Food and Drink Archives - ϳԹ Online /tag/food-and-drink/ Live Bravely Thu, 06 Feb 2025 03:17:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Food and Drink Archives - ϳԹ Online /tag/food-and-drink/ 32 32 Want to Wake Up in Utah Canyon Country? We Do, Too. /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/ofland-escalante/ Fri, 31 Jan 2025 10:30:33 +0000 /?p=2695121 Want to Wake Up in Utah Canyon Country? We Do, Too.

This lodge is all about its spectacular location, within a national monument and between two national parks. It also has fire pits, free s’mores, and access to endless trails and rivers.

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Want to Wake Up in Utah Canyon Country? We Do, Too.

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn’t it be something to stay there? We do, too—all the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Ten feet overhead in a desert canyon in Utah, a jammed log spanned the gully, left by a recent flash flood. In the next passage in Harris Wash inGrand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, southern Utah, our group gazed up at a tangled brown stripe of debris from the same flood, adorning a green cottonwood tree like Spanish moss.

DeMarco Williams and Meredith Holser in a canyon in Utah
Two visitors, DeMarco Williams and Meredith Holser, enter a passageway in Harris Wash, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, southern Utah. (Photo: Alison Osius)

All our lives we marvel at nature’s power. Here we also appreciated the immovability of geology—rock walls—as our group of nine, all staying in the region atthe complex, at first walked and then arduously wormed through a narrowing slot canyon. When the sides pinched down to only a foot wide, my friend DeMarco Williams, athletic and deep-chested, said from two feet ahead, “I don’t know if I can do this.” He was pinned.

Ofland Escalante, two miles from the town of Escalante, is situated amid the landscape of the national monument and between two national parks. (Video: Eric Vega)

I had it easier, being smaller. As a climber, I’ve been in squeeze chimneys before; they can be awful and claustrophobic, and you just want out, but have to make it happen.

DeMarco pressed on, and something gave, and he scraped through the constriction. I followed, ducking, and emerged into the light, where he waited smiling. At each obstacle, following canyoneering practices shown us by Rick Green, owner of the guiding outfit , one of us waited to help the next person.

wedged log canyon Utah desert
A well-wedged log 10 feet above the sandy floor attests to the power of a recent flash flood. (Photo: Alison Osius)

This trip last August was to the treasure that is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, where friends and I all stayed two nights at Ofland Escalante, an ideal, central base located within the national monument and two miles west of the pioneer town of the same name. (Harris Wash was some 25 miles from town, with much of the drive on a washboard road.)

Not everyone in our group loved our several-hour canyoneering experience. Some cried, and some half-laughed, half-cried. But no one will forget it.

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Toward the end, having split into two groups (one with Amie Fortin of the same outfit), we all convened for lunch in a bowl among blunt buttresses that were once ancient sand dunes, the slickrock around us inscribed with fine criss-cross lines. Sage and grasses waved in the wind, with hardy piñon-juniper trees in clumps nearby. Paiute, Ute, and Navajo tribes once dwelled in this region. So did dinosaurs. We saw no one else all day.

Rick Green, owner of Excursions of Escalante
Lunchtime in a wide bowl: Rick Green, owner and guide at Excursions of Escalante, shares a laugh. The outfit offers slot-canyon hiking and canyoneering outings in the many canyons of the national monument. (Photo: Neil Tandy)

As we all looped back out of the canyon, we scrambled a little, but much of the return was just a quiet, reverent walk through washes and passages. Tracing the undulating wind- and water-sculpted walls, I peered into natural niches like little altars, holding swirls of sediment.

The Lodge

Closed each winter but slated to reopen March 12, Ofland Escalante is located just off Highway 12. Opened in 2021 on the site of an old RV park and drive-in movie theater, the place was in recent years, per the website, a “luxury RV park” known as Yonder Escalante. In May 2023 the new owners added “deluxe” cabins, and last year renamed the place (“Ofland” is for “of the land”). Ofland has varying services and prices, and brings people together in communal spaces.

deluxe cabin with deck and driveway at Ofland Escalante
A Deluxe Cabin has a deck with chairs and a table, and walls of windows.These cabins have private baths, but the others have shared ones labeled “spa quality,” with towels and blow dryers. (Photo: Alison Osius)

The place offers four types of accommodations. I bunked in a Deluxe Cabin, simple and boxy with floor-to-ceiling windows, able to sleep up to four people. Also available are vintage Airstreams, tiny cabins, and campsites.

The central common area draws visitors with a fire pit, picnic tables, complimentary hot drinks, and shelves of books, board games, and cards. Our crew brought over s’mores supplies from our rooms and gathered at the tables for spirited rounds of Uno.

common area at Ofland Escalante has drinks and fire pit
Visitors come and go under the central pavilion all evening, for the fire pit, s’mores, Uno, and old books. (Photo: Alison Osius)

On Ofland Escalante’s 22-acre grounds, you can still enjoy the vintage outdoor “drive-in” theater, where you watch from inside one of nine in-situ classic cars. Other property diversions include a hot tub and swimming pool.

map of scenic highway 12 in southern Utah
Map showing scenic highway 12 and the region (Photo: Courtesy Ofland Escalante)

But the big deal is the place’s location amid the wonders of the Utah desert. The nearby town of Escalante is on the northern border of the 1.87-million-acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and just off the 123-mile-long U of scenic highway 12, which runs between Panguich, 67 miles west of the town, and Torrey, 65 miles north of it. Escalante sits between two national parks, about 50 miles east of Bryce Canyon and 67 southwest of Capitol Reef. Highway 12 links them all.

ϳԹ Intel

canyoneering Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
Meredith Holser sees the light while waiting for a slightly stuck companion. Canyoneering practice means passing backpacks forward out of narrow sections, and also, one person at a time, waiting to offer help to a companion reaching an obstacle such as a wall, jammed chockstone, or tree or stump. (Photo: Alison Osius)

Escalante (and Ofland Escalante) are in road-trip reach of five national parks, four state parks, another national monument, and the vast Dixie National Forest, all boasting a myriad of .

You’re also in the high-elevation desert here. The town of Escalante is set at 5,800 feet, and the surrounding area rises to about 8,600 feet, while reaches 9,000 feet. So ascend gradually and, while you are outside and exerting, pay attention to your water intake.

hoodoos in amphitheatre in Bryce Canyon National Park
Bryce Canyon National Park, southern Utah, has one of the world’s largest collections of hoodoos, slender spires created by eons of erosion. Ofland Escalante is only two miles from the historic town of Escalante, 48 miles (an hour) from Bryce Canyon. (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

Escalante is famous for its slot canyons, and Excursions of Escalante can take you out, set up rappels, and use their guides’ situational experience to avoid dangerous floods. The outfitters gave us packs, helmets, and water bottles, but you should arrive wearing good trail shoes and clothes that take being abraded.

 

A little on-site commentary from a canyon in Harris Wash, the Utah desert (Video: Neil Tandy)

A Utah friend tells me that , a 6.7-mile out-and-back starting 19 miles northeast of Escalante, is her favorite hike ever. It has birdwatching—for hawks and ravens, and she once saw a condor—and “a little of everything” else, from steep sections to sandy patches and a 125-foot waterfall.

two hikers examine petrified rock at Escalante Petrified Forest State Park
Michelle Forsgren of Southwest ϳԹ Tours and Chris Outhier, visiting from Phoenix, examine a multicolored chunk at Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. You can see the ancient tree bark and tree rings clearly.(Photo: Alison Osius)

For me, a dark-horse favorite was also . We hiked the Rainbow section (and added a few other loops), where we saw petrified wood in scattered chunks, from wastebasket- to coffee-table size, with hues of sulphur yellow and iron red but also deep blues and violet. The starts on an uphill past a tram-size balanced rock overlooking Wide Hollow Reservoir, where you can camp, swim, or .

Please do not pocket any pieces of petrified wood. Things in the desert are supposed to stay there. Besides, I’ve , and taking one only brings you ill luck.

Choice Rooms

tiny cabins and vintage Airstream trailers at Ofland Escalante
Tiny cabins on the left abut the fleet of vintage Airstream trailers at Ofland Escalante. (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

My Deluxe Cabin’s outside shower was heaven. The water was plenty hot, and I could gaze out at the sky and the surrounding scrub-covered dun bluffs.

The Deluxe Cabins (from $259 per night) are the most cushy places, the only ones with private bathrooms and their own driveways. Each has a kitchenette and Wi-Fi, a deck with picnic table, and a queen bed and pull-out sofa such that it can sleep up to four. From the cabins it’s a five-minute walk to the main lodge. ADA cabins are available as well, and the lodge has golf carts for transport around the property.

Ofland Escalante Cabins
Ofland offers these tiny cabins and open fire pit, with a sheltered fire pit a few steps away in the central pavilion or common area. (Photo: Courtesy Kim and Nash Finley)

Other options include vintage Airstreams ($175 per night), which sleep up to three people, and tiny cabins ($169), located just paces from the common area. The cabins have front decks and the Airstreams step out to picnic tables and fire pits. Both use shared bathrooms with amenities and open-air showers.

interior of an Airstream at Ofland Escalante
Feeling nostalgic? You can walk back in time into a vintage Airstream. (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

Ofland also has five campsites (from $99, per night). Each comes with a picnic table, grill, fire pit, filtered-water hookup, power, and bathroom access.

Eat and Drink

Pop over to the on-site food truck, prepare your own meals in your kitchenette, or go out for dinner at in the delightfully small and funky town of Escalante. 4th West offers 30 types of beers; burgers, paninis, and nice spicy tacos; a pool table, where my friends played half the night; and a nice local vibe. The evening was cool, so we skipped the outdoor seating, but in warm temps it would be wonderful to enjoy the view from there over dinner.

guest sits at Kiva Koffeehouse patio
Michelle Forsgren enjoys the patio at the Kiva Koffeehouse, with its views of the Escalante River Canyon and surrounding striated rock buttresses. (Photo: Alison Osius)

, 14 miles east of town and located within the national monument, is a magical-looking complex overlooking the startlingly green forest lining the Escalante River. It offers vegetarian-friendly Southwest fare, indoor and outdoor seating, and lodging.

Thirteen miles farther north is in the town of Boulder. The place, which has a devoted following, features ethically sourced ingredients and its own organic garden. The owners practice Buddhist principles and are committed to social responsibility.

At the end of Highway 12, in the town of Torrey, is the family-owned Wild Rabbit Cafe, with an on-site coffee roaster, and vegan and vegetarian options.

When to Go

Ofland Escalante is open mid-March through October. Spring and fall will have you cozying up around the fire pits, and maybe hitting the hot tub. Summer is bound to put you in the swimming pool. All indoor accommodations have heat and A/C.

How to Get There

classic view of Long Canyon
A dusting of snow accentuates the lines of Long Canyon, a hiking destination in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, east of Boulder, Utah. (Photo: Devaki Murch)

The small Bryce Canyon Airport is just four miles north of Bryce Canyon National Park, 48 miles from Escalante. Most visitors and rent a car for the amazing 294-mile drive south and back with its section on Highway 12.

Don’t Miss

Hike to the 100 Hands Pictograph Panel, actually site of three major rock-art panels, via a family-friendly 1.2-mile round-trip off Highway 12, starting from the Escalante River Trailhead 14 miles east of Escalante. Ancient petroglyphs—sheep, deer, a snake—are visible just five minutes along the trail. The trail contours up to an alcove where you see the 100 Hands (more like 160 Hands) panel, and beyond that is the Shaman and Hunter panel, with a bowhunting scene and collection of shaman figures wearing headpieces.

Forty miles beyond Escalante, stop and get out at the Homestead Overlook, at 9,600 feet elevation, to see the tableau of the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument, the Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Waterpocket Fold of Capitol Reef National Park, with their oceanic deposits and sedimentary layers, red and gold desert against the bumpy skyline of the Henry Mountains. Descending, you pass the Fishaven Reservoir and may see some sandhill cranes, before winding through the treed hamlet of Boulder, volcanic rocks and basalt scattered along the roadway.

Details

Price: From $99

Address: 2020 UT-12
Escalante, UT 84726

Alison Osius is a senior editor in travel at ϳԹ magazine and ϳԹ Online. She is a longtime climber and a former editor at Climbing and Rock and Ice magazines. She’s recently written about seeing the Utah desert from a lodge made of glass sky domes; hiking the memorial Storm King Trail, scene of one of our country’s greatest firefighting tragedies; and how to approach traveling to altitude (which starts with: paying attention). Oh, and if you were wondering, here are 8 simple rules for visiting your friends in mountain and waterfront towns.

Alison Osius in Harris Wash, Utah desert
The author in a passage in Harris Wash, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (Photo: Alison Osius Collection)

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The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World /adventure-travel/destinations/long-walks-world/ Mon, 27 Jan 2025 10:30:25 +0000 /?p=2694715 The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World

We’re not talking about big thru-hikes, but extended pathways through glorious landscapes in some of the most stunning places in the world

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The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World

I’ve tackled sections of the Pacific Crest Trail—backpacking, day hiking, and trail running—but to think of taking months off to complete all 2,650 miles of this trail, which climbs mountain passes and traverses remote California, Oregon, and Washington, feels overwhelming. A long-distance walk, on the other hand, feels more manageable, like something any of us could pull off, given some time. They mostly involve days and weeks rather than many months, and are at more consistent elevations.

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I’m not talking about a mountainous thru-hike where you plan out food caches and sleep on the ground. I’m talking about a meandering or purposeful walk that goes on for days, weeks, or maybe months. A big commitment, yes. A physical feat for sure. A mental and emotional pilgrimage of sorts. But not so strenuous that most people couldn’t do it, building up their mileage.

These long walks, on byways and moderate terrain, are more like scenic tours of spectacular landscapes, or adventurous journeys through cities and forests. They are not so much to be completed as experienced.

And I think they’re the most beautiful in the world.

1. Best Urban Trail

Empire State Trail, New York

Empire State Trail, New York, passes George Washington Bridge over the Hudson River
The Manhattan Greenway section of the New York State Empire Trail. This stretch runs under the George Washington Bridge, passing the Little Red Lighthouse. (Photo: Courtesy NYSDED)

It took four years to link up and complete the entire , one of the longest multi-sport pathways in the United States, officially finished in late 2020. The route runs 750 miles across the state of New York, from New York City north to the Canadian border and from Albany west to Buffalo. Three quarters of the trail is on off-road pathways. You can walk on converted rail trails through the Hudson River Valley, stroll beside the historic Erie Canal, or move through wetlands and fields along Adirondack Park and Lake Champlain. Eventually the trail will include a 200-mile greenway across Long Island; construction of the first 25 miles of that section begins this year.

Empire State Trail starts in downtown New York
One end of the New York Empire State Trail is, of course, in Manhattan. (Photo: Courtesy NYSDED)

Pick a section of this largely urban route, which is also popular with bicyclists, and walk it one direction, then hop on a train back to where you started—Amtrak stations are located in 20 towns and cities along the way. Find community with others traveling the trail or seek tips on good trailside lodging or camping from .


Don’t Miss: More than 200 craft breweries dot the Empire State Trail, in an aggregate known as the . Get a brewery passport and pick up stamps at the places along the way to earn rewards like a T-shirt or cooler bag. In the Hudson Valley, spend a night at (from $195), which has cabins, canvas tents, and a cedar sauna just a short walk from the trail.

2. Best Pilgrimage

El Camino de Santiago, Spain

El Camino de Santiago
A walker on El Camino de Santiago encounters miles of green, interspersed with fields of red poppies, on the way to Santo Domingo de laCalzada, Spain. (Photo: Pam Ranger Roberts)

Each year, over 300,000 people embark upon sections of this legendary pilgrimage, on a network of trails dating back to pre-medieval times and roadways that vary from cobbled to paved. The most popular route is the Camino Frances, a 500-mile pathway that starts in St. Jean Pied de Port, France, and takes travelers about four to five weeks to walk, passing through the Pyrenees mountains and La Rioja wine region, La Meseta arid range, and through eucalyptus forests into Galicia and Santiago itself. The Camino Portugues, heading up the northern coast of Portugal is another top choice, stretching between 140 and 380 miles depending on your starting point, and crossing through fishing villages such as the UNESCO Heritage Listed cities of Lisbon and Porto. No matter which route you choose, all roadson the Camino lead to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain, where the remains of the Apostle Saint James the Great are allegedly buried.

