Rippling muscles, knife-blade boats, and carbon-fiber everything. Giant athletes with lats so big they dwarf the vessels they’re kneeling—yes, kneeling—on top of. Arms rotating so fast they look like helicopter blades. Races that are over in the blink of an eye. Welcome to the wild and wonderful world of Olympic canoeing.

The first time I heard of Olympic canoeing, I laughed out loud. I had no idea it even existed as a competitive sport—let alone an Olympic one.ÌęI myself have done my fair share of paddling—albeit with . My image of the sport has always been a slow-paced, bucolic sort of travel. I thought it was reserved for retirees with birding binoculars, explorers on the , or kids in puffy orange life jackets eating bugs out of each other’s hair on sluggish Georgia creeks. In my mind, that’s all canoeing could ever be—until I saw these space-age, carbon-fiber boats charging across the finish line this weekend. °ÂŽÇ·É,ÌęI thought.ÌęThis looks nothing like what I did in summer camp.Ìę

For starters, the boats look much cooler. They’re carbon-fiber toothpicks painted in racing stripes. There are two main types of boats: open-topped numbers that look pretty similar to the traditional summer camp version, and closed-topped kayaks. The techniques the athletes use to move these boats are equally fascinating. Here are some of the more surprising disciplines.

Canoe Slalom

AKA Obstacle-Course Racing in a CanoeÌę

The races I watched this weekend were “slalom canoe.” Slalom is basically an obstacle course. In it, athletes grip a single-bladed paddle and dart through a man-made coarse riddled with rapids, tiny waterfalls, and gated checkpoints. The women’s K-1 (“one-person kayak”) slalom final was on Sunday, and the men’s C-1 (“one-person canoe”) was Monday. Australia took gold for the women’s K-1, and France won the men’s C-1. There will be more canoe slalom races if you want to experience my awe for yourself.

Kayak Cross

AKA Full-Contact Paddle-Fighting

Early next month, things will get even weirder. Come August, kayak cross makes its debut. This is a multi-person obstacle race where full contact is allowed. Athletes are allowed to push each other and try to flip each other’s boats. If you flip, you’re required to do a 360-degree underwater roll to right yourself. Things often get pretty physical. The Paris Olympics is the kayak cross has ever appeared in the Olympics, so there will be a lot of eyes on this one.

Canoe Sprint

AKA All-Out Speed (With the Occasional Portage)

In summer camp, I was taught to keep my butt on the seat of the canoe at all times. These folks were apparently taught otherwise. In the canoe sprint events, which begin August 6, athletes take a knee in the floor of the canoe and lunge forward to get maximum reach. The paddles are carbon-fiber, but aside from that, they resemble the single-bladed paddles you probably used to tool around your grandpa’s pond as a kid. Athletes use a short, quick stroke, which I find remarkably ungraceful. There’s nothing quite like watching a grown man hack at the water as hard as he can with what looks like a very expensive pizza peal. Even better is the C-2 sprint, which involves double the athletes—and therefore double the chaos.

Adding to the intrigue: The boats, which are also made of carbon fiber, are extremely shallow to maximize speed—which means they can get pretty squirrelly. If you’re looking to watch a professional athlete capsize himself into a river on TV, this is your time. In past World Championship events, race organizers have even —sections where athletes are required to exit the water and run with their canoe to the next put-in. Portaging is a time-honored necessity of as well as canoe marathon, another competitive paddling event, but isn’t typical for canoe sprint. As such, it probably won’t appear in the Olympics (though we can still hope).

Where to Watch Canoeing in the Paris OlympicsÌę

Olympic canoeing is something of an undiscovered sport, but the power and technical talent of the athletes is hard to ignore. If you’re hoping to get in on the action, you’ll need to tune in via NBCUniversal. If you have cable, you should be able to find the events on NBC, CNBC, or USA Network. If you’re looking for a streaming option, you’ll need to purchase a Peacock subscription ($7.99 per month).

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Yosemite, Great Smoky Mountains, Acadia 
. We spend a lot of time salivating over the national parks in the U.S., but there’s a brilliant system of goodies just across the border in Canada. Try Banff. But how many can you even name?

Our neighbors to the north have 37 national parks and 10 national-park reserves. The latter are managed in cooperation with Indigenous peoples.

As șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű‘s national parks columnist, I decided that it was high time to single out the best national parks in Canada. For starters, the scenery is mind-blowingly beautiful.

The goal of Canada’s extensive park system is just like ours: to protect lands that represent different ecosystems. There are a couple noticeable differences in how those landscapes are managed, though. For one, Parks Canada has embraced mountain biking and is actively developing purpose-built singletrack in many parks; mountain biking is not allowed on the trails in the majority of U.S. national parks. Also, thriving towns are located within many of the park borders, rather than nearby or adjacent as gateways.

Below, you’ll find nine of the most outstanding national parks in Canada that I can’t wait to visit. (All fees and prices are in U.S. dollars.)

1. Banff National Park

Alberta, Canada

Entrance Fee: $7.50

Canada’s first national park (established in 1885), is a 4,126-square-mile swath of the Canadian Rockies 80 miles west of Calgary, Alberta, that includes limestone peaks, glaciers, and icy lakes. A lot of icy lakes, which formed as glaciers retreated, leaving powder-blue pools in their wake.

Banff is the most popular of Canada’s national parks, with more than 4 million visitors each year. The park has an array of resort-like amenities, with the bustling towns of Lake Louise and Banff located within its boundaries, and quaint tea houses on popular backcountry hikes. But there’s also much pristine wilderness, as 96 percent of the park is totally undeveloped.

The 8.6-mile hike offers a great introduction to the landscape, tracing the edge of Lake Louise before climbing to Lake Agnes, where you can grab some tea and cookies at the Lake Agnes Tea House before finishing the loop. You’ll revel in views of the rocky 11,365-foot Mount Victoria, which looks about as wide as it does tall, and the Victoria Glacier, which feeds Lake Louise.

The turquoise water of Moraine Lake is surrounded by almost a dozen peaks, creating a focal point for some of the best views in all of Banff, especially from the hull of a boat. rents canoes from its docks ($102 per canoe for an hour). You can’t drive your own car to the lake, so take a .

Where to Stay in Banff

You have your pick of scenic and historic lodges, but for a treat check out , dubbed a “castle in the Rockies,” with high-end digs on the edge of the town of Banff (from $595 a night).

Campers should head to , with 116 sites and amenities like sheltered camp kitchens with wood-burning stoves. It’s first-come, first-served ($18 a night).

2. Jasper National Park

Alberta, Canada

Entrance Fee: $8

shares a border with Banff, with the 144-mile Icefields Parkway running between the two landscapes. Jasper is the larger of the two, spanning 6,835 square miles of prime Canadian Rockies real estate in the middle of nowhere. This means you have to really want to visit Jasper, which is a four-hour drive west from Alberta’s capital city of Edmonton, or a five-hour drive northwest from Calgary. The trip is well worth it, as the park is loaded with towering cliffs, high peaks, deep canyons, and waterfalls fed by glaciers. The town of Jasper is the hub of activity and perfect basecamp, as roads and trails extend from there into the mountains.

Towards the southern border of the park, the Columbia Icefield covers more than 186 square miles along the Continental Divide. The Athabasca Glacier flows down from this massive icefield, giving day hikers a chance to explore the actively changing landscape. You can hike the 2.4-mile out-and-back to the edge of the ice, but to truly explore the area you can sign up for a guided tour. leads a guided 4.5-hour hike on the Athabasca Glacier with a sustainability focus ($128 per person).

Jasper is loaded with scenic treks, but the begins and ends at a hot-springs resort. The five-mile out-and-back hike climbs to the summit of Sulphur Ridge, ascending through a spruce fir forest via a series of switchbacks until you crest above the tree line to panoramic views that include the Fiddle River Valley below and Utopia Mountain in the distance. Retrace your steps to soak in , a developed series of pools with temps that reach 104 degrees ($13 per person).

Where to Stay Near Jaspers National Park

is the closest campground to the town of Jasper, making it an easy base of operations. It’s large, with 781 sites, and recently renovated with improved sites and brand-new bathroom and shower facilities. You can make starting in January of each year (from $22 U.S. per night).

3. Gros Morne National Park

Newfoundland

Entrance Fee: $8

You want fjords? has fjords. On the western edge of the island of Newfoundland, Gros Morne is a blissful mix of soaring fjord walls, towering mountains, and the bizarre Tablelands, where the earth’s mantle is exposed in an expanse of orange rock, the remnant of a tectonic plate shift that pushed the earth’s crust upward. The 1,121-square-mile park rises from the freshwater Gulf of St. Lawrence and is split by Bonne Bay into two sections, northern and southern, with a ferry running between. Rocky Harbour is home to the visitors’ center and launching spot for most adventures.

Western Brook Pond, a landlocked freshwater fjord with 2,000-foot walls and the occasional waterfall, should be the first stop. Hiking the 9.1-mile loop, which passes through meadows along the coastal headland, is also a must. Drop down to the shore at Old Man Cove, where the beach is flanked by cliffs and waterfalls, and a sea cave is tucked into the rock walls.

Where to Stay Near Gros Morne National Park

has 38 sites in an evergreen forest, with views of the Tablelands in the south side of the park ($21 per night, advance reservations). The campground has quick access to Trout River Pond, a fjord lake (a body of water separated from the Gulf of St. Lawrence) banked by steep cliffs on one side and a forested plateau on the other.

4. Kluane National Park and Reserve

Yukon

Entrance Fee: Free

In the southwest corner of the Yukon Territory, the 8,499-square-mile is a peak-bagger’s dream, encompassing 17 of Canada’s 20 highest mountains, including the country’s tallest, the 19,551-foot Mount Logan. Here, too, are the largest non-polar ice fields in the world, forming glaciers that fill the valleys, turning into rivers as they flow east, feeding lakes and sustaining habitat where caribou, wolves, bears, and mountain goats roam on the eastern edge of the park. The Haynes Highway and Alaska Highway traverse the eastern boundary, providing access to the visitors’ center, front-country trailheads, and campgrounds.

Hike the six-mile out-and-back which follows the edge of Kathleen Lake before climbing up on switchbacks to the saddle of a cirque overlooking the lake.

Where to Stay Near Kluane National Park and Reserve

Campers should head to , which has 38 sites within walking distance of the lake of the same name. Campground availability is a mix of first-come, first-served sites and others you can reserve in advance ($20 per night).

5. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

British Columbia

Fee: $8

Covering 126,500 acres of the west coast of Vancouver Island, in British Columbia, is really three parks in one, with distinct units. The Long Beach Unit is accessible by car and is loaded with sandy beaches and surfing, while the Broken Group Islands Unit encompasses more than 100 islands within the Barkley Sound, only reachable by boat.

The third unit, the West Coast Trail, features the 47-mile footpath of the same name. Most visitors stick to the Long Beach Unit, but wherever you end up, you can expect dense rainforest full of Sitka spruce and hemlock and mountains rising to the east, while the tumultuous Pacific dominates the west. Bring a rain jacket; summers are warm but wet.

In the Long Beach Unit, hike the 1.1-mile to sample this section’s terrain, as the path moves through dense forest to cliffs to a sandy beach. The surf is gentle in the summer, well-suited for beginner and intermediate surfers. The beach at Incinerator Rock has been a surf destination since the ‘60s and has the most beginner-friendly waves in the park. runs lessons and rentals out of the town of Ucluelet (group lessons from $95 a person, rentals from $33 a day).

Where to Stay Near Pacific Rim National Park and Reserve

Snag a spot at the park’s only front-country campground, , which has a mix of drive-in and walk-in sites among the spruce (from $22 a night).

6. Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Nova Scotia

Fee: $7

The mountains tumble straight down to the sea in Cape Breton Highlands, on the northern tip of Nova Scotia. The park covers an elevated plateau full of forested river canyons and isolated beaches, stretching between the Atlantic Ocean to the east and the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the west. Inside Cape Breton Highlands you’ll find a particularly scenic portion of the 186-mile Cabot Trail, a paved two-lane road circumnavigating the park on its way around Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Island, offering a variety of overlooks with views of the rocky cliffs of La Bloc and the Fishing Cove, an inlet at the base of MacKenzie Mountain.

