Italy Archives - ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online /tag/italy/ Live Bravely Thu, 06 Feb 2025 03:17:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Italy Archives - ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online /tag/italy/ 32 32 The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World /adventure-travel/destinations/long-walks-world/ Mon, 27 Jan 2025 10:30:25 +0000 /?p=2694715 The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World

Weā€™re not talking about big thru-hikes, but extended pathways through glorious landscapes in some of the most stunning places in the world

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The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World

Iā€™ve tackled sections of the Pacific Crest Trailā€”backpacking, day hiking, and trail runningā€”but to think of taking months off to complete all 2,650 miles of this trail, which climbs mountain passes and traverses remote California, Oregon, and Washington, feels overwhelming. A long-distance walk, on the other hand, feels more manageable, like something any of us could pull off, given some time. They mostly involve days and weeks rather than many months, and are at more consistent elevations.

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Iā€™m not talking about a mountainous thru-hike where you plan out food caches and sleep on the ground. Iā€™m talking about a meandering or purposeful walk that goes on for days, weeks, or maybe months. A big commitment, yes. A physical feat for sure. A mental and emotional pilgrimage of sorts. But not so strenuous that most people couldnā€™t do it, building up their mileage.

These long walks, on byways and moderate terrain, are more like scenic tours of spectacular landscapes, or adventurous journeys through cities and forests. They are not so much to be completed as experienced.

And I think they’re the most beautiful in the world.

1. Best Urban Trail

Empire State Trail, New York

Empire State Trail, New York, passes George Washington Bridge over the Hudson River
The Manhattan Greenway section of the New York State Empire Trail. This stretch runs under the George Washington Bridge, passing the Little Red Lighthouse. (Photo: Courtesy NYSDED)ĢżĢż

It took four years to link up and complete the entire , one of the longest multi-sport pathways in the United States, officially finished in late 2020. The route runs 750 miles across the state of New York, from New York City north to the Canadian border and from Albany west to Buffalo. Three quarters of the trail is on off-road pathways. You can walk on converted rail trails through the Hudson River Valley, stroll beside the historic Erie Canal, or move through wetlands and fields along Adirondack Park and Lake Champlain. Eventually the trail will include a 200-mile greenway across Long Island; construction of the first 25 miles of that section begins this year.

Empire State Trail starts in downtown New York
One end of the New York Empire State Trail is, of course, in Manhattan. (Photo: Courtesy NYSDED)

Pick a section of this largely urban route, which is also popular with bicyclists, and walk it one direction, then hop on a train back to where you startedā€”Amtrak stations are located in 20 towns and cities along the way. Find community with others traveling the trail or seek tips on good trailside lodging or camping from .


Donā€™t Miss:Ģż ĢżMore than 200 craft breweries dot the Empire State Trail, in an aggregate known as the . Get a brewery passport and pick up stamps at the places along the way to earn rewards like a T-shirt or cooler bag. In the Hudson Valley, spend a night at (from $195), which has cabins, canvas tents, and a cedar sauna just a short walk from the trail.

ĢżĢż

2. Best Pilgrimage

El Camino de Santiago, Spain

El Camino de Santiago
A walker on El Camino de Santiago encounters miles of green, interspersed with fields of red poppies, on the way to Santo Domingo de laĢżCalzada, Spain. (Photo: Pam Ranger Roberts)

Each year, over 300,000 people embark upon sections of this legendary pilgrimage, on a network of trails dating back to pre-medieval times and roadways that vary from cobbled to paved. The most popular route is the Camino Frances, a 500-mile pathway that starts in St. Jean Pied de Port, France, and takes travelers about four to five weeks to walk, passing through the Pyrenees mountains and La Rioja wine region, La Meseta arid range, and through eucalyptus forests into Galicia and Santiago itself. The Camino Portugues, heading up the northern coast of Portugal is another top choice, stretching between 140 and 380 miles depending on your starting point, and crossing through fishing villages such as the UNESCO Heritage Listed cities of Lisbon and Porto. No matter which route you choose, all roadsĢżon the Camino lead to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain, where the remains of the Apostle Saint James the Great are allegedly buried.

12th century bridge of Ponte Maceira, on the Camino Finisterre, Spain
Between Santiago de Compostela and Finisterre (from Latin terms for ā€œthe end of the earthā€) on the Camino de Finisterre, which takes pilgrims to the Galician Coast of Spain, is the medieval bridge of Ponte Maceira. Legend holds that the bridge collapsed behind the followers of St. James as they fled Roman soldiers. (Photo: Pam Ranger Roberts)

You can walk the Camino year-roundā€”the most popular season is mid-summerā€”but aim for spring or fall for mild temperatures and fewer crowds, and be aware that many lodges and albergues close in winter ). offers guided walks on the Camino through Portugal and Spain lasting from a week up to 22 days (from $1,436), or, if youā€™d rather go on your own, has self-guided options (from $718).

Donā€™t Miss: Once you reach Santiago de Compostela, head to the Pilgrimā€™s Office for your official stamp of completion, having received a pilgrimā€™s passport from your entry point to be stamped along the way. Bagpipes will be playing nearby as you enter the gates of the holy Santiago de Compostela.ĢżThe cathedral has a Pilgrimā€™s Mass at noon and 7:30 p.m. daily; go early if you want a seat. On , await the ancient ritual of the swinging brass Botafumeiro, or cauldron, which is filled with incense and coal and so heavy eight men are required to move it.

3. Best Waterfront Route

Stockholm Archipelago Trail, Sweden

Stockholm Archipelago Trail, Sweden
The Stockholm Archipelago Trail only opened this past autumn. While traditionally visitors have stayed close to the beautiful capital city of Stockholm and the islands near it, the trail invites them into the outer archipelago. (Photo: Courtesy Henrik Trygg/Visit Sweden)Ģż

Opening in October 2023, the 167-mile connects new and existing pathways across 20 islands in the Stockholm Archipelago, the largest archipelago in Sweden and home to over 30,000 islands. To walk the whole thing, youā€™ll need to use a series of public ferries and private boat taxis. You can also pick a section and just walk a few islands at a time; each has an average of about nine miles of trails. Youā€™ll travel along gravel roads, forest paths, and beaches, and through remote fishing and farming communities.

Along the way, camp or stay in hotels or B&Bs. offers a seven-day, self-guided journey on the trail (from $1,095) in spring, summer, or fall that includes lodging in locally owned hotels, luggage transfer, and daily routes that max out at about nine miles.

Stockholm Archipelago Trail with island, inlet and lighthouse
Sweden is known for its lighthouses, the oldest dating back to 1689 and originally lit with a real fire. (Photo: Courtesy Roger Borgelid/Visit Sweden)

Donā€™t Miss: On the island of Tranholmen, a celebrated chef named David Enmark opens up his home to diners every Friday nightā€”. Or visit the island of Furusund, which contains about five miles of trail and is site of a famed 19th-century summer resort, now a 16-room boutique hotel: the (rooms from $121), which welcomes guests who arrive by boat or on foot.

4. Best for History Buffs

Lycian Way, Turkey

aerial view of Lycian Way, coast of Lycia, southern Turkey
The Lycian Way is a signed footpath curving around the coast of Lycia in southern Turkey. Parts of it date back to the time of the invading Alexander the Great and the Persians, with their Greek influence. Later, Lycia became part of the Roman Empire, as seen in its many ancient Roman ruins. (Photo: Courtesy Montis)

Traversing the rocky Mediterranean coast of southwestern Turkey, the 472-mile Lycian Way winds through the ancient maritime republic known as Lycia. Mountains rise from the turquoise sea as the route follows old roads, footpaths, and mule trails through long-gone civilizations. Youā€™ll pass by lighthouses, beaches, historic sites like Roman amphitheaters and rock tombs, and lagoons over underwater ruins of sunken cities that can be toured by boat.

Most people take on just a section of the Lycian Way. has five- to 14-day guided tours (from $1,187) that include lodging and luggage transfer, or leads seven-day treks (from $995) with an English-speaking guide. Best to do this historical walk in spring or fall, from February to May or from September to November to avoid the high heat of summer.

Lycian Way over the Mediterranean
The Lycian Way takes mainly old Roman roads and mule trails on the southern Mediterranean coast of Turkey. (Photo: Courtesy Montis)Ģż

Donā€™t Miss: °Õ³Ü°ł°ģ±š²āā€™s illuminates Lyciaā€™s ancient capital city of Patara after dusk, making it a magical place to explore by night. Best lodging on the trail: the (from $240), built in 2005 on a hillside, has glass windows, viewing hammocks, and saunas overlooking the Aegean Sea.

5. Best for Conservationists

John Muir Way, Scotland

John Muir Way across Scotland
The John Muir Way, a coast-to-coast trail across central Scotland and up into the Highlands, is named for the American wilderness preservationist and author, who was born here. (Photo: Courtesy John Muir Trust)

Not to be confused with Californiaā€™s more demanding John Muir Trail, the is a relatively new route (established around 10 years ago) that stretches coast to coast across Muirā€™s home country of Scotland. This 134-mile walk begins in the western waterfront town of Helensburgh, where quotes from the famed Scottish-American environmentalist mark a commemorative stone bench. The trek ends around 10 days later in the eastern seaside town of Dunbar, where Muir was born in 1838.

Dirleton Castle, East Lothian, Scotland.
The route passes the ruins of the medieval Dirleton Castle, in the village of Dirleton, East Lothian. The castle welcomes trekkers and is a stamping point for the John Muir Way passport. (Photo: Courtesy John Muir Trust)

On the way, youā€™ll walk through the cobbled streets of the capital city of Edinburgh, along the shores of , and by the Falkirk Wheel, a rotating boat lift in central Scotland. has self-guided itineraries (from $1,827) for the entire route, including accommodations.


Donā€™t Miss: Stay in (from $417), a restored 16th-century castleĢżjust off the trail 20 miles east of Edinburgh. The trailā€™s eastern terminus is at Muirā€™s birthplace, a humble three-story home in Dunbar thatā€™s now a historic and free to visit.

6. Best for Self-Reflection

Shikoku Pilgrimage, Japan

pilgrimage island of Shikoku
The Shikoku Temple Pilgrimage is one of the world’s few circular pilgrimages, visiting 88 temples and other sacred sites associated with the venerated Buddhist monk KÅ«kai, who founded the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism. (Photo: Courtesy Shikoku Tourism)

This circular walk across the Japanese island of Shikoku visits 88 temples and sacred sites where the Buddhist saint known as KÅ«kai is thought to have trained in the 9th century. The entire route is about 745 milesā€”mostly using roads, but also on select mountain trailsā€”and takes around six weeks to walk. Or you can choose just a section.

The traditional approach starts at the first temple, Ryōzenji, in Tokushima prefecture and proceeds clockwise until you reach the last temple, Ōkuboji, in Kagawa prefecture. Many pilgrims dress in traditional attire, including a white cotton robe, scarf, and straw hat, and carrying a walking stick; they also carry pilgrimsā€™ books, to be stamped after worshipping at each temple. leads an eight-day tour of the pilgrimage (from $2,303), where youā€™ll walk up to eight miles daily with an English-speaking guide, staying at guesthouses and temple lodging.

Donā€™t Miss: One of the hardest temples to reach is number 21, Tairyuji, or Temple of the Great Dragon. You can ride the tram to reach this mountaintop temple or hike to the site on a steep three-mile trail through limestone rocks and an ancient cedar forest. There youā€™ll climb a marble staircase leading into the temple gates and visit a bronze statue of KÅ«kai meditating.

7. Best for Wildlife Spotting

Yuraygir Coastal Walk, Australia

Yuraygir Coastal Walk, Australia
This 40-mile, point-to-point coastal walk traces the old game trails of Australia’s emus. (Photo: Courtesy Life’s An ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų)

The 42-mile point-to-point leads through the beaches and bluffs of Yuraygir National Park in New South Wales. Youā€™ll start in the village of Angourie and follow the sign-posted track, as trails are called in Australia and New Zealand, south to the red-tinted cliffs of Red Rock. Most people take four to five days to do the whole route. Along the way, youā€™ll spot turtles and whales, swim in the Pacific Ocean, and walk through coastal headlands and the biodiverse Solitary Islands Marine Park.

Spend your first night on the trail camping at the , which is only accessible on foot. Or if youā€™d prefer sleeping in a bed, book a guided walk that includes shuttles to trailside properties like (from $234) or (from $125). leads a guided five-day walk of the trail (prices vary according to group size and season) for private groups from November to April that includes luggage delivery, boat and bus transfers, national-park fees, and accommodations. If youā€™d rather go it on your own, you can base out of the family-owned in Wooli, and the owners will arrange for lifts to the trail each day (from $499, including lodging and hiker shuttles).

Donā€™t Miss: Stop into the beachfront , about halfway through your route, for a sausage roll or pizza. Spend some time at the and estuary, a breeding site for endangered shorebirds including the pied oystercatcher and beach stone-curlew. The trail along the Station Creek estuary is lined with scribbly gum and corkwood trees, and if youā€™re lucky, youā€™ll spot an Australian crane or coastal emu.

8. Most Adventurous

Te Araroa, New Zealand

New-Zealand-Te-Araroa
Te Araroa, opened in 2011, traverses New Zealand’s two main islands, connecting old and new tracks and walkways. Some people chose to cover one island rather than both. (Photo: Courtesy Miles Holden)

New Zealand is known for its stellar tracks, and , also called the Long Pathway, is the countryā€™s most ambitious trail project yet. Itā€™s a 1,900-mile journey crossing the length of New Zealandā€™s North and South Islands, from Cape Reinga at the north end to Bluff at the southern tip. The trail itself climbs mountain passes, crosses verdant plains, and travels through small cities and remote villages. Roughly 2,000 people walk the whole trail each year, taking between three and six months. Most hikers go north to south, starting around October, which is springtime in New Zealand. If you donā€™t have that kind of time, pick a section or a single island; the South Island is considered the more challenging of the two due to its more mountainous terrain.

While this video shows a Te Araroa thru-hike, some choose a section or decide to hike either the North Island or South Island. The South Island is more remote and considered more difficult, the North Island route longer but with more road walking. (Video: ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų TV) Ģż

Before you go, ($34) to receive the latest maps and a Te Araroa walker-information packet. Buy a (from $110) for access to over 70 Department of Conservation-managed backcountry huts and campsites along Te Araroa. The trail also has Ģżto help you plan and navigate, and the trail notes for each section give details on the route and where to stay and resupply. Or you can book a guided 12-day trip with (from $8,595) and let the outfit take care of the logistics, including hotel bookings.

Donā€™t Miss: On the North Island, youā€™ll climb the extinct volcano of Mount Pirongia and descend to the valley below, where youā€™ll walk by the glowworm-studded , which are worth a stop; you can see the illuminating glowworms in their grottos by boat. On the South Island, spend a night at the 12-bunk, first-come, first-served near Wanaka, which has stunning views from the porch overlooking the Motatapu Valley and a nice swimming hole in the adjacent creek.

9. Best Way to Explore Indigenous Cultures

Vancouver Island Trail, Canada

hiker and misty lake in Strathcona Provincial Park, British Columbia
Moving through Strathcona Provincial Park, the oldest provincial park in British Columbia, Canada, with a furry friend (Photo: Courtesy Ben Giesbrech/Destination BC)

Vancouver Island, British Columbia, is a rugged and densely forested place, and the 500-mile is among the most challenging routes on this list. The trail goes from the capital city of Victoria on the southern end of the island to Cape Scott on the northern tip, crossing rocky beaches and through lush rainforests and territories sacred to First Nations tribes, including the Songhees in the south and the Tlatlasikwala to the north. The trail is broken up into seven distinct sections, from paved pathways through urban areas to logging roads, hiking trails, and rail trails. Each section takes around five to 10 days to walkā€”or you can spend two months doing a complete thru-hike. Some sections of the trail are still being completed and not well marked, so plan on some skilled route finding or thatā€™s better delineated. If youā€™re walking the trail northbound, youā€™ll end in , where the Cape Scott Lighthouse has been shining light for mariners since 1960.ĢżĢż

beach on Vancouver Island Trail, British Columbia, Canada
Exploring the beaches of San Josef Bay in Cape Scott Provincial Park, Vancouver Island Trail, British Columbia, Canada (Photo: Courtesy Shayd Johnson/Destination BC)

Donā€™t Miss: Book a cabin or pitch a tent at the First Nations-owned , between the northern towns of Port McNeill and Port Hardy. At the center of Vancouver Island, youā€™ll walk through Strathcona Provincial Park, British Columbiaā€™s oldest park, dotted with high-alpine lakes and jagged snow-capped peaks. The , on the outskirts of the park, has eight seasonal campsites and a sauna.

10. Best New Trail

Camino de Costa Rica, Costa Rica

dirt track on E Camino-de Costa Rica
El Camino de Costa Rica, inspired by El Camino de Santiago, goes from the Carribean Coast of Costa Rica on the Atlantic Ocean to the shores of the Pacific. (Photo: Courtesy AsociaciĆ³n Mar a Mar)

Youā€™ll walk from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the beaches of the Pacific Ocean on the 174-mile-long , or the Costa Rican Way, which was inspired by Spainā€™s El Camino de Santiago. This relatively new trailā€”established in 2018 by the nonprofit AsociaciĆ³n Mar a Marā€”travels through coffee plantations and rainforests, over the Continental Divide, and among tiny villages that rarely see tourists. Plan on around 16 days to hike the whole thing.

The trip starts on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, in the town of Barra de Parismina, at the base of Tortuguero National Park, known as a nesting ground for leatherback turtles. It ends in Quepos near Manuel Antonio National Park, filled with coral reefs and white-sand beaches. Stay in guesthouses, campsites, and hotels along the way. You will want to hire a guide, as much of the trail is sparsely marked. leads guided hikes ranging from eight to 16 days (from $1,675) that include meals and stays at local homes and guesthouses.

Donā€™t Miss: In the Orosi Valley, stay at the (from $59), which has private casitas and rooms close to the trail. In the town of Orosi, you can visit Iglesia de San JosĆ© Orosi, the oldest church in Costa Rica, dating back to 1743, and its Religious Art Museum, and the .

11. Best Paved Trail

Paul Bunyan State Trail, Minnesota

the tree-lined Paul Bunyan and Blue Ox bike trail, Bemidji, Minnesota
The Paul Bunyan and Blue Ox bike trail, ending in Bemidji, Minnesota, is also great for walking. The route connects the Heartland Trail, the Blue Ox Trail, and the Cuyuna State Trail. (Photo: Courtesy Explore Minnesota)

Most popular with cyclists, the Paul Bunyan State Trail is still a great long walk for those who want a paved, accessible pathway. The route begins at in Brainerd and ends 115 miles later at in Bemidji, home to a famous giant statue of Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox, Babe. This is the longest continuously paved rail-trail in the country, moderate in grade throughout as it follows the former Burlington Northern Railroad, abandoned in 1983. You can camp at and Lake , or stay in hotels in the various trail towns along the way.

