Indonesia Archives - ϳԹ Online /tag/indonesia/ Live Bravely Wed, 16 Aug 2023 18:19:43 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Indonesia Archives - ϳԹ Online /tag/indonesia/ 32 32 How Rescuers Found Four Australians and Two Indonesians Lost at Sea /outdoor-adventure/water-activities/how-rescuers-found-four-australians-and-two-indonesians-lost-at-sea/ Wed, 16 Aug 2023 17:59:51 +0000 /?p=2642718 How Rescuers Found Four Australians and Two Indonesians Lost at Sea

A 37-hour rescue mission ended on Tuesday after officials in Indonesia located six of the missing seven people. The search continues for an Indonesian sailor who disappeared.

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How Rescuers Found Four Australians and Two Indonesians Lost at Sea

It’s the stuff of nightmares: bobbing in the open ocean for days on end, hoping a passing ship comes to your rescue.

The bad dream scenario became reality for four Australian surfers and three Indonesian boat crew members earlier this week after a freak storm at sea approximately 90 miles off the west coast of Sumatra. Their disappearance on Sunday, August 13, kicked off a major search and rescue mission in Indonesia, as well as a . The story has a somewhat happen ending: six of the seven were rescued on Tuesday afternoon after spending 37 hours adrift. But officials are still searching for one of the Indonesian crew members named Fifan Satria.

What Happened

Sydney Morning Herald,a group of 12 Australian friends traveled to Sumatra to celebrate the 30th birthday of Elliot Foote, a carpenter who lives in the town of Mullumbimby, New South Wales. The from his father, Peter Foote.

The vacation got off to a great start—the group spent a few days hiking in Sumatra near the town of Bukit Lawang. Foote posted on Instagram about his adventures in the jungle: “Seeing Orangutans was an amazing experience and something that I look forward to doing again for a longer time and going deeper,” he wrote on August 12. After exploring Sumatra, the crew traveled to the island of Nias, a jumping-off point for the Banyak Islands. Both Nias and the Banyaks are famous for their surf breaks.

On Sunday, the bound for the tiny island of Pinang, where they were set to stay in a private surf resort. Eight of the friends boarded one boat alongside two Indonesian crew; Foote boarded the other, alongside his partner, Steph Weisse, 30, buddies Will Teagle and Jordan Short, and two Indonesian mechanics and the boat’s owner. They departed North Nias Port that afternoon.

But a storm blew in at approximately 5:15 P.M, and officials said that waves off the coast of Nias reached 13 feet and that heavy rains and wind hit the area. Indonesian officials sought shelter midway through the crossing at a small island called Saran Alu, while the other boat carrying Foote continued. Crew aboard the ten-person boat last glimpsed the other vessel at 6:20 P.M. that evening. The ten-person boat waited more than two hours for the storm to die down before continue toward Pinang Island, eventually reaching the resort at nearly 10 P.M. When they arrived, they learned that the other boat had never completed the trip.

The Search

Rescue operations began immediately—the driver of the boat that completed the journey ventured back out into the waves and searched until midnight, while staff at the resort called Indonesia’s search and rescue, Basarnas, to report the missing vessel. According to the detailing the mission, Basarnas officials arrived the next morning, launchingships at 11 A.M. An official told The Herald that rescuers focused on an area of ocean within 50 miles east of Pinang Island. Officials said those aboard the missing boat had life jackets but did not have navigation devices, flares, or a radio.

The mission relied on aircraft, multiple boats, and drones, and it grew throughout the day after one of the families of the missing chartered their own plane to fly overhead. But searchers were unable to find the boat or the missing people, and officials suspended operationsovernight, saying it would begin on Tuesday at first light.

Monday night, an Australian captain named Grant Richardson joined the search with his private catamaran, the Sea Mi Amor. Aboard the Sea Mi Amor were three of Foote’s friends who had made it to Pinang island safely.

“Captain Richard is an experienced sailor of the region whom has a vast knowledge of the tidal and current movements within the island region as he frequently uses the tides, currents and winds to sail around region,” read a note on the Australian missing person’s report after he departed.

Richardson and his crew searched all night without success, but then, at 8:30 A.M., he radioed rescuers with an urgent message. “Will Teagle, Jordan Short, Steph Weisse found alive floating on surfboards!” Less than two hours later, crews heard from Elliott, who had been picked up by a fishing boat and driven to a surfing camp on another island.

The Wreck

The story of what happened to the boat is still taking shape, but Elliott and others aboard the boat gave brief comments to the media after they were saved. The captain of the boat, Yunardi Ardi, that the boat had been speeding toward Pinang when massive waves struck it from behind, causing it to capsize. The Australians threw their surfboards into the water and jumped onto the boards for survival as the boat quickly sank.

Sunlight was fading, and the seven were left bobbing in the ocean. Ardi told media that they decided to attempt to swim to a nearby island. “The waves were high and we all discussed quickly and decided to swim to the nearest island using the last rays of sunset as our guide,” he said. “I paddled in the direction of Nias and I could see the lighthouse of Sarang Baung Island.”

Foote recounted the frantic final moments inside the boat in a . After the battered boat began to take on water, he said that the crew began to frantically grab gear from the stricken vessel that could help them survive in the water. “When the first wave came in, Jordan was like ‘guys, this could be serious, what do we need?’” Foote said. “Me, Will, and Jordan are all gear guys, were like knife, head torch, get water together. Then another wave came and I was like ‘everybody get out now.’”

Foote’s father, Peter Foote, also spoke to local and national media during the rescue operation, and helped shed light on what happened to the four while they were lost. As the seven people bobbed in the waves, Elliot Foote decided to leave the group and paddle to an island he saw on the horizon. According to his father, Elliot paddled for more than a day. Ardi said that as the Australians paddled, the Indonesians floated, and after several hours Satria began to lose strength. “My missing friend looked weak as he was carried by a wave to the east toward Singkil,” Ardi said.

After 37in the water, the group was found by the Sea Mi Amor. A fishing vessel picked up Foote several hours later approximately 20 nautical miles away, near Palambak Island, and took him to a surf camp in the Bay of Plenty.

But after more than three days of searching, crews have yet to locate Satria, and . On Wednesday, the four Australian survivors released a short video thanking the rescuers who spent days searching for them. They also offered condolences to the missing man’s family. “Now, our thoughts are with the Indonesian families and friends of the missing man still out there,” Elliot Foote said. “We hope the best for him.”

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11 Yoga Festivals You Need to Know About /adventure-travel/news-analysis/best-yoga-festivals-2023/ Thu, 01 Jun 2023 16:13:47 +0000 /?p=2634104 11 Yoga Festivals You Need to Know About

There’s learning, connecting with self and others, and did we mention dance parties?

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11 Yoga Festivals You Need to Know About

If you’ve been to a yoga festival, you know the hum that takes place. Everywhere you look, there’s activity. Attendees are unrolling their mats on the grass, lecturers are offering insights, vendors are sharing artisanal wares, and food trucks are dishing out their creations. As the sun goes down, the live music becomes louder and the learning shifts to dancing. It’s an unparalleled experience.

In recent years, yoga festivals have evolved to appeal to those of all experience levels and interests. Some focus on traditional practices while others are more new age-y and “glittery.” Whether you’re just starting yoga or are years into your practice, there is a festival that will vibe with you.

