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Our national-parks expert headed across the Atlantic to explore. From northern Finland to the Italian coast, these spectacular spots topped her bucket list.

The post Top 6 National Parks in Europe—And the Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs in Them appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

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Top 6 National Parks in Europe—And the Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs in Them

When I had the chance to spend some time in Europe this year, the first thing I wanted to do—well, besides find some really good cheese—was figure out how to visit as many national parks as possible. As the editor in chief of , °żłÜłŮ˛őľ±»ĺ±đ’s sister brand, I spend a lot of time thinking about national parks. Whether it’s figuring out how to pack as much as possible into a weekend in Yellowstone, thinking about the implications of reservation systems, or dreaming about units to visit, I eat, sleep, and breathe America’s best idea.

But narrowing down the European parks to visit proved tougher than I’d imagined. While the 27 EU member countries share a market and (mostly) a currency, each nation’s approach to public lands is vastly different. Some European national parks are all pristine wilderness areas and have strict recreation-use laws. In others, you’ll find trendy bars serving Aperol spritzes, with Vespas parked outside. There’s even a Croatian national park with a zoo, complete with an elephant, ostriches, and zebras. Slovenia has just a single park; Finland has dozens.

While European parks run the gamut, they all have one thing in common. They’ve been set aside as meriting designation, meaning they’re worth a visit to see something meaningful, whether that’s glistening glaciers, spectacular mountain peaks, hanging bridges across thundering rivers, or ancient vineyards clinging to cliffs above the sea.

These are the European national parks that top my travel bucket list. I’ve been to several of them and can’t wait to see the rest.

1. Triglav National Park, Slovenia (Triglavski Narodni Park)

Admission: Free

TriglavEuroNational
Triglav National Park is the only national park in Slovenia and a treasure trove of wilderness. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

WHY GO: While Alpine countries like France and Austria get most of the love, many people know almost nothing of one of the Alps’ best destinations: Slovenia. On my first visit to the country I was instantly charmed by the country’s rolling pastures, pretty churches set against the backdrop of mountains and blue lakes, and university-town capital, Ljubljana, which, with its avant-garde metalwork and dragon mascot, has a decidedly punk feel. When I realized that a subrange of the Alps was protected in the northwestern corner of the country as Triglav National Park, I knew I had to return.

Nestled up against the Italian border and nearly touching Austria, Triglav is home to thick forests, rivers, mountain villages, and big peaks that quickly made it one of my favorite national parks. Mount Triglav is the crown jewel at 9,396 feet, but plenty of other impressive summits draw peak baggers from across the world. Vogel Ski Resort can be found here too, offering 14 miles of terrain.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

BEST ADVENTURES: Most park visitors flock to the Lake Bohinj region, a nearly 800-acre glacially carved valley filled with deep blue water where you can rent traditional wooden rowboats ($16/hour), among other watercraft. Vogel is in this area, and you can take the gondola and chairlift ($34 roundtrip for adults) partway and hike to the summit. The 6.1-mile trail isn’t technical, but it is steep in places, secured with cables and pegs. Keep your eyes peeled for the ibex and chamois that live here.

Lake Bohinj, Slovenia
Many visitors head for Lake Bohinj, Bled, Slovenia, and it is easy to see why. (Photo: TONNAJA/Getty)

Watch the weather for wind gusts that could shut down the lifts, and stay aware of the time, because it’s a long trek back down if the chairs stop running before you reach them (they close at 4 p.m. in the summer). At several traditional huts on the mountain, you can enjoy local cheese and mountain dishes like goulash.

While the Bohinj area is the most popular, venturing further into the park is absolutely worth it. Head up and over the steep and narrow VršiÄŤ Pass to Triglav’s more remote west side (my favorite), where you’re as likely to encounter a herd of sheep blocking the road as cyclists riding on it. Tackle the 15-mile , a hike that can be done in a long day, or at a slower pace, where you spend the night in one of several villages along the way. The beautiful trail follows the river, which is so clear and bright it almost hurts to look at. My husband, dog and I got distracted on our hike and instead spent a pleasant afternoon wadingĚý in the cold snowmelt. Wind your way gradually down valley under larches and across swinging bridges.

Soca River, Triglav National Park
The 15-mile SoÄŤa River Trail in Triglav National Park follows the clear, rushing river. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

If you really want to get away, several long-distance trails, including the Via Alpina red route (1,500 miles) and the Alpe Adria Trail (466 miles), run through Triglav. For less of a commitment than those, head into the Seven Lakes Valley on a multi-day excursion, where you can spend the night in several maintained huts (no camping is allowed in the backcountry).

HOW TO GET THERE: Slovenia has a great public transportation system, making it easy to get from Ljubljana to Bled by train (40 minutes) and then Bled to Bohinj by bus (40 minutes), so you can stay in the capital and still explore the park. Buses run to other parts of Triglav, too, but pay attention to timetables, as they are less frequent and getting a taxi or rideshare won’t be an option in remote parts of the park.

Triglav National Park, Slovenia
Log pod Mangartom, a village in the Littoral region of Triglav National Park, Slovenia (Photo: Pavel Tochinsky/Getty)

BEST TIME TO GO: June to September is high season for hiking and hut availability, but can also be crowded. Snow melts early in this part of the world, so low elevation hikes can be done in the spring and fall to avoid the crowds. Ěý

WHERE TO STAY: Accommodations, from private hotels and guest houses to campgrounds and mountain huts, abound inside the park. My husband and I like staying in Bohinj on the west side for easy access to Vogel and the pretty town of Bled, or the quiet village of Trenta on the east side. For an alpine experience, book a bed at Tičarjev Dom ($47 per person with breakfast), the mountain hut at the summit of Vršič Pass. You’ll sleep dormitory-style and rise to incredible mountain views the next morning from the patio over a bela kava (coffee with milk).

2. Oulanka National Park, Finland

Admission: Free

cliff and river, Oulanka National Park
The Ristikallio formation above the Avento River, Oulanka National Park, Northern Finland (Photo: Karl Ander Adami/Getty)

WHY GO: If you’re looking to get into some of the most remote wilderness on the continent, head to Oulanka National Park in Finland. The park hugs the Russian border in the far northeastern part of the country above the Arctic Circle and is an experience in solitude. In fact, the wilderness doesn’t stop at state lines. It continues east, bleeding quietly into Russia’s Paanajärvi National Park, with a simple rope forming the border and keeping canoeists in the EU. Last year I visited Levi Ski Resort in Finnish Lapland, four hours to the north, and fell in love with polar night. Getting back is at the top of my list and this time I want to get deeper into the wilderness, specifically at Oulanka.

Levi ski resort, Finland
The author on her previous trip to Finnish Lapland, at Levi Ski Resort last year (Photo: Topher Yanagihara)

Planning a trip to this remote land filled with boreal forests, rushing rivers, and limestone gorges isn’t easy, but I promise the hardest part will be picking which season to visit–winter or summer? This far north, the year is capped by eternal night in the deep winter, when you can snowshoe, cross-country ski, and try to spot the Northern Lights, and permanent sun in the height of the warm months, with plenty of daylight for canoeing and hiking trips.

Oulanka National Park in Finland
Canoeing at Oulanka river, Oulanka National Park, Kuusamo region, Finland (Photo: Gonzalo Azumendi/Getty)

BEST ADVENTURES: Summer visitors have two main choices for exploring: by water or by land. Paddlers can rent canoes and camping gear from to embark on a trip down the Oulankajoki River. The lower section is calm, with a short two-hour option to a takeout or a seven-hour route that makes an excellent overnight trip with a stop at any of several campsites or the first-come, first-served Ansakämppä Wilderness Hut. There are rapids and a portage on the upper section of the river, so skip it unless you’re an experienced boater.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

On foot, try the , a loop that crosses some of the park’s famous hanging bridges. In summer months, the trail is one-way (clockwise). Backpackers can head out on the 50-mile Bear’s Ring, aka . Finland’s most popular hike traverses the park from north to south, with each stage ending on a bus route in case you’d prefer to sleep in a real bed, or campsites and huts along the way if you’d rather rough it. Thundering rivers, placid streams, bogs, hanging bridges, and delicate purple orchids await. Look out for traditional Sami herders and their reindeer, who still inhabit the area today.

In the winter, I love how the mercury plunges when Finnish Lapland freezes over, rewarding intrepid and cold-tolerant visitors with a magical landscape. It’s my favorite time of year to be in Finland. Pines and spruces thick with frozen snow stand like fuzzy sentinels over ice-crusted rivers and cross-country ski trails. In December and January, you’ll find a scant three hours of daylight. In late winter, you’ll still experience plenty of darkness for northern lights spotting, but will also be treated to long sunrises and sunsets, turning the landscape into a cotton-candy-colored forest.

snow covered suspension bridge over the River Kitkajoki, Finland
Suspension bridge over the River Kitkajoki, near Myllykoski, in winter in the Oulanka National Park, Finnish Lapland (Photo: Martin Zwick/REDA & CO/Universal Images Group/Getty)

Use an app like My Aurora Forecast to monitor northern-lights conditions for your best chance at spotting the undulating colors. Other winter options are to rent snowshoes or cross-country skis in nearby Ruka and set off on the park’s many trails.

HOW TO GET THERE: The closest airport to the park is Kuusamo, which has several flights from Helsinki each day, plus a few other major European cities like Brussels and Frankfurt. While renting a car in Kuusamo is the easiest mode of travel, a bus route from the airport accesses the Karhunkierros Trail, Oulanka National Park Visitor Center, and Ruka, if you’re eager to add downhill skiing to your itinerary. Ruka Ski Resort is Finland’s best known, and has a long season lasting October to May.

BEST TIME TO GO: Peak season for hiking and canoeing, the park’s main attractions, is July through September when the weather is warmest and most predictable (think 50s) and the days are the longest. To see the Northern Lights and get out on snowy trails, December through March are the best season, but be ready for temps from freezing to below zero.

WHERE TO STAY: For the most options, base yourself at Ruka Ski Resort. Ruka offers all sorts of lodging options and the park is a quick 30-minute drive away. Winter visitors who want to go all out should stay at , with glass igloos perfect for aurora spotting (from $347/night with breakfast). If you want to be closer to the park, ’s cozy wilderness hotel borders it (from $109/night for a double room).

3. Cinque Terre National Park, Italy (Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre)

Admission: $21-$35/day for train and trail access

Cinque Terre
The national park of Cinque Terre is comprised of five villages, clinging to cliffsides above terraced slopes. Shown is Corniglia. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

WHY GO: I’d seen the brightly colored Italian houses clinging to cliffs above an azure sea on my Instagram feed, but had no idea that the five villages making up the Cinque Terre (note the article “the,” as you’ll be judged mightily for dropping it) are actually a national park until I visited this past spring. The land here is characterized by its human influence. The steep hills leading straight into the sea have been terraced and cultivated for more than 1,000 years.

Cinque Terre National Park
The steep seaside hills both above and below the villages have been terraced and cultivated for more than 1,000 years. Here Manarola is seen from above. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

BEST ADVENTURES: The most popular hiking route is the Blue Trail (also called the Sentiero Azzuro or SVA), the main path that historically connected all five villages. In 2019, a landslide took out the section of trail between Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore, and maintenance work is ongoing, though the Manarola to Riomaggiore section reopened in July. The sections between Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare remained open. Whenever you choose to travel, start out as early in the day as possible or plan an evening hike to dinner to avoid the crowded midday hours. Taking the train back is also always an option if the trails get packed (we had to turn around and take the train in April because the pathway was gridlocked).

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

(grab a focaccia made with the region’s famous pesto for my favorite mid-hike snack) and on to Monterosso is 4.1 miles one way with 2,000 feet of elevation gain. A less popular, but in my opinion even better, hike on the Blue Trail is the . You’ll climb up to the tiny town of Volastra, perched above the Cinque Terre, and then back down to Manarola. Time your hike so that you can grab a glass of wine and bruschetta at Cantina Capellini, a winery producing the Cinque Terre DOP white wine. The simple patio is right on the trail, situated amongst the vines, and overlooks the sea. Make sure you have room in your pack for a bottle to take home.

Cinque Terre
Ancient trails between all the villages take you to dream views like this of Corniglia. Or you might enjoy them from a restaurant patio. (Photo: Mikaela Ruland)

Heading south from Corniglia and ending in Manarola is 3.6 miles one way, with 1,300 feet of elevation gain. The descent on this route is heinous (you’ll end lower than you began), so you may want to skip this one if your knees are bad.

When you’re not on the trail, take advantage of amazing food (cornettos! pesto! wine! fried anchovies! focaccia!) on a patio, or head down to the water. Each town has sea access for swimming, though you won’t find much of a beach anywhere besides at Monterosso. Spread a towel on the rocks and sunbathe, or ($10.75/hour rentals from Riomaggiore) to explore the coastline.

HOW TO GET THERE: Fly into Florence, Milan, or Rome. Trains run directly from these major hubs to La Spezia Centrale, the closest city to the Cinque Terre, or you can drive to La Spezia Centrale and park your rental car in the large garage at the station. From there, it’s a quick seven-minute train ride to the first village, Riomaggiore. Each additional village is just a few minutes further up the tracks. If you plan on utilizing both the train and the trails, purchase a in advance, which allows unlimited train rides between villages (including La Spezia), access to the trails, and free use of the toilets at each train station ($21-$35/day).

BEST TIME TO GO: Hiking the Cinque Terre is best done in the off-season. Summer crowds are epic, and the trails can get packed by late morning even in the spring and fall.

While it’s a gamble to visit in the colder months (November through March), as the trails can close when weather is bad and you’ll have fewer lodging and dining options, it’s the least busy season. Plan a visit for the fringe months of March or November to capitalize on good weather and to beat the masses.

Riomaggiore village and coastline of Ligurian Sea
View of part of Riomaggiore village and the Ligurian Sea. Riomaggiore is one of the five ancient colorful villages of the Cinque Terre National Park in Liguria, region of Italy. (Photo: watcherfox/Getty)

WHERE TO STAY: You’ll find hotels in Monterosso and Riomaggiore on each end, as well as in the larger city of La Spezia, a quick train ride away. But for the most authentic experience stay in one of the three central villages. Book a vacation rental (Airbnb has plenty of options) in Vernazza, Corniglia, or Manarola, and you’ll get to experience the towns when all the day tourists from the cruise ships have left. Quiet restaurants, empty streets, and coffee with the locals each morning are treats.

My favorite village is Corniglia, for its smaller size and gorgeous view from atop a hill, though the walk from the train station up a long set of stairs to the town makes coming and going a chore. We ended up skipping our dinner reservations one town over in favor of staying put here with a bottle of wine and take-out focaccia.

4. Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park, Italy (Parco Nazionale Dolomiti Bellunesi)

Admission: Free

via ferrata in Dolomites
Sorry, but the author strongly suggests you try a via ferrata when in the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park, Dolomites, Italy. (Photo: Westend61/Getty)

WHY GO: While each region of Europe’s Alps has its own flavor, the Italian Dolomiti are particularly impressive. Craggy mountains, mist-filled valleys, and sweeping forests provide one of my favorite landscapes in the world.

The range, which encompasses northeastern Italy, is home to the 12 world-renowned ski areas that make up the Ikon Pass destination Dolomiti Superski. It’s also a Unesco World Heritage Site and the location of several incredible regional parks, such as Tre Cime. But you’ll only find one national park, Dolomiti Bellunesi, in the region. I’ve somehow missed this corner of the Dolomiti in all of my adventures here, so I can’t wait to plan a trip back to see it.

Stretching 12-square-miles northwest of Belluno, this somewhat under-the-radar park offers visitors the best of the Dolomiti, with fewer crowds than the area’s better-known and more northerly destinations of Tre Cime, Seceda, and Lago di Braises. Home to via ferratas, two of the famous Alta Via trails, and countless quintessential Italian villages, this is the place where you want to start your Dolomiti adventure.

BEST ADVENTURES: You’ll want to experience this national park by foot–miles of trails cross the mountains, including two of the Alta Via, or “high routes.” Alta Via 1 is a classic and one of the least technical of the routes, running 75 miles from Lago di Braies to La Pissa. The final four stages, which are often the least crowded, wind through the park. Alta Via 2 also includes three stages in the national park, from Passo Cereda to Passo Croce d’Aune. This route is more technical, with via ferratas required along the way. A climbing harness, helmet, and gloves are needed to tackle this option ( in Cortina d’Ampezzo for $23/day).

Whether or not you embark on one of the park’s through-hikes, you should definitely experience a via ferrata while in the Dolomiti. Popularized during WWI in the region to help troops navigate vertical terrain, these “iron paths” use ladders, rungs, pegs and steel cables affixed to rocks to help people move across the cliffs. The park’s highest peak, Schiara, has three via ferratas ringing it: Zacchi, Berti, and Piero Rossi, which, linked up, make for a long but doable day in the mountains if you stay at ($74/night for half board). These routes lean toward being difficult, so hiring a guide is advisable. I found to be excellent on my most recent via ferrata adventure, on the Punto Anna route in Cortina d’Ampezzo, an hour and a half north.

via ferrata in Italty
Ruland on a via ferrata in Cortina, north of the national park. See how much fun? (Photo: Mikaela Ruland Collection)

Cyclists can test their mettle on the grueling stage 20 of the 2022 Giro d’Italia route, which runs 104 miles (168 kilometers) from Belluno to Marmolada, crossing through the park on SR203. Whatever activities you choose to get up to, make sure to include some time on either end of your trip for a quick detour to the so-called Prosecco Road between Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, where the prestigious DOCG (the highest quality designation) sparkling wine is produced in the hills. My favorite producer, Adami, is one of the oldest in the region and has an excellent tour and tasting experience.

HOW TO GET THERE: Venice offers the closest major airport, and train service to Belluno takes approximately two hours. From there, the Dolomiti bus services many of the roads within the park, but note timetables, as service can be limited. Unless you’re planning a through-hike, the best way to explore the Dolomiti is by renting a car in Venice or Belluno, then driving to trailheads.