12th century bridge of Ponte Maceira, on the Camino Finisterre, Spain
Between Santiago de Compostela and Finisterre (from Latin terms for “the end of the earth”) on the Camino de Finisterre, which takes pilgrims to the Galician Coast of Spain, is the medieval bridge of Ponte Maceira. Legend holds that the bridge collapsed behind the followers of St. James as they fled Roman soldiers. (Photo: Pam Ranger Roberts)

You can walk the Camino year-round—the most popular season is mid-summer—but aim for spring or fall for mild temperatures and fewer crowds, and be aware that many lodges and albergues close in winter ). offers guided walks on the Camino through Portugal and Spain lasting from a week up to 22 days (from $1,436), or, if you’d rather go on your own, has self-guided options (from $718).

Don’t Miss: Once you reach Santiago de Compostela, head to the Pilgrim’s Office for your official stamp of completion, having received a pilgrim’s passport from your entry point to be stamped along the way. Bagpipes will be playing nearby as you enter the gates of the holy Santiago de Compostela.The cathedral has a Pilgrim’s Mass at noon and 7:30 p.m. daily; go early if you want a seat. On , await the ancient ritual of the swinging brass Botafumeiro, or cauldron, which is filled with incense and coal and so heavy eight men are required to move it.

3. Best Waterfront Route

Stockholm Archipelago Trail, Sweden

Stockholm Archipelago Trail, Sweden
The Stockholm Archipelago Trail only opened this past autumn. While traditionally visitors have stayed close to the beautiful capital city of Stockholm and the islands near it, the trail invites them into the outer archipelago. (Photo: Courtesy Henrik Trygg/Visit Sweden)

Opening in October 2023, the 167-mile connects new and existing pathways across 20 islands in the Stockholm Archipelago, the largest archipelago in Sweden and home to over 30,000 islands. To walk the whole thing, you’ll need to use a series of public ferries and private boat taxis. You can also pick a section and just walk a few islands at a time; each has an average of about nine miles of trails. You’ll travel along gravel roads, forest paths, and beaches, and through remote fishing and farming communities.

Along the way, camp or stay in hotels or B&Bs. offers a seven-day, self-guided journey on the trail (from $1,095) in spring, summer, or fall that includes lodging in locally owned hotels, luggage transfer, and daily routes that max out at about nine miles.

Stockholm Archipelago Trail with island, inlet and lighthouse
Sweden is known for its lighthouses, the oldest dating back to 1689 and originally lit with a real fire. (Photo: Courtesy Roger Borgelid/Visit Sweden)

Don’t Miss: On the island of Tranholmen, a celebrated chef named David Enmark opens up his home to diners every Friday night—. Or visit the island of Furusund, which contains about five miles of trail and is site of a famed 19th-century summer resort, now a 16-room boutique hotel: the (rooms from $121), which welcomes guests who arrive by boat or on foot.

4. Best for History Buffs

Lycian Way, Turkey

aerial view of Lycian Way, coast of Lycia, southern Turkey
The Lycian Way is a signed footpath curving around the coast of Lycia in southern Turkey. Parts of it date back to the time of the invading Alexander the Great and the Persians, with their Greek influence. Later, Lycia became part of the Roman Empire, as seen in its many ancient Roman ruins. (Photo: Courtesy Montis)

Traversing the rocky Mediterranean coast of southwestern Turkey, the 472-mile Lycian Way winds through the ancient maritime republic known as Lycia. Mountains rise from the turquoise sea as the route follows old roads, footpaths, and mule trails through long-gone civilizations. You’ll pass by lighthouses, beaches, historic sites like Roman amphitheaters and rock tombs, and lagoons over underwater ruins of sunken cities that can be toured by boat.

Most people take on just a section of the Lycian Way. has five- to 14-day guided tours (from $1,187) that include lodging and luggage transfer, or leads seven-day treks (from $995) with an English-speaking guide. Best to do this historical walk in spring or fall, from February to May or from September to November to avoid the high heat of summer.

Lycian Way over the Mediterranean
The Lycian Way takes mainly old Roman roads and mule trails on the southern Mediterranean coast of Turkey. (Photo: Courtesy Montis)

Don’t Miss: ճܰ’s illuminates Lycia’s ancient capital city of Patara after dusk, making it a magical place to explore by night. Best lodging on the trail: the (from $240), built in 2005 on a hillside, has glass windows, viewing hammocks, and saunas overlooking the Aegean Sea.

5. Best for Conservationists

John Muir Way, Scotland

John Muir Way across Scotland
The John Muir Way, a coast-to-coast trail across central Scotland and up into the Highlands, is named for the American wilderness preservationist and author, who was born here. (Photo: Courtesy John Muir Trust)

Not to be confused with California’s more demanding John Muir Trail, the is a relatively new route (established around 10 years ago) that stretches coast to coast across Muir’s home country of Scotland. This 134-mile walk begins in the western waterfront town of Helensburgh, where quotes from the famed Scottish-American environmentalist mark a commemorative stone bench. The trek ends around 10 days later in the eastern seaside town of Dunbar, where Muir was born in 1838.

Dirleton Castle, East Lothian, Scotland.
The route passes the ruins of the medieval Dirleton Castle, in the village of Dirleton, East Lothian. The castle welcomes trekkers and is a stamping point for the John Muir Way passport. (Photo: Courtesy John Muir Trust)

On the way, you’ll walk through the cobbled streets of the capital city of Edinburgh, along the shores of , and by the Falkirk Wheel, a rotating boat lift in central Scotland. has self-guided itineraries (from $1,827) for the entire route, including accommodations.


Don’t Miss: Stay in (from $417), a restored 16th-century castlejust off the trail 20 miles east of Edinburgh. The trail’s eastern terminus is at Muir’s birthplace, a humble three-story home in Dunbar that’s now a historic and free to visit.

6. Best for Self-Reflection

Shikoku Pilgrimage, Japan

pilgrimage island of Shikoku
The Shikoku Temple Pilgrimage is one of the world’s few circular pilgrimages, visiting 88 temples and other sacred sites associated with the venerated Buddhist monk Kūkai, who founded the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism. (Photo: Courtesy Shikoku Tourism)

This circular walk across the Japanese island of Shikoku visits 88 temples and sacred sites where the Buddhist saint known as Kūkai is thought to have trained in the 9th century. The entire route is about 745 miles—mostly using roads, but also on select mountain trails—and takes around six weeks to walk. Or you can choose just a section.

The traditional approach starts at the first temple, Ryōzenji, in Tokushima prefecture and proceeds clockwise until you reach the last temple, Ōkuboji, in Kagawa prefecture. Many pilgrims dress in traditional attire, including a white cotton robe, scarf, and straw hat, and carrying a walking stick; they also carry pilgrims’ books, to be stamped after worshipping at each temple. leads an eight-day tour of the pilgrimage (from $2,303), where you’ll walk up to eight miles daily with an English-speaking guide, staying at guesthouses and temple lodging.

Don’t Miss: One of the hardest temples to reach is number 21, Tairyuji, or Temple of the Great Dragon. You can ride the tram to reach this mountaintop temple or hike to the site on a steep three-mile trail through limestone rocks and an ancient cedar forest. There you’ll climb a marble staircase leading into the temple gates and visit a bronze statue of Kūkai meditating.

7. Best for Wildlife Spotting

Yuraygir Coastal Walk, Australia

Yuraygir Coastal Walk, Australia
This 40-mile, point-to-point coastal walk traces the old game trails of Australia’s emus. (Photo: Courtesy Life’s An ϳԹ)

The 42-mile point-to-point leads through the beaches and bluffs of Yuraygir National Park in New South Wales. You’ll start in the village of Angourie and follow the sign-posted track, as trails are called in Australia and New Zealand, south to the red-tinted cliffs of Red Rock. Most people take four to five days to do the whole route. Along the way, you’ll spot turtles and whales, swim in the Pacific Ocean, and walk through coastal headlands and the biodiverse Solitary Islands Marine Park.

Spend your first night on the trail camping at the , which is only accessible on foot. Or if you’d prefer sleeping in a bed, book a guided walk that includes shuttles to trailside properties like (from $234) or (from $125). leads a guided five-day walk of the trail (prices vary according to group size and season) for private groups from November to April that includes luggage delivery, boat and bus transfers, national-park fees, and accommodations. If you’d rather go it on your own, you can base out of the family-owned in Wooli, and the owners will arrange for lifts to the trail each day (from $499, including lodging and hiker shuttles).

Don’t Miss: Stop into the beachfront , about halfway through your route, for a sausage roll or pizza. Spend some time at the and estuary, a breeding site for endangered shorebirds including the pied oystercatcher and beach stone-curlew. The trail along the Station Creek estuary is lined with scribbly gum and corkwood trees, and if you’re lucky, you’ll spot an Australian crane or coastal emu.

8. Most Adventurous

Te Araroa, New Zealand

New-Zealand-Te-Araroa
Te Araroa, opened in 2011, traverses New Zealand’s two main islands, connecting old and new tracks and walkways. Some people chose to cover one island rather than both. (Photo: Courtesy Miles Holden)

New Zealand is known for its stellar tracks, and , also called the Long Pathway, is the country’s most ambitious trail project yet. It’s a 1,900-mile journey crossing the length of New Zealand’s North and South Islands, from Cape Reinga at the north end to Bluff at the southern tip. The trail itself climbs mountain passes, crosses verdant plains, and travels through small cities and remote villages. Roughly 2,000 people walk the whole trail each year, taking between three and six months. Most hikers go north to south, starting around October, which is springtime in New Zealand. If you don’t have that kind of time, pick a section or a single island; the South Island is considered the more challenging of the two due to its more mountainous terrain.

While this video shows a Te Araroa thru-hike, some choose a section or decide to hike either the North Island or South Island. The South Island is more remote and considered more difficult, the North Island route longer but with more road walking. (Video: ϳԹ TV)

Before you go, ($34) to receive the latest maps and a Te Araroa walker-information packet. Buy a (from $110) for access to over 70 Department of Conservation-managed backcountry huts and campsites along Te Araroa. The trail also has to help you plan and navigate, and the trail notes for each section give details on the route and where to stay and resupply. Or you can book a guided 12-day trip with (from $8,595) and let the outfit take care of the logistics, including hotel bookings.

Don’t Miss: On the North Island, you’ll climb the extinct volcano of Mount Pirongia and descend to the valley below, where you’ll walk by the glowworm-studded , which are worth a stop; you can see the illuminating glowworms in their grottos by boat. On the South Island, spend a night at the 12-bunk, first-come, first-served near Wanaka, which has stunning views from the porch overlooking the Motatapu Valley and a nice swimming hole in the adjacent creek.

9. Best Way to Explore Indigenous Cultures

Vancouver Island Trail, Canada

hiker and misty lake in Strathcona Provincial Park, British Columbia
Moving through Strathcona Provincial Park, the oldest provincial park in British Columbia, Canada, with a furry friend (Photo: Courtesy Ben Giesbrech/Destination BC)

Vancouver Island, British Columbia, is a rugged and densely forested place, and the 500-mile is among the most challenging routes on this list. The trail goes from the capital city of Victoria on the southern end of the island to Cape Scott on the northern tip, crossing rocky beaches and through lush rainforests and territories sacred to First Nations tribes, including the Songhees in the south and the Tlatlasikwala to the north. The trail is broken up into seven distinct sections, from paved pathways through urban areas to logging roads, hiking trails, and rail trails. Each section takes around five to 10 days to walk—or you can spend two months doing a complete thru-hike. Some sections of the trail are still being completed and not well marked, so plan on some skilled route finding or that’s better delineated. If you’re walking the trail northbound, you’ll end in , where the Cape Scott Lighthouse has been shining light for mariners since 1960.

beach on Vancouver Island Trail, British Columbia, Canada
Exploring the beaches of San Josef Bay in Cape Scott Provincial Park, Vancouver Island Trail, British Columbia, Canada (Photo: Courtesy Shayd Johnson/Destination BC)

Don’t Miss: Book a cabin or pitch a tent at the First Nations-owned , between the northern towns of Port McNeill and Port Hardy. At the center of Vancouver Island, you’ll walk through Strathcona Provincial Park, British Columbia’s oldest park, dotted with high-alpine lakes and jagged snow-capped peaks. The , on the outskirts of the park, has eight seasonal campsites and a sauna.

10. Best New Trail

Camino de Costa Rica, Costa Rica

dirt track on E Camino-de Costa Rica
El Camino de Costa Rica, inspired by El Camino de Santiago, goes from the Carribean Coast of Costa Rica on the Atlantic Ocean to the shores of the Pacific. (Photo: Courtesy Asociación Mar a Mar)

You’ll walk from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the beaches of the Pacific Ocean on the 174-mile-long , or the Costa Rican Way, which was inspired by Spain’s El Camino de Santiago. This relatively new trail—established in 2018 by the nonprofit Asociación Mar a Mar—travels through coffee plantations and rainforests, over the Continental Divide, and among tiny villages that rarely see tourists. Plan on around 16 days to hike the whole thing.

The trip starts on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, in the town of Barra de Parismina, at the base of Tortuguero National Park, known as a nesting ground for leatherback turtles. It ends in Quepos near Manuel Antonio National Park, filled with coral reefs and white-sand beaches. Stay in guesthouses, campsites, and hotels along the way. You will want to hire a guide, as much of the trail is sparsely marked. leads guided hikes ranging from eight to 16 days (from $1,675) that include meals and stays at local homes and guesthouses.

Don’t Miss: In the Orosi Valley, stay at the (from $59), which has private casitas and rooms close to the trail. In the town of Orosi, you can visit Iglesia de San José Orosi, the oldest church in Costa Rica, dating back to 1743, and its Religious Art Museum, and the .

11. Best Paved Trail

Paul Bunyan State Trail, Minnesota

the tree-lined Paul Bunyan and Blue Ox bike trail, Bemidji, Minnesota
The Paul Bunyan and Blue Ox bike trail, ending in Bemidji, Minnesota, is also great for walking. The route connects the Heartland Trail, the Blue Ox Trail, and the Cuyuna State Trail. (Photo: Courtesy Explore Minnesota)

Most popular with cyclists, the Paul Bunyan State Trail is still a great long walk for those who want a paved, accessible pathway. The route begins at in Brainerd and ends 115 miles later at in Bemidji, home to a famous giant statue of Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox, Babe. This is the longest continuously paved rail-trail in the country, moderate in grade throughout as it follows the former Burlington Northern Railroad, abandoned in 1983. You can camp at and Lake , or stay in hotels in the various trail towns along the way.

Don’t Miss: You’ll walk through the town of Hackensack, where every September chainsaw carvers turn hunks of wood into art in the annual Chainsaw Event. The (from $89) in the town of Nisswa has rooms and lakefront cottages steps from the trail on Lower Cullen Lake. In Pequot Lakes, stop into the trailside for a scoop of ice cream.

12. Best for Foodies

Cinque Terra, Italy

the five seaside villages of the Cinque Terre, Italy
Ancient trails connect the five seaside villages of the Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera, known for fresh seafood dishes, fine wine, and more. (Photo: Courtesy Visit Cinque Terre)

Cinque Terre or “Five Lands” refers to five coastal towns—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore—over the the Ligurian Sea, all linked by about 75 miles of hiking trails. The most popular route is the Sentiero Azzurro, known as the Blue Trail, which is less than 10 miles and can be done in a day. You can start in Monterosso or Riomaggiore and work your way in either direction, passing through lemon groves and walking staircases directly down to the sea.

For a more expanded tour, consider five- or eight-day self-guided hiking trips in Cinque Terre, where you’ll stay in curated hotels, dine on pizza and gelato from locals’ favorite spots, and ride trains to reach new trails each day. If you’re hiking on your own, be sure to check the for updates on closures (landslides have closed sections of the trail), and grab a (from $7 a day) for access to the two paid hiking trails—from Monterosso to Vernazza and from Vernazza to Corniglia—and for use of the bus lines within Cinque Terre National Park.