Donā€™t Miss: Youā€™ll walk through the town of Hackensack, where every September chainsaw carvers turn hunks of wood into art in the annual Chainsaw Event. The (from $89) in the town of Nisswa has rooms and lakefront cottages steps from the trail on Lower Cullen Lake. In Pequot Lakes, stop into the trailside for a scoop of ice cream.

12. Best for Foodies

Cinque Terra, Italy

the five seaside villages of the Cinque Terre, Italy
Ancient trails connect the five seaside villages of the Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera, known for fresh seafood dishes, fine wine, and more. (Photo: Courtesy Visit Cinque Terre)

Cinque Terre or ā€œFive Landsā€ refers to five coastal townsā€”Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggioreā€”over the the Ligurian Sea, all linked by about 75 miles of hiking trails. The most popular route is the Sentiero Azzurro, known as the Blue Trail, which is less than 10 miles and can be done in a day. You can start in Monterosso or Riomaggiore and work your way in either direction, passing through lemon groves and walking staircases directly down to the sea.

For a more expanded tour, consider five- or eight-day self-guided hiking trips in Cinque Terre, where youā€™ll stay in curated hotels, dine on pizza and gelato from localsā€™ favorite spots, and ride trains to reach new trails each day. If youā€™re hiking on your own, be sure to check the for updates on closures (landslides have closed sections of the trail), and grab a (from $7 a day) for access to the two paid hiking trailsā€”from Monterosso to Vernazza and from Vernazza to Cornigliaā€”and for use of the bus lines within Cinque Terre National Park.

Donā€™t Miss: Climb the stairs to Doria Castle, a medieval fortress near the village of Vernazza, to see the remains of one of the oldest surviving towers on the Liguria coast. The five-room guesthouse (from $208) in the Unesco World Heritage Site of Vernazza makes for a good midway stop on your hike.

13. Most Accessible

Cotswold Way, England

The St. James Church, as seen across a meadow in Chipping Campden, a market village established in the 7th century (Photo: Courtesy Cotswolds Tourism)

The is a quintessentially English experience, where youā€™ll walk from the historic market town of Chipping Campden, once a busy center for traders, to the steps of the Late Medieval church of Bath Abbey, crossing through farmlands, country parks, and beech woodlands. Stop and admire fields full of sculptures or study English Civil War sites. This well-marked 102-mile trail can be traveled in either direction, taking between seven and 10 days. has both guided and self-guided walks (from $1,154) ranging from between seven and 12 nights, where youā€™ll sleep in limestone cottages and guesthouses.

Donā€™t Miss: Climb the hill to the Broadway Tower, an 18th century tower within a 200-acre estate of parkland offering expansive views across the valley; enjoy afternoon tea at the Tower Barn CafĆ© afterward. The trail also passes by , home to some 30 species of endangered butterflies, and , a historic garden filled with seasonal flowers and a lavish mix of Classical, Gothic, and other architecture.

Megan Michelson is an ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų contributing editor and avid traveler who once lived in England for a year and went on a lot of long rambles through the countryside. She recently wrote about trips that may help you live longer and her favorite new backcountry hut in Colorado.

Megan Michelson author
The author, Megan Michelson, out for a walkĢż (Photo: Megan Michelson Collection)

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What Itā€™s Really Like to Buy a 1 Euro Home in Italy /adventure-travel/destinations/europe/1-euro-homes-italy/ Wed, 18 Dec 2024 10:00:01 +0000 /?p=2691738 What Itā€™s Really Like to Buy a 1 Euro Home in Italy

Italian municipalities hoping to revive aging properties have basically been giving houses away for free. Itā€™s almost as good as it sounds.

The post What Itā€™s Really Like to Buy a 1 Euro Home in Italy appeared first on ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online.

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What Itā€™s Really Like to Buy a 1 Euro Home in Italy

What if we told you you could buy a home in a quaint Italian village for less than the price of a cappuccino? The fine print, of course, is that the house youā€™ll get will essentially be a collapsed set of walls. It will need major construction to be livable, and itā€™ll take much longer than youā€™d expect (read: years, not months) to get that remodeling done.

Municipalities across Italy have been joining the so-called 1 euro ($1.05 in U.S. dollars) house program for years now. It all started back in 2008 when art critic and TV personality Vittorio Sgarbi, then the mayor of Salemi in southern Sicily, got the idea from a friend to offer Salemiā€™s most rundown, abandoned properties in its city center for 1 euro in an effort to revitalize the town, which had been hit by an earthquake decades earlier and left in shambles.ĢżĢż

Since then, the concept has taken off in over 30 municipalities across northern and southern Italy, including the islands of Sicily and Sardinia, as a way to entice buyers to restore dilapidated structures. Thereā€™s no all-encompassing website for the program and information about these houses is hard to come byā€”each municipality has its own listings and local realtors are the best way to track those down.

This has a map of where some of these discounted houses can be found, thereā€™s aĢż for those whoā€™ve bought homes or are thinking about it, and the town of Mussomeli in Sicily, a hotbed of the 1 euro house program, has aĢż.

Rubia Daniels' home in italy before and after renovations
Rubia Daniels’ home in Italy before and after renovations (Photo: Rubia Daniels)

But we wanted to know, what is it actually like to buy one of these homes? So, we called up Rubia Daniels, a 50-year-old Brazilian who has spent the last 30 years living in Berkeley, California, where she works in renewable energy. In December 2018, Daniels heard about the 1 euro homes in Italyā€”a country where she has ancestors and always dreamed of livingā€”and promptly got on a flight to Palermo, Sicily. She bought three properties for 1 euro each in Mussomeli in 2019. That was just the beginning of her saga. These are her words.ĢżĢż

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After I heard about the 1 euro homes in Italy, I started researching different towns. I reached out to a realtor, and they replied immediately. Three days later, I booked a plane ticket and a rental car, and I was on my way. When I got to Mussomeli, a place I had never been before, it felt like I was coming home. I come from a small town in Brazil, where people are kind and everyone tries to help each other out. Mussomeli felt the same way. When people ask ā€˜How are you doing?ā€™ they really mean it.

One of the reasons I picked Mussomeli over other towns is because you donā€™t have to leave to get what you need. Everything is there: furniture makers, ceramic suppliers, window stores. When I was researching areas, I would see that some towns didnā€™t have a bank, or a pharmacy, or a hospital. I know some people who bought houses in very isolated areas, where you have to drive a long way to get supplies.

The realtor I called only spoke Italian, but I understood enough of the language to get by. My realtor was with me the whole time, showed me around, and was very welcoming. That was 2018 so things are different now. Many realtors speak English, or you can request one who works with English speakers. When I did my first tour of 1 euro houses, it was just me and a bunch of houses to see. But as time progressed, people from all over the world started going there looking for these homes. Now it is a very international community. I know Koreans, Russians, Americans, and Argentinians who all bought a home in Mussomeli.

Rubia Daniels holding the key to her italian home
Daniels proudly holding the keys to her 1 euro home in Italy, which ended up costing much more to fix upĢż(Photo: Rubia Daniels)

I was looking for high ceilings and a bigger home. Some houses were in better condition, but they were too small. Some were fully collapsed. Youā€™re basically getting the house for free, so you take what you can get. The cost? It was actually 1 euro. But of course there were other fees. I had to pay the realtor fee, which was 500 euros back then and more now. I had to pay for the deed, which was 3,500 euros. Total, I spent 4,000 euros to get the keys. I bought three houses and closed on them by June 2019, six months after I had first visited. I returned to Italy with five suitcases full of tools, a generator, and my husband and brother-in-law from Brazil, who were ready to start working on the first house.

The roof on the house had fully collapsed. It was three floors, about 1,800 square feet, and from the bottom floor, you could see the sun coming through the roof. We had to do everything from scratch. The new roof went in first. We had to demolish everything and clean it upā€”that alone took a long timeā€”before we could start remodeling. I worked for a full month rebuilding walls and the roof. Then COVID hit Italy and for two years, we couldnā€™t return. Construction stopped. The house just sat there.

rooftop before and after on Rubia Daniel's 1 euro home in italy
Daniels and her husband and brother in law had to repair massive damage to the roof so the house could become livable in the future. (Photo: Rubia Daniels)

In 2023, we returned to Italy and began work again. We redid the bathrooms and the kitchen, put in all new tiles and floors. My home will soon be finished, six years after I purchased it. Once we are done with the first home, we will start on the other two. My sons will manage those projects. One may become a restaurant with a house on top, and the other might be a wellness center to give back to the community.

The contractors there are so booked, you have to wait your turn. You have to remember there are 300 houses in a small town all being repairedā€”many of those are also 1 euro homesā€”and there arenā€™t enough workers to get it all done. I manage the contractors from overseas with help from translators and FaceTime. You can arrange everything over the phone, from furniture delivery to painting to curtain installation.

You must understand that Sicily is an island and people operate on ā€˜island timeā€™. The work is going to get done, but Italians donā€™t live to work. Everything takes longer. They say theyā€™re coming today to do the job, but that doesnā€™t mean theyā€™re really coming today. They will come at some point. Sometimes, you have a new contractor who comes in and says, ā€˜The other guy did everything wrong. You have to demolish this and start from scratch.ā€™ It costs more, but that happens everywhere.

two men remodeling a kitchen at home in Italy
A before and after shot of Daniels’ kitchen remodel (Photo: Rubia Daniels)

So far, I have spent 38,000 euros in repairs and remodeling. Iā€™m expecting to spend another 12,000 euros to finish. So, itā€™ll be about 50,000 euros total. But everything in the house is new. I have new plumbing and electrical. For that amount of money in the U.S., you can buy a car. It got me what is now a brand new house in Italy. I go to Italy three times a year to see how much progress has been made.

Iā€™m going to retire there, thatā€™s my goal. That will be my home base. From there, itā€™s a quick flight to London, Paris, or Istanbul. The air is clean. I can drink the water. The food is produced locally. Itā€™s a much nicer quality of living and a much lower price than where I currently live. My goal is to retire there in the next 15 years.

Rubia Daniels sanding down the wood of her front door
Rubia Daniels sanding down the dilapidated wood of her front door

Many of these houses became abandoned during World War II, and the towns are trying to revitalize them. Itā€™s a way of bringing the town back to life. Itā€™s working. Itā€™s vibrant now. There are more young families, businesses are booming. The people are welcoming and happy. If youā€™re not from Italy, then you need whatā€™s called a codice fiscal, a tax identification number for foreign citizens in order to purchase a house. Itā€™s an easy process. You go in person and fill out a form to say which house you are buying. Youā€™ll use that number to open a bank account or pay people. If I decide to stay in Italy for an extended time, I am going to apply for my Italian citizenship.

There are still 1 euro houses for sale in Mussomeli. Itā€™s not as big an inventory as when I was first looking, but you can still buy a house for 1 euro. Donā€™t think everything will be free. Know that the houses may be fully collapsed. Walk around the town, interact with the neighbors. That should help you make your decision. If youā€™re someone like me who gets excited about a project, then this is for you.

Megan Michaelson on a trail running trip to the Dolomites in Italy
The author on a recent trail running trip to the Italian Dolomites. (Photo: Megan Michaelson)

Megan Michelson is an ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų contributing editor who recently took a trip to Italy, where she kept looking over her shoulder for homes for sale for 1 euro. Sheā€™s also recently written about how to visit Jackson Hole on the cheap, reviewed the coolest Airbnb in Colorado, and how to find incredible ski lift ticket deals.Ģż

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Oh, Yes, You Can: 6 Breathtaking Via Ferratas for Every Type of ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųr /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-via-ferratas-world/ Thu, 03 Oct 2024 10:00:15 +0000 /?p=2683342 Oh, Yes, You Can: 6 Breathtaking Via Ferratas for Every Type of ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųr

Climb some of the most beautiful and unique mountains in the world without any technical experience.

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Oh, Yes, You Can: 6 Breathtaking Via Ferratas for Every Type of ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųr

My knees shake and my fingertips cling to the rock. I canā€™t bear to move my laser-focused gaze anywhere beyond the metal rung thatā€™s just out of reach. A moment before, I was climbing up a ladder, but now I feel like Iā€™m hanging off the edge of a cliff (because, well, I am).

ā€˜Why exactly did I think this was a good idea?ā€™ I think to myself. A hike would have been nice.

Itā€™s June, and Iā€™m perched on a precarious ledge of granite 75 feet above the forest floor on the new Eagle Cliff Via Ferrata in the Shawangunk Mountains, just 90 miles outside of New York City. Though Iā€™m currently frozen on this ledge, I somehow summon the grit to keep movingā€”sweaty palms and all. One hour and a few leaps of faith later, to my delight, I finish the via ferrata feeling accomplished and ready to jump into Lake Mohonk, beckoning from below.

A few weeks later in Italy, Iā€™m ready to tackle another, much higherā€” although, surprisingly, less physically taxingā€”via ferrata in the Dolomites.

I climbed my first via ferrata on Whistler Peakā€™s a decade ago, when I was younger and more fearless. But in trying out some of the world’s most spectacular ferratas since, I always come to the same realization: they are as fear-inducing as they are exhilarating and rewarding. Thatā€™s why I keep signing up for more.

What Is a Via Ferrata?

people climbing up a fixed cable on Ferrata Giovanni Lipella in the Italian Dolomites
Via Ferratas, or protected climbing routes in alpine environments, include fixtures like steel cables and railings to arrest falls, and ladders and steps to help climbers navigate tricky sections with more ease. (Photo: Carlo Cosi)

A via ferrata (Italian for ā€œiron wayā€) is a protected climbing route with fixed steel cables, metal rungs and ladders that make traversing steep and rocky terrain accessible, but certainly not without challenge. The beauty of via ferratas is that you can experience the highs rock climbers do without needing technical experience.

While there are numerous via ferratas around the world you can climb on your own, I recommend going with a guide as itā€™s not only safer, but supports local tourism economiesā€”and perhaps youā€™ll learn a thing or two about where you are. And as long as youā€™re reasonably fit, and you donā€™t have a paralyzing fear of heights youā€™ll survive, and you might even enjoy it. (Some level of fear is okay, too. It keeps you vigilant.)

While via ferratas are most common in Europe, with a majority in Italy and Austria, they are growing in popularity around the worldā€”especially in the United States, where private landowners, resorts, and cities are building routes through incredible terrain. And though this is not a definitive list of the worldā€™s best, weā€™ve hand-selected a few spots that are ideal for most adventurous people looking to climb via ferratas. Think: locales as far flung as the Middle East and Kosovo, to well-known meccas like the Dolomites, and a few classics, new and old, here in the U.S.

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Piccola Cir Via Ferrata, Dolomite Mountains, Italy

climbers on Ferrata Giovanni Lipella in the Italian Dolomites
In the Dolomitesā€”the birthplace of the via ferrataā€”there are over 600 ferrata climbing routes, including this one: Ferrata Giovanni Lipella, as well as the less challenging Piccola Cir. (Photo: Carlo Cosi)

Best For: Travelers who want to try multiple routes in the via ferrata motherland

Thereā€™s no better place to try a via ferrata than in its birthplace. The roots of via ferratas come from World War I, when climbing routes were strategically created by the Italian army as a way to evade attacks and traverse jagged peaks in the Dolomite Mountains. Over the decades, these paths were reinforced with metal rungs, and today theyā€™re used for recreation and sport.

In the Dolomites alone, there are over 600 via ferratas. I tried one of the popular and more beginner-friendly ascents this summer, . While the 2.3-mile loop trail is relatively short for the Dolomites, itā€™s still a challenge at spots because of its sheer height alone.

The reward? Totally worth it. When you reach the top at 8,504 feet, a sweeping 360-degree view of the Dolomites awaits you: the Sella massif and the entire Val Gardena valley stretches out below. I also loved seeing the summer panorama of the famous Sassolungo peak, which I skied down earlier this year.

šŸ„¾ šŸš“šŸ½ā€ā™€ļø More ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs Nearby: , a four-seasons adventure company, arranges guided, multi-day via ferrata trips featuring some of the most classic routes in the range (from roughly $1,400, depending on duration and number of people in your group). The company also offers mixing via ferratas with hiking and biking (prices vary).

Eagle Cliff Via Ferrata, New York, U.S.

climbers on rope bridge on Eagle Cliff Via Ferrata in New York
A short drive from New York City, the Mohonk Mountain House Eagle Cliff Via Ferrata and Pinnacle Ledge Tour give you a taste of top-tier East Coast climbingā€”without getting too technical. (Photo: Courtesy of Mohonk Mountain House)Ģż

Best For: Travelers who want a convenient mountain escape from the city

New Yorkā€™s new via ferrata, buried in the Shawangunk Mountains (better known as the ā€œGunks,ā€) is the northeastā€™s first resort-based route. Itā€™s located at the 155-year-old Mohonk Mountain House, and sits just 90 miles from New City City, making it a convenient and accessible way to experience one of the top rock climbing spots on the East Coast. I climbed the this summer soon after it opened in May, and while itā€™s not as high as its West Coast rivals, I found it physically and mentally challengingā€”and beautiful, to boot. The Nature Conservancy even this mountain range as ā€œone of the last great places on Earth.ā€

Securely connected to cables, youā€™ll traverse nearly a half mile across rocky landscapes and quartz ledges. The secluded route then follows the natural features of the conflated rock, and showcases views of Lake Mohonk and verdant forests below. Climbing it in autumn brings a glorious array of the northeastā€™s famed fall foliage, too. (Book with Mohonk from $295 per person.)

šŸŽæ šŸš“ā€ā™€ļø More ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs Nearby: 85 miles of trails within Mohonk Mountain Houseā€™s grounds provide idyllic hiking, biking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing. And if youā€™re working your way up to the via ferrata, try the less challenging and also new Pinnacle Ledge Tour (from $75 per person), which features an aerial bridge walkway. Note: youā€™ll have to to book via ferrata and Pinnacle Ledge tours (rooms from $695 per night, including meals, most activities, and wellness classes).

Panorama Via Ferrata, the Balkans, Kosovo

the Panorama route in Kosovo is one of many new via ferratas in the Sharr Mountains
This new via ferrata climbing route runs through the dynamic Sharr Mountain range near Prizren, Kosovo (Photo: Matthew Nelson)

Best For: Travelers looking for adventure and culture further afield

While many parts of Europe battle overtourism, one of the Balkansā€™ most unexplored mountain ranges beckons outdoor adventurers who ache to get off the beaten path.

