Biking Archives - şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online /tag/biking/ Live Bravely Wed, 19 Feb 2025 23:04:09 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Biking Archives - şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online /tag/biking/ 32 32 The 7 Best Road Trips in the Southwest /adventure-travel/national-parks/best-road-trips-southwest/ Wed, 19 Feb 2025 10:00:05 +0000 /?p=2695788 The 7 Best Road Trips in the Southwest

From Arizona's canyons to Utah's buttes and beyond, our national parks columnist shares the most adventurous Southwest road-trip itineraries

The post The 7 Best Road Trips in the Southwest appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

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The 7 Best Road Trips in the Southwest

The Southwest always seems to me like a bit of a fever dream. The country’s deepest canyons, wildest buttes, and broadest deserts spread here from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific Ocean, offering a landscape so unlike any other in the country, you might think you’ve left earth altogether. It is a hot, inhospitable territory that demands respect, but it is also outrageously beautiful, with rock outcroppings that seem painted in shades of red and white, blooming cacti, and shifting dunes that undulate like waves onto the horizon.

The easiest and most efficient way to explore the Southwest is by car, bouncing from one breathtaking adventure to the next, so I’ve created seven different road-trip itineraries, one in each state of this stunning slice of our nation. I’ve driven the majority of these routes, while the remaining few are on my list of dream adventures. And each of these has something for everyone—beaches, sand dunes, cliffs, rivers, hikes, bike rides, fishing holes, and more.

Set your playlist, and pack the sunscreen. Here are the seven best road trips in the Southwest.

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1. Nevada

Las Vegas to the Valley of Fire

đź“Ť Distance: 175 Miles
đźš— Duration: 3 days

man rides his bike in the desert around Rock Rock Conservation Area, a stop on one of the best road trips in the southwest
Desert mountain biking in the vast recreational spaces found amazingly close to Las Vegas (Photo: Courtesy Las Vegas Cyclery/Escape şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs)

The obvious, and most common, road trip from Vegas would be to beeline straight for the Grand Canyon, but you do not want to overlook the suite of public lands that rings Sin City. The fun begins just 20 miles west of downtown Las Vegas at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, a 195,000-acre park that is internationally known for its multi-pitch rock climbing, though my epic adventures here have been of other types.

My favorite way to explore Red Rock is by road bike, pedaling the 13-mile Scenic Drive through the heart of the park. The road has one-way traffic and a big shoulder, so there’s plenty of room, and you’ll have both long-range and up-close views of the surrounding red sandstone cliffs and canyons. has bike rentals (from $40 a day). If you show up in the summer, do your adventures early in the morning before the heat gets unbearable.

Next skirt around the south side of Las Vegas for 70 miles to Lake Mead National Recreation Area, home to the massive Hoover Dam. I like Lake Mohave, a shallow, narrow reservoir below Hoover that follows the original path of the Colorado River through a series of canyons. If you’re looking for a full-day (or multi-day) adventure, paddle a piece of the 30-mile Black Canyon National Water Trail, which begins at the base of the dam and ends in Arizona, passing beaches, hot springs, and side canyons.

woman canoes in calm water in the Black Canyon, Nevada
Joyce Kehoe of Boulder City, Nevada, paddles in the Black Canyon below Hoover Dam on the Colorado River. (Photo: Courtesy Desert şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs)

Only boaters with commercial licenses can launch below the dam, so hook up with , which offers DIY rentals and shuttles or guided trips throughout the water trail. Or for a quicker adventure, drive directly to Willow Beach, and paddle two miles upstream to Emerald Cave, a narrow side canyon with clear, shallow water below 75-foot sandstone walls (tours from $139 per person; rentals from $80 per boat).

Emerald Cave, near Las Vegas
A paddler explores the green waters of the Emerald Cave, in the Black Canyon,Ěýroughly 60 miles from Las Vegas and only accessible via boat. (Photo: Courtesy Desert şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs)

has tent sites and RV sites in the hills above the sandy beach from $45 a night.

Driving north, you can stop at Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada’s largest state park at 46,000 acres, where red and pink sandstone cliffs and canyons fill the valley, the walls popping out of the tan, scrubby dirt. Catch the area at sunset and you could think the whole valley is on fire. The park is full of short, scenic trails for hikers. The 3.3-mile loop takes in iconic features, from a narrow slot canyon to the sinuous Fire Wave, where the striped sandstone seems to flow like water.

Snag a campsite at one of the two from $10.

2. Utah

Bryce Canyon National Park to Capitol Reef National Park

đź“Ť Distance: 125 miles
đźš— Duration: 3 days

hoodoos in Bryce Canyon National Park, a stop on one of the best road trips in the southwest
Bryce Canyon National Park has the world’s most abundant collection of the slender desert spires known as hoodoos. You can see them while walking the Rim Trail past the famous overlooks of Inspiration Point, Sunset Point, and Sunrise Point, or descend below the rim and hike among them. (Photo: Courtesy )

It’s tempting to try to hit all of Utah’s national parks in a single trip, but you’d have to cover more than 1,000 miles and spend more time in your vehicle than on the trails. Instead, focus on this slice of Utah by driving the 122-mile Scenic Byway 12, which connects Bryce Canyon National Park with Capitol Reef National Park, hitting Grand Escalante National Monument in the middle. I drove this route last fall and was in constant awe of its beauty and diversity, as we cruised through sandstone tunnels at one point, then climbed to an aspen forest at another.

Pick up Highway 12 in the small town of Panguitch, about 50 miles east from Interstate 12, and keep driving east to Bryce Canyon National Park. Bryce, known for its hoodoos (sandstone spires that rise from the valley floor) is one of the country’s smallest national parks at just 35,835 acres, which means you can see a lot in a short amount of time. Combine Queen’s Garden Trail with Navajo Loop Trail for a that begins on the rim of the canyon, then drops into the belly, passing hoodoos, arches, and tall cliffs.

Burr Trail, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
This view from the historic Burr Trail, a 66-mile scenic back road that winds through sections of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, shows the Lower Gulch approaching Longs Canyon. The road also offers views of the Henry Mountains and the famous geological feature known as the Waterpocket Fold. (Photo: Devaki Murch)

Heading north, Highway 12 moves through the heart of the massive Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, a 1.9-million-acre park with expanses of slick rock and sandstone canyons stretching all the way to the horizon. I was lucky enough to spend a couple of days in the monument, scrambling down slot canyons and bushwhacking through the heart of a broad canyon before reaching the lush Escalante River. It’s beautiful but unforgiving terrain that delivers plenty of solitude. Drive the unimproved dirt Hole-in-the-Rock Road (high-clearance two-wheel drive vehicles are usually OK) 33 miles south to the Dry Fork Slots to hike a through Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Slot Canyons, where the passage narrows to about a foot wide at certain points, and scrambling is mandatory. Too adventurous? Try hiking to , a 6.5-mile loop through a smooth canyon that ends at a 124-foot waterfall.

There’s plenty of camping and lodging around the town of Escalante. , inside the monument, offers seven primitive sites ($10 a night) with no frills. Or go upscale and snag a cabin or Airstream at , a camping-and-cabin resort with a drive-in movie theater, pool, and food truck (cabins from $175 a night).

cabins, movie screen, Airstreams, and lodge at Ofland Escalante, a stop on one of the best road trips in the southwest
Aerial view of Ofland Escalante, just near the town of the same name, in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, southern Utah (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

Driving 65 miles further north on Highway 12, you’ll climb Boulder Mountain through Dixie National Forest before hitting the town of Torrey and Capitol Reef National Park. Here, you’ll find historic fruit orchards, sandstone domes, and more canyons than you could ever hope to explore. Start your journey with , a 3.4-mile out-and-back that crosses broad sections of slickrock before ending at a 125-foot-wide natural arch. Or hook up with and go canyoneering, dropping into the belly of narrow canyons deep inside the park ($300 for the first person).

For a longer adventure, check out our sister publication’s “.”

3. Colorado

Colorado National Monument to Rocky Mountain National Park

đź“Ť Distance: 310 miles
đźš— Duration: 3-5 days

Grand Lake, Colorado
Grand Lake is the western gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, with its own bounty of recreational opportunities. (Photo: Courtesy Grand Lake Chamber)

Colorado offers a ton of incredible scenery, and this particular road trip takes you from the desert canyons of Colorado National Monument to the high alpine terrain of Rocky Mountain National Park. The diversity of adventure is off the charts, too, with opportunities for sandstone-heavy hikes, big mountain-bike descents, and whitewater rafting.

Start near the western border of the state, at Colorado National Monument, a 20,000-acre park with sheer cliffs and vertigo-inducing sandstone towers. Just driving the 23-mile Rim Rock Drive is worth the price of admission, with near-constant views of the canyon below, including of the massive Independence Monument, a 450-foot tall sandstone pillar.

Independence Monument
Independence Monument was climbed by a trail builder and blacksmith named John Otto in 1911. Otto hammered metal bars into the rock and even carved footholds in places. He also lobbied fervently for protection for the wild lands of the area, and was key in the establishment of Colorado National Monument that year. (Photo: Graham Averill)

But you’ll definitely want to get out of your car and explore this monument by foot. The Devil’s Kitchen is an easy, 1.2-mile out-and-back that gives you the chance to scramble over boulders and explore narrow sandstone channels. Get up close to Independence Monument on the , a 5.2-mile point-to-point that meanders past some of the monument’s most recognizable rock formations, including the set of rounded pillars dubbed the Coke Ovens and a tower known as the Kissing Couple, because it looks like two people entwined.

rider on the Palisade Plunge stopping for a mountain bike lap along one of the best road trips in the southwest
A rider feels the open air on the 32-mile Palisade Plunge, starting off the Grand Mesa at nearly 11,000 feet and descending about 6,000 feet into the town of Palisade, Colorado. The much-anticipated trail, over two years in the making, opened in summer 2021. (Photo: Graham Averill)

After exploring the monument, head east for 25 miles to the town of Palisade, where you can tackle a piece of the , a 32-mile mostly downhill piece of singletrack that drops 6,000 feet off the rim of the Grand Mesa into the edge of downtown. The trail has multiple access points, so you don’t have to bite off the entire distance. has shuttles and rentals starting in March (check then for prices).

Head 75 miles northeast to Glenwood Springs to spend the night at , which has van-life sites on the Colorado River (from $112 a night) as well as glamping tents and cabins (from $179 a night). You can book a half-day on the Colorado, which includes the 1.5-mile-long class III Shoshone Rapids (from $75 per person), or just soak in one of the 17 different pools at , where each tub is tailored to a different temperature (from $44 per person).

When you’re refreshed, or worn out, drive northeast for 125 miles through to Rocky Mountain National Park, one of the most popular national parks in the country (4.1 million visitors in 2023). Don’t worry, most of those visitors enter through the Estes Park side, while you’ll access the park on the much-less crowded Grand Lake entrance. I remember, on a trip with my kids, seeing a moose in the valley near Grand Lake and marveling that we were the only people on the trail at the time.

Head to the for a choose-your-own-adventure sort of hike. For a short jaunt that packs a big punch, hike the three-mile out-and-back Green Mountain Trail up to Big Meadow, which in the summer is full of wildflowers and hosts the occasional moose. Or if you really want to get after it, combine the Green Mountain Trail, Tonahutu Creek Trail, and Hayach Lakes Trail for a 17-mile out-and-back that culminates at Hayach Lake, a natural pool that sits at 11,000 feet in elevation in the shadow of the craggy Nakai Peak. Turn it into an overnight if you like, choosing among multiple backcountry campsites along the way ($36 fee for a ).

For a longer adventure, check out our sister publication’s “.”

4. Texas

San Antonio to the Gulf

đź“Ť Distance: 250 miles
đźš— Duration: 3-5 days

Padre Island National Seashore
Padre Island National Seashore, looking from the north to the south (Photo: scgerding/Getty)

Texas is big, so you need to narrow your focus for a road trip here, because getting from point A to point B can sometimes take you all day. This particular route starts with some urban exploration in San Antonio and ends on one of the longest undeveloped beaches in the country. In between are quiet swamps, beach campsites, and plenty of paddle trails.

The San Antonio Riverwalk in San Antonio, Texas
The San Antonio River Walk in San Antonio, Texas, is an inspiration for waterfront pathways in many other cities. Some sections are lively, with waterside tables and umbrellas, and others are quieter amid greenery. (Photo: Robert D. Barnes/Getty)

San Antonio might not seem like the perfect place to start an adventure trip, but the city’s 15-mile River Walk, expanded in the late 1990s, has served as an inspiration for other similar projects ever since and it’s still one of the coolest urban bike rides you can do. Five miles of the path cruise through downtown, but the best biking is just south of town in the , an eight-mile linear park that connects historic missions, grasslands, and wildflower meadows, all protected as the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park.

San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, Texas
The ancient Mission Espada Bell Tower stands tall behind Pride of Barbados flowers at San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, Texas. (Photo: Courtesy Andrew Shirey/NPS)

After spinning around San Antonio, drive east towards the Gulf of Mexico, making a pitstop at Palmetto State Park—a small stretch just 25 miles east of San Antonio, that’s home to the sort of tropical jungle you’re more likely to find in Florida—complete with dwarf palmettos blanketing the forest floor. If you bring your own boat or paddleboard, you can slide along the languid San Marcos River, or explore Palmetto’s small Oxbow Lake. Hiking trails lead through swampy marshes with light-green water filling the forest floor. If you’re not in a hurry, pitch a tent in the park’s ($12 a night) before heading to the beach.

Head south on Highway 183 to Mustang Island State Park, which separates Corpus Christi Bay from the Gulf of Mexico. The park protects five miles of Gulf-facing coastline, and has 50 drive-up where you can pitch a tent on the beach ($13 a night, first-come, first-served).

The beach is the obvious draw here. The Gulf is typically calm and warm, although some people are known to surf during hurricane swells. But the park also has more than 20 miles of marked paddling trails that traverse the western edge of the island, weave through islands in Corpus Christi Bay, and offer shallow water for fishing for redfish and speckled trout. runs daily guided trips (from $90 for two people) and rentals (from $50).

turtle heads out to sea at Padres Island National Seashore
At Padre Island National Seashore, a type of sea turtle known as Kemp’s Ridley returns from nesting to the water. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

If you need more beach (and who doesn’t?) scoot 15 miles down the coast to Padre Island National Seashore. If you have a 4WD vehicle, you can down-island for up to 60 miles until you leave the crowds behind. The national seashore is a hot spot for birding, with 380 different species reported, thanks to the island’s location on a major migration route. Look for the endangered piping plover or the super colorful painted bunting.

5. New Mexico

Taos to the Bisti Badlands

đź“Ť Distance: 275 miles
đźš— Duration: 3-5 days

Bisti/De-Na-Zen Wilderness Area
Hoodoo formations stand watch over De-Na-Zin Badlands, in the Bisti/De-Na-Zen Wilderness Area, New Mexico (Photo: Brad McGinley Photography/Getty)

I haven’t spent enough time in New Mexico. Or seen enough of it. The last time I was there, on a fly-fishing trip, I couldn’t bring myself to leave the Taos area. So many fish, so many green chili dishes. But I regret my solitary focus, because the state has much to offer. This particular road trip delivers a variety of adventure and landscapes that I’m convinced only New Mexico has.

The trip begins with a bang by rafting a tumultuous section of the Rio Grande, just 30 miles southwest of Taos. Different run options offer a variety of adventure, but the classic is a 17-mile portion through the Rio Grande Gorge, also dubbed the Taos Box because it is walled by black basalt cliffs. The trip brings a full day of whitewater action, with a six-mile section of non-stop class II and III rapids known as The Racecourse. If the weather is warm enough, you can swim in a few pools along the way, and good guides will point out petroglyphs on the rock walls. Book your trip with and you’ll get hot fajitas for a riverside lunch (from $110 per person).

