Caribbean Archives - ϳԹ Online /tag/caribbean/ Live Bravely Wed, 15 May 2024 22:05:21 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Caribbean Archives - ϳԹ Online /tag/caribbean/ 32 32 Seize the Summer! 10 Incredible Trips Our Editors Are Taking. /adventure-travel/destinations/best-summer-trips-2024/ Thu, 16 May 2024 11:00:28 +0000 /?p=2668163 Seize the Summer! 10 Incredible Trips Our Editors Are Taking.

ϳԹ editors know the best places to go on vacation. Let our summer plans be your inspiration.

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Seize the Summer! 10 Incredible Trips Our Editors Are Taking.

We are ready for summer. We’ve got our lightweight tents and Tevas out, spend our free time examining trail maps, and have been outdoors soaking up the longer days in preparation for all sorts of adventures. Where are we going this summer? Some of us have plans to escape to tropical Caribbean ports and the high peaks of South America, while others are simply road-tripping one county or one state over for a long weekend escape.

Haven’t nailed down the specifics of your summer vacation yet? It doesn’t have to be spendy, and you can go with friends, family, or solo. Just pick a place that will offer a sense of wonder, a disconnect from your routine, preferably in nature, which has been shown to improve everything from our psyches to our relationships and even heal heartbreak. Here are the trips we’ve booked.

Northern New Mexico

A woman sits on stones at Black Rock Hot Springs along New Mexico's Rio Grande
Black Rock Hot Springs, located 13 miles northwest of Taos, New Mexico, on the west side of the Rio Grande, is a peaceful way to spend a summer morning. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

When the heat hits the country with full force in July, my husband and I will head from our home in Santa Fe, New Mexico, up north to cooler climes near Taos. We’re eager to stay at , which isn’t a hotel at all but a grouping of vintage Airstreams all decorated differently. We’ve rented Castor, built in 1972, our best friends have rented the adjacent Pollux, from 1967, and we’ll share a deck. Each trailer has a queen bed, a full kitchen, a bathroom, and views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains. The hiking around Taos is incredible, too, with trails in nearly every direction.

From Luna Mystica, you can walk to the Taos Mesa Brewery’s mothership location, which has a stage and live music many summer nights. Early in the mornings we’ll drive the quick 13 miles to the Black Rock Hot Springs on the Rio Grande; my husband will fly-fish from the wide banks while I soak and enjoy the July traffic through the canyon: dragonflies, swallows, kayakers, hawks, and bright-yellow butterflies.

One day we want to tour the nearby , self-sufficient off-grid homes that look like futuristic dwellings. I’m fascinated by their modern sustainability efforts but also love their incorporation of beautiful, unique design elements—walls made of used tires and earth or accents of recycled glass bottles that glimmer colorfully in the sun. —Tasha Zemke, ϳԹ managing editor

Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming

At some point over the winter, I decided I sucked at climbing. As I dragged my feet out of the gym, devoid of stoke and prepared to suck again the next day, I had no idea how to cure my melodramatic self-diagnosis. But that changed two months ago when I started climbing with the , a mentor program in the Denver area led by big-wall athlete Jordan Cannon. A dozen of my peers and I have attended clinics, trainings, lectures, and meet-ups to define and achieve our climbing goals, and it all culminates in a final trip in June to Ten Sleep, Wyoming.

Why Ten Sleep? This tiny cowboy town in the north-central reaches of the state happens to be the base camp of a massive limestone canyon 15 miles away with more than a thousand sport routes for climbers of every skill level. One of last year’s mentees called it “Shelf Road on steroids”—a reference to a popular Front Range climbing mecca—and noted how the population of the local campground, when filled with climbers, seems bigger than the actual town itself. —, National Park Trips digital content producer

Saint Lucia

A romantic view of Saint Lucia's Pitons and Soufrière Bay shows why it's a top spot with honeymooners.
Saint Lucia, one of the Caribbean’s Windward Islands, has gorgeous blue waters, thriving coral reefs, and the wow factor of the Pitons—which, though tall, are not the nation’s tallest peaks. (Photo: Paul Baggaley/Getty)

My fiancé and I are taking our honeymoon this summer on the Caribbean island of Saint Lucia, best known for two mountains called the Pitons—Gros Piton and Petit Piton. While we’re eager to lounge on the white-sand beaches, snorkel, eat jerk chicken and breadfruit, and enjoy a mud bath at Sulphur Springs, in the dormant Soufrière volcano, we’re most looking forward to guided hikes. I’m especially excited to tackle the Gros Piton Trail (see Gaia GPS map below), which is three miles round-trip, with a little more than 1,800 feet of elevation gain.

We’ve been told this is challenging, but the view from the top of the island and the sea is said to be spectacular. Plus, I plan to set my alarm for an early-morning run just as the sun rises over the sea. —Mallory Arnold, Run associate editor

Machu Picchu, Peru

A woman looks at the Inca site of Machu Picchu citadel with three cute llamas beside her.
Yes, llamas do make the trek to Machu Picchu to haul gear. There are also about two dozen llamas that wander the historic Inca site. (Photo: Westend61/Getty)

I’m an editor at Backpacker, and the biggest hiking goal of my life has always been Machu Picchu. I first learned about the ruins in Peru in my middle school history class, and the combination of hiking and Indigenous history intrigued me. A trip to South America seemed like a long shot, but I kept dreaming. Flash forward to the end of May: my college friends and I are going international on our annual reunion trekking trip. We’ll fly into Cuzco and spend two days acclimatizing to the altitude—a little more than 11,000 feet—while touring the city before hitting the Inca Trail with , a sustainable-tourism company.

For four days we’ll hike between 7,218 and 13,780 feet before ending at the famous Inca site. With porters carrying our belongings and chefs cooking our meals, this is going to be a lot more glamorous than my usual excursions to the backcountry. I can’t wait. But there’s a more personal reason why this trip is particularly meaningful to me: I recently learned that a suspicious mole was actually stage-one melanoma and was sidelined for weeks in between procedures. I can’t imagine a better place to celebrate being cancer-free. — Emma Veidt, Backpacker associate editor

Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Two men atop Mount Alice in Rocky Mountain National Park admire their surrounds above the tree line.
Mount Alice is a 13,305-foot peak accessed via Wild Basin in Rocky Mountain National Park. Anyone exploring the park’s backcountry should come prepared with navigation knowledge as well as proper clothing. This photo was taken in September. (Photo: Courtesy James Dziezynski)

My theme for the summer is: Stay local, but get far, far away. From our home in Boulder, Colorado, my wife and I can drive to Rocky Mountain National Park in less than two hours, and we’ve exploited that proximity to visit many of the park’s peaks, lakes, and trails. Not surprisingly, popular spots are often packed with other nature lovers. So this year we’re taking advantage of a little-used type of wilderness permit to escape the crowds. We’ve reserved long weekends in four of Rocky’s 23 , remote areas without developed trails or campsites, where we’ll likely see more elk and moose than people.

Hidden in some of the park’s most rugged terrain, typically at elevations of 9,000 to 11,000 feet, these zones require expert navigation skills and total self-reliance. Expect rangers at the backcountry desk to quiz you on bear safety, Leave No Trace ethics, orienteering know-how, and prior wilderness experience before issuing your permit, and expect challenging bushwhacking through dense forest. But the reward is worth the effort: the crisp, star-filled nights, high-country wildflowers, and Alaska-worthy solitude will make you feel much farther from civilization than you actually are.

Fair warning: the park provides scant information about the zones, and trip reports are few and far between. Your best bet is to download the and subscribe to the Premium edition so you can access detailed topo maps for offline use (there’s typically no cell reception in these zones). Study the terrain closely before you go, and don’t expect to cover more than one mile per hour. —Jonathan Dorn, ϳԹ, Inc., chief entertainment officer

Switzerland

A waterfall drops down a sheer Alpine face into Switzerland’s verdant Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Staubbach Falls, one of 72 waterfalls in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, drops nearly a thousand feet, making it the third-tallest in Switzerland. (Photo: Jorg Greuel/Getty)

When I realized I’d be spending my 30th birthday in Europe, I only had two nonnegotiables: Alpine hiking and cheese. Switzerland, specifically the Lauterbrunnen Valley, perfectly fit that bill. My husband and I are planning to spend four nights in the central Jungfrau region: one in a village hotel at each end of the valley, and two at the remote , an off-grid hut ٳ󲹳’s only accessible by foot through forests and wildflower-filled pastures. (See Gaia GPS map to the hut below.) Reservations can only be made by phone, a charming and slightly confusing experience that secured us a bed in a private room, breakfast, and dinner for two days for about $106 per person per night.

We’ll fill our days ascending the area’s many trails in the shadow of imposing peaks, past some of the valley’s 72 waterfalls, and our evenings eating hearty meals, including Obersteinberg’s homemade cheese. I’m crossing my fingers that raclette is served–my favorite Swiss dish, it consists of melted cheese scraped over potatoes–but if not, I’ll indulge back in town with a celebratory pot of fondue.

We’re traveling to Switzerland by car but will leave it parked in Interlaken to take advantage of the valley’s excellent public transportation (think: trains, trams, and gondolas), as many of the hamlets are otherwise inaccessible. —Mikaela Ruland, National Park Trips editor in chief

Victoria, British Columbia

A pod of orcas skim the surface off British Columbia.
Transient orcas swim the waters around Vancouver Island and have been spotted in Victoria’s Inner Harbour hunting seals. (Photo: Rand McMeins/Getty)

Last year my husband and I became rooftop-tent converts in Iceland. I’ve pitched and slept in backpacking tents my whole life, and I never thought I’d be into a roof rig until our European rental experience went right. We realized it can take us two minutes, instead of twenty, to set up or break down camp. Plus, memory foam is so much comfier than the ground, and our gear stays a helluva lot more organized inside the vehicle.

So we scored an open-box deal on a , and this summer we’re taking it for a spin from New Mexico up through the Pacific Northwest to Canada. We’ll hit campsites near Olympic National Park along the way, before ferrying to Victoria, British Columbia, to hang out at an oceanside apartment along a 70-mile bike path for six weeks. We’re stoked to beat the heat, enjoy the nearness of open water, and work from a place ٳ󲹳’s new to us both where we can trail-run through the backcountry.

On our way home, we’ll swing through Banff, in Alberta, then Glacier National Park, in Montana—two bucket-list areas I’ve been dying to check out. The best part? My husband is the king of finding last-minute camping reservations, so I barely had to lift a finger to map it all out. Patty Hodapp, ϳԹ Online interim digital director

Paris and Annecy, France

A canal cuts through the town of Annecy, known as the Venice of France.
Cut through by canals and the Thiou River, Annecy is known as the Venice of France. It’s also a recreational hub, with lakeside biking, paragliding from the surrounding Alps, hiking, boating, and canyoneering in nearby Angon Canyon. (Photo: Stephanie Hager/HagerPhoto/Getty)

I’m heading to Paris for the Summer Games! I’ve been a huge fan of the Olympics for as long as I can remember, and about a year ago I haphazardly put my name on an email list for the ticket lottery. I didn’t put much thought into the idea of actually attending, until I beat out thousands of other eager fans (a process that saw me awake at 3 A.M., repeatedly refreshing my browser) to secure two tickets to men’s rowing in late July.