BEST TIME TO GO: Most staffed rifugios (mountain huts) away from the ski resorts are only open to hikers in summer, so June through September are the best months to visit if you’re planning an overnight adventure. The weather often stays pleasant through October, though, and travel then is a great way to skip out on some of the crowds if you’re prepared for the possibility of an early season snow storm.

hikers in Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park
Hikers follow the seven-stage Alta Via trail, which passes across the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park. (Photo: Westend61/Getty)

WHERE TO STAY: Hiking the Alta Vias, even just a few linked stages, takes forethought, as many of the rifugios along the route fill up early in summer. Start planning in January or February when availability opens. Otherwise, you’ll find accommodation options—including hotels, guesthouses, rifugios, and vacation rentals—in and around the park, but book early as options can be limited. Belluno, with 36,000 inhabitants, is the closest major town.

For a unique experience, plan a stay at an agriturismo, a working farm where you’ll be treated to meals with homemade products like cheese and salumi. Mountain pasture cheesemaking has become a somewhat lost art in the Dolomiti, but this park has worked hard to restore five of these “malga” operations. If you don’t stop at an agriturismo, watch for latterias (like Latteria Perenzin in San Pietro di Feletto) where you can buy the locally made cheese alongside salumi and other products perfect for a picnic.

5. Samaria National Park, Greece

Admission $5.50

Samaria National Park, Greece
Visitors pass through the narrowest, most dramatic section of the longest gorge in Europe, in Samaria National Park, Greece. (Photo: Corey Buhay)

WHY GO: Encompassing the longest gorge in Europe, Samaria National Park showcases the best of the Mediterranean, from towering cliffs to fragrant cypress trees, and from white limestone riverbeds to the sparkling sea itself. Since the park is comprised almost solely of one long, steep , you can experience the place in its entirety, from the White Mountains to the Mediterranean, in one day. Samaria Gorge is located on the western side of Crete, Greece’s biggest island. I haven’t gotten to Greece yet, but a friend and colleague promises me that it’s the first place I’ll want to go.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

BEST ADVENTURES: The park is open, weather permitting, from May through October. Entry begins at 7 a.m., and it’s an excellent idea to start out then, before the heat of the day. Much of the trail is exposed and sunbaked, so going the first or last month of the season is wise to avoid the mid-summer heat. The park closes down during excessively hot stretches, or if flooding is possible in the shoulder season. Pay attention to the heat and hold off if the temperatures are dangerous. It’s usually a five- to seven-hour hike without services, so pack plenty of water and snacks; bring sun protection, a hat and a neck gaiter to help stay cool; and wear hiking footwear. Water from springs is often available along the route, but don’t count on it.

Church in the national park of Samaria, Crete
Ancient church in a temple ruin in the national park of Samaria, Crete, Greece. (Photo: DEA/Archivio/J. Lange/Getty)

You’ll start hiking steeply downhill, taking in the views of the surrounding White Mountains, before continuing through a pine and cypress forest and reaching the church of St. Nikolas inside the ruins of an ancient temple. Look around for kri kri, wild Cretan goats. Cross a few streams and you’ll find yourself in the ancient village of Samaria, which is now solely inhabited by park staff.

The gorge gradually narrows as you cross through a (hopefully) dry riverbed, alongside striped rock walls, into the skinniest point in the canyon, where the walls are just under 10 feet apart. The park closes at 6 p.m., so make sure you’re through the exit by then. Either walk another 1.5 miles or hop on a cheap shuttle to get to the village of Agia Rouméli, where you can grab a late lunch or early dinner at one of several restaurants and, if time allows, take a well-earned dip in the Mediterranean.

woman on rock looking at river in Samaria Gorge in Greece
An American visitor, Corey Buhay, contemplates a clearwater pool during the long but heavenly day in Samaria Gorge National Park (Photo: Corey Buhay Collection)

The single ferry leaves the village at 5:30 p.m., only once per day, so don’t miss it or you’ll have to arrange a taxi boat or stay in the village. Depart at Chora Sfakion or Sougia and take the bus back to your car or lodge. If arranging your own transportation stresses you out, many tour companies offer guided excursions in the park.

HOW TO GET THERE: From Athens, fly into Chania International Airport for the closest access to the park. In Chania, you can either rent a car and drive to the gorge, or purchase a bus ticket to Xyloscalo, at the start of the trail. The full hike is one way, and at the end you’ll take a ferry to Sougia ($16/person) and then the bus either back to your car at the trailhead or your hotel in Chania. Be sure to reserve your return tickets in advance to avoid getting stranded.

BEST TIME TO GO: Samaria Gorge is open May through October, with the beginning and end of the season providing the coolest temperatures.

WHERE TO STAY: Most visitors base in the city of Chania and do the trip to Samaria Gorge in one long day, but if you, like me, would prefer a slower pace and to experience the secluded village of Agia Rouméli without the crowds, you can stay at one of the few hotels or vacation rentals in town. offers rooms, breakfast and beach loungers starting at $79 per night. You can spend the entire next day enjoying the beach before catching the ferry back.

6. Écrins National Park, France (Parc National des Écrins)

ADMISSION: Free

La Grave, Ecrins National Park
Summer in the beautiful village of La Grave, at the border of the Écrins National Park in Hautes-Alpes, Alps, France. Towering above the town is the landmark La Meije peak. (Photo: Francois Roux/Getty)

WHY GO: Écrins National Park, a glacier-filled alpine paradise with more than 150 peaks topping 3,000 meters, sits near the Italian border in eastern France. The Alps are one of my favorite landscapes in the world and, after visiting them in Austria, Italy, Slovenia, Switzerland, and Lichtenstein, I put this French national park squarely on my to-do list. Barre des Écrins is the tallest summit here, towering 13,458 feet above the park, the most southerly 4,000-meter peak in the Alps. Here, amongst the chamois you’ll almost certainly spot, you’ll feel like you’re at the top of the world.

BEST ADVENTURES: You could hike the park’s many trails, including a section of the Grand Écrins, but this is also a space known for its alpine climbing. If you’re looking for adventure, a three-day mountaineering- and glacier-skills course with will help you tag the summit of Barre des Écrins, staying in remote mountain huts ($1,645).

Les Deux Alpes bike park
A mountain biker at the lift-served Les Deux Alpes bike park in the French Alps, eastern France (Photo: Jean-Pierre Clatot/AFP/Getty)

Within the boundaries of Écrins are two ski areas, and two others just bordering the park might be the area’s most famous, especially for cyclists. Les Deux Alpes bike park is one of the biggest in the Alps and is home to beginner- to competition-level courses in everything from downhill to enduro with pristine alpine views. Alpe d’Huez offers one of the Tour de France’s most iconic climbs in addition to the wild Megavalanche, a mass-start mountain-bike race on a glacier. Ride into the national park, which has around 100 miles of marked bike trails.

HOW TO GET THERE: The closest major city is Grenoble, France. Fly into Lyon, Geneva, Marseille, or even Paris and take a high-speed train to Grenoble. From there, if you plan on some serious exploring, it’s best to rent a car, but bus service is also available to Les Deux Alpes if you will stick to the resorts or hire a guide to get into the mountains.

Lac PĂ©tarel, Parc National des Ecrins, French Alps.
Hike to Lac PĂ©tarel in the Parc National des Ecrins, French Alps. (Photo: Jean Kaniewicz/Getty)

BEST TIME TO GO: July through September are the months to visit to avoid snow in this mountain environment.Ěý

WHERE TO STAY: The ski resorts and villages in and around Écrins provide ample lodging, but to really get away from it all, book a stay in one of the 40 throughout the park. While some of these mountain huts simply serve as basic overnight shelters for mountaineers, others are staffed in the summer, offering hot dinner and breakfast and often a lovely patio on which to take in the setting sun in a gorgeous high-alpine setting.

Refuges almost always require a hike to reach, so choose your trail, do your research and book ahead to ensure you have a bed waiting at the end of your day.

Mikaela Ruland is the editor in chief of National Park Trips. She lives for the outdoors, and you can usually find her hiking, skiing, or mountain biking. She’s been to national parks on three continents, including 23 of the 63 U.S. national parks. Her favorite is whichever one she’s traveling to next.

woman and dog in front of village of Cinque Terre
Ruland and Hazelnut in Cinque Terre, Italy (Photo: Author Collection)

 

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Seize the Summer! 10 Incredible Trips Our Editors Are Taking. /adventure-travel/destinations/best-summer-trips-2024/ Thu, 16 May 2024 11:00:28 +0000 /?p=2668163 Seize the Summer! 10 Incredible Trips Our Editors Are Taking.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř editors know the best places to go on vacation. Let our summer plans be your inspiration.

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Seize the Summer! 10 Incredible Trips Our Editors Are Taking.

We are ready for summer. We’ve got our lightweight tents and Tevas out, spend our free time examining trail maps, and have been outdoors soaking up the longer days in preparation for all sorts of adventures. Where are we going this summer? Some of us have plans to escape to tropical Caribbean ports and the high peaks of South America, while others are simply road-tripping one county or one state over for a long weekend escape.

Haven’t nailed down the specifics of your summer vacation yet? It doesn’t have to be spendy, and you can go with friends, family, or solo. Just pick a place that will offer a sense of wonder, a disconnect from your routine, preferably in nature, which has been shown to improve everything from our psyches to our relationships and even heal heartbreak. Here are the trips we’ve booked.

Northern New Mexico

A woman sits on stones at Black Rock Hot Springs along New Mexico's Rio Grande
Black Rock Hot Springs, located 13 miles northwest of Taos, New Mexico, on the west side of the Rio Grande, is a peaceful way to spend a summer morning. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

When the heat hits the country with full force in July, my husband and I will head from our home in Santa Fe, New Mexico, up north to cooler climes near Taos. We’re eager to stay at , which isn’t a hotel at all but a grouping of vintage Airstreams all decorated differently. We’ve rented Castor, built in 1972, our best friends have rented the adjacent Pollux, from 1967, and we’ll share a deck. Each trailer has a queen bed, a full kitchen, a bathroom, and views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains. The hiking around Taos is incredible, too, with trails in nearly every direction.

From Luna Mystica, you can walk to the Taos Mesa Brewery’s mothership location, which has a stage and live music many summer nights. Early in the mornings we’ll drive the quick 13 miles to the Black Rock Hot Springs on the Rio Grande; my husband will fly-fish from the wide banks while I soak and enjoy the July traffic through the canyon: dragonflies, swallows, kayakers, hawks, and bright-yellow butterflies.

One day we want to tour the nearby , self-sufficient off-grid homes that look like futuristic dwellings. I’m fascinated by their modern sustainability efforts but also love their incorporation of beautiful, unique design elements—walls made of used tires and earth or accents of recycled glass bottles that glimmer colorfully in the sun. —Tasha Zemke, şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř managing editor

Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming

At some point over the winter, I decided I sucked at climbing. As I dragged my feet out of the gym, devoid of stoke and prepared to suck again the next day, I had no idea how to cure my melodramatic self-diagnosis. But that changed two months ago when I started climbing with the , a mentor program in the Denver area led by big-wall athlete Jordan Cannon. A dozen of my peers and I have attended clinics, trainings, lectures, and meet-ups to define and achieve our climbing goals, and it all culminates in a final trip in June to Ten Sleep, Wyoming.

Why Ten Sleep? This tiny cowboy town in the north-central reaches of the state happens to be the base camp of a massive limestone canyon 15 miles away with more than a thousand sport routes for climbers of every skill level. One of last year’s mentees called it “Shelf Road on steroids”—a reference to a popular Front Range climbing mecca—and noted how the population of the local campground, when filled with climbers, seems bigger than the actual town itself. —, National Park Trips digital content producer

Saint Lucia

A romantic view of Saint Lucia's Pitons and Soufrière Bay shows why it's a top spot with honeymooners.
Saint Lucia, one of the Caribbean’s Windward Islands, has gorgeous blue waters, thriving coral reefs, and the wow factor of the Pitons—which, though tall, are not the nation’s tallest peaks. (Photo: Paul Baggaley/Getty)

My fiancé and I are taking our honeymoon this summer on the Caribbean island of Saint Lucia, best known for two mountains called the Pitons—Gros Piton and Petit Piton. While we’re eager to lounge on the white-sand beaches, snorkel, eat jerk chicken and breadfruit, and enjoy a mud bath at Sulphur Springs, in the dormant Soufrière volcano, we’re most looking forward to guided hikes. I’m especially excited to tackle the Gros Piton Trail (see Gaia GPS map below), which is three miles round-trip, with a little more than 1,800 feet of elevation gain.

We’ve been told this is challenging, but the view from the top of the island and the sea is said to be spectacular. Plus, I plan to set my alarm for an early-morning run just as the sun rises over the sea. —Mallory Arnold, Run associate editor

Machu Picchu, Peru

A woman looks at the Inca site of Machu Picchu citadel with three cute llamas beside her.
Yes, llamas do make the trek to Machu Picchu to haul gear. There are also about two dozen llamas that wander the historic Inca site. (Photo: Westend61/Getty)

I’m an editor at Backpacker, and the biggest hiking goal of my life has always been Machu Picchu. I first learned about the ruins in Peru in my middle school history class, and the combination of hiking and Indigenous history intrigued me. A trip to South America seemed like a long shot, but I kept dreaming. Flash forward to the end of May: my college friends and I are going international on our annual reunion trekking trip. We’ll fly into Cuzco and spend two days acclimatizing to the altitude—a little more than 11,000 feet—while touring the city before hitting the Inca Trail with , a sustainable-tourism company.

For four days we’ll hike between 7,218 and 13,780 feet before ending at the famous Inca site. With porters carrying our belongings and chefs cooking our meals, this is going to be a lot more glamorous than my usual excursions to the backcountry. I can’t wait. But there’s a more personal reason why this trip is particularly meaningful to me: I recently learned that a suspicious mole was actually stage-one melanoma and was sidelined for weeks in between procedures. I can’t imagine a better place to celebrate being cancer-free. — Emma Veidt, Backpacker associate editor

Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Two men atop Mount Alice in Rocky Mountain National Park admire their surrounds above the tree line.
Mount Alice is a 13,305-foot peak accessed via Wild Basin in Rocky Mountain National Park. Anyone exploring the park’s backcountry should come prepared with navigation knowledge as well as proper clothing. This photo was taken in September. (Photo: Courtesy James Dziezynski)

My theme for the summer is: Stay local, but get far, far away. From our home in Boulder, Colorado, my wife and I can drive to Rocky Mountain National Park in less than two hours, and we’ve exploited that proximity to visit many of the park’s peaks, lakes, and trails. Not surprisingly, popular spots are often packed with other nature lovers. So this year we’re taking advantage of a little-used type of wilderness permit to escape the crowds. We’ve reserved long weekends in four of Rocky’s 23 , remote areas without developed trails or campsites, where we’ll likely see more elk and moose than people.

Hidden in some of the park’s most rugged terrain, typically at elevations of 9,000 to 11,000 feet, these zones require expert navigation skills and total self-reliance. Expect rangers at the backcountry desk to quiz you on bear safety, Leave No Trace ethics, orienteering know-how, and prior wilderness experience before issuing your permit, and expect challenging bushwhacking through dense forest. But the reward is worth the effort: the crisp, star-filled nights, high-country wildflowers, and Alaska-worthy solitude will make you feel much farther from civilization than you actually are.

Fair warning: the park provides scant information about the zones, and trip reports are few and far between. Your best bet is to download the and subscribe to the Premium edition so you can access detailed topo maps for offline use (there’s typically no cell reception in these zones). Study the terrain closely before you go, and don’t expect to cover more than one mile per hour. —Jonathan Dorn, şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř, Inc., chief entertainment officer

Switzerland

A waterfall drops down a sheer Alpine face into Switzerland’s verdant Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Staubbach Falls, one of 72 waterfalls in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, drops nearly a thousand feet, making it the third-tallest in Switzerland. (Photo: Jorg Greuel/Getty)

When I realized I’d be spending my 30th birthday in Europe, I only had two nonnegotiables: Alpine hiking and cheese. Switzerland, specifically the Lauterbrunnen Valley, perfectly fit that bill. My husband and I are planning to spend four nights in the central Jungfrau region: one in a village hotel at each end of the valley, and two at the remote , an off-grid hut that’s only accessible by foot through forests and wildflower-filled pastures. (See Gaia GPS map to the hut below.) Reservations can only be made by phone, a charming and slightly confusing experience that secured us a bed in a private room, breakfast, and dinner for two days for about $106 per person per night.

We’ll fill our days ascending the area’s many trails in the shadow of imposing peaks, past some of the valley’s 72 waterfalls, and our evenings eating hearty meals, including Obersteinberg’s homemade cheese. I’m crossing my fingers that raclette is served–my favorite Swiss dish, it consists of melted cheese scraped over potatoes–but if not, I’ll indulge back in town with a celebratory pot of fondue.

We’re traveling to Switzerland by car but will leave it parked in Interlaken to take advantage of the valley’s excellent public transportation (think: trains, trams, and gondolas), as many of the hamlets are otherwise inaccessible. —Mikaela Ruland, National Park Trips editor in chief

Victoria, British Columbia

A pod of orcas skim the surface off British Columbia.
Transient orcas swim the waters around Vancouver Island and have been spotted in Victoria’s Inner Harbour hunting seals. (Photo: Rand McMeins/Getty)

Last year my husband and I became rooftop-tent converts in Iceland. I’ve pitched and slept in backpacking tents my whole life, and I never thought I’d be into a roof rig until our European rental experience went right. We realized it can take us two minutes, instead of twenty, to set up or break down camp. Plus, memory foam is so much comfier than the ground, and our gear stays a helluva lot more organized inside the vehicle.

So we scored an open-box deal on a , and this summer we’re taking it for a spin from New Mexico up through the Pacific Northwest to Canada. We’ll hit campsites near Olympic National Park along the way, before ferrying to Victoria, British Columbia, to hang out at an oceanside apartment along a 70-mile bike path for six weeks. We’re stoked to beat the heat, enjoy the nearness of open water, and work from a place that’s new to us both where we can trail-run through the backcountry.