Although each yoga festival has its own distinct personality, they all share the common threads of connection, presence, and celebration. The following list explores 11 annual yoga festivals along with some of the history and highlights of each.

11 Yoga Festivals You Need to Know About

 

An Instagram post from the Bend Yoga Festival 2023

1. Bend Yoga Festival

Bend, Oregon | June 8-11, 2023

Explore the majesty of the Cascade Mountains at . Situated in the beautiful mountain town of Bend, Oregon, this festival features a focused mix of world-class presenters, wellness sessions, and outdoor adventures.

This year, the Bend Yoga Festival moves to Riverbend Park, offering direct access to the flowing Deschutes River, stunning mountain views, and more than 15,000 square feet of lawn. During the festival, attendees can explore nearby natural attractions, such as the lava caves and . Join a guided hike to the top of Smith Rock, followed by a yoga practice and local brew tasting, or take to the river in an open paddle class.

Throughout the weekend, you can join international and locally loved presenters including and for afternoon yoga sessions at participating local yoga studios, all within walking distance of the main venue. You can also schedule your own yoga photo shoot with acclaimed photographer . Lodging isn’t included, so you’ll want to find a stay at a local Airbnb, campsite, or hotel.

2. Telluride Yoga Fest

Telluride, Colorado | June 22-25, 2023

For a fully immersive yoga experience, the is not to be missed. The four-day event offers more than 100 classes, including yoga, meditation, music, hiking, wellness talks, and social gatherings. The event takes place amid the intimate setting of a small village nestled at the base of the Telluride Mountains, surrounded by rugged peaks, mountain air, and crisp blue skies.

Start your day with a mountain-top meditation, hike the fan-favorite Jud Wiebe memorial trail, practice standup paddleboard (SUP) yoga on Elk Lake, or simply sleep-in. With its new campus in Mountain Village, connected to the historic Town of Telluride via a free gondola, the festival provides a unique gathering that’s entirely removed from the hubbub of everyday life. The festival has hosted some of the most well-seasoned yoga teachers, including , , , , and .

Telluride offers a selection of hotels, condos, and private residences that cater to every budget.

 

3. LoveShinePlay

Asheville, North Carolina | July 20-23, 2023

The , formerly known as the Asheville Yoga Festival, is a four-day event held in downtown Asheville, North Carolina. The festival offers an expansive schedule that includes more than 70 styles of offerings, including Bhakti and anatomy, Kundalini and Yin, and everything in between.

Asheville is considered the wellness capital of the South, and the festival takes advantage of its surroundings, allowing attendees to expand their knowledge and practice in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Throughout the weekend, attendees can experience lectures on practical astrology, Ayurvedic yoga classes, “yin yoga and story time,” plus classes and concerts from and .

Classes are dispersed around Asheville in hotels, community centers, and outdoor stages, all walkable from the marketplace. The central hub for the festival, the marketplace features 60-plus hand-selected vendors offering high-quality wellness products. You’ll also find food trucks, free community events, and outdoor spaces to rest.

LoveShinePlay started in 2016 as the Asheville Yoga Festival and has since grown to include partnerships with Lululemon and Yoloha. In 2024, the festival will expand and offer a similar incarnation in Charleston.

 

4. OM Festival

Manchester, Vermont | July 26-30, 2023

Dance, flow, and play your way to wellness at the annual , a summerfest held on 150-plus mountainside acres overlooking the Battenkill River. Also known as the Vermont Yoga Festival, it offers five days of yoga, meditation, dance, and flow arts classes where festival-goers can flow, play, and groove.

The OM Festival combines natural beauty and historic charm. Classes take place in a 200-year-old barn on the expansive private grounds and in the perfectly coiffed meditation garden. At night, the festival comes alive with music and embodiment celebrations, including kirtan, bhakti yoga, and ecstatic dance DJs.

Most guests stay on-site, either at , the hub of the festival, or camp in a private field or alongside the river (river camp sites are limited and sell out quickly). Those staying at the inn can expect romantic, antique-y rooms, mountain views, and farm-fresh dining.

 

5. Soul Circus

Elmore, UK | August 17-20, 2023

somehow manages to be both healthy and hedonistic. And somehow it works. Spearheaded by the charismatic founders, Roman and Ella Wroath, Soul Circus is a holistic yoga, arts, and music festival set in the rural countryside of Cotswold, United Kingdom. The combination of yoga asana, wellness workshops, and live music is undeniably more glittery wellness rave than traditional yoga festival. With its world-renowned DJs and afterparties that last until 2 am, Soul Circus wants to help you tune in and let loose.

By day, stretch out in yoga tents dotted along the countryside or join sought-after yoga instructors and wellness practitioners in any of the 300-plus wellness sessions, including cacao ceremonies, astral projection, lucid dreaming, and ecstatic dance. It’s a chance to indulge your woo-woo side.

As the light fades, the festival takes on an entirely different vibe. DJs set the skies alight with exhilarating music and dance. Those who need a reset after a marathon dance session can settle into a wood-fired hot tub or sauna at the on-site Soul Spa, which also offers daytime holistic therapy sessions.

Soul Circus is an undoubtedly energetic and unique yoga experience.

6. Dirty South Yoga Festival

Atlanta, Georgia | August 25-27, 2023

The , held at the end of August, is a homegrown celebration that’s all about promoting community and mindfulness in a way that embraces the “rough around the edges” energy of the South.

Founded in 2013 by a group of Atlanta-based yoga teachers, Dirty South Yoga arose from a need for authentic connection in the wellness community. The group cites the Zen Buddhist Monk Thich Nhat Hanh and his famous saying “No mud, no lotus” as a foundational inspiration and will be the first to admit they’re not prim and proper. They regularly practice falling and try to show up to themselves, their practice, and each other as best they can.

The festival takes place at The Loudermilk Conference Center in downtown Atlanta, where participants can revel in an entire weekend of workshops, classes, and activities. Founder has said she knows what it’s like to long for connection in the yoga world, and with Dirty South Yoga, she hopes to provide a place of support, guidance, and friendship. It’s yoga, real and raw.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoYRp9NPMgR/

7. Mammoth Yoga Festival

Mammoth Lakes, California | September 14-17, 2023

is a getaway for those seeking adventure, growth, and connection in California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains. Every September, it offers “yoga and meditation for every body, every age, and every ability,” making it accessible to all who wish to make the pilgrimage.

Whether you’re a curious beginner or a yoga teacher seeking to expand your understanding of how to share the practice, Mammoth Festival shares an array of classes to help you develop your practice. Anyone can attend early morning sessions on creative yoga sequencing, the power of cueing, and decolonizing yoga. And every night, the Vendor Village Market lights up with performances from mystically-minded musicians, which included , , and in recent years.

Weekend asana and meditation classes from teachers such as and will help you settle a restless spirit and immerse yourself in the present. Also, presentations from yoga and health institutions such as Mammoth Hospital and the work trade and job opportunity website, , allow instructors to diversify their teaching tools beyond advanced asana. The festival is recognized as an approved Continuing Education Provider by the National Academy of Sports Medicine, making it an excellent opportunity for yoga and fitness professionals to gain needed continuing education credits.