Make time to hike , a 5.1-mile loop along a headland cliff that ends at an overlook above the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where you can occasionally spot whales. The 4.6-mile loop is a slightly shorter but tougher outing, climbing more than 1,000 feet to views of a forested canyon and the Atlantic coastline. Watch out for moose on this trail; they cause more injuries in Canadian national parks than bears. Keep your distance (for long-range photo advice, see this șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű guide).

Where to Stay in Cape Breton Highlands National Park

There are eight campgrounds inside the park, but will put you within walking distance of a beach where you can swim. The campground is small, with just 22 sites (from $14.50 per night).

7. Riding Mountain National Park

Manitoba

Entrance Fee: $7

Manitoba is like Canada’s version of our Midwest, full of rolling plains and farmland. It’s a more subtle type of beauty—no massive cliffs or towering peaks—but there is elegance in those shimmering plains. encapsulates the best of that landscape, with 1,864 square miles of grasslands, lakes, wetlands, and forests choked with spruce, birch, and poplar. The fertile fields and oasis-like lakes attract an astounding array of wildlife. Parks Canada estimates there are roughly 1,000 black bears and three times as many moose; there are also cougars, lynx, and wolves.

Clear Lake is the epicenter of action, with the resort-like town of Wasagaming dominating the southern shore. Most visitors start and stop right there. But more than 1,900 lakes and 250 miles of hiking trails are spread throughout the park. For a quick jaunt, cruise through the one-mile Ominik Marsh Trail, a floating boardwalk through wetlands with a healthy population of beavers. For the big picture, hike , a 6.9-mile out-and-back including a .4-mile side hike up to the top of Bald Hill, a knob of loose, tan rock with the best view in the park, overlooking the hardwood spruce mixed forest at your feet and plains rolling to the horizon.

Want to see some wildlife? You have a good chance of seeing bear and moose all over the park, but for bison, head to Lake Audy, where a 40-strong herd lives in a 500-hectare enclosure. They’re descendants of a group that was introduced to the park from Elk Island National Park in the 1940s. The Lake Audy area, where the herd of bison live, has been closed since October 2023 because of roadwork, but according to , that closure should be lifted this month.

Where to Stay in Riding Mountain National Park

Pitch a tent at , where 14 walk-in tent sites have views of Whirlpool Lake (from $13 per night, reserve in advance), a grassy-edged body of water tucked into a spruce forest that’s a known hot spot for wildlife.

8. Auyuittuq National Park

Nunavit

Entrance Fee: $12

What sort of terrain will you find inside ? Here’s a clue: The name is Inuktitut for “the land that never melts.” Auyuittuq is located on the southern end of Baffin Island, protecting a small slice of the Arctic Circle. It’s a frozen tundra throughout winter, but come July and August, the ice and snow melt, revealing a park full of towering granite peaks, glaciers, and river valleys, while the edges of the island are marked with deep fjords.

It’s not an easy park to access. There are no roads or even designated trails inside the park, but provides scheduled flights from Montreal, Ottawa, and Yellowknife to the gateway town of Pangnirtung. From there, you can take a 45-minute boat ride to the park proper.

Pangnirtung will be your home base for exploration. The small outpost is home to the park visitor center, as well as local outfitters that offer trips into the park. Most people stick to the Akshayuk Pass area, a 60-mile corridor between mountains and glaciers, which takes up to two weeks to trek in full. There are no marked trails, but nine emergency shelters are spread a day apart each, and most people use landmarks like lakes and peaks to guide themselves through the area. The southern portion of the Akshayuk, from Overlord Peak to Summit Lake, is a popular five-day trek. , in Pangnirtung, can help with shuttles, trip planning, or guiding.

If you show up in the spring before temperatures rise, you can also take a guided from Pangnirtung into the Arctic Circle proper.The full-day adventure has Parks Canada staff interpreting the landscape and Inuit culture for you ($225 per person, minimum four people).

Where to Say Near Auyuittuq National Park

The park has no developed campgrounds, but there are a couple of hotels in Pangnirtung. The is small, with just three rooms and views of the fjord ($182 a night).

9. Bruce Peninsula National Park

Ontario

Entrance Fee: $7, kids 17 and under free

Covering the northern tip of a strip of land that separates the Georgian Bay from greater Lake Huron, protects 96 square miles of the Niagara Escarpment. Here water meets rock, full of limestone cliffs, rocky beaches, caves, rivers, and some of the oldest trees in Canada: white cedar trees living atop the cliffs believed to be more than 1,300 years old.

Head to the Lake Huron side of the peninsula to explore Singing Sands Beach, where dunes flank a sandy shore ideal for swimming. The Grotto, a limestone cave that opens up to the turquoise water of the Georgian Bay, is the most popular destination in the park. Indian Head Cove, also on the Georgian Bay side of the park, hasÌę access to cliffs and beach as well. From April 30 to October 31 you’ll (parking is $12, with reservations an additional $9). Again, reservations are required, and once the lots are full, visiting the shores and trails is not possible, so plan ahead (and know that autumn is less busy than summer). The beach at has a collection of boulders now managed as a designated bouldering area, where you can climb with the aqua-blue waters of Georgian Bay in the background.

Where to Stay Near Bruce Peninsula National Park Ìę

Book a spot at , and you can bypass the parking reservation system for the Grotto by hiking to it from your campsite. The campground has 232 sites with access to Cyprus Lake, which has multiple canoe launches. It’s a popular campground, so make reservations early ($35 a night).Ìę

10. Fundy National Park

New Brunswick

Entrance Fee: $7

isn’t large—it covers just 50,900 acres on New Brunswick’s east coast—but it packs in a lot of highlights. At the heart of the park is the Bay of Fundy, famous for the greatest tidal-shift differential in the world, where you can walk the mudflats of the ocean floor during low tide, while that same spot will later fill with 50 feet of water during high tide.

At Hopewell Rocks Park, just outside the national park, a series of sea stacks on the ocean floor are exposed during low tide and then almost fully submerged again. The Bay of Fundy might earn top billing (it’s considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of North America), but there is much more to this park. Miles of rugged coast hem in a dense forest of spruce, fir, maples, and birch trees, not to mention 25 waterfalls, and bogs that hold carnivorous plants.

Experience the tidal shift first hand at , in the Bay of Fundy, where you can wade through the mud searching for crustaceans, but for another perspective on the park’s grandeur, hike the 12-mile out-and-back , which traces the Fundy cliff line, traveling through spruce forest between many overlooks. The trail also drops down to Herring Cove, where you can explore a beach and sea caves.

Where to Stay Near Fundy National Park

Pitch your tent at , which has 155 sites you can reserve in advance (from $21 per night), and hike from there to the Point Wolfe Beach for a swim.

A note: Wildfires are a concern during the summer in Canada, as they are in the Western U.S. Stay on potential impacts to a park you’re hoping to visit and on any open-fire bans. None of the parks on this list are currently under serious threat.

Graham Averill is șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű magazine’s national-parks columnist. He’s been steadily ticking off parks in his home country, and is now expanding north.

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From lightweight packrafts that weigh less than some tents to whitewater rigs that can take on the gnarliest rapids, there are hundreds of different types of boats on the market these days. Last year, we tested canoes, kayaks, rafts, and everything in between from Colorado’s rivers to Florida’s estuaries. Below you’ll find a sampling of some of the best paddle craft for hitting the water in 2024.

Be sure to check out our favorite boardshorts and women’s swimsuits as well.

At a Glance

• Best Raft:
• Best Canoe:
• Best Packraft:
• Best Whitewater Kayak:
• Best Recreational Kayak:
• Best Fishing Kayak:
• How to Choose a Boat
• How We Test
• Meet Our Lead Tester

All gear in this guide was tested by multiple reviewers. If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more.

Best Raft

Sotar Rogue Argo

Length: 12 ft
Exterior Width: 68 in
Tube Diameter: 21 to 17 in
Air Chambers: 4 (including thwarts)
Capacity: 675 lbs
Weight: 60 lbs

Pros and Cons
⊕ Nimble enough to get through creeks while also big enough for the biggest rapids
⊕ Diminishing tubes makes it extremely responsive
⊗ The guide position is hard to get used to if you have three people paddling

Taking advantage of the growing small inflatable market, Sotar set out to make the ultimate R2/R3 raft (which means it can carry two or three paddlers) and came up with its new Rogue Argo, a 12-footer that paddles like a paddle cat but has a floor like a raft. The result is a craft that’s small and nimble enough to charge creeks while beefy enough to run meaty Class IV-V rapids, like on the Gauley River in West Virginia. Diminishing tubes in the front (but not the stern), two thwarts, and a weight of only 60 pounds—lighter than some of the 10-footers on the market—are just a few of the features that had our testers sold. It’s so light that it turns your strokes into speed when you need it most and lets you cartop or shoulder-carry it single-handedly. All these features make for a craft that dishes up the same fun as a paddle cat but with a raft’s space and buoyancy.

That said, don’t assume the Rogue Argo is just a shrunken-down expedition raft. The durable RF-welded urethane construction and new design features are built specifically for the category. Perhaps the raft’s most noticeable feature is its diminishing tubes, whose diameters are smaller up front and larger in the stern (17 inches to 21 inches). “It creates additional rocker which lets you go up and over oncoming features while keeping the back buoyant,” said tester Aaron Ball, a Swiftwater Rescue instructor for Colorado’s Southwest Rescue. “It was super responsive for two people, tracked well, and took hits with ease. The Reverse Mullet might have been a better name for it.”

A mesh floor keeps the weight down while draining water quickly, maintaining buoyancy. While water can enter it in wave trains, it sits up high and out of the water most of the time thanks to cam straps securing the mash to the thwarts. It also drains fast—our testers on Colorado’s Animas River found it dryer than expected. “Its mesh was great—it didn’t let much water through and made the boat lighter for an already small craft,” Ball said. His only concern: “With frigid water temps, it could lead to cold feet.”

The two thwarts and grab handles were ideal for holding on when the going got rough. The thwart spacing is adjustable, which made it easier for testers to lock their feet in. “It’s nice that two thwarts are included,” said tester and former international guide Miles DeFeyter. “A lot of rafts don’t have that. And the grab handles are awesome—I held onto them several times—this thing was made to run the gnar.”

The only knock? Paddling it as an R3. “The guide position takes a little getting used to,” added Ball. “Sitting on top of the 21-inch tube feels a bit different than the standard 19-inch of a classic raft. It takes a while to figure out what position feels most comfortable to guide from.”

Best Canoe

Esquif Huron 15

Length: 15 ft.
Width: 35 in.
Weight: 55 lbs.

Pros and Cons
⊕ Durable material so it doesn’t get dings easily
⊗ Can’t be loaded with too much gear, or it becomes sluggish

It’s rare for a new canoe to hit the shelves, but Esquif’s new Huron 15 impressed testers enough last fall to make this year’s cut. It can be paddled solo or in tandem and has a hull based on its popular Prospector design, but trimmed slightly lower from 14.5 inches to 12.5 inches—making it more sporty and less susceptible to wind. It’s designed for cottagers and recreational paddlers who want a solid canoe for calm water and small rivers but don’t need the depth and capacity of the Prospector.

Tester Nick Hinds took it out with his son, Finn, on Washington’s Cottage Lake, putting it through its paces on a quiet morning with glassy water and moody skis. “I could load it by myself—which is hard with most canoes—and I could paddle it solo or with my son,” he said, calling it agile and forgiving. “It seemed like the hull knew where I wanted it to go.” Hinds also prized its efficiency. “Each stroke was felt instantly,” he said. “It carved turns right when needed and tracked when we needed to go straight. And while limiting its use on whitewater, its low sidewall prevents it from being blown off course.”