On our way home, we’ll swing through Banff, in Alberta, then Glacier National Park, in Montana—two bucket-list areas I’ve been dying to check out. The best part? My husband is the king of finding last-minute camping reservations, so I barely had to lift a finger to map it all out. —Patty Hodapp, şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online interim digital director

Paris and Annecy, France

A canal cuts through the town of Annecy, known as the Venice of France.
Cut through by canals and the Thiou River, Annecy is known as the Venice of France. It’s also a recreational hub, with lakeside biking, paragliding from the surrounding Alps, hiking, boating, and canyoneering in nearby Angon Canyon. (Photo: Stephanie Hager/HagerPhoto/Getty)

I’m heading to Paris for the Summer Games! I’ve been a huge fan of the Olympics for as long as I can remember, and about a year ago I haphazardly put my name on an email list for the ticket lottery. I didn’t put much thought into the idea of actually attending, until I beat out thousands of other eager fans (a process that saw me awake at 3 A.M., repeatedly refreshing my browser) to secure two tickets to men’s rowing in late July.

This will be my third time to the French capital, so after the event concludes and I’ve gotten my fill of Olympic pride, I plan to head southeast to Annecy, a town on the French-Swiss border, for a long weekend in the fresh Alpine air. I’ll brave the frigid temperatures of Lake Annecy, stroll Jardins de ’Europe, and of course do some hiking. Routes to the Citadel of Lake Annecy and the Parmelan Plateau have already caught my eye, but like most things, there’s something to be said for going in with half a plan and figuring out the rest later. —Jamie Aranoff, Ski digital editor

British Columbia’s West Coast Trail

A woman carrying a big backpack looks over the black-sand shoreline and wind-blown trees of British Columbia’s West Coast Trail.
The 48-mile West Coast Trail, which follows the Pacific, is challenging and wild. Permits are required, July and August are considered the best months to tackle it, and most hikers complete it in about a week. (Photo: Kaitlyn McLachlan/500px/Getty)

Ever since writer Scott Yorko pitched me on the deadly history of Canada’s (see Gaia GPS map below) a number of years ago, I’ve wanted to see the area’s storied shipwrecks, beaches, and wildlife for myself. Yorko wrote not only of the dramatic rescue attempts that led to this 48-mile path’s construction along British Columbia’s rugged coast but also of sandy campsites, verdant rainforest walks, tide pools brimming with sea life, and a floating crab shack that caters to hungry hikers.

In June, I’ll finally experience the trail for myself. I’m prepared for slow miles through boot-sucking mud, rickety wooden ladders, cable cars, and changing tides. With any luck, my partner and I will spot sea lions, whales, and otters; bears, cougars, and wolves are also known to wander the shore. The salty air and marine views should be a welcome departure from the alpine hikes I usually gravitate toward in the summer, and I couldn’t be more excited. —Zoe Gates, Backpacker senior editor

The Andes, Chile

A group of skiers stop on the slope to admire Lago del Inca at Portillo, Chile.
Skiing down to Lago del Inca is one of the highlights of a trip to Portillo, Chile.ĚýOlympic training camps have been held at the ski resort, but its slopes are also beginner-friendly. (Photo: Jakob Schiller)

In 2013, I spent five months living in southern Chile. But that was before I was a skier. In the intervening decade, I’ve spent 100 days on snow almost every year. I rarely travel away from my home in the eastern Sierra to ski these days, but my ultimate dream trip is a ski trip to Chile and Argentina. This is the year that becomes a reality. In August, when the austral winter is in full swing, my fiancĂ©e and I will fly from Los Angeles to Santiago and enjoy the change of scenery while sipping pisco sours, sightseeing at the Pablo Neruda museum, and checking out the mountaintop zoo. The following day we’ll take a bus to Portillo, a resort nestled among the Andes that’s famous for runs that empty out at Laguna del Inca, for three days on the slopes, and after that, we’ll travel southeast to Las Leñas, in Argentina, for a final two days of skiing above wine country. I never much cared for summer anyway. —Jake Stern, şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online digital editor

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5 Fun, Affordable Alternatives to Pricey Bucket-List Destinations /adventure-travel/advice/affordable-travel-destinations-2024/ Fri, 22 Mar 2024 12:00:56 +0000 /?p=2661881 5 Fun, Affordable Alternatives to Pricey Bucket-List Destinations

These Alpine, Caribbean, and glamping getaways have all the amazing scenery and none of the over-the-top prices

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5 Fun, Affordable Alternatives to Pricey Bucket-List Destinations

We all dream of visiting the world’s best places. But in what’s shaping up to be the most expensive year to travel since before the pandemic, it’s also good to branch out. One of the biggest travel trends of 2024 is destination “dupes”—affordable alternatives that are just as dreamy and beautiful as the most popular places but aren’t as expensive or crowded.

Europe in particular is filled with historical, lively cities that can serve as stand-ins to their well-known counterparts. For example, if you long to visit Amsterdam for its river scene and cafés, you might try Rotterdam, just 50 miles to the southwest. If you like Munich for its beer culture and jaw-dropping Baroque buildings, check out the German cities of Nuremberg or Stuttgart. If you’re drawn to Vienna for its music and art scene, try Graz, in Austria’s eastern Alps. In the U.S., music lovers might check out Memphis, Tennessee, rather than Nashville.

Which destinations will offer the most bang for your buck this year? I looked at some popular bucket-list trips and have come up with alternative destinations and itineraries that will be just as much fun and cost you less.

Summer Hiking in Europe

Dreaming of: The Italian Dolomites
Try This Affordable Alternative:ĚýThe Slovenian Alps

A view of Slovenia’s Bled Island and the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary
Slovenia’s Lake Bled sees fewer tourists and recreationists than other alpine destinations. It’s also a leader in European sustainability; visitors are asked tour the area via foot, rent a bike or electric vessel, or hop the tourist train that runs in the summer. (Photo: Getty Images/Wolfgang Kaehler)

The limestone peaks of the Slovenian Alps are similar to those found in northern Italy. Slovenia is half the size of Switzerland (and half the cost), and it’s incredibly easy to get around its hills, thanks to more than 6,200 marked trails. Members of Slovenia’s Alpine Association help manage a network of nearly 180 , such as Triglav Lodge at Kredarica, located near the nation’s highest peak, 9,400-foot Triglav.

This country also has some of the nicest glamping accommodations I’ve ever seen. Garden Village Bled, a short walk from Lake Bled, feels straight out of a Grimm’s fairy tale, with riverfront tents starting at $120 and family-friendly treehouses starting at $260. And with nearly 60 Michelin-starred restaurants in the immediate surrounds, you can have insanely good food for a serious bargain. The nine-course tasting menu at Hisa Linhart, for example, costs $140.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Intel: The 167-mile Juliana Trail made its debut four years ago and wends through both quaint towns and Triglav National Park. One şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř writer spent nearly three weeks trekking it and enjoying the sites and local hospitality. If cycling is your thing, now’s the time to get wheeling on the Trans Dinarica Route through the Balkans; the northern terminus is Slovenia’s Soca Valley. We mention details and outfitters on the entire 1,250 miles in this year’s travel awards.

Glamping in the Southwest

Dreaming of: Camp Sakira, Utah
Try This Affordable Alternative:ĚýBaseCamp 37, Utah

A BaseCamp 37 glamping tent with two chairs and a grill fire out front sets a cozy scene amid the southwestern desert landscape near Kanab, Utah.
At BaseCamp 37, just nine miles from the town of Kanab, Utah, six canvas tents are spread out to make you feel like you have your own slice of solitude. Each has its own outdoor fire pit and indoor heating as well as electric mattress pads to keep you warm on cold desert nights. (Photo: Courtesy BaseCamp 37)

Five nights in one of the five nice safari tents at , a remote glampground 15 minutes from Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument will cost you about $1,000. That’s dramatically less than one night at Camp Sakira, where tents start at $7,547 per night for double occupancy (and includes amenities like airport transfers, all meals, and adventures like a full-day national-park tour). You won’t have a private plunge pool, but BaseCamp 37 does have a mini pool where you can cool off, plus Wi-Fi, grills, and two indoor kitchens. Another economical option is , located 15 minutes from the south entrance of Zion National Park. It has a pool and a hot tub and hosts live music and movie nights. Its covered wagons (with A/C) and canvas tents start at around $200.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Intel:ĚýOur Ultimate Guide to Zion National Park will set you up with must-have intel on everything from iconic spots like the Narrows and Subway to slickrock side options that leave the crowds behind. And if you haven’t yet read about the Aquarius Trail, it’s time you did. This nearby bike-packing hut system is open from early July to late September and is just the place to take your hardtail for the adventure of its life.

A Family Road Trip

Dreaming of: The California Coast
Try This Affordable Alternative:ĚýBritish Columbia’s Vancouver Island

A woman walks up a set of wooden stairs while gazing up at the surrounding rainforest near Ucluelet, British Columbia.
The Rainforest Trail in Pacific Rim National Park has two easy loops that wend along wooden boardwalks past massive ancient cedars. (Photo: Courtesy Destination BC/Cristina Gareau)

Given the strength of the dollar, a road trip along the western coast of Vancouver Island provides more bang for your buck, and with its old-growth forests and wild beaches, it rivals the Cali coast in terms of scenic beauty. I suggest the two-hour drive from Victoria to Port Renfrew, stopping en route to explore the hiking trails and beaches of Juan de Fuca Provincial Park and camping at China Beach ($20 per group). lodging is conveniently positioned between two coastal trailheads: the challenging West Coast Trail and the more mellow Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, and its cozy wharfside cabins feature kitchenettes and start at $190. Continue another 210 miles north to the surf town of Tofino, and consider tacking on a stay in the neighboring town of Ucluelet, at the Nami Project, a collection of oceanfront, self-catering suites and cabins right next to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Rates start at $343.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Intel: Those old-growth trees have their own support system—activists blocking clearcutting and provoking 2021’s War in the Woods—the largest act of civil disobedience in Canadian history. Our reporter embedded with them to get some perspective on that island movement. And if your B.C. vacation takes you into the interior, we’ve got nine choice suggestions on how to maximize yourĚýoptions. Bear-watching is one of them. Try not to think about the mountain biker in coastal B.C. who survived an attack by a grizzly by using his pocketknife. (That tale’s a good one for the campfire.)

A Caribbean Beach Getaway

Dreaming of: The Bahamas
Try This Affordable Alternative: Colombia

A boat waving the Colombian flag prepares to pull up to the sandy shore of the Rosario Islands.
Thatch-roofed lodging, tropical scenery, and amazing snorkeling appeal to travelers who make their way to the Rosario Islands. Its coral reefs are part of a national natural park. (Photo: Getty Images/Wirestock)

This South American nation may not be the first place that comes to mind when you hear the words “Caribbean vacation.” But the country’s turquoise waters and white-sand beaches could easily be mistaken for any stretch of gorgeous shoreline in the Bahamas. Deborah Gellis, a travel agent with Embark Beyond, says that its activities, dining, and hotels offer prices unseen in Mexico and the Caribbean in more than ten years. Many people day-trip to the Rosario Islands from Cartagena via a 45-minute boat ride. This archipelago of 27 powdery-sand islands is surrounded by incredibly clear waters and boasts pristine coral reefs. Stay at , where a sea-view room will cost less than $200. You can walk out the hotel door and beĚý snorkeling and paddleboarding in minutes. Or stay closer to Cartagena on Tierra Bomba, reached via a 25-minute boat shuttle from the city’s port; on the island’s western shore lies , where a beach-club day pass costs $25 (and includes transfers) and rooms start at $159. A residency program allows musicians and artists to share their talents in exchange for free stays.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Intel: A few Caribbean destinations have been grappling with crime in recent years, including the Bahamas. This spring we reported on itsĚýlevel 2 advisory (reconsider travel) Ěýand exactly where the trouble there has been occurring. If you’re still set on a dream trip there, read this first. We also like Todos Santos, Mexico, for affordable beach getaways. Check out our guide to a good time there from a writer who chose to work remotely from the Baja town for a few months. It’s true, that water isn’t Caribbean blue. So maybe you head to Puerto Rico, where the water hue is one you dream of, you don’t need a passport, and lodging and food won’t set you back an arm and a leg. We like that idea, too—Puerto Rico is another one of our choices for travel in 2024.

A Ski Weekend

Dreaming of: Big Sky, Montana
Try This Affordable Alternative:ĚýMorzine, France

A couple in ski wear pause on snowy slopes overlooking the resort village of Morzine, France.
Morzine sees an average annual snowfall of nearly 14 feet, has access to 209 chairlifts and 308 runs, and affords views of 15,771-foot Mont Blanc. It’s a 90-minute drive from Geneva, Switzerland. (Photo: Courtesy the Morzine-Avoriaz Tourism Office)

Lift ticket prices at almost any European ski resort are cheaper than in the U.S., especially if you skip big-name spots like Chamonix, France, for lesser known destinations like , just an hour north. Part of the huge Portes du Soleil ski area that straddles the Swiss border, Morzine offers everything from gentle groomers to serious off-piste action. Compared to a three-day lift ticket at Big Sky ($644 in March, not including an extra ticket to access terrain off the tram), which has 5,800 skiable acres, a three-day pass at Morzine costs less than $200 and includes access to all 12 resorts that comprise Portes du Soleil—in total, nearly 100,000 skiable acres. Because this is France, meals are a highlight, but instead of paying $20 for mediocre food-hall tacos, you might opt to spend $35 on wood-fired beef rib for two at the cozy mountain hut Chez Nannon.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Intel: You’re not far from Switzerland in Morzine, and we wouldn’t blame you for crossing the border just to eatĚýä±ô±č±ô±đ°ůłľ˛ą˛µ°ů´Ç˛Ô±đ˛Ô, or herdsman macaroni. You can read about that gooey goodness here. Want to look like a local while you’re swooshing the slopes? The key piece of gear might be these glacier glasses from Julbo; the Chamonix company invented that particular kind of eyewear protection. Warning: unlike the places we’re pitching in this article, they’re not cheap. But they are cool.

The author poses at a sign that says "Grand Tour of Switzerland," with a view of the Matterhorn behind her.
The author in front of the iconic Matterhorn, in the Swiss Alps (Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Jen Murphy is °żłÜłŮ˛őľ±»ĺ±đ’s travel-advice columnist. She’s explored the famous mountains of France, Switzerland, and Italy, but believes the lesser known Julian Alps in Slovenia are equally awesome and the country’s food and wine just as delicious.

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Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now. /adventure-travel/advice/2024-summer-olympics-paris/ Mon, 30 Oct 2023 11:30:48 +0000 /?p=2648661 Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now.

One of the planet’s most popular sporting events is kicking off in one of the world’s most popular cities in July—prime tourist season, on the tail of the Tour de France. Here’s what you need to know.

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Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now.

I have always wanted to go to the Summer Olympics, and the upcoming Games in Paris sound like a dream. Are tickets still available? Are flight prices sky-high? Should I even attempt this? —Stoked About the SpectacleĚý

Paris is always popular, especially in summer. So when one of the world’s greatest cities hosts one of the planet’s greatest sporting events—the Olympics—everyone will want to be there. Officials in Paris project that 11.3 million people will attend the Summer Games, which run July 26 through August 11, and 3.9 million will attend the Paralympic Games, which take place August 28 through September 8.

As if those numbers aren’t daunting enough, keep in mind that hordes of Americans flock to France (and the rest of Europe) to travel each summer, and the Tour de France will once again draw legions of spectators to the country from June 29 until July 21. So if you’re thinking of visiting, you’d better get cranking now on hotel and restaurant reservations, plane tickets, and transportation.

Can You Still Get Tickets to the Summer Olympics?

Throngs pack in one of the transmission areas in Paris, with French flags waving and a big-screen TV in the background
Expect significant crowds at the live-transmission fan-zone areas, seen here, that will be spread about Paris. (Photo: Getty Images/Stephane de Sakutin)

Scoring tickets to the upcoming Olympics is akin to scoring a camping reservation in Yellowstone—it has to do a lot with timing and luck. Nearly 70 percent of the ten million tickets available for the Games have already been sold via the official ticketing platform ; one million of those were snapped up in global drawĚýin May in just 36 hours, a new Olympic sales record. Ticket sales for the Paralympic Games opened on October 9 on the same site.

Since July 5, tickets have been on sale in real time. Will you find one to the event of your choice? Maybe. Think of it like nabbing a last-minute campsite due to a cancellation: if tickets become available because someone has decided they cannot go, for example, they can be put on sale anytime. The good news is, almost 60 percent of tickets have been priced at 100 Euro ($106 as of press time) or less. They may be the most affordable part of your trip. You can find a full ticket-price breakdown .

Some events, including triathlon, sports climbing, BMX and BMX freestyle, and breaking (breakdancing) sold out in less than two hours. As you might expect, tickets for certain finals, including judo and three-on-three basketball, are also sold out. According to data specialist Statista, the most popular Summer Olympic sports among Americans are gymnastics, swimming, and diving, and when I last got on the Paris 2024 site, some tickets for these events were still available.

Here are a few ways to improve your chances of getting tickets: Create an to receive regular updates on ticket releases. An official . Consider investing in travel packages from , the official Olympic hospitality provider. Basic travel packages range from $520 to $870 per person per night at a three-star hotel and a ticket to watch one Olympic event, such as women’s field hockey or the men’s street final in skateboarding. The next tier up are hospitality packages, which start at similar pricing but don’t cover accommodations, only tickets, with primo seating and exclusive access to in-venue lounges for marquee events like soccer. If a specific Olympic event is high on your bucket list, consider splurging on a travel agent. Jean-Pierre Soutric, a Paris-based agent at ,Ěýand Hillel Spinner, a New York City–based agent at , provided a wealth of tips for this column and can help with arranging everything from tickets to flights and hotels.

Is It Worth Going to Paris if You Don’t Have Olympics Tickets?

If you want to enjoy the festive atmosphere, yes! Paris plans to offer multiple free viewing opportunities. For the first time in the history of the Summer Games, the opening ceremony won’t take place in a stadium. Instead, it will be held along the River Seine, with no admission fee for spectators to access the upper quays. (A note to anyone who is claustrophobic: at least 600,000 spectators are expected to attend—ten times the amount that could fit in a traditional Olympic stadium).

In addition, 80 big screens and speakers will be placed along the route, allowing everyone to feel a part of the celebration. And throughout the Games, free “fan zones” will be held at the park of La Villette in the 19th arrondissement and at the Trocadéro in the 16th arrondissement, both offering live transmissions of the events.

