Canada Archives - șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online /tag/canada/ Live Bravely Sat, 22 Feb 2025 03:20:28 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Canada Archives - șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű Online /tag/canada/ 32 32 The South Face of Mount Robson Sees a First Ski Descent /outdoor-adventure/snow-sports/mount-robson-ski-descent/ Fri, 21 Feb 2025 23:44:39 +0000 /?p=2697224 The South Face of Mount Robson Sees a First Ski Descent

On February 17, Christina Lustenberger and Gee Pierrel skied the first descent of the Great Couloir on the South Face of Mount Robson

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The South Face of Mount Robson Sees a First Ski Descent

The sun was setting over the South Face of 12,972-foot Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, when Canadian professional ski mountaineer Christina “Lusti” Lustenberger and IFMGA guide Guillaume “Gee” Pierrel decided to bail on their climb.

The two were attempting a first descent of the peak’s Great Couloir on February 13, and were just 650 feet shy of the summit when they decided to turn around.

“At that point we thought ‘Oh my God, future me would wanna go back, but I need a break from this.'” Lustenberger toldÌęșÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű.

Lustenberger and Pierrel, hot on the heels of their astoundingÌęset of first descents on New Zealand’s 12,218-foot Mount Cook, were attempting to put their stamp on a face that has tested mountaineering greats for generations. Famed Canadian alpinist Barry Blanchard established a route called “Infinite Patience” on the mountain’s Emperor Face 2002, and in 2016, the late Marc-AndrĂ© Leclerc climbed that route solo.

Canadians Ptor Spricenieks and Troy Jungen skied the first descent of the peak in 1995, a line that would later enter the book . Their line, the North Face, has only been skied once since, by .

“Robson holds the names of so many legends of skiing and climbing,” Lustenberger said. “It’s iconic in so many ways and for Gee and I to put our names up there with those greats is incredibly meaningful.”

The South Face of Mount Robson
Lustenberger and Pierrel’s route down the South Face of Mount Robson. (Photo: Blake Gordon)

Lustenberger and Pierrel’s descent on that first attempt would prove to be much more difficult than the climb. The skiers had to reverse several pitches of mixed rock and ice climbing, ski some of the worst snow they’d ever encountered, and rig seven rappels through sections of decaying sedimentary rock and vertical ice—all in the dark.

The pair began their first attempt on February 13, and had attempted to climb the south face over two days, setting up camp halfway up the mountain while temperatures dropped below minus-13 degrees Fahrenheit.

On the way down, they packed up their camp and descended carefully. The Great Couloir is shaped like a giant funnel, and the further Lustenberger and Pierrel descended, the greater the risk that falling rock and ice could injure or kill them. The two ski mountaineers exited the lower gully through a section of trees so tight they had to remove their skis. They finally returned to their motor home at 10 P.M.

“On that first attempt, the snow was so bad,” Pierrel toldÌęșÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű. “Hard, icy, all the stuff fell down the chute that day made little bumps and waves. The skiing was terrible.”

After regrouping in the nearby town of Valemount for a few days, Lustenberger and Pierrel returned to Mount Robson with a film crew. The team flew to the east side of the mountain and began climbing the Kain Route, a world-famous alpine climb, on February 15.

It had snowed during their break in Valemount, and conditions were much better for skiing when they returned. “Mt. Robson creates its own weather system,” Lustenberger said.

The skiers set out in sub-zero temperatures—ideal for keeping the rock and snow glued into place. “That’s why I invited Gee to come in February,” she said. “Robson has such a big South Face that we wanted to limit solar radiation. The sun is so intense in March that it would shed. Earlier than February, the days are too short.”

Luckily, the snow didn’t hide the rappel anchors the duo had placed on their first attempt a few days prior, which sped up their descent from the summit. This proved to be key for their safety in The Great Colouir.

“It’s like playing Russian Roulette, a game of chance,” said Pierrel. “We called the lower part of the descent the Cascade. You’re funneled through these little gullies. We can control how fast we move through those gullies but not what comes down on our heads.”

In recent years, Lustenberger has skied lines that have previous ski mountaineers haven’t even considered—Robson, Cook, the Great Trango Tower. These ski lines are essentially ice climbing routes that Lustenberger has descended on skis.

șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű asked her and Pierrel how they approach these routes, given the increasing danger around each objective.

“When you step into that line you’re accepting a huge amount of consequences that you can’t control,” said Lustenberger. “I think that’s part of being in the mountains. But I felt like Mount Robson was an important part of my vision and journey. It was something I felt viscerally compelled to do.”

Pierrel and Lustenberger eyeing up their line on Mount Robson.
Pierrel and Lustenberger eyeing up their line. (Photo: Blake Gordon)

Lustenberger said she’s assessed the south face of Mount Robson for a decade. “I decided to go this season because my requirements lined up. After skiing with Gee in New Zealand, I knew I had a partner that I trust completely and move really well with in the mountains,” Lustenberger said.

Pierrel is a guide, and he is accustomed to operating with much wider margins of safety. “This was so far from the style of risk management I often use in the mountains as a guide,” he said. “At one point I said ‘I’m too old for this shit, I’m not made of iron like you Lusti.’”

Pierrel said that by the end of the descent he was physically and mentally exhausted from the stress of being exposed to falling rock and ice. “Personally, I pushed pretty close to the maximum,” he added.

On February 16, after their painfully close attempt three days prior, the two ski mountaineers reached the summit and then carved their signatures down the South Face of the Rockies’ most formidable peak.

“Robson is the King of the Rockies,” Lustenberger said. “It’s elevation relief and scope is real, Himalayan-style terrain sitting in the Canadian Rockies. I am so relieved to be on the other side of this project. It’s been a dream in the making, one I had thought about for years. My ski partner Gee was a force and we worked hard as a team. Constantly pushing ourselves and each other to another level.”

Their film about the expedition, produced by production company Sherpas Cinemas, will come out in late 2025. As for what’s next? Pierrel hinted his interest in attempting to ski Mount Everest’s Hornbein Couloir, a line he describes as extremely similar to Robson’s Great Couloir—if it sat on the Roof of the World.

But first, both skiers told șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű they needed a relaxing trip to the sauna.

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Canada Responds to American Pacific Crest Trail Border Ban: U.S. Did It First /outdoor-adventure/hiking-and-backpacking/pacific-crest-trail-border-ban/ Fri, 31 Jan 2025 23:27:17 +0000 /?p=2695621 Canada Responds to American Pacific Crest Trail Border Ban: U.S. Did It First

In a statement on Monday, the Canada Border Services Agency noted that the U.S. prohibits southbound PCT thru hikers from crossing into Washington from British Columbia

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Canada Responds to American Pacific Crest Trail Border Ban: U.S. Did It First

Canada’s border authority expanded on its decision to bar Pacific Crest Trail hikers from crossing into the country earlier this week, noting that its new policy mirrors the United States’ refusal to permit southbound hikers to begin their hikes by crossing the border into American territory.

In , the Canada Border Service Agency (CBSA) confirmed it would no longer issue permits for PCT hikers to cross into E.C. Manning Provincial Park at the trail’s northern terminus, and said that the change would “facilitate monitoring of compliance of trail users” as well as increase security at the border. In addition, the agency noted that the move “aligns with the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) who does not allow travellers to enter the U.S. from Canada on the trail.”

Northbound thru-hikers will now need to end their trips by backtracking to the nearest road crossing at Harts Pass, roughly 30 miles away; those who still wish to hike the extension of the trail into Canada will then need to travel to the nearest border crossings at Osoyoos or Abbotsford, both of which are roughly 60 straight-line miles from the trail.

In a blog post, the called the announcement “disappointing,” but acknowledged the CBSA’s points, including that the new policy mirrors one that the U.S. has long held.

“Hikers and equestrians should turn around after reaching the Northern Terminus,” the group wrote. “We ask that everyone travels with the utmost respect for nature by practicing gold standard Leave No Trace practices. This area will experience increased use now that more people are traveling this section of the PCT twice.”

The change comes at a tense time for U.S.-Canada relations, as on imports from it and Mexico on February 1 if the two countries don’t take steps to deter unauthorized crossings. This week, the Royal Canadian Mounted Police unveiled a new fleet of leased Black Hawk helicopters that it is using to step up enforcement along the border.

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The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World /adventure-travel/destinations/long-walks-world/ Mon, 27 Jan 2025 10:30:25 +0000 /?p=2694715 The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World

We’re not talking about big thru-hikes, but extended pathways through glorious landscapes in some of the most stunning places in the world

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The 13 Most Magical Long Walks In the World

I’ve tackled sections of the Pacific Crest Trail—backpacking, day hiking, and trail running—but to think of taking months off to complete all 2,650 miles of this trail, which climbs mountain passes and traverses remote California, Oregon, and Washington, feels overwhelming. A long-distance walk, on the other hand, feels more manageable, like something any of us could pull off, given some time. They mostly involve days and weeks rather than many months, and are at more consistent elevations.

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I’m not talking about a mountainous thru-hike where you plan out food caches and sleep on the ground. I’m talking about a meandering or purposeful walk that goes on for days, weeks, or maybe months. A big commitment, yes. A physical feat for sure. A mental and emotional pilgrimage of sorts. But not so strenuous that most people couldn’t do it, building up their mileage.

These long walks, on byways and moderate terrain, are more like scenic tours of spectacular landscapes, or adventurous journeys through cities and forests. They are not so much to be completed as experienced.

And I think they’re the most beautiful in the world.

1. Best Urban Trail

Empire State Trail, New York

Empire State Trail, New York, passes George Washington Bridge over the Hudson River
The Manhattan Greenway section of the New York State Empire Trail. This stretch runs under the George Washington Bridge, passing the Little Red Lighthouse. (Photo: Courtesy NYSDED)ÌęÌę

It took four years to link up and complete the entire , one of the longest multi-sport pathways in the United States, officially finished in late 2020. The route runs 750 miles across the state of New York, from New York City north to the Canadian border and from Albany west to Buffalo. Three quarters of the trail is on off-road pathways. You can walk on converted rail trails through the Hudson River Valley, stroll beside the historic Erie Canal, or move through wetlands and fields along Adirondack Park and Lake Champlain. Eventually the trail will include a 200-mile greenway across Long Island; construction of the first 25 miles of that section begins this year.

Empire State Trail starts in downtown New York
One end of the New York Empire State Trail is, of course, in Manhattan. (Photo: Courtesy NYSDED)

Pick a section of this largely urban route, which is also popular with bicyclists, and walk it one direction, then hop on a train back to where you started—Amtrak stations are located in 20 towns and cities along the way. Find community with others traveling the trail or seek tips on good trailside lodging or camping from .


Don’t Miss:Ìę ÌęMore than 200 craft breweries dot the Empire State Trail, in an aggregate known as the . Get a brewery passport and pick up stamps at the places along the way to earn rewards like a T-shirt or cooler bag. In the Hudson Valley, spend a night at (from $195), which has cabins, canvas tents, and a cedar sauna just a short walk from the trail.

ÌęÌę

2. Best Pilgrimage

El Camino de Santiago, Spain

El Camino de Santiago
A walker on El Camino de Santiago encounters miles of green, interspersed with fields of red poppies, on the way to Santo Domingo de laÌęCalzada, Spain. (Photo: Pam Ranger Roberts)

Each year, over 300,000 people embark upon sections of this legendary pilgrimage, on a network of trails dating back to pre-medieval times and roadways that vary from cobbled to paved. The most popular route is the Camino Frances, a 500-mile pathway that starts in St. Jean Pied de Port, France, and takes travelers about four to five weeks to walk, passing through the Pyrenees mountains and La Rioja wine region, La Meseta arid range, and through eucalyptus forests into Galicia and Santiago itself. The Camino Portugues, heading up the northern coast of Portugal is another top choice, stretching between 140 and 380 miles depending on your starting point, and crossing through fishing villages such as the UNESCO Heritage Listed cities of Lisbon and Porto. No matter which route you choose, all roadsÌęon the Camino lead to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain, where the remains of the Apostle Saint James the Great are allegedly buried.

12th century bridge of Ponte Maceira, on the Camino Finisterre, Spain
Between Santiago de Compostela and Finisterre (from Latin terms for “the end of the earth”) on the Camino de Finisterre, which takes pilgrims to the Galician Coast of Spain, is the medieval bridge of Ponte Maceira. Legend holds that the bridge collapsed behind the followers of St. James as they fled Roman soldiers. (Photo: Pam Ranger Roberts)

You can walk the Camino year-round—the most popular season is mid-summer—but aim for spring or fall for mild temperatures and fewer crowds, and be aware that many lodges and albergues close in winter ). offers guided walks on the Camino through Portugal and Spain lasting from a week up to 22 days (from $1,436), or, if you’d rather go on your own, has self-guided options (from $718).

Don’t Miss: Once you reach Santiago de Compostela, head to the Pilgrim’s Office for your official stamp of completion, having received a pilgrim’s passport from your entry point to be stamped along the way. Bagpipes will be playing nearby as you enter the gates of the holy Santiago de Compostela.ÌęThe cathedral has a Pilgrim’s Mass at noon and 7:30 p.m. daily; go early if you want a seat. On , await the ancient ritual of the swinging brass Botafumeiro, or cauldron, which is filled with incense and coal and so heavy eight men are required to move it.

3. Best Waterfront Route

Stockholm Archipelago Trail, Sweden

Stockholm Archipelago Trail, Sweden
The Stockholm Archipelago Trail only opened this past autumn. While traditionally visitors have stayed close to the beautiful capital city of Stockholm and the islands near it, the trail invites them into the outer archipelago. (Photo: Courtesy Henrik Trygg/Visit Sweden)Ìę

Opening in October 2023, the 167-mile connects new and existing pathways across 20 islands in the Stockholm Archipelago, the largest archipelago in Sweden and home to over 30,000 islands. To walk the whole thing, you’ll need to use a series of public ferries and private boat taxis. You can also pick a section and just walk a few islands at a time; each has an average of about nine miles of trails. You’ll travel along gravel roads, forest paths, and beaches, and through remote fishing and farming communities.

Along the way, camp or stay in hotels or B&Bs. offers a seven-day, self-guided journey on the trail (from $1,095) in spring, summer, or fall that includes lodging in locally owned hotels, luggage transfer, and daily routes that max out at about nine miles.