Ojo Caliente resort, near Taos
Ojo Caliente, near Taos, is a hot-springs resort with pools of various sizes and temperatures nestled among cliffs and trees.Ěý(Photo: Courtesy Ojo Spa Resorts)

Spend the night at the wellness retreat of Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa, where the natural springs feature arsenic, Lithia, soda, and iron, all minerals thought to have healing properties (from $239 a night).

Keep heading southwest to , a super volcano that erupted 1.2 million years ago, creating a 14-mile-wide circular depression that has evolved into a lush basin full of creeks and meadows. Think of Valles Caldera as a mini Yellowstone, complete with hot springs, wildlife-viewing opportunities, and broad grasslands. A large elk population calls the caldera home (look for them in the meadows during early morning and evening), and keep an eye out as well for prairie dogs and coyotes. The Valle Grande Exploration Trail is a short, .8-mile walk through a prairie to a manmade pond that served as a watering hole when the area was a private cattle ranch. The South Mountain Trail is a bit more involved, taking you four miles up a narrow valley and to the top of South Mountain, where you’ll enjoy a view of the entire basin.

Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico, a stop along one of the best road trips in the southwest
The Frey Trail looks down upon the site of an ancient Tyuonyi village, at Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. The area was home to the Ancestral Puebloans. (Photo: Courtesy Sally King/NPS)

You’ll only be 20 miles west of Bandelier National Monument, which protects 33,000 acres of canyons and mesa that were the Ancestral Puebloans’ home until 1550. They used blocks of soft volcanic rock to build homes at the bases of cliffs, carving additional rooms into the walls themselves. Hike the 1.4-mile Pueblo Loop Trail to see some of these archeological sites first hand. You’ll even get to climb ladders into some of the rooms carved into the side of cliffs. Grab a campsite at the monument’s ($20 a night, reserve up to six months in advance).

It’ll add some mileage, but you need to cap this road trip off with a walk on the moon, or at least, as close as most of us will ever come to walking on the moon. The , in northwestern New Mexico, are loaded with some of the strangest rock formations you will ever see, with cap stones and some massive cliffs actually in the shapes of manta rays, all rising from rolling taupe shale hills. The Bisti Badlands are part of the BLM’s 60-square-mile Bisti/De-Na-Zen Wilderness Area, which has no formal trails or paved roads. The De-Na-Zin parking area, off county road 7500, will give you access to the dry Bisti Wash, which you can hike into the heart of the badlands to see all of the weirdness for yourself.

6. Arizona

Grand Canyon to Monument Valley

đź“Ť Distance: 250
đźš— Duration: 3-5 days

grand canyon vista along one of the best road trips in the southwest
Don’t miss the Grand Canyon on your southwest roadtrip. It’s so big, it’s one of the few visible landforms on earth from outer space. (Photo: Courtesy Ecoflight)

I spent most of my youth believing Arizona was a desert wasteland, but in recent years I’ve had the chance to turn that around with some of the state’s wonderful signature adventures. Yes, much of Arizona is desert, but it is no wasteland. It’s a vibrant landscape full of life and adventure. I’ve driven ATVs across the desert, biked lonely gravel roads near the border of Mexico, and ridden a mountain bike into a cactus on the outskirts of Scottsdale. In short, I love Arizona, and as much fun as I’ve had in that state, I still have so much to discover. The following road trip meanders through Northern Arizona, beginning in Grand Canyon and connecting a few waypoints that I still need to tick off my bucket list.

You could argue that all adventure trips in Arizona need to feature Grand Canyon National Park, and I wouldn’t disagree, so we’re hitting that 6,000-foot-deep ditch first. Also, Grand Canyon Village is just 1.5 hours from Flagstaff, so it’s a logical first stop. Is the Grand Canyon crowded? Yes. But the vast majority of visitors stick to a few scenic overlooks. The last time I was at the South Rim, I lost the crowds after hiking about a mile on the . But you’re going to do a lot of hiking on this road trip, so consider biking The Hermit Road, which hugs the south rim of the canyon for seven miles from the village, offering copious views along the way. The best part? It’s closed to private vehicles from March through November. rents cruisers (from $30).

Grand Canyon viewpoint
Everyone must see the Grand Canyon at least once in their lives. It’s truly breathtaking. (Photo: Courtesy Delaware North Parks and Resorts)

Try to get a room at , an iconic national park lodge if there ever was one (from $391 starting in March). Or snag a coveted site at , which is first-come, first- served.

Heading north for 130 miles, you’ll hit the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, a 280,000-acre geological wonder of buttes, canyons, and cliffs that tends to get overshadowed by its grand neighbor. Still, you may have seen photos of the swirling pink and tan sandstone layers of rock in the Coyote Buttes known as The Wave. It’s a stunning scenic reward that requires a tough hike through the desert. Accessing the Coyote Buttes requires a ($6). Grab one four months in advance, or try your luck with the daily lottery.

river canyon at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, worth a stop along one of the best road trips in the southwest
Hiking through passageways at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, Arizona (Photo: Courtesy Bob Wick/BLM)

If you can’t score a permit, try hiking the 1.2-mile out-and-back through White Pocket. There are no marked or maintained trails in the monument, but cairns will guide you through more wavy sandstone features. Wherever you hike, look towards the sky for the endangered California Condor, which are hatched and released in the monument each year. And bring (or rent) a 4WD vehicle, as there are no paved roads inside the monument. Grab a site at the BLM’s , which views a cluster of sand-white buttes ($12 per site, first come/first serve).

Roughly 100 miles east, near the border of Utah, sits the 91,696-acre , a broad valley where 1,000-foot-tall sandstone towers rise abruptly from the earth. You can see some of the most iconic features, the Mitten Buttes and Merrick Butte, from the visitor center, but you’ll want to hike the Wildcat Trail, a four-mile loop that wraps around the West and East Mitten Buttes. It’s the only self-guided trail open within the park, so to explore any more requires hiring a local Navajo guide with . A number of operators run auto tours of the 17-mile scenic loop road within the park, but consider booking a stargazing tour, also with Monument Valley Tribal Tours, that focuses on nighttime photography, framing the buttes within the context of the Milky Way and surrounding stars (from $95).

7. California

So Cal Coast to Mojave Desert

đź“Ť Distance: 300 miles
đźš— Duration: 4-5 days

young girls learning to surf manage a high five
High fives and a whole lot of fun at a kids’ surf camp off San Onofre State Beach, Southern California (Photo: Courtesy Endless Summer)

Because this is a collection of road trips through the Southwest, I’m focusing on Southern California, as the terrain in the area is more complementary to the Southwest vibe than, say, that of California’s Redwood National Park or Yosemite Valley.

This trip starts on the coast and ends with the dunes in the Mojave Desert, so there’s plenty of sand along the way, as well as big rocks, desert camping, and hiking. Keep the L.A. fires in mind when you’re traveling to Southern California. Hopefully the worst of that fire will be in the rearview by the time you make this trip, and while this route steers clear of the burn areas, the disaster has impacted residents throughout the region. Be considerate.

California’s coast is loaded with state parks, but San Onofre State Beach has a rugged character that’s hard to match, with cliffs rising directly from the beach and whales and dolphins often spotted in the water. If you fancy yourself a worthy surfer, you can paddle into the lineup at the world-famous Trestles break on the north end of the park, which has been ground zero for Southern California’s surfing culture since the 1940s. The park offers beginner breaks, too. In fact, San Onofre has one of the more gentle waves in Southern California. offers beginner lessons at the San Onofre Bluffs Beach, which is flanked by 100-foot cliffs (from $100 per person).

adult surf class at San Onofre Bluffs Beach, a worthy stop along one of the best road trips in the southwest
San Onofre State Beach in Southern California may have the fearsome Trestles break, but it also has gentle waves suitable for beginners. Here, participants gather for an adult surf camp at the San Onofre Bluffs Beach. (Photo: Courtesy Endless Summer)

Try to score a site at the (reserve up to six months in advance, starting at $45 a night) or San Mateo Camp, a couple of miles inland.

Leave the beach and head east, making a pit stop at the sleeper destination Anza-Borrego Desert State Wilderness, an often overlooked member of California’s crowded public-lands portfolio. The park is packed with palm oases, slot canyons, and after a wet winter, fields of wildflowers. Stretch your legs on the , a three-mile out and back that begins near the park’s visitor center and climbs up a canyon, ending at an overlook of a palm oasis (currently recovering from a previous wildfire) with a seasonal waterfall.

Arch Rock, Joshua Tree
A moderate, two-mile loop takes you to the breathtaking sight of Arch Rock. You can also fork detour out to take in Heart Rock along the way. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Continuing east for 60 miles, and you’ll wrap around the Salton Sea to hit Joshua Tree National Park’s southern entrance (if you’re tired or showing up late, look for free campsites on BLM land between I-10 and the park’s entrance). Spring is a great time to visit the park, as the temperatures are manageable, and the local cacti and Joshua Trees for which the park is named could still be sprouting flowers. Lace up your hiking boots and hit the trails. The easy 1.4-mile is a no-brainer loop that delivers you to a natural arch, with plenty of opportunity to scramble on sandstone boulders along the way. For a bird’s-eye view of the park, climb the 5,456-foot Ryan Mountain via its and for a vista stretching clear to the 11,000-foot San Gorgonio Mountain. I tried running to the top of Ryan Mountain the last time I was in the park, but the 1,000-foot elevation gain got the better of me.

Aside from the BLM land near the south entrance, the park has six with sites you can reserve up to six months in advance. They’re all good.

Still want more desert? Great, because you’re heading 70 miles north of Joshua Tree into the heart of the Mojave National Preserve, 1.6 million acres of dunes, cliffs, and cactus that somehow only gets half a million visitors a year. You have to hike the , a 45-square-mile expanse that will have you thinking you’re in the Sahara. The popular three-mile Kelso Dunes Trail will take you to the top of the tallest mound, which rises 650 feet.

Also, the easy, mile-long Lava Tube Trail provides access to an actual lava tube, where the sun pours in through a “sky light” in the stone. Wherever you explore, keep an eye out for the desert tortoise, a threatened species that lives in the Mojave’s valleys and moves slowly through the heat. The preserve has three developed campgrounds. Try to reserve a spot at , which has potable water ($25 per night).

Graham Averill is şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine’s national-parks columnist. He’s been in love with road trips since he read Jack Kerouac’s On the Road at age 17. His longest road trip to date was a month-long romp through the Southwest with his wife and twin then four-year-olds. Recently, he wrote about bucket-list golf courses, the best hikes in Joshua Tree National Park, and the nine national parks that will need timed-entry reservations this year. One of the weirdest places he’s ever slept for a story was a renovated lookout tower in the middle of the ocean.

graham averill, chilling on his tailgate after a long hike in joshua tree national park
The author after a long, hot hike in Joshua Tree (Photo: Graham Averill)

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These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break /adventure-travel/national-parks/national-parks-spring-break/ Tue, 04 Feb 2025 10:30:10 +0000 /?p=2694564 These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break

I found big adventure and warm weather in these national-park units spread across the Southeast and Southwest

The post These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

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These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break

Planning spring break is high pressure. You only get a one-week respite from school or work, and the timing, late March or early April, makes it tough to find a location with consistently good weather. Those months could offer spring ski conditions or prime surf weather—or not.

More than a few times, I’ve had to pivot at the last minute, having thought it would be warm enough for family surfing on the Outer Banks for spring break and then found temperatures in the low 50s. We moved our vacation further south.

Yes, south is the operative word. So relax, because I’ve found seven national-park units in the Southeast and Southwest that offer gorgeous landscapes, many days’ worth of adventures, and just-about-guaranteed warm weather for the perfect spring break trip.

1. Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia

Best for: Swimming, Camping, and Contemplating History

Average Temperatures in March and April: Highs from mid 70s to mid 80s

seashells and empty beaches at Cumberland Island National Seashore
A bounty of seashells on Cumberland Island National Seashore, a barrier island shrouded in history (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Cumberland Island is wild. The largest barrier island off the coast of Georgia, Cumberland is a 17-mile-long, 36,000-acre swath of pristine beaches, tall dunes, maritime forests, fresh lakes, and marshy canals. Even though the Carnegie family once owned the island, and descendants still have some private property, Cumberland protects almost 10,000 acres of federally designated wilderness. The only way to reach the island is by a 45-minute ($20 one way) or private boat, and once you’re there the only way to get around is by foot or bike on hiking trails and 50 miles of sandy roads.

dirt road Cumberland Island National Seashore
No joke that this place is wild. This dirt road in the maritime forest of Cumberland Island is the main drive, and otherwise you travel on foot or bike.Ěý(Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The island has no stores, so bring everything you’ll need, and be prepared to pack it all back out. You’ll see some ruins from a Victorian-era mansion built in 1884 as a winter home for Thomas Carnegie, as well as the remnants of a freedmen’s community of former slaves. You may spot members of the colony of feral horses that still roam the island, which are likely descendants of the horses brought over by the British during the War of 1812.

As for beaches, Cumberland offers 15 miles of undeveloped sand and dunes facing the Atlantic. For solitude, keep heading north away from the docks until you reach a patch of sand that’s too far for day-trippers to claim. It’s tough to find this much raw beach on the East Coast, so soak it in. The Atlantic is rough, but fine for swimming. Stay out of the marshes on the west side of the island, as they’re popular hangouts for alligators.

Where to Stay: is an all-inclusive hotel operating in one of the Carnegies’ former vacation homes (from $895 a night), but most visitors . Sea Camp has bathrooms and showers and allows fires (from $22 a night). Stafford Beach is more remote, requiring a three-mile hike from the docks, and it, too, has bathrooms with showers (from $12 a night). Book your spot early, up to six months in advance.

2. Big Bend National Park, Texas

Best for: Hiking, Biking, Climbing, Canoeing, Stargazing

Average Temperatures in March and April: Low to high 70s

Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National Park
A summer shower passes through the Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National Park, Texas. These mountains are considered the heart of the park, with many of the best hikes in the region, particularly in summer when the high elevation offers cool temps. (Photo: Gary Nored/AnEyeForTexas)

The 800,000-acre Big Bend National Park has been a spring-break destination for decades. My mother-in-law still talks fondly about spending college spring breaks camping there during the 1960s.

Late March and early April are the busiest times to visit the park. But “crowded” is a relative term; I hit the place a few years ago at the end of March and never felt overwhelmed or discouraged by other visitors, mainly because the park and its neighboring Big Bend Ranch State Park are so large. I hiked, rode my bike, camped, and enjoyed the “Far West Texas” vibe of it all.

The Big Bend landscape is straight out of a Western, with its vistas of canyons, the towering Chisos Mountains, and big stretches of rocky desert. It’s a great place to explore by boot, bike, or boat, an ideal multi-sport national-park trip.

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Hikers should tackle the 5.5-mile out and back Window Trail, which descends 1,000 feet from the Chisos Trailhead, at 5,400 feet elevation, through Oak Creek Canyon to a sheer drop-off framed by towering cliffs. Be prepared (and take water) for the steady climb back to the trailhead. Depending on recent storms, there could be a small stream in the center of the canyon, but the trail is still navigable. Subject to changes in the water level, you can paddle a 20-mile section of the Rio Grande through Santa Elena Canyon, which narrows to 100 feet wide, with limestone cliffs blotting out the sun. The area has been in a drought for the last couple of years, so spring trips aren’t guaranteed, but check with for water levels and trip options (from $160 per person).

 

 

 

Rio Grande Angell Expeditions video by Taylor Reilly

Just outside the national park is , with its bounty of mountain biking, where you can pedal to a backcountry oasis and through a slope filled with sparkling gemstones. Regardless of what you do, at the end of the day you must soak in the historic hot springs that are carved out of the Rio Grande.

octillo plant in Big Bend area
Octillo blazes red in fall in Big Bend Ranch State Park, Big Bend area, Texas (Photo: Gary Nored/AnEyeForTexas)

Where to Stay: Chisos Mountain Lodge inside the park has 72 rooms, a restaurant, and a general store (from $170 a night). has 60 sites up almost a mile high in elevation; make reservations up to six months in advance ($16 a night).