Soutric personally plans to attend the opening ceremony and other events. He notes that because most people will be in town to watch the Games, either in person or at the fan zones, this a fantastic time to enjoy the city’s typically jam-packed museums and other attractions (if you can find a hotel room; see below for tips). If you feel overwhelmed by the crowds, he suggests a day trip to Versailles, the Champagne region, or Normandy.

Marathon swimming will happen in the Seine. Over the summer, organizers tested its waters with athletes with a start at the Alexandre III bridge.
Marathon swimming will happen in the Seine. Over the summer, organizers tested its waters with athletes, with a start at the Alexandre III bridge. (Photo: Getty Images/Miguel Medina)

Consider Travel Costs

Paris is pricey. Before you put in the time and effort of securing tickets, consider whether you can afford the airfare and a convenient place to stay.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř editor Tasha Zemke, a self-described “major planner,” bid for tickets to the 2012 Summer Olympics in London using that Games’ dedicated website and won tickets to track and field and soccer. Knowing that London was one of the world’s most expensive cities, she started looking for accommodations a year out and was shocked to find hotel rooms in central London already charging upward of 1,200 pounds a night (approximately $1,900 at the time). Ultimately, she settled on an economical bed-and-breakfast 90 minutes north of the city via the tube for her family. But the ride didn’t factor in the 20-minute walk to the local tube station or other forms of packed public transportation to reach each sporting venue. “Every day we were exhausted,” she recalls. “Had I realized how expensive and hectic the trip would be, I might never have gone through with it.”

Summer airfare to Europe is always astronomical, so start searching for fare sales now. Don’t narrow your choice to Paris’s Charles de Gaulle or Orly international airports. You might find better deals into other major European cities and then choose to continue on via train or the Chunnel, car, or low-cost air carriers that serve the Continent, such as EasyJet, Ryanair, Volotea, or Vueling.

Hotel occupancy in Paris during the Olympic Games is expected to be between 56 percent and 76 percent, says Inès de Feran, a spokesperson for the Paris Tourism Office. Room rates in Paris are traditionally high throughout summer and will likely be going for a premium during the Games. (A recent search on Travelocity for a hotel in central Paris on Saturday, July 27, resulted in one property asking $243 after taxes and two properties going for about $385 each; the remaining properties available began at $485 per night for two people.)ĚýThe same is true of Airbnbs and other home rentals. The toughest reservations to secure will be in northern Paris, near the Olympic Village.

Right now it may seem like accommodation availability is scarce, says Soutric. But if you’re willing to gamble on waiting, there’s a good chance you’ll find a place to stay in the spring or early summer. “A lot of hoteliers stopped selling rooms or are holding out for top prices, but plenty of rooms haven’t been sold,” he says. “My suspicion is that as the Games get closer, a lot of rooms will go on sale.”

Map Out the Logistics of Where to Stay During the Olympics

A map of the 2024 Summer Games venues, both in Paris and elsewhere in France and Tahiti
While most events will be held in greater Paris, seven other cities around France, as well as Tahiti, will also host the Games. (Photo: Courtesy Paris2024)

The main Olympic Village is located less than five miles north of central Paris, and 15 Olympic sites hosting 21 sports will be within six miles of the Village. Car traffic will be a nightmare, predicts Soutric. However, the transportation network of the Ile-de-France is working on a specific pass for the duration of the Games, and a specific app and the Paris 2024 site have a helpful that estimates travel time via public transportation between sites.

The speediest way to get around will probably be by bike. New bike lanes being inaugurated for the Games will connect to all competition sites, and extra rental bikes will be added to the city’s current fleet. De Feran says the biggest crowds are anticipated around the , the site of newer sports like BMX and skateboarding.

Before booking tickets, look closely at where the is located. A handful will be scattered across the country. For example, soccer will be played at six stadiums in other cities, including Lyon and Bordeaux. If you’re a Tour de France fan, take note: the traditional Champs-Élysées finish in Paris has been rerouted to end in Nice next year in order to avoid incoming Olympic crowds.

Food for Thought

If you love food as much as you love sports, you won’t be alone; this is, after all, one of the gastronomic capitals of Europe. I asked Lindsey Tramuta, the city’s foremost restaurant expert and author of The New Paris and The New Parisienne, for her picks, both for a casual bite and fine dining. These are her recommendations.

A charming neo bistro (a more casual take on the more formal, classic French bistro) a block from Canal Saint-Martin, in the tenth arrondissement, with a menu rooted in rustic simplicity and natural wines. Don’t miss the signature homemade gnocchi dressed up with seasonal vegetables with labneh and herbs.

A veggie-forward neo bistro in the 11th arrondissement with an extensive selection of natural wines.

and

Two long-standing falafel favorites, both in the heart of the historic Jewish district called the Marais, located in the third and fourth arrondissements.

If budget allows, reserve a meal (or at least drinks) at this rooftop restaurant at the Cheval Blanc hotel in the first arrondissement. Tables overlook the Pont Neuf section of the Seine, and the menu, created by Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Donkele, offers contemporary takes on French-bistro classics.

The author wearing a riding kit and cycling helmet, posing against a glassy lake in a Norwegian fjord
The author during a bike trip in Norway

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř correspondent Jen Murphy was studying abroad in Australia during the 2000 Summer Olympics in Sydney. Even without tickets, she made the journey from the nation’s Gold Coast, crashed in a cheap hostel, and loved feeling the spirit of the Games in the city. She hopes to go to Tahiti to watch the Olympic surfing event this summer.

The post Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now. appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

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Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now. /outdoor-adventure/olympics/2024-paris-travel-plans/ Mon, 30 Oct 2023 11:00:37 +0000 /?p=2674447 Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now.

One of the planet’s most popular sporting events is kicking off in one of the world’s most popular cities in July—prime tourist season, on the tail of the Tour de France. Here’s what you need to know.

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Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now.

I have always wanted to go to the Summer Olympics, and the upcoming Games in Paris sound like a dream. Are tickets still available? Are flight prices sky-high? Should I even attempt this? —Stoked About the SpectacleĚý

Paris is always popular, especially in summer. So when one of the world’s greatest cities hosts one of the planet’s greatest sporting events—the Olympics—everyone will want to be there. Officials in Paris project that 11.3 million people will attend the Summer Games, which run July 26 through August 11, and 3.9 million will attend the Paralympic Games, which take place August 28 through September 8.

As if those numbers aren’t daunting enough, keep in mind that hordes of Americans flock to France (and the rest of Europe) to travel each summer, and the Tour de France will once again draw legions of spectators to the country from June 29 until July 21. So if you’re thinking of visiting, you’d better get cranking now on hotel and restaurant reservations, plane tickets, and transportation.

Can You Still Get Tickets to the Summer Olympics?

Throngs pack in one of the transmission areas in Paris, with French flags waving and a big-screen TV in the background
Expect significant crowds at the live-transmission fan-zone areas, seen here, that will be spread about Paris. (Photo: Getty Images/Stephane de Sakutin)

Scoring tickets to the upcoming Olympics is akin to scoring a camping reservation in Yellowstone—it has to do a lot with timing and luck. Nearly 70 percent of the ten million tickets available for the Games have already been sold via the official ticketing platform ; one million of those were snapped up in global drawĚýin May in just 36 hours, a new Olympic sales record. Ticket sales for the Paralympic Games opened on October 9 on the same site.

Since July 5, tickets have been on sale in real time. Will you find one to the event of your choice? Maybe. Think of it like nabbing a last-minute campsite due to a cancellation: if tickets become available because someone has decided they cannot go, for example, they can be put on sale anytime. The good news is, almost 60 percent of tickets have been priced at 100 Euro ($106 as of press time) or less. They may be the most affordable part of your trip. You can find a full ticket-price breakdown .

Some events, including triathlon, sports climbing, BMX and BMX freestyle, and breaking (breakdancing) sold out in less than two hours. As you might expect, tickets for certain finals, including judo and three-on-three basketball, are also sold out. According to data specialist Statista, the most popular Summer Olympic sports among Americans are gymnastics, swimming, and diving, and when I last got on the Paris 2024 site, some tickets for these events were still available.

Here are a few ways to improve your chances of getting tickets: Create an to receive regular updates on ticket releases. An official . Consider investing in travel packages from , the official Olympic hospitality provider. Basic travel packages range from $520 to $870 per person per night at a three-star hotel and a ticket to watch one Olympic event, such as women’s field hockey or the men’s street final in skateboarding. The next tier up are hospitality packages, which start at similar pricing but don’t cover accommodations, only tickets, with primo seating and exclusive access to in-venue lounges for marquee events like soccer. If a specific Olympic event is high on your bucket list, consider splurging on a travel agent. Jean-Pierre Soutric, a Paris-based agent at ,Ěýand Hillel Spinner, a New York City–based agent at , provided a wealth of tips for this column and can help with arranging everything from tickets to flights and hotels.

Is It Worth Going to Paris if You Don’t Have Olympics Tickets?

If you want to enjoy the festive atmosphere, yes! Paris plans to offer multiple free viewing opportunities. For the first time in the history of the Summer Games, the opening ceremony won’t take place in a stadium. Instead, it will be held along the River Seine, with no admission fee for spectators to access the upper quays. (A note to anyone who is claustrophobic: at least 600,000 spectators are expected to attend—ten times the amount that could fit in a traditional Olympic stadium).

In addition, 80 big screens and speakers will be placed along the route, allowing everyone to feel a part of the celebration. And throughout the Games, free “fan zones” will be held at the park of La Villette in the 19th arrondissement and at the Trocadéro in the 16th arrondissement, both offering live transmissions of the events.

Soutric personally plans to attend the opening ceremony and other events. He notes that because most people will be in town to watch the Games, either in person or at the fan zones, this a fantastic time to enjoy the city’s typically jam-packed museums and other attractions (if you can find a hotel room; see below for tips). If you feel overwhelmed by the crowds, he suggests a day trip to Versailles, the Champagne region, or Normandy.

Marathon swimming will happen in the Seine. Over the summer, organizers tested its waters with athletes with a start at the Alexandre III bridge.
Marathon swimming will happen in the Seine. Over the summer, organizers tested its waters with athletes, with a start at the Alexandre III bridge. (Photo: Getty Images/Miguel Medina)

Consider Travel Costs

Paris is pricey. Before you put in the time and effort of securing tickets, consider whether you can afford the airfare and a convenient place to stay.

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř editor Tasha Zemke, a self-described “major planner,” bid for tickets to the 2012 Summer Olympics in London using that Games’ dedicated website and won tickets to track and field and soccer. Knowing that London was one of the world’s most expensive cities, she started looking for accommodations a year out and was shocked to find hotel rooms in central London already charging upward of 1,200 pounds a night (approximately $1,900 at the time). Ultimately, she settled on an economical bed-and-breakfast 90 minutes north of the city via the tube for her family. But the ride didn’t factor in the 20-minute walk to the local tube station or other forms of packed public transportation to reach each sporting venue. “Every day we were exhausted,” she recalls. “Had I realized how expensive and hectic the trip would be, I might never have gone through with it.”

Summer airfare to Europe is always astronomical, so start searching for fare sales now. Don’t narrow your choice to Paris’s Charles de Gaulle or Orly international airports. You might find better deals into other major European cities and then choose to continue on via train or the Chunnel, car, or low-cost air carriers that serve the Continent, such as EasyJet, Ryanair, Volotea, or Vueling.

Hotel occupancy in Paris during the Olympic Games is expected to be between 56 percent and 76 percent, says Inès de Feran, a spokesperson for the Paris Tourism Office. Room rates in Paris are traditionally high throughout summer and will likely be going for a premium during the Games. (A recent search on Travelocity for a hotel in central Paris on Saturday, July 27, resulted in one property asking $243 after taxes and two properties going for about $385 each; the remaining properties available began at $485 per night for two people.)ĚýThe same is true of Airbnbs and other home rentals. The toughest reservations to secure will be in northern Paris, near the Olympic Village.

Right now it may seem like accommodation availability is scarce, says Soutric. But if you’re willing to gamble on waiting, there’s a good chance you’ll find a place to stay in the spring or early summer. “A lot of hoteliers stopped selling rooms or are holding out for top prices, but plenty of rooms haven’t been sold,” he says. “My suspicion is that as the Games get closer, a lot of rooms will go on sale.”

Map Out the Logistics of Where to Stay During the Olympics

A map of the 2024 Summer Games venues, both in Paris and elsewhere in France and Tahiti
While most events will be held in greater Paris, seven other cities around France, as well as Tahiti, will also host the Games. (Photo: Courtesy Paris2024)

The main Olympic Village is located less than five miles north of central Paris, and 15 Olympic sites hosting 21 sports will be within six miles of the Village. Car traffic will be a nightmare, predicts Soutric. However, the transportation network of the Ile-de-France is working on a specific pass for the duration of the Games, and a specific app and the Paris 2024 site have a helpful that estimates travel time via public transportation between sites.

The speediest way to get around will probably be by bike. New bike lanes being inaugurated for the Games will connect to all competition sites, and extra rental bikes will be added to the city’s current fleet. De Feran says the biggest crowds are anticipated around the , the site of newer sports like BMX and skateboarding.

Before booking tickets, look closely at where the is located. A handful will be scattered across the country. For example, soccer will be played at six stadiums in other cities, including Lyon and Bordeaux. If you’re a Tour de France fan, take note: the traditional Champs-Élysées finish in Paris has been rerouted to end in Nice next year in order to avoid incoming Olympic crowds.

Food for Thought

If you love food as much as you love sports, you won’t be alone; this is, after all, one of the gastronomic capitals of Europe. I asked Lindsey Tramuta, the city’s foremost restaurant expert and author of The New Paris and The New Parisienne, for her picks, both for a casual bite and fine dining. These are her recommendations.

A charming neo bistro (a more casual take on the more formal, classic French bistro) a block from Canal Saint-Martin, in the tenth arrondissement, with a menu rooted in rustic simplicity and natural wines. Don’t miss the signature homemade gnocchi dressed up with seasonal vegetables with labneh and herbs.

A veggie-forward neo bistro in the 11th arrondissement with an extensive selection of natural wines.

and

Two long-standing falafel favorites, both in the heart of the historic Jewish district called the Marais, located in the third and fourth arrondissements.

If budget allows, reserve a meal (or at least drinks) at this rooftop restaurant at the Cheval Blanc hotel in the first arrondissement. Tables overlook the Pont Neuf section of the Seine, and the menu, created by Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Donkele, offers contemporary takes on French-bistro classics.

The author wearing a riding kit and cycling helmet, posing against a glassy lake in a Norwegian fjord
The author during a bike trip in Norway

şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř correspondent Jen Murphy was studying abroad in Australia during the 2000 Summer Olympics in Sydney. Even without tickets, she made the journey from the nation’s Gold Coast, crashed in a cheap hostel, and loved feeling the spirit of the Games in the city. She hopes to go to Tahiti to watch the Olympic surfing event this summer.

The post Thinking of Going to the Summer Olympics in Paris? Better Make Plans Now. appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

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French Cops Will Punish You for Picking These Wildflowers /outdoor-adventure/environment/french-police-punish-wildflower-pickers/ Tue, 22 Aug 2023 22:57:10 +0000 /?p=2643009 French Cops Will Punish You for Picking These Wildflowers

Officials in Savoie recently warned hikers to stop harvesting protected species of flowering plants from the hillsides

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French Cops Will Punish You for Picking These Wildflowers

The next time you’re in the French Alps, be sure to stop and smell the flowers. Just don’t pick any, because cops might slap you with a hefty fine.

The Guardian,Ěýpolice in France’s mountainous Savoie department recently told 20 or so wildflower-picking hikers that if they continued plucking edelweiss and from the mountainsides, they would need to cough up 750 Euro (about $800) in restitution. Officers then confiscated thousands of the plucked flowers during a weeklong enforcement.

The thought of a French gendarme scolding a puzzled hiker with an armful of snapdragons brings a smile to my face,Ěýand it reminds me of the numerous run ins with law enforcement I had while reporting at the Tour de France over the years. A man in blue shouting “No! No! Monsieur!” and wagging his finger like a boarding school headmaster seemed to greet me whenever I attempted to park a car or cross the street at Le Tour. Hon hon hon! Stupid American!

That said, I’m firmly on the side of Jean Law in the case of the illicit flower pickers.Ěý You see, some of the region’s blooming flora is disappearing—certain species are being , while others are literally being picked to death. Tourists pluck daffodils and carnations in such high numbers that the French government places a quota on how many a single person can harvest: no more than 20 per day.

The combination of warming temperatures and plucking have placed the genepi herb in grave danger. In the United States, the plant is commonly called wormwood, the key ingredient in making absinthe and other aromatic liqueurs. It grows anywhere 6,000 to 10,000 feet above sea level, typically on mountainsides that get lots of sun. ĚýA said that genepi habitat across Europe was quickly drying up as glaciers in the Alps continue to retreat. The over-harvesting of the plant prompted authorities to shorten the picking season back in 2021, and to impose a quota system. You can pick no more than 120 flowers—or sprigs—per day for your home absinthe batch.

“We go to [pick] genepi as we go to mass,” a local author named Marie Claude Delahaye after the 2021 rules were created. “That is to say that we go there in a respectful way, because we must give the genepi time to renew itself, otherwise it will be a plant that will be lost.”

A flowering white genepi
White genepi is used to brew a smelly liqueur. (Photo: DEA / F. BERTOLA /Getty Images)

I hope that France’s enforcement of its wildflower rules serves as a friendly reminder to think before you pick. You see, we have similar laws of this nature in the United States. It’s illegal to pick wildflowers (or cut down trees) within national parks, and on all public lands designated for outdoor recreation (national forests, BLM, etc). Specific public lands allow you to cut firewood in designated areas, and to occasionally help remove noxious or invasive weeds. Should you really need that daisy for personal use, can for $20.

Some states, such as Colorado, also forbid the harvest of specific species: plucking a lavender Columbine—the Colorado state flower—will earn you a $50 fine. Others allow you to pick on private property, or on public property if you obtain a permit.

