets crowded. visited in 2021 alone. Don’t let that stop you from planning a trip, though. Just a fraction of visitors bother to descend into the canyon itself, which means it’s easy to find solitude. But with 595 miles of established trails, 278 miles of river to float, and countless panoramas, historic sites, and overlooks to explore, it’s hard to know where to start. Here’s how to make the most out of an adventure to one of our country’s most rugged and iconic places.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting the Grand Canyon

Beware of the heat.

The interior of the canyon averages triple-digit highs June through August, and those temperatures contributed to in 2017 alone.ĚýSo unless you’re a reptile or riding in a raft, plan your visit for the other nine months of the year.

If a summer trip is your only option, head to the North Rim.

The North Rim gets about aĚýtenth of the visitorsĚýand,Ěýat an elevation of 8,297 feet,Ěýruns nearly ten degrees cooler than the South Rim.ĚýIn fact,Ěýall park amenities on the North Rim are closed November through April, and theĚýroad into the park closes in December—or earlier if enough snow falls—meaning you can only access the North RimĚýbyĚýhiking, snowshoeing, or cross-country skiing with a backcountry permit.

Be prepared for some paperwork and hope for some luck.

Many of the park’s best adventures, like camping in the backcountry, running your own trip down the Colorado’s rapids, or spending the night at the Phantom Ranch at the canyon’s bottom, require winning a lottery to land the necessary permits.

Rafting Permits in Grand Canyon National Park

If you know your way around an oar rig, the odds of winning a permit for a noncommercial river trip are notoriously difficult, especially for popular times like autumn and spring. For example, there were 459 applications to launch on September 18, 2019, alone. On the other hand, some days in December, when the days are short and the nights are cold, see no applicants at all. No matter your launch date, it costs $25 to apply for a permit. If you win, a Ěýmust be paid immediately andĚýis applied to yourĚýtrip’s final price tag, which will dependĚýon the size of your group.

Backpacking Permits in Grand Canyon National Park

Your odds for scoring are much better and only cost $10 per permit, plus $12 per person per night in the canyon or $12 per group above the rim. A word of note on this, though: the park’s reservation system is still dependent on pre-Y2K technology, meaning you have to apply via fax, regular mail, or in person. Your best chance for landing your dream hike is sending in a written application a little over four months before your planned trip during what’s called the earliest consideration period, which starts on the 20th of every month and runs through the first of the next. Trip applications submitted during this time are rewarded through a lottery. After that it’s first-come, first-served. Don’t fret if you don’t snag the spot you want, and definitely don’t cancel your trip. Most people don’t know it, but once you receive your permit, you can call the backcountry office to try and modify it. The nonprofit Grand Canyon Trust has a good explainer of the .

How to Get There

Grand Canyon National Park is split into two distinct zones divided by, well, the actual canyon. It’s a long four-and-a-half-hour drive to get from one rim to the other, so plan carefully. If you’re visiting the North Rim, it’s quickest to fly to Las Vegas, a four-and-a-half-hour drive from the park. If you are bound for the South Rim, from Phoenix it’s a three-and-a-half-hour drive, or you can splurge on one of the few daily flights into Flagstaff, Arizona, just an hour and a half south of Grand Canyon Village, the main hub for exploring the park. No car, or prefer not to drive? runs vans from Flagstaff to the village three times a day from May 15 to October 16.

Where to Stay In or Near the Grand Canyon

South Rim

is a landmark, not only for its location just steps from the canyon rim but also for its iconic architectural style, which influenced many of the National Park lodges that followed. Built in 1905, it’s worth taking a look at the log-sided lobby, even if you aren’t staying there. Like most NPS lodging, rooms are basic, expensive, and hard to come by (from $394). You’ll want to book a year in advance, especially if you covet one of the three balcony suites on the canyon side, which cannot be reserved online. You’ll have toĚýcallĚýthe hotel directly, and they’ll cost you double the regular room rate. There are , all pretty basic, and another half dozen in the town of Tusayan, just outside the park, about six miles from the rim.

For camping on the South Rim, your best bet is to headĚý25 miles east of Grand Canyon Village for the prized sunsets at . It runs $18 per night but is first-come, first-served, so plan to snag a site midmorning when campers are clearing out.

North Rim

Go for the Western Cabins at theĚý. With nothing between your front porch and the canyon but a few pine trees, cabins 301, 305, 306, and 309 are some of the best accommodations in the park ($271, open May 15 to October 15). If those are booked, grabbing an Adirondack chair from the main lodge’s veranda and settling in as the sunset washes the Deva, Brahma, and Zoroaster Temple buttes in flaming alpenglow is a solid second choice.

You can catch the same west-facing views at the ,Ěýa mile or so north of the lodge. Book sites 14 to 19, right on the rim, if you can, though they’re often reservedĚýa year in advance.

Canyon Floor Ěý

The Phantom Ranch, tucked into a shady cottonwood grove at the bottom of the chasm, in 2018, and entries are due a whopping 15 months ahead of your desired dates. If you don’t make the cut, try for a spot at the adjacent Bright Angel Campground, which requires a backcountry camping permit. You can still order meals from Phantom Ranch, which will lighten your load for the hike in.

The Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs in Grand Canyon National Park

Most park visitors never leave the developed enclave of Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim. They roll up in their rental car, park, stroll to the guardrailĚýrim, browse the gift shops, and then head to the next national park on their checklist. That’s not an exaggeration: the park estimates that the averageĚývisit lasts less than four hours. Even hopping on the free shuttles that stop for fresh views along the South Rim every mile or so isĚýenough to leave most of the horde behind. The farther you get from the visitorĚýcenter, the more the crowds thin out.