Last summer, I trekked portions of the newly established , a 225-mile-long route that connects three former conflict countries: Kosovo, Albania, and North Macedonia. My trekking guides, Taulant Hoxha and Arian Krasniqi, the owners and co-founders of , grew up in Prizren during the Kosovo Conflict in the late 90s. And later, they helped develop both this trail and several new via ferratas around it, deep in Kosovoā€™s Sharr Mountains.

Before we started hiking the High Scardus, we warmed up on the nearby Panorama Via Ferrata. This 1640-foot climbing route thatā€™s less than three miles long sits just outside the historical city of Prizren, and overlooks the ridges of Sharr Mountain National Park and the Lumbardhi River. It only took us two hours, but SuperXplorers can take you on much longer and challenging routes as well.

šŸ„¾ šŸ§—šŸ½ā€ā™€ļø More ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs Nearby: Go the distance and take a 9-day guided hike of the High Scardus Trail with SuperXplorers (from $1270), or ask about the company’s through these less-trodden mountains and gorges.

Telluride Via Ferrata, Colorado, U.S.

man climbing the telluride route, one of the higher via ferratas in the U.S., with the valley floor below
Telluride Via Ferrata isn’t for the faint of heart, but it’s well worth a guided tour for the views of Telluride’s valley floor and Bridal Veil Falls. (Photo: Pam LeBlanc)

Best For: Experts or those with nerves of steel

You might not want to make the your first, unless you donā€™t mind hanging at 500 feet on an exposed canyon wall in southwest Coloradoā€™s San Juan Mountains. It’s possible to go without a guide on this technical climbing route (itā€™s one of the only free and open-to-the-public via ferratas in the U.S.) but itā€™s highly recommended to opt for guided expertise.

Pam LeBlanc, an avid outdoors writer, recommends booking a tour with (from $205 per person, depending on group size). The company provides gear, knowledge, and moral support, before taking you over a series of fixed cables, stemples, ladders, and bridges along the east end of Telluride canyon to the backdrop of stunning views of Bridal Veil Falls and the Telluride Valley below.

ā€œIt was terrifying, and Iā€™ve got a fear of heights so clinging to a 330-foot sheer rock wall, nose pressed to gritty rock, knees clicking like castanets, made me want to curl up in a ball and sob. Or barf,ā€ LeBlanc says. ā€œBut I was glad I did it, because I felt like a badass afterward.ā€

 

šŸŽæ šŸ„ƒ More ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs Nearby: Telluride is a full-fledged, four-season town with lots of other fun outdoor activities. LeBlanc recommends ice climbing, as itā€™s less crowded than nearby Ouray, as well as mountain biking, downhill skiing, and fatbike touring through the snow. When youā€™re finished, warm up with a hot toddy at tasting room.

Al Jabal Akhdar Via Ferrata, Oman

woman crossing a tightrope on Al Jabal Akhdar Via Ferrata in Oman
This tightrope wire cable bridge sits high above the valley below and is the final major feature on the Al Jabal Akhdar Via Ferrata (Photo: Courtesy of Catherine Gallagher)

Best For: Travelers looking for a far-flung luxury adventure

Sure, a luxury hotel in the Middle East might not seem like a place for a via ferrata. But surprise, surprise: thereā€™s a stunning route thatā€™s actually near two hotels, and , located 6,500 feet high in Jabal Shams, the tallest peak in Oman.

This (from $91 per person) traces the highest protected climbing path in the Middle East, and includes a traverse down a sharp vertical rock face and through a tiny cave to end on a tightrope wire cable bridge suspended 65 feet over the valley below.

Catherine Gallagher, co-founder of , did this via ferrata in Oman and recommends going just before dusk. ā€œItā€™s so cool,” she says. “The exposure, the sunset, the physical challenge, the mental challenge… When you finish, you top out at the bar where people are enjoying sundowners.ā€ Or you can head to the cliffside infinity pool for a dip.

šŸ„¾ šŸœ More ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs Nearby: Hike to Jabal Al-NabÄ« ShuŹæayb, the highest peak in the Arabian Peninsula at 12,030 feet, take a to see 800-million-year-old granite rock features ($130 per person), or try Gallagherā€™s favorite: off-roading across the dunes in the Wahiba Sands desertā€”one of the world’s most beautiful places you’ve never heard of.

Whistler Peak Via Ferrata, British Columbia, Canada

people climbing a ladder on whistler peak via ferrata in british columbia, canada
The author climbed Whistler’s via ferrata 10 years ago, and it’s the route that got her hooked on all of the rest. More recently, this group traversed a snow-packed field to ascend this bolted ladder up the B.C. mountain’s rock face. (Photo: Daniel Oā€™Keefe)

Best For: Travelers who want to reach the peak of Whistler without skis

This mountain playground and home of the 2010 Winter Olympics might be most known for its world-class ski runs, but Whistler is an all-seasons resort with numerous adventure opportunities year round. While I love skiing on Whistlerā€™s famed peak (one of North Americaā€™s highest mountains) it was my first experience climbing it that hooked me on via ferratas.

Departing from the top of Whistler Village Gondola at just above 5,905 feet, the took us approximately four hours to climb over 2.5 miles of mountainous terrain, gaining 850 feet of elevation. What I loved most about this via ferrata were the incredible views of surrounding snowy peaks, and climbing in shorts and a tank top.

Itā€™s open May through October (from $209 per person). Once youā€™ve summited Whistler Peak walk the that hovers high over Whistler Bowl for 360 views of the still snow-capped Rocky Mountains.

šŸš ĢżšŸš“šŸ½ā€ā™€ļø More ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs Nearby: Whistler has no shortage of high-adrenaline activities throughout the year such as downhill mountain biking, which is serious business here. (I took a beginner lesson for $193 on ).You can also standup paddle on glacier-fed lakes, and cold plunge if youā€™re feeling brave.

kathleen rellihan climbing her first via ferrata on whistler peak
The author, climbing her first via ferrata on Whistler Peak in British Columbia a decade ago. Little did she know back then, this route would set off her life-long pursuit to bag supported high alpine routes all around the world.Ģż(Photo: Courtesy of Kathleen Rellihan)

is a travel journalist who tries to do one thing (almost) every day that scares her. If nothing else, it might make for a great story, perhaps for outlets she writes for such as National Geographic, BBC, Afar, ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų and more.ĢżĢż

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Top 6 National Parks in Europeā€”And the Best ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs in Them /adventure-travel/destinations/europe/best-national-parks-europe/ Wed, 21 Aug 2024 10:00:21 +0000 /?p=2678847 Top 6 National Parks in Europeā€”And the Best ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs in Them

Our national-parks expert headed across the Atlantic to explore. From northern Finland to the Italian coast, these spectacular spots topped her bucket list.

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Top 6 National Parks in Europeā€”And the Best ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųs in Them

When I had the chance to spend some time in Europe this year, the first thing I wanted to doā€”well, besides find some really good cheeseā€”was figure out how to visit as many national parks as possible. As the editor in chief of , °æ³Ü³Ł²õ¾±»å±šā€™s sister brand, I spend a lot of time thinking about national parks. Whether itā€™s figuring out how to pack as much as possible into a weekend in Yellowstone, thinking about the implications of reservation systems, or dreaming about units to visit, I eat, sleep, and breathe Americaā€™s best idea.

But narrowing down the European parks to visit proved tougher than Iā€™d imagined. While the 27 EU member countries share a market and (mostly) a currency, each nationā€™s approach to public lands is vastly different. Some European national parks are all pristine wilderness areas and have strict recreation-use laws. In others, youā€™ll find trendy bars serving Aperol spritzes, with Vespas parked outside. Thereā€™s even a Croatian national park with a zoo, complete with an elephant, ostriches, and zebras. Slovenia has just a single park; Finland has dozens.

While European parks run the gamut, they all have one thing in common. Theyā€™ve been set aside as meriting designation, meaning theyā€™re worth a visit to see something meaningful, whether thatā€™s glistening glaciers, spectacular mountain peaks, hanging bridges across thundering rivers, or ancient vineyards clinging to cliffs above the sea.

These are the European national parks that top my travel bucket list. Iā€™ve been to several of them and canā€™t wait to see the rest.

1. Triglav National Park, Slovenia (Triglavski Narodni Park)

Admission: Free

TriglavEuroNational
Triglav National Park is the only national park in Slovenia and a treasure trove of wilderness. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

WHY GO: While Alpine countries like France and Austria get most of the love, many people know almost nothing of one of the Alpsā€™ best destinations: Slovenia. On my first visit to the country I was instantly charmed by the countryā€™s rolling pastures, pretty churches set against the backdrop of mountains and blue lakes, and university-town capital, Ljubljana, which, with its avant-garde metalwork and dragon mascot, has a decidedly punk feel. When I realized that a subrange of the Alps was protected in the northwestern corner of the country as Triglav National Park, I knew I had to return.

Nestled up against the Italian border and nearly touching Austria, Triglav is home to thick forests, rivers, mountain villages, and big peaks that quickly made it one of my favorite national parks. Mount Triglav is the crown jewel at 9,396 feet, but plenty of other impressive summits draw peak baggers from across the world. Vogel Ski Resort can be found here too, offering 14 miles of terrain.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

BEST ADVENTURES: Most park visitors flock to the Lake Bohinj region, a nearly 800-acre glacially carved valley filled with deep blue water where you can rent traditional wooden rowboats ($16/hour), among other watercraft. Vogel is in this area, and you can take the gondola and chairlift ($34 roundtrip for adults) partway and hike to the summit. The 6.1-mile trail isnā€™t technical, but it is steep in places, secured with cables and pegs. Keep your eyes peeled for the ibex and chamois that live here.

Lake Bohinj, Slovenia
Many visitors head for Lake Bohinj, Bled, Slovenia, and it is easy to see why. (Photo: TONNAJA/Getty)

Watch the weather for wind gusts that could shut down the lifts, and stay aware of the time, because itā€™s a long trek back down if the chairs stop running before you reach them (they close at 4 p.m. in the summer). At several traditional huts on the mountain, you can enjoy local cheese and mountain dishes like goulash.

While the Bohinj area is the most popular, venturing further into the park is absolutely worth it. Head up and over the steep and narrow VrÅ”ič Pass to Triglavā€™s more remote west side (my favorite), where youā€™re as likely to encounter a herd of sheep blocking the road as cyclists riding on it. Tackle the 15-mile , a hike that can be done in a long day, or at a slower pace, where you spend the night in one of several villages along the way. The beautiful trail follows the river, which is so clear and bright it almost hurts to look at. My husband, dog and I got distracted on our hike and instead spent a pleasant afternoon wadingĢż in the cold snowmelt. Wind your way gradually down valley under larches and across swinging bridges.

Soca River, Triglav National Park
The 15-mile Soča River Trail in Triglav National Park follows the clear, rushing river. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

If you really want to get away, several long-distance trails, including the Via Alpina red route (1,500 miles) and the Alpe Adria Trail (466 miles), run through Triglav. For less of a commitment than those, head into the Seven Lakes Valley on a multi-day excursion, where you can spend the night in several maintained huts (no camping is allowed in the backcountry).

HOW TO GET THERE: Slovenia has a great public transportation system, making it easy to get from Ljubljana to Bled by train (40 minutes) and then Bled to Bohinj by bus (40 minutes), so you can stay in the capital and still explore the park. Buses run to other parts of Triglav, too, but pay attention to timetables, as they are less frequent and getting a taxi or rideshare wonā€™t be an option in remote parts of the park.

Triglav National Park, Slovenia
Log pod Mangartom, a village in the Littoral region of Triglav National Park, Slovenia (Photo: Pavel Tochinsky/Getty)

BEST TIME TO GO: June to September is high season for hiking and hut availability, but can also be crowded. Snow melts early in this part of the world, so low elevation hikes can be done in the spring and fall to avoid the crowds. Ģż

WHERE TO STAY: Accommodations, from private hotels and guest houses to campgrounds and mountain huts, abound inside the park. My husband and I like staying in Bohinj on the west side for easy access to Vogel and the pretty town of Bled, or the quiet village of Trenta on the east side. For an alpine experience, book a bed at Tičarjev Dom ($47 per person with breakfast), the mountain hut at the summit of VrÅ”ič Pass. Youā€™ll sleep dormitory-style and rise to incredible mountain views the next morning from the patio over a bela kava (coffee with milk).

2. Oulanka National Park, Finland

Admission: Free

cliff and river, Oulanka National Park
The Ristikallio formation above the Avento River, Oulanka National Park, Northern Finland (Photo: Karl Ander Adami/Getty)

WHY GO: If youā€™re looking to get into some of the most remote wilderness on the continent, head to Oulanka National Park in Finland. The park hugs the Russian border in the far northeastern part of the country above the Arctic Circle and is an experience in solitude. In fact, the wilderness doesnā€™t stop at state lines. It continues east, bleeding quietly into Russiaā€™s PaanajƤrvi National Park, with a simple rope forming the border and keeping canoeists in the EU. Last year I visited Levi Ski Resort in Finnish Lapland, four hours to the north, and fell in love with polar night. Getting back is at the top of my list and this time I want to get deeper into the wilderness, specifically at Oulanka.

Levi ski resort, Finland
The author on her previous trip to Finnish Lapland, at Levi Ski Resort last year (Photo: Topher Yanagihara)

Planning a trip to this remote land filled with boreal forests, rushing rivers, and limestone gorges isnā€™t easy, but I promise the hardest part will be picking which season to visitā€“winter or summer? This far north, the year is capped by eternal night in the deep winter, when you can snowshoe, cross-country ski, and try to spot the Northern Lights, and permanent sun in the height of the warm months, with plenty of daylight for canoeing and hiking trips.

Oulanka National Park in Finland
Canoeing at Oulanka river, Oulanka National Park, Kuusamo region, Finland (Photo: Gonzalo Azumendi/Getty)

BEST ADVENTURES: Summer visitors have two main choices for exploring: by water or by land. Paddlers can rent canoes and camping gear from to embark on a trip down the Oulankajoki River. The lower section is calm, with a short two-hour option to a takeout or a seven-hour route that makes an excellent overnight trip with a stop at any of several campsites or the first-come, first-served AnsakƤmppƤ Wilderness Hut. There are rapids and a portage on the upper section of the river, so skip it unless youā€™re an experienced boater.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

On foot, try the , a loop that crosses some of the parkā€™s famous hanging bridges. In summer months, the trail is one-way (clockwise). Backpackers can head out on the 50-mile Bearā€™s Ring, aka . Finlandā€™s most popular hike traverses the park from north to south, with each stage ending on a bus route in case youā€™d prefer to sleep in a real bed, or campsites and huts along the way if youā€™d rather rough it. Thundering rivers, placid streams, bogs, hanging bridges, and delicate purple orchids await. Look out for traditional Sami herders and their reindeer, who still inhabit the area today.

In the winter, I love how the mercury plunges when Finnish Lapland freezes over, rewarding intrepid and cold-tolerant visitors with a magical landscape. Itā€™s my favorite time of year to be in Finland. Pines and spruces thick with frozen snow stand like fuzzy sentinels over ice-crusted rivers and cross-country ski trails. In December and January, youā€™ll find a scant three hours of daylight. In late winter, youā€™ll still experience plenty of darkness for northern lights spotting, but will also be treated to long sunrises and sunsets, turning the landscape into a cotton-candy-colored forest.

snow covered suspension bridge over the River Kitkajoki, Finland
Suspension bridge over the River Kitkajoki, near Myllykoski, in winter in the Oulanka National Park, Finnish Lapland (Photo: Martin Zwick/REDA & CO/Universal Images Group/Getty)

Use an app like My Aurora Forecast to monitor northern-lights conditions for your best chance at spotting the undulating colors. Other winter options are to rent snowshoes or cross-country skis in nearby Ruka and set off on the park’s many trails.

HOW TO GET THERE: The closest airport to the park is Kuusamo, which has several flights from Helsinki each day, plus a few other major European cities like Brussels and Frankfurt. While renting a car in Kuusamo is the easiest mode of travel, a bus route from the airport accesses the Karhunkierros Trail, Oulanka National Park Visitor Center, and Ruka, if youā€™re eager to add downhill skiing to your itinerary. Ruka Ski Resort is Finlandā€™s best known, and has a long season lasting October to May.

BEST TIME TO GO: Peak season for hiking and canoeing, the parkā€™s main attractions, is July through September when the weather is warmest and most predictable (think 50s) and the days are the longest. To see the Northern Lights and get out on snowy trails, December through March are the best season, but be ready for temps from freezing to below zero.

WHERE TO STAY: For the most options, base yourself at Ruka Ski Resort. Ruka offers all sorts of lodging options and the park is a quick 30-minute drive away. Winter visitors who want to go all out should stay at , with glass igloos perfect for aurora spotting (from $347/night with breakfast). If you want to be closer to the park, ā€™s cozy wilderness hotel borders it (from $109/night for a double room).

3. Cinque Terre National Park, Italy (Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre)

Admission: $21-$35/day for train and trail access

Cinque Terre
The national park of Cinque Terre is comprised of five villages, clinging to cliffsides above terraced slopes. Shown is Corniglia. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

WHY GO: Iā€™d seen the brightly colored Italian houses clinging to cliffs above an azure sea on my Instagram feed, but had no idea that the five villages making up the Cinque Terre (note the article ā€œthe,ā€ as youā€™ll be judged mightily for dropping it) are actually a national park until I visited this past spring. The land here is characterized by its human influence. The steep hills leading straight into the sea have been terraced and cultivated for more than 1,000 years.

Cinque Terre National Park
The steep seaside hills both above and below the villages have been terraced and cultivated for more than 1,000 years. Here Manarola is seen from above. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

BEST ADVENTURES: The most popular hiking route is the Blue Trail (also called the Sentiero Azzuro or SVA), the main path that historically connected all five villages. In 2019, a landslide took out the section of trail between Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore, and maintenance work is ongoing, though the Manarola to Riomaggiore section reopened in July. The sections between Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare remained open. Whenever you choose to travel, start out as early in the day as possible or plan an evening hike to dinner to avoid the crowded midday hours. Taking the train back is also always an option if the trails get packed (we had to turn around and take the train in April because the pathway was gridlocked).

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

(grab a focaccia made with the regionā€™s famous pesto for my favorite mid-hike snack) and on to Monterosso is 4.1 miles one way with 2,000 feet of elevation gain. A less popular, but in my opinion even better, hike on the Blue Trail is the . Youā€™ll climb up to the tiny town of Volastra, perched above the Cinque Terre, and then back down to Manarola. Time your hike so that you can grab a glass of wine and bruschetta at Cantina Capellini, a winery producing the Cinque Terre DOP white wine. The simple patio is right on the trail, situated amongst the vines, and overlooks the sea. Make sure you have room in your pack for a bottle to take home.