3. Death Valley National Park, California

Best for Cycling, Hiking, Stargazing

Average Temps in March and April: Highs from 65 to 75

lake in Death Valley National Park
In Death Valley National Park, rains can create ephemeral lakes on the salt flats. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

It would be borderline crazy to visit Death Valley National Park in the summertime, but in early spring, the temperatures are chef’s-kiss perfect. Visitors in spring may also have the huge bonus of seeing the wildflowers pop off, particularly in the lower elevations, in fields of desert gold, poppies, and verbena. If you’re really into hitting the park during peak flower power, watch the rangers’ on which wildflowers are blooming throughout spring and summer.

Also cool: the park is home to one of the world’s rarest fish, the Devils Hole pupfish, an endangered species found only in a water cavern in Devils Hole here. The pupfish are visible during the annual spring migration as they move within the hole seeking warmth from direct sunlight. Scientists counted 191 of them last April, the highest count in 25 years.

You don’t need to be a cyclist to enjoy Death Valley—there are plenty of hiking trails—but two wheels is a hell of a way to explore this landscape, with 785 miles of roads open to bikes. Cruise through otherworldly terrain like salt flats, expansive sand dunes, and red-rock formations, before climbing into mountains of up to 11,000 feet.

starry skies at Death Valley National Park
Death Valley National Park is an International Dark Sky Park. Come see the skies. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Artist’s Drive, a paved nine-mile one-way loop, is the park’s signature ride. It climbs from below sea level to 880 feet above it, offering views of the surrounding moon-like white sands and mountains on the horizon. At the crest, you’ll be surrounded by pink and tan hills, which narrow to canyon-like proportions on the fun downhill to finish the loop. To give you a sense of the terrain, parts of the Star Wars franchise were filmed off this road.

Where to Stay: If you’re looking for nice digs, will put you in the heart of the action, and with a pool (from $507 a night). is the best developed campground in the park, with 136 sites on the valley floor and mountain views. Book up to six months in advance (from $30 a night).

4. White Sands National Park, New Mexico

Best for Hiking and Sand Sledding

Average Temperatures in March and April: 70 to 80

Sand dunes at sunrise, White Sands National Park
Sunrise highlights the white sand dunes and far San Andres Mountains at White Sands National Park, New Mexico, established as a national monument in 1933 and receiving the further designation only in 2019. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

One of the newest national parks (established in 2019), White Sands isn’t huge, just 175,000 acres, but it protects half of the world’s largest gypsum-crystal field. The dunes roll through the Tularosa Basin like bright white waves, creating a landscape unlike anything else on this planet. You can see the San Andres Mountains on the horizon beyond the park, but it’s the sloping dunes that will mesmerize you.

father and daughter sled on Great Sand Dunes
If you walk up, you will be able to sled down. A father and daughter will remember the slide at Great Sand Dunes National Park, New Mexico. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The eight-mile Dunes Drive scenic road delivers you into the center of the dunes from the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle, and the road also accesses the park’s five different hiking trails. The Dune Life Nature Trail is an easy one-mile loop that serves as a good intro to the landscape. But if you really want to dig into the dunes, hike the five-mile , which traces the edge of an ancient lake that has been replaced by the waves of dunes. You’ll climb and descend 60-foot sandy mounds throughout.

full moon night concert
Full-moon night concert, White Sands National Park, New Mexico (Photo: NPS)

If you can time it right, hit the park on a , when White Sands is open into the night, and ranger-led programs include guided hikes. And definitely bring a sled (or buy one in the park gift shop). The dunes at the are open to sledding, and the gypsum hills behave exactly like snow slopes.

Where to Stay: There is currently no camping inside the park: its backcountry campsites are closed for rehabilitation, with no timeline as to when they will be in service. The town of Alamogordo, 15 miles east of the park, has a variety of chain hotels.

 

 

5. Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida and Mississippi

Best for Island Hopping, Swimming, Surfing, Fishing, Birdwatching

Average Temperatures in March and April: Low to mid 70s

white sand dunes and sunset sky at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida
White quartz sand dunes glow in the light of sunset along the Gulf of Mexico at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Santa Rosa County, Florida. With clear water and bright sand, the beach is excellent for swimming and fishing. (Photo: Marica van der Meer/Arterra/Universal Images Group/Getty)

A lot of people have discovered the Gulf Islands National Seashore. In 2023, visitation jumped 40 percent, from 5.7 million to 8.2 million people, making this unit the fifth-most-visited in the park service. People are showing up for the white-sand beaches on the mainland and for barrier islands that you can only reach by boat. The national seashore is made up of a series of parks, beaches, and islands, split between Florida and Mississippi, and all surrounded by clear, aqua-blue waters that are home to gopher tortoises, bottlenose dolphins, starfish, crabs…and the 300 species of birds that migrate through the area.

The easiest island to reach is Ship, 12 miles off the coast and accessible by regular from Gulfport and Biloxi ($44 per person, round trip). Once you’re on the island, you can explore the historic fort, lounge on the beaches, or swim in the Gulf. The recreation area is fully developed with concessions and restrooms, so it’s a convenient getaway.

woman paddleboarding, Gulf Islands National Seashore
Liz Averill goes paddleboarding in the waters of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Visitors also canoe, kayak, fish, and camp. (Photo: Graham Averill)

If you’re looking for something wilder, consider venturing to , an eight-mile-long barrier island protected as a federally designated Wilderness area, so there are no commercial ferries to the island and no facilities on the ground. But if you have your own boat or want to hire a charter (from $675 at ), you’ll find an island ringed with sugar-white sand beaches and grassy dunes, while pine trees and lagoons pack the interior. Mind the occasional alligator.

pelican flies over Opal Beach, Gulf Island National Seashore
A brown pelican rides the air currents above Opal Beach, Gulf Island National Seashore, Navarre, Florida. The national seashore is known for its birdwatching. (Photo: Courtesy Owens/NPS)

Where to Stay: The campground, on the mainland near the town of Ocean Springs, sits inside a maritime forest, with marshes and fishing docks ($25 a night, book six months in advance). You’re also allowed to on the beach on a few of the barrier islands (Petit Bois, West Petit Bois, and Horn Island) inside the park, but stay off the dunes and any vegetation, don’t bring any mechanical devices (ie, no coolers with wheels), and be prepared for a true wilderness experience, as there are no facilities.

6. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah and Arizona

Best for Boating, Swimming, Hiking

Average Temperatures in March and April: Highs from 60 to 69

smiling woman and friends packrafting in Glen Canyon
Lizzy Scully, left, packrafting guide, smiles while balancing, yes, a bike on her boat on a trip in Glen Canyon. On the right is Steve “Doom” Fassbinder. The two own Four Corners Guides, a multi-sport outfit based in Mancos, Colorado. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Glen Canyon protects the incredible 1.25 million acres of land and water where the Colorado River pours into Lake Powell. The blue water of the lake contrasts sharply with the red and pink sandstone walls that rise directly from the edge, and the lake has countless fingers and canyons to explore by boat.

The water levels of Powell are constantly shifting, and have generally been in decline the last 20 years. Check the park site’s to make sure the boat ramp or launch you have in mind is operational. The lake was low when I visited a few years ago on a biking and paddle trip, and we had to contend with some mud on the banks, but the place was no less stunning.

The Antelope Point ramp typically has the least boat traffic, so it’s conducive to use of kayaks or canoes. From there, you can head south on the lake for a mile and paddle into Antelope Canyon, a narrow slot canyon that’s also a no-wake (no motorboating) zone. Under normal water levels, you can follow the creek upstream for about a mile. offers rental kayaks (from $75 a day). You can also launch directly from the beaches at Lone Rock Beach and Stanton Creek and explore the lake surrounding those alcoves.

Camping on the banks of Glen Canyon
Cheers! Pretty hard to beat camp beers in Glen Canyon, Utah. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Off the water, an easy 1.25-mile hike leads to one of the overlooks at , where the Colorado River takes a drastic turn around a massive sandstone escarpment.

Where to Stay: All inside the recreation area are first-come, first-served. Lees Ferry Campground has 54 sites, potable water, and restrooms ($26 a night). Lone Rock Beach has primitive sites on a sandy beach right next to the water ($14 per night).

7. Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument, Arizona

Best for Overlanding, Hiking, and Seeking Solitude

Average Temperatures in March and April: High 50s to mid 60s

river canyon of Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument
Established in 2000, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument is operated by the National Park Service and Bureau of Land Management. Once the land of the Southern Paiute and other groups, it contains burial sites, art panels, and other troves, also old mining and homestead sites and ruins. It offers solitude, camping, hiking, and dark skies. (Photo: Courtesy R. Seely/NPS)

The Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument is primitive. This Northern Arizona park has no facilities, no campgrounds, and no paved roads. Instead, visitors are treated to the sights of 1 million acres of expansive plateaus, rugged canyons, and Mojave Desert, all traversed by a series of unimproved dirt roads and hiking trails. In other words, this monument is ideal for self-contained overlanding. I spent three days cruising Grand Canyon-Parashant in a side-by-side with a rooftop tent, while hiking and biking at various spots throughout, and was as mesmerized by the solitude as the grandeur of the landscape.

overlanders camp at Grand Canyon Parashant
Overlanders converge at Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument, which is stacked with backcountry dirt roads and scenic viewpoints. (Photo: Graham Averill)

If you have a high-clearance 4WD vehicle, the monument is yours to explore. The park service details an 80-mile adventure to that cruises through a variety of terrain, from cattle fields to ponderosa forests, and ends on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. If you choose this route, you’ll also have the chance to get out and stretch your legs on the Burnt Canyon Trail, an easy three-mile out-and-back on a grassy road bed that leads to a big view of the western edge of the Grand Canyon. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mount Charleston, just outside of Las Vegas.

I took a roundabout, multi-day route to reach , with its long view into the Canyon, and an optional side hike down to the water. The last seven miles to Whitmore Point drop 1,500 feet over rocky, rutted terrain that was super fun to bomb on a mountain bike. The fastest way to this perch is a 50-mile traverse from Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse.

Where to Stay: Primitive camping is allowed throughout the monument, but if you’re looking for a bit of refinement in the midst of all this rugged adventure, the has hotel rooms and covered wagons on an inholding close to the northern rim of the Grand Canyon. It’s only accessible by a 70-mile dirt-road drive through the national monument or an airplane (the place has its own landing strip), but once you’re there, you’ll be able to refuel your vehicle and have a damn fine dinner (starting at $172 a night).

Graham Averill is şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine’s national-parks columnist. Every year, he agonizes over how to maximize his kids’ spring break, dragging them to campsites in Florida, beaches in South Carolina, and lakes all over the Southeast. He recently wrote about hiking in Joshua Tree National Park and his absolute favorite mountain town on the East Coast. His latest article is all about visiting national parks for free.

Graham Averill, author
Graham Averill on-site at Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

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You Deserve Your Vacation. What if It Also Made You Live Longer? /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-wellness-retreats-north-america/ Mon, 13 Jan 2025 10:30:03 +0000 /?p=2693311 You Deserve Your Vacation. What if It Also Made You Live Longer?

From a desert hot-springs lodge to an island farm stay, these getaways across North America double as longevity retreats.

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You Deserve Your Vacation. What if It Also Made You Live Longer?

Traveling itself is believed to help boost longevity, but what if your next getaway had even more long-term benefits?

Picture a reboot that’s good for you. We’re not talking about rigid health camps—we all deserve to enjoy our hard-earned vacations, after all—but rather, trips to beautiful places where mindfulness, wellness, community, and longevity are top priorities.

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Wellness travel is booming. Between 2020 and 2022, wellness trips grew by 30 percent annually, according to research by the Global Wellness Institute, which also reported that in 2022, 819.4 billion wellness trips were taken in the U.S. and internationally, making up about 7.8 percent of all tourism.

Clearly, these types of vacations are resonating, with good reason. These are my 10 favorite wellness trips in North America.

1. Soak in Natural Hot Springs

Ojo Caliente in New Mexico

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa
The historic adobe buildings sit amidst hiking and biking trails, some along the banks of the Rio Ojo Caliente. (Photo: Courtesy Ojo Spa Resorts)

Soaking in natural hot springs makes for easy relaxation and rejuvenation. Mineral baths have been shown to reduce stress, lessen joint pain, improve circulation, and naturally detoxify. At , a spa resort in northern New Mexico, you can soak in any of nine communal pools (with minerals like lithia and iron), which include a mud bath and a silent pool, or book a private tub. Access to the steam room and sauna come with your stay, and you can add on yoga classes or spa treatments like sound healing or anti-inflammatory massage.

Dating back to 1868 and located amid desert cliffs near the banks of the cottonwood-lined Rio Ojo Caliente, the place is one of the country’s oldest health resorts, and open for both overnight and day use. Lodging options include adobe suites with hammocks on the patios or restored vintage trailers. (Day passes for the pools start at $45; rooms from $239 a night.)

Ěý2. Check Into a Wellness Resort

YO1 in Monticello, New York

YO1, New York
Aerial shot of YO1, in the Catskills, New York (Photo: Courtesy YO1)

You’ll get personalized treatments and a custom therapeutic plan when you book at , an Ayurvedic longevity resort that opened in the Catskills in 2018 with a focus on Eastern medicine and holistic therapies. This place is for dedicated self-care travelers looking for a total reboot, a concentrated wellness plan, or programs designed to treat specific issues like stress, depression, diabetes, infertility, or insomnia. Visit for the day or stay for a week.

yoga at YO1
Yoga practice in an airy space at YO1 (Photo: Courtesy YO1)

Not sure where to start? Try the three-night wellness program, which includes individual consultations, mud baths, and acupuncture. You’ll stay at a 131-room lodge overlooking Baileys Lake on a 1,300-acre property in pine forests and surrounded by hiking and biking trails—all just two hours from New York City. Access to an infrared sauna, hot tub, group meditation, a reflexology walkway, fitness room, and Olympic-sized swimming pool are included. (Day pass, which includes meals and all-day programming, for $500; overnight accommodations start at $185.)

3. Stay In a Communal şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Lodge

Campfire Ranch Little Sugar in Bella Vista, Arkansas

Campfire Ranch Little Sugar, Bella Vista, Arkansas, is surrounded by forest
The Campfire Ranch Little Sugar, Bella Vista, Arkansas, is slated to open this spring. (Photo: Garrett Hubbard)

If community is what you’re after, consider , a new adventure lodge opening in or around May 2025 with out-the-door access to 40 miles of world-class mountain-bike trails surrounding Bentonville, Arkansas, with singletrack loops over rolling hills and through stands of redbud, dogwood, and mulberry trees. The eight-room lodge comes with access to a communal fire pit, outdoor cooking space, gear storage, bike-wash stations, and breakfast service. Campfire Ranch’s adventure concierge can help plan your outings and connect you with local bike rentals and guides. Rent a single room or, if you’re with a group, book out the whole place. (Rates from $250.)

mountain biking by a cliff in Bella Vista, near Bentonville, Arkansas
Biking in the area surrounding Campfire Ranch in Bella Vista, 10 miles from the bike hub of Bentonville, Arkansas (Photo: Garrett Hubbard)

4. Run In Another Country

Aire Libre in Mexico City

Runners pass through a green park in Mexico City
Runners in an Aire Libre retreat cover ground across the arts-rich and leafy Mexico City. (Photo: JesĂşs Ricardo Guadarrama MejĂ­a)

, cofounded by Mauricio Díaz, a world-class ultrarunner from Mexico, specializes in transformational running and hiking retreats all over the world, from Costa Rica to Japan. These retreats focus on the intersection of movement, mindfulness, culture, and sustainability, enabling participants to connect with themselves and the landscapes and cultures they’re exploring.

The company’s ($1,800, including meals, lodging, and guiding) is a four-day running adventure where you’ll jog through Mexico City along the gravel trails of Viveros de Coyoacán park and the plazas of the National Autonomous University of Mexico campus. You’ll also leave the city to run trails across the volcanic landscape of the Continental Divide, then experience a guided indigenous temazcal ceremony in a sweat lodge. By night, enjoy communal meals and lodging in boutique hotels.