Stockholm Archipelago Trail with island, inlet and lighthouse
Sweden is known for its lighthouses, the oldest dating back to 1689 and originally lit with a real fire. (Photo: Courtesy Roger Borgelid/Visit Sweden)

Don’t Miss: On the island of Tranholmen, a celebrated chef named David Enmark opens up his home to diners every Friday night—. Or visit the island of Furusund, which contains about five miles of trail and is site of a famed 19th-century summer resort, now a 16-room boutique hotel: the (rooms from $121), which welcomes guests who arrive by boat or on foot.

4. Best for History Buffs

Lycian Way, Turkey

aerial view of Lycian Way, coast of Lycia, southern Turkey
The Lycian Way is a signed footpath curving around the coast of Lycia in southern Turkey. Parts of it date back to the time of the invading Alexander the Great and the Persians, with their Greek influence. Later, Lycia became part of the Roman Empire, as seen in its many ancient Roman ruins. (Photo: Courtesy Montis)

Traversing the rocky Mediterranean coast of southwestern Turkey, the 472-mile Lycian Way winds through the ancient maritime republic known as Lycia. Mountains rise from the turquoise sea as the route follows old roads, footpaths, and mule trails through long-gone civilizations. You’ll pass by lighthouses, beaches, historic sites like Roman amphitheaters and rock tombs, and lagoons over underwater ruins of sunken cities that can be toured by boat.

Most people take on just a section of the Lycian Way. has five- to 14-day guided tours (from $1,187) that include lodging and luggage transfer, or leads seven-day treks (from $995) with an English-speaking guide. Best to do this historical walk in spring or fall, from February to May or from September to November to avoid the high heat of summer.

Lycian Way over the Mediterranean
The Lycian Way takes mainly old Roman roads and mule trails on the southern Mediterranean coast of Turkey. (Photo: Courtesy Montis)Ìę

Don’t Miss: °ŐłÜ°ù°ì±đČâ’s illuminates Lycia’s ancient capital city of Patara after dusk, making it a magical place to explore by night. Best lodging on the trail: the (from $240), built in 2005 on a hillside, has glass windows, viewing hammocks, and saunas overlooking the Aegean Sea.

5. Best for Conservationists

John Muir Way, Scotland

John Muir Way across Scotland
The John Muir Way, a coast-to-coast trail across central Scotland and up into the Highlands, is named for the American wilderness preservationist and author, who was born here. (Photo: Courtesy John Muir Trust)

Not to be confused with California’s more demanding John Muir Trail, the is a relatively new route (established around 10 years ago) that stretches coast to coast across Muir’s home country of Scotland. This 134-mile walk begins in the western waterfront town of Helensburgh, where quotes from the famed Scottish-American environmentalist mark a commemorative stone bench. The trek ends around 10 days later in the eastern seaside town of Dunbar, where Muir was born in 1838.

Dirleton Castle, East Lothian, Scotland.
The route passes the ruins of the medieval Dirleton Castle, in the village of Dirleton, East Lothian. The castle welcomes trekkers and is a stamping point for the John Muir Way passport. (Photo: Courtesy John Muir Trust)

On the way, you’ll walk through the cobbled streets of the capital city of Edinburgh, along the shores of , and by the Falkirk Wheel, a rotating boat lift in central Scotland. has self-guided itineraries (from $1,827) for the entire route, including accommodations.


Don’t Miss: Stay in (from $417), a restored 16th-century castleÌęjust off the trail 20 miles east of Edinburgh. The trail’s eastern terminus is at Muir’s birthplace, a humble three-story home in Dunbar that’s now a historic and free to visit.

6. Best for Self-Reflection

Shikoku Pilgrimage, Japan

pilgrimage island of Shikoku
The Shikoku Temple Pilgrimage is one of the world’s few circular pilgrimages, visiting 88 temples and other sacred sites associated with the venerated Buddhist monk KĆ«kai, who founded the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism. (Photo: Courtesy Shikoku Tourism)

This circular walk across the Japanese island of Shikoku visits 88 temples and sacred sites where the Buddhist saint known as KĆ«kai is thought to have trained in the 9th century. The entire route is about 745 miles—mostly using roads, but also on select mountain trails—and takes around six weeks to walk. Or you can choose just a section.

The traditional approach starts at the first temple, Ryƍzenji, in Tokushima prefecture and proceeds clockwise until you reach the last temple, ƌkuboji, in Kagawa prefecture. Many pilgrims dress in traditional attire, including a white cotton robe, scarf, and straw hat, and carrying a walking stick; they also carry pilgrims’ books, to be stamped after worshipping at each temple. leads an eight-day tour of the pilgrimage (from $2,303), where you’ll walk up to eight miles daily with an English-speaking guide, staying at guesthouses and temple lodging.

Don’t Miss: One of the hardest temples to reach is number 21, Tairyuji, or Temple of the Great Dragon. You can ride the tram to reach this mountaintop temple or hike to the site on a steep three-mile trail through limestone rocks and an ancient cedar forest. There you’ll climb a marble staircase leading into the temple gates and visit a bronze statue of KĆ«kai meditating.

7. Best for Wildlife Spotting

Yuraygir Coastal Walk, Australia

Yuraygir Coastal Walk, Australia
This 40-mile, point-to-point coastal walk traces the old game trails of Australia’s emus. (Photo: Courtesy Life’s An șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű)

The 42-mile point-to-point leads through the beaches and bluffs of Yuraygir National Park in New South Wales. You’ll start in the village of Angourie and follow the sign-posted track, as trails are called in Australia and New Zealand, south to the red-tinted cliffs of Red Rock. Most people take four to five days to do the whole route. Along the way, you’ll spot turtles and whales, swim in the Pacific Ocean, and walk through coastal headlands and the biodiverse Solitary Islands Marine Park.

Spend your first night on the trail camping at the , which is only accessible on foot. Or if you’d prefer sleeping in a bed, book a guided walk that includes shuttles to trailside properties like (from $234) or (from $125). leads a guided five-day walk of the trail (prices vary according to group size and season) for private groups from November to April that includes luggage delivery, boat and bus transfers, national-park fees, and accommodations. If you’d rather go it on your own, you can base out of the family-owned in Wooli, and the owners will arrange for lifts to the trail each day (from $499, including lodging and hiker shuttles).

Don’t Miss: Stop into the beachfront , about halfway through your route, for a sausage roll or pizza. Spend some time at the and estuary, a breeding site for endangered shorebirds including the pied oystercatcher and beach stone-curlew. The trail along the Station Creek estuary is lined with scribbly gum and corkwood trees, and if you’re lucky, you’ll spot an Australian crane or coastal emu.

8. Most Adventurous

Te Araroa, New Zealand

New-Zealand-Te-Araroa
Te Araroa, opened in 2011, traverses New Zealand’s two main islands, connecting old and new tracks and walkways. Some people chose to cover one island rather than both. (Photo: Courtesy Miles Holden)

New Zealand is known for its stellar tracks, and , also called the Long Pathway, is the country’s most ambitious trail project yet. It’s a 1,900-mile journey crossing the length of New Zealand’s North and South Islands, from Cape Reinga at the north end to Bluff at the southern tip. The trail itself climbs mountain passes, crosses verdant plains, and travels through small cities and remote villages. Roughly 2,000 people walk the whole trail each year, taking between three and six months. Most hikers go north to south, starting around October, which is springtime in New Zealand. If you don’t have that kind of time, pick a section or a single island; the South Island is considered the more challenging of the two due to its more mountainous terrain.

While this video shows a Te Araroa thru-hike, some choose a section or decide to hike either the North Island or South Island. The South Island is more remote and considered more difficult, the North Island route longer but with more road walking. (Video: șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű TV) Ìę

Before you go, ($34) to receive the latest maps and a Te Araroa walker-information packet. Buy a (from $110) for access to over 70 Department of Conservation-managed backcountry huts and campsites along Te Araroa. The trail also has Ìęto help you plan and navigate, and the trail notes for each section give details on the route and where to stay and resupply. Or you can book a guided 12-day trip with (from $8,595) and let the outfit take care of the logistics, including hotel bookings.

Don’t Miss: On the North Island, you’ll climb the extinct volcano of Mount Pirongia and descend to the valley below, where you’ll walk by the glowworm-studded , which are worth a stop; you can see the illuminating glowworms in their grottos by boat. On the South Island, spend a night at the 12-bunk, first-come, first-served near Wanaka, which has stunning views from the porch overlooking the Motatapu Valley and a nice swimming hole in the adjacent creek.

9. Best Way to Explore Indigenous Cultures

Vancouver Island Trail, Canada

hiker and misty lake in Strathcona Provincial Park, British Columbia
Moving through Strathcona Provincial Park, the oldest provincial park in British Columbia, Canada, with a furry friend (Photo: Courtesy Ben Giesbrech/Destination BC)

Vancouver Island, British Columbia, is a rugged and densely forested place, and the 500-mile is among the most challenging routes on this list. The trail goes from the capital city of Victoria on the southern end of the island to Cape Scott on the northern tip, crossing rocky beaches and through lush rainforests and territories sacred to First Nations tribes, including the Songhees in the south and the Tlatlasikwala to the north. The trail is broken up into seven distinct sections, from paved pathways through urban areas to logging roads, hiking trails, and rail trails. Each section takes around five to 10 days to walk—or you can spend two months doing a complete thru-hike. Some sections of the trail are still being completed and not well marked, so plan on some skilled route finding or that’s better delineated. If you’re walking the trail northbound, you’ll end in , where the Cape Scott Lighthouse has been shining light for mariners since 1960.ÌęÌę

beach on Vancouver Island Trail, British Columbia, Canada
Exploring the beaches of San Josef Bay in Cape Scott Provincial Park, Vancouver Island Trail, British Columbia, Canada (Photo: Courtesy Shayd Johnson/Destination BC)

Don’t Miss: Book a cabin or pitch a tent at the First Nations-owned , between the northern towns of Port McNeill and Port Hardy. At the center of Vancouver Island, you’ll walk through Strathcona Provincial Park, British Columbia’s oldest park, dotted with high-alpine lakes and jagged snow-capped peaks. The , on the outskirts of the park, has eight seasonal campsites and a sauna.

10. Best New Trail

Camino de Costa Rica, Costa Rica

dirt track on E Camino-de Costa Rica
El Camino de Costa Rica, inspired by El Camino de Santiago, goes from the Carribean Coast of Costa Rica on the Atlantic Ocean to the shores of the Pacific. (Photo: Courtesy AsociaciĂłn Mar a Mar)

You’ll walk from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean to the beaches of the Pacific Ocean on the 174-mile-long , or the Costa Rican Way, which was inspired by Spain’s El Camino de Santiago. This relatively new trail—established in 2018 by the nonprofit Asociación Mar a Mar—travels through coffee plantations and rainforests, over the Continental Divide, and among tiny villages that rarely see tourists. Plan on around 16 days to hike the whole thing.

The trip starts on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, in the town of Barra de Parismina, at the base of Tortuguero National Park, known as a nesting ground for leatherback turtles. It ends in Quepos near Manuel Antonio National Park, filled with coral reefs and white-sand beaches. Stay in guesthouses, campsites, and hotels along the way. You will want to hire a guide, as much of the trail is sparsely marked. leads guided hikes ranging from eight to 16 days (from $1,675) that include meals and stays at local homes and guesthouses.

Don’t Miss: In the Orosi Valley, stay at the (from $59), which has private casitas and rooms close to the trail. In the town of Orosi, you can visit Iglesia de San JosĂ© Orosi, the oldest church in Costa Rica, dating back to 1743, and its Religious Art Museum, and the .

11. Best Paved Trail

Paul Bunyan State Trail, Minnesota

the tree-lined Paul Bunyan and Blue Ox bike trail, Bemidji, Minnesota
The Paul Bunyan and Blue Ox bike trail, ending in Bemidji, Minnesota, is also great for walking. The route connects the Heartland Trail, the Blue Ox Trail, and the Cuyuna State Trail. (Photo: Courtesy Explore Minnesota)

Most popular with cyclists, the Paul Bunyan State Trail is still a great long walk for those who want a paved, accessible pathway. The route begins at in Brainerd and ends 115 miles later at in Bemidji, home to a famous giant statue of Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox, Babe. This is the longest continuously paved rail-trail in the country, moderate in grade throughout as it follows the former Burlington Northern Railroad, abandoned in 1983. You can camp at and Lake , or stay in hotels in the various trail towns along the way.

Don’t Miss: You’ll walk through the town of Hackensack, where every September chainsaw carvers turn hunks of wood into art in the annual Chainsaw Event. The (from $89) in the town of Nisswa has rooms and lakefront cottages steps from the trail on Lower Cullen Lake. In Pequot Lakes, stop into the trailside for a scoop of ice cream.

12. Best for Foodies

Cinque Terra, Italy

the five seaside villages of the Cinque Terre, Italy
Ancient trails connect the five seaside villages of the Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera, known for fresh seafood dishes, fine wine, and more. (Photo: Courtesy Visit Cinque Terre)

Cinque Terre or “Five Lands” refers to five coastal towns—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore—over the the Ligurian Sea, all linked by about 75 miles of hiking trails. The most popular route is the Sentiero Azzurro, known as the Blue Trail, which is less than 10 miles and can be done in a day. You can start in Monterosso or Riomaggiore and work your way in either direction, passing through lemon groves and walking staircases directly down to the sea.

For a more expanded tour, consider five- or eight-day self-guided hiking trips in Cinque Terre, where you’ll stay in curated hotels, dine on pizza and gelato from locals’ favorite spots, and ride trains to reach new trails each day. If you’re hiking on your own, be sure to check the for updates on closures (landslides have closed sections of the trail), and grab a (from $7 a day) for access to the two paid hiking trails—from Monterosso to Vernazza and from Vernazza to Corniglia—and for use of the bus lines within Cinque Terre National Park.

Don’t Miss: Climb the stairs to Doria Castle, a medieval fortress near the village of Vernazza, to see the remains of one of the oldest surviving towers on the Liguria coast. The five-room guesthouse (from $208) in the Unesco World Heritage Site of Vernazza makes for a good midway stop on your hike.

13. Most Accessible

Cotswold Way, England

The St. James Church, as seen across a meadow in Chipping Campden, a market village established in the 7th century (Photo: Courtesy Cotswolds Tourism)

The is a quintessentially English experience, where you’ll walk from the historic market town of Chipping Campden, once a busy center for traders, to the steps of the Late Medieval church of Bath Abbey, crossing through farmlands, country parks, and beech woodlands. Stop and admire fields full of sculptures or study English Civil War sites. This well-marked 102-mile trail can be traveled in either direction, taking between seven and 10 days. has both guided and self-guided walks (from $1,154) ranging from between seven and 12 nights, where you’ll sleep in limestone cottages and guesthouses.