The only drawback Hind noted was its carrying capacity. “Perfect for mild moving water—as long as it’s not loaded too heavily,” he said, explaining that it was best for two lighter people or one heavy person, and not too much gear. As for outfitting, the webbing seats “were comfortable” and the ash yoke “formed well for one-person carrying.”

Tester Alan Schmidt, who owns eight canoes and has been paddling for 40 years, put it through its paces on Washington’s low-water Class I-II Skykomish with not a child, but his 80-pound Labrador, who had no trouble centering his weight. Schmidt said that despite the Esquif 15’s rock and log dodging, the canoe tracked well, requiring “minimal correction strokes,” and was responsive to sharp turns. He also appreciated the seat height and tumblehome (the inward curve of the hull above the waterline), which “allows for easy and efficient solo paddling.”

Best of all, testers don’t need to worry about dings. It’s made from T-Formex a layered plastic with flotation and abrasion resistance, which has supplanted Royalex. Schmidt loved the material, especially on the unavoidable submerged rocks. “It slid over them easily instead of sticking, as some composite materials do.”

Still, Schmift did manage to flip the Esquif 15 in the tight confines of the canyon, putting him and his dog into the drink. Luckily, they had no trouble getting back in. “The recovery was simple and easy due to the positive buoyancy and the handles on each end,” he said.

Best Pack Raft

Alpacka Refuge

Length: 87 in. (medium)
Width: 34.5 in. (medium)
Weight: 6.7 lbs (medium)

Pros and Cons
⊕ Super lightweight but very river-worthy as well
⊕ Re-rigging time takes just five minutes
⊗ Might replace all your other rafts

Devotees of uber-lightweight backcountry craft with whitewater chops, rejoice: Alpacka’s new 2024 Refuge will have you re-thinking where you can paddle, whether you’re shouldering it to a high-alpine fishing lake, accessing remote rivers, or even bikepacking with it as part of your shuttle.

This packraft combines features of its earlier Refuge and whitewater version into one model, checking all the boxes for exploring wilderness waterways. Already known for its material’s bombproofness, Alpacka upgraded the new version to a beefier 840-denier nylon, along with a 210-denier high-count nylon hull. Now available in medium (7 feet 3 inches long) and large models (7 and a half feet and 5 inches long), it also comes standard with a backband, inflatable whitewater foot brace, and two-point thigh straps to hold you in when the going gets rough.

We tested it on the rivers and lakes of Northwest Colorado, assessing its whitewater mettle and its packability. First off, the weight comes to just 6.7 pounds for the medium (barely more than a three-person tent), making it easy to carry. It’s also fit onto the outside of our daypack easily, with plenty of weight to spare for beer, bread, and Brie. After carrying it into Jonah, Whale, and Martha lakes, we were also impressed with its game-changing cargo fly and airtight zipper that lets you stash gear inside the tubes, keeping it out of the way and your center of gravity low for added stability. “You just have to make sure you load it evenly so it’s not lopsided,” said one tester. Deflating it between lakes, we had the re-rigging time down to just five minutes. Simply roll it out, insert the nozzle of the micro-weight bellows bag, fill ‘er up with a pump, and top it off by blowing.

Another tester took it on the nearby Class II+ Colorado River, sussing out its whitewater cred by assessing the thigh straps, backband, footbrace, and sprayskirt, which attaches to a PVC rim. In the Eye of the Needle rapid, it slipped into the scouting eddy effortlessly and easily punched through the wave train. “It rode up and over the waves like a raft,” he said. “And the skirt kept all the splashes out.” The beefier floor shrugged off all abrasions, including a bottom-dragging landing.

Tester Dan Ransom, a 6’1” packrafter who paddles 60 days a year, took it out on Oregon’s Class II-III Rogue River and appreciated its river worthiness and roominess. “The whitewater rigging makes it a super capable boat for the size and weight,” he said, adding it packs down smaller than comparable whitewater models. “I was impressed by how stable, fast, and nimble it is. A fun little playboat for go-karting around on rivers with easier features. And it’s the easiest-rolling boat Alpacka makes.” Its biggest strength: “A capable boat that’s very light when it’s on your back. Ideal for trips that require a lengthy approach or exit, moderate whitewater, and where weight is at a premium.”

Best Whitewater Kayak

Pyranha Firecracker

Length: 7’11”
Width: 26 in
Weight: 41 lbs

Pros and Cons
⊕ Great for every skill level
⊕ Higher knee placement provides comfortable paddling position
⊗ None

Pyranha’s new Firecracker is plain, well
explosive. With its volume loaded up front for river running and a slicey stern for more playful paddles, the new half-slice lets you whip into micro eddies, snap onto waves, and get vertical wherever you want, all while retaining river runnability, Our testers put it to the task on various sections of Washington’s Skykomish River and the East Coast’s Nolichucky River, and found it extremely capable in both settings.

Whether you’re a pro or an average Joe, you’ll be comfortable running rapids on the Firecracker. The boat’s planing hull keeps it stable, spinnable, and surfable, while its rockered but short bow keeps you dry and relaxed. “A nice balance of playfulness and forgiveness,” said 145-pound tester Judah Harms, who put the medium through its paces on Washington’s Skykomish. “And the volume up front keeps the bow dry when surfing.” He added that playboaters will like how it sprays water away when its surfing.

Wider than many of Pyranha’s other kayaks, the Firecracker’s planing hull also eases into a gentle edge for carving. “It’s just enough to work with but novices won’t find it too aggressive,” said Harms. And the stern, he said, “is super fun—what little volume it has is distributed nicely, which helps it engage.” He found it did really well when he got vertical on rapids, too.

Tester Nick Hinds took it on Washington’s Class III Teton River at low water, ripping up three surf waves and stern squirting eddylines (stern squirting is the kayak-equivalent of doing a wheelie on a bike). “It carves great on a wave, without kicking out from too much rocker,” he said. “It sits in the wave’s sweet spot. I was able to surf until I was sore.” Calling it an “agile little kayak—fast on a wave for its length,” he added that it’s great for catching waves on the fly, making hard cutbacks, and splatting rocks and stern squirting. One demerit: “There’s no drain plug, so don’t forget your sponge.”

Our testers also liked its higher knee placement, providing a comfortable paddling position while freeing up foot room. In particular, Harms calls out the boat’s forgiveness, which lets it accommodate a wide variety of paddlers. “I’d put a beginner in it and recommend it to intermediates wanting to get more playful on their hometown runs, while experts will love it to up their freestyle game.”

Best Recreational Kayak

Old Town Ocean Kayak Malibu Two XL

Length: 13 ft
Width: 35 in
Weight: 90 lbs

Pros and Cons
⊕ High weight capacity
⊗ Not for windy conditions

You’ll look at lakes, bays, and easy-flowing rivers in a new light while paddling the Ocean Kayak Malibu Two XL recreational kayak. Perfect for heading out with your kid, spouse, pooch, or friend, it’s the ultimate family machine that can be paddled solo or tandem, with 491 pounds of weight capacity.

Our testers took it throughout the bays and inland waterways of Florida and found it perfect for the Sunshine State and beyond. “Very dry with a well-planned out deck,” said tester Tony Lai of St. Petersburg, who paddled it in wind with a little chop and touted its built-in seats with backrests, storage hatches, cup holders, molded footwells and cooler spot, and front and rear tank wells. “Plenty of space for whatever you want to bring.” He also relished its higher sitting frame seat (an upgrade) and center deck space for fishing. “Super easy to stand up on and get back down,” he said. “A great poling platform for sight fishing.”

Sarasota’s Ryan Nowakowski took it out with his 70-pound son Jackson,10, on a calm bay with an outgoing tide and winds around seven knots. “Roomy, comfortable, stable and versatile,” he said, acknowledging its tracking ability and AirComfort seats, which have an adjustable backrest and position your knees at a natural bend. “Can handle family beach days, lazy bay paddling, and wind, waves and chop. Not for super long distances, but great for shorter jaunts with stability and comfort.”

Testament came when they were drifting in about three feet of water, and out of nowhere the bow beneath Jackson was hit and launched up in the air by a very startled manatee. “Jackson was scared but the kayak didn’t capsize,” he said.

Nowakowski also applauded the waterproof hatches in front of each seat, which are deeper than those on other models and able to carry phones, wallets, keys, and more, as well as improved scupper locations so any water that gets in drains back out quickly. “You can stuff your accessories right in front of you for easy access, which frees up the tank well for coolers or other items,” he says. “Unfortunately, we couldn’t grab our phone quick enough for the manatee.”

Noting it didn’t want to track as well in windy or up current conditions, we wouldn’t recommend the Malibu Two XL for more serious expeditions.

Best Fishing Kayak

Old Town Sportsman BigWater ePDL+ 132

Length: 13’2”
Width: 36 in
Weight: 143 lbs

Pros and Cons
⊕ E-bike technology makes it easy to go against ocean tides while fishing
⊕ Lifetime hull warranty
⊗ Have to cut off the power to go into reverse, which can waste precious seconds with a fish on the line

The BigWater ePDL+ is Old Town’s most innovative pedal kayak, essentially using what is best described as e-bike technology. In short, its battery-powered pedal-drive lets anglers switch between manual paddle, pedal, power-assist pedal, or fully motorized cruise control, upping the versatility for kayak fishing. The LED screen shows you the mode, speed/assist level, and battery consumption level.

“Very intuitive, not much of a learning curve,” said tester Christi Holmes, who paddled it on lakes and tidal bays in Maine and Florida. “Excelled going against ocean surf and tides when trying to get to my fishing grounds.” She loved that she could take breaks for snacks, photos, and changing lures while the kayak kept cruising. “Liked knowing that if my battery died, I could just pedal back,” she said, adding it was great for trolling and heading against Maine’s powerful tidal rivers. “It works best in tidal areas or areas with strong currents and you need to get somewhere. Less work meant I could go farther and fish longer.”

Tester Bill Sikora used it on the fresh and saltwater of the South Florida canal. “Stable hull and lower speed great for trolling for gamefish and against the tide,” he said, adding that while trolling a small blade bait he hooked into a peacock bass. “I locked the rudder in place and just enjoyed the ride. The drive never felt glitchy and maintained speed even during extended use—and never felt it would die thanks to the power indicator.” The only weakness he noted was that you had to cut the power off to go into reverse. If a hooked fish turns toward a structure on a bank, he said, pedaling backward lets you pull it back out into open water. “With the power-assist engaged, you have to pedal a few times before it kicks off and the drive goes back into manual mode,” he said, which takes up precious seconds when you have a fish on the line.

Other features include a lifetime hull warranty (two years for the ePDL+ drive), a 36-volt lithium-ion battery, EVA foam floor pads for standing, rod and cup holders, a tackle box, full-length accessory tracks for customization, a wide stern tank well, and an offset shallow water anchor mount.

How to Choose a Boat

Generally, there are canoes and sea kayaks for touring lakes and bays, hardshell recreational and inflatable kayaks for user-friendly flatwater paddling (and also inflatable kayaks for Class I-III whitewater), and whitewater rafts and kayaks designed for running rivers. It’s important to decide what kind of paddling you’re most interested in before making any decisions about which boat to buy. Factors should include your proximity to water (and what type of water that is), skill level, and storage access. Below is a quick rundown on the types of crafts you can choose from.

Sit-Inside Kayaks

These are good for folks paddling in cooler climates or taking longer trips, since sitting inside a closed cockpit keeps you drier and more out of the wind. They also offer better in-hull storage for gear, making them better for extended jaunts. Touring models such as sea kayaks are generally longer and narrower, making them faster and better suited for bigger crossings and multi-day trips (most come with a nylon spray skirt to keep splashes at bay). Recreational kayaks cater more to entry-level paddlers and are shorter, wider, and more stable, plus they usually have larger cockpits. The tradeoff is they’re a bit slower and require more effort to paddle long distances.

Sit-on-Top Kayaks

These are touring and recreational kayaks that let you sit outside in a self-draining depression in the hull rather than inside a cockpit. They’re great for entry-level paddlers since you can climb back on if you tip over, and are well-suited for warmer climates. In general, wider means more stable, and longer means faster, even though they’re generally slower than their sit-inside brethren.