But it’s usually a best practice to leave the pretty flower alone when you’re out for a hike. It’s just going to dry out and die, anyway.

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Hillary Gerardi’s Mont Blanc FKT Was About So Much More than Speed /running/news/people/hillary-gerardi-mont-blanc-fkt/ Fri, 28 Jul 2023 15:17:16 +0000 /?p=2640925 Hillary Gerardi’s Mont Blanc FKT Was About So Much More than Speed

Whether she’s setting mountain FKTs or working to bring attention to climate change, Hillary Gerardi is a force of nature

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Hillary Gerardi’s Mont Blanc FKT Was About So Much More than Speed

The Mont Blanc massif looms large over the Chamonix valley. The summit, Western Europe’s tallest, reaches 15,777 feet above sea level, and the mountain’s shoulders sprawl into Switzerland, Italy, and France. Mont Blanc’s snowcapped ridge dominates the skyline of its surrounding towns and villages, capturing the imaginations of many mountain athletes.

“Living in Chamonix, you’re looking at Mont Blanc all the time. It’s such an emblematic summit,” says Hillary Gerardi, a professional mountain runner for Black Diamond, who grew up in the U.S. but lives in Chamonix, France.

Gerardi, 35, has long been big in the skyrunning scene, with wins at the 2021 Marathon du Mont-Blanc 90K, 2018 Tromso Skyrace, and 2018 Skyrunner World Series. Her mountain movement isn’t limited to running, though. Gerardi set the first and Fastest Known Time (FKT) on the Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route Ski Traverse in 2021.

Gerardi points up to Mont Blanc from Chamonix with a yellow vest on
(Photo: Davina Montaz-Rosset)

Mountain Movement

Gerardi’s love for exceptionally difficult mountain travel was forged in New Hampshire, where she worked in Appalachian Mountain Club huts and spent summers traversing the rocky and rooty Appalachian Trail (AT). After graduating from Middlebury College, she and her now husband Brad Carlson moved to the French Alps to flesh out her alpine skill set with technical climbing and ski mountaineering. At her European racing debut, she won a 12-pound leg of prosciutto.

Gerardi has been competing internationally for years and found herself increasingly drawn to the legendarily fast times on her hometown peak. Trail legends Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg () previously held the Mont Blanc FKTs, and the stout times and multidisciplinary skill set required made the challenge even more alluring for Gerardi.

, author of , and a close friend of Gerardi’s, who also fell in love with running on the AT before moving to explore new heights in Chamonix, says her achievement is extraordinary, even in a community of athletes know for their outlier achievements.

RELATED: Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc: A Beginner’s Guide

“Mont Blanc is the highest summit in Western Europe, and it’s technically challenging. It’s about as iconic a peak as you can get. The FKT is one that also breaks down walls between mountaineering and trail running, so it’s both creative and difficult to accomplish—you need a wide range of skill sets. To break Forsberg’s record, Hillary needed to be damn fast and strong and technically at the top of her game. It’s the purest definition of badass that I have seen in quite some time,” says Mayer.

“For the trail running community, this route is one that merges all kinds of challenges. You shouldn’t go near it without being a strong technical climber. It’s an FKT that combines a wide range of skills and disciplines. This is a multidimensional FKT,” he adds.

After ascending the peak with training partner Mimmi Kotka last season, the seed of the FKT was planted: Gerardi was determined to go for it. She was motivated by having a fast time to beat and challenged by the demanding and ever-changing conditions on the mountain.

Gerardi climbs Mont Blanc at sunrise with mountains purple and orange sky
(Photo: Seb Montaz-Rosset)

Conditions and a Changing Climate

The section of the mountain known as “The Junction” is a labyrinth of treacherous crevasses that had become more difficult after a two-year drought on the mountain. Gerardi began to question if an FKT was in reach, not just for herself, but for anyone.

“I started to wonder: seriously, are these records ever going to be repeatable? Is anyone going to be able to go for them again?” says Gerardi. But, heavy snow in March and April of 2023 improved conditions, and the route started to seem more attainable.

After stepping back somewhat from alpine climbing after an accident in the mountains 11 years ago, Gerardi had begun to rekindle her love for the discipline that would be essential for the FKT, where she would take the more technical North Ridge route, rather than the route taken by Jornet and Forsberg when they set their respective FKTs (for mountain FKTs that don’t otherwise specify a certain route, athletes can choose whatever line feels most efficient and safe to them).

RELATED: A Legendary Alpinist, a French Mayor, and the Melting Glaciers on Mont Blanc

Her training included big days out and lots of vert, coupled with strength training that focused on eccentric loading to prepare her legs for the punishing descents on ice, snow, and technical trails. Gerardi got on the mountain as much as possible, acclimating to the thin air and steep terrain. In addition, she worked on mountaineering-specific skills like glacier travel, crampon-ing, and crevasse rescue skills to mitigate risk in the uncertain terrain.

She also honed her gear, shaving grams off everything she could. Gerardi wanted to involve as many women from the Chamonix community as possible, too, aiming for an all-female ascent with a rotation of different partners for the different segments of the FKT, depending on the partner’s skill set.

Gerardi gave herself a two-month window, an almost absurd amount of time to optimize for, but necessary because of the increased instability of weather related to climate change. Leading up to the big day, Gerardi obsessively checked mountain forecasts and collated information from mountain guides and hut caretakers from around the valley to find the best window for the attempt. She needed the perfect confluence of factors to come together: cold enough up high for the snow to be stable, with warmer temperatures down low to allow the snow to soften from ice and absorb impact.

Finally, on June 17, a weather window opened, and Gerardi was ready.

Setting the FKT

Even with a good window of opportunity, Gerardi and her team were met with extremely windy and cold conditions on Mont Blanc.

“It was so cold that all my water froze,” says Gerardi. “It was really challenging to eat enough and drink enough.” Things started to improve as Gerardi crested the North Ridge right around sunrise, and her movement became more confident and efficient.Ěý“The sunrise was absolutely stellar.”

On the descent, the snow didn’t soften as Gerardi had hoped and planned, as she aimed for a refreeze so that she could glissade down and save her legs for the later on-trail descent.

“When I got back down to The Junction, the snow was hard, and frozen suncups, where I twisted my ankle a couple of times, and let out several f-bombs,” says Gerardi. (Suncups are bowl-shaped depressions in the snow’s surface that form a tough-to-traverse honeycomb pattern).

Friend and fellow skyrunner Meg Mackenzie was waiting just on the other side of the glacier with running shoes, ready to pace, and that helped boost Gerardi’s spirit after the low moment trying to move efficiently through the suncupped snow. Gerardi says the relationships she forged with other women were a highlight of the attempt.

“There were just like a whole bunch of really great gals who have all been super supportive in wanting to help and interested in the project and sort of getting my eyes opened a little bit more into all of these strong badass women who are around here in the Alps,” says Gerardi.

, Gerardi had lowered Forsberg’s FKT by 26 minutes.

Gerardi on the summit of Mont Blanc
(Photo: Courtesy of Hillary Gerardi)

Running to Raise Awareness

Half of all mountain glaciers could disappear by 2100, according to , but it’s not just the mountain’s signature dressing that’s threatened. Permafrost, typically found above 8,000 feet, runs deep into cracks in the rock, helping stabilize them. Rising temperatures cause the permafrost to thaw, creating instability in the mountain’s face, and making it more prone to rockfall and slides. In the last few years, the number of rockfall events in the Alps has increased as temperatures rise, making mountain travel riskier.

Gerardi, who used to work at the Research Center for Alpine Ecosystems (CREA Mont-Blanc), is well aware of the perils that climate change brings to her beloved mountains.

“I felt torn about going for the record because in some ways, it’s going to encourage more people to do Mont Blanc. And Mont Blanc, especially by the regular route, has become objectively more dangerous with time because of climate change. There’s a lot more rockfall, especially in the GoĂ»ter couloir, also known as the couloir of death,” says Gerardi.

Of the approximately 20,000 people who ascend the massif each year, the majority traverse this couloir, The tricky traverse has gotten worse as freeze-thaw cycles associated with climate change destabilize rocks, causing more frequent falls. Now, .

“ with freeze-thaw cycles tied to climate change. and the phenomena will continue to be less predictable and more deadly as global temperatures increase.

“Then, I thought that because it’s such a well-known and emblematic summit, it would be an opportunity to kind of call people’s attention to some of the changes we’re seeing.”

Living in Mont Blanc’s shadow, the changes are impossible to ignore. Glaciers that used to spill down and fill entire couloirs have now been reduced to ruddy, blunted snowfields. Some, like the famous .

“These are things that you can’t not see when you’re here,” says Gerardi. “Glacier melt, water availability, rock fall, serac fall. It’s been my desire to call attention to these issues through talking about this route.”

The Future Climate of Mountain Travel Is Unstable

Mountaineers in the Anthropocene have had to add increasing patience to their toolset. Weather windows are less reliable and people looking for optimal conditions have to be more patient and flexible. Scientists and mountain athletes alike have increasingly been raising the alarm of what rising temperatures mean in some of Earth’s most extreme environments.

“The Alps, in a lot of ways, are on the front lines, canaries in the coal mine of climate change because it really is warming twice as fast as most of the rest of the Northern Hemisphere,” says Gerardi. “We’re seeing changes at an incredible speed. You have to keep in mind when you’re doing a route like this that there are going to be a lot of things that are not in your control.”

That loss of control is something Gerardi thinks about frequently with her partner Brad Carlson, who is a mountain guide and researcher in alpine ecology.

Gerardi smiles from the summit of Mont Blanc
(Photo: Courtesy of Hillary Gerardi)

“We often talk about how can we still see value in getting out in the mountains when it’s not necessarily based on specific summits or objectives. I think that’s something that people who want to be in the alpine should definitely understand, that maybe you shouldn’t be wedded to a specific route.”

Gerardi sits with a certain level of discomfort, as someone who loves the mountains but desperately wants to bring attention to the impacts that climate change has on them. She is an athlete and human who is inextricably tied to the systems hastening their demise.

“I can’t not care about issues around climate change,” says Gerardi. “The big challenge for me is this tension that exists between being an athlete who wants to compete internationally, and who gets sponsored by brands who want to sell things.”

Mayer says she has continually used her platform as a professional athlete to draw attention to the issues that matter to her.

“When I first got to know her, she was just coming onto the international trail running and Skyrunning scene. So there was a natural period of getting your feet on the ground and learning the lay of the land. Once she was established, she clearly saw the opportunity to use her platform to create change,” says Mayer. “And no one I know walks the walk more than Gerardi. She bikes to work, takes the train, organizes friends to carpool if there’s a long drive involved, and does it all without being preachy. In that sense, she’s a wonderful role model for a way of behaving we all need to emulate.”

Encountering Climate Change from Every Angle

Since becoming a full-time athlete, Gerardi has been able to get more involved in bringing attention to climate issues, giving her time to the environmental working group for and volunteering for a citizen science effort to study air pollution in the Chamonix valley. Gerardi likes to push the brands she works with on their environmental practices. She has also been involved in the development of recycled shoes, discussions around the durability of gear, and sustainability of brands. She says she’s determined to encounter the challenge of climate change from every angle.

“It’s important to take into account systemic and individual actions,” says Gerardi. “I’m not really an either-or person. I am neither going to shame people for taking a plane, nor am I going to say we are absolved of all responsibility because it is the fault of ExxonMobil.”

For her contribution, she’s more focused on solutions. “We need to normalize talking about this and normalize finding solutions,” says Gerardi. “We can all be imperfect advocates, but we all need to do something.”

Mayer thinks Gerardi’s qualities make her an ideal candidate to bring attention to a changing climate. “I am not sure I know anyone who is as smart and determined as Hillary. She is a force of nature, and when she gets a plan in her mind and believes she can accomplish it, all the obstacles are systematically knocked aside, one by one,” says Mayer. It’s an amazing thing to watch and a lesson for anyone paying attention. There’s a persistence that leaves you shaking your head in awe.”

For now, Gerardi is focused on keeping her adventures local and enjoying her accomplishment.

“What has been so rewarding with my FKT has been to, as my husband likes to call it, cultivate my garden. It’s my local mountain and I get to look up at it and, you know, sort of beam with pride,” says Gerardi. But, those who know her say she probably won’t sit still for long.

“Watch this space. She did the Mont Blanc FKT with such style and elegance, you might think that’s a crowning achievement of her outdoors career. And for a lot of people, it would be. But she’s not tapering,” says Mayer. “There’s much more to come. And whatever comes next, it’s going to leave you shaking your head thinking, â€Damn, that is pretty badass!’”

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The 13 Best Hut-to-Hut Hikes in the World /adventure-travel/destinations/best-hut-to-hut-hikes/ Tue, 27 Jun 2023 10:40:04 +0000 /?p=2636857 The 13 Best Hut-to-Hut Hikes in the World

From Chamonix to New Zealand, this expert hiker reveals the most beautiful hut-to-hut hikes on the planet

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The 13 Best Hut-to-Hut Hikes in the World

The merits of hut-to-hut hiking are many: it’s one of the most accessible ways to tackle a multiday outdoor adventure, offers the benefits of backcountry camping—crowd-free sunrise vistas, deep wilderness immersion, and long, glorious days on the trail—and promises the creature comforts of home, notably running water, toilet facilities and a warm, dry place to sleep.

While the U.S. has several well-known and well-regarded hut systems, I’ve hiked a handful of the world’s most famous hut-to-hut trails and can tell you that some trekking systems abroad are worth traveling for. Here are the most stunning, with accommodations that range from rustic guesthouses run by locals to high-altitude refugios to backcountry bunkhouses set amid scenery that will soothe your soul. One thing’s for certain—every one of these 13 trips is a bucket-list-worthy escape.

Laugavegur Trail, Iceland

The author and friend hiking the Laugavegur Trail
The author, left, and friend hiking the Laugavegur Trail (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Length: 33.6 miles
Terminus: °ŐłóĂł°ů˛őłľĂ¶°ů°ě
Best time to go: July to August
Days to complete: 5 to 6

Starting with the splotchy rhyolite mountains of Landmannalaugar, as colorful as an artist’s paint palette, Iceland’s fabled doesn’t slouch on the scenery for the entire route southward. The trail, only open mid-June through September—and even then you’ll encounter snowfields—traverses volcanic moonscape slopes freckled with obsidian and plunges into deep green valleys filled with mirror-clear tarns. Because its otherworldly landscapes and jaw-dropping beauty attract the masses, the five (from $80) tend to book up to six months in advance, though hikers may elect to bring their own tent and camp near each hut for free. Want to trek with a guide or explore farther off the beaten path? arranges a Hidden Trails itinerary each summer that tacks on several obscure lakes and waterfalls to this famous hike (from $3,475).

Overland Track, Tasmania

Tasmania's Waterfall Valley Hut
Closing in on the Waterfall Valley Hut, which has an adjacent grassy area that can be used for camping (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Length: 40.4 miles
Termini: Ronny Creek (north) and Narcissus Hut at Lake St. Clair (south)
Best time to go: December to March
Days to complete: 6 to 7

Though it’s punctuated by a state-of-the-art hut system (think: mud rooms, clean kitchen spaces, and composting toilets), Tasmania’s is rugged, rooty, and rocky, even by American standards. Still, we wouldn’t let a little rain and mud stand in the way of this recommendation; the trade-off are expansive button-grass plains descending into ancient eucalyptus forests, possible encounters with adorable wallabies and wombats, sapphire alpine lakes, and the chance to set off on a class-three scramble up 5,305-foot Mount Ossa, the highest in this Australian island state. Most hikers depart from Ronny Creek and stay in a handful of huts en route to Lake St. Clair and the ferry to the St. Clair Visitor Center, though if you’re up for another 11 miles of tramping, by all means. Plan to pay a total of about $190 for . Looking for a splurge? Check out Tasmanian Walking Company’s six-day (from $2,803), which boasts privately owned huts with fireplaces, local wine, and freshly prepared meals.

Annapurna Circuit, Nepal

Bridge crossings, prayer flags, and incredible Himalayan peaks are some of the sights along the Annapurna Circuit (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Length: 143 miles
Termini: Besisahar (east) to Pokhara (west)
Best time to go: March to April or October to November
Days to complete: Up to 21

The is a breathtakingly high altitude romp around the Annapurna massif, passing through some of the Himalayas’ most soul-stirring scenery as it climbs from lush forests filled with delicate butterflies and past rushing cascades to Thorung La Pass, a lung-crunching 17,769 feet above sea level. Travelers can expect to see myriad important Buddhist cultural markers, too: fluttering prayer flags, centuries-old temples, and intricate prayer wheels. Accommodations are simple and affordable: teahouses with Western-friendly menus and private-room options—just don’t expect a heater. And small villages are now connected via a dirt road that spans most of the route, so making the trek is not the remote experience it once was (and you can hop on adjacent trails to avoid the road altogether). As of April 2023, Nepal implemented a new rule stating that all trekkers must hire a licensed guide or porter to explore the country’s wilderness trails. Experienced tour companies like and offer excellent guided trips, full of history and heart (inquire for prices).

Mount Meru Trek, Tanzania

Mount Meru shrouded in clouds
Mount Meru, a dormant volcano, shrouded in clouds (Photo: Getty Images/Stockbyte)

Length: 43.5 miles
Terminus: Momella Gate
Best time to go: December to February or July to October
Days to complete: 3 to 4

If you don’t have time for a full expedition up Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet), or you’re seeking an epic acclimatization hike before the big journey, Mount Meru (14,968 feet) is a fantastic option. Situated in Arusha National Park, in northern Tanzania, this brief trek boasts abundant wildlife sightings on day one (giraffes, zebras, and, if you’re lucky, elephants) before a steep ascent that affords phenomenal views of the collapsed crater and ash cone. From the summit, hikers can even enjoy panoramic vistas eastward to Kilimanjaro, often hovering above the clouds like an ethereal being. As for accommodations, expect rustic, dorm-style cabins with indoor mess halls and separate lodging for your porters. Due to the amount of wildlife, an armed ranger is required to hike with groups on the first day of this trek, so a guided trip is a must. and are both highly regarded (inquire for prices).