8. Lamu Yoga Festival

Lamu Island, Kenya | October 25-29, 2023

From sunrise yoga sessions on pristine beaches to moonlit meditations beneath the stars, emphasizes total, undisturbed bliss. This celebration of yoga, culture, and tranquility happens in the coastal region of Kenya and immerses in a world of serenity, culture, and mindful exploration.

Yoga, breathwork, and meditation are taught at a dozen unique venues and studios. Discover the allure of Lamu Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its charming architecture and captivating history. With no cars in sight and donkeys and boats instead dotting the landscape, the scene creates a true escape from the everyday. Experience the local culture and traditions through an awe-inspiring opening ceremony on the beach, a traditional Kenyan dinner, a scenic sailing trip, and a mesmerizing bonfire to close your journey.

 

9. International Yoga Festival

Banks of Ganges River, India | March 2024

A week-long celebration of yoga and meditation, the in Rishikesh, India, attracts thousands of people from around the world to the birthplace of yoga. Nestled among the Himalayas on the banks of the holy River Ganga, the festival takes place at Parmarth Niketan Ashram, one of the largest interfaith yoga institutions in India. It’s a tranquil environment where participants can connect with themselves and their spiritual practice.

The aim of the International Yoga Festival is to “expand global consciousness and bring healing back to the planet, one person at a time.” In support of that, it hosts some of the greatest teachers from both eastern and western lineages of yoga, making it an ideal pilgrimage for dedicated students looking to connect with the origins of the practice.

The extensive schedule includes a mind-boggling array of activities, from early morning kundalini sadhana to evening kirtan and everything in between, including asana classes and talks. It regularly draws more than 2000 participants from 80 countries, offering a unique opportunity to come together and share in the transformative power of yoga. The festival’s emphasis on the origins of the practice is a testament to yoga’s enduring spirit, influence, and ability to unite people in the pursuit of growth and well-being.

10. Sedona Yoga Festival

Sedona, Arizona | April 2024

Many believe that certain locations on the planet experience a higher vibrational energy than others. With its seven vortices, or energy centers, Sedona is one of those places. The , now in its tenth year, draws on this enigmatic energy to foster community and spiritual growth.

Billed as a “consciousness evolution conference,” the festival boasts an impressive roster of speakers and rich coursework and continues to be a pioneer of large-scale mindful events in the United States. Workshops and immersions take place amid Sedona’s mystical landscape and world-class performing arts facilities and offer opportunities to explore all eight limbs of yoga.

Attendees can gather in the mornings for a communal ceremony before dispersing into lectures or desert excursions. There are more than 100 sessions to choose from, including yoga practices amid the red rocks. Evenings feature keynote addresses from top-tier spiritual minds, lectures, sacred chanting sessions, and live entertainment.

11. BaliSpirit

Ubud, Bali | May 2024

If practicing yoga in Bali is your dream, the in Ubud may be the ultimate destination. Held annually at the , this three-day “spirit festival” encompasses yoga, dance, martial arts, breathwork, personal development, and more, making it a catalyst for transformation.

A magnet for conscious travelers and spiritual seekers, BaliSpirit has grown considerably since it was founded in 2008, bringing economic growth and evolution to the town of Ubud. Held in a traditional Balinese open-air venue surrounded by wildlife and flanked by a sacred river, the fest offers a unique opportunity for attendees to connect with themselves, others, and the surroundings.

The holistic approach of the festival is reflected in its more than 150 workshops representing different styles of yoga (including Hatha, Yin, Anusara, and Ashtanga) as well as other types of movement (Capoeira, Qi Gong, Silat, Poi, Laughter, and hula hooping). Each night ends with a musical lineup of global performers, creating an intimate concert experience leading to deeper connections and sacred celebration.

About Our Contributor

Sierra is a writer, yogi, and music lover living in the Pacific Northwest. She’s been practicing yoga for nearly a decade & got certified to teach in 2018. She writes and teaches all about connection: connection to the body, to nature, and to the universal love that holds us together. She’s also the author of , a moon magic journal and witchy workbook.

For free yoga and witchy wisdom, find Sierra at , on Instagram , and on .

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What It Feels Like to Surf the Same Wave for Five Minutes /outdoor-adventure/water-activities/dylan-graves-indonesia-surfing/ Wed, 17 May 2023 16:07:01 +0000 /?p=2629243 What It Feels Like to Surf the Same Wave for Five Minutes

Surfer Dylan Graves recently notched a record-breaking ride on a tidal bore in Indonesia. Graves says the cosmic wave changed his life.

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What It Feels Like to Surf the Same Wave for Five Minutes

My love of surf films goes far beyond the heart-pumping footage of surfers getting barreled and shredding monster waves. I always appreciate hearing them describe what it was like to actually ride the swell. Oftentimes, their soliloquies touch on topics that I care deeply about: spirituality, the connection between brain and body, the emotional release that comes from physical effort, and, ya know, . The very best athletes—think , , Kelly Slater—can talk for minutes on end about a ride that lasted maaaybe 20 seconds.

That’s why I was determined to interview Puerto Rican surfer after watching the of him surfing a wave for five straight minutes—that’s 300 seconds—along a river in Indonesia. The wave, called “The Bono,” is actually a tidal bore that f. The water is pulled along by the gravitational pull of the moon, and the wave it creates just goes on and on and on.

So, how did Graves describe a wave ride that lasted that long?

“It was an insane experience—people talk about the ‘flow state’ during a ride and I had that, only it just went on forever,” Graves told me. “With tidal bores the whole reason you’re able to surf is your spot on the planet at that very moment. So really, you’re in synch with the moon. You have this cosmic connection that makes the ride feel more grand. I felt like I had this antenna up that was picking up on the frequency of the wave. And I was doing what anyone would do with a wave like that—ride the shit out of it.”

Graves rides the tidal bore in Indonesia. (Photo: Dylan Graves/YouTube)

During the clip you can see him make 46 different turns on the wave, which could be a new Guinness Record.

Graves, 37, told me he had no intentions of pursuing a record ride at The Bono. Instead, he was indulging in his relatively newfound interest in the tidal bore phenomenon—waves that are created when the rising tide pushes up against a river current. Traditional ocean waves break on a reef or a sandbar, and even the longest ones barely last longer than a minute. Peru’s “,” believed to be the longest breaking ocean wave, covers a distance of 2.5 miles, and a lucky surfer might be up for four minutes.

Tidal bores . But unlike ocean waves, they happen just twice a day, and often just one of those swells is ridable. The season for riding these waves is often short, and determined by the combination of the lunar cycle, height of the water, and shape of the river bottom.

Graves says the surf world has identified approximately 60 bores on the planet. He first got a taste for the experience in 2018 on the Severn River in Southwestern England, where the in the funnel-shaped Bristol Channel.

“It was such a different experience from riding a normal ocean wave that I fell in love with tidal bores,” Graves says. “I found out about the subculture of surfers who only ride tidal bores, and they just look at wave riding differently, and as a surfer the whole thing lit me up.”

He was hooked, and he marveled at the small community of surfers who coalesced around these unusual waves. Surfers on tidal bores and rivers often see how long they can stand on the wave—rides last minutes and sometimes even over an hour.

Graves expanded his focus from ocean waves to tidal bores and even river waves. He traveled to Wyoming and surfed the . He rode the famed French bore near Bordeaux on the River Garonne called “”. During the COVID-19 pandemic, he got the idea to surf The Bono. What enticed him about the wave was how the river bottom and tide created seven distinct peaks, which locals call “Seven Ghosts.”