Don’t Miss: Climb the stairs to Doria Castle, a medieval fortress near the village of Vernazza, to see the remains of one of the oldest surviving towers on the Liguria coast. The five-room guesthouse (from $208) in the Unesco World Heritage Site of Vernazza makes for a good midway stop on your hike.

13. Most Accessible

Cotswold Way, England

The St. James Church, as seen across a meadow in Chipping Campden, a market village established in the 7th century (Photo: Courtesy Cotswolds Tourism)

The is a quintessentially English experience, where you’ll walk from the historic market town of Chipping Campden, once a busy center for traders, to the steps of the Late Medieval church of Bath Abbey, crossing through farmlands, country parks, and beech woodlands. Stop and admire fields full of sculptures or study English Civil War sites. This well-marked 102-mile trail can be traveled in either direction, taking between seven and 10 days. has both guided and self-guided walks (from $1,154) ranging from between seven and 12 nights, where you’ll sleep in limestone cottages and guesthouses.

Don’t Miss: Climb the hill to the Broadway Tower, an 18th century tower within a 200-acre estate of parkland offering expansive views across the valley; enjoy afternoon tea at the Tower Barn Café afterward. The trail also passes by , home to some 30 species of endangered butterflies, and , a historic garden filled with seasonal flowers and a lavish mix of Classical, Gothic, and other architecture.

Megan Michelson is an ϳԹ contributing editor and avid traveler who once lived in England for a year and went on a lot of long rambles through the countryside. She recently wrote about trips that may help you live longer and her favorite new backcountry hut in Colorado.

Megan Michelson author
The author, Megan Michelson, out for a walk (Photo: Megan Michelson Collection)

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Proof That Our Food Is Filled with Plastic Chemicals /outdoor-adventure/environment/plastic-chemicals-food/ Wed, 22 Jan 2025 10:00:24 +0000 /?p=2693766 Proof That Our Food Is Filled with Plastic Chemicals

A growing pool of studies finds concerning levels of plastic and forever chemicals in our common food items and their packaging. Here’s what you need to know.

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Proof That Our Food Is Filled with Plastic Chemicals

Chick fil-A used to be my guilty pleasure, especially when traveling. When I’m rushing through airports that seductive red and white sign always calls for a detour and a Chicken Deluxe. Now, thanks to about the plastic chemicals found in food packaging, that sandwich is dead to me. A team of scientists and concerned citizens recently tested more than 300 unique foods for harmful plastic chemicals. My beloved treat sat near the top of the inauspicious leaderboard.

My regular readers know that I have long been concerned with the scary amount of plastic chemicals that we interact with as we go about our daily lives.

A Chicken Deluxe sandwich from Chick-fil-A was one of the many food items that tested positive for plastic chemicals
Would you like a side of plastic chemicals with that? Farewell, beloved Chicken Deluxe. (Photo: Kristin Hostetter)

There’s the black plastic in our utensils. And the PFAS (a.k.a forever chemicals) found in everything from our clothing and furniture to our beauty products and toilet paper, the foaming agents in our toothpaste and laundry soaps.

The list goes on and on. We are a society addicted to plastic chemicals and all the modern conveniences they afford. Meanwhile, cancer rates in people under 50 are . I am in doubting that this is merely coincidence.

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But nothing freaks me out more than chemicals making their way into my family’s food. Who among us could ever enjoy a bite of a Chicken Deluxeagain if we knew it were laced with poison?

I decided to look into what we know about chemicals in food packaging, what regulators are doing about it, and how we can protect ourselves.

Plastic Chemicals Pervade Our Everyday Food

I’ve been seeing pop up in my newsfeeds about plastic chemicals in food. I’ve had moments of paralysis in the grocery story trying to find a decent head of lettuce that wasn’t swathed in a plastic.

A group of Californians felt the same way. Theyembarked on a six-month research project to test common food items—from local grocery stores and take-out joints—for the presence of chemicals that enhance the performance of plastics. Phthalates, for instance, are a class of chemicals used to make plastic more pliable. Think: milk jugs and yogurt cups. Bisphenols are plastic hardeners found in beverage bottles and linings of canned goods.

Grass-fed beef at whole foods was found to be one of the foods contaminated with plastic
Even brands that promote a healthy, upscale image are not immune to plastic chemicals. Grass-fed and pasture-raised meats from Whole Food tested surprisingly high for some plastic chemicals like DEHP and DEHT. (Photo: Kristin Hostetter)

The independent group, working under the name PlasticList, purchased 775 food samples of 312 items. Everything from Almond Breeze milk (currently sitting in my fridge) and grass-fed steak from Whole Foods to Taco Bell chicken burritos and, yes, my beloved Chicken Deluxe from Chick fil-A. They then tested those items for the presence of 18 common plastic-related chemicals that fall under the umbrella of endocrine-disrupting chemicals (or EDCs). Ample proof exists that EDCs cause like cancer, diabetes, and reproductive and neurological disorders.

The is pretty shocking: the PlasticList team detected plastic chemicals in 86 percent of the food tested. “But this doesn’t mean we should all freak out,” says Yaroslav Shipilov, the PlasticList team leader. “Although it was surprising to discover the presence of plastic chemicals in such a huge percentage of the food we tested, in all but 24 specific cases, the items are still safe to eat according to the three major regulating bodies, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA).”

Shipilov hopes that his findings will spawn more testing. He also hopes that the regulating bodies will update their outdated safety limits, which are decades old and often contradictory. “For example, in some cases we have chemicals that have been banned from children’s toys, but not food. This suggests that they are not safe for toddlers to touch, but are fine for them to ingest,” he says.

Are Plastic Chemicals Harmful to People?

Make no mistake about it. A rapidly growing body of evidence proves that plastic chemicals are really bad for human health, not to mention the harm they cause the environment.

To get an overview of the health impacts, I reached out to Philip J. Landrigan MD, a pediatrician and biology professor at Boston College. Landrigan serves as director of both the Program for Global Public Health and the Common Good and the Global Observatory on Planetary Health.

In October 2023, Landrigan published , a wide-ranging report covering the many health and environmental implications of plastic chemicals.

“Plastics have allowed significant benefits to humanity in the fields of medicine, electronics, aerospace, and more. But it’s also clear that they are also responsible for significant harms to human health, the economy, and the earth’s environment,” says Landrigan. “Thousands of chemicals—including carcinogens, endocrine disruptors, neurotoxicants, and persistent organic pollutants—leach out of plastics and harm human health at every stage of the lifecycle, from production to discard.”

For example, Landrigan says, consider the coal miners and oil field workers who suffer from cardiovascular disease and lung cancer. (These workers extract the raw materials that create plastic.)The plastic production workers who have an increased risk of leukemia, lymphoma, and brain and breast cancer. The plastic recycling workers who contend with high rates of toxic metal poisoning and neuropathy. The workers in the plastics textile industry die of bladder cancer and lung disease. And the families who live near plastic production facilities who have increased risks of premature birth, low birth weight, asthma, childhood leukemia, lung cancer, and a host of other life-threatening ailments.

The report says that these harms exceed $500 billion per year in health-related costs in the U.S. alone.

“What’s most concerning to me as a pediatrician,” says Landrigan, “is the risk that chemicals in our food pose to pregnant women and young children. We all need to be more aware of plastics’ threats to human health. And we need to take intentional steps to reduce our exposure and our children’s exposure to plastic.”

Food Packaging Regulations Are Rolling Out–But Not Fast Enough

The federal government has been slow to respond in a meaningful way to the growing body of evidence that plastics in our food system are poisoning us.

Just last week, a group of environmentalists filed a new lawsuit against the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) over the use of phthalates in plastic food packaging. For close to a decade, the FDA has ignored calls to take stronger action against phthalates. We lag far behind the European Union in this regard.

Reporting from suggests that this refusal is due to pressure from the chemicals industry, which would surely suffer in the face of a phthalates ban.

Still, some states have begun to take independent action to protect our food from plastics chemicals.

“States have taken the lead on phasing out dangerous chemicals from food packaging and containers,” says Gretchen Salter, policy director for Safer States, a national alliance that works to protect people and the environment from toxic chemicals. “Our shows that 16 states have adopted 29 policies to remove chemicals like PFAS, phthalates, and bisphenols (chemicals like BPA and BPF)from food packaging. Additionally, Washington state has recently to ban allbisphenols in drink can liners and require disclosure of the use of allbisphenols in food can liners.”

5 Ways To Protect Yourself From Plastic Chemicals in Food

Try as we might, avoiding plastic food packaging altogether is downright impossible. But there are some things we can do to not only limit our exposure to their inherent chemicals (like phthalates, bisphenols, and PFAS), but to be part of long-term solutions that will protect our kids, grandkids, and all the generations to come.

    1. Avoid fast food and take-out. When you can’t, get that hot food out of its packaging as soon as possible to avoid chemical leaching. Even pizza boxes contain PFAS.
    2. Bring your own take-out containers. When dining out, bring a glass or metal container from home for leftovers. And avoid putting plastic take-out containers into the microwave. Although the specific research around this practice is , most experts believe this can cause additional contamination and leaching.
    3. Opt for fresh, whole foods. Skip the packaging whenever you can. For example, buy loose veggies rather than those ensconced in plastic. For meat and fish, buy direct from the counter. Ask for it wrapped in paper, rather than picking up a package from the chiller, where it’s been resting in a plastic package for who-knows-how-long. (Note: even that butcher’s paper likely has chemicals on it, so unwrap it as soon as you get home.)
    4. Ditch all plastic from your kitchen. Yep, you heard me—all of it. Storage containers, colanders, utensils, cereal bowls. Start to replace all of those items with glass, wood, metal, and ceramic. I’ve scored some really high quality replacements at the second-hand stores I love to frequent. And don’t forget the Saran Wrap and Zip-Lock bags. Transition away from those, too, and go with beeswax bowl toppers and silicone baggies.
    5. Speak up! It takes one minute to to create a Global Plastics Treaty. Do it! Another powerful action you can take is to write a letter to your state congress representatives. Urge them to support the Global Plastics Treaty as well as state laws to ban toxic plastic chemicals. Here are to get you started.
The author in her kitchen surrounded by her glass containers and non-plastic utensils
The author with some of her post-plastic-purge kitchen supplies: glass containers and wood and metal utensils. (Photo: Kristin Hostetter)

Kristin Hostetter is ܳٲ’s sustainability columnist. Sadly, she has eaten her last Chick fil-A Chicken Deluxe. But she’s currently working on recreating a healthier version in her home kitchen. Follow her journey to live more sustainably by for her twice-monthly newsletter.

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Outdoor Access in This Town Is Off the Charts /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/davis-west-virginia/ Mon, 09 Dec 2024 11:00:52 +0000 /?p=2690743 Outdoor Access in This Town Is Off the Charts

The place has it all. Points for trying to guess, but you may never have heard of the name.

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Outdoor Access in This Town Is Off the Charts

There isn’t much to Davis, West Virginia (population 581). Its downtown is only a few blocks long. There’s no movie theater, no Starbucks. The entire county has one stoplight. You could feasibly drive through Davis and miss it entirely if you were engrossed in a good podcast.

Davis sits on the northern rim of Canaan Valley, a broad, high-elevation basin roughly 2.5 hours west of Washington, D.C. It’s surrounded by 4,000-foot peaks, most managed as public land, and hubs for hiking, biking, and skiing. But Davis’s best attribute? It’s full of people stoked to be here.

sledding near Davis, West Virginia
Who wouldn’t want to go sledding here, in Canaan Valley Resort State Park, West Virginia? (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

Why I Love Visiting Davis, West Virginia, Year-Round

Some might be deterred by Davis’s lack of sushi or nightlife or community theater or even a Target. But I’ve been going there for 20 years, and every time I visit I’m mesmerized by the town’s bounty. The few restaurants are great for such a small town, there’s a proud beer scene, and access to outdoor adventure is off the charts.

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Just ask Ian Beckner, a Davis native who moved away for college, then bounced around to other mountain towns before settling back in Davis to open a ski shop.

“There’s just so much here—so many trails, such good skiing,” he says. “People usually have to work two jobs to make ends meet”—there are no large employers or industries in the area—“but they don’t care too much about money. They just want to be here. Once you’re here, you don’t leave. I can’t tell you the last time I drove more than an hour away.”

Canoeing in the fall in Canaan Valley Resort State Park, Tucker County
Canoeing in the fall in Canaan Valley Resort State Park, near Davis, West Virginia(Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

The adventure portfolio is exceptionally diverse, considering Davis’s location in the southern Appalachians, a region not renowned for robust winter-sports opportunities. But this particular nook of West Virginia has four distinct seasons. Mountain biking rules the warm months and skiing takes center stage in the winter, thanks to a hefty average snowfall and a trio of ski resorts. And West Virginia gets powder: Lake Effect snow from the Great Lakes on one side, and storms from the Northeast coast on the other. On average, it enjoys more than 150 inches of snow annually. Compare that to the 30 to 40 inches of snow that typically fall on ski resorts in neighboring Virginia.

I can’t decide if I like Davis more when it’s warm or has powder on the ground. I’ve logged countless miles on the valley’s notoriously rocky and rooty singletrack and celebrated epic rides with friends by passing around jars of moonshine. I’ve also floated through knee-deep powder in both lift-served and backcountry glades. Ditto with sharing the moonshine then, too.

The Great Mountain-Biking-Versus-Skiing Debate

mountain biker on the hellbender trail near Davis, West Virginia
Harper Brown of Davis, West Virginia, shreds the Hellbender Trail in the Little Canaan Wildlife Management Area. (Photo: Courtesy Blackwater Bikes)

So which is better? The mountain biking or the skiing? This is something debated by locals.

On the one hand, hundreds of miles of singletrack wind through adjacent state-park, national-forest, and national-wildlife-refuge land. Remember the hardcore 24-hour mountain-bike races that were so popular in the ’90s and early 2000s? They began here, with the 24 Hours of Canaan.

On the other hand, you can be at either of the downhill ski resorts, the 95-acre Canaan Valley and 100-acre Timberline, in about 10 minutes. Each offers more than 1,000 vertical feet of skiing, as well as a touring center that pulls in hundreds of cross-country junkies daily when there’s fresh snow.

“The skiing is what attracted me first,” says Todd Romero, who moved to Davis in 2011, switching jobs from the tech industry to the public-school system and taking a huge pay cut in the process. “When there’s a solid base of snow, and you can ski the trees. It’s amazing. But the mountain biking is like nowhere else. I’ve been to other bike towns, but you have to drive to the trailhead. Here in town you’re at the trailhead.”

The More Some Things Change…

panoramic view from a hiking trail in the Dolly Sods Wilderness Area
A beautiful panorama from a hiking trail in the Dolly Sods Wilderness Area, in the Monongahela National Forest (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

As a Davis outsider, I’d say the town hasn’t changed much in two decades. The mountains surrounding town keep it relatively isolated, as do the serpentine roads between it and larger burgs. Locals say housing prices have skyrocketed and those in the service industry say they have a hard time making rent. It’s tough to find rental data on a town of this size, but in general have climbed almost 4 percent each year since the pandemic. And it’s only getting pricier; according to , home prices in Davis jumped 10 percent in the last year alone, with the average home value sitting at just under $330K. Davis is suffering from the second-home crunch that has impacted just about every mountain town I know of in the past decade. The same thing is happening in my hometown of Asheville, North Carolina.

Beckner says there are now more restaurants to accommodate increasing numbers of visitors (the amount of money the county collects via hotel tax has almost doubled in the last decade, according to the ), and the downhill resorts are more crowded on weekends. But the Davis of today still feels like the Davis from his childhood, he says.

Blackwater Falls State Park
Davis sits adjacent to Blackwater Falls State Park, where an easy hike leads to the overlook. (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

“We’re still a small town. It’s not commercialized,” Beckner says. “We have all these miles of trail, but still only one bike shop. We might have more of an influx of people trying to enjoy the vibe that we all live with, that’s true, but the core value is still what it was when I was a kid. People are here to get outdoors.”