Kumano Kodo, Japan

A typical traditional guesthouse along the Kumado Kodo’s Nakahechi Route (Photo: Courtesy )

Length: 43.5 miles
Termini: Tanabe (west) and Katsuura (east)
Best time to go: March to May or October to November
Days to complete: 5

The , located south of Osaka on Japan’s Kii peninsula, is a centuries-old pilgrimage route and one of only two paths of its kind to earn Unesco World Heritage status (the other is the Santiago de Compostela in Spain and France). Technically, the Kumano Kodo is not a singular route but a network of footpaths that crisscross the deeply wooded region, passing ancient Shinto shrines and temples, edging past misty waterfalls (including the tallest in the country), and wending through tiny villages. The (a.k.a. the Imperial Route) is the most popular way to explore. Skip the guided tours on this one—the Kumano Travel website is incredibly thorough and helpful with bookings—and instead plan to overnight in traditional ryokans, or inns, as you go.

Nahuel Huapi National Park Traverse, Argentina

Argentina's Refugio Frey sit against craggy mountains and on the shores of an alpine lake
Refugio Frey is the only reservable hut on Argentina’s Nahuel Huapi National Park Traverse. (Photo: Courtesy Mattia Molinari)

Length: 25 miles
Termini: Villa Catedral (south) to Arroyo Lopez (north)
Best time to go: December to March
Days to complete: 4 to 5

Soaring, toothy peaks that seem to grasp at the sky, glittering azure lakes, rushing waterfalls, and refugios that resemble hobbit houses… there’s a lot to love about this trek across Argentina’s first national park. Utilize the robust public transportation from the gateway city of San Carlos de Bariloche, and nab a night at —the only reservable hut of the four—in advance. Alternatively, you can hire a respected company like for a guided adrenaline-fueled adventure along steep, rocky ridgelines, with opportunities to rock-scramble and take in the striking views of enormous Lake Nahuel Huapi (from $1,310). Before jetting off, spend a few days luxuriating in Bariloche, surprisingly European and often touted as the Switzerland of South America.

Jotunheimen National Park Historic Route, Norway

Length: 35.4 miles
Termini: Gjendesheim (east) to Eidsbugarden (west)
Best time to go: July to early September
Days to complete: 4

For a hearty dose of towering peaks, deep-cut valleys, and crystal-clear lakes, look no further than through , often referred to as Land of the Giants. Thirty-five miles might not seem like much at first, but this trail is no walk in the park—you’ll be following in the footsteps of Norway’s mountaineering history, sometimes gaining over 3,600 feet in a day as you clamber over craggy terrain (chains are present to aid with grip on the most harrowing sections), making your way between two remote lakes once essential to accessing the region: Gjende and Bygdin. You can book the DNT huts—the video below, of Fondsbu, is just one run by the —in advance and traverse the “fairylands” of Svartdalen solo, or sign on with for a similarly supported route that’ll quench your hiker hunger with delectable included meals (from $4,800).

Tongariro Northern Circuit, New Zealand

The 28-bunk Waihohonu Hut is set at an elevation of 3,773 feet and has a resident warden on-site from May through mid-October. (Photo: Courtesy New Zealand Department of Conservation)

Length: 22.4 miles
Terminus: Whakapapa Village, North Island
Best time to go: November to April
Days to complete: 3 to 4

Unlike the Tongariro Crossing (a day hike which traverses the same eponymous national park), the allows travelers to get up close and personal with the nation’s most notorious volcanic peaks, sans the crowds. The loop circumnavigates the snowcapped, charcoal-hued cone of Mount Ngauruhoe, skirting hissing steam vents, ancient lava flows, and brilliant emerald lakes. Considered one of New Zealand’s Ten Great Walks, this hike is for geology and Lord of the Rings buffs who’d love nothing more than tackling a such a boulder-strewn landscape en route to Mordor. You can opt to through the well-appointed huts (which include bunk beds with mattresses, indoor heating, kitchens, and non-flush toilets), or book a locally led trip like three-day jaunt (from $891).

The Walker’s Haute Route, France and Switzerland

A snowcapped Matterhorn with the twinkling lights of Zermatt, Switzerland
The eastern terminus of Zermatt, with the Matterhorn in the distance (Photo: Getty Images/KDP)

Length: 108 to 141 miles (depending on the route)
Termini: Chamonix, France (west) and Zermatt, Switzerland (east)
Best time to go: Mid-July to mid-September
Days to complete: 10 to 14

Sure, this one winds up on virtually every best-of hiking list on the planet, but if you take a second to Google a few snapshots of the gobsmacking glacially carved valleys, fields full of crocus and blue bugle, and steep summits that jut skyward like granitic witches’ hats, you’ll quickly see why. The (not to be confused with the similarly named ) passes below the summits of ten of the twelve highest peaks in the Alps. You’ll alternate between staying in well-appointed mountain huts and quaint European villages, indulging in fresh pastries and local cheeses between leg-burning ascents. Huts book up well in advance (and require a for booking), or just let an experienced company like or do all the hard work and logistics, while you focus on the scenery (from $6,195 and $3,616, respectively).

Sunshine Coast Trail, Canada

The Tin Hat Hut is set on a bluff overlooking the mountains and lakes.
Set near the top of 3,914-foot Tin Hat Mountain, the Tin Hat Hut is fully insulted and can sleep up to ten people. (Photo: Getty Images/ed_b316)

Length: 111.8 miles
Termini: Sarah Point on Desolation Sound (north) to Saltery Bay (south)
Best time to go: June to September
Days to complete: 9 to 10

Often lauded as our northern neighbor’s best, least commercialized, and longest hut-to-hut trek, the meanders across the British Columbia seashore, terminating some 90 miles north of Vancouver. The journey is a bucket-list adventure for forest bathers and ocean lovers alike, with wonderful opportunities to spot wolves, deer, raccoons, grizzlies, and elk, not to mention pick plentiful blackberries and salmonberries in late summer. Fourteen (with another slated to open next year) are set along the route, and the provides loads of how-to info it you’d prefer to go it alone. Another possibility is a guided partial trek with (from $1,340).

The O Circuit, Chile

A guanaco crosses the road not far from Laguna Amara
Guanacos not far from Laguna Amara (Photo: Getty Images/Christian Peters)

Length: 85 miles
Terminus: Torres del Paine National Park’s Laguna Amarga Entrance
Best time to go: November to March
Days to complete: 11

As one of the premier treks in South America, southern Chile’s O Circuit is a show-stopping option for mountain-loving backpackers who want to put in the big miles when the U.S. is knee-deep in winter. Longer (and more secluded) than its more famous cousin to the south, the , the O Circuit includes the aforementioned route, plus dozens of off-the-beaten-path miles skirting the northern expanse of Torres del Paine National Park. Purchase your online in advance, then plan to get to your refugio (see the sites managed by and ) or camping spot as early as possible, as this trip is incredibly popular. Wildland Trekking offers , if that’s your preference ($5,900).

Triglav National Park Traverse, Slovenia Mountain Trail, Slovenia

Mount Triglav is the highest peak in both Slovenia and the Julian Alps.

Length: 27 miles
Termini: Vrsic Pass (north)Ěýto Lake Bohinj (south)
Best time to go: June to September
Days to complete: 4

It seems like the Julian Alps have been on the tip of every travel writer’s tongue ever since the Juliana Trail made its debut back in 2020. But if you’d rather not blow all your vacation time hiking the full 168 miles through this scenic landscape, through Triglav National Park will give you a taste of the best stuff. Book hut reservations for , , and in advance, then get ready to traipse across craggy ridgelines, limestone escarpments, and peacock-green tarns. If arranging the trek yourself sounds like too much of a headache (and the language barrier can be intimidating), offers a similar itinerary, with an optional add-on to summit 9,396-foot Mount Triglav, the highest in Slovenia ($430).

Sneffels Traverse, Colorado

Yellows blend with green and orange in early autumn over Colorado's Last Dollar Pass
The views of San Juan Mountains from the hut atop Last Dollar Pass are worth the hike to 11,000 feet.Ěý(Photo: Getty Images/CampPhoto)

Length: 29.4 miles
Termini: Telluride (south) and Ouray (northeast)
Best time to go: July to September
Days to complete: 5

The U.S. is home to several well-regarded hut systems, but one stands out above the rest: the . Run by the in the (you guessed it) glorious San Juan Mountains of western Colorado, this route begins at 10,676-foot Last Dollar Pass, above the iconic ski town of Telluride, and meanders between four diminutive, eight-person bunk-style cabins on its way to the gold-rush town of Ouray. Due to its popularity, hikers ($275, including return-shuttle service) through the hut system between June 1 and October 15. Expect eye-catching meadows of purple lupine, serrated sky-high peaks, and verdant forests of aspen and pine along the way.

Emily Pennington has now trekked on every continent, including hundreds of nights spent on the trail in the United States. For big adventures, she recommends bringing a Kula Cloth and a clip-on carabiner mug.

The author hiking near the Braga Monastery of Nepal
The author hiking near the Braga Monastery of Nepal (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

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Our Picks for the Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Destinations This Summer /adventure-travel/advice/where-to-travel-this-summer/ Thu, 01 Jun 2023 10:30:45 +0000 /?p=2633966 Our Picks for the Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Destinations This Summer

Here it is June and you’re still turning over travel plans? Come along with us, as we head out to see wolves, test our mettle on Tour de France ascents, trek across one of Colorado’s most photographed mountain passes, and generally get outside in big, bold ways this season.

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Our Picks for the Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Destinations This Summer

Summer is on. And this is the summer to beat all summers, as millions of American travelers attested over Memorial Day weekend, taking to the roads and skies to kick off the season in record numbers. şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř staffers have plenty of their own exciting getaways planned, including hiking from mountain town to mountain town in Colorado, pedaling and cork-popping in Provence, road-tripping to visit wolves and see iconic high-desert scenery in the American Southwest, and more. You, too, can goĚýbig.

Reveling in Rocky Mountain Highs and Pies

A summer view of Maroon Creek Valley, Colorado, with wildflowers and an alpine lake
Maroon Creek Valley (Photo: Getty Images/SeanXu)

I take full advantage of my birthday each year by forcing my friends—a group not quite as adventurous asĚýme—to come along for activities they’d usually roll their eyes at. This year we’re hiking in Colorado from Aspen to Crested Butte, an 11-mile day trip over 12,500-foot , with some 3,000 feet of elevation gain. (My friends must truly love me.) We’ve tapped one friend,Ěýwho I couldn’t convince to trek with us, to drop the rest of us off and pick us up,Ěýthough that service is also offered locallyĚýby Dolly’s Mountain Shuttle and Alpine Express. While I’m most looking forward to gorgeous lakes, vibrant wildflowers, and expansive views of the Elk Range, my pals are excited to spend a night in the towns on each end. We’ll be fueling up on caffeine and pastries at Local Coffee House in Aspen on the front end and celebrating our accomplishment with pizza and beer at Secret Stash,Ěýmy favorite spot in Crested Butte. The decor feels like an Indian restaurant and a Red Robin collided, with a distinctly ski-town vibe, and the weird and wonderful pizzas are to die for. —Mikaela Ruland, associate content director at National Park Trips

Recreating on the Jersey Shore

Stone Harbor, New Jersey, whose summer sands have drawn big crowds for more than a century
A busy beach in Stone Harbor (Photo: John Greim/LightRocket)

I’ll always be a defender of the Jersey Shore, particularly Stone Harbor, located on Seven Mile Island. This East Coast beach town is home to tons of wildlife, soft sand, and the best seafood. It’s the perfect spot for large families to gather. I’m looking forward to my seaside runs and bike rides along the path that extends the entirety of the island. It’s also fun to kayak the marsh along the bay side or head just over Gull Island Thorofare Bridge to check out the Wetlands Institute. When you’re looking for a respite from the bustle, stroll down Second AvenueĚýto the Stone Harbor Bird Sanctuary. I’ve never considered myself much of a birder, yet I always love walking the sanctuary’sĚýtrails. A mile north is Springer’s, which makes the best homemade ice cream in the world. On summer nights, the line for a cone can wrap around the block. Other can’t-miss establishments include Quahog’s Seafood Shack and Bar for dinner, and Coffee Talk for your morning caffeine fix (it’s the famed establishment where Taylor Swift once performed acoustic shows). —Ellen O’Brien, digital editor

Wheeling About Provence

The Provincial town of Venasque, France
The historic village of Venasque, France (Photo: Getty Images/John S Lander/LightRocket)

At some point in planning this summer’s adventure, I recalled a favorite saying from Oscar Wilde: “It is what you read when you don’t have to that determines what you will be when you can’t help it.” How true. Every morning I open to peruse the latest highlights from the European cycling scene, and most evenings I consult The New York Times’ cooking section for an interesting recipe. Blend those reading habits, add a dash of Francophilia, and—voilà—I find myself heading to Provence. For cool temperatures, zero crowds, and the glorious light of autumn in the Luberon Valley, my wife and I will spend a week exploring back roads and high peaks by bike in the department of Vaucluse. Each morning we’ll stock up at a local patisserie before rolling out of the tiny medieval town of Venasque, whose untouched Gallo-Roman architecture and clifftop views earned it the designation of one of the 126 most beautiful villages in France. We’ll pedal until hunger or a vineyard beckon, with an ascent of Mont Ventoux (an iconic Tour de France climb) as the week’s big goal. Come evening we’ll meander alongwinding country roads in search of a quiet bistro, perhaps in another village, like Carpentras orĚýRoussillon, for a Provençal feast of bouillabaisse or black truffle omelet, paired with a bottle of the rosĂ© for which this region is famous. For dessert we’ll hope for a slice of clafoutis, a traditional flan-like tart loaded with plump apricots or black cherries sourced from a nearby orchard. All of which merits another maxim, this one fromĚýtheĚýlegendary 19th-century gourmand Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. “Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es,” he said, which translates to “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.” Would it come as any surprise that Brillat-Savarin was French, born just a few hours up the RhĂ´ne River from Venasque? —Jonathan Dorn, senior vice president of strategy and studios

Rafting Down the Rogue

A natural bridge along the Pacific Ocean near Gold Beach, Oregon
A natural bridge near Gold Beach, Oregon (Photo: Getty Images/MBRobin)

Every summer my family and I go on vacation where I grew up, on the southern coast of Oregon. Gold Beach, a town of some 2,000 people, is nestled between timber-covered mountains and the mighty Pacific, with the mouth of the Rogue River serving as its northern edge. As an outdoorsman, I’ve always loved going back, but I appreciate it more and more each time I return. There are three amazing ways to experience the Rogue. One is rafting the 32.4-mile Wild Rogue section of Class III–IV rapids, a trip that can be tackled in three or four days; it requires a hard-to-get permit or a guide setup, but you’ll never forget floating through this remote section of canyon. The second way to see it is with , a jet-boat operator whose charming staff grew up in the area and are super knowledgeable about the flora and fauna you’re likely to see, including river otters, black bears, bald eagles, and ospreys. If you have the time, take the company’s Wilderness Whitewater Tour, which stops at Cougar Lane Lodge, famous for its BBQ. The third option, if the bite is on, is to go Chinook salmon fishing in the mouth of the river, preferably with local legend and guide Helen Burns. If you’re staying in town and want to be close to the beach and amenities, book the Beach Pea Suite at the new —it has a glorious soaking tub. Good eats are plentiful in the area, and some of my favorite places are the Barnacle Bistro, Tu Tu Tun Lodge, and the award-winning Redfish Restaurant in Port Orford. For beer, you can’t go wrong with anything from Arch Rock Brewing Company, but the Pistol River Pale is outstanding. You also shouldn’t miss the short hike down Cape Sebastian: It starts from an overlook about 800 feet above the ocean, giving you views for miles in any direction; from there you’ll descend just shy of two miles through Sitka spruce, salmonberry bushes, and ferns to the beach, where waves break powerfully against sandstone cliffs, even during the summer. Check out the tide pools before the climb back out. And finally, if you have kids, don’t miss Prehistoric Gardens in Port Orford, where 23 life-size dinosaur replicas are hidden in the old-growth forest. The quiet and solitude of this moss-covered grove is spectacular. —Will Taylor, group gear director

Roaming Around Historic Annapolis

A drone view of the city of Annapolis, Maryland
Annapolis (Photo: Getty Images/Greg Pease)

Annapolis, Maryland, on the Chesapeake Bay, is where I come from and where I return every year. For one thing, they have flowers—bursting tulip magnolias in rows, and lilacs—in spring when scraps of snow still cover my hillside in Colorado, and now the hydrangeas, snapdragons, magnolias, and peonies should be out, with the locust blooms just finishing. In my friend Molly’s family, the locust blooms are a sign that soft crabs are running. The best time to go is summer, because there are so many things to do. We kids grew up swimming, sailing, windsurfing, and water-skiing. We went crabbing in dinghies with trotlines or by roaming around docks and pilings with crab nets in hand. The historic town (Annapolis was the nation’s capital from 1783 to 1784) is built around two brick-paved circles; the State House, where the Maryland legislature meets, and St. Anne’s Church are set in, respectively, State Circle and Church Circle, to symbolize separation of church and state. Near both is the harbor, where the oyster boats used to dock, and the Market House, housing many concessions, where my siblings and I worked. (I scooped ice cream, gaining a mean right arm.) You can buy crab cakes, oysters, soups, cheese, and fruit there, and walk across the street to a statue of Alex Haley, the author of Roots, reading a book to children; it commemorates the shameful fact that his forebear Kunte Kinte was sold here at the City Dock. You might also visit St. John’s College (established in 1696) and the adjacent Naval Academy. Don’t miss the clam chowder at Middleton’s Café (which dates back to 1750) or the fun scene at McGarvey’s, a tavern where my grown sons now go get beers. On a beautiful day, hike (it is intermittently closed, but you can still walk around the area), looking out at the Chesapeake and the four-mile Bay Bridge, or take the loop trail in Quiet Waters Park on the South River. —Alison Osius, senior editor

Off-Roading in Iceland

The Fjadra River cutting through Fjadrarglufur Canyon located off Iceland's Ring Road
The Fjadra River cutting through Fjadrarglufur Canyon, just off the Ring Road (Photo: Getty Images/Arctic-Images)