This will be my third time to the French capital, so after the event concludes and I’ve gotten my fill of Olympic pride, I plan to head southeast to Annecy, a town on the French-Swiss border, for a long weekend in the fresh Alpine air. I’ll brave the frigid temperatures of Lake Annecy, stroll Jardins de ’Europe, and of course do some hiking. Routes to the Citadel of Lake Annecy and the Parmelan Plateau have already caught my eye, but like most things, there’s something to be said for going in with half a plan and figuring out the rest later. —Jamie Aranoff, Ski digital editor

British Columbia’s West Coast Trail

A woman carrying a big backpack looks over the black-sand shoreline and wind-blown trees of British Columbia’s West Coast Trail.
The 48-mile West Coast Trail, which follows the Pacific, is challenging and wild. Permits are required, July and August are considered the best months to tackle it, and most hikers complete it in about a week. (Photo: Kaitlyn McLachlan/500px/Getty)

Ever since writer Scott Yorko pitched me on the deadly history of Canada’s (see Gaia GPS map below) a number of years ago, I’ve wanted to see the area’s storied shipwrecks, beaches, and wildlife for myself. Yorko wrote not only of the dramatic rescue attempts that led to this 48-mile path’s construction along British Columbia’s rugged coast but also of sandy campsites, verdant rainforest walks, tide pools brimming with sea life, and a floating crab shack that caters to hungry hikers.

In June, I’ll finally experience the trail for myself. I’m prepared for slow miles through boot-sucking mud, rickety wooden ladders, cable cars, and changing tides. With any luck, my partner and I will spot sea lions, whales, and otters; bears, cougars, and wolves are also known to wander the shore. The salty air and marine views should be a welcome departure from the alpine hikes I usually gravitate toward in the summer, and I couldn’t be more excited. —Zoe Gates, Backpacker senior editor

The Andes, Chile

A group of skiers stop on the slope to admire Lago del Inca at Portillo, Chile.
Skiing down to Lago del Inca is one of the highlights of a trip to Portillo, Chile.Olympic training camps have been held at the ski resort, but its slopes are also beginner-friendly. (Photo: Jakob Schiller)

In 2013, I spent five months living in southern Chile. But that was before I was a skier. In the intervening decade, I’ve spent 100 days on snow almost every year. I rarely travel away from my home in the eastern Sierra to ski these days, but my ultimate dream trip is a ski trip to Chile and Argentina. This is the year that becomes a reality. In August, when the austral winter is in full swing, my fiancée and I will fly from Los Angeles to Santiago and enjoy the change of scenery while sipping pisco sours, sightseeing at the Pablo Neruda museum, and checking out the mountaintop zoo. The following day we’ll take a bus to Portillo, a resort nestled among the Andes ٳ󲹳’s famous for runs that empty out at Laguna del Inca, for three days on the slopes, and after that, we’ll travel southeast to Las Leñas, in Argentina, for a final two days of skiing above wine country. I never much cared for summer anyway. —Jake Stern, ϳԹ Online digital editor

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7 of the Best Outdoor Getaways for History Buffs /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/historical-travel-sites/ Thu, 07 Mar 2024 11:30:06 +0000 /?p=2661098 7 of the Best Outdoor Getaways for History Buffs

Ski to an old silver mine. Dive to a shipwreck. In these places, delving into the past is an adventure.

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7 of the Best Outdoor Getaways for History Buffs

You like to travel but you love history. Why not combine the two? We’ve rounded up unique, off-the-radar destinations, both within the U.S. and abroad, that will appeal to history buffs who want to take a more active approach to discovery. Would you ski to a silver mine, or scuba dive to a shipwreck? Or how about walk the length of a half marathon to visit literary sites? From geologic to architectural history, we’ve got some great ideas for getaways that will spark your thirst for knowledge and satiate your adventurous spirit.

If You’re Eager to Explore Old Shipwrecks

Hamilton, Bermuda

A group of jet skiers circle a shipwreck in the turquoise waters of the coast of Bermuda.
Bermuda is considered the shipwreck capital of the world, with hundreds of ships lost to its surrounding waters, from Spanish luxury liners to Civil War vessels. (Photo: Getty Images/djangosupertramp)

Named after Spanish explorer Juan de Bermúdez, this archipelago was colonized by pirates and its waters are home to more than 300 shipwrecks. Book an underwater excursion with one of the three outposts of to scuba dive or snorkel among various wreckage sites. The capital city of Hamilton boasts the oldest church in the New World and the oldest parliament in the British Commonwealth. Take a self-guided for a few hours of outdoor exploration, including a quad workout up to the tower of the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, which dates back to 1905. Stay at the Hamilton Princess Hotel and Beach Club, a convenient base for all points on the island.

If You’re into Architecture

Mazatlán, Mexico

Colorful buildings and home in the historic center of Mazatlán, Mexico, include Cristo Rey Church.
Cristo Rey Church in the historic city center, makes use of color, like many buildings and homes in Mazatlán. (Photo: Getty Images/Elijah Lovkoff)

You should also pack your best road-running shoes for long strolls around this historic city center, famous for Neoclassical and French Baroque architecture, colorful houses, and charming old churches. Catch a play at the newly restored Angela Peralta Theater, which first opened in 1874, and walk through the stunning cathedral of Basilica of the Immaculate Conception. Mazatlán’s 12 miles of beaches are also a main attraction, and those in the know climb the series of steep switchbacks (followed by more than 300 paved steps) to the top of Cerro Creston, mostly for the incredible 360-degree views but also to check out El Faro (the lighthouse), built in 1890. To round out your time here, stay at the nine-room , a midcentury property decorated with quirky antiques and designed with a pool overlooking the Pacific.

If You Want to Ski to Silver-Rush Sites

Park City, Utah

Four skiers pause in front of an old silver mine near Park City, Utah.
In the winter, intermediate-to-advanced-level skiers can take part in daily tours of local mines near Park City. The Comstock Comstock Mill, seen here, dates to the late 19th century. (Photo: Courtesy Vail Resorts)

At Park City Mountain Resort, you can learn about the mountain town’s silver-mining past on a to historic mining structures. Post-slopes, hop a free city bus to the Park City Museum, whose exhibits and special lectures bring the stories of early settlers and prospecters to life. Come dusk, takes groups to the streets with animated tales of local murder and intrigue. Listed on the National Historic Register and built just five years after Park City was incorporated in 1884, the is now a lavish 12-room hotel popular with VIPs at the annual Sundance Festival. If ٳ󲹳’s too pricey, consider downtown’s Blue Church Lodge, a seven-condo vacation-rental complex in what was Park City’s first Mormon church, also listed on the National Historic Register.

If You’re Captivated by the Geologic Complexity of the West

Gateway, Colorado

The red bluffs of Colorado’s Dolores River Canyon tower above an otherwise verdant valley cut through by the Dolores River.
Native and natural history—from petroglyphs to massive red cliffs—are abundant in Dolores River Canyon. These are the Ute people’s historic homelands, and 160 million years of geologic history is traceable within the canyon gorge.(Photo: Getty Images/Colin Grubbs)

In the high desert of western Colorado, you can search for preserved dinosaur tracks, take guided hikes through 300-million-year-old red-rock canyons, and enjoy 26 miles of beginner-to-intermediate just outside this small town. Stay in a lodge room or a casita at the , where you can sign up for an excursion to Dolores River Canyon to study Native rock art, sit in on a lecture about how ancient astronomy was used by the Ancestral Puebloans, and spend a few hours climbing or bouldering the granite walls of Unaweep Canyon.

If You’re Fascinated by the Timeline of Women’s Rights

Rochester, New York

A little girl sits next to the statue of famous Rochester, New York, suffragette Susan B. Anthony.
Susan B. Anthony headed the National American Woman Suffrage Association in the late 1800s, leading the charge from her hometown of Rochester. Women weren’t granted the right to vote, however, until 1920, more than a decade after she died. (Photo: Courtesy the National Susan B. Anthony Museum and House)

A little more than 100 years ago, women were given the right to vote across the U.S. Rochester hosted several early women’s rights conventions and was home to the legendary suffragist Susan B. Anthony. Visit the National Susan B. Anthony Museum and House, where Anthony met with leaders of the civil rights movement and was arrested for voting illegally in 1872, then paddle the Genesee River, ride a bike along the Erie Canal, or enjoy a beer with a view of High Falls at the Genesee Brewhouse, which is also more than 100 years old. From there it’s just two miles to the Neighborhood of the Arts and the, at the center of stores and eateries.

If You’re an Oenology Buff Who Likes to Bike

Healdsburg, California

A group of riders follow pro cyclist Pete Stetina, wearing a blue kit and helmet, up a hill in Sonoma County.
Log some miles around Sonoma County with former WorldTour pro Peter Stetina (seen here in blue) and then reward yourself with a glass of wine at the Harmon House’s rooftop bar. (Photo: Courtesy Harmon Guest House)

Sure, Northern California’s oenological history doesn’t date as far back as some other regions of the world, but its vineyards have a fascinating past nonetheless, one that started with prune farming in the 1920s and ended with winemaking. Stay at the 39-room , named after Healdsburg founder Harmon Heald, an Ohio businessman who left the mining industry for the agricultural bounty of these Sonoma County hills. The hotel has paired up with pro cyclist Peter Stetina to offer , and its sister property, , has a new “Wildflower Walks” package that gets guests outdoors for a scenic trail hike with a local health coach.If floating is more your thing, book a guided paddle trip of the Russian River via kayak or SUP with (dogs are welcome along). Or spend your idle hours birding within the 155-acre Healdsburg Ridge Open Space Preserve, home to more than 40 species, including turkey vultures, buffleheads, and cedar waxwings.

If You ❤ Classic American Literature

Baltimore, Maryland

Baltimore’s Peabody Library dates back to 1878 and is a stop on city literary tours.
Now ٳ󲹳’s a library: the Peabody, which dates back to 1878, is a literary-tour stop and was a second home of sorts of the acclaimed novelist John Dos Passos. (Photo: Courtesy John Lehr/Visit Baltimore)

Many of our country’s literary greats once called Baltimore home, including F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, Frederick Douglass, and Edgar Allen Poe. Take a to see landmarks around the city referenced in historic books—you’ll log a respectable 12.4 miles—or stop into Edgar Allen Poe’s house or F. Scott Fitzgerald’s favorite bar, . Other worthy walkable attractions include the pedestrian-only brick Waterfront Promenade that stretches from Fort McHenry, past the Visionary Arts Museum’s sculpture garden, and around the Inner Harbor. , in the historic Mount Vernon neighborhood, opened in 2018 in a site that was once a private mansion.

ϳԹ contributing editor Megan Michelson walking up a mountainside with skis hoisted over one shoulder and poles held in another hand.
The author’s preferred kind of walking tour, here in the eastern Sierra Nevada(Photo: Courtesy Megan Michelson)

Megan Michelson is an ϳԹ contributing editor and a fan of historical nonfiction, art and science museums, and any spot listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

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The Best Budget Airlines—and ϳԹ Locales They Go To /adventure-travel/news-analysis/pros-cons-budget-airlines/ Mon, 27 Nov 2023 13:00:28 +0000 /?p=2653117 The Best Budget Airlines—and ϳԹ Locales They Go To

Is that $39 roundtrip ticket to Denver worth it? Our travel expert weighs in—and uncovers the best deals and destinations to travel to.