Beckner tells me that his favorite weekly event is the weekly mountain-bike group ride, the epicenter of Davis’s social scene.

“If it’s Thursday night, you know where everyone will be. It feels like the whole town rides together, and then we all go get burritos together, and then we all go to the brewery together,” he says. “You’re mingling with your doctor and your accountant and your kid’s teacher. It’s loud, and it’s always a party. It doesn’t matter what you wear, what bike you’re on, everyone is out enjoying what we have.”

Without further ado, here’s the best of Davis and the surrounding Canaan Valley.

What’s Cool About the Winter in Davis, West Virginia

Skiing and Snowboarding

Snowboarder in powder in West Virginia
Snowboarder rips it at Canaan Valley Resort. People are often surprised to learn how much powder the resorts in West Virginia receive, thanks to the lake effect. (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

Two downhill resorts are minutes apart from each other. , part of Canaan Valley State Park, has loads of blue and green terrain, perfect for families and beginners. More advanced skiers can head for the fun, mellow glades off the black-diamond Dark Side of the Moon, from the top.

aerial view of Timberline Mountain
Aerial view of Timberline Mountain ski area in the thick, and we do mean thick, of winter (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

has steeper terrain and better tree skiing. It also has a high-speed six chair that gets you to the summit in under five minutes, so you can knock out laps until your quads quake. Pearly Glades, closer to the base area, offers steep pitches with comfortable space between trees, but mainly you’ll find tight tree runs all over this mountain, so you’ll need to focus. , downtown, has all the gear you need.

two skiers play some après ping pong at the White Grass Ski Touring Center
Two skiers play some après pong at the White Grass Ski Touring Center, which also has firepits for the end of the day and a nice cafe with delish vegetarian chili. (Photo: Graham Averill)

As great as the downhill skiing is, to me, the is what makes winter in Davis truly special. It offers more than 25 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails and more than 60 kilometers of ungroomed trails that climb and descend some 1,200 vertical feet. This isn’t flat-road skiing but backcountry fun). A dozen warming huts are scattered throughout the system, most stocked with pieces of chocolate. The Whitegrass é and gear shop welcomes skiers with a warm après scene that includes multiple firepits, and Chip Chase, the center’s owner and a local legend, often mills around, sharing stories and his personal stash of whiskey.

Biking

Cyclists don’t have to give up riding just because it’s winter. A local trail builder, , has started grooming more than eight miles of fat-bike trails at Canaan Valley State Park. The place is even a stop on an annual that hits the valley and a few other spots in West Virginia and Maryland.

Ultimate Sledding

If you have kids, hit up the sled run at , which has a magic carpet and a hot-chocolate hut.

How to Maximize the Warm Months in Davis

Hike, Fish, and (Much) More

hikers at the Bear Rocks overlook in the Dolly Sods Wilderness
Two hikers enjoy the vista from Bear Rocks, in the Dolly Sods Wilderness (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

Dolly Sods Wilderness, a small but spectacular 17,000-acre roadless area known for its high-elevation bogs and rocky outcroppings, is the destination for hiking and backpacking. Hit for fly-fishing, creek stomping (wading and exploring), and hiking on paths that range from easy three-mile out-and-backs to multiday 20-mile loops.

Canaan Valley Resort State Park golf course
Is the author dying to play this course at the Canaan Valley Resort State Park when foliage pops in the fall? You bet. (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

I have never yet played the golf course at Canaan Valley State Park, but I would love to.

Biking

But if you’re coming to Davis, you’re bringing mountain bikes. The singletrack is notoriously difficult and, at least in my opinion, all uphill. That’s part of the charm.

mountain biker in race in Davis, WV
Revenge of the Rattlesnake is an epic cross-country bike race that starts and finishes in Davis; 2024 was its 41st year. The rider is on a section, which drops from Canaan Loop Road into Canaan Valley State Park, of the iconic Allegheny Trail. (Photo: )

If you agree that rocks are fun, start with , which forms the backbone of the singletrack within Canaan Valley. Many offshoots and well-worn social trails branch off this eight-mile point-to-point route, and I guarantee you’ll get off your bike at least once during particularly spicy sections, so give it twice as much time as you think you’ll need.


Don’t fret if that sounds like more torture than fun; some new, machine-groomed flow trails have been built for us mere mortals. Hit , a six-mile swoopy loop in Canaan Valley State Park. has beta, rentals, and gear.


Where to Eat and Drink in Davis, West Virginia

Davis and the Canaan Valley only have a few restaurants, but those have everything I crave when I’m there.

and , serving pizza, are staples. But my favorite place to eat is at Whitegrass, whose caters to a more elevated palate; its great vegetarian chili hits just right on a cold afternoon. Sometimes there’s live music, and the specials change daily, but there’s always a crowd of rosy-nosed cross-country skiers, fresh off the trails and hungry, clustered in a handful of tables in the middle of the gear and rental shop. The place is cozy, loud on a busy afternoon, and really fun. When it’s time for a beer, head to , the locals’ favorite drinking hole.

Where to Stay in Davis

You’ll find Airbnbs throughout the valley, including a option attached to the bike shop. The lovely has lodge rooms and cabins fresh off a renovation (from $178.50), as well as campsites with electricity. I’ve camped in my 4Runner here in the winter, running a space heater from the outlet. Searching for something a bit more sophisticated? Book a night at the ten-room , and enjoy its mid-century vibe (from $100).

Graham Averill of Asheville, North Carolina, is ϳԹ Online’s national-parks columnist. He’s hoping to bring his wife and kids to Davis this winter to ski at White Grass and sled on the hill in Blackwater Falls State Park. He recently wrote about themost beautiful towns in the Southeastand thebest ways to get outside in West Virginia, as well as an on-the-ground account ofwhat it was like to survive Hurricane Helene in Asheville, and why he rues not visiting Capitol Reef National Parksooner.

author photo graham averill
Graham Averill, author (Photo: Liz Averill)

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How to Visit Jackson Hole on a Budget—Know These Tips /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/visit-jackson-hole-wyoming-budget/ Mon, 02 Dec 2024 11:00:06 +0000 /?p=2689961 How to Visit Jackson Hole on a Budget—Know These Tips

This Wyoming gem is legendary for year-round adventure but known as pricey. There are ways to go without blowing your budget.

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How to Visit Jackson Hole on a Budget—Know These Tips

Ski trips shouldn’t be relegated to the rich and even richer. We all deserve to go powder chasing midwinter without dissolving our bank accounts. But these days, finding a budget way to ski requires serious homework. You can always venture away from the headliner areas to smaller, less crowded local ski hills that want to entice visitors through budget deals, but you may have to sacrifice quality of terrain and convenient lodging. Or you could go early or late season, but that means gambling on snow conditions.

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So, what if you want to go big—like, say, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, in mid-winter—but not spend big? It’s tricky but not impossible. Here’s how to visit a popular, world-class destination like Jackson Hole on a ski-bum’s budget. It’s also a great destination year-round, for hiking, biking, climbing, boating, fly fishing, and camping.

man and two women hike in Jackson, Wyoming, in summertime
Summertime hiking at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort brings incredible views. The area is also a biking and climbing mecca. (Photo: Stephen Shelesky / JHMR)

Getting to Jackson Hole, Wyoming

To reach Jackson, Wyoming, located at the base of the Teton Range, you can drive, fly, or take a bus. If you’re coming by car, it’s four and a half hours from Salt Lake City, Utah, or eight hours from Denver, pending road and weather conditions. offers bus routes into Jackson from Salt Lake City, Boise, or Las Vegas starting at $75. The Jackson Hole Airport has nonstop direct flights from 12 major U.S. cities, including Denver, Seattle, San Francisco, Dallas, Chicago, and Newark, but flights aren’t exactly cheap. United Airlines does offer an and $400 flight savings if you bundle lodging and airfare (deadline is by November 30, so save the idea for another year).

From the airport, hop a public bus or taxi into town. Don’t bother renting a car. Parking at the ski resort starts at $18 a day, so your best bet is to take the local ($3) from town or the Village Road Transit Center, and you’ll be dropped at the base of in Teton Village.

Lift-Ticket Deals in Jackson

If you can make it here early season, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has a weekendfrom December 6-8: show up wearing denim, and you can ski Saturday for $25 or get a three-day lift ticket for $199, plus half-priced gear rentals at and . Another great deal is that early or late season (November 29 through December 19 or March 17 through April 13), season passholders from any other ski area in the world can receive a 50-percent-off at Jackson Hole. Have an ? You can come midwinter and have up to seven days with the full Ikon Pass; five days with the Base Pass Plus (which has select blackout dates), . Otherwise your best option is to buy tickets online well in advance for the lowest rate (they start at $218 a day).

The best deal for skiing here isn’t at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; it’s at , the town ski hill, which has big steeps and steep discounts. This is a much smaller ski area—500 acres compared to Jackson’s 2,500 inbounds acres—but its convenient location in town and minimal crowds make it a worthy destination, especially on a powder day. Single-day lift tickets start at $95, or with a $30 uphill ticket you can skin up under your own power and ski back down. The other hidden gem? , a 2,602-acre powder mecca just over Teton Pass, 45 miles or about an hour and 10 minutes from Jackson, where you can score a half-day ticket for $132. run from Jackson to Targhee and start at $199, which includes your lift ticket.

woman skier hiking uphill, Teton Pass, near Jackson, Wyoming
Madison Ostergren bootpacks up Glory Bowl on Teton Pass, an easy-access backcountry zone. (Photo: Stephen Shelesky / Visit Jackson Hole)

Hire a Backcountry Guide or Take a Lesson: Info But Sorry, No Discounts

There’s no discount way to book a ski lesson or hire a backcountry guide. You’ll pay a premium for these services. At Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, full day for experienced skiers start at around $379 (excluding lift ticket) per person. Resort for those just getting started skiing or wanting to progress to the next level start at $250 a day. If you’d rather not originate at the ski area, you can hire an AMGA-certified guide from for a tour of the terrain off Teton Pass or in Grand Teton National Park starting at $265 a person.

Find Cheap Lodging in Jackson

the virginian ski lodge Jackson, Wyoming
The Virg, as it’s known, has recently had a complete overhaul. (Photo: Courtesy Outbound Hotels)

If you want to stay at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for the closest access to the lifts, your best budget option is (from $49), located right in Teton Village, which has both shared bunks and private rooms, plus a ski-tuning space, game room, and basic kitchen supplies.

Cache House, ski area, Jackson Wyoming
You can sleep in your own pod at the Cache House starting from $55. (Photo: Courtesy Cache House)

Otherwise, stay in town—12 miles away—and you’ll have your choice of a few wallet-friendly accommodations. has newly renovated rooms starting from around $177, and . The (from $55) has pod-style bunks, free coffee, and storage lockers for stashing your gear. And the recently redone (from $160) has hot tubs and firepits, an on-site burger joint, and a walk-through or drive-through liquor store that also sells breakfast burritos in the morning.

Affordable Food and Drink Here

If you’re on the mountain or staying in Teton Village, prices for food and drink aren’t cheap, so you’ll want to know where to look, and you can always pack a PBJ in your pocket. Start with a cup of high-quality espresso from the take-out window at , next to the Mango Moose. The , at the gas station across the parking lot from the team in Teton Village, has a food truck out front and grab-and-go breakfast sandwiches and burritos. Mid-day or after skiing, hit up inside the Snake River Lodge for a $9 hot dog or tacos, or the , one of the most classic après ski bars ever, which has $6 pizza by the slice. For fuel on the mountain, ride the tram to the top of Rendezvous Peak, take in the view of the Tetons from the observation deck, then pop into for an $8.25 house-made waffle with brown-sugar butter or Nutella. (Trust us, it’s worth every penny.)

Corbet's Cabin
Corbet’s Cabin at the top of the Jackson Hole Tram. Sign us up for the waffles.(Photo: Courtesy JHMR)

In town there are lots of options for dining out, but many of them are pricy. Buying groceries at Albertson’s will save you. For other options, has tasty burritos from $11 or $6 tacos. Up a flight of stairs from Town Square, you’ll find , which slings thin-crust large pies starting at around $17, or pick up a $5 slice from .

pizza, beer in Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Have a slice and a PBR at Pinky G’s, one of the more affordable pizzerias in the town of Jackson. (Photo: Visit Jackson Hole)

With locations in downtown Jackson and, seven miles away, the town of Wilson, is a locals’ favorite for no-fuss coffee and bagel sandwiches (a naked bagel costs $1.50). And the best breakfast burrito in town is served until 2 p.m. out of a take-out window on Glenwood Street called , where for $12 you can get a massive burrito that’ll feed you for two meals.

Other Cool Outdoor ϳԹs Here

ice skating Teton Village, Wyoming
The ice rink in Teton Village. You can skate for $5 if you bring your own gear. (Photo: Courtesy JHMR)

It’s $5 to skate in the or on the (through the famous elk-antler arches) if you have your own skates (or $18, including the entry fee, to rent skates).

hot springs near Jackson, Wyoming
From early December through March, when the approach road is closed, you will have to cross-country ski, snowmobile, or dog sled to reach Granite Hot Springs. (Photo: Keegan Rice / Visit Jackson Hole)

You’ll need to cross-country ski, snowmobile, or dog sled to reach , located south of town on Granite Creek Road, which is closed in the winter. It’s a 19-mile round trip ski to get there, but that’s the least expensive option ( rents Nordic skis from $40 a day; entry into the hot springs is $12) for this memorable day. Otherwise, you’ll need to throw down for a guided snowmobile trip ( leads them starting at $231) or a dogsled outing ( has full-day trips to the hot springs from $460).


It costs nothing to cross-country ski or fat bike along , a locals’ favorite trail that’s groomed in the winter and is a great biking and hiking trailhead in the summertime.


Another excellent year-round option is the short multi-use in the nearby town of Wilson.

Pro Tip

Teton Village, Wyoming
This is Teton Village, the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. (Photo: Courtesy JHMR)

Here’s a fun way to be a conscientious visitor to the area, while scoring a discount: Support Jackson Hole’s community radio station, KHOL 89.1, with a of $60 or more, and you’ll get a member-benefit card for discounts to heaps of local businesses, including $2 off a burrito, 10 percent off Philly cheesesteaks at , 15 percent off at , 10 percent off at classes at , and free cross-country ski rental for two people at (that alone is worth $80).

Megan Michelson is an ϳԹ contributing editor who loves skiing but not how expensive it is. She prefers the strawberry waffle from Corbet’s Cabin, and her favorite line at Jackson Hole is the very steep and very fun Tower Three Chute off Thunder Chair. Other recent articles by Michelson include “Why My Family Replaced Thanksgiving with Campsgiving,” about a great decision; a description of a tiny, remote backcountry hut, “This Is Hands-Down the Coolest Airbnb in Colorado”; and, more help with costs, “Shred This Colorado Mountain for $11 a Day—Plus Other Incredible Ski-Resort Deals.”

Megan Michelson author
The author, Megan Michelson, at the base of the Teton Range on one of many trips she’s taken to Jackson, Wyoming (Photo: Megan Michelson Collection)

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Are You Eating Enough? Here Are 5 Signs You Might Not Be. /health/nutrition/signs-of-not-eating-enough/ Thu, 21 Nov 2024 17:26:13 +0000 /?p=2688424 Are You Eating Enough? Here Are 5 Signs You Might Not Be.

And how it is sabotaging your training

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Are You Eating Enough? Here Are 5 Signs You Might Not Be.

“Running on empty” is a common idiom that can be used to describe a number of scenarios where someone is worn out or unmotivated. For runners that are underfueling, it can be quite literal. Whether you are knowingly or unknowingly underfueling, there are important factors to know about your caloric and nutritional needs.

Despite the prevailing myth that weight loss boils down to a simple calories in, calories out formula, a variety of lifestyle factors and their ensuing hormonal responses affect the ways our bodies respond to exercise and food. In an effort to maximize weight loss, many people (particularly women) eat as little as possible. “High-performing female athletes are at a high risk of underfueling,” says , MS, RDN, CSSD, and national media spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. “This can take place without them even knowing.” There can also be such a focus on creating this calorie deficit that it can be easy to forget what calories actually do: fuel our bodies.