Biking Routes

Rent bikes from , locatedĚýnext to the visitor center, and cruise the South Rim. The Hermit Road winds seven miles along the rim from the village and is closed to private cars March through November, making it one of the most scenic cycling paths in the world. Or head east from the visitors center and link the bike path with the car-free Yaki Point Road. Jutting far into the canyon, Yaki Point is a popular spot to catch the sunset splashĚýrosy light across a 42-mile swath of canyon all the way from the Palisades of the Desert, 25 miles to the east,Ěýto Havasupai Point, 17 miles west.

Hiking Trails

For day outings, skip the South Rim’s well-trampled Bright Angel Trail, which drops into the canyon right at the village, and take the shuttle bus from thereĚýto the South Kaibab Trailhead. The seven-mile path, one of the best hiking trails in Grand Canyon National Park, descends 4,780 feet all the way to the river, but many people merely opt for the 1.8-mile round-trip to the comically named Ooh Aah Point. On the North Rim, the mild five-mile Widforss Trail winds along the rim and then ducks through ponderosa pine and aspen groves to Widforss Point, where you can catch views of sheer, jagged buttes like Wotans Throne and the Zoroaster Temple or the battlements of Transept Canyon.

Backpacking Trips

The remote, arduous may well be the Grand Canyon’s most astonishing backpacking trip. Start the 21-mile, three-day loop from the Bill Hall Trailhead at Monument Point (which shaves 2.5 miles off the traditional Indian Hollow Trailhead route), 34 miles down a sometimes impassable road from the North Rim town of Jacob Lake. It passes by Thunder River itself, a large creek that pours straight out of cave midway up the red canyon wall and tumbles down tiers of lush, vegetated pools. Don’t miss the chance to spend an afternoon exploring the twisting Deer Creek Narrows, or detour down the rafter’s trail to the river to check out the outlet of the narrows, 80-foot-high Deer Creek Falls.

The granddaddy of Grand Canyon hikes is going rim to rim, dropping all the way to the river, crossing the bridge at Phantom Ranch, and then climbing out the other side. Some break up the journey with a night at Phantom Ranch. Others prefer to knock it out in a day—the current record is two hours and 39 minutes.ĚýTo preserve knee cartilage, most people start at the lower South Rim, descendĚý4,460 feet on the Bright Angel Trail, and thenĚýascendĚý5,850 feet on the North Kaibab Trail to the North Rim Lodge, for a total of 21 miles. Some of theĚýmore ambitious hikers and runners goĚýrim to rim to rim, but for the one-way trip, you’ll need transportation back. If you can’t talk a friend into picking you up on the other side (a four-and-a-half-hour drive one-way), you can dropĚýa car off yourself and catch a ride back with the for $120.

Boating and Paddling

There are two ways to boat the Colorado River: by motorized raftĚýor in a human-propelled oar or paddle raft. I can’t recommend the former. The outboard engines feel like a violation of the river’s stretches of sublime silence, and the hugeĚý30-foot rafts—packed shoulder to shoulderĚýwith passengers—mute even the formidable whitewater.

The best way to experience the river is at its own pace,Ěýtaking on the towering waves of famous rapids like Crystal and Lava Falls in an 18-foot oar rig. You’ll drift for days through face-melting scenery, blast down hundreds of galloping rapids, and camp each night on sand beaches beneath a lane of bright stars. PlusĚýyou can packĚýsteaks and fresh veggies in coolers, chill beers beersĚýin drag bags in the river, and best of all, enjoy the complete lack of cell-phone reception. If you don’t have the experience or a permit to DIY, more than run river trips through the Grand Canyon, ranging in length from three to 18 days and costing around $2,000 to $6,000.

Where to Eat and Drink Near the Grand Canyon

If you’re driving up from Phoenix, stop in Flagstaff, a college town with a burgeoning food and brewery scene. For lunch, pop by for locally sourced beef patties served on English muffins, and grab a Blake, which features homemade Hatch-chile mayo, roasted green chilies, and sharp cheddar. Staying for dinner? The folks at say their fare is good for the soul—cast-iron cornbread, jambalaya, and slow-smoked barbecue are all on the menu.

Inside the park, dining options are mainly limited to large-scale concessionaires who win service-contract bids. , which runs most of the Grand Canyon’s restaurants, now sources 40 percent of its ingredients from sustainable or local vendors. At the El Tovar dining room, the signature prime-rib hash—which features Arizona-grown beef, cage-free eggs, bell peppers, and chipotle hollandaise sauce—should set you up for a descent into the canyonĚýand back.

Ěýin Grand Canyon VillageĚýsells Flagstaff-made baked goods, sandwiches, and coffee. The cinnamon pound cake is worth stashing in your pack for a midride snack.

Across the canyon, the view fromĚýthe veranda at theĚý makes for some of the best alfresco dining on the planet. From the dinner menu, try the wings, which are braised in spicy prickly pear cactus juice. Wash it down with Flagstaff-brewed beers named after park features, like the Phantom Ranch Red.

Just outside the park, the Meadows Edge Coffee Trailer, beside the , serves a blueberry-pomegranate smoothie and the canyon’s best latte. A little farther on, at the junction of 89A and HighwayĚý67, the Jacob Lake Inn is famous for itsĚý. There areĚý15 varieties on offer, including chocolate parfait and lemon zucchini with pecans.

If You Have Time for a Detour

While getting a permit to float through the Grand Canyon takes some doing, paddling 15 miles upstream fromĚýthe park into Marble Canyon requires no permits, fees, or reservations. Dogs are also allowed, so you can finally let the pups out of the van.

For camping, part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (the section of river between Lee’s Ferry and Glen Canyon Dam)Ěýcontains first-come, first-serveĚýsites. Or relatively strong paddlers can rent a kayak from in nearby Page, Arizona, and head upstream to campĚýin theĚýInstagram mecca that is . From the beach, you can just make out the silhouettes of the hordes on the rim.