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The Best Budget Airlines—and ϳԹ Locales They Go To

Fly to Florida for $39! Act now and get round-trip airfare to Denver for $79! Budget airlines advertise ridiculously cheap flights to cities across the country. They can be enticing, but do the deals hold up when you read the fine print?

My wife and I jumped on one of those deals a couple of years ago to fly Allegiant Air to Fort Myers, Florida, for a long weekend for about $200 total. We could only take a backpack each, and had a dawn flight on a Monday to get home. Was the flight OK? It definitely wasn’t what I’d call “comfortable.” There wasn’t much leg room, the seats were thinly padded, and my wife was on the other side of the plane. But the price was too good to pass up, and we found sun and fun midwinter.

Expect tradeoffs with budget carriers, says Zach Griff, senior reporter at , a website that analyzes flight trends and credit-card points in order to uncover deals. Sure, he says, the fares are cheap, but these ultra-low-cost airlines are stripped of most of the inclusions you expect from traditional airlines. There are often extra charges to bring a carry on, reserve a seat, etc.

Wasatch Range and Salt Lake City
Salt Lake City comes into view (Photo: Amy Pickering)

“Once you start adding in all the ancillary charges,” he says in an email, “the deal isn’t as good as it might’ve looked.

“That said, there are certainly deals to be had. For some people who don’t value these extras, flying on a budget carrier can pay off. Even when factoring in all the extras, it’s often cheaper to fly a budget carrier.”

What about the reliability of these smaller airlines? When weather and other delays affect airports, larger network carriers have more planes moving, which adds a layer of redundancy in their operations, Griff explains. A company like Delta can absorb that delay and get you on another flight within a few hours. But smaller, budget airlines often only have one flight a day, or just two a week in some markets, which could leave you stranded.

I’ve analyzed some of the most trusted budget airlines in the business, as well as some promising newcomers, to see how well their super-low prices hold up. I’ve also figured out the most adventurous locales you can get to by flying the fare-reduced skies. Here’s what I found.

1. Avelo Airlines

canoeing in New Paltz, New York
August Popkin canoeing in New Paltz, New York, two hours from New Haven or New York City (Photo: Bryan Sillorequez)

is a relative newcomer to the scene, introducing ultra-low cost airfares in 2021. The company has hubs in Hollywood/Burbank, California; and New Haven, Connecticut. Avelo operates a small fleet and essentially offers two different route maps serving mostly small regional airports. If either of those airports are convenient to you, you can get cheap flights to some pretty great destinations. Avelo does charge for add-ons like carry-on bags, but the fees are more reasonable than in some other price-cutting airlines.

Best For: SoCal and Connecticut-based travelers looking for vacation escapes on the cheap.

Adventurous Destinations: From New Haven, you can get to Charleston, South Carolina; San Juan, Puerto Rico; and Fort Lauderdale, Florida. From Burbank, you can go to: Bend, Oregon; Boise, Idaho, Bozeman, Montana; Colorado Springs, Colorado; Kalispell, Montana.

The Deals: From Burbank, you can find really good prices to any of the above cities Avelo serves. I found relatively last-minute round-trip weekend flights to Bend for under $200, and flights to Colorado Springs for $225.

The Catch: Avelo has few daily flights, so for you to get a good deal to a smaller destination, like Bozeman, one of your legs might have to be midweek. Also, if that return flight is canceled, you might have to find another way home.

2. Breeze Airways

biking in Bentonville, Arkansas
Arkansas has become a major biking and mountain-biking destination. This airline flies to Bentonville, shown here. (Photo: Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism)

took flight in 2018, serving mostly smaller, regional airports on the East Coast, but has steadily grown to reach more than 35 cities, including several key destinations in the Western U.S. The cheapest flights go through the company’s hubs in Charleston, South Carolina; Provo, Utah; Tampa, Florida; and New Orleans, Louisiana. Breeze offers some of the cheapest cross-country flights around, with three different fare classes—Nice, Nicer, and Nicest— to choose from, so you can pick how plain you want the experience to be. The airline never charges change or cancellation fees.

Best for: Flying across the country on the cheap.

Adventurous Destinations: Charleston, South Carolina; Las Vegas, Nevada; Los Angeles and San Francisco, California; Provo/Salt Lake City, Utah, Bentonville, Arkansas.

The Deals: If you live in a city that Breeze serves, there are tons of good deals, as long as you’re OK with the lack of frills, like paying extra for snacks and choosing your seat. I found round-trip flights from Phoenix to Provo/Salt Lake for $137. If you’re looking to go coast to coast, I found round-trips from Charleston, South Carolina, to San Francisco for $299. Keep an eye on their site for periodic sales with one-way cross-country flights for $29., which doesn’t seem like a fiscally responsible pricing scale to me, but who am I to judge?

The Catch: Destinations are limited and the base fare (Nice) is sparse on frills; you’ll have to pay to choose your seat, have a snack, or bring more than a small personal item. For the best deals on longer, cross-country flights you’ll probably have to fly midweek.

3. Allegiant Air

Fly fishing in Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Fly fishing in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, accessible from Asheville, one of the areas served by airlines on this list (Photo: Clark Brewer/RT Lodge)

, an ultra-low-cost airline ٳ󲹳’s been around since the late 1990s, serves more than 130 destinations in the U.S. The routes hit mostly smaller, regional airports, and Allegiant typically only offers two or three flights a week to each city. Allegiant, too, has taken “add-on” fees to new levels. You’ll pay extra for everything from a carry-on bag to a printed boarding pass (yes, you read that right). But with an expansive route map and But with an expansive route map and a large presence in big destinations like Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Phoenix, and multiple cities in Florida, Allegiant may well fly where you want to go, and for cheap if you can pack light and don’t mind risking a middle seat.

Best For: Impromptu getaways, and people who work from home or for any other reason can fly midweek.

Adventurous Destinations: Asheville, North Carolina; Bellingham, Washington; Bentonville, Arkansas; Boise, Idaho; Bozeman and Billings, Montana; Denver, Colorado.

The Deals: Allegiant offers really cheap flights all over its route map. I found mid-winter flights from Austin, Texas, to Provo/Salt Lake, Utah, for $100 round trip. From Chicago, you can escape the freezing cold with a round trip to Fort Walton Beach, Florida, for $120 in January. I like their interactive map, which allows you to put in your origin city and the date you want to travel and shows you the destinations served from that town as well as sample fares of one-way tickets. If you can fly mid-week, you can save a lot of money.

The Catch: Watch out for those add-on fees, and be prepared to fly midweek.

4. Southwest

Meagan Martin bouldering
Meagan Martin boulders Belly of the Beast, grade V10, St. Vrain, Colorado, a little over an hour outside of Denver. (Photo: Alexandra Kahn/PlanIt)

is the oldest, and the king, of budget airlines. T, and feels the most like a traditional airline—the seats recline, and there are actually some free beverages and snacks. You even get two free checked bags, which is unheard-of, even on larger air carriers.

This airline has one of the most extensive destination lists, too, reaching 121 cities and 10 different countries. And now Southwest flies to multiple cities in Hawaii. It was also the airline that was hit the hardest during the winter storms that forced thousands of flight cancellations last Christmas. that Southwest was hit harder than traditional airlines because of their aggressive flight schedule (short turnaround times) and under-investment in staff. The airline returned to normal operations after the holidays.

Southwest isn’t classified as an “ultra-low cost carrier,” so you might pay a little more than for flights, but the extensive route map and quality experience might make the extra worthwhile.

Best for: Travelers who don’t want to sacrifice dignity for a deal.

Adventurous Destinations: Hawaii; Costa Rica; Bozeman, Montana; Salt Lake City, Utah; Montrose and Denver, Colorado; Seattle, Washington; Portland, Oregon; Reno/Tahoe, Nevada; San Diego, California, and more.…

The Deals: Southwest flies to Costa Rica, Belize, Puerto Vallarta, Havana, and the Bahamas, although they don’t fly to international destinations often, or from many U.S. cities. For good international deals, you have to plan your trip around the airline’s flight schedules. By checking their , you can find really good bargains between the larger U.S. cities that Southwest reaches. Skiers should definitely look into Southwest flights this winter. I found round trip tickets from Greenville, South Carolina, to Denver for a January trip for just over $300 per ticket. I found similar fares to Salt Lake City, Utah.

Southwest is also a good option if you’re looking to escape winter. I could fly to Miami from Greenville in the middle of the winter for $100 each way. Or, I could fly round trip to Hawaii from Atlanta for $520.

The Catch: Southwest’s pricing is straightforward, even if tickets are a bit more costly than those of the ultra-low-cost carriers on this list. But pay attention to the flight times and durations; the cheapest flights could be red-eyes with purgatory layovers. I once spent six hours in Atlanta’s airport to save some money and spent most of that time roaming the various terminals cursing my frugality.

6. JetBlue

St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, the Caribbean, where you can sail, swim, snorkel, dive, hike, and bike. And the sky and water are blue. (Photo: SCStock/Getty)

Like Southwest, operates much like a traditional airline, with reclining seats in a plane ٳ󲹳’s divided by class—you can pay more for extra leg room. It also offers some free beverages and snacks, plus free wifi with seat-back entertainment. Some large carriers don’t even offer free wifi.

JetBlue isn’t classified as an “ultra-low-cost” airline, but offers tickets that are usually cheaper than the larger airlines to certain destinations, and serves more than 100 different cities. The company’s main hub is JFK International, in New York, but it also has bases in Boston, Fort Lauderdale, Long Beach, and San Juan, Puerto Rico, which means you can usually find pretty cheap flights between these hubs. Thanks to that San Juan airport, JetBlue serves a lot of Caribbean countries, such as the Dominican Republic, Barbados, and Aruba.

Best For: Escaping to some place tropical.

Hiking high in the beautiful jungle of the El Yunque National Forest, Puerto Rico (Photo: dennisvdw/Getty)

Adventurous Destinations: San Diego, California; Denver and Steamboat Springs, Colorado; Bozeman and Kalispell, Montana; Las Vegas and Reno/Tahoe, Nevada; Asheville, North Carolina; Salt Lake City, Utah; Burlington, Vermont; Seattle, Washington; Vancouver, BC; multiple cities in Puerto Rico; St. Thomas, Virgin Islands; and all over the Caribbean.

The Deals: Honestly, the airline’s flights between major cities in the U.S. often cost the same price as traditional airlines. But with escaping winter in mind, I found round-trip tickets to San Jose, Costa Rica, from Atlanta for $400, and weekend flights to San Juan, Puerto Rico, in the middle of winter for $300 round trip.

The Catch: If you go with the lowest fares, you have to pay extra to carry on a bag or pick your seat. Also, cancellations or flight changes will cost you if you choose their cheapest fare.