Don’t Miss: Climb the hill to the Broadway Tower, an 18th century tower within a 200-acre estate of parkland offering expansive views across the valley; enjoy afternoon tea at the Tower Barn CafĂ© afterward. The trail also passes by , home to some 30 species of endangered butterflies, and , a historic garden filled with seasonal flowers and a lavish mix of Classical, Gothic, and other architecture.

Megan Michelson is an șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű contributing editor and avid traveler who once lived in England for a year and went on a lot of long rambles through the countryside. She recently wrote about trips that may help you live longer and her favorite new backcountry hut in Colorado.

Megan Michelson author
The author, Megan Michelson, out for a walkÌę (Photo: Megan Michelson Collection)

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How to Plan Your “Sick” Powder Days Two Weeks in Advance /adventure-travel/advice/snow-weather-predictions/ Mon, 23 Dec 2024 10:45:01 +0000 /?p=2692123 How to Plan Your “Sick” Powder Days Two Weeks in Advance

A NOAA ocean buoy and a decades-old forecasting service have hooked powder hounds with surprisingly accurate storm intelligence

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How to Plan Your “Sick” Powder Days Two Weeks in Advance

Nothing ruins a ski vacation faster than no snow, and scoring a powder day can feel like winning the lottery in these climate-challenged times. While the global forecaster AccuWeather makes projections up to 90 days out, specific, precise daily reports cannot be made more than ten days in advance, according to a published in theÌęJournal of the Atmospheric Sciences. Given the chaotic nature of the atmosphere, two weeks out is probably the farthest accurate estimate we can hope for in the future.

So where does that leave travelers who want to plan ahead? Is there more we can do than just book a ski vacation to a popular winter destinationÌęand hope for the best? Yes! Diehard skiers and snowboarders and skiers—and I count myself in that group—have discovered some tricks to line up trips with epic conditions.

The Surprising Accuracy of The Powder Buoy

A floating yellow buoy with what appear to be solar panels atop a short metal construction floats in the ocean.
Located amid the Pacific Ocean, this NOAA buoy is used by a growing group of skiers to determine when powder will hit Utah’s Wasatch Range. (Photo: NOAA)

In the early aughts, Mike Ruzek, a financial planner and avid skier based in Park City, Utah, had a client clue him in to thousands of miles west in the Pacific Ocean that surfersÌęwere using as an alternative to wave-forecast sites like , to estimate how bigÌęswell would get by the time it hit the Hawaiian Islands. The client, who split his time between Maui and Park City, believed the buoy’s movements correlated to storm cycles in Utah’s Wasatch Range.

Curious, Ruzek did some research and discovered that when the buoy went from floating on swells of around 5 to 15 feet—the point which followers described it as “popping”—a storm would usually hit the Wasatch 12 to 14 days later.

Ruzek doesn’t have a background in meteorology, but he did know that low-pressure systems tend to produce the most snow in winter. “When a low-pressure system rolls in [across the Pacific], it forces the water upward, making the buoy pop,” he posited. “About two weeks after a spike in the buoy’s wave height, Utah gets a dump of snow.”

Initially, Ruzek started testing the buoy to schedule “sick” ski days from work, and he found it was surprisingly accurate. In 2013, he set up a Facebook page called Ìęto share the forecasts, and an followed that now boasts 45,000-plus followers.

A NOAA spokesperson said the organization is unaware of a specific buoy measurement correlating with this weather phenomenon so far from the buoy’s location. But Ruzek is not wrong. I spoke with Steven Businger, a University of Hawaii professor of meteorology, who confirmed that the slow motion of huge planetary waves in the jet stream often results in fairly long, persistent weather patterns that can effectively be determined for a location over ten days or more.

Last year the buoy was 80 percent spot-on when it came to pow predictions in Utah, saidÌęRuzek, and he’s heard from skiers who use its reports to predict snow 12 to 14 days out in Colorado and Wyoming. “One mountain town in ColoradoÌęhas a coffee shop that writes our reports on a chalkboard,” he said proudly. Though he could charge for the readings, Ruzek loves the authenticity of keeping it free. “There’s enough monetization in the ski world,” he said.

Trusted Intel from Powderchasers

 

Steve Conney also shares free winter-weather intelÌęas a side hustle called . The New York native started forecasting snowfall at U.S. ski resortsÌęfor a small email list of friends more than two decades ago, when there was no internet offering such a service. “I had phone numbers for the snowplow drivers and the people who worked at Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado,” he toldÌęme. “I’d call the employees at Baked in Telluride, because I knew they were up at 5 A.M. and could report on the snow.”

TodayÌęPowderchasers has over 107,000 followers on Instagram, and its detailed forecasts are still free, thanks to sponsors like Ikon Pass. The posts are fun and full of stoke: “EPIC ALERT: Snow Returns for South America. 3+ Feet Predicted” read the August 2 headline. “Final parade of moisture is overspreading the west. The firehouse is wide open over Oregon and moves east into Idaho and northern Wyoming where it is snowing,” read a December 16 post, while itsÌęrecently offered intel on projected conditions through the end of the month, suggestions on where to head based on its forecasts, feedback from Powderchasers staff about places they were already skiing, and estimated snow accumulation for various regions of the U.S. and Canada.

Conney now has a small weather-obsessed team to help him. “We read the same models as everyone else, but we understand what skiers and snowboarders want,” he said. “The deepest snow is not always your best chase. We look at winds, potential closures, snow density, and other factors.”

If you’d prefer more in-depth, personalized forecasts and custom trip planning, the company has what are called concierge packages that range from $149 for one trip to $699 for forecasts for eight trips. “This is for the fanatics who can only get out on the slopes once or twice a year for that big ski trip,” he said.

A group of skiers in France laughing during a heavy snowfall on the slopes.
The author, bottom right in green, and a group of friends revel in the makings of a grand powder day. (Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Jen Murphy splits her time between Colorado and Maui and now relies on The Powder Buoy to track swell and snow. SheÌęrecently wrote about her love of solo travel, and about how compression socks are the one piece of clothing travelers need for a long flight.Ìę

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I’ve Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit. /adventure-travel/advice/solo-travel/ Sun, 15 Dec 2024 10:00:41 +0000 /?p=2691667 I’ve Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit.

More people are catching onto the freedom and rewards of taking trips alone. Here’s what I've learned in two decades of wandering on my own.

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I’ve Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit.

In traveling, I’ve always chosen to go it alone rather than not go at all. Over the years, friends have called me fearless. Don’t you get scared? they ask. Very rarely. Lonely? Honestly, never, even before the days of social media. And isn’t it more expensive to travel by yourself than with others? Traditionally, yes. Solo travelers often got slapped with single-supplement, or premium, hotel and tour fees, but since the pandemic, companies have started courting solo travelers. Priceline even held its first-ever .

, safety, loneliness, and expense are the three biggest reasons people hate to travel solo. But I’ve been adventuring on my own for more than two decades, and I find it freeing. I can travel at my own pace and on my own budget. I can easily score a table for one—even at top restaurants that often require bookings weeks in advance. And I connect more with locals.

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More people are catching on to the appeal of solo travel, however, especially Gen Zers and Millennials. Google searches for solo travel have increased 223 percent over the past decade, and according to a , 50 percent of Americans planned to travel alone in 2024. And while women have led the indie trip trend in recent years, men are joining the ranks. A from the travel booking site Omio found that 30 percent of men, compared to 23 percent of women, have solo journeys planned for 2025.

Jen Murphy on a solo-travel trip in the Omo Valley in Ethiopia
On a weeklong trip, the author camped alongside the people of the Omo River Valley, in Ethiopia, and learned their history, culture, and the effects of drought. (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

If you’ve hesitated to give solo travel a go, let me alleviate your concerns and suggest some of my favorite places for awesome adventuring on your own.

Always Consider Safety First

Certain destinations lend themselves to solo travel more than others. Certainly, safety is top of mind.

Cliffs of Moher, coast of Ireland
The famous Cliffs of Moher line the coast in County Clare, Ireland, which is considered one of the safest countries in the world to visit. The 220-foot Branaunmore sea stack was once part of the cliffs, which rise to nearly 800 feet. (Photo: Ted Benge)

I scan the U.S. State Department’s and avoid countries of conflict. I also browse the (GPI), an annual ranking of nations based on factors like the absence of violence or fear of violence, a nation’s level of harmony or discord, and its degree of militarization. Coming into 2025, Iceland, Ireland, and Austria are the safest three countries in the world, according to the overall GPI score.

, which also researches and ranks the safest places to visit each year, is another great resource. Rankings are based on an average of “all measures from [BHTP’s] State of Travel Insurance research,” and factor in other indices including the Global Peace Index and information from sources like , a destination database that scores living conditions. Berkshire Hathaway puts Iceland, Australia, and Canada as top three for safety, with Ireland close behind.

graphic showing safest countries
Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection ranks the safest places to visit each year. (Illustration: Tim Schamber)

In addition to its list, Berkshire Hathaway provides write-ups that touch on smart considerations to take into account in each of the high-ranking nations, from dangerous wildlife like box jellyfish in Australia to driving on the left-hand side of the road in Ireland to expensive emergency-evacuation costs in remote destinations of northern Norway.

My 6 Favorite Solo-Travel Destinations

Some of my picks are at the top of the Berkshire Hathaway and Global Peace Index lists, but I cast a wider lens to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations. In particular, such places have satisfied my craving for big doses of nature and adventure.

Portugal

the author traveling alone and surfing in Portugal with two friends she met on her trip
The author with friends she met at Noah Surf House in Portugal, which she has visited solo four timesÌę(Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

The GPI ranked Portugal the seventh-safest country in the world in 2024. It’s also a bargain compared to most Western European countries (a draft of craft beer cost me $3 in Lisbon compared to $8 in Paris), and the effortlessly connects the northern and southern regions.

I’ve visited this country solo four times and have always found the locals extremely hospitable. On my first trip, I checked out the beach town of Sagres in the southern region of Algarve and met two couples from Lisbon who offered to drive me back to the city. One of the women took off work the next day to be my tour guide, and that evening she and her husband threw a dinner party for me at their home.

I love making solo surf trips up and down Portugal’s coast. Hotels like (from $200) in Santa Cruz and (from $73), just north in the town of Peniche, have a clubhouse vibe and offer activities and events—like rooftop music sessions—that make it easy to meet new friends. Both places can arrange board rentals, lessons, and English-speaking guides.

If you, too, fall hard for the country, Portugal’s recently introduced makes it easy to pursue residency while working remotely.

Costa Rica

Pura vida vibes have always made me feel welcome in Costa Rica. The State Department’s Level 2 advisory recommends that trip-goers use increased caution here, due to petty crime risks and natural hazards like earthquakes (which are common-ish here, with events of magnitude 7 about every decade). For 2025, Berkshire Hathaway Costa Rica the sixth-safest place in the world for female, BIPOC, and LGBTQIA+ travelers.

Surf towns such as Nosara and Santa Teresa along the Pacific Coast attract a lot of Americans and have small expat communities. , a hotel brand catering to digital nomads with coworking spaces as well as rooms, has eight outposts in Costa Rica, including in Nosara, Santa Teresa, and Monteverde (shared dorms from $24). These properties host music events and arrange local experiences for guests.

On the Caribbean Coast, I’m a big fan of the boutique hotel (from $365), which is part of the sustainability-focused Cayuga Collection. The hotel works with local guides and outfitters to arrange snorkeling excursions and hiking day trips in Cahuita National Park, including for solo guests. The place also offers free bike use, which I love for exploring the nearby town on my own.

CanadaÌę

Jen Murphy prepares for a polar plunge in British Columbia
The author gamely readies for a polar plunge in Whistler, British Columbia, Canada (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Canadians have a reputation for being incredibly friendly, and that as well as proximity to the U.S. and our shared language are bonuses. highlighted the country’s low crime rate and noted that wildlife like bears and moose posed some of the biggest dangers to visitors.

Vancouver and Montreal, great jumping-off points for the wilderness, ranked two and three, respectively, on a that see the most solo-travel searches on the travel site Kayak and the most solo-dining reservations on OpenTable.

Canada has 37 national parks and 11 national park reserves, as well as two beautiful coasts. I’ve made friends while soaking in the swimming-pool-sized hot tub at (from $250) in Alberta’s Banff National Park. I’ve also plotted solo snowboard trips to , British Columbia, to coincide with the Natural Selection Tour freestyle competition, knowing I’d meet like-minded travelers.

If you’re wary of wandering the wilderness alone, sign up for a guided trek with a local outfitter. I like the .

Another low-stress option is crisscrossing the country via rail. The Rocky Mountaineer’s from Vancouver to Banff takes just two days and is staffed with storytellers who can shed light on indigenous sites and wildlife. It offers single-berth accommodations from $1,752.

Australia

Jen Murphy in Wineglass Bay, Tasmania, Australia
The author above Wineglass Bay, Tasmania, Australia, during a long walk with a local guide (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Australia has long been a magnet for backpackers. I spent nearly a year in my twenties backpacking mostly solo around the country’s east coast, and the biggest dangers were crocodiles, snakes, and jellyfish. Despite its resident poisonous critters, Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection scored AustraliaÌę the second-safest place in the world to travel for 2025.

Affordable and clean hostels, like (from $140) in Queensland’s Daintree Rainforest, abound and are filled with other solo travelers. is a beach-club-vibe hostel brand with Queensland locations in Noosa, Cairns, and Airlie Beach (from $32 for a spot in a mixed dorm).

Australia is a fantastic destination for hiking. is a collection of 13 treks that you can do yourself or with a guide. I spent four days traversing the wildlife-filled in Tasmania, opting for a guide via the local outfitter the because I wanted to learn more about the flora, fauna, and culture on the island (from $1,900, all-inclusive). The first two nights we stayed in secluded, simple bush camps near the beach ($7), and the final night we were pampered in the recently renovated historic-home-turned-hotel, Bernacchi House.

If you’re sticking to the mainland, the in the state of Victoria is a very doable 27 miles over four days along the Great Ocean Road, with campsites en route. The walk is suitable for hikers of any experience and takes in the shipwreck-dotted coastline, wild beaches, and Great Otway and Port Campbell National Parks.

Austria

Jen Murphy ski touring in St. Anton, Austria
An off-piste adventure in St. Anton, Austria (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Austria is a fantastic option for solo alpine adventures. The country is ranked third on the Global Peace Index and fifth worldwide in terms of safety by the . Most locals speak English, and a great public transportation network makes it easy to travel car-free. If you’re deciding between alpine destinations, consider that the cost of living in Switzerland is higher than in Austria, and that affects tourism; in general, expect lodging and meals in Austria to cost half of what you’d pay in Switzerland.