Want to mountain bike at the park? You can’t. But the , on Forest Service land abutting the North Rim, has become theĚýgo-to destination for fat-tireĚýriders wanting to cozy up to America’s favorite abyss. Twenty-two miles of singletrack wind through ponderosa pine forests and meadows, occasionally popping out at the rocky rim for eyefuls of the Big Ditch. Most cyclists post up for a few daysĚýat dispersed car-camping spots like Locust Trailhead, midway on the route.

Editor’s Note: We frequently update this National Parks guide, which was originally published on Dec 4, 2018.

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It’s embarrassing to admit, but ten years ago, when I first started going to Joshua Tree National Park, I got lost. I’d been shuffling along, marveling at the sheer magnitude of the fractured monzogranite towers, when I realized that the trail had vanished. I clambered atop the nearest pile of bouldersĚýand took stock of the situation: an endless, undulating desert sparkling in the midday heat—and thankfully, a familiar beige ribbon in the not too far distance.

I offer this anecdote not to dissuade a visit, but to say that Joshua Tree is so mesmerizing that it’s pretty easy to get turned around out there. It’s also prettyĚýdamn vast. Originally home to the Cahuilla, Chemehuevi, Mojave,ĚýSerrano, and Western Shoshone peoples, the park contains nearly 800,000 acres, more than a third of them designated wilderness, and many of those trail-free, a siren call to anyone who might enjoy a little desert solitaire.

But this is no lonely swath of sand. The whole place is riddled with snaking canyons, hidden oases, and bulbous rocksĚýhosting a variety of wildlife, including bobcats, coyotes, jackrabbits, and the threatened Mojave desert tortoise. In addition, the Southern California park receives nearly three million visitors a year who fan across its dual regions—the more arid and remote Colorado Desert, to the east, and the higher-elevation and more heavily developedĚýMojave Desert, to the west. The latter is where you’ll find the highest concentrationĚýof the park’s Seussian namesake, which is not a tree at allĚýbut a monocot, a flowering plant that’s related to yucca.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Joshua Tree National Park

Beware the spiky chollas.

During one of my earliest Joshua Tree hikes, a spindly segment of pencil cholla pierced through the thick rubber of my boot soles. Not long after plucking it out, I accidentally kicked a hefty wad of TeddybearĚýCholla into my tender calf. This is to say: pay attention to your surroundings. Long sleeves and pants help prevent contact with pointy pests, but the importance of a kit featuringĚýa beefy set of pliers to pry off stems from shoesĚýcan’t be underestimated.

Prepare to put your navigational skills to the test.

Despite all the thorny traps, my favorite way to experience Joshua Tree is to ramble cross-country; for this, a good map and solid backcountryĚýskills are crucial. Spend a day finding your way to Quail Mountain, the park’s high point at 5,814Ěýfeet, and nearby , neither of which have developed trails to their summits. The latter is named for a woman who lobbied Franklin D. Roosevelt to designate the area as a national park; while it was first protected as a national monument, Hoyt’s wish was granted in 1994, almost 50 years after her death. The peaks are located several miles west of the Hidden Valley Picnic Area as the crow flies; several established off-trail routes exist from the north and the east, so dig into some research and consult a topo map before committing to a plan.

Embrace the golden hours.

Joshua Tree is pure magic during the wee hours. Light pollution is minimal, so the night skies absolutely sparkle.ĚýAugust is a stargazer’s delight during the Perseid meteor shower. Set your alarm to catch sunrise the next day.ĚýThe , located on Pinto Basin Road atĚýthe park’s center, and Ěý(boasting sight lines to the glittering Salton Sea and beyond), farther west at the end of Keys View Road, are especially picturesque at this time.

How to Get There

The nearest airport is , located less than an hour from the park’s quiet south entrance off Interstate 10. There’s not much in this area besides tumbleweeds and highway traffic, but you’ll findĚýĚýseven miles from the park’s southern entrance. ItsĚý62-siteĚýĚýis a less in-demandĚýoption thanĚýlodging within the parkĚýduring high season (from the end of August through early June, when it accepts reservations only, from $25), and has several hiking trails. Detour to , 25 minutes southeast ofĚýthe airport,Ěýfor a thick date shake to sweeten the drive.

The smallĚýbut colorful community of Joshua Tree is home to the west entrance and its namesake visitor center, although the park’s most popular features are about a 30-minute drive into the park. It’s most frequently used by visitors coming from Los Angeles.ĚýThe Ěýfrom Los Angeles InternationalĚýAirportĚýoffers plenty of diversions; it’s practically required to stop and snap a photo beside one of the famous —you’ll know them when you see them, especially if you’re a Pee-wee Herman fan.

The north entrance is located just below the city ofĚý, known for its Marine Corps base and vibrantĚýpublic murals. Enjoy the sights, then cool down with a stroll through the shady and adjacent . During high season, use this entrance to avoid long waits, and pay park fees at the visitor center for even faster entry.

What’sĚýthe Best Time of Year to Visit Joshua Tree?

While hearty locals and curious visitors cruise the park year-round (even during its sultry summer season, when temperatures often hit 100 degrees),Ěýcrowds swell in the more temperate fall and spring months, which maintain a rangeĚýof 50 to 85 degrees, dipping only during the harshest winter conditions, when it can get as low as 35 degrees.

Fall

Prime time begins in October, when temperatures downshift from summer’s triple-digit highs and visitors begin to pour in. You’ll likely have to jockey for parking at most established trailheads, so arrive early in the day. Campgrounds also fill up quickly, at least over the weekends, so have a backup plan—say, or springing for a hotel room—if you’re rolling up without a reservation.

Winter

The months of December and JanuaryĚýare mercurial: one day you’re playing lizard on a sunny rock, andĚýthe nextĚýyou’re swaddled in a pile of down. Layers are key. Biting winds, rainstorms, and snow showers aren’t uncommon, but the upside for those prepared for the finicky elements is that cold temperatures and precipitation keep the shoulder season’sĚýlarger crowds at bay (though you won’t be completely alone on trails or at camp).