Inflatable Kayaks

Let’s call them IKs instead of duckies; it sounds better and is more in line with their performance. As with rafts, abrasion-resistant rubber makes inflatable kayaks well-suited for rivers and other rocky environments. What inflatable kayaks lack in hull speed they make up for in stability, durability, and portability—when you’re through paddling, simply roll them up for transport and storage back at home. Available in both single and double models, most also have inflatable self-bailing floors.

Fishing Kayaks

Fishing kayaks are the same as sit-on-tops, but with options to add accessories such as rod holders, bait platforms, anchors, tackle compartments, electronics, and more. They’re generally wider, heavier, and more stable (some let you cast while standing), with large maximum capacities for gear—and fish. Pedal kayaks are propelled via a removable system that drops through the hull in front of your seat (note: you can also use a paddle). They can reach speeds of five miles per hour (faster than you can paddle) and are steered with a hand-operated rudder. While their origins stem from fishing (i.e. they keep your hands free for casting), they’re becoming popular for general recreational use as well, and are good options for birding, sightseeing, exploring, and other uses. Most also come with a forward and reverse mode, which can be handy for retrieving a snagged lure.

Whitewater Kayaks

Whitewater kayaks run the gamut from tiny playboats built specifically for surfing waves to more bulbous creek boats for charging through hydraulics, to well-rounded river runners, built for easy paddling downstream. Determine what kind of water you’ll be paddling before making your decision. “Half-slice” boats are becoming increasingly popular, with a forgiving bow for river running and a flat stern for playing, squirting, and surfing.

Pack Rafts

This burgeoning category consists of uber-lightweight, bathtub-shaped inflatable rafts that are easy to carry into hard-to-reach lakes and other waterways. They come in a variety of shapes, weights, and sizes, from super light (under four pounds) for easy portaging, to more robust models complete with sprayskirts and thigh straps for whitewater.

Whitewater Rafts

These durable boats are generally made for carrying gear and passengers down whitewater rivers. They range from heavy-duty haulers for multi-day trips to light and fast fishing vessels complete with raised seats and casting platforms.

Other Considerations to Ask Yourself

There are a lot of choices when it comes to design and materials. Ask yourself a few questions to narrow your search to the best craft for your needs, such as:

What kind of paddling do I want to do?

The water conditions will greatly affect the type of boat that is right for you. Will you be sticking to flatwater lakes and rivers or tackling whitewater?

How much space do I need?

For longer day trips and overnights, you’ll need room for extra gear, so consider slightly larger, or even tandem models.

What’s my budget?

There’s a wide range of prices depending on size, design, and material, for everything from rec to whitewater kayaks. Decide how high-performance you want to go and what your budget constraints are before narrowing it down.

Do I want a tandem or single?

Many rec and touring kayaks are made in single- and two-person versions. While it is possible to paddle a tandem kayak solo, it’s more difficult, so only get a tandem kayak if you’ll be using it mostly with someone else.

What type of material should I choose?

As with most things, you get what you pay for. Weight and durability are the big variables to watch for. Some higher-end boats are made of fiberglass and composite, making them lighter but more expensive and less durable. The majority of recreational and whitewater kayaks are made from plastic, which is affordable and durable.

How We Test

• Number of testers: 14
• Number of products tested: 19
• Miles paddled: 136
• Cumulative put-ins reached: 24
• Post-paddle PBRs: 36 (minus the one that exploded)
• Cups of coffee: 25
• Hull bumps by manatees: 1

To test boats this season, we assembled a team of expert paddlers from around the country who took some of the newest paddle craft on the market everywhere from the manatee-filled estuaries of Florida to the Rockies and rivers of Washington. The group consisted of guides, retailers, whitewater junkies, fishing aficionados, and more, all sharing a love for being on the water as often as possible. Overall, we got our feet wet on 19 different tester boats, whittling the list down to the above five based on performance, weight, and durability.

Meet Our Lead Tester

Testing manager Eugene Buchanan is the 14-year publisher and editor-in-chief of Paddler magazine and founder of PaddlingLife.com. He’s written about the outdoors for more than 30 years. He’s a former ski patroller, raft, and kayak guide whose passion for paddling has taken him to more than 30 countries on six continents. A Fellow member of the , he was also the recipient of W.L. Gore & Associates’s prestigious Shipton-Tillman grant for a 27-day, white-knuckle whitewater trip down Siberia’s Bashkaus River, a trip he chronicled in one of his five books, .

The post The Best Canoes, Kayaks, and Rafts on the Market appeared first on șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online.

Base camp might be my favorite two words in the English language. Base camp is where you stage the next excursion, or refuel with a bowl of stew, or a beer. You rest and recover there. If you’re lucky, you can slip into a hot tub or cold spring, because base camps don’t always have to be a tent or in the back of your truck. Sometimes, base camp can be a lodge with soft sheets and a chef.

I’ve gathered a handful of my personal favorite adventure lodges and picked a few more destination hotels and chalets on my bucket list. Some of them are high-end andÌę worthy of a splurge, while others are downright affordable. All of them are chosen specifically for their locations and adventures they offer, putting visitors within reach of dramatic landscapes while providing gear, know-how, and sometimes in-house guides. Because occasionally it’s nice not to have to plan everything yourself.

The Gravel House Hotel, Patagonia, Arizona

You may not have heard of Patagonia, Arizona, a tiny town of 800-ish sitting at the base of the Patagonia Mountains, near the Mexico border. Much of the surrounding land is protected by the Coronado National Forest, which houses a chunk of the 700-mile Arizona Trail, while a lifetime of gravel rides begin and end in the two-block downtown.

is a collection of homes and a small hotel with nine rooms and a communal kitchen, all in the heart of town. The hotel is owned by cycling guide and chef Zander Ault, who you can hire to whip up regional delicacies like green chile stew and carne asada tacos. He and his team can also lead you on day rides through plains of shimmering grass flanked by the 7,000-foot Patagonias, which were capped with snow when I was there last spring. I loved the riding, which had me pedaling firm gravel through narrow canyons to historic ruins and across broad grasslands to the Mexican border before returning to town for a cold beer.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: You can hike or mountain bike a slice of the Arizona Trail, but the gravel is the magic here. I’ve stayed at The Gravel House, spending three days exploring the lonely roads of the area, and want to return to it and the landscape. Elevation gain is moderate, so you can cover a lot of ground exploring canyons and prairies that butt up against the border with Mexico, just 18 miles away. Check out the ride, which climbs to the ruins of a mining camp from 1933.

Logistics: Rooms start at $135 per night, with chef services and guiding extra. Guided day rides start at $295 per person and include high-end Pivot bike rentals.

Sol Mountain Lodge, Revelstoke, British Columbia, Canada

At 3.855 million square miles, Canada is a big place—among the world’s countries, only Russia is bigger—so no lodge can put you within striking distance of everything that our neighbors to the north offer. But , south of one of Canada’s great destination towns, Revelstoke, brings you into the thick of the Monashee Mountains, which are blanketed with powder in winter and host hundreds of miles of trails in summer. Sol Mountain provides backcountry skiers access to the Monashees’ alpine bowls and steep chutes during chilly months (the lodge is owned and operated by certified members of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides), and the rest of the year mountain bikers and hikers can explore the high alpine singletrack.

The lodge is off-grid, with all of the power generated on-site by micro-hydro electricity, but sustainable doesn’t mean uncomfortable.The place has private rooms, a gear room, full kitchen, and a bar stocked with local craft beers. There’s also a small library with books and games as well as guitars, a box drum, and a mandolin, if you’re musically inclined. There’s even a wood-fired sauna.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: The lodge shares a border with Monashee Provincial Park, and the owner/operators have built a trail system that extends from the lodge into the park, with permits to lead ski, biking, and hiking trips throughout. Mountain bikers are going to want to ride loads of , but the five-mile Infinity and Beyond Loop is a must. The purpose-built trail has it all—ridgetop views of the Provincial Park and the Gold Range Mountains, lots of rock features, and a thrilling downhill back to the lodge. All rides end with a dip in Sol Lake, on Sol Lodge’s property, where the owners will stash a six pack by shore to keep it cold for you.

Logistics: In winter, you have to fly into the lodge (helicopter rides from Kelowna International Airport are included in the cost of a winter trip); stays require a five- or six-night trip (from $3250 Canadian per person) and include guides. But in the summer, you can make the 55-kilometer (34-mile) drive from Revelstoke on 4WD forest roads. Summer rates are per day, and catered trips (all meals included), start at $350 per person per night, two-night minimum.

Paradise Lodge, the Rogue River, Oregon

Once on site, you can enjoy hiking trails that start on the property, swimming holes, and paddling the class IV Rogue. The lodge sits on Paradise Bar, a long, unusually calm stretch of the Rogue that’s perfect for fishing for steelhead trout or salmon. In-house chefs create family-style meals served in a low-key dining room, while an expansive deck overlooks the river. There’s a disc-golf course, too.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Trails start on the grounds, following the Rogue River and exploring the smaller Paradise Creek. There’s an easy quarter-mile hike to Paradise Falls and back to get started, but you’re here for the Rogue. The classic adventure is a multi-day, 32-mile trip through the Rogue Canyon. runs a trip where guests camp riverside on the first night and spend the second in the lodge. The run is a mix of class III-IV drops and swimming holes, culminating with the class IV Blossom Bar, just a half-mile upstream from the lodge (trips from $1,225 per person, including lodging).

Logistics: Hike-in options start at $215 a night per person, including breakfast, dinner, and a sack lunch. You can also raft into the lodge for $205 per person per night, but must make your own arrangements, through local outfitters including and . To raft the Rogue on your own, you need permits from the BLM for any dates between May 15 to October 15. Most commercial trips run in July and August.

Gunflint Lodge, Grand Marais, Minnesota

Tucked onto the southern shore of Gunflint Lake, near the Canadian border, has been hosting adventurers since 1925. The property sits on the edge of the million-acre Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, allowing boaters to explore the myriad paddle trails by day and come home to hot meals and a sauna by night.

The lodge consists of 25 private cabins spread across the shore of Gunflint Lake, with a main lodge and dining area, two floating docks, and a shop for the in-house outfitters. Most of the cabins have stone fireplaces, saunas, and hot tubs. The night sky is vibrant with stars, as this is one of the largest Dark Sky Sanctuaries in the world, and the lodge is far enough north that you may even experience the northern lights. Hiking trails on the property lead to the top of cliffs with epic views of Gunflint Lake and the surrounding Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. The resort guides offer daily trips into the Boundary Waters on foot and canoe. In the winter, it’s all about ice fishing and cross-country skiing. Come summer, you’re hunting for smallmouth bass in Gunflint Lake and canoeing into the Boundary Waters on day trips.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Retrace the path of early fur traders by paddling a piece of the Voyageurs Route across Gunflint Lake through a narrow inlet into Magnetic Lake, crossing into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness proper. This mixed route of lake and river paddling, with a few short portages, has you tracing the edge of the United States as you travel north, seeing waterfalls, historic chalets, and maybe a moose from the hull of your boat. Guided trips for lodge guests are $125 per person.

Logistics: Gunflint Lodge is a six-hour drive north from Minneapolis. You can book a cabin (from $300 a night, two-night minimum) only, or an all-inclusive package that includes the cabin, all your meals, access to canoes, and one guided adventure per day (from $1279 per person for four nights).

Red Mountain Alpine Lodge, Red Mountain Pass, Colorado

Want a taste of the Alps right here in the U.S.? Book a couple of nights in , a luxurious A-Frame “hut” perched at 11,000 feet on Red Mountain Pass in the San Juan Mountains above Ouray, with gorgeous high-alpine hikes and backcountry skiing right out the door. A few winters ago, I spent some days skiing the terrain outside the lodge, and was just about as impressed with the digs inside the lodge as the powder.