“The tides go over sand bars and make all of these unique shapes, and the wave speeds up and then slows down and makes all of these secondary waves behind it,” he said. “The sand is always shifting and the river has gotten wider over the years, so when you surf it, it’s really the only way that wave will ever be.”

It’s also incredibly remote, and requires a three-hour boat ride from the nearest town. Graves planned his trip for six months and worked with a local surfing guide who takes clients to the bore. The Bono is only rideable from November though March, because that’s when the biggest tide of the day hits when the sun is out.

The elusive nature of these bores is why Graves believes they will continue to attract a niche community of surfers. But for those who are willing to travel to them and wait for that special moment, the payoff is huge. Graves says he had “that glow” after his five-minute ride.

“It felt similar to getting a really special wave anywhere,” he says. “It feels like you were chosen by such a powerful force that is so raw that you can’t help but feel this crazy lift. It’s like the fountain of youth or something. I think that glow will last the rest of my life.”

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9 International Dishes to Cook If You Miss Traveling /adventure-travel/advice/international-cuisine-recipes/ Thu, 04 Jun 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/international-cuisine-recipes/ 9 International Dishes to Cook If You Miss Traveling

Don't let sheltering in place stop you from cooking and eating like a world traveler.

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9 International Dishes to Cook If You Miss Traveling

As a travel editor with perennially itchy feet, staying within a three-mile radius of my house has been tough. Since canceling planned trips to Italy, Alaska, and Hawaii, with no indication of when I’ll be able toreschedule them, I’ve tried to find different ways of tricking my brain into thinking I’m traveling again: watching YouTube videos of the grizzlies I was hoping to see at Katmai National Park this summer, changing my Zoom background to a shot of me on a sailboat in the South Pacific, and tuning into40-plus hours of thru-hiking vlogs. But despite working at ϳԹ and not Bon Appétit, I’ve realized that while I miss the adventures, I miss the food just as much.

So my latest lockdown hobby has been recreating some of my favorite meals I’ve enjoyedwhile traveling. Here are nine recipes that have managed to satisfy those cravings. And I’ve included some ingredient suggestionsthat substitutein common pantry staples, to spare you multiple, risky trips to the grocery store. Give these dishesa try, close your eyes, and you might just believe you’re at a beach in Mexico or a food stall in Asia. At the very least, you’ll nolonger be hungry.

Indonesia: Peanut Sauce

This adaptation of a classic Asian peanut sauce, or satay sauce, comes from the mother of fellow editor (and my roommate) Maren Larsen. The first time Annie made it for me, I almost cried and said, “I want to eat this every day, every meal, for the rest of my life.” It was the closest thing I’ve had to the copious amounts I consumed during my year in Indonesia. I now always have at least one jar in the fridge and one in the freezer, and I throw it on everything from stir-fry to chicken and rice. You caneven dipraw carrots into it like hummus.

Ingredients:

½ cup peanut butter (thenatural, no-sugar-added chunky kind is better, but in a pinch, Skippy will work)
2 tablespoons sriracha or other hot sauce
4 tablespoonssoy sauce
4 tablespoonsrice vinegar
4 garlic cloves, chopped
½ cup fresh basil
1 tablespoonbrown sugar
1 teaspoontoasted sesame oil
1 can coconut milk
¼ teaspooncrushed red pepper flakes
1 small scallion (optional)

Instructions:

Throw everything in a pot, and simmer until fragrant and combined. Put it on whatever you want, and hold back tears of joy.


Mexico: Slow-Cooker Carnitas

Since my favorite local taco stand has shut down, my mouth has been watering for carnitas, the Mexican version of pulled pork. The traditional process involves a deep copper pot and lots of lard, but because I am in possession of neither, I’ve tried to replicate the flavors and texture with my Crock-Pot and oven. I modified recipe, using pork instead of chicken (thoughwith the shortages, Iimagine chicken thighs would be easier to find) and skipping the chipotle sauce—I found that by using the slow cooker, the meat exuded enough delicious juice to useinstead.

Ingredients:

1 tablepoonground cumin
½ teaspoonchili powder
½ teaspoonMexican oregano (regular oregano will also work)
2 tablespoons, chopped
Zest and juice of one medium orange (about ¼ cup)
2 freshly squeezed limes (about ¼cup)
2 poundspork butt, shoulder, or loin
5 garlic cloves, pressed or chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
¼cup chicken stock
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper

Instructions:

Combine seasonings, chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, orange juice, and lime juice in a bowl, and whisk together until combined. Put your pork cut in a Crock-Pot, and pour the seaoning mixture over it, flipping the meatto make sure it’s coated on all sides. Add the garlic, onion, chicken stock, cilantro, and bay leaf. Cook on low for six to eight hours (the longer, the better)until the pork pulls apart easily.

Once the meat is done, shred it and spread it on a baking dish, add salt and pepper, drizzle two tablespoons of cooking liquid on top, and toss to coat.Put the tray on the middle rack in the oven under the broil setting for about 15 minutes, and cook it until the pork is crisped but not dry.Pull it out at the halfway mark to drizzle another two more tablespoons of cooking liquid over it.

Serve in warmed corn tortillas topped with more fresh lime juice, cilantro, and pickled onions; over rice and beans; in a burrito;or devour it straight from the pan.


New Zealand: Pavlova

Pavlova Slice With Summer Berries Horizontal
(Kirsty Begg/Stocksy)

Aussies will claim this dessert as their own invention, but any self-respecting Kiwi will tell you who it really belongs to. This recipe comes from a Kiwi grandmother I stayed with near Wellington (thanks, Nana Jackie!), and it’s still a mystery to me how something with so few ingredients can taste so damn delicious. It’s especially idealfor the current food-shortage situation, as it requires no flour or yeast, just lots of sugar, eggs, and a decent mixer.

Ingredients:

For the Meringue:
4 large egg whites
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon cornstarch
½teaspoon cream of tartar

For the Topping:
1 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoonsconfectioner’s sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Fresh fruit of your choice

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

With a standing mixer (or a handheld mixer if you want an arm workout), beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, about fiveto tenminutes at high speed. Add half the sugar, beat for another 30 seconds, then add the remaininghalf. Continue beating until stiff peaks form like little snowy mountains (you should be able to hold the whisk upright). When in doubt, beat some more. Add the vanilla extract, and beat for another minute. Fold in the cornstarch and cream of tartar using a spatula.

Spread the mixture in a roughlyeight- or nine-inch circle on the baking sheet, making sure the outer edge isrelatively tall.Pop in the oven, and immediately reduce the heat to 200 degrees. Bake for about 90 minutes, until it appears firm and dry. Try to not open the oven at all during the baking process.

While the meringueis baking, pour the heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla into amixing bowl and beat on medium-high speed until medium peaks formor the cream has a nice, thick texture. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Turn off the oven, and let the meringuecompletely cool inside it (this could take several hours). It’s important that you don’t skip thislast step: if you do, the nice golden crust formed by the caramelized sugar will crack—not that I know from experience or anything.

Top with cream and fruit.