Cinque Terre
Ancient trails between all the villages take you to dream views like this of Corniglia. Or you might enjoy them from a restaurant patio. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

Heading south from Corniglia and ending in Manarola is 3.6 miles one way, with 1,300 feet of elevation gain. The descent on this route is heinous (youā€™ll end lower than you began), so you may want to skip this one if your knees are bad.

When youā€™re not on the trail, take advantage of amazing food (cornettos! pesto! wine! fried anchovies! focaccia!) on a patio, or head down to the water. Each town has sea access for swimming, though you wonā€™t find much of a beach anywhere besides at Monterosso. Spread a towel on the rocks and sunbathe, or ($10.75/hour rentals from Riomaggiore) to explore the coastline.

HOW TO GET THERE: Fly into Florence, Milan, or Rome. Trains run directly from these major hubs to La Spezia Centrale, the closest city to the Cinque Terre, or you can drive to La Spezia Centrale and park your rental car in the large garage at the station. From there, itā€™s a quick seven-minute train ride to the first village, Riomaggiore. Each additional village is just a few minutes further up the tracks. If you plan on utilizing both the train and the trails, purchase a in advance, which allows unlimited train rides between villages (including La Spezia), access to the trails, and free use of the toilets at each train station ($21-$35/day).

BEST TIME TO GO: Hiking the Cinque Terre is best done in the off-season. Summer crowds are epic, and the trails can get packed by late morning even in the spring and fall.

While itā€™s a gamble to visit in the colder months (November through March), as the trails can close when weather is bad and youā€™ll have fewer lodging and dining options, itā€™s the least busy season. Plan a visit for the fringe months of March or November to capitalize on good weather and to beat the masses.

Riomaggiore village and coastline of Ligurian Sea
View of part of Riomaggiore village and the Ligurian Sea. Riomaggiore is one of the five ancient colorful villages of the Cinque Terre National Park in Liguria, region of Italy. (Photo: watcherfox/Getty)

WHERE TO STAY: Youā€™ll find hotels in Monterosso and Riomaggiore on each end, as well as in the larger city of La Spezia, a quick train ride away. But for the most authentic experience stay in one of the three central villages. Book a vacation rental (Airbnb has plenty of options) in Vernazza, Corniglia, or Manarola, and youā€™ll get to experience the towns when all the day tourists from the cruise ships have left. Quiet restaurants, empty streets, and coffee with the locals each morning are treats.

My favorite village is Corniglia, for its smaller size and gorgeous view from atop a hill, though the walk from the train station up a long set of stairs to the town makes coming and going a chore. We ended up skipping our dinner reservations one town over in favor of staying put here with a bottle of wine and take-out focaccia.

4. Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park, Italy (Parco Nazionale Dolomiti Bellunesi)

Admission: Free

via ferrata in Dolomites
Sorry, but the author strongly suggests you try a via ferrata when in the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park, Dolomites, Italy. (Photo: Westend61/Getty)

WHY GO: While each region of Europeā€™s Alps has its own flavor, the Italian Dolomiti are particularly impressive. Craggy mountains, mist-filled valleys, and sweeping forests provide one of my favorite landscapes in the world.

The range, which encompasses northeastern Italy, is home to the 12 world-renowned ski areas that make up the Ikon Pass destination Dolomiti Superski. Itā€™s also a Unesco World Heritage Site and the location of several incredible regional parks, such as Tre Cime. But youā€™ll only find one national park, Dolomiti Bellunesi, in the region. Iā€™ve somehow missed this corner of the Dolomiti in all of my adventures here, so I canā€™t wait to plan a trip back to see it.

Stretching 12-square-miles northwest of Belluno, this somewhat under-the-radar park offers visitors the best of the Dolomiti, with fewer crowds than the areaā€™s better-known and more northerly destinations of Tre Cime, Seceda, and Lago di Braises. Home to via ferratas, two of the famous Alta Via trails, and countless quintessential Italian villages, this is the place where you want to start your Dolomiti adventure.

BEST ADVENTURES: Youā€™ll want to experience this national park by footā€“miles of trails cross the mountains, including two of the Alta Via, or ā€œhigh routes.ā€ Alta Via 1 is a classic and one of the least technical of the routes, running 75 miles from Lago di Braies to La Pissa. The final four stages, which are often the least crowded, wind through the park. Alta Via 2 also includes three stages in the national park, from Passo Cereda to Passo Croce dā€™Aune. This route is more technical, with via ferratas required along the way. A climbing harness, helmet, and gloves are needed to tackle this option ( in Cortina »åā€™A³¾±č±š³ś³ś“Ē for $23/day).

Whether or not you embark on one of the parkā€™s through-hikes, you should definitely experience a via ferrata while in the Dolomiti. Popularized during WWI in the region to help troops navigate vertical terrain, these ā€œiron pathsā€ use ladders, rungs, pegs and steel cables affixed to rocks to help people move across the cliffs. The parkā€™s highest peak, Schiara, has three via ferratas ringing it: Zacchi, Berti, and Piero Rossi, which, linked up, make for a long but doable day in the mountains if you stay at ($74/night for half board). These routes lean toward being difficult, so hiring a guide is advisable. I found to be excellent on my most recent via ferrata adventure, on the Punto Anna route in Cortina d’Ampezzo, an hour and a half north.

via ferrata in Italty
Ruland on a via ferrata in Cortina, north of the national park. See how much fun? (Photo: Mikaela Ruland Collection)

Cyclists can test their mettle on the grueling stage 20 of the 2022 Giro dā€™Italia route, which runs 104 miles (168 kilometers) from Belluno to Marmolada, crossing through the park on SR203. Whatever activities you choose to get up to, make sure to include some time on either end of your trip for a quick detour to the so-called Prosecco Road between Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, where the prestigious DOCG (the highest quality designation) sparkling wine is produced in the hills. My favorite producer, Adami, is one of the oldest in the region and has an excellent tour and tasting experience.

HOW TO GET THERE: Venice offers the closest major airport, and train service to Belluno takes approximately two hours. From there, the Dolomiti bus services many of the roads within the park, but note timetables, as service can be limited. Unless youā€™re planning a through-hike, the best way to explore the Dolomiti is by renting a car in Venice or Belluno, then driving to trailheads.

BEST TIME TO GO: Most staffed rifugios (mountain huts) away from the ski resorts are only open to hikers in summer, so June through September are the best months to visit if youā€™re planning an overnight adventure. The weather often stays pleasant through October, though, and travel then is a great way to skip out on some of the crowds if youā€™re prepared for the possibility of an early season snow storm.

hikers in Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park
Hikers follow the seven-stage Alta Via trail, which passes across the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park. (Photo: Westend61/Getty)

WHERE TO STAY: Hiking the Alta Vias, even just a few linked stages, takes forethought, as many of the rifugios along the route fill up early in summer. Start planning in January or February when availability opens. Otherwise, youā€™ll find accommodation optionsā€”including hotels, guesthouses, rifugios, and vacation rentalsā€”in and around the park, but book early as options can be limited. Belluno, with 36,000 inhabitants, is the closest major town.

For a unique experience, plan a stay at an agriturismo, a working farm where youā€™ll be treated to meals with homemade products like cheese and salumi. Mountain pasture cheesemaking has become a somewhat lost art in the Dolomiti, but this park has worked hard to restore five of these ā€œmalgaā€ operations. If you donā€™t stop at an agriturismo, watch for latterias (like Latteria Perenzin in San Pietro di Feletto) where you can buy the locally made cheese alongside salumi and other products perfect for a picnic.

5. Samaria National Park, Greece

Admission $5.50

Samaria National Park, Greece
Visitors pass through the narrowest, most dramatic section of the longest gorge in Europe, in Samaria National Park, Greece. (Photo: Corey Buhay)

WHY GO: Encompassing the longest gorge in Europe, Samaria National Park showcases the best of the Mediterranean, from towering cliffs to fragrant cypress trees, and from white limestone riverbeds to the sparkling sea itself. Since the park is comprised almost solely of one long, steep , you can experience the place in its entirety, from the White Mountains to the Mediterranean, in one day. Samaria Gorge is located on the western side of Crete, Greeceā€™s biggest island. I havenā€™t gotten to Greece yet, but a friend and colleague promises me that itā€™s the first place Iā€™ll want to go.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

BEST ADVENTURES: The park is open, weather permitting, from May through October. Entry begins at 7 a.m., and itā€™s an excellent idea to start out then, before the heat of the day. Much of the trail is exposed and sunbaked, so going the first or last month of the season is wise to avoid the mid-summer heat. The park closes down during excessively hot stretches, or if flooding is possible in the shoulder season. Pay attention to the heat and hold off if the temperatures are dangerous. Itā€™s usually a five- to seven-hour hike without services, so pack plenty of water and snacks; bring sun protection, a hat and a neck gaiter to help stay cool; and wear hiking footwear. Water from springs is often available along the route, but donā€™t count on it.

Church in the national park of Samaria, Crete
Ancient church in a temple ruin in the national park of Samaria, Crete, Greece. (Photo: DEA/Archivio/J. Lange/Getty)

Youā€™ll start hiking steeply downhill, taking in the views of the surrounding White Mountains, before continuing through a pine and cypress forest and reaching the church of St. Nikolas inside the ruins of an ancient temple. Look around for kri kri, wild Cretan goats. Cross a few streams and youā€™ll find yourself in the ancient village of Samaria, which is now solely inhabited by park staff.

The gorge gradually narrows as you cross through a (hopefully) dry riverbed, alongside striped rock walls, into the skinniest point in the canyon, where the walls are just under 10 feet apart. The park closes at 6 p.m., so make sure youā€™re through the exit by then. Either walk another 1.5 miles or hop on a cheap shuttle to get to the village of Agia RoumĆ©li, where you can grab a late lunch or early dinner at one of several restaurants and, if time allows, take a well-earned dip in the Mediterranean.

woman on rock looking at river in Samaria Gorge in Greece
An American visitor, Corey Buhay, contemplates a clearwater pool during the long but heavenly day in Samaria Gorge National Park (Photo: Corey Buhay Collection)

The single ferry leaves the village at 5:30 p.m., only once per day, so donā€™t miss it or youā€™ll have to arrange a taxi boat or stay in the village. Depart at Chora Sfakion or Sougia and take the bus back to your car or lodge. If arranging your own transportation stresses you out, many tour companies offer guided excursions in the park.

HOW TO GET THERE: From Athens, fly into Chania International Airport for the closest access to the park. In Chania, you can either rent a car and drive to the gorge, or purchase a bus ticket to Xyloscalo, at the start of the trail. The full hike is one way, and at the end youā€™ll take a ferry to Sougia ($16/person) and then the bus either back to your car at the trailhead or your hotel in Chania. Be sure to reserve your return tickets in advance to avoid getting stranded.

BEST TIME TO GO: Samaria Gorge is open May through October, with the beginning and end of the season providing the coolest temperatures.

WHERE TO STAY: Most visitors base in the city of Chania and do the trip to Samaria Gorge in one long day, but if you, like me, would prefer a slower pace and to experience the secluded village of Agia RoumƩli without the crowds, you can stay at one of the few hotels or vacation rentals in town. offers rooms, breakfast and beach loungers starting at $79 per night. You can spend the entire next day enjoying the beach before catching the ferry back.

6. Ɖcrins National Park, France (Parc National des Ɖcrins)

ADMISSION: Free

La Grave, Ecrins National Park
Summer in the beautiful village of La Grave, at the border of the Ɖcrins National Park in Hautes-Alpes, Alps, France. Towering above the town is the landmark La Meije peak. (Photo: Francois Roux/Getty)

WHY GO: Ɖcrins National Park, a glacier-filled alpine paradise with more than 150 peaks topping 3,000 meters, sits near the Italian border in eastern France. The Alps are one of my favorite landscapes in the world and, after visiting them in Austria, Italy, Slovenia, Switzerland, and Lichtenstein, I put this French national park squarely on my to-do list. Barre des Ɖcrins is the tallest summit here, towering 13,458 feet above the park, the most southerly 4,000-meter peak in the Alps. Here, amongst the chamois youā€™ll almost certainly spot, youā€™ll feel like youā€™re at the top of the world.

BEST ADVENTURES: You could hike the parkā€™s many trails, including a section of the Grand Ɖcrins, but this is also a space known for its alpine climbing. If youā€™re looking for adventure, a three-day mountaineering- and glacier-skills course with will help you tag the summit of Barre des Ɖcrins, staying in remote mountain huts ($1,645).

Les Deux Alpes bike park
A mountain biker at the lift-served Les Deux Alpes bike park in the French Alps, eastern France (Photo: Jean-Pierre Clatot/AFP/Getty)

Within the boundaries of Ɖcrins are two ski areas, and two others just bordering the park might be the areaā€™s most famous, especially for cyclists. Les Deux Alpes bike park is one of the biggest in the Alps and is home to beginner- to competition-level courses in everything from downhill to enduro with pristine alpine views. Alpe dā€™Huez offers one of the Tour de Franceā€™s most iconic climbs in addition to the wild Megavalanche, a mass-start mountain-bike race on a glacier. Ride into the national park, which has around 100 miles of marked bike trails.

HOW TO GET THERE: The closest major city is Grenoble, France. Fly into Lyon, Geneva, Marseille, or even Paris and take a high-speed train to Grenoble. From there, if you plan on some serious exploring, itā€™s best to rent a car, but bus service is also available to Les Deux Alpes if you will stick to the resorts or hire a guide to get into the mountains.

Lac PĆ©tarel, Parc National des Ecrins, French Alps.
Hike to Lac PĆ©tarel in the Parc National des Ecrins, French Alps. (Photo: Jean Kaniewicz/Getty)

BEST TIME TO GO: July through September are the months to visit to avoid snow in this mountain environment.Ģż

WHERE TO STAY: The ski resorts and villages in and around Ɖcrins provide ample lodging, but to really get away from it all, book a stay in one of the 40 throughout the park. While some of these mountain huts simply serve as basic overnight shelters for mountaineers, others are staffed in the summer, offering hot dinner and breakfast and often a lovely patio on which to take in the setting sun in a gorgeous high-alpine setting.

Refuges almost always require a hike to reach, so choose your trail, do your research and book ahead to ensure you have a bed waiting at the end of your day.

Mikaela Ruland is the editor in chief of National Park Trips. She lives for the outdoors, and you can usually find her hiking, skiing, or mountain biking. She’s been to national parks on three continents, including 23 of the 63 U.S. national parks. Her favorite is whichever one sheā€™s traveling to next.

woman and dog in front of village of Cinque Terre
Ruland and Hazelnut in Cinque Terre, Italy (Photo: Author Collection)

 

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13 Travel Mistakes Our Writers Will Never Make Again /adventure-travel/advice/worst-travel-mistakes/ Tue, 20 Aug 2024 18:14:17 +0000 /?p=2679031 13 Travel Mistakes Our Writers Will Never Make Again

From pricey foreign driving fines to late-night ant attacks, our travel correspondents reveal trip snafus they donā€™t want to relive

The post 13 Travel Mistakes Our Writers Will Never Make Again appeared first on ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online.

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13 Travel Mistakes Our Writers Will Never Make Again

There’s no perfect trip. Despite the best planning, the unexpected happens, like the ferry service doesn’t run the only day you need it, or you didn’t know that there are two German towns named Frankfurt.

We asked our longtime travel writers and editors to tell us about their most memorable travel mistakes, the ones that taught them a significant lesson or two. Some of their stories made us chuckle, and most were relatable. If you’ve ever been seriously sick while abroad, frustrated with others on a group trip, or ignorant of the rules of the road in some foreign locale, you’ll appreciate these sticky situations.

1. Desperately Seeking Arctic Apparel

While on my first and only small-ship cruise along the southeast Alaskan coastline one September, I was so excited for the adventures ahead that I mistakenly left my luggage on the airport conveyor belt. The shuttle picking me up transported my group directly to the Mendenhall Glacier for an initial hike before dropping us off at the dock for departure. The boat had set sail before I realized that I had nothing more than the clothes on my back for a chilly seven-day itinerary. I was mortified.

Thankfully, the ship captain and company owner raided the vesselā€™s supply closet and were able to deck me out with a staff T-shirt and sweatshirt. An angel fellow passenger loaned me an extra puffy and a few essential layers. Disaster averted, with the help of a few kind people. ā€”Stephanie PearsonĢż

2. Double-Check That Google Maps Route

Low sun illuminates the French Alps near Chamonix.
An endless evening drive around the Alps after a long day on the slopes was not what the writer had in mind. (Photo: DurkTalsma/Getty)

After skiing powder all day in the Alpine mecca of Chamonix, France, my husband and I grabbed a baguette and a hunk of cheese and hit the road in our rental Peugeot bound for Tignes, France, the next stop on our winter European road trip.

Still giddy from our time at the iconic resort, we didnā€™t consult Google Maps as closely as we should have. It navigated us east through the Mont Blanc Tunnelā€”a seven-mile-long feat of engineering that cuts through the massif and connects Chamonix to the neighboring ski town of Courmayeur on the Italian side. The one-way toll costs about $55. Baffled but believing in Google Maps, we continued to follow the directions and enjoyed the finest of scenic drives for another 30 minutes. Then the cobbled streets turned into a one-lane dirt road that soon dead-ended at a snowbank, with skiers cruising atop it.

There was nothing to do but turn around and try a different route, which, of course, directed us back through the tunnel (forcing us to pay again) and added several hours to a long day. But it made for a good story afterward. ā€”Megan Michelson

3. Pack Back-Up Meds in Case You Get Sick

The author on a hike in the backcountry while she's sick with scarlet fever
Having to hike to your pick-up point in the backcountry while youā€™re sick with scarlet feverā€”as our writer is hereā€”is horrible to endure. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

I habitually get sick in foreign countries. Iā€™ve suffered numerous bouts of strep throat while visiting family in Sweden, food poisoning on a rural train in northern India, and came down with scarlet fever on a five-day backpacking trip in the remote Alaskan bush. That last trip was a turning point for me. I now always carry antibiotics with me when I travel. ā€”Emily Pennington

4. Why Overpreparing Isnā€™t a Bad Idea

Tim Neville rappels himself down a sheer icy face of . It was preferable to the alternative.
The author rappels himself down a sheer icy slope in the Himalayas. It was preferable to another cold nigh at 17,000 feet. (Photo: Courtesy Tim Neville)

I was invited to Nepal in 2003 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest. I signed up for a 30-day trip with an outfitter that took the scenic route from the steamy jungle up over a series of very high passes, including 19,100-foot Amphu Labtsa La, and back down into Tengboche, the original base camp for the 1953 climb, which was hosting a big celebration.

The trek was absolutely stunning and supremely remote. It was also nerve-wracking. Every day we had reports that Maoists were going to intercept us. That never happened, but incompetence among some in our own group proved to be far more dangerous.