7. Play Airlines

Rocky beach at Mallorca
Rocky beach and shoreline at Mallorca, Spain, where you can boat, bike, climb (the place is famous for sport climbing and deep-water soloing), hike, and swim. (Photo: Austin Farrington/Unsplash)

An Icelandic-based company, recently started offering service from four American cities—Baltimore; Washington, D.C.; Boston; and New York City—that gives East Coasters cheap flights to 22 destinations in Europe, and especially good deals to Play’s home base in Reykjavik. Don’t expect frills on the long, cross-Atlantic flights. You’ll pay for seat assignments and any checked bags, but if you can handle that, there are good deals. Also cool: If your ultimate destination is one of Play’s other European cities, you can request an extended layover in Iceland for up to seven days between flight legs.

Best For: That trip to Iceland you’ve been dreaming about.

Adventurous Destinations: Reykjavik; Amsterdam; Dublin; Prague; Mallorca; Vienna; and more.

The Deals: I found round trip tickets from New York and Washington, D.C. to Reykjavik two weeks from the date of my search for $233. If you’re flexible and like the idea of flying to Europe at the last minute, Play could be for you; the airline announces relatively last-minute deals on their website regularly. When I looked well in advance, prices were also cheap. I found spring break trip options to Paris and Reykjavik in April from under $400 per round-trip flight.

The Catch: Flying to Europe last minute is a tough sell for some of us, and do you want to take that flight knowing you can only bring a backpack and can’t choose your seat?

Yes, I do.

Graham Averill is ϳԹ magazine’s national parks columnist. He will always choose the cheapest flight option, even if it means he can only carry on what he can fit in his pockets and has to catch a flight home at 4 A.M.

 

author Graham Averill
The author en famille flying budget and heading somewhere warm. (Photo: Liz Averill)

 

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The World’s Top 10 Tropical ϳԹs /adventure-travel/destinations/best-tropical-adventures/ Wed, 15 Nov 2023 12:00:31 +0000 /?p=2652549 The World's Top 10 Tropical ϳԹs

With winter approaching, we rounded up ten irresistible warm-weather locales around the globe to escape to when cold temperatures start weighing you down

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The World's Top 10 Tropical ϳԹs

As the cold settles in, we’re thinking about those places we know will have sun, blue skies, warm turquoise waters, and amazing adventures all winter long. Start dreaming and maybe scheming. We’ve made it easy for you by choosing the top 10 places to go, along with the best things to do there. See you on the beach.

Hiking along El Camino de Costa Rica in the Brunqueña range
Hiking along El Camino de Costa Rica in the Brunqueña range (Photo: Courtesy Urritrek Costa Rica)

Hike Coast-to-Coast in Costa Rica

Since Costa Rica became the spokesmodel for ecotourism in the 1990s, its natural treasures—the cloud forests of Monte Verde, the gently active Arenal volcano—have attracted millions of visitors every year. But you can still escape the crowds. a 174-mile trail stretching between the Caribbean and the Pacific, was completed in 2018 and showcases largely untrodden parts of the country, like the coffee-growing region of Tarrazú and the Indigenous territory of Nairi Awari.

Funded by the nonprofit Mar a Mar Association, the 16-stage route spans four provinces and half a dozen or more microclimates; borders protected areas; and passes through remote villages, Native lands, and more than 20 towns that receive little benefit from conventional tourism. Trekkers can eat with locals in their homes and sleep in family-run lodges, campsites, or boutique hotels set on farms with hot springs.

Expect to hike between four and twenty-four miles per stage, cross rivers, and do plenty of up and down—more than 70 percent of the route is hilly, with a peak elevation of upward of 19,000 feet. If you push the pace, you can complete the whole thing in 11 days. But if time permits, allot 16 days so you can tack on experiences like whitewater rafting the Pacuare River or visiting the Pacuare Nature Reserve’s turtle hatchery.

You could technically go it alone, but given the trail’s isolation, a guide is advisable. Five local outfitters, including Urri Trek and Ticos a Pata, operate group and individual trips, and their naturalist guides will school you in the unique flora and fauna, like purple tibouchina flowers, massive guanacaste trees, glasswing butterflies, and broad-billed hummingbirds. —Jen Murphy

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Dry Tortugas National Park: Haunted by History, Heralded for Its Marine Life /adventure-travel/national-parks/dry-tortugas-national-park-63-parks-traveler/ Mon, 05 Sep 2022 10:30:53 +0000 /?p=2598578 Dry Tortugas National Park: Haunted by History, Heralded for Its Marine Life

Pirates, enslaved people, and Spanish explorers shaped these seven small islands west of the Florida Keys. For most visitors, deep-diving into the past and then swimming the azure waters makes for an unforgettable trip.

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Dry Tortugas National Park: Haunted by History, Heralded for Its Marine Life

63 Parks Traveler started with a simple goal: to visit every U.S. national park. Avid backpacker and public-lands nerd saved up, built out a tiny van to travel and live in, and hit the road, practicing COVID-19 best safety protocols along the way. The parks as we know them are rapidly changing, and she wanted to see them before it’s too late. The Dry Tortugas is her 57th park visit.


A strong wind whipped the tops of the palms into a frenzy as I boarded the in Key West, Florida. is one of the country’s few island-centric national parks, and getting to its remote location, 70 miles due west, would be a challenge, even in good weather. I gritted my teeth and zipped up my wind shell as the boat rocked and rolled for nearly two and a half hours.

Like a mirage, the park appeared, a small series of islets surrounded by glittering, aquamarine seawater, with its main attraction—the Civil War–era —sitting squat in the middle of Garden Key, massive and rust red.

Given the gales, as soon as I disembarked, I sprinted to the shelter of the fort for a guided tour. The hexagonal structure was enormous—built on 47 acres, with over 16 million handmade bricks, the project took over 30 years to complete—and it inspired daydreams of pirates and frigate ships as I stood in its center. Our guide, a long-haired Floridian in cargo shorts and wraparound shades, led the group around the surprisingly green, overgrown fields within the citadel, past historic cannons and hallways that reminded me of an M.C. Escher drawing.

One of many hallways within the fort
One of many hallways within the fort (Photo: Emily Pennington)

The Dry Tortugas were first discovered by Ponce de León on an expedition in 1513, named for their lack of fresh water and an abundance of delicious sea turtles, which sailors ate. Pirates frequented the area throughout the 1700s, often using the small islands as a base and attacking merchant ships en route to and from the Gulf of Mexico. But real development didn’t commence here until after the War of 1812; the U.S. government acquired the Dry Tortugas from Spain and decided to build a string of coastal forts from Maine to Texas, with Fort Jefferson to be the grandest of them all. The reasoning was that, as a budding superpower, it needed the Dry Tortugas to defend one of the most strategic deep-water anchorages in North America. Later, when the Civil War commenced, it was this fort that helped blockade southern shipping routes, strengthening the Union Army.

Wandering around with only a few dozen tourists behind me, it was hard to imagine that this bastion once housed nearly 2,000 men and women, many of whom were enslaved people tasked with the backbreaking labor of erecting the huge fortress.

When the tour concluded, I shuffled off with an armful of , bobbing up and down in the choppy, azure waves as I tried to make out the odd bit of coral or sea sponge. The park was the first marine area ever designated as a national monument, and with its abundance of Technicolor tropical fish, nesting sea turtles, and vast colonies of seabirds, it was easy to see why. I was adrift in an oasis of life.

I boarded the return ship feeling spacey and blissed-out, as though I’d just been tumbled through an ocean of time itself. The return trip was arduous, freezing, and unsteady, with salt water spraying over the ferry’s hull for hours. But I didn’t care. Lost in daydream, the long ride made me realize just how remote the park was and how much more remarkable that made it.

 

63 Parks Traveler Dry Tortugas Info

Size: 47,125 acres

Location: Southwest Florida, 70 miles from Key West

Created In: 1935 (Fort Jefferson National Monument), 1992 (Dry Tortugas National Park)

Best For: Boating, history buffs, snorkeling, diving, birding, lounging on the beach

When to Go: June through November (70 to 92 degrees) is considered hurricane season in this region, and ferry service is regularly canceled when storms strike. December (67 to 76 degrees) to May (75 to 86 degrees) are the most temperate months to visit and less prone to foul weather.

Where to Stay: Before and after your trip, you’ll likely want to bask in the quirky beach town of Key West, home to , , and, of course, infinite slices of .

Mini ϳԹ: All aboard the ! This high-speed catamaran jets up to 175 visitors per day to and from the park during high season. An is one of the best and most family-friendly ways to enjoy the Dry Tortugas; lunch, snorkeling gear, and a guided walking tour of Fort Jefferson are all included.

Mega ϳԹ: To really enjoy the soul of a park, you often have to stay the night. Though reservations book up quickly, Dry Tortugas does offer for adventurous souls who want to bed down among the sand and surf. Stargazers will be rewarded: the Milky Way springs to life, as very little light pollution reaches this far-flung outpost.

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Virgin Islands National Park Is Often Forgotten. It Shouldn’t Be. /adventure-travel/national-parks/virgin-islands-national-park-63-parks-traveler/ Mon, 29 Aug 2022 17:05:11 +0000 /?p=2597973 Virgin Islands National Park Is Often Forgotten. It Shouldn’t Be.

Whether you’re seeking soft sandy beaches, hiking, or snorkeling and other water sports, this stunning park on the Caribbean island of St. John should be on your visit list

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Virgin Islands National Park Is Often Forgotten. It Shouldn’t Be.

63 Parks Traveler started with a simple goal: to visit every U.S. national park. Avid backpacker and public-lands nerd saved up, built out a tiny van to travel and live in, and hit the road, practicing COVID-19 best safety protocols along the way. The parks as we know them are rapidly changing, and she wanted to see them before it’s too late. Virgin Islands National Park is her 56th park visit.


After navigating the bustling Miami airport, sweating in a KN95 mask for a packed three-hour flight, swerving through the traffic of St. Thomas in a taxi, and zipping across the seas on a breezy 20-minute ferry ride, I arrived on St. John, exhausted and dizzy from a year of near constant travel.

The Caribbean island is home to one of the country’s rare tropical national parks, . Once part of the Danish West Indies and a hub for cotton and sugar plantations, most of the land on St. John was donated to the U.S. government by Laurance Rockefeller in 1954, with the express interest that it be preserved in perpetuity as a park. It has been a popular destination for Americans ever since but was severely affected by Hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017, leaving many lodging options shuttered, not to mention locals homeless. However, the Virgin Islands have bounced back considerably, and I was excited to see St. Johnfirsthand, as soon as I pushed through the mental fog that had set in from a lack of sleep and my disorientation at having arrived in yet another new place.

Sensing that this park would be my last chance at anything resembling a respite before a mad dash to see the final seven parks on my quest to visit them all, I allowed myself to touch down slowly with a . Instantly befriending the bartender, who wasted no time in serving me a locally brewed , I milled about the boat and watched the sun sink and the clouds light up in a hundred shades of honey and pink.

At sunset aboard a sailboat cruise, the Virgin Islands are cast in silhouette.
At sunset aboard a sailboat cruise, the Virgin Islands are cast in silhouette.