The lodge has three private rooms and 10 semi-private loft spaces above the expansive living room, which is warmed by a wood-burning stove set in front of floor-to-ceiling windows. A shot ski hangs above the dining room for apres shenanigans. șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs abound, from endless jeep roads to the via ferrata in Telluride in warmer months. But it’s mainly about backcountry skiing in the winter and high-alpine trekking in the summer.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: The skiing is epic, but I want to hit Red Mountain Alpine Lodge in the summer. The hut is a key component to the , a guided five-day hike that traverses the 10,000- to 13,000-foot-tall San Juans, hitting alpine lakes and with nights spent in three different huts along the way. Or you could just base at Red Alpine and do your own day hikes. The above-treeline, off-trail routes are endless and the lodge staff can point you in the direction of Red Mountain #3, a 12,877-foot peak with 360-degree views of the Red Group. Or you could bring a gravel bike and knock out the , which hits 12,000-foot peaks and backcountry waterfalls along a high-alpine dirt road.

Logistics: Loft spaces start at $289 per person, which includes breakfast, trail lunch, and dinner. Guided adventures are add ons, but the lodge is owned by , so the process is seamless.

Mulberry Gap, Ellijay, Georgia

Sitting 90 minutes north of Atlanta, in the heart of the Chattahoochee National Forest, was designed with mountain bikers in mind, giving front-door access to more than 150 miles of single track through the mountains of North Georgia. This rustic lodge offers a collection of cabins, from basic rooms with access to communal showers, to plush multi-bedroom buildings with private baths. There is also a communal barn with games and, last time I was there, a tricycle for silly races, plus a family-style restaurant, a small gear-and-beer shop, hot tubs, and an onsite pump track and jump line.

I’ve spent a few weekends riding bikes with Mulberry as my basecamp, and love the juxtaposition of a full day on hard, steep singletrack and a return to a smoked brisket in the restaurant, a cold beer and a hot tub. It hits just right.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Mulberry Gap sits next to the Pinhoti Trail, a long-distance mountain-bike trail that spans the length of Georgia. And there’s twice as much gravel if that’s what you’re into. If you’re only going to experience one ride, let it be the , which combines a piece of the Pinhoti Trail with Bear Creek. It’s a mix of gravel and single track, with lots of loose rock descents, waterfalls, creek crossings, and a little bit of flow.

Logistics: Cabins start at $140 a night, midweek; prices vary for size. Weekends are minimum two-night stays. Meals are extra, as are shuttles (from $12 per person).

Johnstone Wilderness Lodge, Seward, Alaska

Johnstone Bay is wild. The inlet sits on the southeast coast of the Kenai Peninsula, 30 miles south of Seward with the Church Mountains rising steeply from the edge of the water. This collection of gray, rocky beaches, steep green mountains, and blue/white glaciers and icefields is only accessible by air (you’ll have to get dropped off by helicopter or float plane) or sea. has three chalets that sit in the middle of all that action, with walk-out beach access, surf breaks galore (yes, Alaska has surfing, and it can be really good), and the massive Excelsior Glacier waiting for you to explore. The lodge itself is a collection of three chalets built by hand over three years. All are surrounded by dense forest and face the beach, where bonfires are the nightly entertainment.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Jordan Pond, owner of the lodge, fell in love with Johnstone Bay because of the surfing, and if you’re hardy enough to handle the cold water, he can deliver you to the goods: a beach break along three miles of isolated beach. Swells can produce big, heavy waves. It’s also a deep bay, so you’ll occasionally see humpback whales hanging out beyond the breakers. Pond will also guide you in a Zodiac, navigating icebergs to Excelsior Glacier, which covers a broad valley as it flows from the Sargent Icefield down to the edge of the water.

Logistics: You can for summer (June 1 to October 30) starting at $1,575 per person (three-night minimum), which includes three meals a day plus snacks, use of kayaks, and guiding for the various adventures surrounding the lodge, from surfing to hiking and kayaking. You’ll have to from the Seward airport (prices depend on number of people and weight of gear). Boating to the place is possible, but helicopter access is much easier.

Field Station, Moab, Utah

You hardly need another reason to visit the historic desert town of Moab, but definitely sweetens the deal. The new hotel, which opened in April, 2023, sits at the bases of both Arches and Canyonlands national parks, which are full of sandstone rock formations and classic desert hikes, offering a mix of accommodations from van-life sites to spacious hotel rooms that sleep up to eight, all centered around communal spaces, such as a pool and hot tub, beer garden, and cafe.

Field Station’s a one-stop shop for exploring the surrounding landscape, with on-site equipment rentals and professional guiding partners, and , on hand to lead you on mountain biking, canyoneering, and climbing trips. The place often offers pop-up skills tutorials where you can learn things such as survivalist skills or how to patch a flat tire, and live music around the fire pits. I want to go here: Moab is great, but it would be even better with a pool.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: The problem with Field Station (and Moab in general) is choosing how to spend your time. Do you hike in Arches? Mountain bike on the area’s famous slickrock single track, which has been attracting fat-tire enthusiasts for decades? Climb desert towers and cliffs? Or raft the Colorado River? We say call in sick and extend your stay to do it all. But if you have to choose just one caper, sign up for a guided tour of the , which has 30 miles of dusty, sandstone-heavy single track with optional big descents and rock drops.

Logistics: Room rates start at $127. Van-life sites start at $29 and include access to all of the hotel’s amenities, including showers.

Surfhouse, Encinitas, California

California has no shortage of hotels with quick access to celebrated surf breaks, but makes your SoCal surf trip effortless with a combo of proximity and amenities. The eight-room motel is located in Encinitas, just a block from the beach and within a quick drive of dozens of world-class waves, including the iconic Swamis. Each room is crafted to represent a different local break. Small touches like an outdoor shower and in-house surf rentals go a long way, and the services include staff pros that can give lessons or even guide you through the local goods, helping you avoid any trouble (like upsetting crusty local surfers). You can even hire a photographer to hop in the water with you to document your trip.

The șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: If you’re a beginner surfer, book a lesson with a Surfhouse pro and learn at a friendly beach break like Moonlight State Beach. If you have some experience, hire a (rates vary depending on break and number of surfers) who can tailor the experience to your skill level, putting you on the right wave that’s not only ideal for your ability, but is all-but-guaranteed to avoid the crowds. Or just pedal one of the hotel’s complimentary beach cruisers and roll from taco stand to beach to taco stand.

Logistics: Rooms start at $260 per night. Guides and lessons are extra. Surfhouse also has a rental van decked out with all of the amenities you need for the ultimate SoCal surf road trip (from $250 a day).

Graham Averill is șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Magazine’s national-parks columnist. He’s always loved the idea of a basecamp, but as he’s gotten older, he likes them to have swimming pools, saunas, and cocktail bars. Has he gotten soft? He prefers the term “wise.”

For more by this author:

The 9 Best Gateway Towns to U.S. National Parks

The 8 Most Adventurous States in America. Number 1 Is 


And the 11 Least Visited National Parks Are


The post The 9 Most Fun șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Lodges in North America appeared first on șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online.

Last year was a banner one for our national parks, with 325.5 million recreation visits in the books for 2023. Last week the National Park Service released its , detailing the total number of visitors to the 400 units—which include national seashores and historic sites—the park service manages. Overall, recreation visits increased by 13 million, an uptick of 4 percent compared to 2022. The number of hours spent hanging out in our parks was also up 4 percent, from 1.36 to 1.4 billion hours. That’s a lot of hiking, or sitting in moose traffic jams, depending on the park.

Parks have never been more popular than they were in 2016, when the national park service was celebrating its centennial and visitation numbers hit a record 330,971,689. That total stayed constant for the next few years, with more than 327 million recreation visits in 2019. Then the pandemic hit, parks closed, travel halted, and visitation dropped by 90 million visits in 2020. The popularity of our scenic national parks has been climbing steadily since, last year almost reaching pre-pandemic levels.

The stats break down , so you can see which of our treasured landscapes are the most and least popular. The Blue Ridge Parkway continues to be the most sought-after park unit in the country (with 16,757,635 visits), and Great Smoky Mountains National ParkÌęrules by far among national parks (13,297,647 visits, with the next-highest contenders all in the four million range). Gulf Islands National Seashore jumped three spots to make it into the top five most popular park units in 2023. And Glen Canyon National Recreation Area climbed into the coveted top-ten list with a near doubled 5,206,934 recorded visits, a massive jump from 34^th in 2022, when it saw 2,842,776.

protects 1.25 million acres of land in Utah and Arizona, including Lake Powell. A multi-year drought had kept many visitors at bay, but the record-breaking snowfall of the winter of 2022 to 2023 brought water levels back up, allowing several boat ramps and access points to reopen. I’ve explored Lake Powell by packraft at low water level, when it was muddy around the edges, but still pretty damn spectacular. Visiting the lake when the water is up would be amazing.

Then again, I like this next trove of data—because it tells you where to go to avoid crowds. My home is close to both the Blue Ridge Parkway and Great Smoky Mountains National Park, so I know a little too much about the popular places.

While the top 10 or so most-visited parks see millions of people a year, the parks at the bottom of the list see only a few thousand. Alaska’s Gates of the Arctic National Park has reclaimed the longtime title of “Least Visited National Park” in the U.S. after the National Park of American Samoa displaced it in 2022. Congratulations?

These overlooked parks are no less spectacular: offering tropical islands, massive sand dunes, 18,000-foot peaks, and more glaciers than any other spot in the U.S. It might take extra time and work to reach some of them, but the rewards are dramatic landscapes and big adventures
all to yourself.

Here are the 11 least visited national parks in 2023.

1. Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 11,045

Location: Sitting in Alaska, north of the Arctic Circle, Gates of the Arctic covers 8.4 million acres of the rugged and cold Brooks Range. There are no roads or maintained trails within the park, although there is one small village, Anaktuvuk Pass (pop: 451), a Nunamiut Inupiat settlement typically reached by small plane.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Backpack among the Arrigetch Peaks, a cluster of mountains known for steep, vertical spires deep within the Brooks Range. It’s a that requires a series of bush plane flights.

2. National Park of American Samoa

Recreational Visits: 12,135

Location: In the South Pacific, 2,600 miles southwest of Hawaii, National Park of American Samoa covers portions of three volcanic islands full of tropical forests, coral sand beaches, and traditional Samoan villages. The seascape is just as impressive; the ocean surrounding the islands are home to more than 950 species of fish and 250 species of coral.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: The national park facilitates a where visitors can stay with locals to learn Samoan customs and the South Pacific lifestyle.

3. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 16,728

Location: Roughly 100 miles southwest of Anchorage, Lake Clark is 4,000,000 acres of glaciers, peaks, and active volcanoes. No roads lead to the park, which can only be reached by small plane. The park is home to three National Wild and Scenic Rivers (the Mulchatna, Tlikakila, Chilikadrotna), attracting paddlers and anglers alike.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Backpackers should hit the 50-mile Telaquana Route, where you can follow in the footsteps of local Dena’ina Athabascans and fur traders who blazed the path between the shores of Lake Clark and Telaquana Lake.

4. Kobuk Valley National Park, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 17,616

Location: Sitting 25 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Kobuk Valley National Park protects the river of the same name that has served as a thoroughfare for wildlife, particularly caribou, and the people who have been hunting the river valley for 9,000 years. Kobuk Valley is home to the 25-square-mile Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, which rise abruptly from the surrounding trees.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Take a bush plane into Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, camp, hike, and watch for caribou.