Spring

Thanks to abundant wildflowers and mild temperatures, spring is the most popular season in Joshua Tree.ĚýJoshua trees begin sprouting their creamy blossoms in February, and bright splotches from blooming cacti and wildflowers—including the desert lily, sand verbena, and ocotillo—dot the desert floor through April.

Summer

A visit between May and September grants more solitudeĚýbut not without significant cost: temperatures often top 100 degrees. Come prepared with ample water, protective clothing, and perhaps even an umbrella or shade structure for your campsite. And take it easy—heat-related illnesses are common and sometimes prove fatal.

Where to Stay in Joshua Tree National Park

In the Park

Snagging a campsite in Joshua Tree is a competitive sport during peak seasons; no day of the week is easy, though the odds improve midweek. The Indian Cove, Black Rock, Jumbo Rocks, Ryan, and Cottonwood Campgrounds (from $20) are Hidden Valley, Belle, and White Tank are first-come, first-served (and some, including Belle and Ryan, with the latter two closed during the summer (from $15). My favorite of these is , a small and somewhat remote campground that’s a 20-minute drive from the park’s Twentynine Palms entrance on Pinto Basin Road. From camp, it’s a short walk along a half-mile nature trail to find excellent sunrise views at nearby Arch Rock. Dirtbags frequent the more centrally located for its proximity to primo climbing at massive Intersection Rock. Expect to make friends if you have climbing gear lying around.

Beyond the Park

If you strike out in the park, there’s (from $15), about 20 minutes north of the main entrance. It’s an affordable option that lacks the park’s iconic boulder piles but makes up for it with a small, serene fishing lake. Alternatively, you can set up on a checkerboard of BLM parcels scattered just below the southern entrance, off of Cottonwood Springs Road and Interstate 10. For less sandy digs, book a room at the charming (from $138), or bunk down in one of ten themed rentals at (from $115), something of a summer camp for adults thanks to amenities that include an archery range, Ping-Pong table, and mini-golf course. Both are a ten-minute drive from the park’s west entrance. Twentynine Palms boasts far more lodging. The (from $140) is one of its most unique, with lush landscaping, rustic cabins, colorful adobes, and an organic garden that’s harvested for an on-site restaurant. And Instagrammable Airbnb rentals abound along Highway 62, from rustic desert cabinsĚýto geodesic dome houses.

The Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs in Joshua Tree National Park

While driving around to ogle Joshua Tree’s iconic rock formations is a noble pursuit in itself, this playful landscape is best experienced on foot.ĚýBe sure to pack in all the water you’ll need,ĚýbecauseĚýthere’s very little available in the park beyond at the visitor centers and . And download any maps or apps ahead of time asĚýcell service is effectively nonexistent.

Hiking

The around Barker Dam, located off its namesake road in the north side of the park, is a family-friendly option that passes one of Joshua Tree’sĚýfew watering holes, a pond that nurtures plant life and risesĚýduring winter rains, which makes it one of the best sites to view migrating birds. At the dam site, look for an inscription in the concrete and a spiral-shaped trough below, remnants of the area’s cattle-ranching history. Farther ahead, an obvious turnoff leads to a cave decorated with petroglyphs.

Ten minutes south, on Park Boulevard, the popular to Ryan Mountain leads to can’t-miss views of the park’s western half, including the massive boulder piles that form the Wonderland of Rocks. For more solitude, depart from on the park’s quieter western edge for a 6.3-mile out-and-back hike to the summit of Warren Peak, a craggy promontory that offers front-row views of two SoCalĚýgems—San Gorgonio Mountain and Mount San Jacinto, often snowcapped from fall through spring.

Of course, no Joshua Tree experience is complete without a trip through its gold-loving past. The moderately difficult to Lost Horse Mine, located off Keys View Road, features the well-preserved remnants of aĚýsuccessful mine thatĚýgenerated the modern equivalent of $5 million worth of gold and silver ore during its heydayĚýas well asĚýexpansive vistas across the park’s southernmost reaches. For a longer alternative, set up a car shuttle to day-hike or backpack the 16-mile roundtrip Boy Scout Trail, which skirts the impressive Wonderland of Rocks and offers a side trip just over a mile from its southern terminus to visit Willow Hole, a seasonal water source and wildlife draw that rings its famed tree.

Climbing

The rock here is world-famous—and famously sandbagged—soĚýcheck your ego before chalking up. Winter and spring offer the grippiest rock, but that iconic grit will also chew the flesh right off your fingers, so pack plenty of tape and antibiotic ointment.

While it doesn’t have much to offer sport climbers, the park boasts thousands of slabby boulder problems and crack-laden trad routes spread far and wide.ĚýAĚýbike, car, or opposable thumb is necessary to get around. The Hidden Valley area is popular, due to its proximity to its namesake , but no matter where you climb, bring plenty of sun protection, approach shoes, and a level head.ĚýRunouts are common,Ěýas are surprisingly spicy walk-offs.

Robert Miramontes’sĚý is the book to carry if you’re dragging a crash pad.Ěý rents well-worn copies. For more hands-on instruction, consider taking a class or springing for a private guide from . You can also snag beta from rangers and fellow dirtbags at the Climbers CoffeeĚýsessions offered weekend mornings at during the high season.

Horseback Riding

While riding across an exposed, waterless desert isn’t for everyone, well-prepared equestrians (including those who hire the knowledgeable guides at , from $135 for 90 minutes) will be able to access over 250 miles of …horse-friendly paths, including a 37-mile chunk of the much larger California Riding and Hiking Trail, which stretches from Black Rock Campground in the park’s northwest corner to its north entrance near Twentynine Palms.