Your body responds to extreme caloric restriction by doing whatever it can to ensure your survival, mostly by conserving energy and putting calories toward its most basic functions. To do this, the body resorts to burning fewer calories. While in this survival mode your body produces more of the stress hormone cortisol, according to . And according to the Hormone Health Network, high levels of cortisol can cause changes to your sex drive and menstrual cycle and might even be linked to anxiety and depression.

If you’re not eating enough food, it’s also likely that you have some sort of . According to the Micronutrient Information Center of Oregon State University, vitamin D, calcium, potassium, dietary fiber, and are commonly underconsumed in the U.S. Like eating too few calories, symptoms of micronutrient deficiency include fatigue, reduced immunity, lack of concentration, memory troubles, and mood fluctuations.

This impacts your training in several ways. When the body feels it must prioritize essential functions (like regulating breathing, body temperature, and blood pressure), it doesn’t feel that it’s safe to put resources toward things like rebuilding muscle tissue, which is the process that enables it to build strength. Training sessions, therefore, become harder when we’re underfed. Though you may feel like you’re performing with all you’ve got, you’re actually working at a severe energy disadvantage.

Without enough fuel, you can’t perform at your best. “When energy and intake is too low, it really cannot support the demands of health and high-level performance,” says Ansari. For endurance athletes, it means running out of gas more quickly while racing or out on training runs. Even if you manage to push through a workout made difficult by a lack of fuel, your muscles can’t rebuild, and your body may even resort to using the protein from your muscles themselves.

Runners that chronically underfuel and overtrain are at risk of developing Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). The syndrome is characterized by impaired metabolic rate, menstrual function, bone health, immunity, protein synthesis, and cardiovascular health.

So, how do you know if you’re eating enough for your activity level? The list below of common symptoms should give you a better idea.

RELATED:

5 Signs You Aren’t Eating Enough

1. You’re Constantly Tired

Food is energy. As mentioned above, if you’re not eating enough calories, your body is going to use the ones it does have to support vital functions. This means there aren’t any left to do the things you love. If you’re dragging your feet at the gym every day or while out on a run, chances are you could benefit from more food.

2. You’ve Hit a Training Plateau

Have you been working out with greater intensity but aren’t seeing any results? Do you see, as Ansari describes, “decreased performance in the weight room, out on the track or trails,” or feeling like you’re bonking or hitting the wall? Your body could be in starvation mode, fighting to preserve as many calories as it can.

If you’ve hit a ceiling in your weight training and haven’t seen an increase in months, it’s likely that you need to eat more, both to fuel your training and to repair your muscles.

3. You Aren’t Regular

Only about five percent of Americans consume enough fiber each day, according to national consumption surveys. If you are under-eating, the chances of your body getting enough fiber grow slimmer, which can easily lead to constipation. Another factor to consider is dehydration, which also contributes to slower bowels.

4. Your Brain Feels Foggy

Ansari, who works mostly with runners in high school and college, mentions that poor concentration in school is a symptom of underfueling. You may also feel that at work or even have trouble staying mentally alert during a workout. Your brain relies on proper nutrition to function, as well as the rest of your body.

5. You Can’t Sleep, Even Though You’re Tired

Appropriate food intake allows for improved blood sugar control. The combination of consuming too few calories and over-exercising leaves your liver depleted of the glycogen stores it needs to keep your blood sugar stable, forcing your body to release stress hormones that eventually lead to the production of new glucose. When stress hormones are high, we have trouble falling–and staying–asleep.

“Someone who is limiting carbs and/or overall calories may experience some sleep challenges,” says Ansari. “Carbohydrates help to make tryptophan, an amino acid that increases sleepiness, more available to the brain.”

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Adding Fuel to Your Tank

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to give a one-size-fits-all on how many calories your body needs, particularly since your energy expenditure varies every day. The USDA Dietary Guidelines estimate that adult women need anywhere from 1,600 to 2,400 calories a day. However, this baseline estimate doesn’t include the additional calories needed for intense exercise, as their definition of an active lifestyle for their purpose is “physical activity equivalent to walking more than 3 miles per day…in addition to the activities of independent living.”

While there are many bodyweight calculators available that can tell you what your ideal weight (and thus ideal calorie intake) should be for your age, gender, and height, both fail to consider things like frame size and muscle mass. Ansari recommends connecting with a registered dietitian to really figure out how to meet your needs.

There are other simple steps you can take to start benefiting your nutrition, like adding more whole foods, especially fruits and vegetables, to your diet. This is especially important if you suspect you have a nutrient deficiency. An RD can help you determine if you need additional interventions like supplements or vitamins.

You can use these rules to get started, but listening to your body and looking for the above clues–hunger, fatigue, weight loss, fitness plateaus, etc.—will serve as much more reliable indicators of your needs.

“I have worked with athletes who had been underfueling and experienced symptoms of RED-S,” says Ansari. “After focusing on an eating pattern that stressed the importance of nutrition adequacy and timing nutrition appropriately around training, we were able to improve their pace, energy, and the athlete was able to say that they felt stronger than ever before.”

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Leadville: America’s Highest City Is a Boom-and-Bust Town Reborn /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/leadville-colorado/ Sun, 10 Nov 2024 13:00:01 +0000 /?p=2686600 Leadville: America's Highest City Is a Boom-and-Bust Town Reborn

This remote mountain town has had its ups and downs. In recent years famous races put it on the map, but some knew of its year-round treasures all along.

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Leadville: America's Highest City Is a Boom-and-Bust Town Reborn

Most of Colorado’s 1800s boomtowns lived fast and died young. Leadville is an exception, evolving from being one of the wildest Wild West outposts to the heart of Colorado’s high-altitude outdoor adventures.

Colorado’s two highest mountains, the 14,440-foot Mount Elbert and 14,429-foot Mount Massive, dominate the horizon west of Leadville. For good measure, the state’s third-highest mountain, Mount Harvard at 14,423-foot, is about an hour’s drive from town. The trio represents the three highest peaks in the whole of the Rocky Mountains. Aside from its situation amidst such resources, the town of Leadville since 1983 and 1994 has hosted major hundred-mile running and mountain-biking races, respectively. What keeps Leadville relevant and thriving today is outdoor recreation.

Leadville materialized in 1860 with the discovery of placer gold (gold extracted from eroded rock), and the mining boom was on. Gold and zinc deposits eventually took a back seat to Leadville’s dominant metal: silver. There are rumors of misdirection behind the misleading name, but the “lead” in Leadville wasn’t entirely disingenuous. Lead ore was indeed mined in the area, but it was the silver-bearing lead-ore blend called cerussite that gave the town its official title.

“Leadville” was bestowed by Horace Tabor, a developer known variously as the Bonanza King and the Silver King, in 1878 after trying out names such as California Gulch, Boughton, Slabtown, and my favorite, Cloud City.

1893 – The Year the Silver Barons Went Bust

Some of Leadville’s iconic Wild West buildings are still open for business, including the Silver Dollar Saloon, established in 1879. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

In 1880 Leadville reached a peak population of 14,820, recorded in the city’s first official census. An explosion of wealth brought along with it a desire for refined culture in a rough place. Horace Tabor fast-tracked the Tabor Opera House in 1879. Opening in the same year was the elegant Interlaken Hotel, on the shores of Twin Lakes, a gorgeous but ultimately doomed retreat for well-off visitors.

The luxury starkly contrasted with the abysmal conditions in the perilously unsafe mines. An estimated 3,000 to 5,000 miners died from 1860 to 1899 in cave-ins, explosions, and equipment accidents. A lack of safety standards (and reports on mine accidents) makes it difficult to pinpoint the number of fatalities.

The Panic of 1893 and President Grover Cleveland’s initiative to repeal the Sherman Silver Purchase Act, however, jointly tanked Leadville’s fortunes. The Sherman Silver Act had required the government to purchase a monthly allotment of 4.5 million ounces (roughly 280,000 pounds) of silver. Its revocation was the beginning of the end for Leadville’s mining prosperity—but not for the city itself.

Visiting America’s Highest City

Downtown Leadville Colorado
Leadville, Colorado, in mid-autumn. The town’s population, which hit a peak of nearly 15,000 during the mining boomtown days, now hovers around 3,000. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

Leadville is America’s highest incorporated city. At 10,152 feet, it is a mere 408 feet away from being twice as high as Denver (5,280 feet). The city’s history is rich and well worth exploring. Strategic visitors can benefit from a day or two in (and below) town while acclimating to the thin air. Moving up gradually is a solid plan for both local Coloradans and out-of-state guests who aspire to hike the high peaks.

mitch dulleck of Leadville, Colorado
Mitch Dulleck, Leadville resident, on his way up Mount Elbert, the highest peak in Colorado. Dulleck is a longtime distance runner and a Leadville 100 runner. (Photo: Brian Metzler)

Mountain hiking in the Leadville region is world-class. Seven peaks over 14,000 feet lie within an hour’s drive of Leadville, and all of them can be hiked on established trails without use of ropes or technical climbing equipment. The two highest Colorado peaks, Elbert and Massive, have trailheads less than a half mile apart.

Dozens of excellent 13,000-foot peaks explore the nearby backcountry. Ski Cooper, 11 miles from Leadville, may be moderate in terrain but captures a family-friendly, authentic aesthetic lacking in Colorado’s mega-resort ski towns. The repurposed backcountry cabins of are open to visitors year-round (though winter reservations can be challenging to secure.)

Courtney Dauwalter running in mountains around Leadville
Courtney Dauwalter of Leadville runs on Dyer Mountain, above 12,000 feet. Last year Dauwalter was the first person to win the Western States 100, Hardrock 100, and Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc in a calendar year. (Photo: Brian Metzler)

And because people are crazy, Leadville hosts two 100-mile races: the for bikers and the .

Colorado’s Highest Summits

Mount Elbert the tallest mountain in Colorado as well as in the Rocky Mountains.
Mount Elbert, the tallest mountain in Colorado. At 14,440 feet, it’s the second-highest mountain in the lower 48 U.S. states, behind the 14,4,97-foot Mount Whitney in California. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

I’ve hiked Mount Elbert 12 times at the time of writing and might have added to that count by the time you’re reading this. Mount Elbert and neighboring Mount Massive have established hiking trails requiring good fitness and altitude acclimation. Still, with proper acclimatization and preparation, they are attainable by “everyman” hikers who want to stand on the highest ground in Colorado.

Mount Sherman Colorado 14er at sunrise
The summit of Mount Sherman, one of the 14,000-foot peaks accessible from Leadville (Photo: James Dziezynski)

I could about the excellent hiking around Leadville. The 14,197-foot Mount Sherman is a great first 14er, and one route starts from Iowa Gulch on the Leadville side of the mountain. The Mosquito Pass Area has some of my favorite 13ers, including Treasurevault Mountain, Mosquito Peak, and London Mountain. These peaks don’t see the crowds the 14ers do but offer all the same great views and rolling, rounded ridge lines. French Mountain and Oklahoma Mountain are two more remote 13ers I also count among my favorites, offering wilderness solitude with the historical flashes of mining ruins. Oklahoma Mountain was the site of a plane crash in 1954, and some of the wreckage can still be seen on the mountain.

Seeing Leadville Through New Eyes

Leadville's national mining museum and hall of fame
Leadville is home to the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum, containing interactive exhibits, many gems and crystals, and accounts of hundreds of men and women who were part of area history. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

For over 20 years, my visits to Leadville were almost exclusively to climb and hike in the high mountains. On a recent trip, I decided to shift my focus and dive into the city’s brief but ample history. Rather than sleeping in one of my battered tents, I took a more civilized approach and rented an Airbnb right in town. Leadville’s compact layout makes most interesting sites a short walk or bike ride away.

The original inhabitants of the region were the Indigenous Ute and Arapaho tribes. Both have oral histories of the area going back hundreds of years. This history is told in detail at the in Montrose, Colorado, about a three-hour drive away.

Most of Leadville’s historical displays focus on the mining era from 1860 onward. I started at the . Exhibits showcase an unflinching look at the dangerous art of extracting minerals from the earth. My next stop was to a place highlighting the human toll of immigration to a cold and remote place: the in Evergreen Cemetery, completed in 2023, honors over 1,300 Irish men, women, and children who sought something better in America and are buried in unmarked graves. As the eloquently states, “The Irish occupied the bottom rung of Leadville’s social ladder, worked the mines and smelters, loved, struggled, dreamed, and died young.”

Sculpture of miner with pick axe and harp at a memorial in a pine forest
The Leadville Irish Miners’ Memorial remembers over 1,300 people who lived and died in the town during the early mining days. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

Evergreen Cemetery is set in the peaceful shade of stately ponderosa pines, a mosaic of pine needles and native grasses underfoot. The tasteful memorial features a short labyrinth walkway that ends at the sculpture of a miner holding a pick-axe and a harp, one of Ireland’s national symbols.

Leadville’s mining community was represented by two major groups, including Jewish as well as Irish immigrants. Jewish pioneers’ history here has been preserved at , built in 1884 for a community that then numbered some 400 and contributed to business and municipal life.

The top echelons of Leadville society were those on the winning side of the mining equation. One was August R. Meyer, a mining engineer who built the ornate nine-bedroom atop a small hill above the city proper. You need to make a reservation to tour the grounds in winter (by phone, 719-486-0487; $10 for adults, free for ages 18 and under), while in summer the place is open Wednesdays through Sundays, 10 A.M to 4 P.M., with walk-in tours. It’s worth a look inside to see what top-of-line comfort looked like in 1878.

Into Leadville’s Wilderness

High alpine lake in Colorado - Turquoise Lake
Turquoise Lake, seven miles from town, offers year-round recreation, from fishing and camping to kayaking, paddleboarding, trail running or hiking, and nordic skiing.(Photo: James Dziezynski)

Surrounding Leadville in an 11.6-mile circle is the paved , accessible to runners, cyclists, and dogs, and wheelchair friendly. In winter, the trail is a popular cross-country ski destination. The pathway weaves through mining ruins on the south side of town, with informational signs at relevant sites. One is the dusty mine where the Guggenheim family made their fortune, prior to founding the sophisticated Guggenheim Museum in New York City.

I wished I had allotted more time to explore the whole trail, but I had a year-old border collie that was itching to explore some of Leadville’s aquatic sights: its brilliant alpine lakes.

Mineral Belt trail in Leadville where it passes through old mining ruins
Explore mining ruins and other historical locations by walking, cycling, or nordic skiing along the paved nearly 12-mile Mineral Belt Trail. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

is the perfect place for a peaceful lunch break. In the summer, the lake is a popular destination for boating, camping, and fishing. Come autumn, when I visited, it’s a much quieter scene. On this day, it was a detour en route to a hike to the restored site of the .

Most of my hiking adventures in Leadville are in the high peaks, so it was a nice change of pace to explore a new trail—one that leads to a haunted hotel from the 1800s. At least I assume it’s haunted.

dog on mountain trail near lake
The trail into the old Interlaken Resort winds along the beautiful shoreline of Twin Lakes, 22 miles from Leadville, near highway 82 to Independence Pass. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

The trail to the resort site is along a mostly flat shelf that borders the southern shore of Twin Lakes, 22 miles from town. About five miles roundtrip, with a total elevation gain of about 335 feet, the outing would be great for a family. You can even mountain bike the trail if you’re in a hurry to see the hotel.

Abandoned ghost resort of Interlaken, Leadville Colorado
You can hike to see the long-closed Interlaken Hotel, built as a resort in the 1870s and expanded in 1883 as a luxury destination with billiards and other games, horseback riding, and visiting orchestras. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

While the main hotel is closed, the long-ago millionaire owner James V. Dexter’s private cabin, built in 1895, is open to the public. Dexter bought the resort in 1883 and supported it as a luxury draw for 13 years, until Twin Lakes were dammed, a mere year after the cabin’s construction. The shoreline became shallow and stagnant, and fears of malaria and other diseases were the death knell of the once-popular resort. It was abandoned in the early 1900s.