The crux of the trip was an almost impossible ask: we had to summit a ā€œminorā€ 17,000-foot pass, cross an ice field, and then get both up and down Amphu Labsta Laā€” all in a day.

I was toward the front of the group when I reached the top of Amphu Labsta La in the afternoon and took a gander at the descent. What I saw terrified me: a 50-degree slope of solid blue ice running at least 400 feet. Getting everyone down was going to be a huge ordeal, since not everyone could rappel on their own.

We ended up having to sleep atop the pass for two nights. Because much of the clientsā€™ gear had been lowered with the porters after the initial night (everyone thought the full group would have rappelled down that day), we found ourselves stranded atop the peak with insufficient equipment. A quick tally revealed we had just three tents, three sleeping bags, and two sleeping pads for 11 people. Four of us piled into my three-person tent, and I spread my sleeping bag as best as I could over us. I didnā€™t sleep at all, just shivered and prayed a storm wouldnā€™t roll in. At first light, exhausted and pissed off at how miserable Iā€™d been, I packed up, clipped into the rope down the pass, and rappelled myself, not waiting for anyone to lower me. You can bet I partied my ass off when we finally got to Tengboche. ā€”Tim Neville

6. Bugged Out

Failing to zip my backpack after sleeping outside in the jungle of Panama had me toting not one, not two, but three massive (and I mean massive) cockroaches with me back to the Panama City hotel where I stayed the night at before my flight home. Between the surprise discovery and the aftermath of dealing with them, I got zero sleep and am still haunted to this day. ā€”Stephanie Vermillion

7. Renting a Car in a Foreign Country Can Come with Pricey Curveballs

A car drives toward a town on the coast of Italy
If you’re road-tripping in Italy but don’t know where to park legally, you could literally pay for it for years to come. (Photo: Roman Babakin/Getty)

In 2019, my wife and I bought cheap tickets to Milan, rented a Fiat, and road-tripped through northern Italy. It was thrilling to speed on the mountainous highways and cruise through quaint villages via winding roads that topped out on ridgelines with views of the Mediterranean below. Because it was spring, there were few tourists, so weā€™d simply park, walk around visiting a plaza or ancient buildings and churches, and continue on. It was all perfectā€”until we got home.

On a monthly basis, I started getting fines in the mailā€”for improper parking, speeding, and driving in restricted residential areas without the requisite permit. At first I thought this was a mistake. Then I realized that every fine was in the place weā€™d visited that day.

After paying hundreds of Euros in penalties, I swore off ever traveling to Italy again. I took to retelling the story of my travails to any Italian who would listen, only to discover this is a common occurrence. One Italian told me that when he returns home, he borrows his momā€™s car, breaks countless rules, and racks up ticket after ticket.

My stance on Italy has since softened, but I still get occasional fines in the mail. I refuse to pay them and try to view them as mementos of one of the best trips of my life. ā€”Ryan Krogh

8. Start Earlier than You Think You Need To

A backcountry skier follows a trail through a grove of aspens from a cabin at night. They are wearing a headlamp.
By the purple twilight of dusk, you hope to be settled in to your backcountry cabinā€”not still slogging to reach it. (Photo: Courtesy ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų_Photo)

Lesson one: Donā€™t underestimate the approach to a backcountry cabin. My friends and I had booked the Eiseman, a popular Tenth Mountain Division hut in the Gore Range outside Vail, Colorado, and getting there required a six-mile ski tour with nearly 3,000 feet of elevation gain. No problem, we thought. We were a hardy crew of experienced backcountry skiers.

What we didnā€™t consider was that Aprilā€™s warming temperatures had turned the snowpack to mush. Combined with a later than expected afternoon departure, the soft, sticky snow glommed to our skins, making travel considerably slow and challenging.

Lesson two: Less is more in the backcountry. We naively stuffed our packs with margarita fixings, avocados, jars of salsa, a foam roller. Needless to say, the ski in took twice as long as expectedā€”we didnā€™t get to the hut until after darkā€”and half our crew ended up dropping gear there and returning to lighten the load of the slower folks. We were a total junk show. That said, the taco party sure was fun. ā€Äā.²Ń.

9. The Pitfalls of an Undocumented Pilgrim

When I thru-hiked Spainā€™s Camino de Santiago, I carried the obligatory pilgrimā€™s passportā€”a thin leaflet littered with official stamps, tucked in a protective plastic bag. It proved Iā€™d walked what amounted to nearly a marathon a day, and it was also my ticket into cheap albergues: glorified hostels reserved solely for pilgrims, where I could soak my feet, thread blisters, rinse my clothes, and crash hard before rising to repeat it all again.

But one day near the end of the trek, in Galicia, a massive storm rolled in while I was eating a sandwich on the side of the road. I hastily repacked my gear and booked the remaining four miles to the nearest town. When I arrived at the albergue that evening, soaking wet and exhausted, I couldnā€™t find my pilgrimā€™s passport, and no pleading with the check-in lady in Spanish would persuade her to give me a bunk without it.

So I retraced my steps, blisters bursting, leg muscles screaming, my head hammered by hail, until I found it blown up against a fence near where Iā€™d stopped for lunch. I never misplaced that passport again. ā€”Patty Hodapp

10. A Different Kind of Wildlife-Watching

A filled bear can and a ziplock bag, both filled with snacks, set on a field in the Alaskan backcountry, with a tent on the horizon.
Bear cans are designed to prevent the animals from getting into the container, but that doesn’t mean they won’t run off with it. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Last year on an off-trail backpacking trip to Wrangellā€“St. Elias National Park, I learned the importance of carrying two to three days of extra food in Alaska. My group was dropped off by a bush plane for a five-day expedition and halfway through the trip, an adolescent grizzly bear ran off with one of our bear cans packed with food. We had to ration supplies for our remaining time, but fortunately, our resourceful guide cobbled together some pretty creative and delicious meals for the final two days. ā€Ģ§.±Ź.

11. A Case for the Carry-on

At the check-in counter for my flight to Germany, where Iā€™d be joining friends to climb in the , I noticed that airline personnel were chatting as they tagged bags. A fleeting thought crossed my mind: Always look at the tag before your bag sails away. But I didnā€™t.

I arrived in Nuremberg to watch an unfamiliar duffle bag circle around on the carousel, while someone in Newfoundland was looking at mine. I was in northern Bavaria in late autumn, with no sleeping bag, tent, or puffy jacket. I did have my climbing shoes and harness in my carry-on, so I went on to a house in nearby Erlangen owned by extremely generous German climbers, who were letting some of our group occupy their basement.

When I explained my dilemma to the leading free climber (RIP and bless him forever), he shrugged, waved me toward his closet, and told me to take any of his clothes. There was only one problem: Iā€™m five foot seven, while he was easily six foot one. I wore his stuff for two days. ā€”Alison Osius

12. Frostbite Has Never Felt So Imminent

Two people wearing red jackets, on their hands and knees amid a snowstorm in Greenland, trying to set up their tent.
The storm that tested the writersā€™ gloves (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

When I camped on the Greenland Ice Sheet two years ago, I learned the hard way to test my gear before bringing it on a trip. I brought ā€œwaterproof glovesā€ that actually werenā€™t waterproof at all. My hands were soaked and freezing within minutes of pitching my tent in a very wet, cold snowstorm. It was 14 degrees out. The next morning I had to thaw the gloves over the mess-tent cookstove. ā€”S.V.

13. Tetotaling at Elevation

Four people looking out at the mountains, each with a glass of wine in hand
Take care of how much you tipple at high altitudes. (Photo: Kobus Louw/Getty)

Alcohol and altitude donā€™t mix, a rule of thumb that took me two notable times in my life to learn. Once I flew from New York City (sea level) to Vail, Colorado, (8,239 feet) for a fun trip with a friend who was writing a story about a professional skier. The skier was going to take us all around the mountain to his favorite spots. The night before, I enjoyed two large glasses of red wine at dinner but had failed to drink much water that day. I woke up nauseous at 2 A.M., threw up for the next three hours, and missed the ski tour.

The second time I was in Chileā€™s Atacama Desert, located at 8,200 feet. I was staying at a gorgeous lodge with fantastic food and wine. This was a few years after Vail, and I had long forgotten that incident. So when the beautiful Chilean cabernet was served at dinner, I drank it, but I was hugging the porcelain again early the next morning. I missed an amazing hike up a volcano. Suffice it to say I now donā€™t drink at altitude and focus on hydrating instead. ā€”Mary Turner

14. Tiny Things That Bite When You Least Expect It

A thick line of army ants in Costa Rica wends across the rainforest floor.
Army ants are something you might not see if you’re not paying attention. But they’re aggressive and quickly swarm when disturbed. (Photo: Education Images/Getty)

I was working for the student newspaper at Montana State University when I got a fax announcing ridiculously low airfare to Costa Rica for spring break, so my brother, girlfriend, and I all went down there to dirtbag it for a week. We were poor, so we packed hammocks, intending to string them between trees on the beach and sleep there.

We made our way to Montezuma, on the Nicoya Peninsula, which back then had one restaurant and a few houses on sandy ā€œstreets.ā€ It was pitch-black when we arrived at the beach, and none of us had a headlamp. My feet felt wet as we crossed what must have been a small stream slipping out of the jungle through leaves. But then the sensation changed and my legs and feet exploded in what felt like fire.

ā€œAnts!ā€ my brother yelled. Weā€™d stumbled right into either a nest or a train of fire ants that proceeded to bite the piss out of our legs. There was nothing to do but strip down and race for the ocean, which we also couldnā€™t see. Waking up to howler monkeys and swimming the next morning made everything right. ā€”T.±·.

The post 13 Travel Mistakes Our Writers Will Never Make Again appeared first on ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online.

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The Insiderā€™s Guide to the Heart of the Italian Alps /adventure-travel/destinations/europe/the-insiders-guide-to-the-heart-of-the-italian-alps/ Tue, 16 Jul 2024 13:29:14 +0000 /?p=2673759 The Insiderā€™s Guide to the Heart of the Italian Alps

Located at the base of Mont Blanc, Courmayeur is an alpine heaven for adventure, views, and mountain culture

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The Insiderā€™s Guide to the Heart of the Italian Alps

If you want to experience a stunning outdoor destination like a local, you need to ask one for advice. Thatā€™s why we talked to Pietro Picco about . The picturesque mountain town has it allā€”hiking, biking, climbing, and amazing food and lodgingā€”and Picco knows it all like few others. He has a deep love for his home mountainsā€”theyā€™ve inspired him to climb peaks like Mont Blanc and K2. Here, get Piccoā€™s insider perspective and advice, and learn why Courmayeur is the ultimate outdoor destination for all kinds of adventurers.

Plan Your Trip

ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų: What makes Courmayeur so special for alpine travelers?Ģż

Pietro Picco: Courmayeur is a lovely mountain townā€”a jewel guarded by the highest mountain in the Alps: Mont Blanc. In Courmayeur, visitors can immerse themselves in Val Ferretā€™s nature, find wild experience in Val Veny, or hike the trails in the ski area. Travelers can also find traditional gourmet Italian cuisine, alpine spas, and luxury stores.

Courmayeur Mont Blanc
Pietro Picco has a deep love for his home mountainsā€”theyā€™ve inspired him to climb peaks like Mont Blanc and K2. (Photo: Pietro Picco)

Find Your Hike

What are your trail recommendations for beginner, intermediate, and advanced hikers looking to experience the beauty of Mont Blanc?

Whether you’re a new or experienced hiker, there are a variety of trails within walking distance from town to explore. Some lead to refugesā€”remote shelters for mountaineers and hikersā€”that make for a rewarding stop.

There are many shops in town that sell and rent anything and everything a hiker could possibly need: boots, poles, backpacksā€”you name it, they have it! You can also book a guided hike with one of the experienced outfitters. Theyā€™ll supply essential gear and teach you about the areaā€™s geology and natural resources.

Courmayeur Mont Blanc
Some trails lead to refuges that make for a rewarding stop. (Photo: Courtesy of Courmayeur Mont Blanc)

I also recommend exploring Val Veny and Val Ferret. Both of these scenic valleys are cradled by cols that border France and Switzerland and have scenic trails leading to viewpoints of the Mont Blanc massif. As you plan your visit to Courmayeur, consider one of these hikes:

Beginner

Rifugio Bonatti

Hike to this mountainside hut and soak in the epic scenery of Val Ferret.

  • Distance: 7 miles
  • Time of Year: May through October

Col de la Seigne

For travelers looking for more of a challenge, this loop offers the perfect balance of technical trail and road.

  • Distance: 13 miles
  • Time of Year: July through September

Intermediate

Balconata della Val Ferret

This scenic point-to-point trail is easily accessible by bus and offers stunning views of Val Ferret.

  • Distance: 5 miles
  • Time of Year: June through October

Traverse this point-to-point route past mountain huts and lakes.

  • Distance: 9 miles
  • Time of Year: June to October

Advanced

Recommended for experienced hikers, this alpine trail explores the Val Sapin, with magnificent views along the way.

  • Distance: 14 miles
  • Time of Year: Summer

Col de MalatrĆ 

If you want the best views of Mont Blanc, this is the perfect out-and-back trail to add to your itinerary.

  • Distance: 11 miles
  • Time of Year: Summer

Try Something New

In addition to hiking, how else can outdoor enthusiasts experience Courmayeur?Ģż

So many ways!

šŸš² Rent mountain bikes (analog or electric) to explore the trails.

šŸš  Take the that climbs to 3,466 meters, offering a unique perspective of the area. From the Skyway, itā€™s also possible to hike on the nearby glacier by booking a trip with an experienced guide.

ā›° Explore the various via ferratas leading to guarded hutsā€”shelters used by mountaineers and managed by guardians in warmer seasonsā€”and unmanned bivouacs.

šŸ§— Climb at the many popular crags or to alpine peaks. Guides are available for both of these activities.

There are plenty of ways to get out and explore the outdoors in Courmayeur. But if the weather turns, the Courmayeur Sport Center offers all sorts of indoor activities, including ice skating, climbing, and tennis.

Courmayeur Mont Blanc
There are a variety of activities for outdoor enthusiasts to experience in Courmayeur. (Photo: Courtesy of Courmayeur Mont Blanc)

Relax in Paradise

What can travelers look forward to after a day of exploring?

Courmayeur is one the Alpsā€™ most attractive villages, with restaurants and bars spilling out onto the car-free center. Aperitivo, gourmet dinners, pizza, traditional Italian foodā€”whatever you crave, itā€™s available here. You can enjoy it all with a spectacular view of Mont Blanc and the Alps. If youā€™re looking for some peace and quiet outside the center, youā€™ll find plenty of restaurants in Val Veny and Val Ferret. Plus, there are shops with luxury brands, sports equipment, and local souvenirs.

For travelers who want a ā€œhome away from homeā€ experience, consider staying at the . This alpine retreat has everything you need for a comfortable nightā€™s rest, with each cozy room looking out on the surrounding nature. At the on-site spa, you can recharge with Secret des Alpes wellness treatments designed for post-alpine recovery, including skin brushing and mountain pasture butter massages, followed with a soak in the heated luxury pool.

Courmayeur Mont Blanc
For travelers who want a “home away from home” experience, stay at the Auberge de la Maison. (Photo: Katie Holmes)

There is a place where your imagination can turn into reality. Where leisure and relaxation come in all shades. A place where flavors can amaze, nature and its views can marvel. It is , a jewel guarded by the highest mountain in the Alps: the Mont Blanc.

After all, only when you reach the summit, you see everything clearly.

Enjoy Courmayeur Mont Blanc. Italy at its peak.

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Why Your Next Trip Should Be to a Blue Zone /adventure-travel/destinations/blue-zone-trips/ Wed, 24 Jan 2024 11:45:22 +0000 /?p=2658148 Why Your Next Trip Should Be to a Blue Zone

This year, travel to one of the healthiest places on earth. We asked Blue Zones expert Dan Buettner for tips on visiting these five destinations, and ways to incorporate longevity habits into your own life.

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Why Your Next Trip Should Be to a Blue Zone

For the past two decades, Dan BuettnerĢżhas traveled the world gathering the wisdom of the worldā€™s longest-living centenarians. The result is seven books for National Geographic on longevity and happiness, the most recent, The Blue Zones Secrets for Living Longer, published in 2023; the Netflix documentary Live to 100: Secrets of the Blue Zones, which claimed the number three spot shortly after its debut in August; and the Blue Zones diet, whose guidelines have inspired millions of people to eat more beans.

ā€˜Live to 100ā€™ Netflix special with Dan Buettner promotional image
The four-part Live to 100 docuseries has been popular since it debuted on Netflix on August 30, 2023, but Dan Buettner’s research on longevity has spanned decades.Ģż(Photo: Courtesy Netflix)

Before he became an oracle, Buettner, who is 63, rode his bike from Alaska to Argentina, around the planet, and across Africa, setting three Guinness World Records. Then he became my boss. In September 2000, Buettner convinced eight of us, including archaeologists, biologists, photographers, videographers, and writers, to cross the Australian outback on bicycles while on a mission to solve the mystery behind theĢż, which Australiaā€™s Indigenous people believe are routes, or land markers, to their ancestors. We interviewed knowledgeable experts and tasted staple foods like witchetty grubs, and beamed our discoveries via satellite to schoolkids following our adventure in real time.

During that six-week quest, however, our lifestyle was the antithesis of one that would ensure a long life. We ate gas station junk food, stayed up until dawn squinting at computer screens, and downed shots of tequila to soothe frayed nerves and celebrate milestones. Months later our team drove through Mexico and Guatemala for another six weeks, this time trying to solve the mystery behind the collapse of the Maya civilization. Had Buettner not shifted his focus to finding the worldā€™s longest-living people, our hard-charging life might have killed us all. But it sure was fun.

In 2009, I wrote a story for ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų as his Blue Zones project started gathering steam worldwide. Buettner is on an ever-evolving quest, but today his lifestyle habits are comparatively monk-like, aligning more closely with his Blue Zones findings. ā€œWhen you marinate in this stuff, you start to taste like it,ā€ he joked when I spoke with him recently, adding that he abides by 90 percent of what heā€™s learned (although the Blue Zones diet frowns upon over-imbibing, he did confess to ringing in the New Year with one shot of very fine tequila).

As the result of the Blue Zones and books like , by Peter Attia with Bill Gifford, and , by David Sinclair, more and more travelers are seeking the fountain of youth. Wellness tourism reached $651 billion in 2022, according to the , and international wellness tourists spent $1,746 per trip that same yearā€”41 percent more than a typical international tourist.

For those who want to travel to the original Blue Zones instead of couching it through the Netflix series, we tapped Buettnerā€™s experience on how to soak up the centuries of health and wellness wisdom found in these five places. ThenĢżwe added our own adventurous ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų twist for each destination.