Bird-Watching

Pack your binoculars, bird nerds. Thanks to its location along the famous Pacific Flyway migration route, the park hosts over 250 species of songbirds, waterbirds, and raptors. Year-round, you’ll likely spotĚýquail, roadrunners, egrets, osprey, red-tailed hawks, and bald eagles. But visit in spring for max avian stoke.

Cycling

While singletrack is off-limits, bikes are allowed on all of Joshua Tree’s public roads. Stick to the dirt roadsĚýfor more solitude and adventure. Queen Valley Road, which begins just south of the , is a relatively chill cruise that leads to the trailhead for Desert Queen Mine. Lock your bike at the trailhead and hike in 1.5 miles to view the remains of historic stone buildings and mining equipment.ĚýFarther west, climb some 400 feet on remote Eureka Peak Road to reach its eponymous summit and excellent views. Check in with the folks at for additional recommendations and rentals.

Where to Eat and Drink Around Joshua Tree

The community of Joshua Tree, ten minutes north ofĚýthe park’s west entrance, is smallĚýbut mighty when it comes to eats; plus, everything is within walking distance of the town’s sole stoplight. I’ve spent more mornings than I can count hunched over a strong cup of joe (roasted by ; snag an excellent bag of beans at their storefront across the road) and a plate of salsa-slathered eggs and polenta at .

For lunchĚýI pull up a stool (and order a pint), then sink into a portobello burger at the . For lighter fare, it’s over to theĚýĚýfor a smoothie. On the rare occasion I’m not scarfing dinner by headlamp, I head straight to (these multitasking entrepreneurs also own a convenience store next door) for a belly full of curry.

Twentynine Palms offers a more expansive selection of eateries, including fast-food joints you won’t find in the town of Joshua Tree. Skip those in favor of , a cozy and creative eatery with Caribbean-inspired foodĚýlocated on Mesquite Avenue; it’s also a great place to hammer away at your keyboard if the need should arise. You don’t need to be a guest to enjoy an evening at ; grab a seat at the poolside bar and restaurant for cocktails and upscale comfort food, much of it crafted from itsĚýon-site garden.

If You Have Time for a Detour

South Entrance

If entering from the south, it’s worth the mileage to drop 30Ěýminutes down to the Salton Sea, a highly saline (and rapidly disappearing) lake formed accidentally at the turn of the 20th century when the Colorado River flooded an existing irrigation system. There’s a visitor center and campground on its north shore at the , which offers great bird-watching, with several hundred species of feathered friends making their way through on their winter migrations. Forty minutes southeast of here sits , a vibrant folk-art installation with religious overtones and pop-culture connotations. The site served as aĚýbackdrop for a memorable scene in the film adaptation of Into the Wild.

West Entrance

The long stretch of Highway 62 between Morongo Valley and Twentynine Palms offers plenty of diversions and deserves at least a full day of your itinerary. Heading east, begin with a saunter around the lush , a major stopover on the Pacific Flyway and part of the , to enjoy the very rare sight of desert wetlands. From there, drive ten minutes to caffeinate at ’s rustic , then veer northĚýa few minutes more to sit a spell at the rustic , equal parts dive bar, BBQ joint, and world-class music venue (I highly recommend making dinner reservations and scoring show tickets as itsĚýoutdoor stage is unforgettable, no matter who’s playing). Farther north, in tiny Landers,Ěýmake an appointment well ahead of time to align your chakras to the dulcet tones of a sound bath at the (from $50), a domed structure that sits on a geomagnetic vortex in the Mojave Desert. Closer to the park’s Joshua Tree entrance, trace a series of dusty roads to arrive at the (free of charge, open sunrise to sunset), an immersive homage to its namesake creator, who used discarded materials to concoct fantastical sculptures.

How to Be Conscious

Judging from the news coverage of vandals running amok, you’d think Joshua Tree was overrun with trash and criminals. While some damage has occurred over the years, the impacts were mitigated by local groups, including and the , whichĚýtake stewardship seriously, and aside from occasional sprays of graffiti, most visitors doĚýas well.

The park’s ecosystems are fragile, so enter with a spirit of respect, and research seasonal restrictions. If you venture off-trail, take care to avoid trampling underfoot. This dark and delicate crust, which traps rainfall and provides structural stability, is comprised of living organisms and can take years to rebuild once crushed.

In more well-traveled areas, look out for climbing and overnight-camping restrictions, which are frequently enacted to protect nesting raptors and desert bighorn sheepĚýas well asĚýallow wildlife unfettered access to precious water resources. On the subject of climbing: any bolting, even the replacement of existing hardware, requires permits, and power drills are not allowed in the wilderness. The place is packed with traces of human history—petroglyphs, pictographs, shelters, mines, mills, and beyond, which endure damage over time just from human touch.

Editor’s Note: We frequently update this National Parks guide, which was originally published on Oct 28, 2019.

The post The Ultimate Joshua Tree National Park Travel Guide appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

I first saw the Everglades more than 30 years ago, as a kid from Chicago dragged along by my parents. Buggy, hot, and flat, what I laid eyes on then was a sodden grassland, and I wasn’t much impressed. But there’s a reason the Glades remained wild well after the continent had been “conquered,” why the migrant Seminoles were able to hide so long in its redoubts from the U.S. Army. Even today, this national park is massive. Its 1.5 million mostly inaccessible acres make it the third-largest national park in the lower 48 after Death Valley and Yellowstone. Now, after living on its doorstep for 20 years, I’ve become enthralled with its untamed nature.