High alpine cabin near lake in Colorado
The restored Dexter Cabin, once the owner’s residence at a grand mountain hotel, has excellent views of Twin Lakes. Visitors can even go inside to see the finished interior. (Photo: James Dziezynski)
views from inside the Dexter cabin
Views from inside the Dexter Cabin. The resort, now a ghost town, was built on the southern shores of Twin Lakes. Guests arrived by taking a train, riding a platform wagon, and finally stepping onto a boardwalk. (Photo: James Dziezynski)
Interlaken Twin Lakes shore
The shoreline at the Interlaken Resort. The old resort was open year round, with sleigh rides, skating, and skiing in winter replacing the hiking and picnicking of warmer months. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

I could easily see the appeal of such a stunning location, especially in early October when shimmering waves of hyper-yellow aspen leaves contrast with the inky waters of Twin Lakes, set in a valley below Colorado’s tallest mountains. The buildings are surprisingly well-preserved. The place looks as if it could open for business next spring.

Leadville Past and Present

Downtown-Leadville
Looking toward Leadville’s main street, Harrison Drive, at sunset. The Tabor Grand Hotel, which opened in 1885, is in the foreground. Also on the main boulevard is the Tabor Opera House, built in 1879 to bring culture to a hardscrabble place.(Photo: James Dziezynski)

I didn’t forget about our pal Horace Tabor. When Tabor was (briefly) at the top of the world, he built the , which is still in operation with guided and private tours and events. Tabor, a businessperson and industry titan who came here from Vermont, went from rags to riches and then back to rags, dying of appendicitis in 1899 in Denver, where he worked as postmaster. His wife and widow, Baby Doe Tabor, was equally famous, having lured Horace Tabor away from his first wife with her reportedly unmatched beauty. Baby Doe’s story ended 35 years later, when she froze to death, alone and destitute, in a cabin near the Matchless Mine, in her early 80s.

The House with the Eye Museum.
The House with the Eye Museum: it’s always watching. The eye is stained glass, and the museum contains items donated by the community to show life from the 1880s until 1930s.(Photo: James Dziezynski)

The list of famous people who visited Leadville reads like a who’s who from the 1800s. Mark Twain, Doc Holliday, the “Unsinkable” Molly Brown (who survived the Titanic disaster of 1912), Buffalo Bill, Bat Masterson (a Wild West lawman), Ulysses S. Grant, and Susan B. Anthony all set foot in the city. Leadville still fondly remembers its visit from Oscar Wilde in 1882. In a lecture at the Tabor Opera House, Wilde remarked upon a sign he allegedly saw in the Leadville saloon, “Don’t shoot the piano player; he is doing his best.”

Golden Burro restaurant and bar on main street, Leadville
A nighttime shot shows the historic Harrison Street with the revamped Golden Burro and Delaware Hotel. (Photo: Brian Metzler)

For a small place, Leadville has a good selection of dining options. I like to pair a visit to my favorite pizza place, (featuring a dog-friendly yard), with a stop next door at the kitschy , a humble museum showcasing the furnishings of homes from the 1880s-1930s. The Golden Burro Cafe and Lounge and the Silver Dollar Saloon are solid American dining options in historic, old-timey settings—the food is good, and don’t worry, both establishments are family-friendly.

Leadville, Where the Ghosts Are Young

Healy House and Dexter Cabin Leadville
The Healy House was a high-end residence in Leadville’s early days. The mining engineer August R. Meyer built the house in 1878, but it is named for Daniel Healy, who purchased it in 1888. Healy was one of the few Irish immigrants to Leadville who found his fortune, working his way up from mail carrier to become a representative in the Colorado state legislature. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

Historians place April 26, 1860, the day Abe Lee discovered placer gold a mile from town in the surrounding California Gulch, as the day that started the Colorado gold rush and gave rise to the human drama that would unfold, tangled in ambition, greed, luck, and misfortune. Leadville’s 2020 census showed a population of 2,633, far smaller than the boomtown days when the town was second in size only to Denver.

Leadville today may have fewer people, but the spirit of the place is far from diminished. Pivoting to outdoor recreation has created a new kind of boom that balances the region’s natural beauty with the authentic grittiness that put Leadville on the map.

We love leadville sign
We love Leadville. I bet you will, too! Just bring extra layers, because it’s up pretty high. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

The city has settled into a good place, trading its pick axes for hiking poles. Leadville’s sharp edges have been smoothed down like the towering mountains surrounding it. Summer days in the high mountains cede to relaxing evenings on the casual confines of Main Street. Take your dogs for stand-up paddleboarding on Turquoise Lake or a run on the Mineral Belt Trail. As I discovered on my most recent visit, Leadville always has more to uncover.

About the Author

Author James Dziezynski and border collie Fremont on Mount Elbert
The author and his border collie, Fremont, on the slopes of Mount Elbert (Photo: James Dziezynski Collection)

James Dziezynski is the author of six Colorado mountain hiking guidebooks and the SEO Director at ϳԹ. The Leadville area is one of his favorite hiking destinations in Colorado—and may very well be his top-ranked dog-hiking playground. James has also written about The 10 Best Summit Hikes in Coloradoand, near his home, The Best Hikes in Boulder, Colorado, as well as another gritty and gorgeous place: “This Colorado Town Is Off the Beaten Path and Full of ϳԹ.”

Looking for more great travel intel?

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What It’s Like to Stay in a Glass Dome Under Utah’s Darkest Skies /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/clear-sky-resorts-bryce-canyon/ Fri, 01 Nov 2024 10:00:32 +0000 /?p=2687158 What It’s Like to Stay in a Glass Dome Under Utah's Darkest Skies

I stayed in these glass-walled geodesic domes under dark skies, just a few miles from Bryce Canyon National Park and its world-renowned concentration of hoodoos

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What It’s Like to Stay in a Glass Dome Under Utah's Darkest Skies

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn’t it be something to stay there? We do, too—all the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Waking up in the middle of the night can be maddening. Unless you’re able to gaze directly up at the firmament.

The skies are the star attraction at Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon, a new property set in a quiet gulch just 16 miles southeast of Bryce Canyon National Park. Far from light pollution and adjacent to this certified International Dark Sky Park, it offers superb stargazing by night and an otherworldly landscape by day.

Bryce Point, Bryce Canyon National Park
The famous Bryce Point overlook at Bryce Canyon National Park, about 20 minutes away from the resort. The park offers the world’s greatest collection of the slender rock spires known as hoodoos. (Photo: Courtesy Peter Densmore/NPS)

Most nights, that is. I could consider it unfortunate that rain fell during my visit, but precipitation is good for the high desert. And while I lacked lucid starry skies, I enjoyed a daytime rainbow and an evening lightning show, both plenty compensatory. Upon waking at first light—usually discomfiting to this night owl—I watched raindrops run peaceful rivulets down the glass wall of my geodesic dome.

The resort is a collection of these futuristic structures, their surfaces half-glass and half-paneled. The window sides of each dome face up and also away from other units, though as darkness fell, I couldn’t help wondering (hey, a little) about anyone looking in. But all I had to do was close the lower tier of curtains, leaving the top ones open for viewing.

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon
All about the windows. Looking out through the glass triangles from within a dome. (Photo: Alison Osius)

Hal Feinberg, resort founder and co-owner, said in the dining hall that evening that he came up with the sky-dome idea after seeing a teepee hotel in Livingston, Montana, that felt close to nature yet offered decks and nice indoor furniture.

In 2021, he opened Clear Sky Resorts Grand Canyon, 30 miles from the South Rim, with 45 sky domes that, like the ones in Utah, are connected by paths to shared activity spaces. With the Bryce iteration, Feinberg upgraded from using clear PVC canvas windows to ones made of glass. The result, he said, “is like going from a Chevy to a Corvette.”

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon opened August 9. It currently offers 25 domes, out of an intended final total of 62. Also underway is an employee-housing structure for up to 40 people.

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon, Utah
High-stakes cornhole out on the deck at a three-gen family reunion (Photo: Alison Osius)

This is luxury glamping with a jazzy, celestial theme. In the lobby, I passed a robot whose concierge duties include greeting guests by name and pulling up hiking maps. The nearby dining-hall dome, also known as the é, featured a gleaming central boomerang-shaped bar. That evening as friends and I stared out of the é’s 28-foot-tall window, the amber lights lining the surrounding gravel paths and access road glowed like airport jetways.

A singer-guitarist played during dinner, and afterward, between showers, we hung out around the decorative fire pit on the deck. Daytime, people lounged there at the outdoor tables, and a grandfather smiled as his two grandsons went at it with cornhole.

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon
So we got rainy skies, but hard to complain when a rainbow lights up the sky. Dome Number Six, aka Milky Way. (Photo: Alison Osius)

ϳԹ Intel

You can sign up for stargazing tours and outdoor yoga, or walk a pleasant mile or two around the property on the gravel paths and roadway. A nearby option is to drive ten miles to the northernmost hike in the national park, the moderate (0.8 mile one-way, with just 150 feet of elevation gain). This waterfall hike, a rarity for the area, winds along the park boundary.

Queen's Garden Trail, Bryce National Park
Bryce Canyon from the bottom: on the Queen’s Garden Trail, underneath the Queen Victoria hoodoo. (Her silhouette is the second hoodoo in from the right). (Photo: Neil Tandy)

But most visitors are here to explore the heart of . Friends and I intended to hike with April LeFevre, a fourth-generation area resident who drove shuttle groups in Bryce for 18 years before opening her own outfit, . Rain, however, nixed the morning’s hike, and instead we motored along on the main park road, UT-63, which stretches 18 miles north to south. Before doubling back to finish at the famed Bryce Amphitheater overlook near the entrance, we marveled at seeing the arch at Natural Bridge, 12 miles in, and two miles later the Hunter spire at Agua Canyon, come in and out of the mist.

Natural Bridge, Bryce
Natural Bridge emerges for a moment from the mist. Rock windows, like the area hoodoos, are formed of erosion and the ice-expansion that occurs in freeze-thaw cycles. Bryce, located in the desert but at altitude, receives both above- and below-freezing temperatures over 170 nights a year. (Photo: Alison Osius)

Along the way, LeFevre recounted many local tales, including that of LeRoy Parker, later known as the outlaw Butch Cassidy, who grew up 50 miles away in Circleville. His life changed when he was 13, LeFevre said, after he visited a mercantile to pick up a pair of overalls he’d had repaired, and, finding the place closed, slipped through a window to take them and a pie. He left a note regarding payment, but the owner pressed charges. Though acquitted, the youth henceforth resented authority. LeFevre also said that while Cassidy is thought to have died with his partner, the Sundance Kid, in Bolivia, an area rancher (now long gone) told her that Cassidy had returned to Circleville. The rancher claimed to have given the former robber a ride in his wagon. Some say Cassidy is buried in a secret location in Circleville.

Anyone visiting the park will want to see the spindly hoodoos, striated in red, gold, and white. Bryce Canyon has the greatest concentration of hoodoos in the world: 12 amphitheaters of them. According to an ancient Piaute , the hoodoos were once people who’d committed evil acts. A coyote spirit invited them all to a party, to trap them, and turned them to stone.

Queen's Garden Trail, Bryce Canyon, Utah
Visitors hike along Queen’s Garden Trail, the least arduous of the trails dropping from the rim into the Bryce Canyon Amphitheater. However, all the hikes are at altitude, increasing the difficulty for most people. (Photo: Alison Osius)

In geological terms, the hoodoos and holes in the walls are remnants from 50 million years ago when the area was a lake surrounded by rock walls. The spires formed from erosion, weather, and ice expansion during freeze-thaw cycles.

Later, when the clouds cleared, our crew hiked the , a 1.8-mile round-trip, to reach a formation that supposedly looks like Queen Victoria. I didn’t think too much of the resemblance, but marveled at the views of endless golden towers and labyrinths. This hike is commonly for a stellar three-miler. I’d have loved to do the 4.2-mile hike to see the top-heavy hoodoos of the .


Bryce is known as an otherworldly place to see the sunrise (head to Sunrise Point) as it lights up the hoodoos. Rangers offer in the park as well, and doing that would be amazing.

Full moon hike past hoodoos in Bryce Canyon
Rangers in Bryce Canyon National Park offer full-moon hikes (by reservation). (Photo: Courtesy Gaelyn Olmsted/NPS)

The landscape is also a bird-watchers’ dream, drawing hawks, eagles, peregrine falcons, and swifts. I delighted in seeing both ponderosa pine, which smells of vanilla, and, at the highest point of the canyon, ancient twisted bristlecone pines. The mellow one-mile cuts through a forest, with side views of hoodoos. (This trail is considered largely wheelchair accessible, with assistance.)

Much of the hiking at Bryce begins at about 8,000 feet, and the Bristlecone Loop reaches 9,100 feet, so in coming from lower elevation, be prepared to deal with altitude. Always bring water and pay attention to intake.

towers at Bryce Canyon National Park
Looking down from the 5.5-mile Rim Trail into an expanse that includes the freestanding tower of Thor’s Hammer, seen dead center (Photo: Alison Osius)

Choice Rooms

The Standard Sky Domes sleep two. I stayed in a Deluxe, called Milky Way, with more controls for lights and temperature and vents than I possibly knew what to do with. The place had a patio (some have decks) and kitchenette, a king bed and two twin beds in a loft, and a rad shower with six adjustable side jets. The Milky Way ($730) was dubbed an XL in that it slept four, and I thought about how much fun (aside from the snoring) it would be to have my husband and two sons here.

swinging chair in a dome at Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon
Yes, this chair was comfortable, as well as cool-looking. I swing-tested it too. (Photo: Alison Osius)

The designs varied. One friend stayed in a two-occupant Deluxe called the Big Dipper ($630) with no loft but a cool swinging chair. Another was in Nova ($680), also double occupancy, that had, I kid you not, a dance floor, disco ball, and flashing lights. There’s a two-suite dome that sleeps eight ($1,125) if you want to go big.

Eat and Drink

The resort’s Sky Nova Café Bar and Grill, open to the public, affords wall-to-ceiling views of the canyon and sky and has a lot of fun themed touches, like little inverted domes within the water glasses and crazily multicolored silverware.

Entrées are generously sized and range from $20 and to $35, though the 20-ounce Atlas Ribeye is $49—and that thing is a brick. I ordered the heavenly pan-seared Titan’s Trout with lemon-dill sauce.

i.d.k. barbecue in Tropic
Maybe you didn’t know how much you liked barbecue or even how hungry you were until going into the casual i.d.k. Barbecue in Tropic, Utah. (Photo: Alison Osius)

I didn’t know I liked barbecue that much until I had lunch at i.d.k. Barbecue, six miles from the resort in the town of Tropic. While I had the sweet chicken and baked beans, also on offer were pulled pork, beef brisket, slaw, potato salad, and cornbread.

Ebenezer’s Barn and Grill, 15 miles away in Bryce Canyon City, is a popular “gourmet cowboy” music hall, with a fixed-price meal served to hundreds in turn. The night we visited, Due West, a country band founded in Nashville, Tennessee, played original tunes.

Ebenezer's Bar and Grill
Ebenezer’s Bar and Grill packs them in, in this case for original music and tales told by Due West out of Nashville. (Photo: Alison Osius)

When to Go

Clear Sky is open year-round, as is Bryce Canyon. Most visitors to the park come from June through September to take advantage of the warmer weather and clearest skies. The months of October through May are cooler but the upsides are fewer crowds, autumn foliage, and spring wildflowers. Some say the park is at its most beautiful with white snow atop the red rock.

How to Get There

The small Bryce Canyon Airport is just four miles north of the park. Most visitors fly into Salt Lake City and rent a car for the spectacular 294-mile drive south.

Don’t Miss

Bryce Canyon Lodge, Bryce Canyon National Park
Meeting hall with impressive stone fireplace in the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge, set in the forest just 700 feet from the canyon rim (Photo: Alison Osius)

Stick your head into the lobby of the Bryce Canyon Lodge, built in 1924 in the Rustic style of national-park architecture and one of some half dozen lodges designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it meshes development, landscape architecture, and the environment. The lodge is located in the forest only 700 feet from the canyon rim, and a beautiful half-mile walk from Sunrise Point.