The runs a network of more than 170 huts, where it’s easy to engage with other hikers. Most mountain resorts, such as or or have guided hiking, biking, and paddling tours that allow you to mingle with others. And many villages offer special . I met some friends on a solo trip to the , held each September.

Bhutan

Jen Murphy, author, in Bhutan on a hike with her guide
The author with one of her guides in the kingdom of Bhutan, a mecca for trekking and biking and one of the most soulful places she has ever been (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Solo travel, for me, has been the perfect way to do some soul searching when I’m making big decisions or going through a transition. And one of the most soulful places I’ve ever visited is the Kingdom of Bhutan. It is a place of beauty and spirituality, and travelers here are required to have a guide, which is an exceptional way to become familiar with the culture.

Six years ago, I went on assignment on a solo ten-day guided trip of this Southeast Asia nation and learned so much, including the proper way to throw a dart (this is a traditional sport in Bhutan) and about dating habits here (yes, there’s Tinder in Bhutan). I still keep in touch with my guide, who was a woman, on WhatsApp.

Bhutan is ranked 21 on the Global Peace Index, and it’s a mecca for hiking and mountain biking—the king is an avid mountain biker, and my guide and I spotted him one day on the trail. While getting there from the U.S. isn’t cheap, nor are costs within the country, visits are slightly more affordable since the kingdom halved its daily tourist fee from $200 to $100 last year.

Phil Bowen of should be your go-to logistician to find a guide, driver, and accommodations, which can range from homestays to splurge-worthy hotels. (from $550, half-board, meaning room, breakfast, and one other meal) is one of the most memorable places I’ve stayed in throughout my global travels.

5 Tips for Solo Travelers, From a Pro

lone hiker Lake Ediza, the Sierra
Rita Keil quietly contemplates the view at Lake Ediza, near Mammoth Lakes, California. (Photo: Jake Stern)

Here are some tips and tricks for making the most of a solo trip.Ìę

Share Your Plans

I always email my mom my rough itinerary. It includes the contact information for any hotels I’ve already booked or the names of campsites where I plan to stay. I also regularly check in with her or a good friend via What’s App or email to let them know I’ve reached a destination safely and when I’m moving on to my next stop.

Eat at the Restaurant’s Bar

I absolutely love dining alone at the bar. It’s usually easy to score a single seat, and before long I’m chatting with some fascinating local characters. Bartenders are often fantastic sources of local intel and can direct you to good restaurants and the best hiking and mountain-biking trails. Finally, happy-hour specials are a great way to save a few bucks.

Watch and Post on Message Boards

If you’re craving companionship, you might post on social-media channels like Facebook and Instagram—you never know who in your circles, or your friends’ circles, is headed to the same place as you—or use the Friends setting on apps like Bumble. Many hotels and hostels, and often the local grocery store, still have bulletin boards with postings for local activities, like free yoga sessions or group hikes.

Pack Meds

Being alone isn’t so great when you fall ill in a far-flung place. In many countries it’s manageable: you can walk into a pharmacy, explain your symptoms, and get what you need. But I recently suffered through a debilitating urinary-tract infection in Morocco, and now I never travel without the broad-spectrum antibiotic I needed. I convinced my doctor to prescribe one in case I get that sick on the road again.

Don’t Second-Guess Yourself

Trust your gut. If something feels unsafe, it probably is. The very few times I’ve gotten food poisoning have been when actions went against my instinct. Don’t be afraid to be impolite. Once, in Varanasi, India, an elderly woman offered me a glass of sketchy looking lassi. I felt rude saying no, and all it took was one sip to give me Delhi Belly. I knew better.

You should also follow your intuition. When I meet strangers and feel genuine good vibes, I will accept an invitation to share a ride or join for a meal in someone’s home. These chance encounters have rewarded me with some wonderful friends and experiences over the years.

The author stops her bike ride in Romania to pose in front of a house where a muster of storks has constructed a large nest atop a building.
The author on a bike ride in RomaniaÌę(Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Jen Murphy is °żłÜłÙČőŸ±»ć±đ’s online travel-advice columnist. She has had some of her most memorable adventures while traveling solo, from dancing with a local tribe in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia to joining members of the Indian army on a run in Delhi. Her journal and a good book have always served as great companions. She has also recently written an ultimate guide to winter fun in a choice selection of mountain towns in Colorado, a guide for anyone new to adventure travel in Costa Rica, and the funniest things travelers ask their adventure guides. There are doozies.

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The 13 Best Airports in the World with Outdoor Lounges, Parks, and Pools—Yes, Pools /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-airports-world/ Wed, 04 Dec 2024 11:00:35 +0000 /?p=2690642 The 13 Best Airports in the World with Outdoor Lounges, Parks, and Pools—Yes, Pools

We love to travel, but most airports suck. Here are ones that don't.

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The 13 Best Airports in the World with Outdoor Lounges, Parks, and Pools—Yes, Pools

If you’re a regular traveler like me, you already know this: most airports are awful. You’re constantly rushing through a crowded terminal, competing with a harried mess of humanity, only to then cram yourself into a narrow seat for a few hours until you get to your next terminal purgatory—meanwhile, dragging your luggage the whole way. Germs waft through the air. Couples argue about holding each other up in the TSA line. As I write this, I’m sitting in the F concourse at Minneapolis Saint-Paul listening to a kid whine at NASCAR-engine levels about not getting soft serve ice cream and his Chick-fil-A nuggets.

Airports are the worst.

Except
not all of them. Around the world, there are a growing number of destinations that are making their airports, well, welcoming. A shocking idea, I know. I’ve been to a handful of these miraculous creations (compared to the usual dreadfulness)—international airports like Vancouver, Zurich, and Munich. They’re clean, organized, and, best of all, have a place to get some fresh air before your next long-haul flight. With this new wave of amenities (and your travel sanity) in mind, here are the best airports in the world, from Asia and the Middle East to right here in North America, that offer incredible open-air areas to soothe your traveling stress.

Destinations Newsletter

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Singapore Changi Airport, Singapore (SIN)

Here’s what’s known as “The Jewel” at Changi Airport—a glass circular building with 280 restaurants and stores and a multi-story circular indoor waterfall surrounded by terraced gardens. (Photo: Carola Frentzen/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Indoor Climbing Area

Changi Airport is a perennial winner of the , thanks to a seemingly never-ending list of Disneyland-like attractions, including a onsite, a on the roof of Terminal 1, and the , at seven stories high. There’s even an indoor forest, called , with walking paths and a glass walkway that rises 23 meters above the terminal floor, allowing you to trek amongst the treetops. (To see how impressive the full list of attractions is, you can scroll through it .)

For nature lovers, though, the true gem is Changi’s series of gardens, including Cactus Garden, Sunflower Garden, Enchanted Garden, Petal Garden, and Butterfly Garden. Together, they offer the most complete botanical adventure you’ll get at any airport on earth. And even though some of the gardens are indoors, it’s hard to tell.

The , for example, is set in a large conservatory designed as a tropical forest, with an 18-foot high grotto waterfall. It’s home to over 1,000 butterflies from as many as 40 species and, on your way to your gate, you can stop by and stand amidst the flora as the butterflies flutter around you. For a splash of yellow, the is worth a quick stop if you have some time to kill in terminal 2, and the , also in Terminal 2, is designed to offer Shangri-La-like atmosphere, with the sounds of a forest pumped into is a large room dominated by four giant glass bouquet sculptures that are filled with a variety of flowers and ferns.

Perhaps most Zen of all, though, is the on the roof of Terminal 1, which features over 100 species of arid plants from Asia, Africa, and the Americas—everything from prickly pear cactus to giant ponytail palm trees. It also has a bar and shaded tables, so it may just be the best place to grab a local while you hope for another hour delay on your flight out.

Denver International Airport, Colorado (DEN)

Denver International Airport’s best greenery comes before you enter the terminal, and it’s well worth an early arrival to enjoy. (Photo: Brad McGinley Photography/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Ice-Skating Rink

This pick comes with a minor asterisk: the primary outdoor area is before you go through security, so you’ll need to enjoy the al fresco offerings in advance of your flight, but the options are worth the early arrival. The space is called the , and it’s a large synthetic turf located between the Jeppesen Terminal and the Westin Hotel, underneath the airport’s famous faux mountain peaks.

In summer, the turf is set up with cornhole games and wooden benches for lounging, and there’s often live music or other events throughout the season (all of which are free to the public). In the winter months, typically from Thanksgiving to New Year’s, the area features an open-air ice rink with free loaner skates.

Of course, don’t fret if you’re running on time and need to get through the TSA line: inside the airport there are three outdoor lounges with seating and fire pits, at Concourse A-West near gate A15; on Concourse B-West at gate B7; and at gate C67 on Concourse C-East.

Zurich Airport, Switzerland (ZRH)

A Swiss International Air Lines Airbus A340 takes off from Zurich international airport
A Swiss International Air Lines Airbus A340 takes off from Zurich international airport. (Photo: EThamPhoto/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Outdoor Walking Paths

If you find yourself craving one last view of the Alps before your flight home, , the primary hub for Swiss International Airlines, has an executive lounge with an outdoor terrace that has impressive views of the mountains beyond. The at the Midfield Terminal is open to all travelers for a fee (roughly $50) and, in addition to the outdoor terrace views, you get access to all of the lounge’s food and drink options, and other amenities.

But the real reason Zurich Airport is on this list is because of its adjacent , a 20-acre park filled with forested walking paths and a modest hill with good views from up top. It’s a great place to unwind during a long layover or if you get caught waiting for a delayed flight. You’ll need to leave the terminal to access it, but the short walk and fresh air are worth it. During much of the week, there are park rangers who will take you on a , explaining the flora and fauna and how it was designed for maximum relaxation (check the rangers’ in advance). There’s even a free cable car to whisk you into the park in the most Swiss way possible.

From the arrivals area, walk across the parking area to the Circle, the large building adjacent to the terminal that hosts restaurants, hotels, and stores. From there you can take the cable car into Der Park.

Vancouver International Airport, Canada (YVR)

The green wall of living plants at the Vancouver International Airport public skytrain station is a refreshing example of sustainable architecture. (Photo: Pamela Joe McFarlane/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Digital Light Show

For most passengers headed through , their first introduction (or last farewell) to British Columbia is YVR’s Chester Johnson Park, located directly adjacent to (and underneath) the Canada Line train station. The park is designed to feel like an , with rock-lined paths, native trees, driftwood benches, and a large wooden sculpture—the Musqueam Welcome Figure—curving throughout its length. It’s also home to the Green Wall, a 17-meter-high vegetated art installation made up of, at last count, 27,391 individual plants.

As for inside the airport itself, there’s a new 47-foot-high open-air atrium in the international terminal, with three full-grown hemlock trees in the center. Until recently, the glassed-in atrium was only visible to passengers as they commuted past, like looking into a giant terrarium, but you can now open a door and walk out into the atrium for a breath of fresh air. At night, the trees and rock landscape are lit up by digital light projections—faux waves crashing over the rocks, for example—and a corresponding soundscape. The whole experience is designed to showcase the sights and sounds of B.C., and it does just that and more. It may be the most successful attempt of any airport in the world to bring a little bit of the region’s natural landscape into the airport itself.

Incheon International Airport, South Korea (ICN)

Indoor Garden at Incheon International Airport
The indoor gardens at Incheon International Airport make you feel like you’re not stuck in an airport, but rather outdoors where you belong. (Photo: Ashley Cooper/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Indoor Gardens

Among the many attractions for passengers flying into or through South Korea’s —the country’s main international gateway and one of the busiest airports in the world—is a sprawling, in Terminal 2.

The green features are spread throughout much of the large space, with a mix of flowers, trees, ferns, and bamboo growing from planters situated throughout—in the floors, dividing walls, large garden spaces, and above kiosks’ ceilings, with strands hanging down. Smaller water, rock, cactus, and pine gardens are strategically located across the airport campus, too. Technically, none of these areas are outdoors, but the enormous roof above the main area, with translucent panels in the center, makes it feels as such, which is why we’re including it on this list.

We’re also including Incheon because of the airport’s ongoing plans to add even more green spaces that utilize a variety of plants to create a living, breathing indoor space with healthier air for all visitors. As part of its , the airport also plans to add a terrace with an outdoor garden, so passengers can decompress before their (likely long) overseas flight.

Long Beach Airport, California (LGB)

Passengers walk through a garden area between terminals at Long Beach Airport
Passengers walk through the garden area between terminals at Long Beach Airport. (Photo: MediaNews Group/Orange County Register/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Palm Treed Courtyard

, bills itself as “America’s coolest airport,” and while that moniker is a bit of a stretch, it does have an impressive courtyard with a series of tall palm trees and a drought-tolerant garden. The airport, one of the five major commercial airfields serving the greater Los Angeles metroplex, is the second smallest, with just 11 gates. In such a tiny airport, the 4,200-square-foot courtyard is definitely a unique amenity, one that punches well above its weight.

The courtyard is also ringed by dining options from local establishments, so it’s an excellent place to grab a bite to eat while you wait for your flight out. For those heading to this side of L.A. or points south along the coastline, LGB is definitely a good choice over LAX (see below).

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX)

Jet Arriving at Los Angeles International Airport
Los Angeles International airport may be one of the busiest in the world, but it’s getting an epic makeover for the 2028 Olympics, including the installation of several lounges worth checking out. (Photo: Bill Ross/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Private Lounges

For anyone who has traveled through recently, you know it’s a mess, thanks to a $30 billion overhaul one of the world’s busiest airports is getting ahead of the , in L.A. By the time construction is done, it will almost be a brand new airport, with new terminals, an elevated train, and an on-site rental-car facility to help eliminate the shuttles current clogging up the passenger pickup/drop-off areas. Already some of the upgrades are beginning to appear, including a series of new lounges with outdoor terraces.

The in Tom Bradley International Terminal (Terminal B) has a large outdoor deck with fire pits, trees, running water, and great views of the Hollywood Hills in the distance ($75 for standard access). The United Club in Terminal 7 is much smaller—more a balcony than a lounge—but it’s spacious enough to get some fresh air and does have good views of the tarmac ($59 for a single-entry pass).

The new , which is open to Delta customers traveling with a Delta One ticket, is the company’s premium lounge, with table service at every seat, a sushi bar, and eight relaxation pods. It also has a large private Sky Deck on the roof, with a landscaped terrace full of chairs, sofas, and enough plants to keep it feeling like a lounge, rather than an extension of the tarmac.

LAX will remain a very urban airport, but with a few spots to sneak in some last-minute SoCal sun, these lounges are worth it, if you can afford them.