A catch-all term for many different ecosystems, the Everglades once stretched more than 200 miles, from the Kissimmee River in Orlando, south past Lake Okeechobee, to the state’s southernmost tip and the Gulf of Mexico. Today the national park preserves just 20 percent of that, and cities, suburbs, and agricultural land abut its very edges. But the preserved Glades are as wild as it gets. Crocodiles and alligators, the Florida panther, manatees, and a vast number of flora, fauna, and invasive species of all sorts call the place home. Fragile and always changing, this Unesco World Heritage site is under threat of real inundation as sea levels rise, as well as from red tide and blue-green algae blooms (possibly caused by agricultural runoff), which have been devastating in recent years. The Glades are also a premier dark-sky zone, a sanctuary for migratory birds and raptors, and a refuge to get absolutely lost and forget the modern world exists at all. Here’s our guide to the Everglades on how to do just that.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Everglades National Park

There are two main seasons in the Everglades:Ěýthe wet and the dry. From April to October, it is so hot and humid that even short excursions can be draining, and some park facilities, such as the remote Flamingo VisitorĚýCenter, are staffed only intermittently. I’ve found myself wiping masses of mosquitos off my bloody arms in summer, and the no-see-ums can be even worse, driving the stoutest of hearts bonkers. The upshot is that there are fewer crowds during these months. The dry season, which runs November through March, can be idyllic and mild. But whatever the season, pack bug repellent or netting, and be prepared for drenching rain.

Surrounding the park, especially its western parameters, are small, interesting townsĚýlike Everglades City, which some of the fabled Gladesmen—non-native people who managed to decipher the mysteries of the swamp and carve out frontier lives for themselves—still call home. The Everglades City area was so lawlessĚýin the recent past that bales of cocaine and marijuana were alleged to have regularly washed up on the shore. In 2017, Hurricane Irma tore through the area, and the people who live there are still recovering.

Finally, there’s no better way to prepare for a journey to the park than to pick up a copy of by the late journalist and conservationist Marjory Stoneman Douglas. A seminal work on South Florida’s unique ecology, the book was published in 1947, the same year the Glades were designated a national park. The ecosystem was not seen as something worth saving by the many developers who drained and ditched this region all through the 20th century. That a significant part of the Everglades remains is due in large part to Douglas’s activism.

How to Get There

The Glades are so expansive that seven airports serve asĚýaccess points. Though some require longer drives than others, none are more than four hours away (and most much less). So it’s best to pair your arrival city with other things you might like to do: Orlando has theme parks; Tampa and Miami, nightlife and museums; Sarasota, Fort Myers, and Naples, fine dining, golf, and charter fishing; and Key West, Hemingway kitsch, history, and endless margaritas.

Once you choose your airport, there are three main entrances and four visitor centers, as well as an information station in the park. The Shark Valley and Ernest F. Cole VisitorĚýCenters and the Royal Palm Information Station and Bookstore—all easily accessed from Miami—are close to civilizationĚýon the park’s east sideĚýand offer ranger-led programs. Shark Valley’s 45-foot-tall, 360-degree observation tower is a popular stop. On the park’s west side, in Everglades City, the Gulf Coast Visitor Center is easily accessed from Naples and is the best entry point for the coastal Ten ThousandĚýIslands region, a birding, fishing, and kayaking paradise. There’s also the Flamingo Visitor Center on Florida Bay, on the park’s far southern tip, accessibleĚýby car from MiamiĚýor by boat from the state’sĚýeast and west coasts.

Road access is straightforward. On the west side, U.S. Route 41 is the only road in from Tampa, Sarasota, FortĚýMyers, orĚýNaples. From Miami, U.S. Route 41 and Florida State Road 9336, which turns into Main Park Road, areĚýthe main points of entry. From Orlando, either side is equally convenient. But no matter where you’re coming from, if you want to explore the west coast, where the river of grass meets the sea, it’s easiest to bring your own canoe or kayak or rent one in Everglades City at the . Beware: the waters are shallow, and the underwater environment is fragile. If you get stuck in the mud, you’ll have to get out of your boat and push, which tears up the underwater seagrass habitat. Depth finders should be used, and knowledge of tides and nautical maps and an awareness of vulnerable manatees are also essential.

Where to Stay In or Near the Everglades

Despite the park’s massive size, traditional front-country camping and RV services are limited to just two sites inside the park. Long Pine Key Campground, near the Royal Palm Information Station, is only open November through May ($30 per night, no electric hookups available), while Flamingo Campground is open all year ($30 per night, $45 for electric hookups) and offers watercraft rentals. Reservations are recommended during the dry season.

There’s plenty of Gulf of Mexico beach camping on the park’s west coast, and much of the park is only accessible by canoe, kayak, or flatboat, so backcountry campers will be rewarded with solitude like few other places left in the U.S. But you must take trip planning seriously and pack your canoe or kayak with enough food and water for the length of your excursion. You’ll also need to know how to orient yourself with GPS and nautical maps—it’s easy to get lost in this landscape of repetitive landmarks. Backcountry camping permits are only issued on a first-come, first-served basis in person at the Flamingo and Gulf Coast Visitor Centers ($21 fee, plus $2 per day).

If you like a bed and shower, Everglades City is a great base camp. The town has a museum, restaurants, and an eclectic assortment of hardy inhabitants. Places to stay include (from $129) and the cottages at the turn-of-the-century (from $125). Longer-stay self-catering options include the (from $109), great for large groups, and the waterfront one- and two-bedroom cabins at (from $130). You can also rent kayaks and gear at Ivey House, take swamp-buggy tours, and hire park-approved fishing charters and guides to lead you into the Glades.

The Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs in Everglades National Park

Most of the park’s one million annual visitors don’t penetrate much farther than a visitor-center walking tour, but the Glades offer myriad activities for those willing to brave the maze-like waters, tall grasses, and mangrove isles. Whatever activities you choose, they’ll all have at least one thing in common: you’re probably going to get wet.

