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奥辞尘别苍鈥檚 pockets used to be functional. Soon they might be going that way again.
奥辞尘别苍鈥檚 pockets used to be functional. Soon they might be going that way again. (Photo: Alessandra De Cristofaro)

The History of Women’s Terrible Pockets

Women's pockets used to be functional. Why aren't they anymore?

Published:  Updated: 
奥辞尘别苍鈥檚 pockets used to be functional. Soon they might be going that way again.
(Photo: Alessandra De Cristofaro)

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Everyone who wears women鈥檚 clothing knows: our pockets suck. If you鈥檝e ever tried to stash your phone while hiking or running, chances are you鈥檝e been more than slightly annoyed with the lack of real estate that our pants, shorts, and dresses generally afford. Even the most functional pants鈥攖hose that advertise hip and thigh cargo pockets and hidden zippered compartments鈥攖ypically fail to comfortably provide the kind of pocket space that comes standard on men鈥檚 clothing.

For a while, I thought things were getting better. When I started writing about outdoor gear as a trade-news editor in 2015, I was introduced to hiking pants, and casual, stretchy slacks with (somewhat) fashionable cargo pockets, and hiking skirts and dresses that could store a Kindle. It seemed like pockets were trending toward bigger鈥攐r at least toward existing.

But then I dug into the history of how we got to where we are today. And I was shocked. Not only did women鈥檚 pockets start out much bigger than they are now, they also started out more spacious than what men鈥檚 clothing had to offer. So where did things go wrong? How did our hiking, climbing, and biking apparel end up with such subpar storage?

I called Ariane Fennetaux, who coauthored with Barbara Burman.聽As it turns out, storage previously wasn鈥檛 sewn into clothing; women would wear pockets on a belt around their waist, usually beneath their skirts鈥攕ort of like a stealth fanny pack. They would access these pockets (which were often made in pairs, much like we have two hip pockets today) through slits in the outer layer of their dress. 鈥淭here are lots of complaints today about women鈥檚 pockets being inferior, but there were no complaints when women had those pockets,鈥 Fennetaux says.

These pockets were huge; they were often large enough to carry snacks like oranges and apples. They were also beautiful and personalized with embroidery and embellishments, much like purses are today. Women would make their own pockets聽or make them as gifts to give to friends. And each woman had her own system for organizing small items inside her pockets.

In the beginning of the book, the authors share a 1725 classified ad from a London newspaper that offers a reward for the return of a pair of lost or stolen pockets. They contained the following items: a silver purse, a pair of gloves, a ring, a toothpick case, a handkerchief, a key, and a thimble.

Not only did women鈥檚 pockets start out much bigger than they are now, they also started out more spacious than what men鈥檚 clothing had to offer. So where did things go wrong?

Over time聽women鈥檚 pockets changed聽with evolving fashion. As dresses became more formfitting, it became harder to conceal bulky pockets underneath them. Toward the end of the 1700s, women鈥檚 storage options shifted from pockets to reticules or small purses. This is because pockets would ruin the silhouette of the dress, according to the , an art and design museum in London. By聽the 19th century, women鈥檚 clothing had started to integrate pockets that were built into their garments, much like today. The Workman鈥檚 Guide, published in 1838, contained sewing patterns for on-seam pockets. But while integrated pockets on men鈥檚 apparel were perfected, , dressmakers put them in weird, impractical places, like near the hem of the skirt. Pockets became almost politicized, as some women fought for 鈥減ocket equality鈥 while fashion trends pushed reticules and purses. Pants pockets ultimately suffered the same fate: when women started wearing pants more regularly, around World War II, the focus was initially on their function, so pockets were large and practical. But again, as fashion evolved and designs slimmed, pockets messed with the silhouettes and started to shrink and disappear.

Today, even in the outdoor industry, where apparel tends to trend more toward function than fashion, I have a difficult time finding decent pants pockets. When I hike and backpack, I usually have to store my phone in the water-bottle pouch on my pack to avoid creating a sweaty patch on my thigh or an uncomfortable bulge at my hip crease. Even my most comfortable hiking pants just don鈥檛 feel as good when I have things in the pockets鈥攖hey鈥檙e either too tight or too loose, so objects bang against or dig into my legs while walking.