Ever the Type A traveler, I decided to challenge myself to unwind and go with the flow on my three-day visit to the Virgin Islands, a far cry from the maxed-out calendar of dates, deadlines, and park destinations I’d subjected myself to over the past year. On day two, I woke up and lounged in my twin-size hostel bed for over an hour before lazily making a bowl of granola, heading outside into the humid air, and sauntering up a random trail near the National Park Service visitor center. I passed cacti and West Indian as I ascended to a spectacular view of Cruz Bay, freckled with tourist boats. Moments later, a sign marked a turnoff for and, with nothing on my agenda, I hung a left and continued down a path rutted with gnarled roots, nearly tripping over a hermit crab as I neared the beach.

It looked like one of those cheesy postcards you’d buy on vacation to make your friends back home jealous—a thin strip of sugar-soft, white sand framed by sea grape—but in my travel delirium, this beach seemed a perfect opportunity to check my desire to constantly do more, to instead simply bask in the sunshine and salt water. I laid out my towel and pulled out my Kindle.

I’ve never been a beach person, but something about the metronomic whooshing of the waves lulled me into a state of bliss, and I passed the entire day reading and plunging into the ocean to cool off. My planning-addicted mind began to loosen its grip, thanks to my surroundings, and time began to dilate wildly.

Have I been out here an hour? I wondered. Five? Hands on a clock didn’t seem to matter much at the moment. Sure, I had a snorkeling trip the next morning, but that was for future Emily to worry about. Right now all I had to do was breathe and enjoy.

It was a mental shift I would carry with me for the remainder of the trip, soul food in the best possible way.

 

63 Parks Traveler Virgin Islands Info

Size: 15,052 acres

Location: St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

Created In: 1956 (national park)

Best For: Snorkeling, scuba diving, boating, fishing, hiking, relaxing on the beach

When to Go: Winter (66 to 79 degrees) and spring (67 to 83 degrees) are the driest months and considered high tourist season for this park. Summer (72 to 86 degrees) and fall (69 to 85 degrees) bring fewer crowds and more affordable lodging, due to the Atlantic hurricane season, when more frequent and severe storms hit the region that can result in torrential rain, flooding, heavy winds, and canceled flights, not to mention damage to coral reefs in extreme cases.

Where to Stay: I enjoyed a private, hostel-style twin room in town at , just a short walk from the Cruz Bay ferry dock. It had clean bathrooms, a mini fridge for groceries, and, best of all, afforded easy access to everything in that central area. If you’re jonesing for a more rustic experience, offers tent and glamping sites inside the national park.

Where to Eat: , full of funky street-art vibes (courtesy of artist ), serves up delicious Sonoran-style Mexican food, with a few epic options for vegetarians. The restaurant is committed to helping reduce single-use plastic, and all take-out orders are served in recycled, biodegradable materials.

Mini ϳԹ: Hike to . Picturesque and chock-full of the silky white sand visitors expect in the Caribbean, their beaches are worth exploring, and this 2.5-mile hike to both is a mellow way to spend an afternoon. At Salomon, you’ll get a chance to explore and revel in a bit of solitude, while Honeymoon features more creature comforts, like hammocks, , and live music.

Mega ϳԹ: Go for an all-day snorkeling trip. offers a plethora of different options, from five-hour trips with a floating lunch stop to half-day swims in secluded coves. I opted for the daylong trip on my visit and tripped out on the colorful coral reefs, sea turtles, and my first-ever restaurant-boat experience.

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What Do You Do Once You’ve Fulfilled Your Life’s Dream? /adventure-travel/essays/dream-fulfillment/ Thu, 21 Apr 2022 10:00:52 +0000 /?p=2564505 What Do You Do Once You’ve Fulfilled Your Life’s Dream?

After setting out on her longtime fantasy to travel the world on a sailboat with her family, one writer learns just how beautiful—and devastating—it can be to finally get what you want

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What Do You Do Once You’ve Fulfilled Your Life’s Dream?

A few years ago, I left my Seattle home of 15 years and flew to Recife, Brazil, to live on a 46-foot Polynesian-style catamaran with my husband, Michael; our children Enzo, 10, and Francesca, 8; and our dog, Molly. We would make Wakataitea our home for one year and sail her from South America to the Bahamas.

This was a dream Michael and I shared and worked toward. I’d seen another family living on a sailboat a long time ago, and they looked like the kind of family I wanted to have. At home, I missed travel, adventure, and hearing a language other than my own, and I wanted my children to experience these things, too.

In the children’s bookSarah, Plain and Tall, by Patricia MacLachlan, the protagonist, Sarah Elisabeth Wheaton responds to a newspaper advertisement for a wife. She moves from an oceanside village in Maine to a place far from the sea, in the Midwest. She marries Jacob Witting and cares for his two motherless children. Sarah learns to love her new family and new life. But she misses the salty air, the seals, the gulls, her brother, William, and his gray and white boat, Kittiwake. Her neighbor and friend Maggie consoles her. “There are always things to miss,” she says. “No matter where you are.”

When you set off to chase a dream, you can’t know ahead of time what you’ll miss. I missed friends and family and the comfort and stability of home, as I expected. But I also missed much more than I could ever have anticipated. And in the end, it was the steady companion of the dream itself that I missed the most.

The author’s family and dog gaze into the distance
(Photo: Catherine DeNardo)

When we moved onto Wakataitea, the boat was anchored in the Paraíba do Norte river, a sleeve of protected water behind Brazil’s coastal city of João Pessoa. There, I missed cool air—I craved the movement of any air. At the local Marina Jacaré, I missed feeling clean and fresh after a shower, because my body never stopped sweating. I missed showering without flip-flops. I missed knowing how to live my life, yet I took the helm as if I did. I missed the friends who helped us pack up our Seattle home. I missed my sister, Vanessa, who was mourning our departure and the loss of her dog. And I already missed the life I had been so eager to leave.

After 1,700 miles of offshore sailing north, we reached Suriname—South America’s smallest sovereign state, nestled between Brazil, Guyana, and French Guiana. There, I missed Portuguese; my ears never reconciled the sound of Dutch so far from the Netherlands. I missed the familiarity of Brazil, which initially had seemed so foreign. I had to let go of the possibility that we could still call the whole thing off. If I can get through this, I thought, I can get through anything. Vanessa and her husband, Simon, flew to the capital city of Paramaribo to sail the next leg with us. When I met them at Johan Adolf Pengel International Airport, dressed in crisp summer wear, I realized how much I missed clean clothes.

In Tobago, our first Caribbean island, 100 miles off the coast of Venezuela, I felt the absence of half my crew. Michael, Simon, and Enzo were sailing the boat from Suriname without Vanessa, Francesca, and me, because I needed a break; we flew to Tobago instead. In the village of Charlotteville, at the seaside cottage we rented while awaiting the boat, I missed feeling badass. I missed our anchorage in the muddy Suriname River. I missed getting to know a destination that most people couldn’t place on a map (including me, until we sailed there). I missed telling friends back home that there were piranhas and crocodiles in the water and monkeys and sloths in the trees; and that a synagogue and a mosque shared a parking lot; and that people from every period in Suriname’s history shared the streets: Caribs and Arawaks, colonial Dutch, Maroons (descendants of escaped African slaves), Suriname Creoles, and descendants of laborers from India, China, and Java. I missed Gaby, the Dutch friend we made in the riverside town of Domburg after our boat bumped into his one night. And I missed feeling like a sailor.

When Wakataitea sailed into Charlotteville’s Man o’ War Bay, I moved back onboard. The reprieve was over. I missed the cottage’s starched bedsheets, the cold fridge, faucets with running water, the toaster, and the wooden chairs surrounding the tiny table draped with a white muslin tablecloth. I missed the stillness of land. Then I missed Vanessa and Simon when they left in a taxi for Tobago’s international airport to fly home to British Columbia.

We approached the southern tip of Grenada on a starboard tack at dawn and congratulated ourselves on completing our first overnight sail without vomiting. When we saw 200 masts at anchor in the popular Prickly Bay, I missed everything that had come before. I missed the remoteness of the places less traveled by cruising sailboats. I missed morning visits to the Charlotteville Public Library—an unexpected facility in such a rural location—to homeschool Enzo and Francesca in a place where the desks didn’t sway and our pages didn’t flap in the trade-wind breeze.

We continued north, making our way up the Windward Islands. When we reached St. Anne in Martinique, I thought I’d miss nothing, because France supplied so much. We found Camembert, Comté, Cantal, freshly baked pain au chocolats and croissants. But I missed the joy of the Grenadians and the buses that throbbed with soca music and too many passengers because they could always fit one more. I missed the humor, the , and the local produce: soursop, cashew apples, governor’s plums, rambutans, rock figs, and water lemons.

One year became two. We lived on the cheap, stretching our savings and the rent from our house. And as time went on, I missed less and less of home.

The author’s catamaran
(Photo: Catherine DeNardo)

In Dominica, I reminisced about the first time I’d sailed here, 20 years earlier, when my husband was still just a friend and ours was the only boat in Prince Rupert Bay. I missed the blanket of tropical foliage that Hurricane Maria had stripped off the island. But when we sailed three miles offshore to deep water and watched female sperm whales and their calves, I missed nothing.

In the British Virgin Islands, I missed the volcanic topography and the affordability of the other islands. I missed the sailing families we’d left behind, and their boats: Cocolo, Serena, and Pontea. After six weeks of hosting visitors from home, I missed it just being the four of us. Yet when our friends and family left, I missed sharing our boat life with those in our Seattle life. In Trellis Bay, off Beef Island, I missed my daughter; she’d found a new hero, Mün, a 26-year-old Guatemalan surfer and artist, who was awesome and wasn’t me.

Two years became three, and we set a deadline to go home. Each day in each place became the last day in that place. I missed them all already.

In the Turks and Caicos, I missed my dad, who, with his heavy Italian accent, used to call them the Tarts and Crooks. When he died, three years earlier, my life cleaved in two: the before-my-dad-died life and the after-my-dad-died life. Now, thankfully, I would have a before-Wakataitea life and an after-Wakataitea life.

In the Exuma Cays of the Bahamas, I missed every day as it moved from the present to the past. We’d sailed over 5,000 miles in a direction toward home but thousands more from the versions of ourselves we’d left behind. I missed the life we would soon leave.

In The Long Way, French sailor Bernard Moitessier wrote, “I have set course for the Pacific again … last night was too hard to take, I really felt sick at the thought of getting back to Europe. Does it make sense to head for a place knowing you will have to leave your peace behind?” Moitessier became a legend in the 1968 Sunday Times Golden Globe Race, the first nonstop, single-handed, round-the-world yacht event. After rounding South America’s Cape Horn, the race’s last major challenge, Moitessier—who was poised to win—abandoned the competition. Instead of steering north, back to Plymouth, England, he eased the sails and let the westerlies of the Southern Ocean take him once more around South Africa’s Cape of Good Hope and Australia’s Cape Leeuwin and into the Pacific; there, after ten months and 37,455 miles alone at sea, he finally stopped and settled in Tahiti.