5. Isle Royale National Park, Michigan

Recreational Visits: 28,965

Location: A cluster of islands in the middle of Lake Superior near the Canadian border, Isle Royale is a car-less wilderness where moose and wolves roam. The park is only accessible by boat or float plane, but once you’re there hikers have 165 miles of trails to explore. A small population of gray wolves have lived in Isle Royale since 1948, when the first wolves crossed an ice bridge that formed, connecting the island to mainland Canada. The population had nearly died out when, in 2018, park wildlife experts relocated wolves to the island.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Backpack the 40-mile , which crosses over the park’s main island, connecting backcountry lakes and campsites. Or, hike an 8.5-mile stretch of the from Windigo Dock to Feldtman Lake, which includes a quick, .8-mile side trip to Rainbow Cove, where a rocky shoreline on Lake Superior offers long range views of Rock of Ages Lighthouse on a clear day.ÌęÌę

6. Katmai National Park and Preservation, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 33,763

Location: Man, Alaska has a lot of lonely national parks. But Katmai is special because it’s so diverse. Situated on a peninsula in southern Alaska, roughly 260 miles southwest of Anchorage, it has the rugged mountains and glaciers you’d expect, but also lush valleys, tumultuous coastline, and 40 square miles of desert landscape, thanks to the eruption of Novarupta Volcano, which scorched the earth more than 100 years ago. Katmai is probably best-known for its , where you can sit in your office and peep at brown bears eating salmon at Brooks Falls on the Brooks River.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Katmai isn’t connected to any town by road, so most people show up via boat or float plane from King Salmon or Anchorage. That alone is an adventure. Visitors usually start by visiting Brooks Camp, home to the park’s summer headquarters, to check in and get the required bear-safety orientation, then head to the various platforms that overlook the Brooks River. If you’re looking to dig deeper, consider paddling the 80-mile , which connects a chain of lakes through Katmai’s backcountry. Starting at Brooks Camp, kayakers will paddle a circle around 3,183-foot Mount La Gorce, navigating two class I-II rivers and huffing a 1.5-mile long portage between open-water stretches of three different lakes.

7. North Cascades National Park, Washington

Recreational Visits: 40,351

Location: Only three hours from the city of Seattle, North Cascades is a rugged expanse of mountains with more than 300 glaciers, the largest collection of any park outside of Alaska. In other words, North Cascades is wintry and snow-covered most of the year, so much so that most visitors only hit the park between June and September.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Hike , a steep, 9.4-mile ascent from the edge of Ross Lake that delivers sweeping views from a lookout tower of the Ross Lake National Recreation Area.

8. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Recreational Visits: 78,305

Location: Sitting more than 200 miles east of Anchorage, Wrangell-St. Elias encompasses 13.2 million acres where four major mountain ranges converge, encompassing both the largest collection of glaciers and the highest concentration of 16,000-foot peaks in the U.S., including seven of the 20 highest peaks in America. The park is a land of extremes—14,163-foot Mount Wrangell is an active volcano with vents of steam on the summit, and Bagley Icefield, near the coast, is North America’s largest subpolar icefield.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Climb Mount Bear, a 14,831-foot peak deep in the St. Elias Range that doesn’t require any technical climbing, but is a beautiful adventure.

9. Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida

Recreational Visits: 84,285

Location: Head to Key West and then keep going, 70 miles west into the Gilf of Mexico to Dry Tortugas, a collection of seven islands only accessible by boat or seaplane. The atolls are a mix of palm trees and soft sand beaches with world-class snorkeling and diving just offshore. Visitors can camp on the largest island, Garden Key, in the shadows of the massive Fort Jefferson, a Civil War-era prison.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Dive the Windjammer Wreck, the remains of a ship that sank in 1907 off Loggerhead Key after running aground on the surrounding reef. The wreck is in shallow water (20 feet at the deepest point), so snorkelers and divers can explore it together. Or, bring a kayak and paddle around Garden, Bush, and Long Key, a trio of islands so close together, they’re sometimes joined by sandbars. You’re looking for nurse sharks and sea turtles in the clear water below and, above, any of the 300 species of birds that migrate through the park every year.

10. Great Basin National Park, Nevada

Recreational Visits: 143,265

Location: The 77,180-acre Great Basin National Park sits in the high desert of Eastern Nevada, 300 miles north of Las Vegas. The terrain ranges from the 13,064-foot Wheeler Peak to an expansive cave system, called Lehman Caves. You’ll also find alpine lakes, old-growth bristlecone pine forests, and Nevada’s only remaining glacier, Wheeler Peak Glacier.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Glimpse Nevada’s last piece of permanent ice by hiking the 4.8-mile to the bottom of the two-acre glacier. You’ll cruise through groves of ancient bristlecone, some estimated to be 4,000 years old.

11. Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota

Recreational Visits: 220,825

Location: In Northeastern Minnesota, up against the Canadian Border, Voyageurs National Park is mostly made up of water. This 218,055-acre park is loaded with lakes—four big ones that form a border for the park and 26 smaller interior lakes, most interconnected by 60 miles of canoe and kayak trails. There are endless shorelines and islands to explore, and dense habitat for healthy moose and wolf populations.

One Big șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű: Head to the interior lakes, where marked canoeÌętrails lead to primitive backcountry campsites you can only reach by boat. And you have to use the national park service’s boats; once you have a , you get a code to unlock one of the canoes that the NPS has staged at certain points for use to prevent the spread of invasive species. The Chain of Lakes are four small bodies of water on the interior of the Kabetogama Peninsula that you can piece together via short portages and creeks to create a 13-mile hiking and paddling adventure. Each of the four lakes has its own campsite, one per lake, and most people will pick a single campsite as a basecamp and explore from there, so the mileage of your adventure will vary.

Graham Averill is șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű magazine’s national parks columnist. After researching these remote parks, he’s thinking it might be time to get his pilot’s license and invest in a float plane.

For more by this author, see:

7 Most Adventurous Ways to See the Total EclipseÌęof 2024

The 6 Most Adventurous Train Trips in North America

The Creepiest Unsolved Mysteries in U.S. National Parks

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 appeared first on șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online.

Monday, April 8, 2024, will be an epic day, when a total eclipse passes over North America. The moon will completely block out the sun, turning day to night across a wide swath of the United States from Texas to Maine. All of us in the nation, wherever we’re located, will experience at least a partial eclipse. If you’re in Southern California, the moon will blot out about half of the sun; in Washington State, about 30 percent; and in the mountains of North Carolina, roughly 80 percent.

Total Solar Eclipse 2024: The Path of Totality

If you’re situated directly beneath the celestial event, in the path of totality—which diagonals from Northern Mexico into Texas, up through to Maine, and out over Canada—you’ll get the full experience. See the here (use link to download NASA’s interactive map).

“A total eclipse is other-worldly,” says Tyler Nordgren, an astronomer and Dark Sky Ambassador for the National Park Service. “The sky will get dark, colors in the landscape will change. During totality, you’ll go from daytime to night, the brightest stars turn out, and the sun turns into a black hole in space. The heavens literally align above you.”

An annular eclipse passed over the western United States last October, and in 2017 some of us got to experience a total eclipse (my kids and I watched from a beach in South Carolina), but this impending eclipse will be even more dramatic, promising twice as large an area of totality as in 2017, because the moon is closer to earth and will cast a larger shadow.

Nordgren’s advice for choosing a spot to watch? “Go some place you actually want to visit, because if you get clouded out, you’re somewhere cool.

“Even with socked-in skies,” he adds, “you’ll notice things getting darker, and then it will be dark as night. You’ll experience a truly bizarre day.”

We’ve picked seven badass places with fun things to do to make the most of your viewing opportunity. Just don’t forget your protective eyewear.

How to See the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse in șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű-Worthy Ways

1. From a Ski Resort: Jay Peak, Vermont

For a party, look no further than Jay Peak and their , which will feature live music from Pink Talking Fish as they perform the Pink Floyd album Dark Side of the Moon in its entirety. You can expect about four minutes of total darkness during the peak of the event. The lifts will be running before the eclipse starts at 2 P.M., but will stop for the duration of the event. Scenic tram rides to the top of the mountain are booked solid, but to avoid crowds anyways, catch one of the last chairs and ski to a quiet spot on the mountain.

Jay isn’t the only resort stoked on the eclipse. Saddleback Mountain, in Maine, will roll its end-of-the-season festivities straight into a that day. Whiteface in upstate New York, also Stowe, Sugarbush, and Mad River in Vermont, and Loon and Cannon Mountains in New Hampshire are all planning watch parties, too.

2.ÌęÌę From a Canoe: Buffalo National River, Arkansas

The Buffalo National River—the first ever designated in America—flows freely across the state of Arkansas for 135 miles, and the majority will be within the path of totality. You can expect roughly 3:30 minutes of total darkness within the park. The Buffalo National River is also a designated International Dark Sky Park, where in the days leading up to the eclipse rangers and astronomy experts will lead various interpretive night-sky programs with the chance to view constellations through telescopes.

For the event, we suggest you ditch the crowds by heading into the backcountry via canoe. The Upper Buffalo is the most scenic area of the river, with 200-500-foot bluffs rising directly from the water. The paddle is generally mellow, but some class I rapids keep things interesting. You can choose from a 10-mile day trip from the Ponca put-in to Kyles Landing, or do an overnight or multi-day, pulling off at gravel sandbars to set up . Or go crazy and try to knock out the entire 135 miles in a 10-day trip. Backcountry camping permits are free, and the has rentals (from $75 a day).

3. From Among Ancient Earthworks: Mounds State Park, Indiana

isn’t the most adventurous state park—it’s only 290 acres and most of the trails are crushed gravel and boardwalks—but it’s a cultural hotspot protecting 10 awe-inspiring earthworks along the White River built by the pre-Columbian Adena and Hopewell cultures. Historians believe that the largest of the mounds, the Great Mound, dates back to around 160 B.C. and that the mounds were used for community gatherings, religious ceremonies, and, yes, viewing astronomical alignments.

Savor that history by showing up to witness 3:42 seconds of total darkness as the eclipse passes over the park in the afternoon. You can watch from beside the Great Mound or by one of the other earthworks, or hike trail #5, a 2.5-mile loop that weaves around the park, past various mounds and along the banks of the White River. Bring your fishing gear, or grab what you need from nearby , and be prepared to cast, as the trail accesses the river in several points; the White is known for its smallmouth bass fishing.

4. From a National Forest: Garden of the Gods, Illinois

The whole 289,000-acre Shawnee National Forest sits within the path of totality, but the most dramatic spot for viewing has to be , a swath of sandstone outcroppings and cliffs that may be 320 million years old, according to the U.S. Forest Service. The .25-mile Observation Trail wanders through the heart of the Garden of the Gods outcroppings and to the top of tall bluffs with long-range views of the Shawnee Hills. These bluffs make a perfect perch for viewing the eclipse, which will hover over the area for 3:27 minutes of total darkness.

Pharaoh Campground has 12 first-come, first-served sites ($10 a night), but you better show up a few days early to snag a site before everyone else does. If you want more solitude, wander into Garden of the Gods Wilderness via the , which forms a 1.6-mile lollipop loop through a pine forest with bluff-top overlooks, caves, and rock formations.

5. From a Tube: Garner State Park, Texas

Not only did a chunk of Texas experience the path of totality during the annular eclipse in October but the state will score it again. Moreover, among all the U.S. states in April’s eclipse path, this one has the for prime viewing. Weather data from the last 28 years predicts just a 30 percent chance of cloud cover.

, in Texas Hill Country, sits in the path of totality and will experience 4:30 minutes of complete darkness. The park itself protects 1,774 acres of hills, forest, and bluffs as well as 2.9 miles of the aptly named Frio River. (Yes, that means “cold”.) You’ll find plenty of trails to hike, but the real gem of this park is tubing the Frio as it winds around the campgrounds and below the tan sandstone cliffs (the rents tubes for $10 each, per day). Tubing the stretch through the park takes a few hours, with a number of small rapids and the occasional swimming hole. Put in by noon (totality will start at 1:30 P.M.) and take your time.

6. From an Olympic Site: Adirondack Park, New York

At six million acres, upstate New York’s Adirondack Park is the largest publicly protected landscape in the lower 48. And most of that park will be within the path of totality. While the region is typically cloudy in April, on Nordgren’s advice, we’re sending you here as a beautiful, adventurous place, whatever the weather. You can see the eclipse from a variety of vantage points inside the park, and Lake Placid is hosting a watch party at the Olympic Center. They’re opening the speed-skating oval with views of the famous Olympic ski jumps and the Adirondacks’ High Peaks Wilderness Area. (An earlier version of this article suggested a mountain hike, but area groups are asking visitors to avoid the backcountry out of caution over potential winter conditions in April and given that mud season can lead to ecological damage from hiking. See other options

7. From a Surfboard:ÌęMazatlan, Mexico

The moon will cast a shadow over Mexico and the eastern edge of Canada as well as the U.S. While the chances of clear skies lessen as the eclipse moves north and into Canada, Mexico in early April presents the best chance for clear skies along the entire path of totality, with an 80 percent chance of sun during the day of the eclipse. But keep in mind the U.S. government has issued a for Mazatlan because of the presence of drug cartels in the area. It’s the same level of advisory (more information here) that the government has issued for Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta, and Baja.