Ěý5. Spend Four Days Doing Yoga

Esalen in Big Sur, California

Esalen Institute as shown along the Big Sur coast
Esalen, in oceanside Big Sur, California, is a nonprofit formed to explore consciousness in a beautiful setting that is also near outstanding recreational sites. (Photo: Kodiak Greenwood)

Even if you’re not a dedicated yogi or a holistic-retreat kind of person, you’ll love being on the jagged cliffs of Big Sur at , a nonprofit retreat center and educational institute with a heavy yoga focus. You can do a self-guided exploration (read: stay on your own with limited formal instruction) or sign up for the center’s two- or four-night workshops on topics like hypnotherapy, storytelling, or astrology. This is the kind of place where your cell phone doesn’t work, so you might as well stash it away and focus on movement, nature, and real-life connection.

baths and hot springs at Esalen Institute above Pacific
Water on water: Esalen offers transformative education, yoga, and hot springs above the Pacific Ocean. (Photo: Kodiak Greenwood)

When you’re not learning about your conscious intentions, you can hike the trails within Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park amid 300-foot redwood trees, oak, and chaparral, and see an 80-foot waterfall plummet into the sea. You can also wander the beaches of Big Sur, or bathe in Esalen’s famously clothing-optional hot springs above the roiling Pacific Ocean. Accommodations range from bunks in communal rooms to private yurts overlooking the Pacific. (Rates from around $950 for multi-day workshops, including lodging, meals, and programming. Scholarships available.)

6. Sit in a Sweat Lodge Under a Full Moon

The Horse Shoe Farm in Hendersonville, North Carolina

Horseshoe Farm, North Carolina
A trip to the Horse Shoe Farm, near Asheville, North Carolina, can be a broad-based wellness and recreational foray. (Photo: Courtesy Horseshoe Farm)

You could come to the to stay in a well-appointed cottage and eat farm-to-table meals with ingredients sourced on site. Or you could make a trip here into a more broad-based wellness excursion. Just under 40 minutes from Asheville and situated between the verdant Blue Ridge Mountains and the Great Smoky Mountains with a view of Mount Pisgah, this health sanctuary has five energy vortexes (places believed to be centers of energy currents with spiritual effects), holistic spa treatments, an outdoor labyrinth for walking meditation, and a meditation tower.

looking out from inside the meditation tower at the Horse Shoe Farm
Windows and words as seen from within the meditation tower at the Horse Shoe Farm (Photo: Courtesy Horseshoe Farm)

The resort recently partnered with, a Cherokee wisdom keeper and ceremonialist from the Qualla Indian Boundary in the Great Smoky Mountains, to build a sweat lodge on the 85-acre property, where he hosts ceremonies on each full and new moon. Overnight accommodations include one-room lofts or three-bedroom homes, depending on your group size. (Rates from $399.)

Ěý7. Go Forest Bathing

Southall Farm and Inn in Franklin, Tennessee

mists over lake and lodge at Southall Farm and Inn, in Franklin, Tennessee
Southall Farm and Inn, in Franklin, Tennessee, is a mindfulness center and a working farm. (Photo: Patrik Argast/Argast Photography)

Not all spas are created equal. ’s spa goes above and beyond, incorporating botanical ingredients and mindfulness in sessions like energy healing and detoxifying treatments to develop a deeper connection to self and nature. This working farm on a 425-acre plot in Tennessee has a 62-room lodge plus 16 private cottages that opened for guests in 2022. You can add treatments like sound-bath meditation, forest bathing, or a wellness consultation, depending on what you’re looking for. More than seven miles of hiking and biking trails surround the farm, and there’s canoeing and fishing on the private Lake at Southall. Or take guided tours of the orchard and apiaries that are home to some 8 million bees. (Rates from $695.)

8. Build Something With Your Hands

Yestermorrow in Waitsfield, Vermont

Yestermorrow, Waitsfield, Vermont
Yestermorrow, in Waitsfield, Vermont, is a green design-and-build school in the Mad River Valley of the Green Mountains, Vermont. (Photo: Drew Vetere)

This place isn’t a spa resort in the standard sense, but for people who find learning new skills and using their hands to build things are perfect ways to unlock a deep sense of fulfillment. is a green design-and-build school in Vermont’s Mad River Valley, with a small campus offering day classes and overnight lodging in the Green Mountain National Forest with its lakes and mountain hikes. You can take courses on building a coffee table, sustainable treehouse design, harvesting your own lumber, or basic carpentry. Classes last from two days to two weeks (with certification programs that go longer). Healthy-meal plans plus lodging—dorms, cabins, or camping—can be added to your tuition. (Lodging from $10 to $55 a night; courses from $260, scholarships and sliding-scale tuition available.)

woman builds tiny house at Yestermorrow
Building a tiny house at Yestermorrow, located in Waitsfield, in the heart of the Mad River Valley (Photo: Drew Vetere)

9. Surround Yourself with the Ocean

Pebble Cove Farm in Orcas Island, Washington

sunset at Pebble Cove
Pebble Cove is on Orcas Island, part of the San Juan Islands in upper Puget Sound, Washington. (Photo: Courtesy Pebble Cove)

Getting to is the first step: You’ll need to take a ferry to reach Orcas Island, part of the dreamy San Juan Islands in upper Puget Sound, 100 miles north of Seattle. Once you’re here, you’ll settle into a cozy cottage overlooking a quiet bay at this farm and animal sanctuary that hosts guests and offers wellness retreats. The inn rents out kayaks and paddleboards and has a garden and apple orchard you’re welcome to wander through. Rescued farm animals like horses, chickens, pigs, and goats, adopted from elsewhere, reside here. The garden and farm animals are closed off from November through April, but the cottages are open year-round. (Rates from $300.)

10. Ski With New Friends

The Ski Retreat in Palisades Tahoe, California; Sun Valley, Idaho; Breckenridge, Colorado

exuberant women at ski and snowboard retreat
Having some snow-sports fun at The Ski Retreat, held at different times in Palisades Tahoe, California; Sun Valley, Idaho; and Breckenridge, Colorado (Photo: Courtesy The Ski Retreat)

You want to spend a weekend playing outside in snow-covered mountains, but not to deal with figuring out logistics or finding a group of friends to go with. We get that. Enter , a women’s getaway in places like Lake Tahoe, Sun Valley, or Breckenridge for groups of six to 12. These trips, numbering five this winter, are about connection, friendship, relaxation, and play—without having to plan a thing. Your three-night retreat includes lodging at a slopeside cabin, morning yoga, gear demos, chef-prepared group dinners, fireside chats, art classes, and ski and snowboard adventures for a wide range of abilities. (Rates from $550 for local residents not including lodging; from $1,190, including lodging.)

Megan Michelson, an şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř contributing editor, lives in northern California. She’s hoping her occasional habits of drinking tea, practicing yoga, and sleeping 10 hours a night will lead to a long and healthy life. She recently wrote for us about buying a 1 Euro (yes, as in one dollar) home in Italy; how to travel to ski, hike, and bike in Jackson, Wyoming, on the cheap (hard to believe, but she knows of great deals); and why she and her family traded traditional Thanksgiving options for Campsgiving. Her list of great outdoor festivals extends into May 2025.

Megan Michelson, author, outdoors in northern California
Megan Michelson hopes that going places where your cell phone doesn’t work, like this remote river in the Trinity Alps Wilderness of northern California, will help lead to a longer life. (Photo: Megan Michelson Collection)

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Timed-Entry Reservations Return to Our National Parks This Year. Here’s the Scoop. /adventure-travel/national-parks/national-parks-reservations-2025/ Mon, 06 Jan 2025 10:00:08 +0000 /?p=2692072 Timed-Entry Reservations Return to Our National Parks This Year. Here's the Scoop.

Timed-entry reservations are back. Our national parks columnist reveals how to get into these popular parks.

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Timed-Entry Reservations Return to Our National Parks This Year. Here's the Scoop.

Our family trip to Maui was full of surfing, waterfall treks, and snorkeling with turtles. Catching the sunrise from the top of the 10,023-foot volcano in Haleakala National Park was supposed to be the crowning jewel. Some say it’s the greatest sunrise in the world. I wouldn’t know, though, because I forgot to make reservations two months in advance of the trip, and the only way you can see the sunrise from Haleakala is with a timed-entry permit.

These mandatory timed-entry reservations in national parks have become a hot topic the last few years. During the pandemic, when visitation to national parks soared, a few parks—starting with Arches in 2022—responded by implementing the reservation systems, which require all visitors to get permits for specific entry times during the busy season. Since then, other park units have implemented similar systems.

I recently spent a lot of time studying national-park visitor comments online, and the reservation system was the second-most frequent complaint. But you know what was the most frequent complaint among national-park visitors? Overcrowding in parks, which leads to traffic jams and a lack of parking, not to mention more pressure on the natural resources.

woman hiker enters Big Meadows, Shenandoah National Park
A hiker in the high-elevation Big Meadows, the largest open area in Shenandoah National Park and a magnet for hiking, camping, and stargazing. You do not need reservations to enter this national park, but do to hike up its signature peak, Old Rag. (Photo: Courtesy Delaware North)

The National Park System has implemented these systems as a direct response. If you’ve sat in near standstill traffic in Yosemite, or waited for your turn to take a photo in Glacier, then you know something has to be done to mitigate the crowds.

I’m notoriously bad at making reservations for dinner a week in advance, let alone for a vacation three months down the road, so I get user frustration with the new system. But until some bright mind comes up with a better way to handle millions of people wanting to hike to Bear Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park, I think we’re all going to have to get used to planning certain national park experiences well in advance.

Here’s a look at the nine national parks that will require advance reservations for entry or on certain popular hikes in 2025.

1. Glacier National Park

bighorn sheep, lake, Glacier National Park
A bighorn sheep, one of the abundant forms of wildlife in Glacier National Park. Mountain goats, bears, pikas, wolves, beavers, and elk also reside here.Ěý(Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Glacier National Park is bringing back last year’s timed-entry vehicle-reservation pilot project for the popular west side of Going-To-The-Sun Road and the North Fork area. The reservations will be required from June 13 to September 28, 2025, daily between 7 A.M. and 3 P.M.

Going-To-The-Sun Road, which is only open during the warm months, usually mid June through September, is a 50-mile-long paved byway that cuts through the center of the park, delivering visitors to the most popular trailheads. West Glacier, near Whitefish, is the western entrance of the road, and St. Mary Visitor Center is the gateway to the eastern edge of the park.

How to Get a Glacier National Park Reservation: You can make reservations starting on February 12 on on a rolling basis, 120 days in advance of desired visitation dates, starting at 8 A.M. MST. Any remaining vehicle reservations will be available at 7 P.M. MDT for next-day entry for dates throughout the season starting on June 12, 2025. Reservations require a $2 processing fee.

In 2025, visitors can still access the park at the East Entrance of Going-To-The-Sun Road without a reservation, but entry might be restricted at certain times without advance notice if the road becomes too congested. You can visit the beautiful Two Medicine Valley, also on the east side of the park and with its own entrance, without a reservation. If you lack a reservation and don’t want to trek 100 miles to the east side of the park, vehicles can drive Going-To-The-Sun Road from the western entrance as far as Apgar Village, which is two miles inside the park’s west entrance.

Backup Plan: If you have a reservation for lodging, camping, transportation, or a commercial activity, you can access the park within the intended service area of Going-To-The-Sun Road without making a timed-entry reservation as long as you can show proof of that booking.

If you don’t have a reservation, you can enter the park before 7 A.M. or after 3 P.M. Or take your chances and enter the park through the eastern entrance of Going-To-The-Sun Road, remembering that access might be restricted due to overcrowding on the road. Better yet, head to the east side of the park to Two Medicine Valley, which is full of trails leading to ice-blue backcountry lakes and towering peaks. The 9.6-mile hike to passes waterfalls and ends on the shore of the lake, which is flanked by the Continental Divide.

2. Arches National Park

Sandstone towers in the Park Avenue trail in Arches National Park, Utah
Park Avenue, lined by steep walls and spires, leads into the Courthouse Towers area, Arches National Park. (Photo: Debra Book Barrows)

Arches is bringing back its previous timed-entry reservation pilot program from 2022 to be used from April 1 to October 31, 2025, although this year you will not need reservations between July 7 and August 27. The program is a continuation of a reservation system that began as a direct response to Arches’ increased popularity; the park had seen a 73 percent rise in visitation from 2011 to 2021. Timed entry reservations will be required between 7 A.M. and 4 P.M. daily.

How to Get an Arches National Park Reservation: Reservations are released three months in advance in monthly blocks, so April reservations open on January 2, May reservations open February 1, June reservations open March 1, and so on. Tickets can be reserved at at 8 A.M. MST beginning January 2. Beginning March 31, additional next-day tickets will be released at 7 P.M. MST each evening. Cost for booking a reservation is $2. No tickets will be available at the park visitor center. Once you have a reservation, you’ll have a dedicated one-hour window to enter the park.

Backup Plan: You don’t need a reservation if you have camping, tour, or special-use permits.

You can also enter the park before 7 A.M. or after 4 P.M. without a reservation. Canyonlands National Park is only 27 miles southwest of Arches, and makes for a superb alternative if you can’t get inside Arches.

3. Rocky Mountain National Park

bridge glacier gorge trail
Crossing a bridge on the Glacier Gorge Trail, Rocky Mountain National Park (Photo: Courtesy Holiday Inn Estes Park)

Rocky Mountain National Park has a two-tiered reservation system that, frankly, has confused a lot of people in the past couple of years. Still, it proved effective for mitigating crowds, so the park is bringing it back for 2025. Reservations will be required beginning May 23 through Oct. 14 or Oct 20 depending on the specific reservation you get.

Two types of reservations are available: one is a permit for the Bear Lake Road Corridor, which will also include access to the rest of the park, with reservations required from 5 A.M to 6 P.M.. The other is a permit for what is known as “the rest of the park,” excluding this corridor, with reservations needed from 9 A.M. to 2 P.M. daily. Bear Lake Road reservations are required from May 23 to October 20, but “the rest of the park” reservations are only necessary from May 23 to October 14. Why the distinction? The Bear Lake Road area is the most popular section of the park thanks to its collection of picturesque lakes and relatively easy hikes.

How to Get a Rocky Mountain National Park Reservation: You can get reservations through one month in advance, so reservations for June (and the last week of May) will be released at 8 A.M. MST on May 1. Reservations for July will be released June 1 at 8 A.M. MST. The park will also hold 40 percent of the permits for next-day reservations, releasing those at 7 P.M. MST the night before. The only cost for a reservation is a $2 process fee. Visitors with a reservation will have a dedicated two-hour window to enter the park.

Back Up Plan: The Bear Lake corridor is awesome, and the deeper you go on the trails in that area, the better it gets. But Rocky Mountain is a big park, and with the “rest of the park” reservation window so narrow (9 A.M. to 2 P.M.) there’s plenty of time to enter the park before or after those hours and still experience the iconic landscape. Driving Trail Ridge Road, the highest paved road in the U.S., topping out at 12,183 feet, is memorable all on its own. But I say set your alarm for an early wake up so you can hit the park before 9 A.M. and head to the Long’s Peak Trailhead for the 8.4-mile hike to Chasm Lake, a calm pool at the base of Long’s Peak where you’ll see a picture perfect view of the mountain’s 1,000-foot granite walls.

4. Zion National Park

Zion National Park view of cliffs
The sandstone monoliths of the Temples and Towers of the Virgin, Zion National Park, rise 3,000 above the valley. (Photo: Courtesy Rebecca Alfafara/NPS)

You don’t need reservations to enter Zion National Park in 2025, but you will to hike to Angels Landing. The extremely popular hike leads to one of the most photogenic spots in the entire park: a narrow, rocky perch hovering 1,500 feet above the Virgin River. Reservations are required year round and released in a seasonal lottery beginning two months in advance of your intended hike. Next-day permits are also released, on the day before your intended hike.