Asia: Wahyu’s Special Ramen

My friend Wahyu, a ranger who I worked with doing forest conservation in Borneo, Indonesia, showed me how to take an ordinary pack of instant ramen and turn it intosomething I’dconstantly crave long after returning to the U.S. I’ve since added some otheringredients and adopted a new egg-cooking technique from another friend. But just a few basic foods, including tomatoes, onion, and garlic, make a world of difference.

Ingredients:

1 cup water
1 onion, diced
1 fresh tomato, diced
4 garlic cloves, diced
1 package instant ramen noodles and its flavor packet (or, if you’re a purist, use fresh ramen noodles and chicken broth, altering the cooking instructions accordingly)
1 tablespoonoil (preferably sesame)
1 tablespoonfish sauce (substitute soy sauce if you can’t find it)
Additional vegetables (bok choy and mushrooms work particularly well)
2 eggs
1 teaspoondiced fresh ginger or powdered ginger
Sriracha or other chili sauceto taste

Instructions:

Boil water in a kettle or pot. In a separate pot, sauté the onion, tomato, garlic, and ramen flavor packet together in sesame oiluntil the tomatoes are soft and have broken down completelyand the onions are translucent.Add the boiling water to the pot with the sautéed veggies, along with the fish sauce and any additional vegetables. Cook until the vegetables are just soft, then add the noodles. Let them soften fortwo minutes.

Crack one egg into the mixture, whipping it until the egg has almost dissolved into the broth. Separate the yolk and white of the second egg, settingthe yolk aside to use shortly. Add the egg white, whipping ituntil the broth becomes creamy.

Turn off the heat, but leave the pot on the hot burner. Add the egg yolk into the still boiling liquid, cover, and wait about 30 seconds, until the yolk is set but still runny. Pour out the contents of the pot into a bowl, carefully scooping out the intact yolk last.


Turkey: Chicken Hot Pot

Senior travel editor Erin Riley kindly brought me a tray of this when I was having a rough week recently, and I haven’t been able to stop thinking about—or making it—since. The original calls for rooster, but becauseI’m not yet living my best life as a full-blown homesteader, I’ve been using chicken. While the more authentic version calls for Turkish , which uses sun-dried peppers, thisrecipe works just as well with the regular paste found at most grocery stores.

Ingredients:

1 poundchicken breast, cubed
1 poundpotatoes, cubed
4 to 5 medium tomatoes, chopped
3 garlic cloves
2 teaspoonsred bell pepper paste
1 teaspoonred-pepper flakes
1 tablespoondried oregano
¾ cup olive oil
Salt and pepperto taste

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Mix all of the ingredients in a large bowl until fully combined and your chicken pieces are thoroughly coated. Transfer the mixture to a casserole dish or Dutch oven, and bake for an hour and tenminutes.

This goes especially well over rice and with some homemade cacik, or Turkish .


North Africa/Middle East: Shakshuka

Shakshuka
(Todd Beltz/Stocksy)

ϳԹdirector of event marketing Nicole Barker (my other roommate—Santa Fe is a small town) spent a few months in the Middle East eating this deliciously eggy concoction, and it’s been in her breakfast rotation ever since. But in our house, we have it for dinner, because it’s quarantine and the rules no longer matter.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
⅛ teaspoon ground cayenne (or to taste)
1 28-ouncecan whole plum tomatoes with their juices, coarsely chopped
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
¼ teaspoon black pepper, plus more as needed
5 ouncesfeta, crumbled (about 1¼cups)
6 large eggs
Chopped cilantro, for serving
Hot sauce, for serving

Instructions:

Heat an oven to 375 degrees. Warmoil in a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over a medium-low flame. Add the onion and bell pepper. Cook until very soft,about 20 minutes.Add garlic and cook until tender, one to two minutes, thenstir in the cumin, paprika, and cayenne, and cook for another minute.Pour in the tomatoes, and season with the salt andpepper; simmer until tomatoes have thickened, about tenminutes. Taste, and add more salt and pepper if needed. Stir in the crumbled feta.

Crack your eggs into the skillet over the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the skillet to the oven, and bake until the eggs are just set, seven to tenminutes. Sprinkle with cilantro and hot sauce, and serve.

This can be made without the feta, but I wouldn’t skip it—the cheeseturns into nuggets of ooey goodness in the oven. While the dish can be eaten on its own, it goes especially well over some sort of flatbread or regular toast.


Italy: Pizza

Yes, you could just buy frozen pizza. But since visiting Sicily last September, my now spoiled taste buds refuse to accept it as even a less than worthy substitute. Why go with DiGiorno when you can make a big batch of dough and sauce ahead of time, stick the dough in the freezer, and essentially have pizza on demand for the duration of quarantine? This recipe came from my mom, who got it from the Italian owner of her local pizza place in New York. Itwas also approved by my Sicilian grandmother, who has gotten us kicked out of multiple restaurants for arguing with the chef. Inside tip: Having trouble finding yeast or flour? Check with your local pizza place. To make extra cash, many of them are selling their stock.

Ingredients:

For the Dough (makes two to three largethin-crust pies):
1 package dryinstant yeast (or 1.5 ounces fresh yeast)
1½ cups warm—not boiling—water (about 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit—just turn your sink faucet up to full heat)
3 teaspoons sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon onion powder
4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for coating
4 cups flour

For the Sauce:
½ yellow onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed or finely chopped
1 16-ouncecan tomato puree
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoonoregano

Toppings:
Mozzarella or Parmesan cheese

Instructions:

Combine the yeast and warm water in a large bowl with a pinch of sugar to activate. Stir together until yeast is dissolved. Add the rest of the sugar, salt, garlic and onion powders, and olive oil. Stir some more.Add the first two cups of flour, mix with a spoon, then toss in the third cup and mix with the spoon.

Add the last cup of flour. But this time, knead the dough with your hands until it’s adequately infused with all of your pent-up stress and no longer sticky.Pour a good amount of olive oil (don’t skimp) all over the sides of the bowl, and coat the ball of dough thoroughly. Cover the bowl with three or four dish towels, and let it rise for about 30 minutes.

In the meantime, make the sauce. Sautéthe onion until translucent, add the garlic, and cook one to two minutes more. Then add the tomato puree, salt, pepper, and oregano. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes, then remove from the heat, and let it sit for the flavors to meld.

After the dough has risen, punch it down, and plop it on a well-floured work surface. Form the dough into a log, and slice it inhalf or into thirds, depending on how big you want your pies.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees, letting your pan or pizza stone heat up within it.Take one piece of dough, and flatten it out on your work surface. Working from the middle outward, use your fingers to stretch itwhile flipping it over from time to time towork the opposite side. For a thin crust, stretch the doughuntil it’s just about translucent; it will seem almost too thin. If you get holes, simply pinch the edges of the hole together and fold some more dough over it.

Transfer the dough to your preheated pan or pizza stone. Ladle the sauce over the top from the middle outward in that fancy way you see pizza chefs do it on TV. Add cheese (fresh mozzarella and a bit of Parmesan are my favorite) and any toppings you’d like—as long as it’s not pineapple, lest you risk being haunted by the ghosts of 10,000 Italian nonnas.Bake on the bottom rack of the oven until the crust is golden brown and the bottom is crisp, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Any extra dough can be saved in the fridge for up to a weekor in the freezer just about indefinitely. If you do make a pie out of the premade dough, first bring it toroom temperature before you start stretching.