Check out Mazatlan, a colonial-era beach town north of the popular Puerto Vallarta that is actually the first location in North America where you can view the total eclipse. It’s a legitimate surf destination with beaches facing multiple directions, picking up solid swells year round. Rucos, north of town, offers reliable surf spread across four miles of beach, though you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to reach it. Or, to keep things simple, walk from Mazatlan’s Centro Historico, a revamped historic district in the heart of town, to Playa Olas Altas to surf a beginner-friendly beach break. has lessons (from $50 a person) and rentals ($25 per day).

Now that we’ve given you the best places to see the solar eclipse in 2024, plot out your adventure and make the most of this celestial event. The next total eclipse won’t cross the lower 48 for 20 years.

Graham Averill is șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű magazine’s national parks columnist. He can never remember the names of the constellations in the sky, but loves a good eclipse and has fond memories of the 2017 event, which he watched with his family during a beach vacation.Ìę

For more by Graham Averill:

The 6 Most Adventurous Train Trips in North America

The 10 Best Backpacking Trails in Our National Parks

The Worst National Park Reviews of the Year

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Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn’t it be something to stay there? We do, too—all the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Why We Love Debsconeag Lake Wilderness Camps

You’ll know your vacation here is beginning when, at the end of a 25-mile dirt road, you move your drybags and wanigans into a 22-foot wood-and-canvas canoe and greet the staffer waiting to paddle you the mile up Fourth Debsconeag Lake (pronounced DEBS-con-egg or DEBS-con-eeg) to the (DLWC).

“It’s a nice threshold,” says Maine guide Greg Shute, who used to direct programs for the outdoor-education Chewonki Foundation, which owns the property, and now runs DLWC. “It really takes away the temptation to go back to the car.” Not that you’ll want to—this comfortable off-grid scattering of five waterside cabins and two large yurts in the heart of the North Woods is a deeply, deeply quiet place to canoe, kayak, fish, swim, and hike.

In a region dominated by commercial timberlands, here you can still find mossy stands of huge primeval trees. The cabins dot the western shore of Fourth Debsconeag Lake, one of a chain of eight lakes (some say six lakes and two ponds) that flow into the West Branch of the Penobscot River. DLWC sits within the 42,000-acre Nahmakanta Public Reserve, which is abutted to the east by the Nature Conservancy’s 46,000-acre Debsconeag Lake Wilderness. So a stay at this quintessential Maine hideaway will just be you, the moose, the lynx, and a few fellow vacationers.

șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Intel

In the late 1800s, the journey to this destination entailed a train, horse-drawn buckboard wagon, and then canoe to 223-acre Fourth Debsconeag, where travelers would stay for weeks, hunting moose and woodland caribou and fishing for brook trout. It’s no longer much of a draw to hunters but instead appeals to birders (camp staff contribute warbler-migration data to the Maine Breeding Bird Atlas), anglers, and hikers. From the camps, it’s a mile and a half to the Appalachian Trail—thru-hikers occasionally wander in to enjoy a clean bed—and innumerable other trails lead up to granite balds for views of 5,268-foot Mount Katahdin and out to ancient spruce and hemlock groves.

Most of all, this is canoeing country. Debsconeag means “carrying place,” and portaging is part of the adventure. You can put in at camp and paddle from lake to lake for days or even weeks. For a great overnight, follow part of a Penobscot hunting route across the stunningly clear Fourth Debsconeag Lake, portaging and paddling over to Third and Second Debsconeag Lakes, and camping at the mouth of Big Minister Stream. Then double back and end day two with a hot pull-chain shower atÌęDLWC’sÌęShower House. Whatever you have planned, the camp can lend binoculars, maps, and expert advice.

If you’re looking to stay closer to your cabin, there are hiking routes of all lengths, and DLWC keeps boats stashed at several nearby ponds for fishing or pure messing around. Brookies and lake trout are plentiful but savvy, so fisherfolk should get directions to the prime spots from Shute. “I’ll give guests tips when they’re here,” he says pointedly.

Choice Cabins

The Point Camp cabin sleeps six, with a porch that overlooks water frequented by loons. Also notable is the Birch Camp, with overnight space for up to four and an interior that’s an early-20th-century masterpiece of birchbark marquetry; oral history has it that the Wabanaki woman who lived in the cabin created the mosaics while her partner was off working his traplines. Wherever you sleep, it’s bound to be quiet: the camp’s electricity is largely solar-powered (read: no diesel-generator racket), and few motorboats ply the lake. Also, there’s no cell service anywhere on-site, and just enough internet bandwidth to check your email for emergencies but not nearly enough for doomscrolling. “It’s kind of perfect this way,” says Shute. It’s possible to rent out the whole camp, including its industrial kitchen, for retreats and reunions of up to 24 people.

Eat and Drink

BYO food and drink. You can stock up in the towns of Greenville, two hours southwest, or Millinocket, 90 minutes southeast. Shute does serve morning coffee and tea, plus weekend baked goodies, at the main lodge, an airy gathering space with a woodstove, field guides, maps, and board games, where guests and staffers swap stories and trade intel. On the way in (and heck, on the way out too), stop at in Monson. Might as well close your eyes and point at its specials board—everything there is amazing, not least the pulled-pork sandwiches.

When to Go

DLWC is open for reservations from the second week of May to mid-June, and from late July to Indigenous People’s Day (October 9 this year, October 14 in 2024). Fishing is best early in the season and again in September. Birders should note that peregrine falcons start nesting in the cliffs in late April or so and remain with the chicks into August. The sugar maples in late September and October are a scarlet spectacle.

How to Get There

When you make your reservation, you might want to go over the directions in detail with a staff member. Shute’s crew has taken care to mark all intersections with signs, starting as soon as the pavement ends at the junction of Route 11 and theÌęJo Mary Road. The distance is drivable in a Pruis, easy with all-wheel drive. Or for an aerial experience, can fly you in on a floatplane from Ambajejus Lake, outside Millinocket ($110 per person each way with a two-passenger minimum).

Don’t Miss

Shute recommends spending a day hiking the Debsconeag Backcountry Loop, an eight-mile route around Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, Seventh, and Eighth Debsconeag Lakes. You’ll cross open ledges fuzzed with reindeer lichen and take in views of 3,645-foot White Cap Mountain, the Barren-Chairback Range, and Mount Katahdin.

Details

To book:

Price: From $140 per night

Address: 1094 Nahmakanta Stream Road
T1 R11 Piscataquis County
Nahmakanta Reserve, North Maine Woods, ME

When Gillian Burnes first moved to central Maine 21 years ago, she’d tag along on her soon-to-be-husband’s community organizing trips to the North Woods. Coming from New Mexico, she was alarmed by the bug life at first. But she grew to love the easygoing ruggedness of North Woods camp culture—especially without the diesel generators.

The post At These North Woods Cabins in Maine, Quiet Is the Main Attraction appeared first on șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online.

In 2021, Scott Miller, a 47-year-old nurse from Minneapolis, made his first attempt to break the record for paddling the entire 2,350-mile length of the Mississippi River. At the time, the fastest known time for completing the journey was 18 days, 4 hours and 51 minutes. But on May 21 of that year, near mile 2,200, after 16 days of paddling for 24 hours a day, his team’s boat sank in heavy waves just north of New Orleans. They’d come so far, and been so close to the finish line, only to fail. The result left a bitter taste in Miller’s mouth.

Two weeks later, Miller sat down with his crew chief, Michael “Moose” Dougherty, at an Irish bar in St. Paul, Minnesota. Over Guinnesses, Miller made his pitch: “I’m not going to beat around the bush,” he said. “I’m going again, and I need you to be crew chief.”

Dougherty suspected this was coming. Before driving to the bar he had planned to say no, and he even told his wife there was no way he could do another attempt. A Mississippi River paddle is a huge project, with many risks. And yet, Dougherty heard the words come out of his mouth like someone else was saying them: “Okay,” he told Miller. “I’ll do it.” They decided to plan for the spring of 2023.

The project pitted Miller against his rival, K.J. Millhone, 65, an executive coach and longtime paddler. Millhone and his paddling team, called Mile Marker Zero, had broken the record in 2021, completing the trip in 17 days, 19 hours, and 46 minutes, and he had also set a previous record in 1980. Miller and Millhouse had planned to team up for a 2020 attempt, but the crew had fractured and the attempt was scuttled. Instead, they each had organized separate teams for dueling 2021 attempts.

After his 2021 failure, Miller thought about everything that had gone right—teamwork, planning, organization—and what went wrong, namely the weather. He knew he could improve the journey. He would modify his boat, bring on different paddlers, simplify their nutrition, and streamline their gear. The only thing remaining from his 2021 voyage was Dougherty, a retired corporate PR flack with a love of endurance sports.

Miller, the founder and leader, called his new team Mississippi Speed Record. He recruited a squad of expert paddlers, first bringing on Paul Cox, a digital media editor who was a two-time winner—and current record holder—of the . Next to join was Wally Werderich, a Chicago public defender who’d placed second and third in the Missouri River 340 and had won two national titles. There was Judson Steinback, the 2022 Masters national champion for men’s and mixed canoes. And waiting in the wings as a backup paddler was Joe Mann, also a winner of the Alabama 650.

The team had plenty of paddling power. Miller thought that with good weather, good water, and good luck, they could beat the record. And if they couldn’t, maybeÌęnobody could.

Miller planned to launch on May 3, 2023. But the long winter with heavy snow meant that Minnesota’s Lake Winnibigoshish, a huge shallow lake near the start of the route, was still choked with ice. They would need to cross its 16 miles in their first 24 hours. Even without ice, Winnibigoshish is one of the most dangerous places on the river, because even a slight wind can produce huge waves.

They pushed the launch back to May 7, gathered at Dougherty’s cabin in northern Minnesota, and waited for the ice to melt. Every day, someone went to check the frozen lake. With each new report, the initial excitement waned, and a restlessness grew. The paddlers had hard deadlines, jobs, and lives to return to. If they couldn’t go by May 11, Werdrich, for one, was out. Other team members had similar deadlines.

Finally, on May 9, the paddlers found the lake largely clear, save for about a mile of candle ice, which crumbles and can be plowed through if necessary. The choice seemed to be: Go now, or don’t go at all. They decided to launch.

That afternoon, some members of Miller’s 20-plus person support crewÌędrove to Lake Itasca, the river’s official starting point. The supporters set up camp, while the four paddlers attempted to get one last night of sleep. At 3:30 A.M., the support crew woke up in their tents and began readying the canoe.

The boat was a 23-foot Wenonah Minnesota Four—the same model used on Miller’s previous attempt—only with several modifications. Like the previous boat, the new one had bulkheads installed to help keep water out of the middle two seats. For much of the journey three of the men would paddle while the fourth slept in the boat. New to this boat was a battery system to power lights, an iPad for navigation, and GPS trackers.

Early light began to filter through the trees. Once the canoe was ready, support crew members wheeled it down to the water, where the paddlers were waiting. The four men got in and paddled across Lake Itasca to the row of large stones where the water spills over and the Mississippi River begins. Then at 6 A.M., the paddlers walked the canoe over the rocks and past a small footbridge, and set off down the river.

The water was high and fast. The canoe wound through the marshes, following the river. Almost immediately, they started picking up time. After the first morning, they were ahead of 2021 record pace by an hour.

By evening they arrived in the city of Bemidji, where the support crew passed the team spray skirts to protect them from the icy water, and switched out the battery powering the iPad, Garmin tracker, lights, and the bailer.