Why Are the Blue Zones So Healthy?

Dan Buettner sits down to a family lunch in Ikaria, Greece
Dan Buettner (center left) sits down to a family lunch in Ikaria, Greece.ĢżPlant-based meals and keeping family close both play into Blue Zones principles. (Photo: David McLain)

In the early 2000s, the awarded Buettner a grant to identify the worldā€™s longest-living populations and learn their lessons. Independent from Buettnerā€™s work, demographer Michel Poulain and medical statistician Gianni Pes identified Sardinia, Italy, as the region with the highest concentrations of male centenarians. In 2004,Ģżthey published in the Journal of Experimental GerontologyĢżidentifying the region as a ā€œblue zone.ā€ (Pes used blue ink to denote villages of exceptional longevity, hence the name.)Ģż Buettner eventually partnered with Poulain and Pes, and extended the Blue Zones attribution to four additional longevity epicenters around the globe, eventually identifying nine common lifestyle habits found in every one.Ģż He calls these lessons the (outlined below).

ā€œPeople in the Blue Zones donā€™t do any of the stuff that is relentlessly marketed to Americans,ā€ such as eating junk food and going to a gym or a spa, says Buettner. Itā€™s not that people in Blue Zones have better genes, he adds, ā€œitā€™s that their day-to-day unconscious decisions are appreciably better.ā€ And that adds up over decades to more than eight years of additional life expectancy. ā€œBlue Zones has become a movement to change our environment, so we mindlessly make better decisions about our health, and thatā€™s what works,ā€ says Buettner.

Blue Zones Map: Where in the World Are They?

Blue Zones map of the five healthiest locations in the world
This Blue Zones map outlines where each of the worldā€™s healthiest five locations exist. Notice any similarities? (Illustration: Tim Schamber)

As you can see from the Blue Zones on this map, all five fall in middle latitudes with temperate climates. Additionally, says Buettner, ā€œBlue Zones are always hill people. They are not coastal. These cultures ā€œgrew beans and grains and garden greens and tubers, and brilliant women over the course of 100 generations got really good at making this food taste gorgeously delicious.ā€

The Five Blue Zones are:

The Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica: The residents of some of the mountainous villages of this Pacific coastal peninsula are twice as likely as Americans to reach a healthy age of 90.
Okinawa, Japan: Located 400 miles south of the Kyushu (the countryā€™s southwesternmost main island), this 463-sqare-mile destination is home to the oldest women in the world.
Ikaria, Greece: Less than 100 square miles, residents of this tiny north Aegean island live eight years longer than Americans, have half the rate of heart disease of Americans, and almost no dementia.
Loma Linda, California: This bedroom community of Los Angeles is a bedrock for many Seventh Day Adventists who view their health as an integral part of their faith.
Sardinia, Italy: The islandā€™s eastern Ogliastra and Nuoro provinces have the greatest concentration of male centenarians in the world.

The 9 Healthy-Living Principles of the Blue Zones

Blue Zones expert Dan Buettner with his arm around an elderly resident of a village in Costa Rica
Buettner with one of the elderly residents of a Nicoya Peninsula village. According to Blue Zones research, centenarians here have a high sense of purpose.Ģż(Photo: David McLain)

ā€œOnly 25 percent of how long you live is dictated by genes. The other 75 percent is something else,ā€ says Buettner. Given that information, Buettner reasoned that if he could isolate the places where people lived the longest without disease, and then find common denominators between each place, that ā€œought to be something to pay attention to.ā€ The following are the commonalities heā€™s coined the Power 9.

  • Move Naturally: The worldā€™s longest-living people donā€™t pump iron or go to a gym. They live in environments that constantly nudge them to move naturally, as in working in a garden or walking uphill to visit a neighbor.
  • Purpose: Whether itā€™s called ikigai in Okinawa or plan de vida in Nicoya, Blue Zones residents have a reason to wake up every morning.
  • Downshift: Each Blue Zone has a daily routine that diminishes stress; in Sardinia, one such option is happy hour, and in Ikaria that may mean an afternoon nap.
  • 80 Percent Rule: Okinawans recite a 2,500-year-old Confucian mantra before mealtimes, ā€œHara hachi bu,ā€ reminding them to stop eating when their stomach feels 80 percent full. Also, in the Blue Zones, people eat their smallest meal in the early evening and then stop eating until the next day.
  • Plant Slant: Beans are the foundation of most centenarian diets. Meatā€”mostly pork in the Blue Zonesā€”is eaten only five times per month on average, and one portion is three to four ounces, about the size of a deck of cards.
  • Wine at Five: People in every Blue Zone except Loma Linda drink alcohol moderately and regularly, which means one to two glasses per day, consumed with friends and food. Sardinian Cannonnau (known elsewhere as grenache), a robust regional red varietal, has three to four times the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory flavonoids of other wines.
  • Belong: All but five of the 263 centenarians Buettner and his team interviewed belonged to a faith-based community. Denomination doesnā€™t seem to matter.
  • Loved Ones First: Successful centenarians in Blue Zones put their families first. They keep their aging parents or grandparents nearby or at home, commit to a life partner, and invest in their children with time and love.
  • Right Tribe: Blue Zones centenarians were born into or choose social circles that support healthy behaviors. In Okinawa, they create moais, a group of five friends committed to each other for life.

ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųā€™s Ultimate TravelĢżGuide to the Blue Zones

Some Blue Zones are more amenable to mainstream travelers than others, says Buettner. In the two decades since he began to research these five destinations, some have changed dramatically. In Okinawa, for example, U.S. military bases have brought increasing numbers of fast-food restaurants to the island, and many of the original centenarians Buettner interviewed have died. But there are still idyllic pockets in each place where travelers can glean the wisdom and lifestyle of its residents.

Before you book plane tickets, heed Buettnerā€™s advice: ā€œIf youā€™re the type of traveler who likes to meet the locals, are not in a hurry, are intellectually curious, and donā€™t mind staying in a rustic place to really absorb the culture, the Blue Zones are nice places to go. But if youā€™d rather party, get a massage, and order room service, go elsewhere.ā€

Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica

sandy shoreline of Guiones Beach with palm trees and lush vegetation
A misty morning at Playa Guiones in Nosara, Costa RicaĢż(Photo: Getty/Lightphoto)

ā€œThe gateway destination for the Blue Zones is the Nicoya Peninsula,ā€ says Buettner. ā€œItā€™s an easy place to start, because you can book a nice hotel, do a yoga class, eat good food, and meet health-minded people.ā€

Although itā€™s an hour away from the nearest official Blue Zone, Buettner recommends staying in Nosara.Ģż The resort town is lined with five idyllic beaches and outdoor activitiesĢżthat spiral out in every direction. The real Blue Zones, where the centenarians live, however, are the small villages in the mountains above the ocean, like Hojancha and Nicoya, less than 40 miles northeast by road.

girl walking the shore of Nosara with her surfboard nearby
The coastal town of Nosara, with its warm water and gentle swells, is a renowned destination for surfers. (Photo: Jen Murphy)

Where to ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų: Nosara is the perfect oasis for beginner and intermediate surfers, thanks to consistent year-round waves with clean breaks. You can also enjoy mountain biking and hiking in the tropical forest, Pacific fishing charters, and yoga everywhere.

Where to Stay: Buettner recommends the brand-new , which opened January 25 steps from four-mile-long Playa Guiones, one of the most beautiful beaches in Costa Rica. Each of its nine plush private residences has a fully equipped kitchen and other amenities like private barrel saunas. Above is a rooftop bar lining an infinity pool. Buettner will be speaking at the hotel on February 2, but if you miss him, there are plenty of other distractions. Silvestre also offers a studio with a range of wellness classes including yoga, boxing, breath work, tai chi, and movement options for kids and teens.Ģż Three-night minimum stay, from $960 per night

rectangular rooftop pool at Silvestre with soft lounge chairs and a palm tree
The rooftop infinity pool at Silvestre is a good place to unplug. (Photo: Courtesy Silvestre/Sergio Pucci)

The has been a family-run community hub for the past 40 years. More recently it added a surf school, guided hiking and mountain-biking outings. Additionally, the hotel can arrange a custom tour of the nearby Blue Zones with local Spanish-speaking guidesā€”because the centenarians donā€™t speak English. Airy rooms accommodate two to six people. From $276 per night in the low season (May, and September through October) and from $480 per night in the high season (November 1 to December 19, and January 6 to March 31)

gorgeous room at the Gilded Iguana with an outdoor patio
One of the airy, sunny rooms at the Gilded Iguana (Photo: Courtesy the Gilded Iguana/Andres Garcia Lachner)

Where to Eat: Buettner recommends heading to one of the original Blue Zone villages to eat a casado breakfast, a word that translates to a ā€œmarriage,ā€ in this case between fresh corn tortillas and beans. ā€œUntil the year 2000 or so, that was 80 percent of these villagesā€™ caloric intake,ā€ says Buettner. He also recommends stopping at a roadside fruit stand to stock up on mangoes, papayas, guavas, ā€œand all these wonderful fruits that grow in their gardens like weeds.ā€ In Nosara, Soda Rosieā€™s also serves casados. Expats hang out at the Destiny CafĆ©, known for its smoothie bowls, avocado toast, and organic roasted ā€œcloudā€ coffee with fresh coconut milk.

Ikaria, Greece

Buettner hiking up a trail in Ikaria with green hillsides tumbling down to the sea
Buettner treads a hillside trail in Ikaria. Islanders incorporate movement into their daily lives, sometimes just walking over to their neighbors for a visit. (Photo: David McLain)

ā€œIkaria is my personal favorite, because I know and love the people,ā€ Buettner told me, adding that rooms in the guest house where he always stays are still affordable, thereā€™s great hiking on the island, and youā€™re still likely to meet a longevity all-star. ā€œWhen I started coming here, it wasnā€™t known, but today you will sit down with people from Israel, Australia, Italyā€”all over the world.ā€

Where to ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų: ThisĢż island in the Aegean Sea has been off the beaten path since it was first inhabited in the sixth century B.C. There are rugged mountain paths for hikingā€”youā€™ll be sharing them with goat and sheep herdersā€”a growing sport-climbing and bouldering scene, and incredible beaches that require not insignificant descents. On Messakti Beach, which beckons with a sandy-bottom break and gentle waves, is a one-stop shop offering daily surf and SUP lessons, as well asĢż rentals and yoga on the beach. For an insidersā€™ view of the interior, sign up for a trek with , whose local guides who know the inland paths like the back of their hand.

beach-goers wade into an impossibly turquoise inlet on the island of Ikaria
Not a bad inlet in Ikaria for enjoying a swim and soaking up some vitamin D. (Photo: Getty/Gatsi)

Where to Stay: Buettner always boards at , in the northwestern village of Nas. The owners, Thea and Ilias Parikos, are dear friends of his. The inn ā€œhas a gorgeous deck overlooking the Aegean, and the family gets most of their food from an enormous garden right next door.ā€ Plus, notes Buettner, ā€œThea herself will always sit down and talk to you.ā€ Beyond the familial vibe and incredible food (some of her recipes can be found in the Blue Zone Solution cookbook), the property is directly above one of the islandā€™s best beaches. Choose from one of five rustic rooms, each with personal bathrooms and French doors that open to a private balcony overlooking the sea, plus a small refrigerator for storing fresh herbs foraged on a hike. Time your visit for Theaā€™s cultural-immersion retreat, designed to teach guests how to incorporate the Blue Zonesā€™ Power 9 habits into their daily lives. From $33

Where to Eat: It will be difficult to find better meals and views than the restaurant terrace of Theaā€™s Inn. She and her staff serve Ikarian specialties like soufiko and bean stew, a version of ratatouille, the vegetables of which ā€œwill likely have been in the garden five hours earlier,ā€ says Buettner. Another beautiful spot Buettner recommends is , run by George and Eleni Karimalis, who work with grapes from a revived 500-year-old vineyard. ā€œThey have great cooking classes and make a very satisfactory wine,ā€ says Buettner.

Sardinia, Italy

girl in a red kayak paddles the clear turquoise waters toward a sandy beach on Sardiniaā€™s Ogliastra coast
Sardiniaā€™s Ogliastra coast is both wild and beautiful, with numerous inlets for swimming. Hikers can head inland, where the Blue Zoneā€™s villages are located, for some serious trekking. (Photo: Getty/REDA&CO)

Sardiniaā€™s Ogliastra and Nuoro provinces are worth the travel time. ā€œItā€™s a road trip to get there,ā€ says Buettner, but the cluster of five villagesā€”Arzana, Talana, Baunei, Urzulei, and Triei are the most picturesque. Seulo, farther south, is home to the highest concentration of centenarians.

Where to ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų: Test yourself on the 33-mile Selvaggio Blu route, seen in the video below. It starts near the coastal town of Santa Maria Navaresse, involves sketchy scrambling and via ferratas, has jaw-dropping views of the cliffs and Tyrrhenian Sea, and is dubbed the toughest trek in Italy. offers a less extreme option with its seven-day Wild Blue Zone Trek (not affiliated with Buettnerā€™s Blue Zones), where youā€™ll explore the 25-mile-long Orosei coastline, hiking to unexplored beaches, on narrow rocky trails along white sea cliffs, and spending two nights on a private boat anchored in cerulean waters. The tough limestone in Nuoro also makes it one of the premier sport-climbing destinations in Italy, with slabs, steep walls, and wicked overhangs.

Where to Stay: Santa Maria Navaresse, while not in the official Blue Zone, is a ā€œnice seaside town with decent restaurants,ā€ says Buettner. Base yourself there and youā€™re less than 20 miles from the nearest Blue Zone of Arzana. , a family-run, 12-room hotel, sits 150 feet from the beach and near an 11th-century church next to a thousand-year-old grove of olive trees. With free beach towels and umbrellas and sunbeds available, the beach of Santa Maria Navarrese is an extension of the hotel. From $178

Where to Eat: According to Buettner, to experience a true Blue Zones meal, youā€™ll need to be invited into the home of a local, because restaurants in these villages cater to special events like birthday parties and, as a result, ā€œthe menu looks like a roasted petting zoo, with goat and pigletā€ā€”more celebratory foods than staples. The Nascar hotelā€™s restaurant menu is more seafood heavy than a traditional Blue Zones diet, but the red prawns are freshly caught.

Okinawa, Japan

narrow pathway between tropical foliage leads to a white-sand beach with a turquoise bay and a view of Okinawa's Kerama Islands
More than 150 islands make up the Okinawa prefecture. The Kerama Islands are home to pristine scenery like this, as well as a national park.Ģż(Photo: Getty/Peteā€™s Photography)

ā€œOkinawa as a Blue Zone is gone. The only vestiges of it are the oldest people. You have to be a committed traveler to find them and also need to hire a guide, because nobody speaks English,ā€ says Buettner. Sadly, the island now has the highest rate of obesity in Japan, largely due to the fast food introduced with the creation of the U.S. military bases. It may be lost as a Blue Zone, but Okinawa still has pockets of beauty, with stunning waterfalls, white-sand beaches, and dreamy resorts on the outer islands.

Where to ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų: The Yanbaru region, which includes on the main island of Okinawa, was designated a Unesco World Natural Heritage site in 2021. Its name translates to ā€œdensely forested mountains,ā€ andĢż its lush forests and limestone peaks make for incredible sightseeing. Hike to 75-foot-high Hiji waterfall, the highest on the island, paddle the Gesashi Bay Mango Forest, and camp near off-the-beaten-path beaches. Thereā€™s also an incredible undersea world off some of Okinawaā€™s satellite islands, like Ishigaki, where you can snorkel among healthy coral reefs, dive with manta rays, and soak up some vitamin D.

A man stands in a pool at the base of the short but powerful Arawaka Falls, surrounded by lush green foliage and palm trees
On Osaka’s far-flung Ishigaki Island, a ramble through the rainforest to reach Arawaka Falls rewards hikers with a pool where they can take a dip. (Photo: Getty/Ippei Naoi)Ģż

Where to Stay: In Yanbaru, the whimsical accommodations at the boast 360-degree views of the sub-tropical evergreens, and offer a symphony of bird sounds along with a sauna for increased relaxation. (From $826 per night for up to six people.) On Ishigaki, the lines a half-mile long, sugar-sand beach. With 17 room and villa types surrounded by subtropical gardens, and activities on offer from resort diving courses to swimming off remote islands, thereā€™s plenty of space to find privacy. From $147Ģż

Where to Eat: Buettner recommends in the seaside village of Ogimi, which relies on the same seasonal vegetables that have been harvested from nearby fields for centuries. Because of its popularity and authenticity, reservations are required.

Loma Linda, California

mountain biker wearing a helmet arrives at a ridgetop in Loma Linda, California
Loma Lindaā€™sĢżeastern playground of Palm Springs is just an hour’s drive away. Mountain biking, hiking, and horseback riding there are all popular outdoor activities for adventure enthusiasts. (Photo: Getty/Michael Svoboda)

ā€œLoma Linda is a very hard Blue Zone to see, because itā€™s about residentsā€™ Adventist lifestyleā€”no drinking, no smoking, a 24-hour Sabbath, and church on Saturday morning,ā€ says Buettner of the 9,000 Seventh Day Adventists who live here. But itā€™s possible to live the Loma Linda lifestyle for at least a day, then retire to nearby Palm Springs, 50 miles southeast on I-10, for further adventure.

Where to ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų: Do as the Loma Lindans do and spend a day at the University of Loma Lindaā€™s , a one-stop shop for fitness classes, aquatics, nutrition classes, and, of course, a wicked game of pickleball.

Where to Stay: , in Palm Springs, offers a respite from the world. Set on 1.5 acres, two historic villas were combined to create a lush Mediterranean-and-Moroccan-themed oasis of bungalows, guesthouses, gardens and pools. Wake up with a yoga class, head to the Tahquitz Canyon for a short, rigorous, sweaty hike to a 60-foot waterfall, then return to lounge poolsidethe rest of the day. From $220

Where to Eat: Being in one of the worldā€™s five Blue Zones, claims to have the largest vegan and vegetarian meat selections in Southern California. It also has treats like gluten-free, vegan, chocolate peanut butter cupcakes.

Stephanie Pearson walking her mountain bike across a shallow streamed on Utahā€™s Great Western Trail
The author on Utahā€™s Great Western Trail during anĢżŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų assignment to cover the newĢżAquarius TrailĢżbikepacking hut systemĢż(Photo: Courtesy Jen Judge)

ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų contributing editor and 2023 National Geographic Explorer Stephanie Pearson lives in northern Minnesota and gives herself a solid B average when it comes to maintaining the Power 9.