India: Masala Chai

Masala Tea
(ZHPH Production/Stocksy)

There are few things I miss about the year I spent living in Boulder, Colorado. But the one thing I’m really hankering for is the chai at , which was within walking distance of my apartment. My cravings for its spicy, flavor-packed conconction have only gotten stronger since lockdown; in my most desperate moments, I have dreamed of making the six-hour, totally irresponsible drive there just for a cup. Then, while scrolling through social media one night to quell my existential dread,I saw someone preparehomemade chai, and my world changed.

Ingredients:

1 fresh gingerroot, peeled
1 teaspooncinnamon
1 teaspooncardamom
1 teaspoonblack peppercorns
1 teaspoonnutmeg
½ cup water
½ cup half-and-half, milk, or whatever your preferred dairy substitute is—just make sure it’s creamy
1 tablespoonloose-leaf black tea
Sugar to taste

Instructions:

Crush up your ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, and peppercorns with a mortar and pestle. If you don’t have one, you can use the back of a wooden spoon and a small bowl.

Bring the water to boil in a pot, andadd the groundspices (or stick them whole into a strainer and seep it in the water). Simmer for about 15 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat, and add in the black-tea leaves. Let it seep for five to tenminutes, depending on the desired strength.

Put the pot back on the stove over low-medium heat, and add your milk, cream, or bougie substitute and sugar. Stir occasionally, making sure the mixture doesn’t boil.Once thetop of this becomes frothy, remove the pot from the heat, and let it sit for another minute or two before pouring through a strainer into a mug. If you’re less of a klutz than I am, pour the mixture from a height above the mug to help aerate it. Enter chai heaven.


Carribean: Cuban-ish Rice and Beans

If you’re like me and always have a ten-pound bag of rice and approximately 18 cans of beans in your pantry, you know, just in case a global pandemic hits, you should be well equipped for this dish. I ate some version of it virtually every day as a broke college student in Florida—and regularly nowas an only slightly less broke editor during quarantine—and it’s a wonder what some simple additions can do to break up the starchy monotony. Breakfast? Put an egg on top. Extra hungry? Throw in some slow-cooked carnitas (see above). I cook everything together in the same pot, because the rice absorbs the bean and tomato-juice flavors and… who am I kidding? It’s so that I have fewerdishes to do.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoonsoil
1 onion, chopped
1 teaspoonchili powder
1 teaspoonsmoked paprika
½ teaspooncayenne pepper
1 jalapeño or other hot pepper, chopped (optional)
1 red or yellow bell pepper, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped or crushed
½ cup chicken stock (or water)
1 cup white rice, rinsed in a colander until the water runs clear
1 16-ouncecan black beans, or soaked and cooked dried beans
1 can diced tomatoes

Instructions:

Heat oil in a pan over medium-low heat. Sauté the onion until translucent, then add the chili powder, paprika, cayenne pepper, jalapeño andbell peppers, and garlic, and cook two to three minutes more. Add the chicken stock and rice, and turn the stove’s flame up to medium heat.Add the beans and tomatoes, without draining. Stir, bring the whole mixture to a soft boil, then turn down the heat to a simmer andcover. Cook until the rice is tender and most of the liquid has beenabsorbed—what you wantleft is a nice, thick sauce.

Serve with some freshly chopped tomatoes, hot sauce, avocado, egg, cilantro, cheese, sour cream—whatever you want. You’ll never regret making a double batch and having it in your freezer for days when you’re between grocery runs.

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Three Waterwomen on Conserving the Ocean /video/voices-for-the-ocean-patagonia-film/ Tue, 14 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /video/voices-for-the-ocean-patagonia-film/ Three Waterwomen on Conserving the Ocean

Surfers Belinda Baggs, Liz Clark, and Moona Whyte​ċċċċċċ reflect on their relationship to conservation

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Three Waterwomen on Conserving the Ocean

, from , features surfers , , and reflecting on their relationship to conservation while snagging a few waves in Sumbawa, Indonesia.

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‘The Last Whalers’ Illuminates a Dying Way of Life /culture/books-media/the-last-whalers-doug-bock-clark-book-review/ Fri, 11 Jan 2019 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/the-last-whalers-doug-bock-clark-book-review/ 'The Last Whalers' Illuminates a Dying Way of Life

Doug Bock Clark’s deeply reported book is an immersion into the world of an ancient tribe that still relies on a whale hunt for sustenance, while adapting to the creeping influences of modernity

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'The Last Whalers' Illuminates a Dying Way of Life

In a tiny village on the flanks of a jungle-blanketed volcano on a remote island in far-eastern Indonesia, a call goes out. A sperm whale has been sighted. Hundreds of men race to the beach, find their clansmen, and paddle out into the Savu Sea in small, hand-hewn wooden boats. On a raised platform attached to the bow stands a lone figure scanning the horizon: the lamafa (harpooner). Once the motorless boat is maneuvered to within striking distance of the whale, the lamafa launches himself from the platform, driving the harpoon in with his body weight before swimming back to the boat, which is now tethered to the leviathan. As it runs and dives and resurfaces, the whale is pricked with harpoon after harpoon in a highly choreographed sequence, and the Lilliputian fleet is dragged for miles. If the hunt is successful, the whale expires and the boats unfurl palm-leaf sails and tow it back to shore. It is butchered on the beach, and thanks are given to the ancestors before its flesh is divided among villagers in a manner proscribed by hierarchy and tradition.

It all sounds like a fantasy, something more out of the 18th century than the 21st, and yet this was what Doug Bock Clark encountered in 2011 when he first visited the village of Lamalera, on the south coast of the Indonesian island of Lembata. Clark, a widely published magazine journalist, was finishing a yearlong Fulbright fellowship on a nearby island when he went to see the Lamalerans for the first time. They are widely thought to be the last purely subsistence whalers on earth, and the place exerted a powerful pull on him. From 2014 to 2018, he returned seven times, spending in total over a year on the island learning their language, observing their hunts, and becoming enmeshed in village life. The result is his forceful debut book ($30, Little, Brown and Company), which follows a cast of Lamalerans as they navigate the tension between a world governed by their own traditional “Ways of the Ancestors” and the strange new notions of “progress” lapping up on their shore. Clark’s finely wrought, deeply reported, and highly empathetic account is a human-level testament to dignity in the face of loss and a stoic adherence to cultural inheritance in the face of a rapidly changing world. It forces us to reckon with the question of what stands to be lost as the tide of modernity sweeps over the last redoubts of hunter-gatherers like the Lamalerans.

And what hope, then, do these whalers have of resisting the onslaught? “There is a saying in Lamalera,” Clark tells us. “Preme ki, ‘Hope, but not too much,’ reflecting the belief that the whales would never come if the people demanded them.”


(Courtesy Little, Brown and Company)

The Lamalerans’ hunting is allowed under , so long as they are consuming rather than selling their catch. For the 1,500 Lamalerans, the roughly 20 sperm whales they take on average annually are a dietary necessity. The poor soil and lack of flat areas in their small territory make agriculture impossible. They rely on what they can take from the sea, including fish, rays, dolphins, and sharks. But sperm whales still form the protein bedrock of their diet as well as their most valuable commodity for bartering for corn and other necessities with nearby mountain tribes. It’s a hardscrabble life, and a poor fishing season can leave a family, or even the entire village, on the brink of famine. It is for this reason, Clark writes, that they are “one of the most generous societies in the world,” with portions of each whale reserved to be handed out to members of clans or families who have not had a successful hunt, a sort of ritualized social-welfare program that assures nobody starves.