Details

Price: From $525
Address: 855 UT-12, Cannonville, UT 84718

888 704 4445

To Book

 

Alison Osius is a senior editor at ϳԹ and part of the travel team. She lives in Western Colorado. Previously, she had only flown over Bryce Canyon, though in a small plane with a sunset view. This was a prized chance to explore the park from the ground.

author photo Alison Osius
The author was weathered out some of the time in Bryce Canyon National Park. Still, it’s magical to see towers and other formations come in and out of the mist. (Photo: Neil Tandy)

Looking for more great travel intel?

For more by this author, see a personal tale of years of hiking the Storm King Memorial Trail, just off Interstate 70, in Western Colorado, site of a famous firefighting tragedy.

See also this tribute to the most beautiful mountain town in Colorado.

And a lifetime’s accumulated camping tips.

 

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Instant Urban Hikes Are Popping Up in U.S. Cities /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/instant-urban-hikes/ Thu, 17 Oct 2024 10:00:31 +0000 /?p=2682921 Instant Urban Hikes Are Popping Up in U.S. Cities

From Boston to San Francisco, urban hikers have stitched parks and paths together into beautiful, rigorous, and creative routes

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Instant Urban Hikes Are Popping Up in U.S. Cities

The eucalyptus forest I am huffing through is a grand hall of emerald leaves, interlaced vines, and branches that feel removed from modernity. The trees are 100 feet tall, and from their uppermost limbs I hear the faint twittering of Western Sandpipers. The Jurassic vibe of the dense woodland reminds me of remote corners of the backcountry where hiking usually happens. But when I emerge from the trees, I see a subway station at the foot of the hill, and the possibility of carnitas tacos and an ice-cold Coke.

I am halfway through hiking the San Francisco Crosstown Trail. A 17-mile urban walking route across the cityscape from the docks of Candlestick Point to the seaside cliffs of Land’s End, the Crosstown Trail is a showcase of San Francisco’s overlooked natural spaces and the streets and environments that link them. It’s a curation of pre-existing walkable spaces, most of them far from the conventional tourist radar, with access to public-transit stops and restaurants along the way. The trail burrows through woodlands and canyons, ascends towering staircases, and occasionally pops by landmarks like Golden Gate Park and Baker Beach, where you can see the Golden Gate Bridge’s arches through the fog.

The Crosstown Trail was “built” in less than two years, with a budget of $600. Bob Siegel, a retired teacher and lifelong rambler who helped bring the trail to life in 2018, called the route an “Instant Urban Trail.”

“For years,” Siegel says, “I had been thinking about creating something that would get people in the city out of their neighborhoods and routines, and show them just how much more there is to explore here.” While Siegel originally discussed the idea for a connective park-to-park trail across the city with the parks department, he and fellow volunteer trail planners ultimately realized the project independently. They scouted the route, finding the connections between segments; created free maps and directions; and presented the trail on a . Within months, the Crosstown Trail was featured in and the .

I walked it two years ago. It was my first glimmer of the idea that you can create an urban trail without a seven-figure construction budget or the institutional buy-in of a city.

“There are hundreds of trails hidden [in] the pavement and dirt,” Siegel says. “We basically brought one to the surface.”

 

hiking outside of Boston
Friends find green and gold on the Walking City Trail in Boston. This section is Peters Hill in Arnold Arboretum.(Photo: Miles Howard)

The day after my Crosstown traverse, waiting for my flight back to Boston, I was already imagining a trail in my hometown—studying a map of Boston, looking at adjacent parks, woods, and wetlands, and wondering if I could hike through them from the Neponset River on the city’s south edge to the Bunker Hill Monument that looms over the harbor. I spent the spring of 2022 chasing that question in the field; poking around over 30 green spaces in 17 neighborhoods, envisioning each as a chapter of a meandering urban trail with plenty of ups, downs, and rewarding lookouts. That summer, after cobbling together maps and turn-by-turn directions, I launched the website for the 27-mile Boston .

Because these trails are on existing pathways that involve route connecting, pretty much anyone can invent an Instant Urban Trail.

As public interest in hiking soars, I expect more of these trails to materialize in American cities, crafted by hikers with rustic taste and civic pride. But don’t just take my word for it. Give cross-city hiking a try on any of these urban trails that range from industrious day hikes to thru-hiking adventures.

1. The Olmsted 50/70 Trails (Seattle)

Miles: 75

Seatt;e waterscape
The Olmstead 50 and the Olmstead 70 celebrate the work of a visionary architect and his descendants. This sight from Golden Gardens Beach at Golden Gardens Park is part of that vision. (Photo: Miles Howard)

Big, lush city parks as we’ve known them are originally the brainchild of Frederick Law Olmsted, the landscape architect who designed Central Park in the years after the Civil War. After Olmsted’s death in 1903, his sons kept the family business going and expanded the roster of Olmsted parks to West Coast cities. Now, in Seattle, you can hike 75 miles through some of the city’s most rustic Olmstedian work on the . These co-joined Instant Urban Trails were assembled by hiking trip leaders with , an outdoor recreation and conservation club, from 2022 to 2024.

Ravenna Park, Seattle
Ravenna Park, part of one of the Olmstead hikes, is a ravine and green space between the Ravenna neighborhood and University District in Seattle. The ravine lines Ravenna Creek. (Photo: Miles Howard)

Divided into 12 segments, the trails form a squiggly loop around the city, visiting beloved natural spaces like Golden Gardens Beach and lesser-known realms like the ferny trails of Ravenna Park and Interlaken Park. While the trail can be picked up and hiked from any point along the loop, the formal trailhead for Section 1 is the Ballard Locks.

King County Metro buses and light rail trains drop off and pick up from many points near the Olmsted 50 and 70 Trails.

2. The Giraffe Path (New York City)

Miles: 6

walking in New York City
Springtime on the Giraffe Path in Fort Tryon Park, New York City. Why is it called Giraffe Path? Read below. (Photo: Miles Howard)

New York City, where the birth of Central Park ignited a new era of parks and green spaces in American cities, is home to over , which come in many sizes and range from playgrounds to sprawling conservation lands. , a six-mile trail through the leafier unsung gems of northern Manhattan, is an invitation to venture beyond Central Park.

On a map, the shape of the trail resembles the head and neck of a giraffe. The Giraffe Path runs north from the upper edge of Central Park to the blooming hilltop gardens of Fort Tryon Park, through hidden arboretums, cliffside paths, and staircases in Harlem and The Heights. Created by north Manhattan residents in collaboration with the city’s neighborhood health-focused CLIMB (City Life Is Moving Bodies) initiative, the Giraffe Path features serene spaces like Highbridge Park and St. Nicholas Park, with impressive city vistas, winding stone stairways, and cliffs of Manhattan bedrock bulging from the hillsides. The trail also passes lots of bodegas should you find you could use a bag of pork rinds or a new tube of sunblock.

Access: You can access the Giraffe Path by way of the MTA’s many subway and bus routes. To head north, aim for the Cathedral Parkway-110th Street subway station. Once you hit Fort Tryon Park, you can hop back on the train at 190th Street Station (which features a cool elevator ride from the hilltop park level into the depths of the subway system).

3. The Double Cross Trail (San Francisco)

Miles: 14

John Trevithick, co-founder of the well-named Double Cross Trail, San Francisco, pauses on an overlook at Tank Hill. (Photo: Miles Howard)

If you’re still not convinced that anyone can create an Instant Urban Trail, consider this. In 2023, two fans of the San Francisco Crosstown Trail proposed a sequel: a companion trail that would run perpendicular to the original, visiting sumptuous green spaces like the grassy bluffs of Fort Funston Park and Telegraph Hill, where twisted staircases climb through passages of dense vegetation. The Crosstown Trailbuilders loved the idea and offered some advice and guidance on the “building” process. After less than a year of scouting and finessing, the debuted.

Heading northeast, the trail cuts 14 hilly miles from Fort Funston to the piers of The Embarcadero, summiting San Francisco’s 922-foot Twin Peaks in the process. It’s a slow-burn transition from the open spaces of the city’s southwest side to the skyscrapers and alleyways of downtown.

hiker looking out from San Francisco seascape
A whole different overlook on the Double Cross Trail, this one at on an overlook at Fort Funston(Photo: Miles Howard)

Access: As with the Crosstown Trail, Muni bus and subway stops and BART train stations offer access to multiple segments of the Double Cross Trail. To begin from Fort Funston, take the 58 bus to the John Muir Drive and Skyline Boulevard stop and make your way through Fort Funston to the observation deck: the west official trailhead. Once you reach Embarcadero Plaza, you can catch a number of trolleys and buses from The Embarcadero and Greenwich Street Station.

4. The Chicago Outerbelt (Chicago)

Miles: 210

hike outside of Chicago
A hiker takes in an image of Burr Oak Woods on the Chicago Outerbelt. (Photo: Jay Readey)


Chicago’s high-rises and lakefront parks are so visually iconic that they can eclipse the more ragged, quietly immersive beauty on the edges of town. Chicago is surrounded by preserved woodlands, sedge meadows, secluded beaches, and wildlife refuges like the Montrose Bird Sanctuary. And thanks to the hard work of the Outerbelt Alliance—a green-space advocacy organization founded by local outdoor enthusiasts—you can now thru-hike the fringes of the Windy City on the .

This 210-mile Instant Urban Trail loops around the city’s suburbs through eye-popping natural areas including the Lake County Forest Preserves and the Des Plaines River Trail, which starts near Oak Park and boasts greenery that can look downright tropical. And unlike most urban trails, tent camping is allowed at several campsites along the route. You might need to throw down for a hotel when completing the Downtown Chicago portion of the trail, but by that point, you will have earned some luxury.

camping in Chicago
Camping in Steelworkers Park on the Chicago Outerbelt, with a lake view at sunset (Photo: Jay Readey)

Access: You can access the trail from the city by CTA buses and trains, as well as rideshares, depending on your entry point.

5. The Denver Orbital Trail (Denver)

Miles: 175

trail outside of Denver
Hiking at North Table Mountain Park, near Golden, on Denver’s mega-length Orbital Trail (Photo: Michael Tormey)

When Michel Tormey, an American transportation planner, spent two years in the United Kingdom, he was introduced to the of public walkways connecting town and country, and soon he started curating his own routes from existing pieces. In 2023, when Tormey moved to Denver, he decided to familiarize himself with the cityscape by creating the —a 177-mile loop around Denver’s boundary mountains, forests, and waterways. Scouted and mapped by Tormey alone in only 10 months, the “DOT” launched in 2024 to enthusiastic from Denver media. The trail’s 28 segments run the gamut from paved greenways to steep mountain ascents with sharp dropoffs. (The total elevation gain for the DOT is an impressive 12,000-plus feet.)

“A lot of outdoorsy people often assume that being outdoorsy means driving hours away to the mountains, but I found so much to discover within the Denver metro area,” Tormey says, adding that while some parts of the cityscape aren’t going to be “pretty,” they’re still part of the broader urban environment. “There’s one piece of the Denver Orbital Trail that runs past what I believe is a cat food factory—it smells terrible, and it made my eyes water,” he says, laughing. “It’s weird and interesting and gritty, one strange moment of a big, long urban trail.”

Denver Orbital Trail
An inviting pathway at South Valley Park on the Denver Orbital Trail, Colorado (Photo: Michael Tormey)

Access: The Denver Orbital Trail’s 28 sections are reachable by RTD-Denver buses and/or rideshares.

More Urban Trails to Come, Here and Abroad

people at the end of a dock looking out at Narragansett Bay
At the end of the pathways and hills comprising the PVD Crosstown Trail, hikers look out at Narragansett Bay from the boardwalk at Fields Point. (Photo: Will Nakshian)

The atlas of Instant Urban Trails in America is growing year-by-year. In fact, while reporting this story, I learned about a brand-new Instant Urban Trail about to open in Providence—the , with its official launch on September 28th.

The route mapping extends overseas, too. In Germany, you can hike a whopping 248 miles around Berlin on the , which winds through forests and meadows to visit a smorgasbord of water bodies. The in Glasgow traces a ragged loop through 11 miles of nature reserves on the city’s south side. Later this fall, I’ll be in both of these cities, on both of these trails—for work and pleasure—contemplating how each turn was chosen, and the heft of imagination it must have taken to weave the route together.

How to Make an Instant Urban Trail

night hike in Boston
A nocturnal ramble on the Walking City Trail in Boston, this stop at the overlook shelter ruins at Franklin Park. One of the ideas behind evening hikes, often done in winter when daylight is short, is safety in a group, and another is to end at a restaurant or pub. The author is on the far right. (Photo: Miles Howard)

Creating an instant urban trail usually involves three steps.

  • Make a speculative map of where the trail could run. Go out into the field and test that speculative map, poking around every featured environment along the route and finding the most scenically interesting way to pass through it.
  • Once the route has been identified and vetted, you create a GPX map using or whatever wayfinding app you prefer. Ideally you type up turn-by-turn directions, so that people can have a backup navigational resource.
  • Create a simple website for the trail giving these navigational resources for people to download and print. You may add teaser images and descriptions, and ideally, information about public transit connections. The Crosstown Trail pioneered this website model, and other trail builders have replicated it.
  • Once your trail website is live, share it with others, including local news media.

Miles Howard, founder and lead organizer of the Boston’s Walking City Trail, is often seen leading groups through the forests, wetlands, beaches, and industrial zones within the greater Boston area (or recuperating at a local watering hole or ramen counter). When he’s not organizing urban hikes or trail-building projects, he writes about expanding public access to the outdoors. He publishes the hiking newsletter , or you can follow him on Instagram at .

man walking on bridge
The author, Miles Howard, on the hoof (Photo: George Heinrichs)

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How Long Do Travel Mugs Actually Keep Beverages Hot? /outdoor-gear/tools/travel-mugs-heat-testing/ Thu, 10 Oct 2024 17:01:33 +0000 /?p=2684163 How Long Do Travel Mugs Actually Keep Beverages Hot?

We lab-tested 24 insulated mugs, tumblers, and thermoses to find the best

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How Long Do Travel Mugs Actually Keep Beverages Hot?

For many, drinking a morning beverage is more than a routine—it’s a sacred ritual. Whether you drink it en route to the office or the trailhead, you’ve likely adopted a favorite travel mug to carry your magical morning elixir. But do you know how its performance stacks up against the competition? Instead of relying on haphazard observations and product claims, the ϳԹ Lab @ CU Denver set up an experiment to find out which travel mug keeps beverages warmest the longest.

In the lab—a new test facility in the university’s engineering department—we used professional lab thermometers to determine which insulated travel mugs and bottles kept drinks hot at room temperature and in a cold setting the longest. We rounded up 24 of the most popular products available, divided them into three categories (tumblers, travel mugs, and thermoses), and got to work.

We tested the products in each category identically and compared only the results from our objective tests. Below are the products that performed best in each category.

24 travel mugs and insulated bottles tested
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

What the ϳԹ Lab Tested

We selected popular models of the three most common types of insulated travel mugs and bottles specific to hot drinks.

  1. Spill-Proof Tumblers: Mugs with lids that typically slide or flip open
  2. Leak-Proof Travel Mugs: Bottles with a fully sealed “drink through” lid that can be thrown in a bag without leaking
  3. Traditional Thermoses: Large bottles that keep drinks warm all day

Note: Several brands use lead soldering to seal their products in manufacturing, a process still approved by the FDA. Though the lead never touches the inside drink surface, and rigorous testing is done to ensure no lead exposure to customers, this is a potential health concern if the product is damaged. We didn’t test for lead, but noted those companies which acknowledge using this method in their manufacturing process.

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How We Tested Travel Mugs at the ϳԹ Lab

To test the heat retention of each container, we filled them with hot water and used a lab grade digital thermometer with wire thermistor probes (thin temperature-sensitive wires) to take the temperature of each travel mug or bottle every hour and each large thermos every six hours. This let us get a quick, accurate temperature reading without fully removing the lid, preserving an accurate representation of real-world use. At the beginning of each test, we used an infrared camera to look for any noticeable heat leaks, but failed to find any significant enough to point out.