How to Get a Reservation to Hike to Angels Landing: All reservations are released on . You’ll enter the lottery and pick seven ranked days and times when you want to tackle Angels Landing. You can register for up to six people in the lottery. If you win the lottery, permits are issued on the 25th of the month that you registered.

Lottery-permit applications are $6 and if you score a reservation, the cost is another $3 per hiker. The park also releases last-minute permits for next-day hikers. The lottery opens at 12 MST and closes at 3pm MST each day. The same fees apply. The confirmation email from recreation.gov serves as your permit.

Backup Plan: Getting a reservation is the only way you can hike to the end of Angels Landing, but no permit is necessary to hike the up to Scout Lookout, a 4.5-mile out and back that encompasses most of the same trail, missing only the final push along the knife-edge ridge to Angels Landing. But you’ll still get to hike along the Virgin River and through the breezy Refrigerator Canyon, and end with a great view of Zion Canyon from Scout Lookout.

5. Shenandoah National Park

mountaintop view, Shenandoah National Park
Skyland seen from Stony Man, Shenandoah National Park (Photo: Courtesy Delaware North)

No reservations are necessary to enter Shenandoah National Park, but you do need a permit to hike any of the several routes up the park’s signature peak, Old Rag, which is topped by a granite outcropping with a 360-degree view. After a two-year pilot program, Shenandoah National Park has made the Old Rag day-use permit system permanent. You’ll need a day-use ticket from March 1 to November 30. A limit of 800 permits are allotted each day.

How to Get a Permit to Hike Old Rag: Every member in your hiking party needs a permit. Tickets are $2, purchased at . Half of the tickets are released 30 days in advance on a rolling basis and the other half are open for grabs five days in advance. The permits are good from 12 A.M. to 11:59 P.M. of the date of your hike.

Backup Plan: Old Rag isn’t the only summit inside Shenandoah. The 3,514-foot Mary’s Rock, which requires no permit (only Old Rag does), is topped by a granite outcropping with a gorgeous view west into the pastoral Shenandoah Valley. You can reach the summit via a variety of trails, from an easy 1.5-mile out and back to an arduous that includes a slice of the Appalachian Trail. Ěý

6. Haleakala National Park

sunset at Haleakala National Park
The author and family lacked a reservation to catch the sunrise at the 10,023-foot volcano in Haleakala National Park on Maui, but sunset wasn’t bad. Either way, wear warm clothes. (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

You don’t need a reservation to enter Haleakala National Park, a 33,265-acre gem on the island of Maui, but if you want to see the sunrise from the summit of its central 10,023-foot active volcano, you’ll need to plan ahead and get a permit. Reservations are necessary to enter the Summit District of the park from 3 A.M. to 7 A.M. daily. The system has been in place since 2017 because catching the sunrise from the top of this volcano is supposedly a transcendent experience.

How to Get a Reservation to See the Sunrise on Haleakala: Reservations can be made on up to 60 days in advance of your desired day. All permits are released at 7 A.M. HST daily on a rolling basis. For those with less foresight, 50 permits are released 48 hours in advance on a rolling basis, but don’t count on scoring one: only 150 cars are allowed into the park during sunrise each day. You can only get one sunrise reservation per three-day period.Ěý

Backup Plan: I tried to get last-minute reservations for sunrise on my recent family trip to Maui but had no luck. Instead, we showed up for sunset. Was it as transcendent as a sunrise? I can’t compare the two, but it was gorgeous and we didn’t have to wake up at 2 A.M. to drive into the park. If you’re dead set on experiencing the sunrise but can’t get an advance reservation, consider booking a couple of nights in the Summit District’s Each booking comes with a sunrise permit. Snag a campsite up to 30 days in advance. Sites are $5 per night, with a three-night maximum.

Hiking the Summit District is a delight even if you can’t catch a sunrise. My family spent our time poking around easy trails, but the is an 11-mile point-to-point that drops through the volcano’s crater, traveling through rust-red and black lava rock terrain that many describe as otherworldly.

7. Yosemite National Park

woman kayaking in Yosemite National Park, view of Half Dome
Kayaking the Merced River, with Half Dome behind, in Yosemite Valley (Photo: Jim Thomsen)

For the last couple of years, Yosemite has gone back and forth with timed-entry reservations: mandating and enforcing them, then taking the system away, then bringing it back. In 2024, the park introduced a Peak Hours Plus system for spring, summer, and fall that required reservations from 5 A.M. to 4 P.M.

The park hasn’t announced its plans for 2025 yet. But we do know that you’ll need reservations from February 8 to February 23 on weekends because of the mass appeal of Horsetail Falls, which at that time of year glows when sunlight hits it. You need an even if you don’t want to see Horsetail Falls. We’ll update this article with Yosemite’s 2025 plans when they are released.

How to Get a Reservation to See Horsetail Falls: Half of the reservations for the February Horsetail Falls were released in November of 2024. The other half will be released two days in advance of the target weekends at 8 A.M. PT on recreation.gov. So if you’re trying to get tickets for February 23, you can get reservations on February 21 at 8 A.M.. There’s a $2 reservation fee.

Backup Plan: If you want to see Horsetail Falls in its winter glory on a weekend, you need to score a reservation. There’s no way into Yosemite on a February weekend without that permit. Or you can hit the park on weekdays in February when no reservations are required.

If you make it inside the park in February and are looking for something else to do, head to the Bridge Pass Ski Area, which offers downhill skiing and is a hub of groomed and ungroomed cross-country trails. The is a 8.3-mile ski through meadows with a dramatic view into Yosemite Valley.

8. Acadia National Park

Monument Cove, Acadia National Park (Photo: Sardius Stalker/NPS)

Acadia National Park did not require entrance reservations in 2024, but did require reservations for visitors wanting to drive Cadillac Summit Road from May 22 to October 27. The park has not announced its reservation plans for 2025, although Cadillac Summit Road permits are expected to be part of the management plan again.

How to Get a Cadillac Summit Road Permit: Last year, permits were required to drive the road from sunrise until sunset. The park released 30 percent of the permits 90 days in advance on on a rolling basis, while 70 percent of permits were released at 10 A.M. EST two days prior to desired dates. There was a $6 processing fee regardless of when you get the reservation.

People watch the sun rise from Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park
Visitors convene to see the sunrise from the top of Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park. (Photo: Courtesy Kent Miller/NPS)

Backup Plan: You’ll need to score a reservation if you want to drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain during the day time, but that’s not the only good view inside Acadia. Check out Great Head, a 145-foot tall summit with a dramatic view of Acadia’s beaches and coast, via this adventurous .

9. Mount Rainier National Park

Mount Rainier Washington State
The 14,410-foot Mount Rainier, an active volcano, is the most glaciated peak in the contiguous United States and the centerpiece of Mount Rainier National Park. (Photo: Javaris Johnson/ Snipezart)

Mount Rainier is the latest park to enter the timed-entry reservation game, introducing a pilot permit system last year for vehicles accessing the park via either the Paradise Corridor and Sunrise Corridor. Reservations were needed daily from 7 A.M. to 3 P.M. from May 24 through September 2 for the Paradise Corridor and July 3 to September 2 for the Sunrise Corridor. The park is still evaluating the results of that pilot program and has not yet announced plans for 2025. We’ll update this article when information is available.

How to Get a Reservation to Mount Rainier National Park: Advance reservations are made available on , and a small amount of next-day reservations are issued at 7 P.M. PT the day before on a rolling basis. A $2 processing fee is required for each reservation.

 

Dewey Lake, Mount Rainier National Park, Washington
Dewey Lake as seen from the 3.5-mile Naches Peak Loop Trail, Mount Rainier National Park (Photo: Courtesy Ivie Metzen/NPS)

Backup Plan: If you can’t score a reservation, try entering the park before 7 A.M. or after 3 P.M. Also, visitors with camping, lodging, or wilderness permits don’t need a timed-entry reservation. Also, if you enter Sunrise Corridor on foot or bicycle, you don’t need a reservation. If you’re , State Route 410 (Sunrise Road) climbs 3,650 feet in 20 miles from the park boundary to Sunrise, an overlook sitting at 6,400 feet in elevation that offers a big view of snowcapped Rainier and the surrounding valley.

Graham Averill is şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř magazine’s national parks columnist. He still regrets not scoring reservations for the sunrise in Haleakala National Park, and knows he needs to be better at planning ahead for such adventures. He recently wrote about the year’s (best) worst national park reviews; surviving a hurricane in his hometown of Asheville, North Carolina; and his choice for the country’s best state for adventures.

author photo graham averill
Our national parks columnist, Graham AverillĚý(Photo: Liz Averill)

 

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Gravel Brands Are Failing Women Riders /outdoor-adventure/biking/gravel-failing-women/ Sun, 05 Jan 2025 08:00:54 +0000 /?p=2692914 Gravel Brands Are Failing Women Riders

Sitting down with a former pro turned bike fitter to discuss how gravel brands are failing women and small riders with inappropriate sizing

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Gravel Brands Are Failing Women Riders

Every single bike brand will tell you that more women on bikes is an important goal. Then many of those same brands will offer smaller bikes with build kits, specifically handlebars, that aren’t appropriate for smaller riders. The practice is even more common in the world of gravel cycling.

The details that set the stage

That’s the gist of the article but before we get rolling, I need to go a little deeper. That first paragraph rests on a number of assumptions and needs some explanation.

The first thing I want to address is how this intersects with women and cycling. I’m obviously not a woman and it’s not my place to say what women need. How this issue affects women is only half the point though.

The truth is I entered this conversation with my own needs centeredĚý because the things that affect us personally tend to catch our attention. I ride a size 54, or medium, and over the years I’ve covered a number of gravel bikes with handlebars that aren’t right for me.

The Salsa Warbird is a bike that specs a 42 cm bar on a bike in my size. I run the Cadex AR bar instead in a 40 cm width. (Photo Josh Ross/Velo)

In the past I might have requested the correct size or simply dealt with it. It’s no big deal when a bar costs under $50 and takes maybe 30 minutes to swap including new tape. Now bikes are getting more integrated and things are getting more complicated.

When I reviewed the and the recently, I made a point to call out the sizing issues. As a refresher, Pivot makes things extra confusing by using odd names for the frame sizes. Despite that bike being a small, I tested both of those bikes in essentially the same size and what would typically be called either a medium or a 54. In that size, Pivot uses a 42cm bar while Mondraker specs a size 44cm. There’s also the Revel Rover that uses a 44, the Trek Checkpoint with a 42, the Salsa Warbird with a 42… I’m sure I could go on.

Mondraker specs a 44 cm bar on every frame size for the Arid (Photo Josh Ross/Velo)

As I wrote up those reviews, I asked the brands about the chosen sizes. The answer was, and is almost always, that it’s an adventure bike and the wide bar is there for stability.

Personally, the whole thing didn’t feel right to me. I know my shoulders measure 38 cm and if I ride wider bars my shoulders ache as the hours start to drag on. It never seemed to make sense that something was supposed to change on an adventure focused bike.

Let’s swing that back to women though. At 5’ 9” I happen to be exactly average height for US men. Average height for US women is only 5’ 3.5” and the situation for bar size vs frame size doesn’t get better as you go to smaller sizes. That means women are going to feel this inappropriate match up more often than men.

Maybe I’m totally wrong though? There’s certain reviewers that spend time calling for larger bars on every bike. I wonder though, are they mostly men riding larger bikes? With all this swirling in my head, I went searching for an expert.

Missy Schwab is an elite cyclist and fit expert

I knew that I didn’t want to sit and discuss what women need with another man. I also knew I wanted someone who was an experienced bike fitter and an elite level cyclist. The woman I found was Missy Schwab.

Schwab is a “6x national champion in track cycling, holds 2 US track records, and won a bronze medal at the 2015 UCI Track World Cup in Cali Colombia.” In 2016 when she wrote her bio she was “ranked #1 in the United States in the sprint disciplines” though she narrowly missed actually competing in the 2016 Olympics due to a training crash.

At this point, most people would call Schwab retired. She runs and she’s got ten years experience as a bike fitter for athletes of all levels. Still,Ěý in case you thought retirement made her slow,she recently grabbed a second place in the 2024 USA Cycling Elite National Championship for Women’s elite team sprint.

I did also reach out to Trek, Mondraker, Pivot, and Enve to get a sense of the strategy involved in picking the stock bars for each size. Specifically I wanted to know if any of the brands in question used the kind of data that Colnago used in sizing the new . Only Enve responded and I’ve got that info down below.

Now I understand that this was a lot of setup but it’s important to place the problem and explain how it affects me as well as other small riders.

Pivot swapped the bars on my review Vault but not everyone will get that treatment. (Photo Josh Ross/Velo)

Yes, different bikes call for different bar widths

As I said, the basic premise of the response I typically get from brands is that the bars chosen for a size have to do with the use of a bike. When it’s an adventure bike, you will see wider bars for added stability. This was also the gist of how Enve responded.

To be fair to Enve, as the only brand that responded, it’s important to note that the brand sidesteps the issue by allowing riders to choose the bar width at time of purchase. If you are looking at a size 49 Enve MOG, you can select the stem length, handlebar width, and handlebar model “depending on your riding style and preferences.” However, the G-series bar only goes down to 42 cm so I wanted to know why.

Enve responded with a short bit of info pointing to the focus of the G-series bar. Saying, “the Gravel Bar prioritizes handling and control, rather than chasing any aerodynamic benefits.” While pointing riders to other flared options in smaller sizes saying “for those seeking a fit and feel more in line with a road bike, that’s where our SES AR and SES Aero handlebar options come into play.”

Schwab agreed with this premise. Although she competed in track, she also told me she regularly rides a mountain bike and was clear “you’re not going to have the same width handlebar on a track bike that you have on a road bike and that will also come across to gravel.” She explained that she rides a size 54 frame also and runs 36 cm on the road but 30 cm on the track. Just as many brands have stated, different disciplines have different requirements.

One of the things I love about the Enve MOG is the ability to spec the handlebars that make sense to you and your fit. I’m running 40cm Enve AR bars. (Photo Josh Ross/Velo)

The starting point is too wide

According to Schwab the problem is more about the starting point. Even bikes that offer a bar on the smaller side of the trend line are calling for a 42 cm bar on a 54. She’s quite clear that individual athletes will have different needs but is it likely that someone on a 54 needs to move up 4 cm for riding gravel? Schwab seemed skeptical of that idea. Instead she mentioned considering “maybe a 38-40 bar to have a little bit more width” in case there’s a need to “stand up or really pull through.”

Although Schwab was emphatic that different riders will have different needs, I pushed her on that point. For one thing I happen to ride the same frame size as her and seem to have the same shoulder width. More importantly though, a brand has to make a decision for everyone buying a bike in a particular size. I asked Schwab about this and she told me “as a general rule of thumb every gravel position that I have set up as a fitter I 100% can say that I have recommended a narrower handlebar for every athlete who comes in with a gravel bike. They’re too wide.”

The need for wide bars might point to other issues

Although our conversation was about bike fit and handlebar size, Schwab pointed out how interconnected bike fit and ride performance can be. Specifically she mentioned briefly how the need, or desire, to use wider bars might be a sign of other issues.

The first time this came up was as Schwab referenced her own experience with the precise nature of track cycling. Within that context she pointed out “in the Velodrome, when we have athletes that aren’t able to handle a narrow handlebar, there’s an imbalance in the shift of power driven through the leg. So if you need a wider handlebar to keep yourself going forward in a straight direction, that to me resembles some sort of instability.”

Then, later in the conversation, this concept came up again. This time I had asked Schwab why some cyclists might choose wider bars despite recommendations. In response, she told me her own experience as she explained “before I knew any better, I preferred the feel of wide handlebars” and “I thought I looked so cool sprinting because I could throw my bike side to side.” Then, almost as an aside, she told me that at that time “I didn’t understand how to generate power without yanking on my bars.”