Given their reliance on the whales, it is no surprise that their entire culture and belief system is oriented toward the hunt. Their cosmology is built around the seasonal return of whales: shamanistic rituals are designed to guarantee a good hunt, and every gust of wind has a potential message about the whales, delivered by the omnipresent spirits of the ancestors. The hunt itself has a vocabulary so specific that it brings to mind that old (and debunked) cliché about the number of words the Eskimo have for snow. The specificity serves a purpose, allowing whalers “to compress paragraphs of information about the hunt into a few syllables,” Clark writes. “More than that, though, they were also linguistic microcosms of a whole way of life, and will be among the first words to vanish if the Lamalerans’ culture weakens.”

That “if” may be more of a “when.” Already the old whaling songs go unsung and are forgotten. A diesel generator is installed and the tribe’s whale-oil lamps begin to rust. A gong formerly used to call together traditional gatherings corrodes and cracks. A banner featuring the face of a congressional candidate is repurposed as a sail, displacing traditionally woven, labor-intensive palm-leaf sails. Television arrives, then a road, a port, cell-phone towers. An electric drill is used to rebuild a traditional ship, even as the rest of it is shaped by hand in accordance with the way such boats have been constructed for centuries. Clark writes of the aging whaler overseeing that reconstruction: “Frans had to accept that no amount of effort could resurrect the past or freeze the present. The only choice, then, was how much to evolve.”

Adaptation is not new to the Lamalerans. They themselves are immigrants who had to adjust to a new place when they arrived perhaps 500 years ago after an odyssey from their original home island somewhere to the east. Over the past century, their isolation has eroded, but their culture has proven pliable. They have integrated Catholicism, which arrived on the island in 1920, into their traditional animism, and they have incorporated new fishing techniques brought from overseas. Perhaps the biggest change began in the 1990s, when the tribe added a new type of vessel to its fleet of traditional paddle-and-sail-equipped whaleboats: small motorboats they called jonson after American-made Johnson outboards that were the first to reach the island. The motorboats, as Clark explains, were just a new tool, but the other, more crucial elements of the culture remained intact: the ethos, the pride, the deep sense of belonging, the boys who aspire to stand on the prow and harpoon a whale. But it is by such small accretions, perhaps, that larger things are lost. Some of the older whaling boats molder from disuse, “splattered with chicken poop and blotted with moss.”

Clark successfully depicts these people in their full human complexity rather than as primitive tropes.

Clark’s prose soars, sometimes a little too high—things evanesce, sunsets fume, the stars are a heavenly chandelier—but that’s a small quibble. There are just as many lovely turns of phrase, like the “bricks of flesh” that pile up as a whale carcass is flensed. Furthermore, Clark’s sympathy for and devotion to his subjects is real: he speaks both Indonesian and Lamaleran and fosters an intimacy that allows him to disappear entirely in the telling of their story. He brings us into his characters’ lives, showing us the rhythms of Lamalera and the day-to-day tensions the villagers face: the apprentice whaler who likes texting with girls and thinks about moving to Jakarta to pursue an easier life; the young woman who moves back to the village after graduating from university, only to wonder whether she can see a life for herself there; the aging harpooner who doesn’t know if his sons will be able to follow in his footsteps. Clark sees in them, possibly, an element of the cure for our corrosive modern times. “The worst forms of modernity look a lot like an addiction, and perhaps the Ways of the Ancestors are an antidote,” he writes. “Their great heroism is that they are striving, despite overwhelming odds, to control the process that has hijacked all of humanity.”

Heroic though it may be, such an outlook toes the line of romanticism. For the most part, Clark successfully depicts these people in their full human complexity rather than as primitive tropes. But he tends to favor the traditional over the modern, as when, in speaking of a clan that was wealthy enough to send its children to school before the others, he can’t help but lament that “their future harpooners became paper pushers.” His sympathetic view also glosses over certain less savory aspects of the village’s traditional way of life: the capriciousness and grinding poverty of the subsistence lifestyle, the rampant drinking and smoking, the curtailed life expectancy, and, more recently, the alleged trafficking of wildlife parts to the lucrative Chinese market.

Whaling—including subsistence whaling by indigenous groups—is a fraught subject and under various threats, and there are times as a reader where you’re left wanting Clark to zoom out and offer a bit more on the broader context. ϳԹr fishermen, for example, have begun arriving in greater numbers in the Savu Sea, enticed by global markets in places like Japan and China, and Lamalerans report diminished catches of rays and sharks, perhaps due to overfishing. With the road, new port, and better cell-phone coverage, the village has begun to attract more visitors and even started appearing on websites for adventurous travelers.

Lamalera has also attracted the unwanted attention of conservation groups. In 2017, for example, the Nature Conservancy began working with the Indonesian government , arguing that the introduction of motorboats meant the Lamalerans had already given up their traditional culture. There is a dark irony here, that having escaped colonialism for five centuries, the Lamalerans could be forced to lay down their harpoons by the neocolonial effects of conservation. “For the Lamalerans, the very idea of conservation is foreign,” writes Clark, and they’re not wrong to be dubious. “History has shown time and again that depriving indigenous people of their livelihoods often leads directly to their end, as they lose their identities within a generation.”

The Lamalerans are left wondering whether their hard-won knowledge and remarkable skill set, crafted over centuries and handed down over generations, have any value in this new world. They retain their dignity, but it is increasingly tinged with a fatalistic sadness. The lamafa is a revered figure among the tribe, but an aging whaler wonders what those skills might be worth in this modern world. For “no matter how great a lamafa he was, he still lacked the ability to provide for [his family] in a changing world, where his skill with a harpoon was of diminishing importance.”

But the problem is more than a matter of retraining and retooling; it is existential, a question of cultural survival. Or as Clark puts it, “After all, who are whalers who do not whale?”

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‘Indonesia’: A Travel Film /video/indonesia-travel-film/ Mon, 20 Aug 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /video/indonesia-travel-film/ ‘Indonesia’: A Travel Film

Indonesia is a travel video from filmmaker Josh Cowanon a 5 week trip through the film’s namesake country.

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‘Indonesia’: A Travel Film

Indonesia is a travel video from filmmaker abouthis fiveweek trip through the film’s namesake country.

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Meet the World’s Coolest Airbnb Hosts /adventure-travel/destinations/worlds-coolest-airbnb-hosts/ Thu, 26 Jul 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/worlds-coolest-airbnb-hosts/ Meet the World's Coolest Airbnb Hosts

What if you show up to your oceanfront bungalow in Indonesia and your host has left you a surfboard, or you arrive in Colorado and the guy who hand-built your cabin also has tips on where to find the best powder stashes?

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Meet the World's Coolest Airbnb Hosts

A comfortable bed, a good location, and some cool art make for a nice vacation rental, but what if you show up to your oceanfront bungalow in Indonesia and your host has left you a surfboard, or you arrive in Colorado and the guy who hand-built your cabin also has tips on where to find the best powder stashes? Now that’s a trip you’ll remember.