Now we’re home in Seattle, and I sometimes forget why we came back. I miss living outside. I miss the limits that a boat imposes on resources—fresh water, power, space. I miss spending every day with my family, and I miss our work being relevant to each other. I miss the exigencies that come with living on the water and the connection that happens among fellow sailors because you need them and they need you. I miss the rhythm of dawn to dusk. I miss Enzo and Francesca’s bronzed, capable bodies. I miss the sense of purpose that comes with making bread regularly. I miss feeling excited about a glass of ice water.

After Moitessier committed to leaving his life in Europe, he wrote in his journal: “There are two terrible things for a man: not to have fulfilled his dream, and to have fulfilled it.”

Now that we have fulfilled our dream, I miss our dream.

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The 25 Best Winter Trips in the World /adventure-travel/destinations/best-winter-trips-world/ Fri, 15 Oct 2021 09:30:32 +0000 /?p=2533777 The 25 Best Winter Trips in the World

Surfing in Baja. Summit-to-sea skiing in Alaska. Hiking in Death Valley. There’s no shortage of epic adventures to be had in winter. We’ve rounded up our favorite trips to make sure you get your fill of thrills.

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The 25 Best Winter Trips in the World

Whether you’re craving snow or sun, we’ve got you covered. We scoured North America, the Caribbean, and Mexico to come up with close-to-home destinations brimming with fun for any type of traveler—from slopeside lodging to vintage Airstreams to timeless backcountry huts. Enjoy.

Explore the Caribbean Island That Time Forgot

Palm tree on Bequia Island.
(Photo: NAPA74/iStock)

Bequia is the destination for people who are tired of the same old beach vacation. First off, it’s an island few have heard of and most people mispronounce (bek-way, if you really want to know). There are just 5,000 people that live on the seven-square-mile spit of land, and the locals treat visitors as if they’re hosting a family friend. They’ll drive you around in the back of their pickup, take you to the island’s ramshackle turtle nursery, or chat with you about life on the only island in the Caribbean that still has an aboriginal whale hunt each year. The volcanic island has just a handful of hotels, the newest of which is the (from $550), an upscale resort that feels more like staying at a family compound than a five-star retreat, thanks to its size—just nine villas, currently—and the island’s overall small-town vibe. During the day, hike Bequia’s highest peak for a bird’s eye view of the stunning Princess Margaret Beach (named after the royal when she visited in the 1950s), or charter a boat for the 30-minute ride to the private island of Mustique, where you can swim with turtles and snag lunch at Basil’s Bar, a Caribbean cult favorite lunch spot. But the allure of Bequia is just being there, relishing in the warm blue waters and that end-of-the-world feel that comes from a place ٳ󲹳’s closer to Venezuela than Puerto Rico and gets hit with the occasional dust cloud drifting over from the Sahara. It feels adventurous, even if you do just veg out on the beach. —Ryan Krogh

Hike to a Lodge on California’s Coast

West Point Inn in California
(Photo: Courtesy West Point Inn)

If you like the idea of backpacking to a beautiful, remote place to spend the night, but you don’t love the notion of sleeping on the ground, let us introduce you to (from $100), a rustic backcountry hotel with seven rooms and six cabins on a ridge atop California’s Mount Tamalpais, less than an hour north of San Francisco. To get to the inn, you’ll hike or bike two miles from , near the town of Mill Valley, on a path once used by a historic scenic railway. It’s just far enough to feel like you’ve earned a good night’s sleep, but not so far that you can’t bring the kids. The hotel, which was built in 1904 as a restaurant and pitstop for the railroad, has the charm of a backcountry hut but a few more amenitiesthink plush quilts and running water. You’ll still need to bring your own sheets and food and share a bathroom down the hall. But from the main porch you can enjoy unparalleled views of the Marin Headlands and the East Bay, as well as occasional sightings of the Golden Gate Bridge through the fog. In the winter, temperatures are still comfortable for daytime hiking and inn availability is much easier to snag. —Megan Michelson

Ski Summit to Sea in Alaska

Sea to ski alaska
(Photo: Nick D’Alessio)

When your ski lodge floats, it’s easy to escape the crowds and access untouched terrain. From February through May, uses a 58-foot boat from as its base for five- and seven-day trips exploring the deep fjords and towering peaks of . Leg-burning descents are punctuated with incredible wildlife experiences, like spotting breaching orcas as you carve from summit to sea. Zodiacs ferry guides, guests, and gear ashore, and a stable maritime snowpack means it’s possible to drop into 40-degree slopes and bag runs ranging from 1,200 to 1,500 vertical feet. Last season, Warren Miller joined to film a segment for , premiering October 20. (Warren Miller Entertainment is part of ϳԹ Inc., the same company that owns ϳԹ.) “It’s true exploration,” says Remarkable ϳԹs founder and AMGA-certified ski guide Nick D’Alessio. “Most of this stuff has never been skied before.” It’s not just about the gnar, though. There’s plenty of lower-angle terrain for relaxed days, and on down days guests can ski the shoreline in search of otters, fish, or kayak. And unlike a hut trip, you won’t be roughing it. Après sessions might involve bacon-wrapped dates and beers around a beach bonfire. Plus, a chef keeps guests fueled with huevos rancheros in the morning and halibut tacos and just-baked cookies in the evenings. Starting at $4,000 per person for up to five people, including guide and meals. —Jen Murphy

Camp at a Colorado Backcountry Ski Area

Van parked at Bluebird in Colorado
(Photo: Justin Wilhelm)

is a no-frills ski area that opened in 2020 on private land outside of Steamboat Springs, Colorado. This isn’t your typical ski resort—you’ve got to earn your turns here. In lieu of crowded lift lines and fancy lodges, you’ll get guided backcountry outings, avalanche courses, pre-set skin tracks, warming huts, and a limited number of guests on the mountain each day. Twelve new trails are opening this winter, offering more than 1,200 acres of avalanche-managed terrain. Last winter, Bluebird began allowing camping two miles down the road from the base area in a designated zone known as . It’s a fun, communal spot to park your van alongside other backcountry skiers and riders. A season pass (from $249) includes five nights of free camping. Otherwise, day tickets start at $50 (reservations required) and an overnight campsite is $25 per vehicle. This is what skiing was like in the 70s. —M.M.

Go by Boat to a Barrier Island in Florida

Cayo Coast State Park
(Photo: Leon Kung)

is one of Florida’s largest and most stunning undeveloped barrier islands. The only way to get there is by boat or kayak. runs a ferry service (from $45) from Captiva Island to and from Cayo Costa. Or, for the experienced sea kayaker, it’s about a seven-mile paddle from island to island along the . Pitch a tent or book a cabin from the (from $22)—winter temperatures here are ideal for camping, plus the mosquitoes are less prevalent. Collect shells from the nine miles of unspoiled beaches, spot sea turtles nesting, or fish for redfish, snook, and trout. Bikes and kayaks are available to rent from the camp store, and the island has six miles of hiking trails. Don’t miss Manatee Hole, a lagoon ٳ󲹳’s full of the lovable marine mammals year-round, and paddling 20-minutes to dinner at , on a namesake island, where the bar’s walls are lined with 60 years’ worth of dollar bills from previous customers. —M.M.

Explore Yellowstone National Park

A Bison In a Field of Fog Near a Hot Spring in Yellowstone National Park
(Photo: LifeJourneys/iStock)

America’s oldest (established in 1872) and arguably most spectacular national park celebrates its 150th anniversary this winter. Yellowstone is pure magic in the snow, with all the steam from its bizarre geothermal features and far fewer people. In early November, most of the park’s roads close, leaving the pristine landscape to the elk and bison—and to cross-country skiers and snowshoers. Select roads re-open in mid-December to snowmobiles and snow coaches, providing unique access to Old Faithful, the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, and other iconic park sites, as well as enabling outfitters to run winter wildlife tours and photo safaris to capture sightings of bison, elk, and wolves. One historic in-park lodge remains open in winter: (from $264), which is celebrating its 85th anniversary this year. The hotel completed a major renovation of its guest rooms and public spaces in late 2019, but staying here in the winter still feels like going back in time. —Jayme Moye

Drink Craft Whiskey in Vermont

Vermont Mountain Inn
(Photo: Courtesy Mountain Inn Killington)

At the newly renovated (from $169; Ikon passholders get a discount on rooms), at the base of , the is located just off the lobby. What does this mean? Well, for one, maple cask bourbon whiskey after a day on the slopes. In addition to tasty cocktails—try the maple old-fashioned or the spiked elderflower lemonade—the distillery also has pub fare perfect for the end of a big ski day, like truffle fries and flatbreads loaded with Cabot cheddar and fried onions. It’s the first so-called distillery hotel in New England, but you’ll find similar properties elsewhere, like , near Minnesota’s Voyageurs National Park, the in Marble, Colorado, and the , near Park City, Utah, where shares the grounds. Wherever they may be located, this is a trend we can definitely get behind. —M.M.

Ride Your Gravel Bike in the Desert

Gravel riding in Arizona
(Photo: Courtesy Gravel House)

Need a break from the cold? Head just north of the Mexican border to the small town of Patagonia, Arizona, a place calls the “new gravel mecca.” Mid-winter, temperatures can be in the 60s, which is perfect for riding. Your home base for the weekend is the (from $320), a vacation rental property run by a crew of endurance cyclists. The compound has a straw bale home that fits six comfortably, in addition to a quaint wooden studio that sleeps two. A fire pit and a fruit orchard with apples and peach trees are just outside the front door, and downtown Patagonia is a short walk away. Come for the , which takes place in early November, or sign up for the Gravel House’s guided gravel rides or wine tours by bike all winter long. Not into gravel riding? You can hike, trail run, or mountain bike a section of the 800-mile Arizona Trail, which passes through town. Patagonia is also only an hour from Tucson, which makes for an easy detour. —M.M.

Heli-ski in British Columbia

Canada heli-skiing
(Photo: CMH Heli-Skiing & Summer ϳԹs/Grant Gunderson)

British Columbia’s namesake mountain range is home to the world’s largest heli-skiing outfitter, Canadian Mountain Holidays (CMH), whose founder Hans Gmoser is widely credited with inventing the sport in the 1960s. This winter, CMH adds a 12th destination to its powder portfolio: 495,000 acres in the subrange known as the Purcells. Certified local guides will lead small groups of six skiers down high-alpine bowls and glaciers, and, at lower elevations, throughsome of the best tree-skiing in the region. is the only CMH heli-skiing operation to offer short trips of one, two, or three days, and is the first without a backcountry lodge. Instead, guests stay in the nearby adventure hub of Golden, a three-hour drive from Calgary. The town just so happens to have its own world-class skiing, at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. Don’t miss dinner at 7,700 feet on top of a mountain at , or lunch at , serving healthy, homemade fare made by Katie Mitzel, a local backcountry cookbook celebrity. —Jayme Moye

Hike in Big Bend National Park, Texas

Woman hiking in Big Bend National Park, Texas, USA
(Photo: pchoui/iStock)

Winter temperatures in Big Bend National Park, in the far West corner of Texas, are mild, topping out at around 70 degrees in January and February. Which means you can check off the park’s longer trails—like the ten-mile round trip hike to 7,825-foot Emory Peak, the highest summit in the Chisos Mountains—in a far more comfortable climate than midsummer’s scorching 90-degree temps. Nighttime temperatures can get below freezing, so pack accordingly. Plus, there’s excellent stargazing at this International Dark Sky Park come winter. For a place to stay, there’s in the park (from $16), as well as the (from $166), which is in the heart of Big Bend. Or stay closer to the gateway town of Terlingua at (from $335), a low-key modernist retreat that manages to combine ascetic indulgence with dramatic views of the Chisos Mountains in the distance. —M.M.