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These Are the Most Beautiful Mountains Iā€™ve Ever Seen /adventure-travel/destinations/europe/dolomite-mountains-italy-hiking/ Thu, 18 Jan 2024 13:00:27 +0000 /?p=2657803 These Are the Most Beautiful Mountains Iā€™ve Ever Seen

Iā€™ve traveled to many U.S. national parks, explored most of the American West, and walked the streets of Paris. But nothing compares to this mountain paradise.

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These Are the Most Beautiful Mountains Iā€™ve Ever Seen

Itā€™s a Friday afternoon in fall, and the A27 highway is deserted as small Italian villages and dormant farmland pass by the windows of our rental car. Iā€™m focused on the true crime podcast coming through the speakers when the low layer of clouds suddenly parts. The gasp I make rattles my husband Topher, who jerks the wheel in concern that weā€™re about to hit something. Itā€™s a tense thirty seconds of me unhelpfully squealing, ā€œlook, look, look!ā€ before he sees the mountains, too. Like out of a dream, the peaks Iā€™ve been fantasizing about for years get closer and closer as we eat up the kilometers: the Dolomites.

Topher, our 60-pound dog, and I are driving from Croatia. Iā€™m craning my neck to take in the imposing, snow-dusted peaks as we rapidly start climbing through a valley carved by a river blue gray with glacial run-off. Iā€™d fallen in love with Italy before I could even point to it on a map thanks to my dadā€™s Navy stint there in the 80s. I grew up on stories of pasta swimming in garlic, skiing across international borders, and crazy Italian driversā€”all punctuated by the wild gesticulation my folks had picked up while living there. When we finally crossed the Atlantic on my first international flight to visit Tuscany the summer I turned 18, it was like seeing a favorite musician in concert for the first time. My love was firmly cemented.

As I got older and honed my passions, most of which revolve around big mountains I can hike or ski or bike, I stumbled upon photos of the Dolomites. The home of storied alpinists like Reinhold Messner, the mythical looking mountains, so different from the Rockies I grew up in, enchanted me. I showed my mountaineer dad pictures, and he corrected my pronunciation. The Doh-loh-mee-teeā€”not the frequent American mispronunciation doh-low-mightsā€”were definitely badass, he confirmed.

Croda da Lago Trail, Dolomites, Italy
The viewpoint overlooking Cortina d’Ampezzo, the prettiest place Mikaela Ruland has ever been. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

The more elevation we gain, the less Iā€™m paying attention to the podcast. I finally pause it so I can more effectively ooh and ahh. Iā€™d planned our fall trip to hopefully coincide with the changing of the larch treesā€”conifers straight out of a Dr. Seuss book, with furry looking branches filled with needles that turn gold in October and drop to the ground in winter. I hadnā€™t accounted for the rest of the foliage hitting its peak this same weekend. The hillsides are practically glowing in every shade from yellow to orange to red. Each new valley we enter is ringed by endless rocky peaks, the most delicate coating of snow clinging to their crevices. Still-green meadows sprawl out underneath them and perfect little villages with terracotta roofs cling to the sides of the narrow road as it winds up, up, up. Iā€™m torn between memorizing the names of the peaks from Google Maps so I can come back and explore them, and just soaking in their grandeur.

We drive through the ski town of Cortina »åā€™A³¾±č±š³ś³ś“Ē and head up a windy road towards a looming pass. Many of the buildings along the route are emblazoned with the red squirrel symbol of the Scoiattoli Cortina mountaineering and ski club, a group of alpinists world renowned for their first ascents of the east wall of Mount BlancĢżand most of the peaks surrounding us now. Weā€™re on hallowed ground.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, Iā€™m not alone in my adoration of the Dolomites. Stretching nearly 550 square miles across northeastern Italy, the mountain range is home to more than 12 ski resorts, including the two-time winter Olympics destination of Cortina »åā€™A³¾±č±š³ś³ś“Ē. The jagged peaks and serene valleys are an outdoor enthusiastā€™s dream come true. You can hike, climb, and mountain bike in the summer, ski, snowshoe and ice skate natural lakes in the winter. With 18 3,000-meter peaks and countless mountain villages blending Austrian and Italian architecture, thereā€™s a lifetime worth of exploration in this region.

Rifugio Croda da Lago, Dolomite Mountains, Italy
Rifugio Croda da Lago reflecting in Lago Federa. The mountain hut is open from June to November, and you can book a stay or stop for lunch on the deck. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)Ģż

Iā€™m sure Topher is tired of me saying ā€œThis is wild,ā€ but I canā€™t find any other words. Travel writers are fond of declaring a place fairytale-like, but the peaks and valleys surrounding me feel more like something out of a fantasy novel. I half expect a dragon to come flying out from behind the nearest summit. The road leads us through a golden forest, and I realize the larches I was so keen to see donā€™t require hiking to view. They surround us on all sides.

We arrive at the summit of Passo Tre Croci and check-in to our no frills hotel perched above the village of Cortina Dā€™Ampezzo below. Thereā€™s a trailhead leading away from the parking lot, and we frolic down it for a ways, letting the dog stretch her legs in the dying light. When we get to our room, I throw the windows wide open and take pictures of the sun turning the peaks pink until the stars come out. The bartender downstairs pours us Aperol spritzes and lets the dog make herself at home on a thick pelt acting as a rug. Then she returns with a plate of ham and cheese sandwiches with delicate grill marks from the panini press for us, and I can tell Italy has already won my husband over.

The next morning, the sky is still dark and star-studded as we drive back down the pass, through Cortina, and up the mountains across the valley toward the Ponte di Rocurto trailhead where we had chosen to hike. All the cafes we pass are closed, making me glad Iā€™d downed a cup of sludgy instant coffee in the room.

The road is already lined with cars when we get there and the sun still hasnā€™t risen. Itā€™s as bad as some of Coloradoā€™s notoriously crowded fourteeners, but I reason with myselfā€”and Topherā€”that the trail leads to several multi-day routes, with mountain huts along the way, so maybe the hike wonā€™t be that busy. We get lucky as we start climbing the six-mile trail to Lago Federa and donā€™t see another soul. The route is steeper than weā€™d banked on and so we hike quietly, aside from our heavy breathing.

As we pass gaps in the trees, the mountain on the other side of the valley shows itself, powdered sugar snow clinging to the face, clouds playing peek-a-boo with us as we go. The first of the sunlight filters through the canopy and sets the golden larches around us aglow. The trail is covered in a thick carpet of needles and my breath fogs. I wonder if it would be macabre to tell Topher to scatter my ashes in this mountain range when I die, having been here for less than 12 hours. I look back down the trail at him, slogging his way unhappily up the incline, and think better of it.

Topher Yanagihara on the patio at Rifugio Croda da Lago
Topher Yanagihara, Ruland’s husband, enjoying a cappuccino and ricotta cake on the patio at Rifugio Croda da Lago. The food in the Dolomites is off-the-chartsĢżgood. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

That doesnā€™t change the sentiment, though, as my dog and I power up the trail. I start flipping through my mental list of the prettiest places Iā€™ve ever been. An achingly still morning canoeing across Washingtonā€™s Lake Crescent. The streets of Paris. Sunset in my favorite valley outside of Aspen, Colorado. The frozen forests of Finnish Lapland, the Northern LightsĢżdancing across the sky. Thereā€™s a split in the trail and shows a short path ending in a binoculars symbol. Topher is out of sight at this point, so the dog and I take the detour. Tears spring to my eyes as we reach the fence at the end, keeping us from plummeting off the cliff. It doesnā€™t matter which direction I look, striking mountains peeking out from behind wispy clouds, golden hillsides and postcard-worthy villages crowned by church spires sprawl out in front of me. Thereā€™s no competition. This is the prettiest place Iā€™ve ever been.

When Topher arrives, I watch him take in the scene before pulling out his phone to snap a picture. Heā€™s still grumpy from the more-than-we-bargained-for hiking grade, but I can tell heā€™s enchanted, too. The trail levels out and before we know it weā€™re approaching the lake weā€™ve come to see. The curved horn of Croda da Lagoā€™s peak reflects in the glass-still water, the entire scene bathed in a warm glow where the sun hits the thousands of larches around us. The lake is lined with photographers, but everyone speaks in the hushed, reverent tones the landscape demands.

We take a million photos and wander the shore, soaking in the autumn sun and the stunning views. On the far side of the lake, we post up on the patio of a mountain hut called and drink cappuccinos and eat ricotta cake and apple strudel. This rifugio, one of the few open this late in the season, takes overnight guests, but not dogs. Iā€™m already pining to come back next summer, my eyes focused on the trail that wanders over the next ridgeline, surely leading towards more incredible beauty, delicious food, and heart pumping climbs.

Cinque Torri hike, Dolomites, Italy
The view from Cinque TorriĢż brought tears to the author’s eyes. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

That evening, we tuck ourselves into a booth in the back of a tiny restaurant called Il Vizietto di Cortina, which is full to bursting. The night before weā€™d tried the local specialtiesā€”beetroot ravioli covered in butter and poppyseeds (casunziei) and Ampezzo potatoes cooked with caramelized onions and speck. Tonight weā€™re trying dishes from other regions of Italy, and our table is soon laden down with bowls of seafood spaghetti dotted with scampi and clams, Amatriciana with speck and cherry tomatoes, and Aperol spritzes (even though itā€™s cold enough for puffies). Thereā€™s twinkle lights in the windows and the soundtrack is a cacophony of ItalianĢżand bottles being uncorked and clinking forks, and while Iā€™m a hopeless romantic when someone sets a bowl of pasta in front of me, this too is excruciatingly beautiful.

Iā€™d sketched out a few hopeful hikes for the next morning, but when we awake our feet are tired and the sky is gloomy. The 8.3-mile hike to Lago di Sorapisā€™ Gatorade-blue waters will have to wait until next time. Instead, we find a local bakery and save a pair of backpacking Brits who donā€™t have any cash and are trying to buy a baguette. We marvel at the croissants and cornettos weā€™ve filled our bag with as we wind up the mountain.

Our target is Cinque Torriā€”the five rock towers visible from town. In the summer, thereā€™s a lift running up to its base. In the off season, thereā€™s a steep, several-mile trail under the chairlift or a dubious looking road travel bloggers have warned us against. I give Topher the choiceā€”heā€™s heard thereā€™s a World War I museum at the top so thereā€™s no turning back nowā€”and he opts to maneuver our little rental car with a concerning lack of ground clearance up the dirt road. Itā€™s not long before we pass an abandoned Land Rover and I grip the sides of my seat, reminding myself of all the wild places heā€™s navigated our Subaru back home. Maybe we should have opted for the additional insurance.

Before long weā€™ve climbed out of the trees and park underneath a rifugio that’s boarded up for the off-season. Above our heads, the towers loom large. We climb a short, muddy road and find ourselves at the top of the ski lift. Below us, bunkers from World War I are hidden amongst the rocks so well I canā€™t pick them out.ĢżHere, the Italian Army made their stand against the Austro-Hungarians. We wander through the bunkers, peering out through gun sights and reading information panels, imagining what the young men who were stationed here more than a hundred years earlier had been thinking. It starts snowing, itty bitty flakes that melt the second they hit my jacket.

Itā€™s time to drive home, fueled by cappuccinos and ricotta cake from a restaurant we pass on the way back down to Cortina. As we head through the last tunnel, leaving the Dolomites for the plains below, I promise myself this wonā€™t be the last time I visit. Iā€™ve already got plans swimming through my mind of ski trips and hikes between rifugios, and for the first time in years I think about starting to rock climb again. Thereā€™s a siren song from these mountains, beckoning me up and up and up. Who am I not to listen?

is the associate content director for . This year, she and her husband Topher are spending as much as time as possible exploring in Europe.ĢżĢżĢżĢż

Mikaela Ruland and her dog at Rifugio Croda da Lago
Ruland enjoys a break at Rifugio Croda da Lago after a hike in the Dolomites (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

Ģż

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Weā€™re Headed to These ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Destinations This FallĢż /adventure-travel/advice/where-to-travel-this-fall/ Sun, 27 Aug 2023 11:00:04 +0000 /?p=2643731 Weā€™re Headed to These ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Destinations This FallĢż

With sunny skies and cooler temperatures,Ģżfewer crowds, and off-season deals to be had, fall may be our favorite getaway season. Here where our editors are headed.

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Weā€™re Headed to These ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Destinations This FallĢż

Put off by summerā€™s heat, crowds, and high prices, many of our editors pushed their big travel plans to fall this year. Theyā€™re also not explicitly headed to do any leaf-peeping but rather are intent on bagging a peak or two in the Berkshires, surfing the swell in Maine, forest-bathing in Japan, and giving van life a go in New Zealand (where it will soon be spring), among other active pursuits.ĢżOne editor was so excited about her upcoming trip, she guiltily confessed she’d been ā€œtrying not to wish away the summer.ā€ Here’s what’s in the works.

Keeping the Love Alive in Savannah and Surrounds

A man motors an outrigger canoe across the swampy waters of Tybee Island
Moon River, Tybee Island (Getty Images/John Elk)

My husband and I willĢżhead to Savannah, Georgia, to celebrate our first anniversary. I was skeptical when he suggested itā€”Savannah is flat, and I imagined climbing a massive mountain near our home in Taos, New Mexicoā€”but after Google revealed a shocking amount of wilderness nearby, I got on board. Hereā€™s why Iā€™m stoked: Weā€™ll post up at the downtown Kimpton Brice Hotel (a sweet splurge for us, as we’reĢżchronic campers), where we can walk to several city parks and the Savannah River. The hotel offers free bikes, so we plan to cruise the cobblestone streets and then hit Truman Linear Park Trail and Lake Mayer Park, stopping for fresh seafoodĢż(a luxury we donā€™t have in the high desert). On the day of our anniversary, weā€™ll ferry to Tybee Island, a paddling mecca just 18 miles east. Weā€™ll rent kayaks from , scope out sheltered waters between the 1,200 or so surrounding barrier islands, and picnic from the boats before renewing our vows at the Tybee Island Lighthouse. Then itā€™s back to town and the bar to wrap up the trip. One of the many reasons I married this wonderful man is because he plans unexpected adventures that wouldnā€™t otherwise be on my radar. ā€”Patty Hodapp, ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online interim digital director

Freewheeling on New Zealandā€™s South Island

Three hikers top out on a high section of New Zealand's Kepler Track, with incredible views of the surrounding peaks
The Kepler Track, a 37-mile loop in Fiordland National Park, is located about 100 miles southwest of Queenstown. Ģż(Courtesy Jon Dorn)

My son is studying in New Zealand, so Iā€™m inspired to do something I’ve always dreamed of: live the van life, if only for a while. I’m headed to the South Island in mid-October and have reserved a sweet rig from for about a month. Other than that, my plans are loosey-goosey. Iā€™ll road-trip around in search of the best ā€œfreedom-campingā€ spots: some 500 locations that are free but offer basic amenities.ĢżMy friend Patrice La Vigne wrote a book about her exploration of the country, ĢżandĢżIā€™ve already cherry-picked some of her favorite spots, including the Queen Charlotte Track and the Nelson Lakes and Aoraki/Mount Cook National Parks, to name a few. I’ll hang in Wanaka for a few daysā€”a supercool mountain town, kind of like the Chamonix of New Zealandā€”and Iā€™ll check out Queenstown and probably indulge in a or two (according to Patrice, the cityā€™sĢżiconic fast-food joint is not to be missed). When my son finishes up his semester in mid-November, I’ll pick him up in Christchurch and we’ll hit the Kepler Track, one of the countryā€™s ten Great Walks. ā€”Kristin Hostetter, ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Inc. head of sustainability and contributing editor

Getting Off the Tourist Track in Japan

Japan has long been on my bucket list, but I didnā€™t want to take a group tour and was afraid the language barrier would prevent me from adequately planning a trip myself. How wrong I wasā€”you donā€™t, in fact, need a travel agent or tour operator to build your own trip to this country, but you will need time for research. In mid-October, my brother and I are flying into Osaka and will stay two nights at a ryokan in Kyoto, then fly south to the island of Yakushima, a Unesco World Heritage site whose ancient cedar forests set the scene for Studio Ghibliā€™s film Princess Mononoke. (I highly recommend the outfitter , whose staff promptly emailed responses and booked our accommodations, a guided hike and stand-up-paddleboard river tour, and a rental car). After roaming around there, weā€™ll hop an hourlong flight to the city of Fukuoka to pick up another rental car,Ģżand then off we’ll drive to the onsen community of Kurokawa, two hours southeast, for forest bathing while we soakĢżin various hot springs. Iā€™m looking forward to wearing the yukata (a casual kimono) as we walk from bathhouse to bathhouse. Weā€™ll return to Fukuoka, board the bullet train to Osaka (a limited-service that runs this route is just the cutest), and spend our last days hiking two sections of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. Props to the tourism bureau that maintains this for English speakers: it answered all of our questions, on baggage transfer, nightly stays, bus service, altitude gain and loss, and estimated hiking duration. Aside from feeling anxious about driving on the opposite side of the road, and possibly getting lost, Iā€™m fully confident that this is going to be a bucket-list adventure for the books. ā€”Tasha Zemke, ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųĢżmagazine associate managing editor

Running the Desert in Perfect Weather in Joshua Tree

A woman on a boulder looking over the vista of Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park (Photo: Getty Images/Peathegee Inc)

I’m heading to Joshua Tree National Park to race a half marathon with my mom in November. Fall is a great time to visit this national park in California, as the weather cools down from the scorching summer heat, so you can enjoy exploring without feeling like you’re melting. And while the nights can get a little chilly, itā€™s nothing a cozy jacket can’t handle. Weā€™ve chosen to stay at , a chic and modern cluster of spacious Airstream campers and cabins. A hike around the park is a must! You’ll come across crazy Joshua trees that look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book, cool rock formations, and even hidden oases that you won’t believe exist in the desert. (I like the , a three-mile out-and-back.) Oh, and the sunsets here are mind-blowing. Joshua Tree is also a hub for bouldering, with loads of granite formations to climb, no matter your skill level. In town, don’t miss the Joshua Tree Coffee Company, just a block from the parkā€™s visitor center. Its espresso con panna will wake you right up. ā€”Sierra Shafer, Ski magazine editor in chief

Hiking the Hills over a Wedding Weekend in Williamstown

The cathedral of historic Williamstown, Massachusetts rises above a mountain covered in red, yellow, and green fall foliage
Historic Williamstown in the fall (Photo: Courtesy DestinationWilliamstown)