Trek narrows the hoods for aero benefit. (Photo Josh Ross/Velo)

How can individual riders solve this problem?

Although my hypothesis is that gravel brands are failing women and small riders, I also asked Schwab how she deals with the fallout of that.

She told me the path to finding the right bar size isn’t generally an exact science. At the highest levels of competition you’d want to treat it as a scientific problem and “you’d have to do testing on an athlete, power testing, speed testing, whatever data point you want to pull from” until you found the right solution. Unfortunately not many will have that path available. Ideally bike brands would do that for us but I wasn’t able to find a brand claiming to do that in the gravel space.

That leaves most riders to find a bike fitter and solve it for themselves. Schwab explained that in her studio, she has “every size of handlebar” and that “we install different size handlebars.” If that sounds simple, it is. She told me “a lot of times it comes down to feel for the athlete but it also comes down to visually how the bar centers under them. The relaxation of the angles of their wrist, the ability of them to open their chest and the distance between their scapulas, also like a lot of athletes come in complaining of upper back pain, neck pain, wrist pain, things like that, pressure on their hands. You can root a lot of it back to handlebar size.”

In other words, it comes down to the experience of a bike fitter and Schwab says “my general rule of thumb when I fit two handlebars is when you’re on the bike looking at an athlete from head on, what is their natural wrist position? Is the wrist straight up and down? Are they rotated out? Is the pressure on their hands distributed evenly? Are their shoulders relaxed? Do I see an equal distribution of the spread between their shoulder blades across their chest?”

That experience then combines with the feedback of the athlete. “How does the athlete feel and how does the athlete look and are they able to actually sustain that position? Obviously on the track we look for something that is just strictly performance-based. Other athletes you want to look for overall comfort and some athletes just have personal preferences.”

Personally I was also interested to see if shoulder width measurement was a factor. When asked about that, Schwab said “it can be” but mostly cautioned that it’s important to consider it on the bike, not standing. She told me that “I have people who are like when I stand up straight and hold my shoulders back, this is how wide my shoulders are.” then went on to remind riders to consider “when you get on the bike how is your position different?”

Conclusion

Although I asked for a number of brands to add a voice, only one did. In the end I spoke to one bike fitter who has one perspective. Missy Scwhab has ten years of experience making athletes faster and more comfortable and she’s also competed at the highest level. She is still only one person. She is also very clear that every person is different and that at least part of bike fit is feel vs science.

That all means you may disagree. Schwab has “never put a pair of 44s on a single bike in 10 years” but you and your bike fitter might find that a 44 cm bar works for you and your needs.

Beyond that, all I can tell is my own point of view. I’m 5’9” and I need a 40 cm, or smaller, bar no matter the use case of a bike. I believe gravel brands are failing women and small riders by not offering bars in reasonable sizes for the frames they pair with. A new rider who gets a bike that doesn’t fit is a clear barrier to entry and should be an easy fix. This is low hanging fruit for inclusion.

Thanks to Missy Schwab who helped make this articleĚýhappen. You can benefit from her expertise at .

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I’ve Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit. /adventure-travel/advice/solo-travel/ Sun, 15 Dec 2024 10:00:41 +0000 /?p=2691667 I’ve Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit.

More people are catching onto the freedom and rewards of taking trips alone. Here’s what I've learned in two decades of wandering on my own.

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I’ve Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit.

In traveling, I’ve always chosen to go it alone rather than not go at all. Over the years, friends have called me fearless. Don’t you get scared? they ask. Very rarely. Lonely? Honestly, never, even before the days of social media. And isn’t it more expensive to travel by yourself than with others? Traditionally, yes. Solo travelers often got slapped with single-supplement, or premium, hotel and tour fees, but since the pandemic, companies have started courting solo travelers. Priceline even held its first-ever .

, safety, loneliness, and expense are the three biggest reasons people hate to travel solo. But I’ve been adventuring on my own for more than two decades, and I find it freeing. I can travel at my own pace and on my own budget. I can easily score a table for one—even at top restaurants that often require bookings weeks in advance. And I connect more with locals.

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More people are catching on to the appeal of solo travel, however, especially Gen Zers and Millennials. Google searches for solo travel have increased 223 percent over the past decade, and according to a , 50 percent of Americans planned to travel alone in 2024. And while women have led the indie trip trend in recent years, men are joining the ranks. A from the travel booking site Omio found that 30 percent of men, compared to 23 percent of women, have solo journeys planned for 2025.

Jen Murphy on a solo-travel trip in the Omo Valley in Ethiopia
On a weeklong trip, the author camped alongside the people of the Omo River Valley, in Ethiopia, and learned their history, culture, and the effects of drought. (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

If you’ve hesitated to give solo travel a go, let me alleviate your concerns and suggest some of my favorite places for awesome adventuring on your own.

Always Consider Safety First

Certain destinations lend themselves to solo travel more than others. Certainly, safety is top of mind.

Cliffs of Moher, coast of Ireland
The famous Cliffs of Moher line the coast in County Clare, Ireland, which is considered one of the safest countries in the world to visit. The 220-foot Branaunmore sea stack was once part of the cliffs, which rise to nearly 800 feet. (Photo: Ted Benge)

I scan the U.S. State Department’s and avoid countries of conflict. I also browse the (GPI), an annual ranking of nations based on factors like the absence of violence or fear of violence, a nation’s level of harmony or discord, and its degree of militarization. Coming into 2025, Iceland, Ireland, and Austria are the safest three countries in the world, according to the overall GPI score.

, which also researches and ranks the safest places to visit each year, is another great resource. Rankings are based on an average of “all measures from [BHTP’s] State of Travel Insurance research,” and factor in other indices including the Global Peace Index and information from sources like , a destination database that scores living conditions. Berkshire Hathaway puts Iceland, Australia, and Canada as top three for safety, with Ireland close behind.

graphic showing safest countries
Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection ranks the safest places to visit each year. (Illustration: Tim Schamber)

In addition to its list, Berkshire Hathaway provides write-ups that touch on smart considerations to take into account in each of the high-ranking nations, from dangerous wildlife like box jellyfish in Australia to driving on the left-hand side of the road in Ireland to expensive emergency-evacuation costs in remote destinations of northern Norway.

My 6 Favorite Solo-Travel Destinations

Some of my picks are at the top of the Berkshire Hathaway and Global Peace Index lists, but I cast a wider lens to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations. In particular, such places have satisfied my craving for big doses of nature and adventure.

Portugal

the author traveling alone and surfing in Portugal with two friends she met on her trip
The author with friends she met at Noah Surf House in Portugal, which she has visited solo four timesĚý(Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

The GPI ranked Portugal the seventh-safest country in the world in 2024. It’s also a bargain compared to most Western European countries (a draft of craft beer cost me $3 in Lisbon compared to $8 in Paris), and the effortlessly connects the northern and southern regions.

I’ve visited this country solo four times and have always found the locals extremely hospitable. On my first trip, I checked out the beach town of Sagres in the southern region of Algarve and met two couples from Lisbon who offered to drive me back to the city. One of the women took off work the next day to be my tour guide, and that evening she and her husband threw a dinner party for me at their home.

I love making solo surf trips up and down Portugal’s coast. Hotels like (from $200) in Santa Cruz and (from $73), just north in the town of Peniche, have a clubhouse vibe and offer activities and events—like rooftop music sessions—that make it easy to meet new friends. Both places can arrange board rentals, lessons, and English-speaking guides.

If you, too, fall hard for the country, Portugal’s recently introduced makes it easy to pursue residency while working remotely.

Costa Rica

Pura vida vibes have always made me feel welcome in Costa Rica. The State Department’s Level 2 advisory recommends that trip-goers use increased caution here, due to petty crime risks and natural hazards like earthquakes (which are common-ish here, with events of magnitude 7 about every decade). For 2025, Berkshire Hathaway Costa Rica the sixth-safest place in the world for female, BIPOC, and LGBTQIA+ travelers.

Surf towns such as Nosara and Santa Teresa along the Pacific Coast attract a lot of Americans and have small expat communities. , a hotel brand catering to digital nomads with coworking spaces as well as rooms, has eight outposts in Costa Rica, including in Nosara, Santa Teresa, and Monteverde (shared dorms from $24). These properties host music events and arrange local experiences for guests.

On the Caribbean Coast, I’m a big fan of the boutique hotel (from $365), which is part of the sustainability-focused Cayuga Collection. The hotel works with local guides and outfitters to arrange snorkeling excursions and hiking day trips in Cahuita National Park, including for solo guests. The place also offers free bike use, which I love for exploring the nearby town on my own.

CanadaĚý

Jen Murphy prepares for a polar plunge in British Columbia
The author gamely readies for a polar plunge in Whistler, British Columbia, Canada (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Canadians have a reputation for being incredibly friendly, and that as well as proximity to the U.S. and our shared language are bonuses. highlighted the country’s low crime rate and noted that wildlife like bears and moose posed some of the biggest dangers to visitors.

Vancouver and Montreal, great jumping-off points for the wilderness, ranked two and three, respectively, on a that see the most solo-travel searches on the travel site Kayak and the most solo-dining reservations on OpenTable.

Canada has 37 national parks and 11 national park reserves, as well as two beautiful coasts. I’ve made friends while soaking in the swimming-pool-sized hot tub at (from $250) in Alberta’s Banff National Park. I’ve also plotted solo snowboard trips to , British Columbia, to coincide with the Natural Selection Tour freestyle competition, knowing I’d meet like-minded travelers.

If you’re wary of wandering the wilderness alone, sign up for a guided trek with a local outfitter. I like the .

Another low-stress option is crisscrossing the country via rail. The Rocky Mountaineer’s from Vancouver to Banff takes just two days and is staffed with storytellers who can shed light on indigenous sites and wildlife. It offers single-berth accommodations from $1,752.

Australia

Jen Murphy in Wineglass Bay, Tasmania, Australia
The author above Wineglass Bay, Tasmania, Australia, during a long walk with a local guide (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Australia has long been a magnet for backpackers. I spent nearly a year in my twenties backpacking mostly solo around the country’s east coast, and the biggest dangers were crocodiles, snakes, and jellyfish. Despite its resident poisonous critters, Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection scored AustraliaĚý the second-safest place in the world to travel for 2025.

Affordable and clean hostels, like (from $140) in Queensland’s Daintree Rainforest, abound and are filled with other solo travelers. is a beach-club-vibe hostel brand with Queensland locations in Noosa, Cairns, and Airlie Beach (from $32 for a spot in a mixed dorm).

Australia is a fantastic destination for hiking. is a collection of 13 treks that you can do yourself or with a guide. I spent four days traversing the wildlife-filled in Tasmania, opting for a guide via the local outfitter the because I wanted to learn more about the flora, fauna, and culture on the island (from $1,900, all-inclusive). The first two nights we stayed in secluded, simple bush camps near the beach ($7), and the final night we were pampered in the recently renovated historic-home-turned-hotel, Bernacchi House.

If you’re sticking to the mainland, the in the state of Victoria is a very doable 27 miles over four days along the Great Ocean Road, with campsites en route. The walk is suitable for hikers of any experience and takes in the shipwreck-dotted coastline, wild beaches, and Great Otway and Port Campbell National Parks.

Austria

Jen Murphy ski touring in St. Anton, Austria
An off-piste adventure in St. Anton, Austria (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Austria is a fantastic option for solo alpine adventures. The country is ranked third on the Global Peace Index and fifth worldwide in terms of safety by the . Most locals speak English, and a great public transportation network makes it easy to travel car-free. If you’re deciding between alpine destinations, consider that the cost of living in Switzerland is higher than in Austria, and that affects tourism; in general, expect lodging and meals in Austria to cost half of what you’d pay in Switzerland.

The runs a network of more than 170 huts, where it’s easy to engage with other hikers. Most mountain resorts, such as or or have guided hiking, biking, and paddling tours that allow you to mingle with others. And many villages offer special . I met some friends on a solo trip to the , held each September.

Bhutan

Jen Murphy, author, in Bhutan on a hike with her guide
The author with one of her guides in the kingdom of Bhutan, a mecca for trekking and biking and one of the most soulful places she has ever been (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Solo travel, for me, has been the perfect way to do some soul searching when I’m making big decisions or going through a transition. And one of the most soulful places I’ve ever visited is the Kingdom of Bhutan. It is a place of beauty and spirituality, and travelers here are required to have a guide, which is an exceptional way to become familiar with the culture.

Six years ago, I went on assignment on a solo ten-day guided trip of this Southeast Asia nation and learned so much, including the proper way to throw a dart (this is a traditional sport in Bhutan) and about dating habits here (yes, there’s Tinder in Bhutan). I still keep in touch with my guide, who was a woman, on WhatsApp.

Bhutan is ranked 21 on the Global Peace Index, and it’s a mecca for hiking and mountain biking—the king is an avid mountain biker, and my guide and I spotted him one day on the trail. While getting there from the U.S. isn’t cheap, nor are costs within the country, visits are slightly more affordable since the kingdom halved its daily tourist fee from $200 to $100 last year.

Phil Bowen of should be your go-to logistician to find a guide, driver, and accommodations, which can range from homestays to splurge-worthy hotels. (from $550, half-board, meaning room, breakfast, and one other meal) is one of the most memorable places I’ve stayed in throughout my global travels.

5 Tips for Solo Travelers, From a Pro

lone hiker Lake Ediza, the Sierra
Rita Keil quietly contemplates the view at Lake Ediza, near Mammoth Lakes, California. (Photo: Jake Stern)

Here are some tips and tricks for making the most of a solo trip.Ěý

Share Your Plans

I always email my mom my rough itinerary. It includes the contact information for any hotels I’ve already booked or the names of campsites where I plan to stay. I also regularly check in with her or a good friend via What’s App or email to let them know I’ve reached a destination safely and when I’m moving on to my next stop.

Eat at the Restaurant’s Bar

I absolutely love dining alone at the bar. It’s usually easy to score a single seat, and before long I’m chatting with some fascinating local characters. Bartenders are often fantastic sources of local intel and can direct you to good restaurants and the best hiking and mountain-biking trails. Finally, happy-hour specials are a great way to save a few bucks.

Watch and Post on Message Boards

If you’re craving companionship, you might post on social-media channels like Facebook and Instagram—you never know who in your circles, or your friends’ circles, is headed to the same place as you—or use the Friends setting on apps like Bumble. Many hotels and hostels, and often the local grocery store, still have bulletin boards with postings for local activities, like free yoga sessions or group hikes.

Pack Meds

Being alone isn’t so great when you fall ill in a far-flung place. In many countries it’s manageable: you can walk into a pharmacy, explain your symptoms, and get what you need. But I recently suffered through a debilitating urinary-tract infection in Morocco, and now I never travel without the broad-spectrum antibiotic I needed. I convinced my doctor to prescribe one in case I get that sick on the road again.

Don’t Second-Guess Yourself

Trust your gut. If something feels unsafe, it probably is. The very few times I’ve gotten food poisoning have been when actions went against my instinct. Don’t be afraid to be impolite. Once, in Varanasi, India, an elderly woman offered me a glass of sketchy looking lassi. I felt rude saying no, and all it took was one sip to give me Delhi Belly. I knew better.

You should also follow your intuition. When I meet strangers and feel genuine good vibes, I will accept an invitation to share a ride or join for a meal in someone’s home. These chance encounters have rewarded me with some wonderful friends and experiences over the years.

The author stops her bike ride in Romania to pose in front of a house where a muster of storks has constructed a large nest atop a building.
The author on a bike ride in RomaniaĚý(Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Jen Murphy is °żłÜłŮ˛őľ±»ĺ±đ’s online travel-advice columnist. She has had some of her most memorable adventures while traveling solo, from dancing with a local tribe in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia to joining members of the Indian army on a run in Delhi. Her journal and a good book have always served as great companions. She has also recently written an ultimate guide to winter fun in a choice selection of mountain towns in Colorado, a guide for anyone new to adventure travel in Costa Rica, and the funniest things travelers ask their adventure guides. There are doozies.

