https://youtube.com/watch?v=l9hOtNxAT08
Roughly 14 years after first competing, California native took home his in waves up to 30 feet. The 43-year-old big-wave veteran, who grew up in Santa Cruz, surfed the inaugural event in 1999. “I’m satisfied with just competing at this high of a level at such an
extremely difficult spot to surf. That already gives me a great sense of
accomplishment,” Mel told . “But this is one event that I’ve been competing in and
wanting to win for so many years, so for that it feels really, really
amazing.”
There was a lot going on before and during the event. Kelly Slater dropped out on the eve of the competition because he learned it was by the ASP. Shane Dorian and Carlos Burle pulled out of the invite because of injuries. Before paddling out, the competitors decided to . During the contest, some surfers about the lack of consistent waves—the reported a stretch of 38 minutes without a ridable wave. Greg Long surfed in his big-wave contest since his near death experience at Cortes Bank. In the end, though, Mel returned to the break he helped make famous and took the crown. “It was just complete, utter relief,” Mel told the Chronicle. “Mavericks has been so
good to me over the years. It's great to have that feeling back again.”
It was a busy day along the California coast for Mel's family, according to the . His 65-year-old father competed in a kneeboard competition in Huntington Beach. His 13-year-old son surfed in a contest at Steamer Lance in Santa Cruz. Mel now lives in Newport Beach and works a 9-to-5. He drove the roughly six hours up to Half Moon Bay to compete. “Surfing Mavericks is still a big part of my life, and it always will be,” he told .
For more, read “” in Surfer and “” in the San Francisco Chronicle.
—Joe Spring