Bird-Watching Ěý

If you’re a birder, there is no better place in the country to check off your life list than the Everglades, which boasts more than 360 of the winged species. Just pick a bird on your list—for me it is always the skittish and pink-hued roseate spoonbill—and in the Glades you know you are going to see it. Snowy egrets and wood storks are everywhere, osprey—and the bald eagles that steal their fish—circle overhead, and if you find a lucky spot in the mangroves, flock after flock of curved-beaked ibis will zip over your head as they head home to roost in the evenings. Keep an eye out for black skimmers, a shorebird that is making a rebound; you’ll know them as the seagull-like birds with an incredible underbite that seem to have no eyes at all because of their black and white coloration. Reserve tickets online for the to see wading birds, like limpkins. Kayakers can turn a corner in the islands and mangroves and happen upon a rookery that’s filled shoulder to shoulder with hundreds of birds: ibis, herons, egrets, wood storks, anhingas, and cormorants galore, and the spring- and fall-migration periods will offer you dozens of species a day without any struggle. Even if you never leave your car, you’ll see birds. That’s the charm of the Glades.

Paddling

Launch your canoe or kayak at either the Flamingo or Gulf Coast Visitor Centers for a day trip or a two-week expedition. Between the two points are 100 miles of interconnected, watery wilderness, backcountry campsites, and a few marked canoe trails to help keep you from getting lost. The 5.2-mile loop through the grass marshes and mangrove islands around is a favorite for day-trippers. Still, thoseĚýwho lose their way keep park rangers busy with regular rescues. If you want an expert to lead you, based in Everglades City, offers excellent, private ecotours.

The water is murky and full of creatures that will splash near your craft. Don’t worry, the usual cause ofĚýcommotion is not alligatorsĚýbut mullet, a fish that schools here and is an important part of the food chain. For some reason that scientistsĚýstill don’t understand, the foot-long, thick-bodied fish loves to leap out of the water, and it happens all day long. You will see gators, but they’ll leave you alone. That said, I keep my distance from any reptile longer than I am tall. If you camp on the beach, don’t tread on sea turtle nests, and if you paddle or boat along the coast, you will at some point be accompanied by dolphins.

Fishing Trip

There are nearly 300 species of fish here, and the first step to landing them is to get a license online at the Ěý(the park itself has some special regulationsĚý). Light tackle is fine for freshwater areas. I use crawlers and land plenty of panfish, catfish, and bass. Unfortunately, you’re also likely encounter the invasive Southeast Asian walking catfish, a creature that can “walk”Ěýon its front fins overland to infest ever more bodies of water. If you catch one, you can release it. But if you decide to keep one, by law it must be killed.

In the brackish water ofĚýthe mangroves, anything can happen, and you never know what you’ll hook, from the delicious and gorgeous black-lined snook to equally delicious sheepshead and snapper. I use live shrimp for bait both hereĚýas well as out in the saltwater. If you want to land a tarpon, one of the region’s premier saltwater game fish, heavier tackle and wire leaders are musts, and it’s better to go out with a guide. They have the local knowledge and all the expensive gear that will improve yourĚýchance of tight lines.

One of the great joysĚýof my life was learning to throw a ten-foot, lead-skirted net for mullet. It isn’t easy, but all the local guides can offer lessons for the determined and interested. These fish will not take a hook, but if you have the shoulder and core strength to throw the net, it’s a true South Florida experience, and you can haul in a biblical bounty of these delicious silver beauties.

Everglades City remains a fishing paradise, as it was not hit by the red tide that ravaged the state in 2018. Fishing guides of note includeĚý andĚý, thoughĚýas Kathy Brock, publisher of Everglades City’s newspaper, The Mullet Rapper, notes, “All our guides here are good. They can’t survive if they’re not.”

Hiking Trails

Short, interpretive trails are offered at all of the park’s visitorĚýcenters, but while wonderful and easy, they won’t satisfy those looking for a demanding, all-day trek. For that, head to the —accessed from Royal Palm—for a 20-mile round-trip trek in absolute solitude on what was once a paved roadĚýbut has long since fallen into wild decay. —accessed from Flamingo—is a 15-mile round-trip that offers backcountry camping at Clubhouse Beach. The campsite requires a permit obtained at the Flamingo Visitor Center.

Ecotours

If you’reĚýpressed for time or want a better understanding of the Glades’ ecosystem, sign up for a guided airboat tour. On the park’s northern edge, just off U.S. 41, three park-approved airboat companies—,Ěý, andĚý—will take you into areas adjacent to the parkĚý(airboats are not allowed in the park itself due toĚýthe risk of damagingĚýfragile submerged flora), schooling you on the region’s unique environments as you go.

Where to Eat and Drink Near the Everglades

Shop around in Everglades City, and find a menu that offers smoked mullet. It tastes like a moist, jerky delicacy. Restaurants include the year-round and as well as the seasonal (closed in summer). Also look for any menu that offers wild hog. The first Spanish explorers to Florida brought domesticated Iberian pigs with them as walking meat lockers. Some escaped, and now more than half a million feral hogs call Florida home. In Spain, these animals were raised on acorns and are to this day considered the highest-quality meat in that country. Here on this peninsula, they roam free in the Everglades, tearing up the environment with their bulldozer-like snouts, which means their meat is both delicious and good for the environment.

Stone crab season runs October to May. After taking just one claw from these thick-shelled crustaceans, fishermen throw the living crabs back into the water, where they will regenerate the missing claw over three years. All the local restaurants feature them.

Speaking of crab, I prefer the blue variety, which you can catch in the mangroves. Don’t bother with a trap (though you can set up to five if you insist). Just cast out any hunk of meat on a hook, and as soon as your line goes tight, reel it in very slowly: the crabs are so greedy that they won’t let go. All you’ll need is a dip net. Sex them on capture, and release any females. Males have a thin, narrow “apron”Ěýon their undersides, while females’ aprons are wide and triangular. There’s no special permit requiredĚýand no better backcountry meal.ĚýThey’re delicious boiled live in a pot.