My husband and I are beyond stoked: we’re headed to Ireland and Iceland for a two-week adventure. He hasn’t been to Ireland, but I lived there as a kid, so I’ve got that country dialed. It’ll be a whirlwind coastal tour, with a climb up Croagh Patrick, near my old cottage on the west coast. Iceland, however, remains untapped for us both. We love a thermal-springs soak after hard hikes and trail runs, and prefer to dodge crowds and drive less, so this smallish outdoor mecca was a no-brainer addition. We’ll play it fast and loose, but here’s how I think our trip will go down: After we fly into ReykjavĂ­k, the capital, we’ll pick up our rented Dacia Duster 4X4 camper van with a rooftop tent ($900 for five days, it’s tricked out with sleeping and cooking essentials and a hot spot for GPS; for more information, visit ). We’ll hit the BĂłnus grocery store—it’s the cheapest option on the pricey island, according to a seasoned buddy—to stock up on supplies, and then we’ll head northeast on the Ring Road, a.k.a. Route 1, to the fjords, vales, and 4,000-foot summits of the Tröllaskagi Peninsula. Along the way, we’ll take offshoot F-roads (F for ´ÚÂáä±ô±ô, which means “mountain” in Icelandic), summer-only gravel tracks restricted to four-wheel-drive vehicles. By crisscrossing over central peaks, we’ll access remote terrain rich with waterfalls, lava fields, alpine valleys, and camping spots that most of Iceland’s seven million annual tourists don’t explore. We’ll circle back south to scrub away our dirt and sweat at the geothermal Blue Lagoon ($64 for day tickets) beforeĚýdeparting. All told, it’ll be an unscripted, abbreviated blast, and I consider this a reconnaissance mission for next time. —Patty Hodapp, interim digital director

Road-Tripping Through the Native Southwest

 

This summer I’m focusing on road trips, and luckily I live in Santa Fe, New Mexico, a good place to launch from. I’ve been so dismayed by recent delays and cancellations from plane travel that I don’t feel like spending any more time than I have to in airports. Which is fine, because I’ve had a Southwest bucket list that I’m excited to finally make a dent in. Near the top of my list is a guided tour of the Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary in western New Mexico, near El Morro National Monument. The sanctuary takes in both wild and domesticated wolves and protects them for the rest of their lives. Rumor has it that author George R.R. Martin, also a Santa Fe resident, has supported the sanctuary, and some of the wolves are named after his Game of Thrones characters. From there I plan to head west to visit some important Native sites. I want to go to Canyon de Chelly, in northeastern Arizona, and take a Navajo-led horseback tour. Canyon de Chelly, often called a mini Grand Canyon, is part of the Navajo Nation. Evidence of human occupation there dates back 4,000 years. It’s also the tragic spot where Kit Carson forced out the Navajo in 1863. Then I’m going to head to Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, on the Utah border. Also a part of the Navajo Nation, this stunning landscape and its spectacular sandstone buttes show up on my Instagram feedĚýevery so often, and I want to learn about the history on a Navajo-guided tour and experience the awe and grandeur. —Mary Turner, deputy editor and travel director

The post Our Picks for the Best şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Destinations This Summer appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

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Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc: A Beginner’s Guide /adventure-travel/destinations/europe/beginners-guide-tour-du-mont-blanc/ Wed, 15 Feb 2023 11:00:52 +0000 /?p=2620339 Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc: A Beginner’s Guide

Starting and finishing in the adventure-crazed alpine town of Chamonix, France, at the base of Mont Blanc, the TMB is perhaps the world’s most famous pedestrian loop and definitely one of its most entertaining, passing through three countries and their variety of cultures.

The post Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

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Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc: A Beginner’s Guide

This trek has it all: three countries, endless views of Western Europe’s highest peak—15,771-foot Mont Blanc—fresh-baked treats at high huts you stay in along the way, and views of climbers clinging to improbable spires. While downright decadent at times, thanks to the gourmet food and drink en route, the Tour du Mont-Blanc (TMB), 103 miles of hiking that circles Mont Blanc and passes through France, Italy, and Switzerland, is no pushover. It comprises more than 32,000 feet of uphill hiking and descending. It offers gorgeous stretches of warm, summer Alps weather, yet full-on big-mountain storms can still descend on trekkers.

downtown chamonix
The loop begins and ends in Chamonix, and being in that adventure-amped mountain town is half the fun. (Photo: Alpinehikers)

The Beautiful Mount Blanc Region

The Mont Blanc region of the Alps is huge, encompassing 155 square miles, with 60 square miles of glaciers and eleven summits over 13,000 feet. Ten thousand years ago, nomadic tribes gathered here, living off deer and chamois on the land and fish from the rivers. In time, they began herding animals, moving them to higher pastures in the summer, creating the annual Alpine rhythm called transhumance that persists to this day. Those paths created an intertwined network of trails around the massif. In the last 60 years, local communities worked on the ancient routes, upgrading them for modern use by active travelers. In the 1960s, old huts were updated, inns sprang up in the valleys, and the TMB took on its present form.

Starting and finishing in the adventure-crazed alpine town of Chamonix, France, at the base of Mont Blanc, the TMB is perhaps the world’s most famous pedestrian loop and definitely one of its most entertaining, passing through three countries and the resulting variety of cultures. Along with the lively hut scene, Michelin-star dining options en route, and stop-dead-in-your-tracks views, you may also see the world’s best trail runners breezing past.

man hiking alps
A visiting American, Greg Williams, enjoys toting a light daypack on the TMB. Last July, he and his wife, Carolyn, did a highlights tour: six days, 65 miles, and 22,270 feet of elevation gain. (Photo: Carolyn Watt Williams)

Getting to Know the Tour du Mont Blanc

I began hiking and trail running the Tour du Mont-Blanc 15 years ago in sections—a day here, two days there. It wasn’t until seven years ago that I did the full loop in one continuous push. It was September 1, 2017, and 2,200 fellow trail runners joined me in the 14th edition of the iconic Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc, or UTMB. Held each year at the end of August and easily the world’s most famous trail race, UTMB is one part of the reason the TMB (walking version) has become so popular.ĚýĚý

I’ve lived in Chamonix full-time for five years, spending five summers here before that, and founded and am part-owner of the trail-running tour company The UTMB race is intense. Far more typical is the leisurely eight-day TMB hike I took with my two brothers and a cousin last September. My relatives booked a total of 11 days for the trip, which included their arrival and departure days, a day in Chamonix to adjust to Central European Time, and a rest day in Courmayeur.

map of tour du mont blanc
See the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) trail map on Gaia (Gaia is owned by şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Inc., the company that owns şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř.)

We meandered around the range, napping in alpine meadows, chatting with shepherds, and snarfing up lunches at huts and inns all along the way. We started around 8:30 each morning, right after the continental breakfasts, and dropped our bags with the hotel for the pre-arranged transport to the next destination. (Pro tip: Skipping the baggage transfer to save money is a dubious trade-off. You do not want to lug the extra weight over the high passes.) With an organized start time, we’d arrive at our next destination mid-afternoon, usually in time for a shower, a post-hike beer, and a nap before dinner. Our weather was perfect: blue skies, temperatures in the 60s, and a light breeze, day after day.

I’ve hiked or run the TMB a dozen times now, and here’s my advice for beginners on how to do it right.

alpine hut
The TMB for many combines huts and hotel lodgings. This is the Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini, in the Italian Alps. (Photo: Amy Beidleman)

Tour du Mont Blanc Guide – Quick Links

How to get to the TMB | How Hard is it to Hike the TMB? | How Long Does it Take to Hike the TMB? | The Best Time of the Year to Hike the TMB | How to Book Your TMB Trip | Is the Trail Easy to Follow? | Lodging Options Along the TMB | Should I Plan My Own Trip or Go With A Guide? | Do I Have to Hike the Whole TMB Trail? | What to Pack to Hike the TMB | TMB Etiquette | The Best Piece of Advice of All |Ěý Resources

1) How to Get to the TMB

Nearly all TMB travelers fly in and out of Geneva, Switzerland, which is just about 90 minutes from Chamonix, the traditional start and end point of the loop. There are multiple shared shuttle services, which typically cost about €35 (about $38 as of August 2024) and should be scheduled in advance. At Run the Alps, we use Mountain Dropoffs. They’re reliable, they track your flight, and their drivers are well trained and always courteous.

2) How Hard Is It to Hike the TMB?

Most fit hikers will find the TMB to be within their abilities, especially if they opt for a luggage transport service between huts and hotels, leaving them to hike with light daypacks. But the trail is a big undertaking and can be challenging.

The longest day is usually about 20 miles, with roughly 4,500 feet of climbing and descending. Most days total around 15 miles, with between 4,000 and 5,000 feet of climbing. The highest point you’ll reach is 8,323 feet, and you work naturally up to it, so altitude is generally a non-issue, though concern about it is a common misconception about the TMB.

The trail goes through three countries, over 11 mountain passes, and by many tables full of pastries. This image shows Val Ferret on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. (Photo: Alpinehikers)

A lot of hikers and trail runners will find the TMB to have a good bit of “vert” (vertical gain) along the route. There are almost no truly flat sections, and depending on how you plan your route, you can do up to or even more than 33,000 feet of climbing during the trip. To train beforehand, find a nearby hill, get the pack you intend to use, load it up, and head uphill. If your local terrain doesn’t lend itself to TMB training, sign up for a few months at a gym with treadmills that go up to a 20 percent incline, and start hiking, doing your best to ignore the looks of gym rats when they see your pack on your back.

Old-school hiking boots are fine but, increasingly, TMB hikers are switching to sturdy trail-running shoes, from brands like Hoka, Salomon, or Merrell. No matter what you bring, wear them in well in advance—which means a few weeks of daily use, then at least a half dozen hikes, to make sure they are broken in and fit comfortably.

deck dining alps
A deck with a view: Mary Gorman, Pam Ranger Roberts, Joanne Kneafsey Gilbert, and Amy Beidleman have lunch at Refuge de Bellachat, near Chamonix. The visiting American women did the TMB together last September. (Photo: Jeanne Wadsworth)

3) How Long Does It Take to Hike the TMB?

Depending on your jet-lag coping skills and your interest in rest days, plan on anywhere from a week to 12 days. The TMB breaks down nicely into village-based stops, and the most common itinerary looks something like this: Chamonix, France (add a rest day in for the day after you arrive); Les Contamines, France; Les Chapieux, France; Courmayeur, Italy (add a rest day in here); La Fouly, Switzerland; Champex-Lac, Switzerland; Trient, Switzerland; back to Chamonix (add in a rest day or two here before flying out). Bingo, that’s the loop.

4) The Best Time of Year to Hike the TMB

Be forewarned: midsummer is busy. The trail is getting popular. Even before COVID, there was a notable uptick in TMB usage, and last summer saw by far the biggest visitor numbers yet. An estimated 200,000 hikers, mountain bikers, and trail runners travel some sections of the TMB each year.

As of now, no permit is required to hike it, but you do have to book huts and hotels. The regional government has been talking with several nature reserves through which the TMB passes about implementing a permit system. Initially, at least, these permits would be both free and unlimited. The goal is to use the registration process to educate guests and track user numbers better—and hopefully to mitigate crowds.

woman on trail in alps
Pam Ranger Roberts on the TMB last September, shown here in the Aosta Valley of Italy (Photo: Amy Beidleman)

As a result of the surge in use, the gens du pays—the local people who live and work along the TMB—are scrambling 24/7 during July and August. If you must go then, you’ll need to plan well in advance to secure bookings and will pay top dollar. Many tour operators stop taking midsummer reservations for the TMB by mid-winter.

If you have a flexible schedule, I’d suggest booking during the second half of June, or after the UTMB race at the end of August, when things quiet down again.

In the shoulder seasons of June and September, bookings will be easier and refuge staff will have more time to visit with guests and perhaps even share a beer. On the front end of the shoulder season, the last two weeks of June, high passes might still be holding onto their snowfields, and you’ll need to use caution if the slopes are frozen solid. Bring hiking poles with carbide tips and microspikes for traction, and always check conditions locally with tourist offices before striking off.

The September shoulder season is arguably better, thanks to snow-free passes and good odds of blue skies. Most refuges and public transportation are open and running until about mid-September. This late season on the TMB is a wonderful time, with fewer crowds and a bit more wildness. Warmer gear is a must, though, as nighttime temperatures drop to the 50s and lower, and be aware that snowstorms might shut down travel for a day.

September on the trail, Saint Gervais-les-Bains, France (Photo: Amy Beidleman)

July and August are the high season. If that’s your vacation window, booking a year ahead will help you get the hotel you want. (Pro tip: Ask your hotel to pack a bag lunch for you the night before, so you can enjoy lunch from a quiet pasture, rather than waiting to place an order with overworked hut staff.) Huts usually don’t allow picnicking at their facilities, but if you pass by before or after the lunch rush, you can always enjoy a cafe au lait with the view.

Even if it’s busy, it’s still the TMB. If you don’t mind sharing vistas with fellow travelers, the fundamentals are pretty darned spectacular. You’ll need a thesaurus when texting home, because hackneyed travel adjectives like spectacular, stunning, amazing, and jaw-dropping will all sneak into your writing. For once, they won’t be overstatements.

5) How to Book Your TMB Trip

You can set up the whole circumnavigation yourself, go with a guide, or use a tour operator to book everything in advance for you. Whatever you choose, set things up as far ahead as possible. “You need to be planning 10 months in advance to secure space if you want to get into all the hard-to-book places,” says Troy Haines, owner of Alpinehikers, a guided and self-guided hiking tour operator that has been leading trips on the TMB for two decades.

There is good news, though, for those with an open approach. “Being flexible in your thinking really helps,” says Haines. “If you have a range of dates that work, or are happy with a dorm one night or a fourth-choice hotel, or even taking a taxi to a nearby village, then there is almost always something we can do to put together a trip.”

Early morning light on Mont BlancĚý(Photo: Sylvain Mauroux/Unsplash)

If you’re planning your own TMB hike and working on the logistics in late winter or spring for the coming summer, you may need to get creative in at least one overnight destination and possibly several. Look for hotels and inns in adjacent villages, and schedule Taxi Besson, a service that gives hikers rides to and from trails, to meet you at a specific location and time and return you to the trek the following morning. Places that traditionally get booked out along the trail include: Les Chapieux, France, and La Fouly and Trient, Switzerland. Instead, taxis can take you to the Savoie town of Bourg St. Maurice or quiet, atmospheric villages like Beaufort or Arêches. If La Fouly is full, take the Swiss Post bus to Orsieres and then Champex-Lac, skipping ahead a day. If Trient is full, look to Finhaut, Switzerland, or Vallorcine, France. Consider the switch-ups an adventure, and a chance to explore villages a bit farther afield.

6) Is the TMB Trail Easy to Follow?

Whenever you go, the TMB is one of the easiest trails in the world to follow. No matter whether you’re hiking in France, Italy, or Switzerland, the signage is clear, with distances marked. (Predictably, Switzerland wins for best and most accurate signs.) Many junctions are named, with elevations shown on the signposts. The TMB trail itself is well-worn, so even if visibility is poor, you should have no problem staying en route.

trail signs
The trail, leading through three countries, is well-signed and easy to follow. (Photo: Alpine Huts)

7) Lodging Options Along the TMB

There may be no multi-day trek in the world that offers such an array of overnight options. Some guests are rolling out sleeping bag liners in shared dorm space, while others are sipping pricey Burgundy wines amid the five-star, red-carpet treatment at high-end hotels in Chamonix, Courmayeur, and Champex-Lac. (See the Resources section below for my favorite hotel options along the route.)

For those looking for a sky filled with thousands of stars, camping is an option, but with the recent proliferation of tents popping up around the range, it’s increasingly frowned upon by many of the guides on the trail and staff at nearby huts. If you want to camp, follow good Leave No Trace practices and be as unobtrusive as possible. Regulations vary widely along the TMB. Camping is usually permitted outside of nature refuges after sunset and before sunrise. If you’re overnighting near a hut, drop in during the afternoon and ask permission of the hut caretaker or guardian. Commercial camping businesses exist in all of the key towns around the TMB. Because of the convenient alpine villages sprinkled around the route, however, the TMB is a great choice for anyone who wants to leave the tent and camp stove at home.

Because the TMB passes through three countries, camping regulations along the trail vary. Below is a quick overview of the regulations.

In France, camping is allowed under the following conditions:

  • In the proximity of a refuge, with the permission of the guardian.
  • şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř of the Contamines nature reserve, you can pitch a tent between sunset and sunrise (7 P.M. – 9 A.M.). In the Contamines nature reserve, you must pitch your tent in the designated area near the Refuge de la Balme.

In Italy:

  • Camping is not allowed under 2500m of altitude.
  • In the Val Veny and Val Ferret zones, camping is only allowed in a designated campsite.

In Switzerland:

  • Camping is allowed above tree level, but not within nature reserves.
flowers and town
Les Contamines, one of the stops along the way (Photo: Alpinehikers)

8) Should I Plan My Own Trip (DIY), Self-Guide, or Go With a Guide?

A) DIY

If you’re a planner, the TMB is made for you. You’ll get to cruise around on hotel websites in three countries, poring over photos of standard, superior, and deluxe rooms.

Stephanie Lefferts, the tour manager at my company, Run the Alps, who works with more than fifty hotels, has three tips for DIYers:

  • Book directly through a hotel’s website, if possible. You’ll often get a better rate and terms, and more money goes to the hotels, which are often family run.
  • When in doubt, go for the half-board option, which includes dinner. As Lefferts points out, “It’s really nice to walk downstairs for dinner after a long day on the trail and not have to wander the town searching for somewhere to eat.”
  • You guessed it: “Book early!”