The best outdoor-industry pants pockets I鈥檝e found so far are from , which makes jeans for outdoorsy people. The company has聽done a solid job of outfitting its聽women鈥檚 line with front storage big enough to hold a smartphone鈥攁 feat I鈥檝e yet to see elsewhere. Founder Bradley Spence says he wasn鈥檛 aware that women鈥檚 pants pockets were so terrible until he started the company. Originally, he was planning to make only men鈥檚 jeans, but friends and partners of the founding crew urged them聽to tackle a women鈥檚 line that would finally allow storage for more than a single tube of ChapStick. Spence thinks it鈥檚 possible other companies fail in this realm because they鈥檙e afraid jeans won鈥檛 look good with the bulges pockets can create. But to Boulder Denim, that wasn鈥檛 a good enough reason not to try.

鈥淚 don鈥檛 know exactly why other brands don鈥檛 do it, but it was so easy for us to include pockets, it didn鈥檛 make sense for us not to,鈥 he says. To create them, the company pulled together popular designer women鈥檚 jeans and studied the way the legs were stitched. It聽combined its聽favorite features into its聽own style, and improved upon them by making the pockets larger. Because they鈥檙e a bit more formfitting, the pockets on Boulder Denim鈥檚聽women鈥檚 jeans are slightly聽tighter than the men鈥檚 version, so it鈥檚 not quite as easy to slide your hand inside. But they鈥檙e still significantly larger and more functional than any other pair of women鈥檚 jeans I鈥檝e ever worn.

Guinevere Ganzel, senior women鈥檚 designer for Toad&Co鈥攚hose dresses have amazing, deep pockets that fit phones, passports, and more鈥攁nd Karenina Gonzalez, a women鈥檚 and kids鈥 designer for United By Blue, which also prioritizes storage on its women鈥檚 apparel, think there鈥檚 hope that pockets will only further evolve for the better in the near future.

鈥淧ockets have changed because phones have changed,鈥 Gonzalez says. 鈥淲e didn鈥檛 have cell phones back in the day, so we didn鈥檛 have to put them anywhere. Now聽I have to think about phones [when designing apparel].鈥

Ganzel says Toad&Co found that women are stoked to find pockets in their clothing, so it鈥檚 been important for the company to prioritize storage when designing apparel.

Fennetaux says it鈥檚 unclear exactly why women鈥檚 pockets have suffered this fate, but there are a few theories: conspiracies, for example, to force women to buy handbags or rely on men to carry their things; the impracticality of wearing pockets with slimmer fashions; and the聽aforementioned unsightliness of bulges that pockets create. Perhaps it鈥檚 some combination of all of these things, Fennetaux suggests. But one thing is sure鈥攑ockets are in the spotlight now.

鈥淭here鈥檚 definitely more of an awareness, and almost a political demand for pocket equality, on social media,鈥 she says, citing an example of聽the dresses worn at the recent Oscars, in which women posed for photos 鈥渨ith a hand conspicuously in their pocket.鈥

Ganzel鈥檚 take on why they鈥檙e not standard for most clothing is that sometimes a pocket will change the shape of an outfit in a way that makes it unattractive and therefore undesirable to buy.

鈥淲ith so many bottoms being skinny silhouettes, pockets create bumps and can hinder a good-looking pant in many cases,鈥 she says. This is why some companies will add what she calls a 鈥渇ocket,鈥 or fake pocket, where it only appears as though storage exists. Thankfully, that trend seems聽to be on the way out. 鈥淚 think people are fed up with having things that don鈥檛 function at all,鈥 Ganzel says.

Indeed聽we are. I鈥檓 just one person reviewing gear and apparel, but I鈥檝e started asking about pocket functionality when I accept products for review. I turn down a lot of clothing without them. If you鈥檙e an outdoor-industry designer reading this, hear our pleas: We want our clothes to help us go hands-free when we play outside. If it can鈥檛 fit a phone, you can do better.

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