Tumblers on table with thermometer and laptop
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)
Temperature recording during tumbler test
Temperature recording during tumbler test. (Photo: Brad Kaminski)

We set the start and end points for what constitutes “hot” in our testing based on common brewing, serving, and drinking temperatures for coffee. Start temperatures were different depending on the category of travel mugs being tested. Tumbler and leak-proof mugs started the tests at 165 degrees Fahrenheit, considered the standard serving temperature for coffee which needs to cool slightly before drinking. Large thermos bottles were started at 180 degrees Fahrenheit, the low end of brewing temperature (found at the finish of brewing), but too hot to safely drink. A higher start temperature was used for this category since it’s typically filled with the intent to pour the beverage into a cup later and let cool before drinking. We stopped all tests once the water inside the bottle reached 125 degrees Fahrenheit, which, according to brewers, is on the low end of the accepted drinking temperature for coffee that is still considered warm/hot.

The lab setting lets us control key variables like environmental temperature, allowing us to create conditions for each category that simulated their typical use environment and remained stable for the full length of each test. During each test we used a second thermometer to track temperature and humidity over long periods of time, verifying the environment remained stable. All samples were first tested in a controlled room temperature environment (70 degrees Fahrenheit) with their lids fully sealed to set a performance baseline.

Since tumblers aren’t often exposed to cold temperatures for very long duringcommutes and at the office, we only tested them at room temperature. Samples were also tested with the drink mouth left open to add another data point to the performance and help sort those that had similar results when closed.

Travel and thermos bottles, however, are often exposed to cold environments for hours at a time, such as when thrown in a pack or set on the ground while we’re out exploring. These two groups were placed in a controlled refrigerator set to 39 degrees Fahrenheit to mimic the cold environment and stress their performance limit.

At the end of the temperature test we closed the lid on each sample and tested for leaks. Prepared to get wet, luckily no longer by hot water, we shook each sample and then turned them upside down for one minute. All of the leak-proof labeled bottles passed without a drop, making our lab tech happily dry.


Results

Spill-proof Tumblers

The term “tumbler” is used to describe a lot of products, so we stuck to those that hold 16 to 20 ounces and are specifically marketed for use with hot drinks. These are the most common travel mugs, often with quick flip or slide lock lids over the drink opening to protect from basic spills and splash black.

This convenient drink lid is often left open between sips, letting heat escape. To simulate real-world use we evaluated heat retention both with the lid closed (results reflected in the performance graph) and with the drink mouth left open (results not displayed in the graph but used as a second test to investigate the full performance). The size and design of the drink mouth can allow more or less heat to escape and affect the overall insulation performance.

Chart of heat retention over time for tumblers

Top Performer

Stanley Trigger Action Travel Mug product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Stanley Classic Trigger-Action Travel Mug

Hot: 6.75 hours

The Stanley Classic Trigger-Action Travel Mug was the standout, lasting almost seven hours before dipping below the 125-degree threshold. That’s enough time to get where you’re going, clear your inbox, and then turn lunch into second breakfast with the warm coffee you’ll still be sipping. Due to the clever design—a push-button “trigger” on the lid needs to be pressed and held to drink from the mug—it’s not possible to accidentally leave the lid open. Though the focus of this test was on insulation performance, we should note that it felt somewhat awkward and uncomfortable to engage the trigger so you can drink. Insulation was outstanding, but the ergonomics could be improved. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

Runner Up

We have a tie!

Thermos Alta Tumbler product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Thermos Alta Series Stainless Tumbler

Hot: 5 hours

Delivering consistent performance, the Thermos Alta Series impressively recorded the same heat-retention time in both the closed- and open-lid tests. Based on our lab results you can rely on it to keep your drink hot for five hours regardless of whether you leave the lid open for constant sipping or not. This gives it a slight edge over Yeti as second-best overall in the category.

Yeti Rambler product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Yeti Rambler

Hot: 5 hours

The Yeti Rambler offered five hours of heat retention with the MagSlider magnetic lid closed. This above-average performance, however, was cut in half when the slider was left open, only staying hot for two and a half hours. The MagSlider lid can be difficult to operate at first (you need to press down on the front of the slider to unlock the magnet before sliding to open) but once you learn the trick it’s easy to open and close with one hand to ensure your drink stays hot. Based on our testing, this well-built mug is a great option when used properly. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

Rest of the Test

All of the travel mugs offered enough insulation to get you through normal commutes to the ski hill, trailhead, or office without letting your coffee go cold. A few other tumblers surprised by performing just as well with the lid open as closed. We chalk this up to the size of the drink opening and thickness of the lid, but did not dig deeper to find out.

Simple Modern Voyager Tumbler product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Simple Modern Voyager with Flip Lid

Hot: 4.5 hours

This mug had solid overall performance with an easy to use flip lid from a pocket-friendly brand. But you must keep the drink lid closed for optimum performance; in our lab test the rating dropped to two and a half hours with the lid left open.

Corkcicle Classic Tumbler product image

Corkcicle Classic Tumbler


Hot: 4 hours

The Corkcicle tumbler had consistent performance whether we left the lid open or slid it closed between sips. It also offers the most options for color, pattern, and graphic designs of any mug in the test so you can customize to match your personal style.

Klean Kanteen Rise Tumbler product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)


Klean Kanteen Rise Tumbler


Hot: 4 hours

The flip lid exposes a large drink mouth that is easy to drink from but lets heat escape easily when left open. Due to the size of the drink opening, it’s also best used when not on the move to avoid spills.

Miir Tumbler product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)
 

Miir Tumbler


Hot: 3.5 hours

The Miir had strong performance for a tumbler with a simple design. It’s designed to fit securely in car cup holders to make commutes easier. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

HydroFlask All Around Tumbler product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)


Hydro Flask All Around Tumbler


Hot: 3 hours

Scoring the lowest on our insulation performance test, this tumbler will still keep your drink warm longer than a standard ceramic coffee mugwithout a lid, and has a comfortable ergonomic design.


Leak-Proof Travel Mugs

When you’re headed further afield it’s key to ensure your coffee stays secure and hot under more extreme circumstances. These bottles/mugs are purpose-built with leak-proof, drink-through lids that offer access without the need to remove the top. To replicate a cold morning spent outdoors exploring, we set the mugs in a refrigerator with a controlled temp of 39 degrees Fahrenheit. While not extreme, this is a good representation of the average exposure when considering residual insulation from being in a pack.

Travel mugs in fridge with thermometer
Travel mugs in the “cold environment” refrigerator with a thermometer to track and verify the temperature throughout the test. (Photo: Adam Trenkamp)
Chart of heat retention over time for travel mugs

Top Performer

Thermos Stainless Steel Direct Drink product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Thermos Stainless Steel Direct Drink

Room Temperature Test: 11 hours hot || Cold Test: 8 hours hot

The Thermos Stainless Steel Direct Drink bottle was the best overall in the category with its eight-hour insulating performance in the cold environment matching the room temperature results of the next best options. When in milder temps or indoors you can expect your drink to stay hot for up to 11 hours. The bottle has a flip lid that locks in place with a small clip to keep it securely closed without fear of accidentally opening, making it a great option to throw in a pack and forget until you need a pick-me-up on those all-day outings.

Runner Up

Yeti Rambler Hot Shot product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Yeti Rambler Hot Shot

Room Temperature Test: 8 hours hot || Cold Test: 6.5 hours hot

With performance ranging from eight hours at room temperature to six and a half hours in the refrigerated cold environment, this bottle is a great on-the-go choice. Its double wall vacuum insulation performed well in our lab tests, and the twist lock drink lid is a unique design solution that conveniently allows sipping from all sides. The lid doesn’t offer any visual clues for when it’s open or closed, so make sure you check before throwing it in your bag. We didn’t do any durability testing, but the Yeti felt sturdy in hand, inspiring confidence for outdoor adventures. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

Honorable Mentions

Miir 360 Traveler product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Miir 360 Traveler

Room Temperature Test: 8 hours hot || Cold Test: 6 hours hot

Matching the Yeti’s performance in the room temperature test, and coming very close (just 30 minutes short) in the cold environment, the 360 Traveler from Miir earns an honorable mention. A unique lid design uses a top push-button that provides 360 degrees of access so you can sip from any side of the mug. We suggest carrying this bottle in its own pocket, like the side mesh on your pack, to keep the push top from being opened by other items while on the move. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

Simple Modern Kona product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Simple Modern Kona with Locking Flip Lid

Room Temperature Test: 8 hours hot || Cold Test: 6 hours hot

Budget friendly Simple Modern’s Insulated Thermos tested equally as well in both environments as the Miir mug, and nearly as well as the Yeti. The impressive performance comes at a cost $10 below the competition and features a similar lid to the top-performing Thermos. This is a great option to keep your drink hot for six to eight hours.

Rest of the Test

The remaining products provided good, if not quite as long, insulation performance and all passed the leak-proof test, letting you travel without worry.

Klean Kanteen product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Klean Kanteen TKWide Coffee Tumbler

Room Temperature Test: 7 hours hot || Cold Test: 6 hours hot

ThisKlean Kanteen mug had consistent performance regardless of the environment in our testing. The flip up carry loop on the lid offers the ability to use a carabiner to clip the bottle wherever you want.

Thermos tumbler product image
Photo: Brad Kaminski (Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Thermos Stainless King Tumbler

Room Temperature Test: 7 hours hot || Cold Test: 6 hours hot

Dependable performance regardless of the environment, matching the Klean Kanteen in our testing. It’s a more traditional mug styling with a secure slide-switch lid that includes a built-in tea hook.

Stanley Aerolight product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Stanley Aerolight Transit

Room Temperature Test: 7 hours hot || Cold Test: 5 hours hot

The Stanley provides just enough insulation for quick day missions in the winter, or slow morning summits in the summer. Flip lid snaps securely in place and won’t open easily when getting tossed around or crammed in a bag. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

Hydro Flask Coffee product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Hydro Flask Coffee with Flex Sip Lid

Room Temperature Test: 6 hours hot || Cold Test: 4.5 hours hot

This mug has reasonable insulation for this category, but doesn’t hold up as well when exposed to cold environments for a long period of time. It’s better than a tumbler, but only by a bit in cold temps.

Corkcicle Commuter Cup product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Corkcicle Commuter Cup

Room Temperature Test: 3.5 hours hot || Cold Test: 4 hours hot

The Corkcicle Commuter Cup has a design closer to a tumbler, which explains the lower heat retention than other products in the group. We have no explanation for the better (half hour longer) performance in the cold.


Large Thermoses

The classic thermos has a large capacity (25+ ounces) with an extended insulation time rating and typically comes with a cup lid, so the liquid insideis meant to be poured out before being consumed. These bottles are great for carrying drinks (or other hot liquids like soups) to base camp to share, on long hikes that end with a picnic, and during overnights where you want to reduce early morning tasks by brewing in advance.

Since thermoses are used similarly to leak-proof travel mugs—keeping what’s inside hot while its surrounding environment is cold—we tested them in the same controlled refrigerator. The tests differed, however, in the starting temperature. We started the liquid in the thermoses at 180 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the low end of finished brewing temp, since these bottles are designed for transporting but not direct drinking.

Large thermoses during testing. All bottles were marked with their start time and had an individual alarm set for each temperature recording. Thermometer used to monitor the room temperature for the duration of the test can be seen at the top of the image. (Photo: Adam Trenkamp)
Chart of heat retention over time for thermoses

Note that not all of the brands in this test have a product that meets the criteria for this category. At the time of testing we didn’t find products from Yeti, Hydro Flask, or Corkcicle that classify as thermoses.

Top Performer

(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Thermos Stainless King Beverage Bottle

Room Temperature Test: 40.5 hours hot || Cold Test: 33 hours hot

The long-lasting performance of the Thermos Stainless King Beverage Bottle stood out as the most impressive result of all our testing. This bottle kept the beverage warm for 33 hours in the cold environment and for 40 hours when at room temperature.

We initially took temperature readings every six hours, and then checked it more frequently as the water cooled and approached the end of the test. When the Thermos brand bottle was still going strong at the end of day two, there came the harsh realization that a very early morning was in store for the lab techs. In the end, a 2:00 am wake-up call was required to record the final hours.

The Thermos Stainless King’s top-tier insulation is accompanied by classic thermos styling, with a side carry handle, twist and pour stopper, and cup lid to enjoy each serving without bringing a separate mug—pure camping nostalgia.

Runner Up

Stanley Classic product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Stanley Classic Legendary Bottle

Room Temperature Test: 30 hours hot || Cold Test: 24.5 hours hot

Test results showed that you can count on coffee to still be hot in the Stanley Classic after 24 to 30 hours, depending on the weather. These results are more impressive considering how long Stanley has been making this product—though it has had some modern updates through the years, the style and main body remain relatively the same since 1913. Similar to the top performer, this classic bottle comes with a twist and pour stopper, side carry handle, and cup lid to help you transport and enjoy any drink with ease. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

Rest of the Test

Our results showed that every large thermos on test provided enough heat retention to keep their contents hot until the end of a long day (or night) but not all are as capable of making it to day two.The remaining are great options if you’re more confident in the weather conditions and length of your adventure. Equally important, as soup spilled in your bag can quickly ruin a trip, every bottle was leak-proof no matter how hard we shook them.

Klean Kanteen thermos product image
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Klean Kanteen TKPro Insulated Bottle

Room Temperature Test: 26 hours hot || Cold Test: 24 hours hot

With impressively reliable performance in all environments, you can trust this bottle for a true full-day outing, no matter the season. A pour-through stopper and double-wall cup lid are included to make enjoying a drink easy.

(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Simple Modern Roam

Room Temperature Test: 26 hours hot || Cold Test: 19 hours hot

This bottle’s clever design offers something most competitors don’t: two drinking cups stored directly on the bottle. However, the carry handle is fixed and doesn’t collapse for ease of stowing in a pack. Insulation suffers comparatively at colder temperatures, but still preserved hot beverages for 19 hours.

(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Stanley Forge Thermal Bottle

Room Temperature Test: 22 hours hot || Cold Test: 18 hours hot

This updated version of the classic Stanley is made with heavy-gauge cold-rolled steel to increase durability. Heat retention is good for the category—though far less than its Classic sibling—without a large penalty when the surrounding environment turns frosty. (Note: uses lead soldering in manufacturing.)

(Photo: Brad Kaminski)

Klean Kanteen Classic Insulated Bottle

Room Temperature Test: 21 hours hot || Cold Test: 15 hours hot

Not technically a thermos (no cup lid or pour top), the claimed thermal properties of this insulated water bottle warranted inclusion in our test. Performance was average and took a big hit in cold temperatures compared to its room-temperature baseline. We’d lean towards three-season excursions with this bottle.

Miir thermos product image

Miir Tomo

Room Temperature Test: 18 hours hot || Cold Test: 12 hours hot

The Miir’s performance is good enough to get through a long day out, but may not last overnight. This sleek bottle comes with two cups, like the Simple Modern bottle, to make sharing with a friend easy. (Note: uses lead in manufacturing.)


Final Thoughts

Across all three categories, one of the longest running names in the insulated mug space, Thermos, consistently performed at the top, despite the significant growth in competition over the last decade. It’s an impressive run for a brand that has been around since the beginning; they produced their first stainless steel vacuum insulated bottle in 1966.

Klean Kanteen, one of the newer competitors, offers products with solid heat retention performance while also being environmentally responsible: they’re climate neutral, a Certified B Corporation, and a member of 1% for the Planet.

Budget friendly options can be seen popping up at big box stores like Walmart and online retailers. One of those brands, Simple Modern, offered good insulation performance when used at room temperature. We found a noticeable decline anytime the products were introduced to a cold environment, but the price and thoughtful designs make them worth consideration, especially if you spend most of your time in milder climes.

Important note: The lab found no performance benefits from the different styles of manufacturing used to seal the insulation layers. Products that use lead soldering performed at both the top and bottom in all categories.

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