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How One Cyclist Is Making the Sport Inclusive for Riders of All Sizes /outdoor-adventure/biking/marley-blonsky-all-bodies-on-bikes/ Tue, 03 Dec 2024 12:00:39 +0000 /?p=2689821 How One Cyclist Is Making the Sport Inclusive for Riders of All Sizes

Marley Blonsky is changing the cycling industry—one group ride at a time

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How One Cyclist Is Making the Sport Inclusive for Riders of All Sizes

Learning to ride a bike can be your first taste of freedom. Suddenly, the world beyond your front door opens up, ready to be explored on two wheels.

But for Marley Blonsky it wasn’t that simple. Back when she was eight years old, trying to ride with her older sister and her friends, she was told she was too slow. “I always wanted to be part of the club,” she says. “It felt like something I was constantly striving for and not really accomplishing.”

As an adult, Blonsky, 38, faced similar barriers—and some new ones she hadn’t anticipated. She found that the weight limits on most road bikes were too low for her; her rides were hampered by broken spokes and cracked saddle rails. Most cycling-apparel brands had limited sizing, so she struggled to find comfortable jerseys and bibs. On group rides, she felt that familiar sensation of being left behind.

So she did something about it. In 2021, along with Kailey Kornhauser, Blonsky founded , a club that welcomes riders regardless of their size, gender, race, or ability. Over the past three years, the group has expanded to ten chapters, with plans to add nearly 30 more by 2027. Each chapter is encouraged to organize rides, collaborate with other bike-advocacy organizations in its area, and host events like gear swaps and fix-a-flat clinics. “We don’t care why you’re riding a bike,” she says. “We just want to empower you to do it joyfully.”

Leading an All Bodies on Bikes ride at Roam Fest
Leading an All Bodies on Bikes ride at Roam Fest (Photo: Patty Valencia)

In 2024, All Bodies on Bikes led several bike-camping trips (the one hosted by the Kansas City chapter had 50 riders) and cohosted the biggest finish-line party in gravel cycling: the DFL party (for Dead Fucking Last) at MidSouth Gravel. Looking forward, the organization’s strategic plan includes establishing industry standards for weight limits on bikes and components, pushing brands to represent a greater range of sizes in their advertising, and creating a retail certification for bike shops to let would-be clients know that “this shop is knowledgeable in working with customers of size and will treat you with dignity and respect,” Blonsky says.

By creating a cycling community that embraces people of all shapes and sizes, Blonsky has made what can be an intimidating sport more approachable for new riders. She regularly receives messages from people about how meaningful it is to see a diversity of bodies represented in cycling. After years of feeling excluded, the self-identified fat cyclist has found power in throwing open the gates.

“It doesn’t feel like what we’re doing is that radical,” she says. “To slow down a little bit, to see folks and meet them where they’re at, it shouldn’t be that incredible of a thing. But it is.”

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How to Visit Jackson Hole on a Budget—Know These Tips /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/visit-jackson-hole-wyoming-budget/ Mon, 02 Dec 2024 11:00:06 +0000 /?p=2689961 How to Visit Jackson Hole on a Budget—Know These Tips

This Wyoming gem is legendary for year-round adventure but known as pricey. There are ways to go without blowing your budget.

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How to Visit Jackson Hole on a Budget—Know These Tips

Ski trips shouldn’t be relegated to the rich and even richer. We all deserve to go powder chasing midwinter without dissolving our bank accounts. But these days, finding a budget way to ski requires serious homework. You can always venture away from the headliner areas to smaller, less crowded local ski hills that want to entice visitors through budget deals, but you may have to sacrifice quality of terrain and convenient lodging. Or you could go early or late season, but that means gambling on snow conditions.

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So, what if you want to go big—like, say, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, in mid-winter—but not spend big? It’s tricky but not impossible. Here’s how to visit a popular, world-class destination like Jackson Hole on a ski-bum’s budget. It’s also a great destination year-round, for hiking, biking, climbing, boating, fly fishing, and camping.

man and two women hike in Jackson, Wyoming, in summertime
Summertime hiking at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort brings incredible views. The area is also a biking and climbing mecca. (Photo: Stephen Shelesky / JHMR)

Getting to Jackson Hole, Wyoming

To reach Jackson, Wyoming, located at the base of the Teton Range, you can drive, fly, or take a bus. If you’re coming by car, it’s four and a half hours from Salt Lake City, Utah, or eight hours from Denver, pending road and weather conditions. offers bus routes into Jackson from Salt Lake City, Boise, or Las Vegas starting at $75. The Jackson Hole Airport has nonstop direct flights from 12 major U.S. cities, including Denver, Seattle, San Francisco, Dallas, Chicago, and Newark, but flights aren’t exactly cheap. United Airlines does offer an and $400 flight savings if you bundle lodging and airfare (deadline is by November 30, so save the idea for another year).

From the airport, hop a public bus or taxi into town. Don’t bother renting a car. Parking at the ski resort starts at $18 a day, so your best bet is to take the local ($3) from town or the Village Road Transit Center, and you’ll be dropped at the base of in Teton Village.

Lift-Ticket Deals in Jackson

If you can make it here early season, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has a weekendĚýfrom December 6-8: show up wearing denim, and you can ski Saturday for $25 or get a three-day lift ticket for $199, plus half-priced gear rentals at and . Another great deal is that early or late season (November 29 through December 19 or March 17 through April 13), season passholders from any other ski area in the world can receive a 50-percent-off at Jackson Hole. Have an ? You can come midwinter and have up to seven days with the full Ikon Pass; five days with the Base Pass Plus (which has select blackout dates), . Otherwise your best option is to buy tickets online well in advance for the lowest rate (they start at $218 a day).

The best deal for skiing here isn’t at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; it’s at , the town ski hill, which has big steeps and steep discounts. This is a much smaller ski area—500 acres compared to Jackson’s 2,500 inbounds acres—but its convenient location in town and minimal crowds make it a worthy destination, especially on a powder day. Single-day lift tickets start at $95, or with a $30 uphill ticket you can skin up under your own power and ski back down. The other hidden gem? , a 2,602-acre powder mecca just over Teton Pass, 45 miles or about an hour and 10 minutes from Jackson, where you can score a half-day ticket for $132. run from Jackson to Targhee and start at $199, which includes your lift ticket.

woman skier hiking uphill, Teton Pass, near Jackson, Wyoming
Madison Ostergren bootpacks up Glory Bowl on Teton Pass, an easy-access backcountry zone. (Photo: Stephen Shelesky / Visit Jackson Hole)

Hire a Backcountry Guide or Take a Lesson: Info But Sorry, No Discounts

There’s no discount way to book a ski lesson or hire a backcountry guide. You’ll pay a premium for these services. At Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, full day for experienced skiers start at around $379 (excluding lift ticket) per person. Resort for those just getting started skiing or wanting to progress to the next level start at $250 a day. If you’d rather not originate at the ski area, you can hire an AMGA-certified guide from for a tour of the terrain off Teton Pass or in Grand Teton National Park starting at $265 a person.

Find Cheap Lodging in Jackson

the virginian ski lodge Jackson, Wyoming
The Virg, as it’s known, has recently had a complete overhaul. (Photo: Courtesy Outbound Hotels)

If you want to stay at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort for the closest access to the lifts, your best budget option is (from $49), located right in Teton Village, which has both shared bunks and private rooms, plus a ski-tuning space, game room, and basic kitchen supplies.

Cache House, ski area, Jackson Wyoming
You can sleep in your own pod at the Cache House starting from $55. (Photo: Courtesy Cache House)

Otherwise, stay in town—12 miles away—and you’ll have your choice of a few wallet-friendly accommodations. has newly renovated rooms starting from around $177, and . The (from $55) has pod-style bunks, free coffee, and storage lockers for stashing your gear. And the recently redone (from $160) has hot tubs and firepits, an on-site burger joint, and a walk-through or drive-through liquor store that also sells breakfast burritos in the morning.

Affordable Food and Drink Here

If you’re on the mountain or staying in Teton Village, prices for food and drink aren’t cheap, so you’ll want to know where to look, and you can always pack a PBJ in your pocket. Start with a cup of high-quality espresso from the take-out window at , next to the Mango Moose. The , at the gas station across the parking lot from the team in Teton Village, has a food truck out front and grab-and-go breakfast sandwiches and burritos. Mid-day or after skiing, hit up inside the Snake River Lodge for a $9 hot dog or tacos, or the , one of the most classic après ski bars ever, which has $6 pizza by the slice. For fuel on the mountain, ride the tram to the top of Rendezvous Peak, take in the view of the Tetons from the observation deck, then pop into for an $8.25 house-made waffle with brown-sugar butter or Nutella. (Trust us, it’s worth every penny.)

Corbet's Cabin
Corbet’s Cabin at the top of the Jackson Hole Tram. Sign us up for the waffles.Ěý(Photo: Courtesy JHMR)

In town there are lots of options for dining out, but many of them are pricy. Buying groceries at Albertson’s will save you. For other options, has tasty burritos from $11 or $6 tacos. Up a flight of stairs from Town Square, you’ll find , which slings thin-crust large pies starting at around $17, or pick up a $5 slice from .

pizza, beer in Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Have a slice and a PBR at Pinky G’s, one of the more affordable pizzerias in the town of Jackson. (Photo: Visit Jackson Hole)

With locations in downtown Jackson and, seven miles away, the town of Wilson, is a locals’ favorite for no-fuss coffee and bagel sandwiches (a naked bagel costs $1.50). And the best breakfast burrito in town is served until 2 p.m. out of a take-out window on Glenwood Street called , where for $12 you can get a massive burrito that’ll feed you for two meals.

Other Cool Outdoor şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍřs Here

ice skating Teton Village, Wyoming
The ice rink in Teton Village. You can skate for $5 if you bring your own gear. (Photo: Courtesy JHMR)

It’s $5 to skate in the or on the (through the famous elk-antler arches) if you have your own skates (or $18, including the entry fee, to rent skates).

hot springs near Jackson, Wyoming
From early December through March, when the approach road is closed, you will have to cross-country ski, snowmobile, or dog sled to reach Granite Hot Springs. (Photo: Keegan Rice / Visit Jackson Hole)

You’ll need to cross-country ski, snowmobile, or dog sled to reach , located south of town on Granite Creek Road, which is closed in the winter. It’s a 19-mile round trip ski to get there, but that’s the least expensive option ( rents Nordic skis from $40 a day; entry into the hot springs is $12) for this memorable day. Otherwise, you’ll need to throw down for a guided snowmobile trip ( leads them starting at $231) or a dogsled outing ( has full-day trips to the hot springs from $460).


It costs nothing to cross-country ski or fat bike along , a locals’ favorite trail that’s groomed in the winter and is a great biking and hiking trailhead in the summertime.


Another excellent year-round option is the short multi-use in the nearby town of Wilson.

Pro Tip

Teton Village, Wyoming
This is Teton Village, the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. (Photo: Courtesy JHMR)

Here’s a fun way to be a conscientious visitor to the area, while scoring a discount: Support Jackson Hole’s community radio station, KHOL 89.1, with a of $60 or more, and you’ll get a member-benefit card for discounts to heaps of local businesses, including $2 off a burrito, 10 percent off Philly cheesesteaks at , 15 percent off at , 10 percent off at classes at , and free cross-country ski rental for two people at (that alone is worth $80).

Megan Michelson is an şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř contributing editor who loves skiing but not how expensive it is. She prefers the strawberry waffle from Corbet’s Cabin, and her favorite line at Jackson Hole is the very steep and very fun Tower Three Chute off Thunder Chair. Other recent articles by Michelson include “Why My Family Replaced Thanksgiving with Campsgiving,” about a great decision; a description of a tiny, remote backcountry hut, “This Is Hands-Down the Coolest Airbnb in Colorado”; and, more help with costs, “Shred This Colorado Mountain for $11 a Day—Plus Other Incredible Ski-Resort Deals.”

Megan Michelson author
The author, Megan Michelson, at the base of the Teton Range on one of many trips she’s taken to Jackson, Wyoming (Photo: Megan Michelson Collection)

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You Don’t Need Fancy Anti-Theft Tech. You Just Need a Big Ol’ Bike Lock. /culture/love-humor/big-bike-lock-peace/ Thu, 28 Nov 2024 10:00:34 +0000 /?p=2689629 You Don’t Need Fancy Anti-Theft Tech. You Just Need a Big Ol’ Bike Lock.

For the past 18 years, I’ve used the same hefty lock—even when I’m riding cheap clunkers around town. Here’s why.

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You Don’t Need Fancy Anti-Theft Tech. You Just Need a Big Ol’ Bike Lock.
I have had this bike lock for 18 years: PHOTO OF MASTER LOCK BIKE CHAIN
(All illustrations: Brendan Leonard)
It weighs 5 pounds, 5 ounces. I paid $30 for it in 2006, to protect a bicycle a friend bought me for $225. I was living in central Denver, a big enough city that you’d want a substantial lock for your bike if you wanted to keep your bike. (but not as big as, say, NYC, where bike theft is so next-level that one company named its toughest bike locks after it)
I’ve never really owned a super-expensive bike, but the bikes I’ve had, I have loved. Even if it was a 20-plus year-old frame I got for $100, the bike lived indoors, even in my smallest studio apartment. I didn’t use a heavy-ass bike lock because I wanted to protect a financial investment—I used it to protect my relationship with the bike.
My friend Gregory had his bike stolen a few years ago. It was a frame he’d built himself, exactly how he’d wanted it. The hardest part, he’d told me, was that the bike was probably sold for $50. Meaning: The thief had no idea what that bike was really worth. [BAR CHART: WHAT MY BIKE IS WORTH TO ME vs. WHAT MY BIKE IS WORTH TO A TOTAL STRANGER]
Gregory built me a bike, and relative to every other bike I’ve ever bought, it was expensive. But more than that, it’s irreplaceable. PHOTO OF GREGORY AND MY BIKE
I live in a much less-populous city now, one that’s like a small town in a lot of ways. Not so long ago, or even now, you might leave your house unlocked when you’re out, or not worry about a delivered package sitting on your doorstep for a few hours. Where I live now, I could probably get away with a smaller, lighter cable lock when I park my bike outside a coffee shop for an hour or two. But I keep using the same big, heavy chain.
There are all sorts of technological inventions you can use to keep your stuff safe—cameras, AirTags, tracking microchips. But lots of those things are intended to catch thieves in the act, not prevent theft from taking place.
Someone (Bob) told me this quote a while back, and the person saying it (Randy Newberg) was talking about marriage, not bike theft, but it strikes me as maybe a good life philosophy. It goes, “be more interested in peace than justice.” It lives in my head in this shorthand version: [HAND-DRAWN BOX WITH PEACE > JUSTICE]
What does justice actually mean, in the case of a bike theft? Getting the bike back? Catching the thief? Seeing them punished? After we become the victim of a crime, we seek justice. But what we really want, I think, is for things to be like they were before the crime. And that’s impossible.
The bike lock, to me, is pursuing peace in hopes of not having to pursue justice. If I take away the possibility of my bike getting stolen, maybe I won’t have to spend any time, energy, or emotion trying to track down a thief (and my bike). [FLOW CHART: PEACE Vs. JUSTICE IN BIKE THEFT]
I love my bike. Every time I ride it, it reminds me of my friend Gregory. If it ever got stolen, I would do everything I could to get it back. But I don’t want to have to do that, so I’ll keep carrying this big-ass lock around with it, to keep my chances of peace as high as possible, and my chances of having to pursue justice as low as possible. [PHOTO OF ROUND BIKE LOCK FORMING PEACE SIGN]

 

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Leadville: America’s Highest City Is a Boom-and-Bust Town Reborn /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/leadville-colorado/ Sun, 10 Nov 2024 13:00:01 +0000 /?p=2686600 Leadville: America's Highest City Is a Boom-and-Bust Town Reborn

This remote mountain town has had its ups and downs. In recent years famous races put it on the map, but some knew of its year-round treasures all along.