Around 5 P.M., they set off across Lake Bemidji. The ice had just melted there too, and the water temperature was 46 degrees—deadly cold if the canoe flipped and they couldn’t get back in. By 1:30 A.M., they arrived at Lake Winnibigoshish, and saw that the ice was gone. After crossing the lake’s glassy surface for the first half of the 16-mile journey, the paddlers encountered winds and high waves, and water pounded the canoe. Still, when they completed the crossing, they were 4 hours and 20 minutes ahead of record pace.

The river turned south. The water was still dangerously high, and it was raging over dams in some sections. In some places, the paddlers simply cut straight through flooded areas of forest. Their lead grew to five hours, then six, then seven. By the time they reached Minneapolis in the middle of the night, they were 12 hours ahead of record pace.

But the river gives, and the river withholds. Miller knew the lead couldn’t be taken for granted,Ìęand that a 12-hour advantage could disappear amid bad weather or a stop to repair the canoe. In St. Paul, the team picked up two support boats, which would follow them all the way to then end, if they made it that far.

The next day they reached Lake Pepin, another shallow, dangerous lake. For five hours, they paddled into a headwind, battling four-foot waves for the lake’s entire 22-mile length.

In 2021, both Millhone’s and Miller’s teams encountered huge storms and high winds. But in 2023, the weather was calmer overall. The paddlers endured one night of cold soaking rain, but as they moved south, the sky cleared and the river remained glassy. Favorable conditions, combined with the high water up north and the strong paddlers, added to the team’s lead.ÌęBy the time they reached Iowa they were 20 hours ahead.

The physical effort, however, was the same for every inch of voyage: one stroke after another—more than a million, by my estimate—down all 2,350 miles of the Mississippi. Eat, drink, sleep, excrete (don’t ask), and paddle. With four guys living together in such close quarters, the canoe was like a soggy bachelor pad. A slurry of liquid collected in the bottom that the paddlers called “people soup,” which the motorized bailer simply could not expel. Instead, the support crew would occasionally clean out the boat, and try to reestablish a modicum of hygiene for the team.

On most days, the heavy current was a blessing. But one night, at Lock & Dam 15 in Iowa, the river’s power nearly ended their journey as they were waiting to pass through the lock. TheÌęlock master told them to paddle to river right, which was above the dam. They followed the order, but once they reached the sheer concrete wall on that side of the lock, the current was so strong it started pulling them toward the dam.

They navigated the boat upstream, but the boat continued moving toward the dam. Cox and Werderich were sleeping in the bottom of the boat as the team neared calamity. They woke up to Steinback yelling, “Get up, now!”

“It was like a 1,000-percent sprint,” says Steinback. “It was one of the most harrowing moments of my entire life.”

Even with the added muscle, their boat continued its backward drift. They radioed the support boat, which came alongside, and the men held onto it as it motored them away from disaster. It was a close call, but Mississippi River record attempts are full of near misses.

“I woke up like every night to—I don’t want to say screams from above,” says Cox, “but let’s say, urgent commands.”

Below the dam, the team decided to rest, sleeping for three hours before paddling on. In the ensuing days they gained back the lost time and added ten more hours to their advantage. For several days, their lead over the 2021 record hovered at 30 hours. But as they got closer to the Gulf of Mexico, the team encountered barge traffic and ocean-going ships. On several occasions, they had to stop to let the massive boats pass.

“When you get down to Baton Rouge,” says Cox, “It’s like you’re playing Frogger trying to get across. You’re a tiny little blip on the radar screen.”

The team decided that it was okay to sacrifice an hour here and there to avoid the barges and ships. As a result, their lead dropped from 31 hours, to 28, to 25, as they got closer to Louisiana. North of Baton Rouge, the margin fell to 22:47, even though they were paddling up to 170 miles a day.

With around 200 miles left, they sped up, pushing the lead back up to 23 hours. They passed the place where Miller sank in 2021 and sped through New Orleans, then through the bends further south. They paddled down the last stretch of the Mississippi as night fell on Friday, May 26.

Around 2 A.M. on Saturday, they came into the area known as the “Head of Passes,” where the river splits into three channels. There sits a rickety wooden structure called Mile Marker Zero which marks the official end of the Mississippi River.

The team paddled toward the area with several boats alongside them; one was loaded with cheering family and support crew. But even though the team was nearing the end, Miller refused to allow himself to celebrate until they had reached the official finish line, which was marked by a shining light against the dark river.

“There are so many things that can happen at any moment,” Miller said. “Even at the very end, we didn’t know exactly where we were going, and everybody was screaming and yelling which light to aim for. I was like, ‘Oh my God, we’re going to hit a buoy!’”

Finally someone found the right light, and they headed for it. At 2:15 A.M., they finally arrived at Mile Marker Zero. They tied up the boat, then the four paddlers—Cox, Werderich, Steinback, and Miller—climbed on the platform.

“I was crying because there were so many emotions,” Steinbeck says. “It was all adrenaline, euphoria, gratitude, and just immense fatigue. But when I climbed up on Mile Marker Zero, I felt weightless. Like there was no effort at all.”

The air was filled with the cheers and airhorns—celebration and victory. They had beaten the 2021 record by 23 hours and 30 minutes, setting a new standard of 16 days, 20 hours and 16 minutes.

On top of Mile Marker Zero, in a small waterproof box, there’s a log book that anyone who reaches the end of the river can sign. The paddlers opened it and signed their names.

“It felt like we just won the Super Bowl or something,” Miller says. “It was just so much more amazing of an ending than I ever could have imagined.”

The post A Record-Breaking Paddle Down the Mississippi River appeared first on șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online.

April Lee told her story to Sarah Fuss Kessler for an episode of The Daily Rally podcast. It has been edited for length and clarity.

It was just wind, water, all this maybe spit, flying in my eyes. I couldn’t see properly. And I’m in charge of everything we’ve been doing all year.

I grew up in Honolulu, Hawaii, to Korean immigrant parents. And while culturally it was different in Hawaii than in Korea, there were still some very gender-ized roles that were expected of us. I had an older brother, and he was given opportunities that I wasn’t. He got to go to swimming school, and I just taught myself how to swim. He went to space camp, the Boy Scouts.

This family or household culture that I came from, it didn’t always feel like it really fit. I just felt like I was piecing things together, searching for my identity.

There was a huge transition for me from sixth grade to seventh grade. I moved from a parochial school into this progressive school called Punahou. Everything was so much broader, and so much more individualistic. I fell into a group of friends, and they invited me to join a canoe paddling club with them. It was the first time for all of us.

The Lƍkahi Canoe Club was run by this Hawaiian family, an extremely loving family, with a real embrace of the dignity of the sport, the tradition of the sport, the beauty of the sport, the spiritual aspects. It felt respectful in the way that a lot of Asian cultures are towards their ancestors and elders. But in the context that really made sense to me, because it was the place where I was born.

But, this wasn’t a canoe club that necessarily won a lot of the regattas, either. I think our dues were probably a little cheaper than the other ones. It was super inclusive. It was super diverse. And we didn’t start off with a physical advantage. I’m 105 pounds on a good day. We were all just very slight, a little runt-y looking.

A lot of our friends were part of the Outrigger Canoe Club, which was the first Canoe Club in Hawaii. When it was created, it was only open to white people. There were all these stories of people whose parents weren’t allowed to go there when they were younger children. But these were girls were very strong. When you saw them practice, they would lunge their arms forward, and grab and dig into the ocean. You’re really using brute force.

We had a coach named Joy Waikoloa, and she was an incredible mentor, an incredible coach. She had these smaller paddles designed for us. So instead of this jerking-lunge-pullback paddling style, ours was much more about feeling the rhythm, and being as aerodynamic and smooth as possible. We would be observing and feeling each other, observing and feeling the conditions. Read waves, read wind, understand currents. So working in harmony with nature.

In an outrigger canoe, there are six seats. Sometimes I was seat number five, which, even though it’s important, it’s kind of thought of as like the seat for the weakest link. Towards the middle-end of regatta season, our coach saw that there was a really good relationship between me and my friend Kristen, who is usually seat number one. Seat number one is the person who’s really reading, the ocean currents, is setting the pace. Seat number two sets the rhythm for the other side of the boat. Kristen was kind of like a nucleus. She was a leader. And I started to be in the second position. I was like her vice president.

At a certain point, we ended up winning a couple of races, which was super surprising to all of us. One team, they were definitely a lot bigger than us, tougher than us. And that team sent us like death threats, wrote these notes saying that they were gonna kill us if we won. I mean, some thrilling stuff for seventh grade girls. Oh, wow—we’re suddenly a force to be contended with. People are paying attention to the runts!

We were adolescent girls, navigating school dances and Latin class. But we were also learning how to read the ocean. We had this whole other world, and this became a part of our identity. We were paddlers.

We made it to the state championships, and that was a really big deal. We didn’t think we were gonna be able to make it. And a week before, Joy announced the lineup, and she said that she wanted me to be in seat one and Kristen to be in seat two. And it was this moment of, Uh, wait, did I hear that right? People were literally saying, “Oh, you mean Kristen will be in seat one?”
She’s like, “Nope, I’m switching it.”

I remember asking Joy later about her decision. I was like, “Are you sure you don’t want Kristen to do it?” Because I think we all agree that she’s the natural Leader in this group. And Joy’s like, “I’ve been watching you, you are really good at reading the ocean. You have this kind of calm perseverance. You’re steady.” There was something steady about me.

When we got to the state championships, I’m afraid of Kristen’s disappointment. I’m afraid of letting the team down. We get into the boat, and it’s terrible conditions. Blustery, cold, windy. The best teams from all the islands that make up the state of Hawaii were all lined up. I think I was like halfway ready to black out from nerves.

They shoot the gun, and we take off.

I remember all I could hear was Kristen screaming at me to go faster. I was just like, Oh shit! Paddling like crazy. I can see the boats on either side of us, in front of us. I just hear so much screaming. I’m in charge of everything we’ve been doing all year.

Then I just remember this moment where I was like, April, like you got this. You set the pace. And it was just this moment of dropping into myself. It was kind of like, Forget everything else. You have to do your job and you can do it. You just have to be steady.

I do remember something that Joy had told us during practice. She said, “When all the conditions are right, if you guys hear each other, if you can feel each other, if you can paddle in sync, where your bodies are moving in sync, and your breath is moving in sync, in harmony with the ocean, the boat sings.

There were something like 25 boats, and you had to be in the top five to place. We first of all never thought we’d be able to make it to finals at all, and our boat came in fifth place. It was a crazy feeling.

Kristen gave me a huge hug, and I remember my coach Joy, the smile on her face was like one I’ve never seen. She was so proud of us. I felt really proud of myself.

My coach really saw in me something that I never saw in myself, and it was very different than my parents. It was different than some of the teachers I’d had in the past or some of the friends. I had never been seen in this way.

And so I started experimenting a little bit more. I got the lead in the play. I tried speech and debate club in eighth grade. There were a lot of things that I wouldn’t have ever thought of doing prior to that.

I think the reflection of others, in community, can be a very powerful way of, finding yourself.

April Lee is an actor and creative consultant who lives in Ojai, California with her two young daughters. She enjoys surfing, hiking, and singing in her ladies choir.

You can followÌęThe Daily RallyÌęonÌę,Ìę,Ìę, or wherever you like to listen. and to be featured on the show.

The post April Lee Is Ready for Her Next Test appeared first on șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online.

When Scott Pirsig’s close friend Bob Sturtz suffered a stroke deep in Minnesota’s Boundary Waters, Pirsig had no choice but to leave him in the wilderness and make a desperate sprint to get help. The two men had been on an early-spring canoeing adventure when Sturtz started acting strangely: it started with a headache, then he became disoriented, lost control of his hands, and stopped speaking. Pirsig’s only choice was zip him into a sleeping bag and beg him to stay put while he raced off into the fog to contact first responders. In this replay from our Science of Survival series, we hear the story of a harrowing scenario in the woods wild and an enduring friendship.ÌęÌę

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