Stephane and Allie Bruni-Riendeau

(Keri Knapp)

Revelstoke, British Columbia

Stephane and Allie Bruni-Riendeau are the caretakers of Revelstoke’s ($88), which is owned by the parents of the co-founder of Moment Skis. After you check in, you can test a pair of demos from the Moment fleet in the garage. There’s a ski boot room with boot dryers, hiking and mountain bike trails across the street, and a basket of Clif bars up for grabs. Plus, Stephane is a ski filmmaker who will shoot a personalized video to capture your trip, and Allie is a DJ and yogi who will host yoga sessions at the house if you want.


Prakash and Pramila Dhakhwa

(Courtesy Sailesh & Co)

Patan, Nepal

Long-distance mountain biker Prakash Dhakhwa runs this homestay with his family in the historic in Patan, Nepal (from $60). You can rent a studio loft, single room, or a two-bedroom, each with access to a rooftop terrace and steps from Golden Temple and Durbar Square. Black-and-white photos by Dhakhwa’s father line the walls. His wife, Pramila, will cook you a traditional Newari dinner in the dining room. Going trekking? They’ll store your luggage while you’re away.


Eben and Darcee Mond

(Courtesy Darcee Mond)

Silver Plume, Colorado

Silver Plume is an old mining town an hour west of Denver. There’s not much there besides a few year-round locals, a housed in a former bakery, and stellar access to some of the highest peaks in Colorado. Stay in Eben and Darcee Mond’s , a historic bungalow first built in 1880 and hand-restored by Eben in 2012 ($125), and he’ll tune your skis in his basement shop and offer beta on local backcountry zones. Better yet, your stay comes with a free ski pass to nearby Loveland.


Adrian Ballinger and Emily Harrington

(Courtesy Adrian Ballinger)

Squaw Valley, California

Mountain guide Adrian Ballinger and pro climber Emily Harrington spend a lot of time away on expeditions. When they’re gone, they rent out their near the base of Squaw Valley ($195). Along with the sleek one-bedroom space, you’ll get access to their cruiser bikes with studded snow tires and ski racks, an espresso machine and a bag of local coffee beans, and a huge stash of climbing and skiing guidebooks, which you can browse while perched in front of the wood-burning stove.


Bruce Robinson

(Courtesy Bruce Robinson/Airbnb)

Lombok, Indonesia

You’ll come to remote Lombok to get away from Bali’s main tourist scene, but you might as well come to visit Bruce Robinson, who owns in Gerupuk Bay (from $40). Robinson, a Southern California surfer who spent years living in Hawaii before relocating to Indonesia, will set up motorbike rentals and surf lessons in front of the house. He’ll even paddle you out to a secret surf break in the middle of the bay.


Beth and Cody Harris

(Courtesy Beth Harris)

Castle Dale, Utah

Salt Lake City-based climbers Beth and Cody Harris met and got married in Yosemite, lived the van life, and later built their own sailboat, which they sail out of the Seattle area all summer. You can rent either half of their renovated four-bedroom home, called , in Castle Dale (from $72), 2.5 hours south of SLC and just minutes from Joe’s Valley, a world-class sandstone bouldering area. The Harrises lend out climbing guidebooks and a Black Diamond crash pad, and they’re more than happy to offer tips on climbing in the area.


Joseba Rekondo

(Courtesy Joseba Recondo)

San Sebastián, Spain

Joseba Rekondo, who manages in an apartment building in the Old Town area of San Sebastián (from $34), will make you feel like a lifelong friend who’s been invited to crash at his place. He grew up in the area and will show you the best bars, food, live music, and surf breaks. Rekondo will even set you up with a surf lesson through . The accommodations look like well-appointed hotel rooms but feel like a communal hostel, thanks a shared kitchen and bathroom down the hall.

​ċċċċċċ

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Life Among Indonesia’s Volcanoes /video/life-volcanoes-indonesia/ Mon, 26 Mar 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /video/life-volcanoes-indonesia/ Life Among Indonesia's Volcanoes

In Indonesia, living among hundreds of volcanoes is simply daily life.

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Life Among Indonesia's Volcanoes

Filmmakers and set off to capture the relationship Indonesians have with the ancient land in their filmAmongst Fire.

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Rural Indonesia Is the Next Great Climber’s Paradise /outdoor-adventure/climbing/rural-indonesia-next-great-climbers-paradise/ Wed, 12 Jul 2017 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/rural-indonesia-next-great-climbers-paradise/ Rural Indonesia Is the Next Great Climber’s Paradise

After three days of climbing and bolting in this area, we headed home, convinced that rural Indonesia has the potential to become a dream destination for outdoor enthusiasts

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Rural Indonesia Is the Next Great Climber’s Paradise

Last January, Andy Cochrane, the marketing director of , approached me with an idea: partner with the boat manufacturer to explore and promote rural Indonesia’s potential new ecotourism opportunities.

The country is geographically stunning, and offers the promise of world-class rock climbing. We were , the most fertile region in Timor Island, located on the slopes of the Mutis mountain range whose peaks reach heights of up to 8,000 feet.

(Adam Wells)

For the past two decades, mining companies have ravaged this area: in 1994, there were about five companies extracting marble from Mollo towns. As mining activities began, the locals suffered the consequences. Forests were cut down, creating massive landslides, and the water was madeundrinkableby pollutants. On June 3, 2000, . They stayed for two full months, eventually forcing the concessionaire to halt its work and leave. Since then, Baun and other community leaders have organized their towns to unite against and evict mining companies in other areas in Mollo. In 2004, the groups formed a federation of indigenous communities called Organisasi A’ttaemamus (OAT).

Earlier this month, Iset out with 11other people—including journalists, the, andOru Kayak employees and ambassadors—to visit the country and meet with OAT organizers. We hoped to work with them to bring attention to the outdoor recreation possibilities in the area and to start developing an economic alternative to mining—tourism. Through climbing and kayaking, we’d scout new crags and waterways, get a firsthand look at their potential, then promote these locations back home.

From the Denpasar airport, in Bali, we drove four hours into the mountains.The terrain was steep and loosely cultivated. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the entire Mollo village, including , who is a U.N. Ambassador, as well as a parade of dancers and musicians. We stayed in a mud hut: the town has minimal electricity and no running water. The toilets are holes in the ground and the beds simple wood planks.

(Adam Wells)

After this welcome, we discussed our agenda with the locals. Mama Aleta gave us her blessing to explore and climb the nearby limestone, then led a ceremony to ensure our wellbeing. Then, we set off to explore.

The world-class climbing potential we found was staggering. There is no shortage of limestone, all of it high quality, in unique stalactite-like formations. Towering bands of cliff, riddled with caves and sheer, vertical faces, speckle the area. The rock is clean below a thin layer of moss and dirt.

After three days of climbing and bolting in this area, we headed home, convinced that rural Indonesia has potential to become a great destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Next, we want to attract more people—and infrastructure—to this area by producing content and publicity to the area (like the article you're reading right now), as well as return in the future to dedicate more time to development, like bolting more climbs and cleaning more trails.

I want visitors to responsibly experience this area’s natural splendor and to see, first hand, the impact of the mining industry. Tourism revenue already provides a trickle of support to the local community. In the future, as more enthusiasts learn about this destination and ones like it, we can turn this trickle into a flood that supports local industry and protects against mass resource extraction.

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