If you can, plan your trip for early February when Everglades City hosts its annual Its post-Irma resilience was on full display in 2018 as more than 60,000 people descendedĚýto show their support and eat local seafood of every variety while enjoying the live local music.

If You Have Time for a Detour

If you fly into Orlando, stop by Eatonville, a town founded by African Americans at the turn of the 19th century and now consumed by Orlando’s sprawl. It’s the site of the writer Zora Neale Hurston’s acclaimed novel Their Eyes Were Watching God,Ěýwhich has many scenes set in the Everglades and chronicles the 1928 hurricane, during which the banks ofĚýLake Okeechobee overflowedĚýinto the Glades,ĚýkillingĚý2,500 Floridians, including many poor African Americans. Like Stoneman’s The Everglades, Hurston’s novel should be read in advance of any visit to the Glades. Popular attractions include the Zora Neale Hurston National Museum of Fine Arts and, in late January, the popularĚý, which has been celebrated for more than 30 years.

Those who find themselves in the Keys should be sure to hike the trails of the In ecological terms, a hammock is a type of habitat found in the region’s higher, drier elevations, and this park is home to one of the largest remaining West Indian tropical-hardwood hammocks in the world. In Key West, hop on the for aĚýride over to Garden Key and Dry Tortugas National Park. Explore imposing Fort Jefferson before paddling a rental kayak to Loggerhead Key to camp on the island or dive the Windjammer, a 19th-century shipwreck. AndĚýoff the coast of Summerland Key is Looe Key Reef, my favorite place to dive in the Keys. Part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, thisĚýis a special sanctuary preservation area. Corals are under threat all across the region due to climate change and ocean acidification, but Looe Key teems with corals and fish and reminds us of how things once were.

The Tamiami Trail, aĚý60-mile stretch of U.S. 41 that cuts right across Florida from east to west along the northern edge of the Everglades, offers campgrounds and RV parks. You’ll also find many federally recognized Miccosukee Indian villages, recognizable by their thatched homes and security gates. At Miccosukee Indian Village andĚýAirboats, you can watch demonstrations of wood carving, beadwork, basket weaving, and doll making as well as taste unique dishes like fry and pumpkin breads and frog legs or witness alligator demonstrations. During the last week of December, the Miccosukee also host theĚýIndian Arts andĚýCrafts Festival.

The trail is also home toĚý’s Big Cypress Gallery. Known as the Ansel Adams of the Everglades, the storied photographer—who is a friend of mine and many other South Florida environmentalists—struggled to support his family and make a living most of his life. But following the death of his 17-year-old son, in 1986, Butcher stepped into the Everglades to heal and produced his now iconic black and white photographs of the region’s wild places. TodayĚýeven Queen Elizabeth owns one of his prints. His gallery, located almost halfway between Naples and Miami, offers guest stays and walking tours. If you’reĚýlucky, Butcher will be there during your visit. In failing health, he’s still a library of information about the history of the conservation work that made the preservation of the Everglades possible.

Editor’s Note: We frequently update this National Parks guide, which was originally published on May 13, 2019.

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Welcome to What You Missed,Ěýour daily digest of breaking news and topical perspectives from across the outdoor world. You can also get this news delivered to your email inbox six days a week by for the What You Missed newsletter.Ěý

On Thursday the Senate to confirm Charles “Chuck” Sams III to serve as director of the National Park Service. The decision makes Sams the first Native American to lead the NPS in its 105-year history.

Sams is a veteran of the U.S. Navy and a member of the Confederate Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation. After the vote, Oregon senator Ron Wyden, a Democrat, praised Sams in a public statement.

“Chuck Sams is the right nominee to lead the National Park Service as it addresses these challenges. I know Chuck. He is hardworking. He is committed,” Wyden said. “Chuck is a role model in the stewardship of American land and waters, wildlife and history. And now thanks to the Senate’s unanimous decision to confirm his nomination, Congress and park-goers will have someone steady and experienced to rely on in the years ahead.”

Sams faces a long list of challenges in the role, from a surge in public visits to the agency’s yearslong struggle with harassment and abuse. In August, şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř contributor Wes Siler wrote about the hurdles Sams would confront were he to take over the agency. Siler also interviewed former NPS director Jon Jarvis for perspective.

The NPS has been without a director for more than four years, leading to during the Trump administration. But Jarvis believes Sams now has an opportunity to reinvent it.

“There’s money for the maintenance backlog, there’s a sympathetic administration, and there’s public interest,” Jarvis said. “The Park Service will be vital to achieving Biden’s climate change and infrastructure goals, too.”

Canadian Police Arrest Protestors Supporting Indigenous Resistance to Pipeline

Yesterday Canadian police in northern British Columbia blocking access to a construction site of a multibillion-dollar natural-gas pipeline. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) said it arrested 14 protestors manning a barricade along a service road to the Coastal GasLink pipeline just outside Houston a town some 600 miles north of Vancouver. , the barricade was erected by members of the local Wet’suwet’en and Haudenosaunee Nations.

The RCMP said protestors were violating a court-ordered injunction from 2019 barring any obstruction to the road.

But chiefs of the Wet’suwet’en say they have not granted permission for the pipeline to cross their territory. The pipeline is supposed to travel under the Wedzin Kaw River—a primary source of water for the tribe—and a camp of protestors is still occupying one drill site near the river.

“Drilling under the headwaters would be disastrous for our drinking water. We currently drink right out of the river,” said one protestor, Molly Wickham. “Protecting the river is critical to our livelihood.”

Acts of civil disobedience against extraction industries have succeeded in British Columbia. In September, the province’s supreme court ordered police to stand down from the Fairy Creek blockade, a 14-month protest against a logging operation on southwestern Vancouver Island.

Let It Snow

Looks like locals in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, are trying to will Mother Nature to .

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