Hamad International Airport, Qatar (DOH)

You can stroll through the massive glass dome along the elevated walkway above the indoor garden at the orchard in Hamad International Airport. (Photo: Hasan Zaidi/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Indoor Tropical Garden

Yes, this is another entry highlighting a space that is not, technically, outdoors, and yet we promise that visiting ’s “The Orchard” will feel more like being in nature than just about any of the other places on this list.

It’s a massive, 64,000-square-foot set beneath a soaring, translucent roof shaped like the inside of a shell. More than were sourced from around the world to create the indoor garden, and at its center is a “water feature” that is best described as a spiraling waterfall emerging from a slanted halo. At points the faux forest is so lush that you almost forget that you’re surrounded by roughly five dozen shops, lounges, and restaurants, with hundreds of rushing bodies scrambling to catch their flights. It’s almost worth a trip to Doha just to see it—or at least a long layover.

Munich International Airport, Germany (MUC)

Nothing like a cold bevy before a long flight at the biergarten in Munich International Airport. (Photo: Hanoisoft/Getty)

✈ Don’t Miss: The Next-Door Surf Park

This wouldn’t be Bavaria without beer, so it’s fitting that not only does have a beer garden onsite, it’s also an open-air one, with a covered glass roof. Called the, it’s the first brewery in an airport on earth. It has an indoor tavern for drinking, but the patio offers both fresh air, protection from the occasional rain shower, and food and beers, like the Fliegerquell Lager and the Kumulous Wheat.

Munich Airport also has a 900-square-meter , with seating and binoculars to take in the alpine views on clear days. Across from Terminal 1 is , an extensive outdoor area with grass lawns and trails, a playground area, interactive exhibits, benches for sitting, and a 90-foot-high hill overlooking the area. It’s an excellent place to stretch the legs before a long flight or burn off some of the kids’ energy before boarding.

Oh, and just in case you have half a day to kill, there’s a brand-new surf park, , just around the corner from the airport. It’s Germany’s first wave pool and the largest in Europe, at over 215,000 square feet, capable of churning out waves .Ìę Getting there is a cinch: it’s just a five-mute car ride away, literally in the shadow of landing flights.

Bonus Picks: Other Noteworthy Outdoor Areas in North American AirportsÌę

While these airports do have notable outdoor areas, they really can’t compare with our picks for the best airports in the world featured above. That said, they’re still worth calling out on honorable mentions—especially for domestic travelers—for these specific reasons.

✈ Austin-Bergstrom International Airport, Texas (AUS)

The accessible to Sapphire Reserve cardmembers, has a large outdoor terrace with seating overlooking the tarmac and Hill Country beyond. The Delta Sky Club, directly adjacent to the Sapphire Lounge, also has outdoor seating, and more outdoor areas are in the works as part of the airport’s multi-billion-dollar expansion.

✈ San Francisco International Airport, California (SFO)

For ticketed passengers, there’s a free in the international terminal with seating and excellent views of the airfield and beyond. Three bronze sculptures by local artist Woody Othello decorate the space, at the end of Boarding Area G. For plane-watching, there’s also the , located atop Terminal 2. It’s a good, free place for the public to come (no ticket necessary) to see some of the largest aircraft serving SFO. The SkyTerrace is open Friday through Monday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

✈ Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, Georgia (ATL)

The in Concourse F has an outdoor deck for its club members, with seating for roughly 40 guests and a free bar. As with all of Delta’s clubs, there’s free food and drinks, as well as WiFi.

✈ John F. Kennedy International Airport, New York (JFK)

For travels heading through JetBlue’s Terminal, there’s a roughly 4,000-square-foot post-security rooftop lounge with green spaces, seating, a children’s play area, and even a dog-walk area. The rooftop lounge also offers passengers views of the Manhattan skyline and of the iconic TWA terminal, which is now the . The , as it’s called, is open daily from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. and the entrance is across from Gate 28.

Ryan Krogh in New York City
The author on a recent trip to New York City (Photo: Ryan Krogh)

Ryan Krogh is a freelance writer and editor based in Austin, Texas. He mostly covers the subjects of travel and the outdoors, and is always looking for a way to get some fresh air in airports worldwide.ÌęÌę

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Skiing with a Soldier Transformed My Views on Military Service /outdoor-adventure/snow-sports/skiing-with-a-soldier/ Mon, 11 Nov 2024 20:18:15 +0000 /?p=2688289 Skiing with a Soldier Transformed My Views on Military Service

A chance encounter while skiing Mount Mackenzie challenges stereotypes and inspires heartfelt gratitude

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Skiing with a Soldier Transformed My Views on Military Service

The peak of Mount Mackenzie was slammed that morning. A pane of blue sky lit up April powder all around as a conciliatory parting gift from a long, dry winter. A guy with a 360 GoPro was tee-ing up the east face. There was a group of teenaged German exchange students, one with skis clumsily hung in an X rather than an A-frame on his pack. I was there with my buddy Mark, a pair of middle-aged men vying for a piece of the caked mountainside that had framed our younger years. And amongst a gaggle of two or three others, there was one lone snowboarder in military green pants, a camo fleece, and a camo jersey pulled over it for good measure.

“Where are you guys going?” the guy in green asked me, his impressive duster of a mustache dancing over his lip.

“Over to Spilled Milk,” I answered.

“I’m going to follow,” he announced.

It was a self-invitation I would normally protest. But something about his nature felt unimposing, and there was a highway of people hiking up— everyone was coming if we didn’t go now. “OK,” I said, and we shoved off while the peak piled up like an escalator was letting off.

The traverse to Spilled Milk, a sidecountry run, is exposed and intimidating, but the guy in green gripped the ridgetop sun crust unfazed and held strong. When we reached the north-facing zone we sought, it rolled over and out of sight, as always. I had assumed he knew the run, but he told me he didn’t. There was a time when I would have said something rude and left him in my tracks. But if middle age has taught me anything, it’s that being a dick has gotten me nowhere.

“Well, Mark’s going into a cliffy area,” I offered, “and I’m going to take the most straightforward line. So if you want to get rowdy follow Mark’s track, if you want to keep it simple follow mine.”

“I’ll follow you,” he replied.

“Alright, you’ll see me out the bottom once I’m done.”

“OK, I’ll be up here until then.”

Mark went first, nailing his line, then I dropped in, poking through a small choke to emerge on a wide-open apron that was all for me. It was deliriously good. I fist-bumped Mark at the bottom and watched my new green friend trace his own smooth run down the same heavenly slope. He slid up next to us, out of breath and grinning.

“How was it?” I asked,

“Great!” he exclaimed.

We bumped fists, too, and he told me his name was Nick. I paused a moment before asking
 “Are you in the army?”

“Yeah,” he answered softly as he unbuckled his board.

Most Canadians don’t have much interaction with our military. It’s tiny, with under 100,000 troops—including reservists—for a country of 39 million. Compare that to the 2.8 million Americans serving in the United States Armed Forces. With the exception of going into Afghanistan after 9/11, the Canadian military has almost exclusively been a peacekeeping force for the last half-century, lending its minor might to the United Nations and other allies while tending to things like natural disasters at home.

I have never had much reverence for the military. Those from my high school who joined tended to be the same types of hockey jocks who tormented me in gym class. There was a willingness to violence and an attraction to authority in these people that always befuddled me. That resentment only entrenched deeper in college when I became decidedly anti-war and thus anti-soldier. We were well past the age of conscription, after all.

In Canada, at least where I grew up, there wasn’t such a big disparity between the rich and the poor. I hadn’t ever known anyone who enlisted because it was their best job option, but I did know some guys who signed up to pay for university.

I assumed Nick was stationed in Rogers Pass, 45 minutes west, where the army does avalanche control with Howitzer cannons to keep the Trans-Canada Highway safe (these guys call themselves “snow punchers”). But Nick is in the infantry, he told me. He is stationed in Edmonton, Alberta, about seven hours north. He was simply snowboarding in Revelstoke on some time off. It’s where the rest of the 20-somethings were, I guess, though he didn’t quite mesh with them.

He said he specialized in mountain operations. So had my grandfather. Two generations ago, he learned to ski in Norway as part of his training before eventually landing on Juneau beach for D-Day in a Sherman tank. I visited that site when I turned 30, about the same time I started to understand the world was more complicated than my ardent idealism. The Canadian flag is proudly hung outside many seaside French homes, and it has been waving there since 1945. I walked the Canadian graveyard to learn most were between the ages of 18 and 22 when they died. Then, when I shifted to the American graveyard, I saw tombstones consume the horizon with no visible end. Later that day, a French server wearing a scarf emblazoned with the stars and stripes at a restaurant on Omaha Beach asked me, “Are you American?”

“Canadian,” I said.

“Oh, well thank you too,” he answered.

Back in the free hills of Revelstoke, a universe away from any past or present conflict, Mark invited Nick to join us for another lap. I interrupted the carefree air to ask Nick if he’d been deployed. Yes, he said. He had spent a lot of time in Europe, training Ukrainians.Ìę

“Do you keep in touch with any of them?” I further inquired.

“Yeah, I try. But a lot of them die,” he said. “They’re running out of people over there, most of them are either dead or injured. All this stuff I’m wearing, they gave me.”

The landscape seemed to morph around me just then. I felt momentarily stuck in an inverse world. It was as if being confronted by the physical incarnation of the disembodied news—of the chaos at the bloody fringes of Western life, held back by some invisible force so that I could have a very different relationship with the mountains. For his part, Nick just stood there, still unfazed, ready to squeeze in one more run.

“Thank you for your service,” I said. It was the first time in my life I’d ever used the phrase.

Related:

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Northern Lights Hunting with This Indigenous Tracker Was the Most Moving șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű of My Life /adventure-travel/essays/northern-lights-canada-joe-buffalo-child/ Sun, 03 Nov 2024 11:30:48 +0000 /?p=2687082 Northern Lights Hunting with This Indigenous Tracker Was the Most Moving șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű of My Life

Joe Buffalo Child has a deep connection to the auroras, which his people, the Dene, believe carry messages from their ancestors. We headed into the boreal forest seeking light.

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Northern Lights Hunting with This Indigenous Tracker Was the Most Moving șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű of My Life

Joe Buffalo Child grew up beneath the northern lights, but one starry winter night in particular remains etched in his memory. He was six years old and camping with his grandparents to monitor the family trapline, a 50-mile stretch of snares set for rabbits and muskrats in the snowy boreal forest outside Yellowknife, the capital of Canada’s Northwest Territories. Slipping out of the cozy tent, his breath fogging as he gazed skyward, it wasn’t long before Buffalo Child found what he was seeking: “It was stars, stars, stars, then—boom! The aurora’s there,” he told me, his eyes sparkling at the flashback.

On trapline trips like these, learned about the many ways nature was tied to the traditions of his people, the , who have inhabited central and northwest Canada for over 30,000 years. By day, his grandfather took him hunting or fishing—outings that came with important lessons, like how to predict an approaching storm by studying the movement of the clouds or the height of a seagull’s flight. Come dusk, bathed in the gas lamp’s honey glow, his grandmother shared spiritual beliefs, like how Buffalo Child’s beloved tie-dyed sky dance, known in the Denesuline language as ya’ke ngas (“the sky is stirring”), carried messages from his ancestors.

“I was on the land under the aurora even as a baby,” he said. “The aurora’s always been part of our life.”

This deep knowledge of nature and cultural connection to the night sky were foundational to his future as a professional northern-lights chaser and guide for his company . Now 60 years old, Buffalo Child has spent nearly two decades sharing his aurora-tracking abilities with those willing to make the journey up to Yellowknife. He is considered one of the most well-known aurora hunters in North America.

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This Local Reveals Her Favorite British Columbia Road-Trip Itinerary /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-british-columbia-road-trip/ Fri, 04 Oct 2024 10:00:02 +0000 /?p=2671244 This Local Reveals Her Favorite British Columbia Road-Trip Itinerary

B.C.’s beauty is hard to top. Our writer shares her ideal route, packed with stunning coastlines, mountain peaks, and insider tips on where to stay, eat, and play.

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This Local Reveals Her Favorite British Columbia Road-Trip Itinerary

Canada’s westernmost province, British Columbia spans a whopping 364,764 square miles. That’s enough room to swallow California whole, then gobble up Oregon and Washington and still have space left over for a dessert the size of Maine.

It’s also one of the most beautiful areas in the world to take a road trip.

More than 40,000 islands and islets dot B.C.’s meandering coastline, which encompasses everything from sandy beaches to rock cliffs. Ten iconic mountain ranges, from the Coast Mountains on the province’s west side to the Canadian Rockies along its eastern border with Alberta, create a seemingly endless connection of peaks and valleys that serve up every outdoor adventure imaginable.

I moved to B.C. from Colorado in 2017, drawn by the vast wilderness, rugged beauty, and low population density. I live in the small town of Nelson, located deep in the interior, in a subrange of the Columbia Mountains, sandwiched between the West Arm of Kootenay Lake and an inland temperate rainforest. I learned to slow down while driving, not just for the scenery and the absence of multi-lane highways, but because anyone behind the wheel in B.C. will undoubtedly cross paths with a bear, a moose, or a bighorn sheep. Sometimes all in the same day.

jayme moye hiking on a trail above her home in nelson british columbia
The author on the Flagpole Trail up Elephant Mountain, her favorite local hike, which overlooks her hometown of Nelson, in British Columbia (Photo: Courtesy Jayme Moye)

This is prime road-tripping country. I suggest starting and ending in Vancouver, home to one of Canada’s largest airports and half of the province’s 5 million people. My recommended route quickly moves away from the crowds. It sticks to the lower third of the province, where there are enough roadways and infrastructure to make this trip possible. There are multiple ferry crossings navigating the province’s numerous coastal inlets and, in the interior, the lush Columbia River Valley.

This route hits all of southern B.C.’s best destinations for outdoor adventure, from sea kayaking to rock climbing to alpine hiking and mountain biking. Because there are more than 200 distinct First Nations here, each with its own unique traditions and history, the road trip includes Indigenous cultural experiences wherever possible.

If you’re planning to go electric, Ìęprovides electric vehicle resources, including links to EV service networks to find available charging stations.

What follows is my favorite B.C. road trip, broken down into daily segments. You can drive it comfortably in eight days, or stay longer in each place and stretch it out. The best time to go is in the shoulder seasons, just after the snow melts in the late spring, or before it starts to fly again in the late fall.

If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more.