Sleep in a Yurt in Oregon

Anthony Lakes powder skiing
(Photo: Courtesy Anthony Lakes)

is the coolest ski area you’ve never heard of. This eastern Oregon gem—five hours from Portland or three from Boise, Idaho—is low key and family friendly. Tickets cost just $45 a day and kids six and under and those over 70 ski free. The best part? It’s only open Thursdays through Sundays, so if you show up on a Thursday morning after a midweek storm, you’ll get three days’ worth of powder piled up. The place isn’t huge—just one triple chair, a rope tow, and 1,100 skiable acres—but the base area is at 7,100 feet in elevation, the highest in Oregon, making cold, dry snow all but guaranteed. The ski area rents out two fully stocked (from $200) a quarter mile from the main lodge that you can post up in overnight. Book a yurt and you’ll get half-priced lift tickets, making this possibly the most affordable slopeside ski trip in America. —M.M.

Relive the Olympic Spirit in Lake Placid, New York

Dog sled in the distance on the frozen lake with mountains in the background. Lake Placid, NY
(Photo: bitterfly/iStock)

In 1980, Lake Placid was transformed into the center of the winter sports world, when the tiny village of 2,500 gotupgrades to host the Olympics, including new hotels and a brand-new sports arena. The town has been mostly stuck in an Adirondack-style time-capsule ever since, but the last few years have ushered in a series of well-deserved changes. This winter sees the re-opening of Main Street’s (rates have yet to be announced) after a dramatic renovation of the 92-room hotel. The wood-and-stone lodge first opened in 1927. Today it resides in the heart of the village, across the street from Mirror Lake, which in winter transforms into an ice-skating loop and rinks for pick-up hockey games. From the lodge’s rooftop bar, you can see the runs at , a burly resort with New England’s highest vertical, at 3,430 feet. Lake Placid is the gateway to Adirondack Park—which is home to some 3,000 freshwater lakes, rivers, streams—but the village truly comes alive in the snow. There’s an abundance of cross-country ski and snowshoe trails, with the nine milesof professional-groomed tracks at the being the most popular. There’s also dog sledding nearby and even a 30-foot-high toboggan chute that spits you out onto Mirror Lake. Before your adventure, fuel up at the recently opened , a delightful mashup of donut shop, hot dog stand, and cocoa shop, with graffiti-covered walls. Get the Campfire, a donut covered in Marshmallow Fluff, crushed golden grahams, chocolate kiss, chocolate drizzle. The shop is perhaps the most delicious example of how the town is transforming into a hipper resort destination while still managing to keep all of its winter charm. —R.K.

Hike Death Valley National Park in California

A rare "super bloom" event covering large expanse of the desert valley floor with wild flowers, dominated by the golden yellow of desert gold flowers (also known as desert sunflowers or Geraea canescens) in Death Valley National Park in California. The Amargosa mountains rise over the valley in the background.
(Photo: GaryKavanagh/iStock)

Death Valley’s punishing 120-degree summer daytime temperatures mellow out to a pleasant 70 degrees in winter, making it an ideal hiking and camping destination. As the largest national park in the lower 48, at 3.4 million acres, there’s plenty of room to roam. Choose from nearly 100 hiking routes leading through an astounding diversity of landscapes, including multi-colored badlands, rock cathedrals, sand dunes, canyons, gulches, and even waterfalls. One day, you’re trekking across the otherworldly salt flats of Badwater Basin, the lowest point of elevation in the U.S. (282 feet below sea level), and the next, climbing the Telescope Peak Trail to the area’s highest point at 11,049-feet. You can camp anywhere within the park, but for toilets and basic amenities choose from nine designated . Bring cold weather gear and apparel for hiking at elevation and the evenings, when temperatures dip into the 30s. —Jayme Moye

Fat-bike and XC ski in Wisconsin

Wisconsin fat biking
(Photo: Nat McKinley)

There’s a good reason that North America’s largest cross-country ski marathon is held in the Northwoods of Wisconsin every year. Besides the 100-plus miles of the (available for public use all winter), you’ll find another 100 miles of cross-country ski and snowshoe trails maintained by local groups like the . There’s also 50 miles of dedicated, groomed fat bike trails courtesy of the . And don’t forget about the other 600 miles of snowmobile trails that traverse the region’s rolling hills and hardwood forests maintained by the —the self-proclaimed world’s largest single owner of trail grooming equipment. Stay at the north end of the Birkie Trail, in Cable, at (from$119). Or at the south end, in Hayward, at (from$110). Rent skis, snowshoes, and fat bikes at or Leave it to Wisconsinites to find so much to do in the snow and cold. —Jayme Moye

Splurge on a Cool New Hotel in Sedona, Arizona

Arizona Ambiente exterior
(Photo: Jeff Zaruba)

The (from $1,500), due to open mid-December in Sedona, Arizona, is being billed as one of North America’s first landscape hotels. What does that mean exactly? It’s basically a property that blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. See Norway’s or Spain’s for reference. Ambiente continues on admirably in the tradition of those properties. Perched on the edge of , it’s made up of 40 stilted guest atriums, which are constructed of sustainable materials meant to match or reflect the red rock desert around it. Nearby Sedona has year-round hiking, winter temperatures in the 60s, and mountain biking on world-class trails. You can practice yoga outdoors or search for the hidden energy centers known as vortexes that Sedona is famous for. Whether or not you find them, you’re sure to come home re-energized. —M.M.

Backcountry Ski to a Hut Near Lake Tahoe

Tahoe hut Froglakes skiers
(Photo: Courtesy Frog Lake Huts)

Slated to open in late December, (from $225) consist of three architect-designed backcountry huts located on Castle Peak, a popular backcountry ski zone on Donner Summit, near Truckee, California. Built in a European style, the cabins have cozy bunks, gas stoves, flush toilets, and hot water. A communal cabin nearby has a kitchen, fireplace, and map room. The ski terrain in the area includes everything from steep, north-facing chutes to low-angle tree skiing through old-growth red fir. The land around Frog Lake used to be privately owned and was closed to the public for years, but in June 2020, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and its partners purchased it in a historic $15 million deal and opened the area for public recreation. To get here, you’ll ski tour, snowshoe, or splitboard some three miles and 1,500 vertical feet from the Castle Peak trailhead parking area on Interstate 80. Your effort will be more than rewarded. —M.M.

Search for Hidden Shrines on Aspen Mountain

Jerry Garcia shrine in Aspen
(Photo: Courtesy David Wood)

For decades, skiers have been discretely and anonymously creating hidden shrines, made from mementos like photos and personal possessions, amongst the snow-covered glades of Aspen’s four ski areas. David Wood, who wrote a guidebook called ٳ󲹳’s dedicated to finding the shrines, estimates that these eclectic memorials started appearing on the mountain in the 1970s, with over 150 of them scattered across Aspen Mountain, Snowmass, Buttermilk, and Aspen Highlands today. Tucked away in the trees are tributes to the Beatles, 9/11 victims, David Bowie, and Jerry Garcia. There are memorials to local skiers, like John Nicoletta, who died in a freeskiing competition in 2008. There’s a shrine to the Smurfs and to Snoopy. The shrines differ in size and style, but most contain photos, notes, and artifacts. You won’t find them all, but if you’re skiing or riding , it sure is fun to look for them in between powder turns. —M.M.

Relax at a New Eco Lodge in Todos Santos

Paradero Resort in Todos Santos
(Photo: Courtesy Paradero)

An hour north of Cabo San Lucas on the west coast of Baja, Mexico, the small village of Todos Santos feels like a little slice of paradise. The town has a throwback bohemian vibe, full of artists’ galleries, farm-to-table restaurants, and nearby surf breaks. Plus, there’s a new hotel worth the trip itself: (from $550), which opened in February 2021, has 35 suites situated across five bucolic acres of former farmland. The adults-only hotel offers tours of local farms, morning yoga, guided sunset bike rides and hikes, and taco tours of Todos Santos. Afterward, relax with a massage at the hotel spa or enjoy a shaman-guided temazcal, a traditional Mayan ceremony held inside a mud hut that acts as a sweat lodge. —M.M.

Chill at an Ice Festival in Michigan

Ice Curtains on Grand Island
(Photo: csterken/iStock)

Come winter, the sandstone cliffs in along Lake Superior in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula transform into sizable ice sculptures, tempting people from all over the U.S. to come for cave openings dripping with giant icicles, massive frozen waterfalls, and towering ice pillars. Not surprisingly, Pictured Rocks is the site of , held for climbers every February. Visitors can watch from the sidelines or get in on the action with free classes and demos (no experience required). New for 2022, Black Diamond is offering a class called ‘Introduction to Ice for People of Color,’ and pro athlete and guide Will Gadd is coming down from Canada to teach ‘Avalanche Safety for Ice Climbers.’ Base yourself out of Munising, an outdoorsy lakeside village in , which has the most lodging options. Then make it a point to stop in at or (ideally both) for pasties, a traditional Cornish pastry ٳ󲹳’s stuffed with expedition-quantities of meat and potatoes. It’s a Michigan thing. —Jayme Moye

Unwind in Colorado’s Most Relaxed Ski Town

Scenic view of Breckenridge ski resort , Colorado
(Photo: Glenn Pettersen/iStock)

It’s hard to beat for Rocky Mountain ski town culture and vibe. The quintessential Colorado resort celebrates its 60th anniversary this season, with festivities starting opening day, November 12th, and a new chairlift on Peak 7. Resort staff have dubbed the new high-speed quad the Freedom SuperChair, and expect it to better balance the flow of skiers moving from Peak 6 to 7. For off-piste enthusiasts, Breck (as locals call it) is home to the backcountry experts and educators of , and the Summit Huts Association recently added a new mountain hut, , just outside of town on the slopes of Bald Mountain. Tin Plate, an upscale pizza joint located in a 138-year-old mining cabin in Breck’s historic District, is the hottest new restaurant. Stay at (from $249), a boutique hotel in the heart of downtown. If you fly to Colorado on United (Breck is a two-hour drive from the Denver airport), you can now skip the rental car—the airline is partnering with to shuttle visitors on a luxury bus between Denver International Airport and the resort. —Jayme Moye

Treat Yourself at Big Sky’s Newest Luxury Lodge

Lone Peak and the surrounding Big Sky Resort covered in snow during November.
(Photo: bmswanson/iStock)

ѴDzԳٲԲ’s is known for its massive terrain. With runs like theBig, a 1,400-vertical foot couloir that requires checking in with ski patrol and wearing an avalanche beacon to descend, the resort is the birthplace of the triple black diamond difficulty rating. Starting this winter, it’s also the home of big luxury. (from $1,395) is set to open in mid-December, with the most luxe (and most expensive) guest rooms, suites, and residences in town. The lodge has six restaurants, a spa, a fitness center, indoor and outdoor swimming pools and hot tubs, and a recreation room with a four-lane bowling alley, not to mention ski-in, ski-out access to the resort. Meanwhile, on the mountain, Big Sky debuts North America’s fastest six-person chairlift this winter. —complete with heated seats, individual headrests and footrests, and a protective weatherproof bubble—will replace the existing Swift Current Quad, cutting the 12-minute ride time in half. The new upgrades are quickly transforming one of America’s largest resorts into one of its best. —Jayme Moye