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Leadville: America's Highest City Is a Boom-and-Bust Town Reborn

Most of Colorado’s 1800s boomtowns lived fast and died young. Leadville is an exception, evolving from being one of the wildest Wild West outposts to the heart of Colorado’s high-altitude outdoor adventures.

Colorado’s two highest mountains, the 14,440-foot Mount Elbert and 14,429-foot Mount Massive, dominate the horizon west of Leadville. For good measure, the state’s third-highest mountain,Ěý Mount Harvard at 14,423-foot, is about an hour’s drive from town. The trio represents the three highest peaks in the whole of the Rocky Mountains. Aside from its situation amidst such resources, the town of Leadville since 1983 and 1994 has hosted major hundred-mile running and mountain-biking races, respectively. What keeps Leadville relevant and thriving today is outdoor recreation.

Leadville materialized in 1860 with the discovery of placer gold (gold extracted from eroded rock), and the mining boom was on. Gold and zinc deposits eventually took a back seat to Leadville’s dominant metal: silver. There are rumors of misdirection behind the misleading name, but the “lead” in Leadville wasn’t entirely disingenuous. Lead ore was indeed mined in the area, but it was the silver-bearing lead-ore blend called cerussite that gave the town its official title.

“Leadville” was bestowed by Horace Tabor, a developer known variously as the Bonanza King and the Silver King, in 1878 after trying out names such as California Gulch, Boughton, Slabtown, and my favorite, Cloud City.

1893 – The Year the Silver Barons Went Bust

Some of Leadville’s iconic Wild West buildings are still open for business, including the Silver Dollar Saloon, established in 1879. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

In 1880 Leadville reached a peak population of 14,820, recorded in the city’s first official census. An explosion of wealth brought along with it a desire for refined culture in a rough place. Horace Tabor fast-tracked the Tabor Opera House in 1879. Opening in the same year was the elegant Interlaken Hotel, on the shores of Twin Lakes, a gorgeous but ultimately doomed retreat for well-off visitors.

The luxury starkly contrasted with the abysmal conditions in the perilously unsafe mines. An estimated 3,000 to 5,000 miners died from 1860 to 1899 in cave-ins, explosions, and equipment accidents. A lack of safety standards (and reports on mine accidents) makes it difficult to pinpoint the number of fatalities.

The Panic of 1893 and President Grover Cleveland’s initiative to repeal the Sherman Silver Purchase Act, however, jointly tanked Leadville’s fortunes. The Sherman Silver Act had required the government to purchase a monthly allotment of 4.5 million ounces (roughly 280,000 pounds) of silver. Its revocation was the beginning of the end for Leadville’s mining prosperity—but not for the city itself.

Visiting America’s Highest City

Downtown Leadville Colorado
Leadville, Colorado, in mid-autumn. The town’s population, which hit a peak of nearly 15,000 during the mining boomtown days, now hovers around 3,000. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

Leadville is America’s highest incorporated city. At 10,152 feet, it is a mere 408 feet away from being twice as high as Denver (5,280 feet). The city’s history is rich and well worth exploring. Strategic visitors can benefit from a day or two in (and below) town while acclimating to the thin air. Moving up gradually is a solid plan for both local Coloradans and out-of-state guests who aspire to hike the high peaks.

mitch dulleck of Leadville, Colorado
Mitch Dulleck, Leadville resident, on his way up Mount Elbert, the highest peak in Colorado. Dulleck is a longtime distance runner and a Leadville 100 runner. (Photo: Brian Metzler)

Mountain hiking in the Leadville region is world-class. Seven peaks over 14,000 feet lie within an hour’s drive of Leadville, and all of them can be hiked on established trails without use of ropes or technical climbing equipment. The two highest Colorado peaks, Elbert and Massive, have trailheads less than a half mile apart.

Dozens of excellent 13,000-foot peaks explore the nearby backcountry. Ski Cooper, 11 miles from Leadville, may be moderate in terrain but captures a family-friendly, authentic aesthetic lacking in Colorado’s mega-resort ski towns. The repurposed backcountry cabins of are open to visitors year-round (though winter reservations can be challenging to secure.)

Courtney Dauwalter running in mountains around Leadville
Courtney Dauwalter of Leadville runs on Dyer Mountain, above 12,000 feet. Last year Dauwalter was the first person to win the Western States 100, Hardrock 100, and Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc in a calendar year. (Photo: Brian Metzler)

And because people are crazy, Leadville hosts two 100-mile races: the for bikers and the .

Colorado’s Highest Summits

Mount Elbert the tallest mountain in Colorado as well as in the Rocky Mountains.
Mount Elbert, the tallest mountain in Colorado. At 14,440 feet, it’s the second-highest mountain in the lower 48 U.S. states, behind the 14,4,97-foot Mount Whitney in California. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

I’ve hiked Mount Elbert 12 times at the time of writing and might have added to that count by the time you’re reading this. Mount Elbert and neighboring Mount Massive have established hiking trails requiring good fitness and altitude acclimation. Still, with proper acclimatization and preparation, they are attainable by “everyman” hikers who want to stand on the highest ground in Colorado.

Mount Sherman Colorado 14er at sunrise
The summit of Mount Sherman, one of the 14,000-foot peaks accessible from Leadville (Photo: James Dziezynski)

I could about the excellent hiking around Leadville. The 14,197-foot Mount Sherman is a great first 14er, and one route starts from Iowa Gulch on the Leadville side of the mountain. The Mosquito Pass Area has some of my favorite 13ers, including Treasurevault Mountain, Mosquito Peak, and London Mountain. These peaks don’t see the crowds the 14ers do but offer all the same great views and rolling, rounded ridge lines. French Mountain and Oklahoma Mountain are two more remote 13ers I also count among my favorites, offering wilderness solitude with the historical flashes of mining ruins. Oklahoma Mountain was the site of a plane crash in 1954, and some of the wreckage can still be seen on the mountain.

Seeing Leadville Through New Eyes

Leadville's national mining museum and hall of fame
Leadville is home to the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum, containing interactive exhibits, many gems and crystals, and accounts of hundreds of men and women who were part of area history. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

For over 20 years, my visits to Leadville were almost exclusively to climb and hike in the high mountains. On a recent trip, I decided to shift my focus and dive into the city’s brief but ample history. Rather than sleeping in one of my battered tents, I took a more civilized approach and rented an Airbnb right in town. Leadville’s compact layout makes most interesting sites a short walk or bike ride away.

The original inhabitants of the region were the Indigenous Ute and Arapaho tribes. Both have oral histories of the area going back hundreds of years. This history is told in detail at the in Montrose, Colorado, about a three-hour drive away.Ěý

Most of Leadville’s historical displays focus on the mining era from 1860 onward. I started at the . Exhibits showcase an unflinching look at the dangerous art of extracting minerals from the earth. My next stop was to a place highlighting the human toll of immigration to a cold and remote place: theĚý in Evergreen Cemetery, completed in 2023, honors over 1,300 Irish men, women, and children who sought something better in America and are buried in unmarked graves. As the eloquently states, “The Irish occupied the bottom rung of Leadville’s social ladder, worked the mines and smelters, loved, struggled, dreamed, and died young.”

Sculpture of miner with pick axe and harp at a memorial in a pine forest
The Leadville Irish Miners’ Memorial remembers over 1,300 people who lived and died in the town during the early mining days. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

Evergreen Cemetery is set in the peaceful shade of stately ponderosa pines, a mosaic of pine needles and native grasses underfoot. The tasteful memorial features a short labyrinth walkway that ends at the sculpture of a miner holding a pick-axe and a harp, one of Ireland’s national symbols.

Leadville’s mining community was represented by two major groups, including Jewish as well as Irish immigrants. Jewish pioneers’ history here has been preserved at , built in 1884 for a community that then numbered some 400 and contributed to business and municipal life.

The top echelons of Leadville society were those on the winning side of the mining equation. One was August R. Meyer, a mining engineer who built the ornate nine-bedroom atop a small hill above the city proper. You need to make a reservation to tour the grounds in winter (by phone, 719-486-0487; $10 for adults, free for ages 18 and under), while in summer the place is open Wednesdays through Sundays, 10 A.M to 4 P.M., with walk-in tours. It’s worth a look inside to see what top-of-line comfort looked like in 1878.

Into Leadville’s Wilderness

High alpine lake in Colorado - Turquoise Lake
Turquoise Lake, seven miles from town, offers year-round recreation, from fishing and camping to kayaking, paddleboarding, trail running or hiking, and nordic skiing.Ěý(Photo: James Dziezynski)

Surrounding Leadville in an 11.6-mile circle is the paved , accessible to runners, cyclists, and dogs, and wheelchair friendly. In winter, the trail is a popular cross-country ski destination. The pathway weaves through mining ruins on the south side of town, with informational signs at relevant sites. One is the dusty mine where the Guggenheim family made their fortune, prior to founding the sophisticated Guggenheim Museum in New York City.

I wished I had allotted more time to explore the whole trail, but I had a year-old border collie that was itching to explore some of Leadville’s aquatic sights: its brilliant alpine lakes.

Mineral Belt trail in Leadville where it passes through old mining ruins
Explore mining ruins and other historical locations by walking, cycling, or nordic skiing along the paved nearly 12-mile Mineral Belt Trail. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

is the perfect place for a peaceful lunch break. In the summer, the lake is a popular destination for boating, camping, and fishing. Come autumn, when I visited, it’s a much quieter scene. On this day, it was a detour en route to a hike to the restored site of the .

Most of my hiking adventures in Leadville are in the high peaks, so it was a nice change of pace to explore a new trail—one that leads to a haunted hotel from the 1800s. At least I assume it’s haunted.

dog on mountain trail near lake
The trail into the old Interlaken Resort winds along the beautiful shoreline of Twin Lakes, 22 miles from Leadville, near highway 82 to Independence Pass. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

The trail to the resort site is along a mostly flat shelf that borders the southern shore of Twin Lakes, 22 miles from town. About five miles roundtrip, with a total elevation gain of about 335 feet, the outing would be great for a family. You can even mountain bike the trail if you’re in a hurry to see the hotel.

Abandoned ghost resort of Interlaken, Leadville Colorado
You can hike to see the long-closed Interlaken Hotel, built as a resort in the 1870s and expanded in 1883 as a luxury destination with billiards and other games, horseback riding, and visiting orchestras. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

While the main hotel is closed, the long-ago millionaire owner James V. Dexter’s private cabin, built in 1895, is open to the public. Dexter bought the resort in 1883 and supported it as a luxury draw for 13 years, until Twin Lakes were dammed, a mere year after the cabin’s construction. The shoreline became shallow and stagnant, and fears of malaria and other diseases were the death knell of the once-popular resort. It was abandoned in the early 1900s.

High alpine cabin near lake in Colorado
The restored Dexter Cabin, once the owner’s residence at a grand mountain hotel, has excellent views of Twin Lakes. Visitors can even go inside to see the finished interior. (Photo: James Dziezynski)
views from inside the Dexter cabin
Views from inside the Dexter Cabin. The resort, now a ghost town, was built on the southern shores of Twin Lakes. Guests arrived by taking a train, riding a platform wagon, and finally stepping onto a boardwalk. (Photo: James Dziezynski)
Interlaken Twin Lakes shore
The shoreline at the Interlaken Resort. The old resort was open year round, with sleigh rides, skating, and skiing in winter replacing the hiking and picnicking of warmer months. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

I could easily see the appeal of such a stunning location, especially in early October when shimmering waves of hyper-yellow aspen leaves contrast with the inky waters of Twin Lakes, set in a valley below Colorado’s tallest mountains. The buildings are surprisingly well-preserved. The place looks as if it could open for business next spring.

Leadville Past and Present

Downtown-Leadville
Looking toward Leadville’s main street, Harrison Drive, at sunset. The Tabor Grand Hotel, which opened in 1885, is in the foreground. Also on the main boulevard is the Tabor Opera House, built in 1879 to bring culture to a hardscrabble place.Ěý(Photo: James Dziezynski)

I didn’t forget about our pal Horace Tabor. When Tabor was (briefly) at the top of the world, he built the , which is still in operation with guided and private tours and events. Tabor, a businessperson and industry titan who came here from Vermont, went from rags to riches and then back to rags, dying of appendicitis in 1899 in Denver, where he worked as postmaster. His wife and widow, Baby Doe Tabor, was equally famous, having lured Horace Tabor away from his first wife with her reportedly unmatched beauty. Baby Doe’s story ended 35 years later, when she froze to death, alone and destitute, in a cabin near the Matchless Mine, in her early 80s.

The House with the Eye Museum.
The House with the Eye Museum: it’s always watching. The eye is stained glass, and the museum contains items donated by the community to show life from the 1880s until 1930s.Ěý(Photo: James Dziezynski)

The list of famous people who visited Leadville reads like a who’s who from the 1800s. Mark Twain, Doc Holliday, the “Unsinkable” Molly Brown (who survived the Titanic disaster of 1912), Buffalo Bill, Bat Masterson (a Wild West lawman), Ulysses S. Grant, and Susan B. Anthony all set foot in the city. Leadville still fondly remembers its visit from Oscar Wilde in 1882. In a lecture at the Tabor Opera House, Wilde remarked upon a sign he allegedly saw in the Leadville saloon, “Don’t shoot the piano player; he is doing his best.”

Golden Burro restaurant and bar on main street, Leadville
A nighttime shot shows the historic Harrison Street with the revamped Golden Burro and Delaware Hotel. (Photo: Brian Metzler)

For a small place, Leadville has a good selection of dining options. I like to pair a visit to my favorite pizza place, (featuring a dog-friendly yard), with a stop next door at the kitschy , a humble museum showcasing the furnishings of homes from the 1880s-1930s. The Golden Burro Cafe and Lounge and the Silver Dollar Saloon are solid American dining options in historic, old-timey settings—the food is good, and don’t worry, both establishments are family-friendly.

Leadville, Where the Ghosts Are Young

Healy House and Dexter Cabin Leadville
The Healy House was a high-end residence in Leadville’s early days. The mining engineer August R. Meyer built the house in 1878, but it is named for Daniel Healy, who purchased it in 1888. Healy was one of the few Irish immigrants to Leadville who found his fortune, working his way up from mail carrier to become a representative in the Colorado state legislature. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

Historians place April 26, 1860, the day Abe Lee discovered placer gold a mile from town in the surrounding California Gulch, as the day that started the Colorado gold rush and gave rise to the human drama that would unfold, tangled in ambition, greed, luck, and misfortune. Leadville’s 2020 census showed a population of 2,633, far smaller than the boomtown days when the town was second in size only to Denver.

Leadville today may have fewer people, but the spirit of the place is far from diminished. Pivoting to outdoor recreation has created a new kind of boom that balances the region’s natural beauty with the authentic grittiness that put Leadville on the map.

We love leadville sign
We love Leadville. I bet you will, too! Just bring extra layers, because it’s up pretty high. (Photo: James Dziezynski)

The city has settled into a good place, trading its pick axes for hiking poles. Leadville’s sharp edges have been smoothed down like the towering mountains surrounding it. Summer days in the high mountains cede to relaxing evenings on the casual confines of Main Street. Take your dogs for stand-up paddleboarding on Turquoise Lake or a run on the Mineral Belt Trail. As I discovered on my most recent visit, Leadville always has more to uncover.

About the Author

Author James Dziezynski and border collie Fremont on Mount Elbert
The author and his border collie, Fremont, on the slopes of Mount Elbert (Photo: James Dziezynski Collection)

James Dziezynski is the author of six Colorado mountain hiking guidebooks and the SEO Director at şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř. The Leadville area is one of his favorite hiking destinations in Colorado—and may very well be his top-ranked dog-hiking playground. James has also written about “The 10 Best Summit Hikes in Colorado” and, near his home, “The Best Hikes in Boulder, Colorado,” as well as another gritty and gorgeous place: “This Colorado Town Is Off the Beaten Path and Full of şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř.”

Looking for more great travel intel?Ěý

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