1. Vancouver to Port Renfrew

jayme moye in Avatar Grove, an old growth of trees near Port Renfrew
The author in Avatar Grove—an old-growth section of western red cedar and Douglas fir that are over 1,000 years old—near Port Renfrew. (Courtesy of Jayme Moye)

🚗 Distance: 136 miles, including ferry

➡ Route: Once you’re out of the city, the idyllic Juan De Fuca Hwy/BC-14 W traces Vancouver Island’s remote southwest coast.

You’ll kick off with a car ferry ride across the cobalt blue waters of the Salish Sea, from the city of Vancouver to Swartz Bay on mountainous Vancouver Island. Drive past Victoria, B.C.’s bustling capital city, and follow the West Coast Highway along the island’s rocky southern shoreline to Port Renfrew, a hamlet of fewer than 200 people.

Port Renfrew calls itself the Tall Tree Capital of Canada, and it’s hard to argue. The coastal community is situated at the end of a finger-shaped inlet on the rainy southwest side of Vancouver Island, where some of the biggest trees in the country have been discovered. Formerly a logging town, Port Renfrew has since rebranded itself as an ecotourism destination, with the Pacheedaht First Nation leading the effort to increase amenities for visitors.

The Best șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs in Port Renfrew

woman walking on a calm day at sombrio beach near jordan river and port renfrew
A calm day on Sombrio Beach, near Jordan River and Port Renfrew. This exposed reef break and north/northeast whippers power up swells for consistent and prime surfing. (Photo: Ben Giesbrecht)

Two of Vancouver Island’s greatest coastal hiking trails start (or end) in Port Renfrew: the 29-mile , to the southeast, and the 47-mile , to the northwest. Portions of the Juan de Fuca can be done as point-to-point day trips with a car. The West Coast Trail is more remote, with no road access beyond Port Renfrew.

Visit to meet “Canada’s gnarliest tree,” a 200-foot tall red cedar that’s buttressed by an enormous tangle of roots, and other charismatic old-growth giants. Volunteers with the Ancient Forest Alliance built and maintain the short-but-rugged trail that traverses the grove’s boggy bottom.

Drive up the logging road to admire “Big Lonely Doug,” the second-largest Douglas fir in Canada, appearing even taller than its 230 feet among the stumps of a clearcut.

To see the Red Creek Fir—the largest living in the world at nearly 44 feet in diameter —you’ll want a high-clearance vehicle and the confidence to follow a particularly rough logging road for about 7 miles sans cell phone coverage. Don’t forget to look up, all the way up. Big Red’s crown spans 75 feet.

Botanical Beach, one of the richest intertidal zones on the entire west coast of Canada, is a five-minute drive from town. The tide pools here teem with marine life, from anemones to urchins.

For the best surfing on the south side of the island, drive head east to Sombrio Beach or Jordan River. Wetsuit required.

Where to Stay in Port Renfrew

If you’re dreaming of a log cabin at the end of the world, Wild Renfrew’s at Snuggery Cove are hard to beat. The upscale dwellings come in a variety of sizes, some with kitchens, private beaches, and fire pits (from$259, two-night minimum stay required).

For a single night (and more budget-friendly) stay, head to the recently renovated (from $129). Dogs are welcome.

Pacheedaht Campground, owned and operated by the Pacheedaht First Nation, occupies a gorgeous strip of sandy beach where Gordon Creek empties into the inlet. Choose from forest sites, beach sites, or RV sites.

Where to Eat and Drink in Port Renfrew

is the place for gourmet comfort food like Renfrew Lager battered cod and chips, craft beer on tap, and wildlife watching (harbor seals and bald eagles are guaranteed).

For breakfast and lunch, opens at 4:30 a.m. to fuel even the earliest adventure. There are no grocery stores in town, so plan accordingly.

2. Port Renfrew to Tofino

A couple on a whale watching tour in Tofino
Whale watchers keep an eye out for orca, humpback, sea lion, and other creatures on a wildlife boat tour near Tofino (Photo: Destination BC/Jordan Dyck)

🚗 Distance: 213 miles

➡ Route: Take Pacific Marine Rd to Cowichan Valley Hwy to the Trans-Canada Highway, which follows the bustling east coast of the island before you exit west to Tofino.

The westernmost road in all of Canada dead-ends in Tofino, a small town at the tip of a peninsula on Vancouver Island’s rugged, mostly uninhabited west coast. Tofino’s surrounding 20-plus miles of flat, sandy beaches and consistent waves are an anomaly in Canada, making it the country’s unofficial surf capital.

While surfing is a big draw, it’s not the only reason to make the drive. Tofino is located inside the Clayoquot Sound UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and at the northern gateway to the vast coastal temperate rainforests of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, enabling a variety of world-class wilderness adventures.

The Best șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs in Tofino

Person on surfboard, paddling in the ocean near tofino
Tofino, the unofficial surf capital of Canada, has over 20 miles of beaches where everyone from beginner to advanced can get their fix year round. (Photo: Destination BC/Cristina Gareau)

Tofino is situated in the ha’houlthee (traditional territory) of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations. Visit the to learn about Indigenous history and culture, marine life, and the coastal temperate rainforest ecosystem.

Get in on a group surf lesson with , a Tofino institution since 1999, taught by female-only instructors. Wetsuit and surfboard included. All genders are welcome.

Experienced surfers can head straight to Chesterman Beach, Cox Bay, or Long Beach. Cox Bay is the site of all the big annual competitions, including the Rip Curl Pro Tofino/Canadian Surf Championships in April, and the Queen of the Peak Women’s Surf Championships in October. For gentler waters for stand-up paddleboarding, hit MacKenzie Beach or the Tofino Inlet.

Kayaking the wild coastline of Clayoquot Sound draws paddlers from all over the world. Tofino has nearly as many kayaking outfitters as it does surf shops, with options for all experience levels.

A wildlife-watching boat tour is a must while in Tofino. Black bears emerge from the rainforest to munch on mussels, and each spring, more than 20,000 gray whales swim through Clayoquot Sound while migrating north from Baja. Orcas, humpback whales, dolphins, sea lions, seals, sea otters, and a variety of aquatic birds like puffins also call these waters home.

Trails for hiking, running, and biking surround Tofino, winding through old-growth forests, dropping down to hidden beaches, and climbing up to scenic viewpoints. The recently completed (pronounced ups-cheek ta-shee) trail, is a paved, multi-use 15-mile path through Pacific Rim National Park, connecting Tofino to the hamlet of Ucluelet.

Where to Stay in Tofino

Tofino’s newest accommodation, , cultivates a playful 70s vibe with its hip dĂ©cor and unexpected amenities (from $255). Think: retro arcade, psychic’s den, and sunken living room lobby. Its restaurant , where locally-sourced ingredients are cooked by live fire, is already a local favorite.

In addition to 63 chic, modern guest rooms, (from $309) offers the Ìęin town. Its curates some of the top ocean experiences in the area, including guided deep-sea fishing for halibut, tuna, salmon, and lingcod; trips aboard a luxury powerboat to reach further-flung kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding destinations in Clayoquot Sound; and access to a private floating sauna in a hidden cove accessible only by boat.

The , located three miles outside of town on Chesterman Beach, is legendary for storm watching during the colder months of the year.

Where to Eat and Drink in Tofino

For a remote town of just 2,000 people, Tofino punches above its culinary weight. Several of its restaurants could hold their own in the world’s greatest cities. One of the newest, founded by a couple originally from South Korea by way of Vancouver, brings a modern take on Korean classics to the island. creates meals inspired by the local fishing and foraging culture like “seacuterie,” a platter of tuna conserva, boiled mackerel, and smoked salmon pastrami served alongside various breads, tapenades, and salsas.

The , located on Chesterman Beach, dishes up a fine-dining experience using British Columbia-sourced meat, fish, and produce, served with floor-to-ceiling ocean views. On the Rocks Bar, located on the restaurant’s upper level, is perfect for hand-crafted cocktails sipped during sunset.

3. Tofino to Powell River

A group of kayakers views birds and sea lions in Desolation Sound
Ocean kayakers pause to watch the circling birds and resting sea lions in the Desolation Sound (Photo: Sunshine Coast Tourism/Dolf Vermeulen)

🚗 Distance: 165 miles, including ferry

➡ Route: Pacific Rim Hwy/BC-4 E winds its way through the rainforest, back to the east coast. There, both the Inland Island Highway or Island Highway W will get you to the ferry station—choose Island Highway West to be closer to the water, so long as you don’t mind the slower pace.

Take the car ferry from Comox (B.C. Ferries Little River Terminal) to reach the B.C. mainland, and post up in the coastal town of Powell River. The original townsite is a National Historic District, with more than 400 buildings remaining from the early 1900s, including Canada’s oldest continually operating theater. Initially a paper mill town, Powell River has since been resettled by artists, adventurers, and entrepreneurs seeking an alternative to big-city life in Vancouver.

Some 13,000 people call remote Powell River home, navigating logging roads to access the abundant hiking, mountain biking, and rock-climbing in the Coast Mountains behind town. The Salish Sea sits on Powell River’s front doorstep, and up the coast to the north, Desolation Sound—the largest marine park in B.C.

The Best șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs in Powell River

kayaking in powell river british columbia
Kayaking the chilly, turquoise waters near Powell River makes for a pristine day trip along the way (Photo: Sunshine Coast Tourism/Jeremy Williams)

With 16 backcountry huts set along its 112 miles, the is Canada’s longest hut-to-hut hiking trail. For a day trip, trek uphill through a mossy forest of arbutus trees and Douglas fir to the Manzanita Hut. The eponymous bluff provides a panoramic view of the Salish Sea, looking out to the Copeland Islands and Savary Island.

Powell River’s regional district is known as qathet, meaning “working together, bringing together” in the Central Salish language of the Tla’amin First Nation. Here, volunteers maintain more than 200 miles of mountain biking trails. Connect with the for trail maps, to join a group ride, or to hire a guide.

The Eldred Valley’s vast granite walls soar 3,000 feet above the valley bottom. Picture Yosemite National Park, but in the rainforest, with no people and no amenities, save for a rustic campsite. Get beta (and a guidebook) at the . Then drive the Goat Lake Mainline logging road for 34 miles to reach the CAD campsite, named in memory of Colin Arthur Dionne who, along with his partner Christie, pioneered climbing in the area.

Rent a sea kayak from at the Lund marina for a short but scenic paddle over to the Copeland Islands Marine Provincial Park archipelago. For Desolation Sound, Terracentric offers multi-day guided kayaking and camping expeditions for groups of four or more.

The Powell Forest Canoe Route is a wilderness adventure covering 35 miles across a chain of eight backcountry lakes, backed by the craggy Coast Mountains. Plan for at least five days, and five portages through old-growth forests where black bears still roam.

“Zunga” is a word that originated in Powell River, referring to catapulting yourself into a body of water via a rope swing (the water gets surprisingly warm during the summer season). Ask around for the best spots, or stop in at Townsite Brewing, which named its pale ale after the practice.

Where to Stay in Powell River

Indulge in Powell River’s historic charm with a stay at the , a boutique heritage hotel with modern sensibilities like a washing station and storage for your mountain bike (from $165). in nearby Lund puts you a stone’s throw from launching a kayak in the Salish Sea. The cabins require a three-day minimum stay during the summer season (from $85).

Where to Eat and Drink in the Area

Boaters flock to Nancy’s Bakery, located at the Lund marina, known up and down the coast for its blackberry cinnamon buns. In Powell River, combines great coffee, local ingredients, and qathet region art. Dine at for views of the Salish Sea and to-die for Salt Spring Mussels, served in a tangy white-wine creole butter broth. Most locals—whether they drink alcohol or not—end up at aprùs outdoor adventure. The first microbrewery on the Sunshine Coast puts just as much care into its small-batch kombucha as it does its craft beer. Kids are welcome.

4. Powell River to Squamish/Whistler

people stand up paddling in Squamish
Stand up paddling along the breathtaking Sea-to-Sky Marine Trail near Squamish (Photo: Destination BC/Hubert Kang)

🚗 Distance: 121 miles, including ferry

➡ Route: Pleasant driving along the Sunshine Coast Hwy/BC-101 S followed by the stunningly scenic Sea-to-Sky Hwy/BC-99 N

It takes two car ferry crossings to navigate the inlets and fjords that keep Powell River so blissfully isolated from the rest of the B.C. mainland. Both crossings are exquisitely scenic, with little development to interrupt the natural coastline of rocky bluffs and cedars set beneath the snow-capped Coast Mountains.

The wilderness splendor doesn’t stop there. The Sea-to-Sky Highway is arguably the most picturesque road in all of BC. It traces Howe Sound north to Squamish, the rock-climbing capital of Canada, then continues on to Whistler, North America’s largest ski area. These two mountain towns are separated by 36 miles, yet deeply intertwined in terms of outdoor adventure. It’s nearly impossible to live in one without also recreating in the other.

Similarly, the Squamish and Lil’wat First Nations, the first stewards of these lands, are also strongly connected. The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, located in Whistler, celebrates these ties and is a must-visit. Time your trip to have lunch at the Centre’s Thunderbird CafĂ©; order the Bannock tacos.

The Best șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs in Squamish and Whistler

jayme moye at the top of the squamish gondola during winter in british columbia
The author at the top of Squamish’s tourism gondola. Check out the viewing platform for stunning panoramas of Howe Sound and its tall peaks. (Photo: Courtesy Jayme Moye)

Stawamus Chief Mountain, at 2,300 feet, presides over Squamish. Its massive cliff face is among the largest granite monoliths in North America. Climbers from all over the world come to test their mettle on 1,000+ climbs and bouldering routes in the area, many soaring high above Howe Sound. teaches brand new beginners, along with more advanced courses in multi-pitch climbing and rock rescue. The new enables non-climbers to ascend the Chief, using ladder-like rungs and safety cables.

Hikers can summit the Chief via a steep trail on the south side. Even more popular is the adjacent Sea to Summit Trail, an equally steep 4.5 mile trek that ends at the top of a tourism gondola, with a viewing platform for panoramic photos of Howe Sound and its surrounding peaks, and a well-appointed cafĂ©. Pro tip: Catch the gondola down. It’s a fun, spine-tinglingly steep ride with killer views (and saves your quads).

Whistler Bike Park opens in May and is widely considered one of the best destinations for lift-assisted downhill mountain biking on earth. For everything else, Squamish serves up five world-class riding zones with more than 300 trails. Beware the local sandbagging. Blues are more like blacks, or at the very least, dark blues. Visit to rent gear, to hire a guide, and get tips on which area is right for you.