Over the years, a number of planning sites have emerged for the DIYer–see our suggestions below and grab a copy of the venerable TMB bible, by Kev Reynolds. The most recent edition was released in 2020. Be sure to get the IGN Tour du Mont-Blanc map as well.

dining room in alpine hotel
Chamonix is one of the world’s great centers of mountaineering and its history. Shown here is Maison Carrier in Chamonix. (Photo: Alpinehikers)

B) Find an Outfitter Who Sets Up Self-Guided Trips

This means that a company will book everything for you in advance so that all you have to do is show up and hike. Most TMB outfitters know the better inns and hotels along the route. And if you need to spend a night off the trail, they’ll schedule taxi transport for you. You’ll also get route descriptions for each day along with supporting materials that can save hassle and confusion. Most companies will also arrange for transport to and from the airport and baggage transfer during your hiking days.

alpine lake and boardwalk trail
Part of the hike by Lac Blanc, through the Aiguille Rouges (Photo: Alpinehikers)

C) Go With a Guide

In the Alps, so-called “middle mountain” guides (meaning hiking rather than climbing guides) are a common sight, leading hikers and trail runners along paths throughout the region. The English designation is called IML, for International Mountain Leader. In French, it’s accompagnateur for a male guide and accompagnatrice for a woman. Guides in the Alps go through a rigorous training and testing process, and their knowledge runs deep on topics from mountain safety to flora and fauna to local customs and more. The additional cost of going on a guided trip can be well worth it, particularly if you’re busy and would like to just show up and follow a competent and friendly leader.

If you’re going on a guided trip, be sure to confirm that your company uses only licensed guides. Mountain police, Europe’s equivalent of a forest ranger toting a police badge, often check a guide’s paperwork, and more than one hapless group has had its TMB trip stalled by the presence of non-licensed guides.

If you use a commercial company for either a guided or self-guided tour, remember that not all companies offer the same tier of service. The cost difference can be thousands of dollars, and your overnight accommodations might range from a stuffy dorm room to a 600-thread-count king-sized bed with a mountain-view terrace. Read the fine print carefully to see what costs are covered, and if items like airport shuttles and in-country transport are included on your way back.

The Miage Valley above Les Contamines is one of the TMB’s quieter corners. (Photo: Alpinehikers)

9) Do I Have to Hike the Whole TMB?

The TMB is well set up for hikers with limited time. Transportation around the region is relatively straightforward. There are multiple buses each day between Chamonix and Courmayeur through the Mont Blanc tunnel, and France’s SNCF passenger trains coordinate with Switzerland’s SBB rail system, which in turn dovetails with the country’s Postbus system. All of which means, getting around is easy. If you’re short on time, try some day hikes. These are my places to stay for dramatic day hikes around the region: Chamonix, Courmayeur, and Champex.

10) What to Pack For Your TMB Hike

Most summer days on the TMB are luxurious, with zephyrs rustling the pastures, blue skies, and great hiking temperatures. But any given day can be downright brutal. Hope for the best, but be ready for the worst. Here’s a typical packing list:Ěý

  • Warm and waterproof clothing for cold days, including a waterproof jacket and pants, a thermal top, and hat and gloves.
  • Dry bags or a waterproof cover for your pack.
  • Hiking boots or sturdy trail running shoes. Go for at least a few long hikes beforehand to make sure they are a good fit.
  • Hiking or trail-running poles are a common sight on the TMB, and for good reason. The slight shifting of weight from legs to arms will reduce fatigue later in the day, and the third point of contact will make steep terrain safer.
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen.
  • A large water bottle or hydration pack that can hold at least two liters.
  • First-aid kit including a mix of bandages and blister aids.
  • About 200 euros, even though many of the mountain stops and most mountain refuges accept cards.
  • A cell phone with an international plan. It’s a good idea to store the emergency numbers in your contacts. In France and Italy, the number is 112. In Switzerland, it’s 114. Calls to emergency numbers are free. Rescue fees vary from free to pricey throughout the Alps. Here’s on the details. (TLDR? Get a membership in the Swiss nonprofit REGA, make sure your health insurance is up-to-date, and buy travel insurance from a reputable company, like IMG.)
  • Bring your ATM card–there are ATMs at every stop except Les Chapieux and Trient. Just call your bank first to make sure the card is authorized for France, Italy, and Switzerland. Though Switzerland uses the Swiss Franc, euros are generally accepted around the loop.
  • If you’re staying at mountain huts, most require a sleeping bag liner, which you’ll use in combination with wool hut blankets that won’t see a good washing until the close of the season. You can buy cotton, which has more bulk, or silk, which costs more but stuffs into about the size of a rolled washcloth.
  • While most huts provide Crocs or flip-flops for indoor use, it’s not a bad idea to bring your own that are actually comfortably sized to you instead of whatever is in the hut shoe cubby.
  • Ear plugs if you’re sharing overnight accommodations.

 

mont blanc
Mont Blanc, the top of Western EuropeĚý(Photo: Boris Dunand/Unsplash)

11) Learn the TMB Etiquette

As with many long-distance paths, there are rules to the road. On the TMB, they are well-established, thanks to the long history of the route.

At refuges:

  • Shoes and poles in the boot room only.
  • In shared rooms, try to be quiet at night, and don’t turn the light on if someone is sleeping. Turn cell phones off or to Airplane Mode.
  • Use an indoor voice. (Yes, it really is true: Americans tend to be among the loudest.)
  • A small tip is appreciated–perhaps a euro for a snack and cafe au lait, a few euros for a meal.

On the trail:

  • Remember that there might be bikers, runners, or faster walkers who want to get past, so be ready to step aside.
  • Share a “Bonjour” when passing fellow hikers.
  • Please, don’t play music out loud. Grab the earbuds.
  • Evidence is starting to mount that swimming in lakes has a negative impact on their ecosystems. Please minimize or avoid it, especially if you’re wearing sunscreen.

12) My Top TMB Advice: Treat Yourself!

The TMB has to be the hiking path with some of the tastiest aid stations en route. While you’ll burn over 4,000 calories a day, if you’re not adding it all back, well, you’re missing out.

This is ten years of in-depth culinary research in a handful of short paragraphs, but rest assured, the pleasure was all mine.

On one of my first TMBs, circling the Mont Blanc massif in four days as part of a trail-running mini-vacation, our group kept a literally running tally of the number of tartes aux myrtilles (blueberry tarts), pain au chocolates, and cafe au laits we had. We quickly lost track, though.

Go ahead, you’ve earned the pastries. Left to right: Julia Maxwell, Georgina Fitzgerald, Doug Mayer, and Emily Castles go in. (Photo: Run the Alps)

My brothers, cousin, and I repeated a version of this game last fall. In fact, counting tartes and other treats is a classic TMB tradition. Thanks to those baked mountain goodies and endless big views, the miles pass quickly. Before you know it you’ll be back on the steps of the centuries-old St. Michel Church in Chamonix, celebrating with beers from Big Mountain Brewery and looking forward to a fromage-filled celebratory dinner at La Caleche.

Here are some of my favorite stops en route.

  • Refuge Plan de l’Aiguille: While not on the TMB, this high hut above Chamonix is well worth a visit. So, book a jet-lag recovery day in Chamonix, and head here for a TMB warm-up. Claude and his staff make what is widely considered the best tarts in the Chamonix valley, fresh each morning. The typical spread is wild blueberry, strawberry, lemon, and raspberry. (Take in the Midi tram, the world’s second-longest, on the same day.)
  • Chalet Miage: Stop for lunch at this rustic mountain farm before the French village of Les Contamines and order anything on the menu. Really. It’s that simple.
  • Alpage Ville de Glacier: If you’re not taking Col des Fours, look for this farm just outside the hamlet of Chapieux and stock up on local Beaufort and SĂ©rac cheese directly from the farmer.
  • Refugio Elizabetta: Time your wanderings to stop in for their traditional Italian lunches like hearty bowls of polenta, and all for a good price.
  • Courmayeur, Italy: This TMB stopover town has a wide array of great restaurants, so schedule a rest day here. Get a gelato or an ice cream at the Gelateria in the center of town, and sneak down a side alley for focaccia at Pan per Focaccia. Pro tip: ask your hotel to book a taxi to the QC Terme roman spas at PrĂ©-Saint-Didier. If you end up wanting more, the same company has a new facility waiting to ease the end-of-trip aches and pains in Chamonix.
  • Alpage de Bovine: Switzerland is all about comfort food, and the grated potato and cheese RostĂŻ at this high Swiss farm stop will persuade you that all is well with the world. Save room for an apricot or blueberry tart.
  • Refuge Col de Balme: Wrap your hands around a thick hot chocolate as you look down to Chamonix and eye the last ten miles of your loop around Mont Blanc.

Santé et à bientôt!

alpine hut
A sign at the Refuge de Miage reads, “No wifi. Talk to each other.” The spirit applies to the full tour, a great place to meet other hikers from around the world. (Photo: Alpinehikers)

13) Important Resources for the Tour Du Mont Blanc

Helpful Sites for DIY Planners

is a one-stop online planning site, with links to key huts and other services along the way.

offers paid support for DIYers who want a hand building their own trips.

: Taxi Besson is the go-to company to shuttle your bags around the TMB. They work with most major hotels in the region. Drop your bag by in the morning after breakfast, and it will be waiting for you at your next hotel that evening. (In my outfit’s ten years of using them, they’ve never once failed us.) Pro tip: Follow the weight-limit guidelines, ask at the hotel desk exactly where to leave your bag, and don’t tie anything to the outside.

transfers between Geneva and the Chamonix valley.

: With nearly 37,000 members, this Facebook group is lively, filled with useful information. Ignore the know-it-alls, and you’ll find tons of good intel.

If you’re going on your own, Emily Geldard, a longtime resident and the Run the Alps assistant manager, has created a handy summary of options to shorten many of the days, in the event of inclement weather or injury. “” offers information on bail-out options, plus a list of ways to extend each day if yesterday’s pastries have you energized for bonus terrain.

Outfitter Recommendations for Guided and Self-Guided Hiking

, , and are highly regarded tour operators who offer both guided and self-guided trips on the TMB.

Outfitter Recommendations for Guided and Self-Guided Running

is an Alps-based company with U.S. roots. (The author is the founder and part owner.) Run the Wild and Tracks and Trails are two other good options.

If You Need a Doctor

If you have an emergency, use the emergency numbers or ask your accommodation host to call a local doctor. Les Contamines, Courmayeur, and ´ˇ°ů˛µ±đ˛ÔłŮľ±Ă¨°ů±đ have pharmacies.

Apps

A handful of apps make the TMB easier to navigate, including which also contains weather data. is often used for weather.

(Gaia is owned by şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Inc., the company that owns şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř.)

Learn Some of the Local Language

French / Italian:

  • Hello = Bonjour / Ciao
  • Thank you = Merci / Grazie
  • Breakfast = Petit Dejeuner / Colazione
  • How much is it? = Ça coĂ»te combien? / Quanto costa?
  • Do you speak English? = Est ce que vous parlez anglais? / Parla inglese?
  • Where are the toilets? = OĂą sont les toilettes? / Dove e’ il bagno?
  • This way? = Par ici? / Da questa parte?
  • It hurts here = Ça me fait mal ici / Sono ferito qui
  • Mountain hut = refuge de montagne / rifugio di montagna
  • I need help = J’ai besoin d’aide / Ho bisogno di aiutoĚý
mountain valley town
The town of Chamonix from high trails (Photo: Susan Flynn/ Unsplash)

Great Side Trails to Explore

One of the best features of the TMB is that there are plenty of side trails to hike along the way. You can truly do your own hike, mixing the standard route with wilder variants, or hopping a local bus to skip sections. Hiking what we call a variant trail can be a great way to get away from crowds and find solitude. Here are a few of my favorites.

  • France: Col de Fours: from Les Contamines to the must-see rustic lodge of Les Mottets, this is a direct variant that detours around Les Chapieux. It is a mere 350 feet of additional climbing–though much more technical than the norm–and a bit more than a mile shorter. It includes one of the highest points on the TMB (which should be avoided in bad weather). Best of all, there’s a high likelihood of seeing ibex.
  • Italy: Val de Sapin: From Courmayeur to Bonatti Refugio, this adds an additional 1,300 feet of climbing and about a mile of distance. It is a wild and quiet valley, and you are likely to see ibex.
  • Italy into Switzerland: Petit Col Ferret: Next to the Grand Col Ferret, this is an alternate route to La Fouly. It is the same distance and elevation, but the rocky descent is more technical. The trail is much quieter than the traditional route.
  • Switzerland: FenĂŞtre d’Arpette: from Champex to Trient, this variant adds about 1,300 feet of elevation, and is a bit less distance, but it is a lot more technical and time-consuming. Because of the high altitude and slippery rock, it should be avoided in bad weather and certainly during the early season. The route’s steep and icy snowfields linger into early summer and have led to a fatal slide every few years. The scenery is wild and other-worldly, and the trail is usually quiet.
  • Switzerland into France: Les Tseppes: From Trient to ´ˇ°ů˛µ±đ˛ÔłŮľ±Ă¨°ů±đ, France, this variant adds a few hundred feet of elevation and about a mile of distance. The start is steep and daunting, but worth the challenge. The trail is quiet, and you are treated to wide-ranging views of the Vallorcine valley and Mont Blanc.
endless trail in alps
Orsières, Switzerland, a day from Lavachey, Italy. (Photo: Amy Beidleman)

The Author’s Lodging Recommendations Along the TMB

Chamonix

  • High End: If you want modern and plenty of amenities, Heliopic is your go-to. Want authentic French? Head to the Hameau Albert 1er.
  • Middle: Le Refuge des Aiglons is modern, with a nice spa, pool, and outdoor seating. For something more rustic, head down the street to Hotel Oustalet, which features a large yard that’s somehow quiet, despite its central location.
  • Rustic: La Boerne is located out of town in the tiny collection of chalets known as TrĂ©-le-champ. It’s a ten-minute walk to the local train, which is 20 minutes from Chamonix. There’s also bus service from ´ˇ°ů˛µ±đ˛ÔłŮľ±Ă¨°ů±đ, a 15-minute walk away.

Les Contamines

  • High End: HĂ´tel La Chemenaz. Spacious private rooms and suites, with an outdoor swimming pool and spa.
  • Middle: Gai Soleil. Family-run by passionate staff, this converted farm has been hosting tourists since the 1920s. The private rooms have a cozy, alpine feel.
  • Rustic: Chalet Refuge de Nant Borrants. Set on the TMB trail, a little outside of Les Contamines, this refuge is secluded and traditional. The dormitories are clean, with just six to nine people in each room.

Les Chapieux

  • High End: Taxi to Bourg St-Maurice and stay at Hotel L’Autantic or Hotel Base Camp Lodge des Arcs.
  • Middle: Chambres du Soleil. Family-run, with excellent food cooked by the husband. There are woodburners in the dining rooms, and blankets in the bedrooms made from local wool.
  • Rustic: Refuge Les Mottets. The food is hearty mountain style using local cheeses, and the dining room is decorated with historic farming equipment. A refuge staffer often plays music at dinner time on the player piano in the dining room.

Courmayeur

  • High End: Grand Hotel Courmayeur. Modern and stylish rooms, with an indoor pool and spa.
  • Middle: Bouton D’Or. Traditional, alpine decor, and a fantastic breakfast buffet that is all homemade. The fruits in the breakfast tarts are grown in the kitchen garden.
  • Rustic: Cabane du Combal. A secluded location in the mountains, on the TMB but outside of Courmayeur.

La Fouly:

  • High End: Take a taxi to Verbier and stay at La CordĂ©e des Alpes. Modern rooms with alpine decoration.
  • Middle: L’HĂ´tel Edelweiss. Clean, modern rooms that have been recently renovated.
  • Rustic: GĂ®te Alpage de La Peule. This is an active dairy where you can buy the products, and see how different cheeses are made.

Champex:

  • High End: HĂ´tel Alpina. A husband-and-wife partnership with Michelin-standard food cooked by the husband. The building is small and has a private, family feel.
  • Middle: HĂ´tel Splendide. A historic and grand hotel built in the 1930s. Think high ceilings, stained-glass windows, and creaky wooden floorboards.
  • Rustic: Relais d’Arpette. A traditional mountain auberge on a variant taking you a 20-minute walk off the TMB, on the FĂŞnetre d’Arpette, in a secluded valley outside of Champex. Fantastic views.

Trient

  • High End: Take a taxi to ´ˇ°ů˛µ±đ˛ÔłŮľ±Ă¨°ů±đ and stay at the HĂ´tel Les Grands Montets. Access to a spa and indoor swimming pool. The rooms are cozy and comfortable with alpine deco.
  • Middle: La Grande Ourse. Clean, modern rooms and friendly staff.
  • Rustic: Refuge Le Peuty. Excellent food served in a yurt with homemade, artsy decorations.

´ˇ°ů˛µ±đ˛ÔłŮľ±Ă¨°ů±đ

  • High End: HĂ´tel Les Grands Montets. Access to a spa and indoor swimming pool. The rooms are cozy and comfortable with alpine deco.
  • Middle: With an old standby, the HĂ´tel de la Couronne, newly sold and under renovation until at least December 2023, middle-of-the-road accommodations are thin in ArgentiĂ©re. A good alternative is to take public transport or a train to Chamonix or Vallorine, and double up your nights in one of your last hotels.
  • Rustic: La Boerne. Another traditional auberge that is right on the TMB trail. It is in a quiet, secluded spot with a beautiful terrace. The building is full of character, with wooden beams and bunkbeds.
goats in Alps
Some locals: goats in Trient, Switzerland. (Photo: Amy Beidleman)

If You Get Shut Out of the TMB This Year

Troy Haines of Alpinehikers likes to point clients toward other, quieter destinations in the Alps, such as the Haute Route between Chamonix, France, and Zermatt, Switzerland; Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland; or Italy’s Dolomites. “All of them, TMB included, are simply stunning,” Haines says. “You really can’t go wrong.”

How to Be a Conscientious Traveler

While the are not specifically called out along the TMB, they are excellent guidelines, particularly as the TMB or any other place becomes busier. Learning a few phrases of the local language is always a nice icebreaker and shows respect, and please be patient with busy hut and innkeepers. When passing through the huts, follow the simple protocol of removing and storing boots and poles. Protocols are often posted right inside the doors.

Doug Mayer is the founder of the trail-running tour company . He lives in Montroc, France, 100 yards from the TMB, where he often trail runs with his labradoodle, Izzy. His new book is The Race That Changed Running: The Inside Story of the UTMB.

 

Doug Mayer and his dog Izzy in Chamonix, France
The author and Izzy in their home of Chamonix.Ěý

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