Over Labor Day, my husband, Mike, and I will travel to Williamstown, in northwestern Massachusetts, for the wedding of a dear former coworker. It will be a reunion, with others from the old crew at Big Stone Publishing coming in from London, Las Vegas, and Asheville, North Carolina. Mike and I will fly into Albany, New York, 40 miles west, on Friday. I always figure that you can hikeā€”or walk, in a city or a parkā€”in most places, even if a trip is not recreational. Of course, it helps that weā€™re headed to a hiking haven like the Berkshires. For Saturday Iā€™ve pegged , a three-to-four-mile out-and-back up 1,893-foot Pine Cobble Mountain, where we can look out over historic Williamstown (once Mohican hunting grounds, and settled by others in 1749) and the Hoosic River valley. I hope to rally friends! Before the ceremony, we have a window where we could walk around the Clark Art Institute, with its marble gallery, backdrop of rolling green hills, and 140 acres of wooded trails. Mike also wants to head up 3,491-foot Mount Greylock, the highest peak in the state, boasting a 90-mile view; for Greylock, we could fit in the 2.6-mile before flying home late Monday afternoon (the 5.5-mile also looks great but would necessitate way too early a start). And we might as well pack climbing shoes in case of available bouldering. (I wonder if we could pass as students at the Williams College wall?) The town has a good farm-to-table scene, and my friend recommends Mezze, though pricey. Another option, the Barn looks casual, just right. ā€”Alison Osius, ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųĢżmagazine senior editor

Celebrating the End of a National ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų in Hawaii

A sporty-looking woman standing on a bluff looking over the Na Pali coast and Pacific Ocean
The hike on Kauaiā€™s Na Pali coast is famous for its incredible views and precipices.Ģż(Photo: Courtesy Matt Skenazy)Ģż

This fall Iā€™m completing a challenge a quarter-century in the making. I grew up going on a bunch of road trips (the most notable being a 19-day, 5,000-mile adventure with my parents and brother in the family Prius), and before I was even able to drive, Iā€™d already visited 30 states. So I turned my penchant for road trips into a project to visit all 50 states before my 25th birthday. The only criteria: I had to do something fun or memorable in each state, and layovers didnā€™t count. Everyone always asks what my least favorite states have been; I donā€™t have a least favorite, because thereā€™s something in every state for everyone. That said, I do have two favorites: Utah and Vermont. I love hiking through red rocks and dense hardwood forests, and Iā€™ve gone back many times just to hit my favorite trails in both locales. As the clock ticks closer to my birthday in mid-November, thereā€™s only one state left to check off: Hawaii. I thought it fitting to visit the 50th state as my 50th and final one. I have big plans to fly to Kauai and hike the in Na Pali Coast State Wilderness Park. Because it won’t beĢżpeak season, wasnā€™t too hard. My dream is to cap off that day with a hefty scoop of Hanalei Sunrise ice cream at Pinkā€™s Creamery. Or maybe two scoops. It is my birthday, after all. ā€”Emma Veidt, Backpacker assistant editor

Anticipating a HomecomingĢżin Asheville

People sitting at tables and at the bar of Curate, a notable restaurant in Asheville. A sign in the back above hanging cured ham hocks, reads "Jamoneria."
CĆŗrate, a convivial James Beard Awardā€“winning eatery in downtown Asheville, serves Spanish-style tapas. (Photo: Getty Images/The Washington Post)

My mom grew up in Asheville, North Carolina, and has always wanted to show my brothers and me around her hometown. My boyfriend has ties there, tooā€”his sister moved there from New Mexico several years ago. So Iā€™m headed to this popular outdoor destination in October with both my parents, my siblings, and my partner for four days. Weā€™ve rented a home on a nice plot of land just outside of town, where we’ll be able to have campfires and soak in a hot tub under the stars. Hopefully our trip will happen right as the leaves are firing in all their fall colors. It’s an active bunch, so we’ll hike, maybe ride some singletrack, or fly-fish for trout in the streams of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Beyond that, we’re excited to sample the highly touted food and drink scene. My boyfriend’s sister runs The Garden, a food truck that often posts up at one of three Wedge brewery locations around town, so we’ll definitely check that out. ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų has also run some great stories about Asheville recently, with recommendations from singer Angel Olsen on her favorite hangouts and tips from other locals, so we’ll consult those when planning our day-to-day. ā€“Abigail Barronian, ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųĢżmagazine senior editor

Larch-Peeping Beneath the Peaks of the Dolomites

A green field looking out at the craggy Italian Dolomites
The craggy Dolomites are full of hiking trails that are popular year-round (Photo: Courtesy Jamie Aranoff)

For part of a longer trip to Europe this fall, Iā€™ve carved out a weekend in the Italian Dolomites when the larches change color. As deciduous conifers (which feels like an oxymoron but surprisingly isnā€™t), larchesĢżhave needles that turn yellow before droppingĢżoff each autumn. Iā€™ve been obsessed with these weird and wonderful trees since I first saw a photo of them in Washingtonā€™s Cascades, and was delighted to learn that they grow thickly near the Italian ski town of Cortina »åā€™A³¾±č±š³ś³ś“Ē. My husband and IĢżbooked a bed-and-breakfast in townā€”the options are many, and quite affordable in the autumn off-seasonā€”and plan to spend a few days in late October hiking through the forests under the towering peaks. While I have more trails on my list than I know weā€™ll be able to accomplish, Iā€™m most excited for the 7.8-mile Croda da Lago circuit. The highlight of this moderate day hike is Lago Federa, a larch-ringed lake beneath the face of one of this areaā€™s most distinct peaks.ĢżLunch at Rifugio Palmieri, one of the only mountain huts in the region that stays open through October, is a no-brainer. ā€”Mikaela Ruland, National Park Trips associate content director

Surfing and Kayaking in Maine

A surfer catches a barrel off Higgins Beach, Maine, while a new set of waves comes in.
Solid sets and swell in the fall make for good surfing at Higgins Beach, south of Portland. (Photo: Getty Images/Portland Press Herald)

I grew up visiting Maine almost every summer, but next month Iā€™ll be traveling to Portland for the first time, for my older brotherā€™s wedding. Both my brother and his fiancĆ©e also went to school in Maine (sheā€™s a many-generation Mainer), soĢżit feels bizarre that I havenā€™t been to the state’s largest cityĢżyet. Weā€™re staying in an Airbnb close to the wedding-party venueā€”, an old church turned restaurantā€”in between the West End and Old Port districts. The neighborhood is a ten-minute walk from the harbor, where we plan to rent some sea kayaks and explore the plethora of islands that dot Casco Bay. So far my summer has mostly consisted of outings on rivers and lakes, so I canā€™t wait to get some ocean time in. And if I can swing it, Iā€™ll go surfing at Higgins Beach, nine miles south of Portland. Fall is the best time to surf in New England, and by mid-September there should be some good swells. I also canā€™t wait to check out Portlandā€™s burgeoning food scene. My friends tell me the is a special low-key place to get a lobster roll overlooking the ocean. ā€”Kelly Klein, ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶųĢżmagazine associate editor

The post Weā€™re Headed to These ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Destinations This FallĢż appeared first on ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online.

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This Elite Running Camp in Tuscany Is a Dream /running/news/tuscany-run-camp/ Wed, 23 Aug 2023 13:12:39 +0000 /?p=2643551 This Elite Running Camp in Tuscany Is a Dream

In the rural Italian village of San Rocco a Pilli, seven top runners prepared for the World Athletics Championships while living in an 18th century villa. Welcome to Tuscany Camp.Ģż

The post This Elite Running Camp in Tuscany Is a Dream appeared first on ŗŚĮĻ³Ō¹ĻĶų Online.

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This Elite Running Camp in Tuscany Is a Dream

Yohanes Chiappinelli, 26, sits on a wooden bench alongside five other international runners inside a small church in the countryside. Soft orange light gleams outside the entrance on this Tuesday evening in Tuscany. The Ethiopian-born Italian marathoner, currently the fourth-fastest in the country, is dressed in blue jeans, a grey hoodie and running shoes. He quietly waits during the golden hour as a priest lights candles at an altar. These athletes are here for a benediction 11 days before the start of the World Athletics Championships.

Italian coach Giuseppe Giambrone likes his runners to be blessed before important competitions. He is a man so religious that he crosses himself to acknowledge Godā€™s presence multiple times a day, especially when he drives by a church. Once, Giambrone brought a few of his athletes to Rome, where they met Pope Francis during a private service.

Three dozen people file inside for the ceremony. Giambroneā€™s hand shakes as he holds a piece of paper scribbled with blue ink and begins to read out loud. ā€œAi ragazzi che parteciperanno ai mondiali di atletica leggera a Budapestā€¦ā€ (To the boys who will participate in the World Athletics Championships in Budapest) I am very proud of you. I would like to offer a prayer in the hope that they can have a great race and be victorious.ā€ Tears stream down his cheeks as everyone claps.

RELATED: WTF Is the World Athletics Championships and Why Should I Care?ĢżĢż

The athletes he is referring toā€”Ugandan Oscar Chelimo, Burundians Egide Ntakarutimana, Francine Niyomukunzi, Onesphore Nzikwinkunda, Olivier Irabaruta, Amin Mohamed Jhinaoui of Tunisia, and Chiappinelliā€”are top professional distance runners who live full-time in the heart of Tuscany. For the past several months, theyā€™ve been preparing to compete in various events, ranging from the 3,000-meter steeplechase to the marathon, at the 19th edition of the World Athletics Championships, which are currently underway as of August 19 and conclude on Sunday, August 27.

The environment they live in is full of lush rolling hills and unpaved white roads made of crushed limestone (referred to as strade bianche) that weave around sunflower fields, Sangiovese vineyards, meadows, and medieval churches.

Two runners follow sunflower lined roads in Italy
(Photo: Francesca Grana)

Come run, and youā€™ll encounter a dozen routes exceeding the distance of a half marathon, a fluctuation of flat paths and steep inclines, sometimes smooth or else rocky. The terrain is ā€œgood for proprioception,ā€ Giambrone says. In other words, itā€™s a sensory experience that promotes body awareness. For speed work, athletes train on a dirt track nearby or on a synthetic version in Siena, a 20-minute drive away.

In the countryside, thereā€™s little else to do besides eat, sleep, and runā€”typical of elite training camps. But unlike other elite camps, which are often located at an altitude exceeding 5,000 feet and focus more so on perfecting biomechanics and improving individual race performance, Tuscany Camp is a marriage of expert coaching in an environment that promotes camaraderie as much as it does training and recovery.

Though the elevation in San Rocco hardly tips 800 feet, one reason Giambrone founded Tuscany Camp in this region is due to its environmental conditions. Summer temperatures are often upwards of 100 degrees Fahrenheit in San Rocco, cruel though advantageous on the body. Research suggests that heat training can offer benefits of running at high altitude.

An Incubator for Elite Performance

At any given time, Tuscany Camp hosts elite athletes from all over the world. In years past, that has included South African Olympic champion sprinter Caster Semenya, the Chinese Olympic Team, and high-level runners from Japan. Earlier this year, several runners from the ā€”comprising athletes that have fled conflict, violence, and injustice in their home countriesā€”used Tuscany Camp as a training base for two months in preparation for competitions.

(Photo: Francesca Grana/On)

Currently, there are 21 professional runners from Italy, Tunisia, Uganda, and Burundi that live on-site the majority of the year and are sponsored by On, an athletic shoe and performance sportswear company headquartered in Zurich. The On-sponsored elites live, train, and eat alongside other high-level runners that visit the camp.

The athletes live in a 18th-century restored classical Tuscan villa that was originally built for the Borghesi Bichi, a noble family with close ties to the Vatican. Later, it was home to Alessandro Sanminiatelli Zabarella before he was appointed as Cardinal in 1899 by Pope Leo XIII.

A Dream Realized

Laura Neri, a descendant of the Borghesi Bichi family, now owns the 20-bedroom property, which also includes two apartments. She had been following Tuscany Camp on social media when Giambrone reached out. For years, he bounced around the village training a few Ugandan athletes that lived in a small hotel room with twin-sized beds.

Giambrone paid out of pocket for eight years to keep the camp afloat. Meanwhile, he sought support from major athletic brands, but none were interested. Later, when he wanted to bring in more athletes to coach, his real estate search for a larger space led to dead-ends. Property owners didnā€™t want to rent a house for African athletes, Giambrone says, until Neriā€™s offer. She agreed to lease at a moderate monthly rate.

At the time, the property was mostly empty, and a couple of rooms were overgrown with plants and infested with mice. Giambrone hand renovated some areas during the pandemic. In January 2022, On became the main sponsor. ā€œNo big company believed in me until partnering with On,ā€ Giambrone says.

A man in a mint green jacket is the coach of this Tuscan Camp
Tuscany Camp Coach Giuseppe Giambrone (Photo: Francesca Grana/On)

A training camp had been Giambroneā€™s dream since he was a teen growing up in Sicily. Giambroneā€™s first brush with coaching began when he was asked at age 12 to help mentor a youth running team at his church. A mid-distance athlete during his childhood, Giambrone stopped competing due to health problems. Instead of leaving the sport completely, he studied it closely, eventually earning a technical coaching license, certified by the Italian Athletics Federation. Years later, in January 2014, he traveled to Uganda in search of developing talent, and, in collaboration with the Uganda Athletics Federation, he began his training camp in Tuscany and recruited promising runners.

Giambrone would go on to mentor 50 runners into elites (including eight Olympians) that have collectively amassed 22 international medals and set seven national records for their home countries. He also coached Olympic bronze medalist Jacob Kiplimo of Uganda to a world record (Kiplimo ran at the 2021 Lisbon Half Marathon). Kiplimoā€™s younger brother Oscar, a 5,000-meter bronze medalist at last yearā€™s world championships, is a resident at Tuscany Camp. He will again compete in 5,000 meters at the world championships, the first round of which is scheduled on August 24, day six of competition.

Without the financial means to build a new facility, renting the villa as the training base was a miracle, Giambrone says. The athletes certainly donā€™t complain about their ancient abode, the interior of which features marble accents, parquet wood floors and hand-painted ceilings.

The property is equipped to support a runnerā€™s every need: an indoor and outdoor pool; a cold-water immersion tub; a sauna, and a massage room with a Tecar therapy machine and cryoultrasound. There are also two gyms, one of which is housed in a former wine cellar..

Preparing for the World Stage

Ten days out from the start of the World Athletics Championships, the kitchen bustles at 7:15 AM with a half-dozen runners making shots of espresso. The nutty aroma of freshly ground coffee beans perfumes the room as demitasse cups fill under a Deā€™Longhi machine.

Chiappinelli drizzles olive oil on a small piece of bread layered with peanut butter. He adds a few drops of liquid vitamin D and eats it. Chiappinelli is being cautious of his nutrition as he heads into his second marathon on August 27, the final day of competition at the world championships.

A group of runners in a kitchen and smiling
(Photo: Francesca Grana)

The race will be his third appearance at the most prestigious athletics competition outside of the Olympic Games (he competed in 2017 and 2019 in the steeplechase on both occasions). Chiappinelli debuted in the marathon in February in Seville, clocking 2:09:46. He is aiming for a top-10 finish in Budapest.

Within the hour, Giambrone parks a nine-passenger Ford Transit into a wheat field. He steps onto a cornerless, flat road adjacent to wildflowers and blackberry bushes, and waits for five runners in the menā€™s distance group. The speed session calls for 15 x 1,000 meters. Any shade on the road is gone, and there is no breeze to puncture the humid, 80-degree air by the time the group arrives at 9:11 A.M.

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Chiappinelli finishes a three-mile warmup alongside Emanuel Ghergut, 27, a top-ranked middle-distance runner and regional champion in the 5,000-meter, from Florence, who has joined the camp for two weeks. He will attempt to keep up alongside Chiappinelli as well as three-time Olympian Olivier Irabaruta and Onesphore Nzikwinkunda. The latter two will represent Burundi in the marathon in Budapest.

When they arrive, Giambrone briefs the workout before the men line up single file on the side of the road. Giambrone clicks a stopwatch, and the athletes catapult into sprinting as he scrambles back into the van and punches the gas pedal with his foot. Their speed looks as though they are competing with each other, but really they are working together. Each runner will take turns at the front. Though these men represent three countries, all are here to help each other level up.

One hand on the steering wheel, the other gripping a stopwatch, Giambrone shouts, ā€œAle! Ale!ā€ Come on! Their pace is the equivalent of a sub-4:40 minute mile, and they will maintain it throughout the workout. Ghergut drops behind by a few seconds just three reps into the session. Sweat glitters on his forehead. His clothes cling to his body like a second skin. He will continue in the back for the remaining repsā€”and not on purpose. By rep seven, he can barely catch his breath as he chugs from a water bottle.

ā€œIā€™m only human,ā€ he says. The gap between Ghergut and the others will expand to nine seconds. Watching in person looks as though they are performing two different workouts.

ā€œThe boys are crazy horses,ā€ Ghergut says. Despite the challenge of keeping up with elites during each training session, he appreciates learning from their ways, especially how they take care of themselves. ā€œThey never underestimate recovery.ā€

Though Ghergut is a member of an amateur team, Toscana Atletica Jolly, he trains mostly alone in Florence because, as he explains, there arenā€™t many others of his caliber in the city. ā€œTeamwork always pays off,ā€ Ghergut says. ā€œIā€™ve come to the right place.ā€

(Photo: Francesca Grana)

Synergy is what Giambrone aims to cultivate as runners like Ghergut pass through the training camp. That, in fact, is a core philosophy at Tuscany Camp. Everyone is focused on winning, but the idea is to be united while working toward individual goals.

Ghergut finishes his workout after 10 reps. ā€œIā€™m definitely dead,ā€ he says, gasping for air as he waits for the others, who continue with five more reps. ā€œBut Iā€™m so happy.ā€

Chiappinelli is finally done with the morning workout after running 1,000 meters 15 times. The athletes bump fists as Giambrone shouts from afar, ā€œMilk! Drink the milk!ā€ Chiappinelli packed a recovery beverage: 12-ounces of skim milk with two teaspoons of white sugar and a pinch of salt. The elites usually drink the mixture from a sports bottle within three minutes of a tough workout like today, as part of their recovery routine.

He grabs the bottle as the guys pile into the van, their workout clothes dripping. The athletes will shower quickly and put on their swim trunks. A recovery bath is in order in Monticiano, 14 miles away.

At least twice a month, athletes at Tuscany Camp retreat to the Petriolo thermal baths and lay in mineral-rich pools. Part of the water is cold enough to raise goosebumps while another area makes your skin feel like itā€™s cooking in 109-degree soup. Itā€™s a natural version of contrast therapy, a technique used to improve blood circulation in the bodyā€”and theyā€™ll need this recovery ahead of a second training session in the afternoon.

Later, they will share conversation over plates of herb baked chicken and pesto fusilli. When their stomachs are full and they turn down for the evening, theyā€™ll sign off the night ā€œbuona notteā€ to each other before they wake up and do it all over again.

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