B.C. is the birthplace of heliskiing, and once the snow melts, it becomes a prime heli-hiking and heli-biking destination. has been flying adventurers into the peaks surrounding Squamish and Whistler for 30 years now, and is the world’s first carbon neutral full-service helicopter company.

Squamish’s wilderness spa, , offers hot and cold therapy in the outdoors—in a meadow beneath a mountain cliff, or in the forest beside a stream. A wellness facilitator guides a private, three-hour immersive experience for you and your friends, alternating between the hot sauna and the cold plunge pools.

Where to Stay in Squamish

In downtown Squamish, the provides 20 comfy rooms alongside a craft brewery with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out at the Chief (from $170). For apartment-style suites with full kitchens and in-room laundry, choose the contemporary (from $389). To be in nature, but still close to town, book a chalet at .

Where to Eat and Drink in Squamish/Whistler

You can’t miss at , a long-time favorite for brunch (served from 9am to 3pm every day). The doles out casual gourmet grub from a food truck, with indoor/outdoor seating and a buzzy atmosphere that includes a full-service bar. Get the Bahn Mi, featuring Johnston’s farm seasoned pork loin and belly. For farm-to-table fine dining, head to in Whistler (reservations recommended).

5. Squamish to Revelstoke

Monashee Mountains near revelstoke with cloud banks
Spectacular peaks in the Monashee Mountain range near Revelstoke extend into Washington State to the south (Photo: Destination BC/Ryan Creary)

🚗 Distance: 354 miles

➡ Route: Relatively straightforward mountain driving on BC-99 N and the Trans-Canada Hwy/BC-1 E

Driving east into the vast B.C. interior, the flora shifts from coastal temperate rainforest to the semi-arid grasslands and ponderosa pines of the Thompson River Valley. As you get closer to Revelstoke, it morphs back to the same lichen-draped Western red cedar, spruce, and Douglas fir trees seen on the coast.

Welcome to B.C.’sÌęinlandÌętemperate rainforest, a rare ecosystem kept moist year-round by the abundant snowfall. An average of 35 feet of snow falls on Revelstoke every winter. Mount Copeland, a nearby peak, holds Canada’s record for the most snowfall in a single season—a mind-bending 80 feet. Needless to say, most of the town’s 8,200 residents are avid skiers and snowmobilers, and numerous professional snowsports athletes live here, like Leah Evans and Greg Hill.

But the fun doesn’t end when the powder melts. Some say Revy gets even better, with alpine hiking, mountain biking, and whitewater rafting. It’s also a hotbed of environmentalism, with locals working to preserve what’s left of the region’s old-growth forests from logging. B.C.’s newest conservancy, the Incomappleux, protects more than 140,000 acres of ancient trees in the wilderness southeast of town.

The Best șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs in Revelstoke

woman mountain biking with her kids in Illecillewaet Greenbelt Trails near Revelstoke
Revelstoke has a plethora of prime mountain bike trails—yes, even for families towing little ones behind—like the Illecillewaet Greenbelt system. (Photo: Kootenay Rockies Tourism/Mitch Winton)

While Revelstoke has some easy trails in the greenbelt alongside theÌęIllecillewaet and Columbia rivers, it’s the area’s alpine hiking that’s considered among the best in Canada. The above-treeline trails are plentiful inÌęRevelstoke Mountain Resort, and nearby . The local rite of passage is to trek to the top of (4.8 miles one-way). You can see Begbie’s unmistakable triple peak from almost anywhere in town. The trail is relentlessly steep, but pays off at the top with a bird’s eye view of the Columbia River and the seemingly endless peaks of the Monashee Mountains.

From lower-elevation trails through the mossy rainforest to alpine adventures in the Monashee and Selkirk mountains, Revelstoke’s mountain-biking scene is legendary. Start atÌę, where the Revelstoke Cycling Association maintains 25 miles of quintessential Revy singletrack interconnected with logging roads. Don’t miss Flowdown (blue), a local favorite for its playful, old-school flow.ÌęProgress to , arguably one of the greatest alpine mountain-biking experiences on the planet.

Revelstokians paraglide from Revelstoke Mountain Resort year-round. Visiting pilots can check withÌęÌęfor the essential information. Newbies can get a taste for the experience by booking a tandem flight to soar with an experienced pilot from Mount Mackenzie down to the banks of the Columbia River—the highest vertical commercial tandem paragliding launch in North America.

Starting in May, Revelstoke’s longest running river rafting outfitter,Ìę, guides half-day trips through the thrilling class IV whitewater of theÌęIllecillewaet River. Wetsuits provided.

Where to Stay in Revelstoke

Ìęhas a range of accommodations including camping and RV sites, cabins ranging from rustic to upscale, and luxury geodesic domes (from $54).

Revy’s newest high-end accommodation,Ìę, has an ideal location on the banks of the Columbia River (from $159). Walk across the street to access the trails of Revelstoke National Park.

Where to Eat and Drink in Revelstoke

, one of the original microbreweries in the area, is still a favorite more than 25 years later. Ask if any experimental beers are available. Locals get their coffee atÌę, along with their trendy eats like avo toast and gluten-free soups.Ìę, a delicious, upscale cafĂ© open for breakfast and lunch, sources its ingredients from Terra’s organic farm, located 3 miles away. Everyone loves the Ìęfor its mix-and-match menu of tacos, burritos, and enchiladas, not to mention its Caesar, the national cocktail of Canada, made with El Jimador Reposado instead of vodka.

6. Revelstoke to Nelson

a scenic ferry ride between Balfour and Kootenay Bay
Take a scenic 35 minute ferry ride between Balfour and Kootenay Bay when you stop in Nelson. (Photo: Kootenay Rockies Tourism/Mitch Winton/Kootenay Lake)

🚗 Distance: 156 miles, including ferry

➡ Route: A single-lane highway parallels the scenic shorelines of Upper Arrowhead and Slocan lakes.

You’re heading to my hometown! And I’m going to share some of my favorite things to do. From Revelstoke, follow the rugged river valley between the Monashee and Selkirk mountain ranges, then skirt the northern edge of Valhalla Provincial Park to reach the West Arm of Kootenay Lake and the notoriously laid-back Nelson, where shops still close for powder days. This quaint town of 10,000 boasts a surprisingly robust sailing community, world-class skiing, and a food and arts scene that rivals cities ten times its size.

During the Vietnam War, the hippie enclave of Nelson became a haven for American draft dodgers, drawing even more progressive idealists and non-conformists, and cementing the town’s contrarian Zeitgeist. Artists, naturalists, writers, and adventurers continue to find their way to Nelson. It’s the home of magazine, the , and the —an annual 4-day campout and rave at a 500-acre farm along the Salmo River.

The Best șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs in Nelson

jayme moye sailing her boat on Kootenay Lake in nelson, british columbia
The author out for a joy ride on her sailboat on Kootenay Lake near her home in Nelson, B.C. (Photo: Courtesy of Jayme Moye)

When the snow melts out, Whitewater Ski Resort transforms into a hiker’s paradise. The classic day hike is summiting (pronounced why-murr), the iconic ridgeline that overlooks the resort. Don’t be fooled by the short distance of 4 miles out-and-back—it’s a steep, challenging trek, compounded by exposure and a bit of scrambling. From the top, you can look into both Valhalla and Kokanee provincial parks, an endless string of peaks stretching all the way to the horizon. For a less taxing route in the vicinity, try the new (6.3-miles out-and-back) leading to the summit of White Queen.

The West Kootenay bouldering scene is arguably the fastest growing in Canada, with tons of high-quality gneiss and granite coupled with talented, motivated locals establishing new routes faster than anyone can document. The latest has close to 1,000 bouldering problems, and since it was printed in 2020, multiple new areas have been developed containing nearly 600 more routes. Get the latest updates at . Or go bouldering with the guidebook author himself, Allen Rollin, who is also the founder of . Transportation and bouldering pad included.

Nelson is the only town in the BC interior that’s fielded a , an epic annual event where teams race 746 miles from Port Townsend, Washington to Ketchikan, Alaskan through Canada’s Inside Passage. The , a non-profit group of local sailors, hosts friendly competitions at the local marina including the Beer Can Races, held every Wednesday and Sunday from May to October. They are always looking for crew, including brand new beginners. Captain Penny Caldwell teaches private and small group lessons through her company . Want to continue your road trip with a unique camping sailboat in tow? Nelson-based is the only commercial SCAMP builder in Canada.

The sand beach at Nelson’s Rotary Lakeside Park is the perfect place to launch a stand-up paddleboard. In the summer months, rent a SUP by the hour at the Nelson District Community outbuilding located at the water’s edge. Or for $65 a day from in town. Paddle east to reach Red Sands Beach, Nelson’s infamous nude beach located on the edge of the forest; or go west to explore the wildlife-rich bays adjacent to Nelson’s waterfront walking trail, then paddle straight across the West Arm to the rock cliffs on the other side to see the petroglyphs (look for the hidden cave inside the rock wall).

Mountain bikers love Nelson for its distinct type of trails, nostalgically referred to as classic BC-style (Read: highly technical singletrack with long vertical descents full of airs, bridges, steeps, roots, and rock slabs). Many of the town’s surrounding trail networks were hand-built, and some have been around for longer than any of the people who ride them. The builds and maintains 180+ trails spanning 168 miles. Hit their website for trail maps and conditions reports.

Take a scenic drive along Kootenay Lake to reach , owned and operated by the Lower Kootenay Band, Yaqan Nukiy, which means “where the rock stands.” Besides the large hot springs pool overlooking the lake and the peaks beyond, Ainsworth features a rare natural hot springs cave. Walking through the cave’s various chambers, among the otherworldly-formations created by the mineral rich water, is a different kind of adventure. Public entry is Wednesday through Sunday and by reservation only. Leave time for lunch (or dinner) at to experience Indigenous-inspired cuisine like skillet-roasted Salt Spring mussels with wild boar sausage served alongside house made bannock.

Where to Stay in Nelson

Nelson’s more than 300 heritage buildings give its downtown core a distinct charm, exemplified by the at the corner of Vernon and Ward streets (from $170). The elegant Hume harkens back to 1898 and, in addition to its boutique hotel rooms, offers two standout restaurants, an English-style pub, the Spirtbar nightclub, and a luxury .

The Hummingbird Lodge and Campground opened in July 2023. It is located at the boundary of Whitewater Ski Resort and , offers RV and tent 15 forested camping sites, 10 RV sites, a stylish two-bedroom suite, and a café (from $35).

Where to Eat and Drink in Nelson

Nelson boasts more restaurants per capita than San Francisco. A stroll down Baker Street, the main drag, validates that claim, with multiple restaurants and cafes on every block, and spilling over into the side streets. is a favorite with both locals and visitors for its casual atmosphere and yummy street-style tacos. Newcomer occupies a stylish space with a contemporary Italian-inspired menu to match. Its pizzas are the best in town.

Foodies head to for craft cocktails and healthy farm-to-table gourmet like free range half roasted chicken for two with seasonal vegetables. is an authentic Japanese restaurant with exceptionally good sushi served in a friendly, unpretentious setting.

7. Nelson to Vancouver

Spirit Ridge Lake Resort and vineyard near the Nk'mip Cultural Centre
Spirit Ridge Lake Resort and vineyard near the Nk’mip Cultural Centre in Osoyoos (Photo: Destination Canada)

🚗 Distance: 410 miles
➡ Route: Crowsnest Hwy/BC-3 WÌętoÌęTrans-Canada Hwy/BC-1 W over two un-intimidating mountain passes.

Halfway between Nelson and Vancouver lies Osoyoos, the southern gateway to the Okanagan Valley, Canada’s most celebrated wine region. The south Okanagan is a rare (for Canada) desert ecosystem, specifically a shrub-steppe semi-desert. Its warm, sunny days, low humidity, and cool nights create ideal conditions for growing red varietals, and Osoyoos produces award-winning merlots, cabernet sauvignons, and cabernet francs.

Imagine the best of California and Colorado wine countries combined into a single dreamscape of lakeside vineyards and orchards, with rolling foothills covered in sagebrush and pine set against a backdrop of arid mountain peaks. The cerulean-blue waters of Osoyoos Lake are said to be the warmest of all of Canada’s freshwater lakes, reaching 75 degrees in the summer.

The Best șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs in Osoyoos

Spotted Lake in Osoyoos, british columbia
Spotted Lake in Osoyoos has minerals that create oval effects on the water, and that change colors with the seasons. This is also a sacred healing site for the Sylix Okanagan People. (Photo: Destination BC/Andrew Strain)

Visit the (pronounced in-ka-meep), a state-of-the-art interpretive center, to learn about the past, present, and future of the Osoyoos Indian Band. Explore indoor and outdoor cultural and ecology exhibits (including meeting a rattlesnake up close), hands-on displays, and two multi-media theater experiences. In the late spring and summer, interpretive guides lead walking tours through the grasslands of the 50-acre property, which includes a traditional village complete with a pit house and sweat lodge.

The scenic backroads and gently rolling terrain of were made for wine-tasting by bike. Starting in April, offers daily tours of local vineyards astride a Cube Hybrid One. You’ll be able to go farther and faster thanks to the pedaling boost from a 250-watt Bosch Performance series electric motor.

The rock-climbing season at Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park, located 45 minutes north in Penticton, starts as early as March courtesy of the warm, dry climate. More than 60 crags encompassing about 1,000 routes—mostly mid-grade sport climbing—can be found here. Skaha gets busy in the summer, but spring is blissfully mellow. are the local experts for the area, with more than 30 years in the biz.

Don’t miss the pullout off of Highway 3 West to view Spotted Lake, a sacred site for healing known as kƂlilx’w by the Sylix Okanagan People. The small lake has an usually high mineral content, and as the weather gets warmer, the water begins to evaporate, leaving behind rich mineral deposits in an explosion of color ranging from blue to green to yellow.

Where to Stay in Osoyoos

The 226 adobe-style condos and villas of , located adjacent to the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre, come with full kitchens and fantastic views of Anarchist Mountain or Osoyoos Lake (from $284). There are EV charging stations on site and dog-friendly suites by request. Plus the , which specializes in treatments using local ingredients like sage oil.

offers roomy, condo-style suites in a variety of configurations, many with BBQs and private outdoor patios overlooking the water (from $200). Dogs are welcome, and have easy access to the pet-swim area of the local beach, located one block from the resort. The resort’s is the South Okanagan’s newest destination restaurant, dishing up regional cuisine with fine wine pairings, like 63 Acres braised short ribs with cabernet sauvignon.