Check Out Puerto Rico’s Farmhouse Retreat

Sunset illuminates the golden sands of the west coast of the island of Vieques, a small isle to the east of Puerto Rico's main island.
(Photo: Stephani-Elizabeth/iStock)

Vieques, a sleepy island off the east coast of Puerto Rico, is home to a farmhouse-style bed and breakfast tucked into the forested hillsides. The theme at (from $169) is rejuvenation, with an Ayurvedic Wellness Center and 12 luxe guest suites, each uniquely decorated by Puerto Rican owner-designer Sylvia de Marco. Stays include a vegetarian poolside breakfast, yoga classes, and all-you-can-eat fruit from the garden. The tiny islandremains mostly undeveloped, and the attraction here is the wilderness: its 18,000-acre is the largest in the Caribbean, with some of its most pristine beaches—some with bright white sand, others with sparkling black. Elegant, gentle Paso Fino horses brought by the Spanish roam free throughout the island. But its biggest draw is Puerto Mosquito, or Mosquito Bay, the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. Several local outfitters offer nighttime tours of the glowing water by kayak. Ideally, time your trip with the new moon, when the night sky is darkest. —Jayme Moye

Crash at Utah’s Most Memorable New Lodging

Excalante Cabin Exterior
(Photo: Courtesy Yonder Escalante)

Utah’s latest backcountry lodging option is located on 20 acres within , making for an ideal—and memorable—basecamp for exploring must-sees like Lower Calf Creek Falls and the slot canyon hike at Spooky Gulch. (from $195) is meant to be an experience as much as a place to stay. It consists of 22 tiny-home style A-frame cabins, 10 vintage Airstreams tricked out as guest suites, and 67 RV sites. The 1960s nostalgia continues with an outdoor movie screen (the site is a former drive-in theater) and a small fleet of classic cars for rent to attend screenings. A 24-hour general store that sells beer, spa-like bath houses with indoor and outdoor showers, and a swimming pool and hot tub complete the desert retreat. Winter temps generally hit a high of 50 degrees, so the hot tub is still inviting in the depths of January. Yonder Escalante’s surrounding mesas and million-star night skies make it feel as if you’re in the middle of nowhere, but it’s just two miles from the galleries, cafes, and boutiques of of Escalante. (The property is closed from around Thanksgiving until January 17th. All accommodations are heated and have their own fire pit.) —Jayme Moye

Surf and Chill Out in SoCal

Oceanside, California coastline
(Photo: YoungkKwon/iStock)

Come winter, California’s mild weather and palm-dotted ocean scenery is hard to beat. This year, a pair of high-end hotels opened on San Diego’s northern coastline at Oceanside Beach. O’side, as it’s known locally, has it all—the laid-back SoCal vibe, the oceanside breweries, the historic wooden pier, and, in the winter, whale watching. It’s also a hotbed of surf culture with a four-mile long coastline and the California Surf Museum. Choose the (from $349) for its grand coastal architecture and farm-to-table restaurant, or stay at (from $349) for spectacular sunsets from its rooftop bar (the food’s great, too). Both hotels feature original artwork curated by the and complimentary beach butler service while relaxing in the sun. For surfing lessons, go to to work with Duran Barr, a second-generation pro surfer from Oceanside. —Jayme Moye

Celebrate Snow in Quebec

Mount Albert seen from point of view with foreground on a cold winter day, Gaspesie national park, Quebec, Canada
(Photo: David Boutin Photography/iStock)

Twenty years ago this winter, some hard-bitten skiers got the idea to traverse Quebec’s Gaspé Peninsula, a tongue of soaring mountains and quiet forests south of the St. Lawrence River—and with that one of Canada’s most lively and colorful cross-country ski events was born. Today as the adventure is called in French, isn’t an actual crossing of the 12,000-square-mile peninsula so much as a week of day-tripping forays that take you deep into Quebec’s vibrant winter culture. (There’s also a summer version on bikes.) This year’s edition, which runs February 19–26 (entrance fees start at $1,300, which includes lodging), kicks off with line dancing in your muck boots at the , a cozy four-star hotel located in the heart of 309-square-mile . You’ll spend the next four days in the park skiing or snowshoeing 15 to 22 miles a day on trails that slip through the 4,000-foot Chic Choc Mountains. After that it’s off by bus to the coastal town of Gaspé on the Gulf of St. Lawrence for three more days of exploring trails in the remote 94-square-mile . The COVID-19 pandemic has thrown some traditions like village home-stays into disarray, but the entire field of roughly 275 skiers often eat dinners together in churches or halls large enough to house them all. Either way, expect to find musicians singing on the trails, impromptu dance parties in warming huts, and treats like the caribou—a classic Quebecois cocktail with whiskey, wine, and maple syrup—waiting for you at the end of the day. Bring your warmest clothes and learn the Quebecois word “frette.” That’s dialect for weather ٳ󲹳’s colder than cold. —Tim Neville

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The Man Who Wants the World to Hear Whale Songs /adventure-travel/essays/paul-knapp-humpback-whale-songs/ Thu, 20 Aug 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/paul-knapp-humpback-whale-songs/ The Man Who Wants the World to Hear Whale Songs

For more than three decades, Paul Knapp Jr. has taken travelers out into the Caribbean Sea to hear humpback whales. Now seismic blasts threaten to silence their songs.

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The Man Who Wants the World to Hear Whale Songs

A thunderhead loomed to the south of the island of Culebra, in Puerto Rico, threatening to drench Paul Knapp Jr. and the three passengers of his 18-foot inflatable dinghy, theLittle Compass. The sticker at the helm of his boat read: “I Speak Whale.”A sun-swept couple from Michigan waited toward the bow, while I sat beneath the Bimini top. As we exited the harbor, Knapp punched the engine and headed northwest, the wind to our stern. TheLittle Compass skimmed across the blue swells like a well-skipped stone.

After 20 minutes, we reached Knapp’s most reliable listening location, an indistinctive stretch of open water just west of a peninsula. Knapp cut the engine, plugged a hydrophone into a pair of boat speakers, and dropped the device into the water. “OK,” he said as the cable ran through his fingers, fallingto 50 feet below the surface. “Let’s see if we hear anything.”

Within seconds, a chorus of cetacean song filled the air—humpbacks emanating a series of elevated chirps andbellowsand downward-spiraling moans. I’d listened to countless whale recordings in preparation for the trip, but they failed to convey how haunting the songs are in person. Knapp fell silent for a few minutes before rattling off guesses at the whales’numbers and distance from us—two or three of them, maybe three or four miles away.

For more than 30 years, Knapp has guided some 4,000 people on such listening trips in the Caribbean Sea, where many Atlantic humpbacks spend winter and spring, the males crooning in competition and the mothers nursing calves, before migratingnorth in search of fish and krill. Whale-watching attracts millions of visitors to hot spots like Hawaii, Alaska, and Puerto Rico annually. On Puerto Rico’s main island, tourists flock to the west-coast town of Rincón each spring for the annual Festival de la Ballena(Whale Festival), embarking on day trips with one of the numerous outfitters that line the streets. Despite the guaranteed business, Knapp prefers the aural experience.

“As far as I know, I’m the only person who’s just listening,” he said. “I’m not interested in seeing them at all.”

Few people were listening to whales until 50 years ago, when biologists Katy and Roger Payne released the album , which featured little more than the calls against a backdrop of waves. It became an unexpected hit, selling more than 100,000 copies. In the years that followed, the album was part of a rise in international activism to protect marine mammals like whales, dolphins, and porpoises, inspiring people like Knapp to explore their vibrant vocal world. When the albumwas added to the National Recording Registry in 2010, “probably the most famous nature album in American history.”

Within seconds, a chorus of cetacean song filled the air—humpbacks emanating a series of elevated chirps andbellowsand downward-spiraling moans.

But with the discovery of whale songs and the critical nature of their submarine communications came revelations about an urgent threat from noise pollution. As anthropogenic activity floods the ocean with mechanical sounds, whales have been forced to compete with human-made noise in order to communicate.

Some 50,000 merchant ships traverse the ocean, their engines and propellers generating a din that can be heard from hundreds of miles away. And ٳ󲹳’s nothing compared with the intensity of the sound created by seismic air guns used by many oil and gas companies at offshore sitesacross the globe. These blasts take place every ten to twelve seconds, can travel up to 2,500 miles, and can be as loud as 260 decibels—louder than a rocket launch. Whales migrating along the Atlantic coast of the United States have been spared from this disturbance since the 1980s, the last time seismic surveys occurred in this area. But in 2017, the Trump administration sought to lift Obama-era bans and open up the Atlantic, a move ٳ󲹳’s been in limbo ever since.

Though scientists that singing plays a role in breeding displays, a lot remains unknown about humpback songs. Experts aren’t sure how the male’s ballad functions—it might be meant to show off for femalesor to communicate with other males during mating season. (While female humpbacks also use sound for communication, they haven’t been observed singing like the males.) What we do know is that underwater noise pollution has been shown to increase and migration patterns among many marine animals, including Atlantic humpbacks. Additionally, it’s been that zooplankton—including krill, a main food source for whales—are especially susceptible to loud blasts. An published in 2014 by the Bureau of Ocean Energy Management found that hundreds of humpbacks could be negatively affected each year if seismicsurveys were permitted in South and mid-Atlantic waters.

It disturbs terrestrial creatures attempting to listen in, too—since Knapp started his work, he has sometimes strained to hear and record whale songs amidthe increased racket of boat traffic. As we drifted off the coast of the island, it wasn’t long before the whirof a yacht engine drowned out the sound of the calls.

Knapp reached over to turn off the speaker. “Let’s wait until this one passes,” he said.

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A Close Encounter with the Real Moby Dick /podcast/podcast-sperm-whales-encounter/ Wed, 24 Jun 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /podcast/podcast-sperm-whales-encounter/ A Close Encounter with the Real Moby Dick

When veteran adventure writer Rowan Jacobsen went eye to eye with a sperm whale, he was changed in ways he never expected

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A Close Encounter with the Real Moby Dick

For a good number of travelers, the ultimate bucket-list experience is swimming with whales. There’s somethingabout the idea of being in the water with these enormous creatures that calls to people. And if you talk to people who have swum with whales, chances are they’ll tell you it changed their lives. This is true even for veteran adventurers who’ve seen it all—people like ϳԹ contributing editor Rowan Jacobsen, whose past assignments include a journey to the Amazon to seek out the source of the world’s greatest chocolate. Last fall, Jacobsen joined a small crew in the Caribbean that was filming and studying sperm whales by getting in the water with them. Though he had no delusions that swimming with whales would heal him or transform him, he was certain that he would learn a thing or twofrom being very, very close to these legendary giants of the sea. And he did.


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