Where to Eat and Drink in Osoyoos

is the first Indigenous-owned winery in North America. In the spring and summer, the award-winning winery also serves food alfresco style. Enjoy your wine with farm-to-table cuisine like wild mushroom gnocchi from the winery’s outdoor patio overlooking the vineyard and Osoyoos Lake beyond.

at Spirit Ridge Resort dishes up modern regional classics with an Indigenous flair. The restaurant’s name refers to the influence of the “Four Food Chiefs,” representing the four elements of Indigenous cuisine, according to the Syilx People of the Okanagan Nation: Bear, Salmon, Bitterroot, and Saskatoon Berry. Its weekend brunch is really something special, with options like Beetroot Cured Salmon Benny and Banana Bread French Toast.

Located just above town on what’s known as the Black Sage Bench, is an organic and biodynamic estate vineyard. Its restaurant offers unforgettable two- or three-course fixed menus featuring Okanagan Valley meats and produce, and sweeping desert and vineyard views.

stands out for putting a taproom in a wine country town. (And for doing it in 2020, and surviving the pandemic). Besides craft beer served in “crowlers,”Ìę jumbo-sized cans that hold about two pints, North Basin Brewing Co. also serves live music and comedy, hosts food trucks, and provides a huge outdoor patio that’s family- and dog-friendly. Patrons are welcome to BYOF (bring your own food), either from home or by ordering delivered from a number of participating local eateries.

Hope to see you on the road.

jayme moye sailing on her boat in nelson, british columbia
The author sailing on her boat near her home in Nelson, B.C. (Photo: Courtesy Jayme Moye)

Jayme Moye (on Instagram ) has driven portions of this B.C. route dozens of times since relocating to Canada. She finally drove the entire thing in one go last year. And this past summer, she took a week with her husband and their dog to sail the length of Slocan Lake.

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These 11 Dark-Sky Retreats Are the Perfect Places to Look Up /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-dark-sky-retreats/ Thu, 01 Aug 2024 09:00:59 +0000 /?p=2676527 These 11 Dark-Sky Retreats Are the Perfect Places to Look Up

You’ll be counting stars at these one-of-a-kind remote outposts. The other nearby adventures are pretty cool, too.

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These 11 Dark-Sky Retreats Are the Perfect Places to Look Up

Some people book hotels for high-quality gyms; others prioritize al fresco bathtubs. For me, an astrophotographer, accommodation selection comes down to one thing: stargazing potential.

With the recent astrotourism boom, due in part to the amazing northern-lights viewing in the U.S. this year, many lodges have bolstered their night-sky offerings. But not all dark-sky retreats are created equally. Simply having a view of constellations or being located near a low-light-pollution park doesn’t necessarily make for a stellar stargazing hotel.

A true dark-sky retreat makes the nightscape a main attraction. I’ve traveled to my fair share of properties that fit this bill, and others I can’t wait to check into for a night of cosmos-watching. Here are the ones I recommend in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico.

Sky Village at Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch

Cortez, Colorado

A glowing Milky Way shines above the Star Tower lodging at Colorado’s Canyon of the Ancient.
The Star Tower is one of two ranch accommodations ideal for stargazing. The tower can sleep up to three people, and the nearby Sky Kiva can sleep up to two. Both offer free Wi-Fi, radiant in-floor heating, air-conditioning, and a full kitchen. (Photo: Courtesy Canyon of the Ancients)

Hidden among the mesas and grassy valleys of the arid Colorado Plateau lies one of my favorite Milky Way–watching lookouts on the continent: . The southwestern Colorado getaway, bookended between its namesake monument and the Ute Mountain Reserve, enjoys pristine night views best enjoyed from the new Star Tower, a two-story structure with views of Sleeping Ute Mountain that opened in 2023.

Its architecture is reminiscent of the Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings found at nearby Mesa Verde National Park, located 30 miles east. You can spend days here bouncing between parks, hiking the nearby trails, and meeting the ranch’s farm animals. Come nightfall, all eyes are on the sky—particularly if you’re relaxing on the tower’s star-view deck. From $515

oTentik

Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan

Otentik accommodations on the prairie at the Frenchman Valley Campground of Grasslands National Park
You’ll have an A-frame all to yourself (or up to five guests) at the Frenchman Valley campground. One of these four is pet-friendly, and all tents have sleeping platforms, a table, Adirondack chairs, a deck, and a fire pit.Ìę(Photo: Courtesy Benjamin Hutton Photography)

As our northern neighbor’s inkiest dark-sky preserve, certified by the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada, nightscapes are about as star-speckled as they were when the dinosaurs tromped here—a history that draws fossil hunters and astrotourists alike.

Few accommodations exist in this 280-square-mile swath of mixed-grass prairie, but you can book Parks Canada’s , a collection of 12 cozy safari-style accommodations in the Frenchman Valley and Rock Creek campgrounds, designed with both sleeping and living-room spaces for up to six people. Based here, you can scour for fossils and admire the resident buffalo by day and gaze across 360 degrees of starry skies from your tent perch come dusk.

It’s worth mentioning that the park is ideally situated near the remote Saskatchewan-Montana border, a spot known for aurora sightings. Like many of our favorite contiguous U.S. aurora-hunting spots, lights viewing can occur here year-round. From $115

Under Canvas Bryce Canyon

Widtsoe, Utah

At Under Canvas’s location near Bryce Canyon, Utah, its Stargazer Tent is designed with an alcove with a zip-away flap that lets you look up through a net to the stars.
The Stargazer tent is designed with an alcove viewing area that gives you clear views of the heavens while in bed. (Photo: Courtesy BaileyMade/Under Canvas)

, lauded for its upscale, national-park-adjacent glamp sites, made an astrotourism splash in 2023 when it partnered with global light-pollution authority DarkSky International to turn a into the first DarkSky-certified resorts. At this especially incredible 50-tent outpost, located just 15 miles north of Bryce Canyon, an International DarkSky Park, the skies turn particularly dusky each night.

According to the nine-level Bortle Scale of , the property’s skies have the darkest rating: Class 1. Admire constellations from your private porch, join guided stargazing sessions, try meditative star bathing, or get hands on with community telescopes. The crùme de la crùme for space enthusiasts is the Stargazer tent, which features a large skylight to admire starry skies as as you doze off.

Under Canvas Bryce Canyon, is open from May through September. From $472

Fresh Coast Cabins

Eagle Harbor, Michigan

One of Michigan’s Fresh Coast Cabins at night, surrounded by a few trees, with the Milky Way stretching across the sky above.
The author took this shot during a stay at Fresh Coast Cabins. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

While I’ve enjoyed northern lights sightings around the world, few places have been as lucky for me as , ten trendy, family-owned cabins on Michigan’s Keweenaw Peninsula. It ticks every box on my lower 48 aurora-hunting checklist: a clear, north-facing view across Lake Superior—essential for catching the swirls since they appear closer to the horizon in lower latitudes—and virtually no light pollution.

Its spacious campfire-gathering space draws guests outdoors at night for a few hours of star- and aurora-gazing, but I recommend that avid sky-watchers book Cabin Nine or the slightly pricier Aurora Major Suite. Both boast private porches with sweeping lake views. After a dose of astronomical awe, pop into the property’s new , a traditional Finnish construction, then trot the path down to the lake for a reinvigorating dip in its waters. Repeat as needed. From $300

Four Seasons Resort Lanai

Lanai City, Hawaii

The observatory at Hawaii’s Four Season Resort Lanai is a special place where you can take in amazing views of the cosmos. (Photo: Courtesy Robb Gordon/Four Seasons)

The 213-room may be a five-star splurge, but for night-sky buffs interested in stargazing as well as authentic Native culture, it’s worth it. The resort, set on this small, palm-fringed island roughly an hour via ferry from Maui, runs that spotlights both the stars and the stories of the Indigenous Hawaiians and Pacific Islanders that long relied on them for navigation. The observatory is also open to residents during special community events and for STEM internship programs for local students.

Expert-led star talks delve into celestial navigation history, and you can peer through a 3.2-foot telescope for a closer look at the skies. Other evening activities at the resort include full-moon themed dinners and guided starlit meditations overlooking Holopoe Bay, where the crashing waves add a splash of sound therapy. From $1,500

Pleasant Acres Reindeer Ranch

Pleasant Valley, Alaska

Swirls of green northern lights ripple in the sky above the Pleasant Acres Reindeer Ranch igloos in Alaska.
Igloo-style housing, each suitable for up to two people, makes for magical moments in this Alaskan outpost. (Photo: Courtesy Pleasant Acres Reindeer Ranch)

Aurora hunting from , a new getaway some 30 miles east of Fairbanks, is like sky-watching from a holiday snow globe. The 18-acre property is about as North Pole as U.S. travel gets. There are four igloo-style domes, named after caribou herds in Alaska, and each with a private deck positioned just above a bustling reindeer hangout. That means endless nights of watching for the northern lights with Santa’s helpers lazing nearby. Another thoughtful perk is a kitchenette equipped with a microwave—perfect for warming cocoa during long nights awake.

Worried about dozing through the show? Sign up for the ranch’s complimentary aurora alerts so you don’t miss a second of the colorful swirls. Daytime adventures include reindeer hikes and dogsled rides. And if you visit during the summer, the ranch has room-darkening shades for snoozing despite the all-hours midnight sun. From $280

The Oasis at Death Valley

Death Valley National Park, California

The Oasis Inn, set among the desert hills within Death Valley National Park, California, is located in the heart of dark-sky country.
Darkness is on display at the Oasis’s Inn at Death Valley, a four-diamond resort that has been hosting stars—the movie kind—since 1927. (Photo: Courtesy the Oasis at Death Valley)

There’s a reason stargazers flock to this national park. Its remote and arid landscape, named a Gold Tier Dark Sky Park by DarkSky International, delights with obsidian skies across its 3.4 million acres of salt flats, sand dunes, and rainbow-hued hills. Even on bright-moon nights at the , I could spy countless stars. That said, it’s best to visit around a new moon, particularly in the less toasty months of October to February, for after-dark festivities that spotlight the park’s spellbinding skies.

The Oasis, included in DarkSky International’s certification of the park in 2013, offers two hotels: the higher-end , with 66 rooms and 22 casitas, and the , with 275 rooms. You’ll enjoy the park’s signature nightscapes from either landing pad, particularly during the annual in early March. Another great post-sunset adventure is the s offered by Furnace Creek Stables ($120 for one hour). Ranch rooms from $170; inn rooms from $356

Rancho La ConcepciĂłn

Los Manzanos, Mexico

Atop Baja’s Cerro de la Cupula is Mexico’s National Astronomical Observatory.
Mexico’s National Astronomical Observatory is found within the adjacent national park, atop its highest peak. (Photo: Photo Beto/Getty)

A heaven full of stars awaits travelers willing to go off-grid to this small, sustainable, and Wi-Fi-free ranch in the wilderness of Baja California, some 115 miles southeast of Ensenada. offers three rustic-chic cabins near the mountainous Parque Nacional Sierra de San Pedro Mártir, an area so dark that astronomers decided to situate the country’s second-largest telescope here. You can visit , a 23-mile drive east, during select public events, including presentations the first Friday of each month.

That said, Rancho La Concepción’s Bortle Class 1 skies make it hard to leave—particularly when the owners run space-sighting sessions with hot chocolate on hand. If there’s just one or two of you, book to watch the sparkly skies from bed. From $130

Thorny Mountain Fire Tower

Seneca State Forest, West Virginia

From West Virginia’s Thorny Mountain Fire Tower, you have an eagle-eye view of the surrounding Appalachians, not to mention 360-degree star surrounds.
From this fire tower, you have an incredible view of the surrounding Appalachians. On a clear night, the stars is equally spectacular. (Photo: Courtesy West Virginia Department of Tourism)

On the eastern side of West Virginia, a half-day’s drive from Washington, D.C., Seneca State Forest draws anglers and hikers eager to trek the area’s strech of the 330-mile Allegheny Trail. Come nightfall, there’s no better vantage point than the forest’s 65-foot-highÌę, a refurbished accommodation and picturesque dark-sky retreat that juts well above the pines.

The two-bed tower can sleep up to four people and retains the rustic, low-frills aesthetic of its 1935 beginnings, with 360-degree windows and a wrap-around balcony that lets Mother Nature do the decorating. The digs, reached via 69 steps, are only available from April through October and get scooped up almost a year in advance. Once you’re there, staring up in wonder at the bright cosmos, it’s not hard to see why it’s so special. From $150

Compass Rose Lodge

Huntsville, Utah

The Compass Rose Lodge, in Utah, is has a large hotel facility and two tepees outdoors.
The Compass Rose Lodge was recently nominated by USA Today as one of this year’s best boutique hotels in the country. (Photo: Courtesy Compass Rose Lodge)

The Ogden Valley isn’t solely for ski buffs. The eclectic 15-room illustrates the region’s astrotourism allure, starting with the on-site . The stargazing haven, roughly 45 miles north of Salt Lake City, is open to guests and the local community, with telescopes to peer into space and nightly guided observations.

Also worthy of your time is the , just 2.5 miles north of the Compass Rose.Ìę A 13-mile-long model of our solar system, the project includes sculptures and artistic renderings of the planets, best enjoyed on a ride along the (bike rentals are available at the lodge). From $279

Summit at Big Bend

Terlingua, Texas

The dome accommodations at the Summit at Big Bend, Texas, are located in a wide area of desert, with a starry sky above.
Glamping options include Summit Domes, seen here, which sleep up to four; a similar but smaller option is the the Stargazing Domes, with more windows. (Photo: Courtesy Justin Lin)

At nine million acres, southern Texas’s Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve is the largest dark sky reserve in the world. It encompasses not only Big Bend National Park but the ghost town of Terlingua and its nearby astro hub, the . Its glamping accommodations, from domes to cave dwellings, offer jet-black Bortle Class 1 nightscapes across 1,000 private desert acres.

For astronomy fans, it’s tough to beat—or catch any shut-eye in—the property’s stargazing domes, where clear ceilings and front walls are optimal for watching the shrub-dotted desert transition from blue-sky day to shimmery polka-dotted twilight. Catch the cosmos from your dome or your ownÌę fire pit, or enjoy the reserve’s numerous other , including astro programming in nearby —its Maverick Junction entrance is 17 miles to the east. From $159

The author in the dark outside at night, wearing a headlamp and setting up her camera equipment.
A fan of dark skies, the author has her outdoor setup for photographing the night skies dialed. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍű and astrotourism writer Stephanie Vermillion travels the globe in search of the best night-sky views, from stargazing-themed hotels to aurora-hunting campsites. Her upcoming book 100 Nights of a Lifetime: The World’s Ultimate șÚÁÏłÔčÏÍűs After Dark will be out December 3.

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