You鈥檝e always seemed kind of immortal, dodging grizzlies and crazy things out there in the wild. But you got really sick recently. What happened?
The Head on My Shelf
Read an excerpt from聽Steven Rinella’s new book, Meat EaterI spent my first night ever in a hospital. Four nights, actually. There鈥檚 still some mystery about the exact details of my illness, but here鈥檚 the leading theory: I contracted Giardia or crypto while stupidly drinking improperly treated water from a canyon bottom in Arizona. (I was hunting coues deer.) I went up to California from there and got really bad poison oak from a wild pig that I killed and skinned. Unbeknownst to me, he鈥檇 been rolling in the stuff. A doctor in California put me on powerful steroids to combat the poison oak, which compromised my stomach鈥檚 ability to fight off the waterborne parasite I鈥檇 contracted. So things progressed from bad to worse and I developed a very painful colon infection. I was passing copious amounts of blood. The whole thing was pretty rough.
Sounds pretty horrific, and begs the question, why do you hunt?
Food is the most immediate, tangible answer. I eat a diet of wild game. But the deeper answers have to do with cultural continuity, adventure, maintaining an open and interactive relationship with wilderness. Also, I have a lot of good ol鈥 fashioned fun out there.
Tell me about your TV show.
It鈥檚 called Meat Eater, and it airs Sunday nights at 9 p.m. on the Sportsman Channel. It explores the intrinsic link between hunting and food. Our rallying cry is 鈥淜iller Hunts, Killer Foods.鈥 We don鈥檛 skimp on anything. I take viewers on the wildest and most rugged hunts out there, and then I eat the wildest and most rugged foods. It鈥檚 a blast.
How鈥檚 it different from, say, Bear Grylls鈥 Man vs. Wild?
I don鈥檛 know Bear Grylls but the title of his show implies an adversarial relationship to the wild. I don鈥檛 think that the point of being in the wilderness is to get out as quickly as humanly possible. In the woods I find things that are spiritual, redemptive, and worthy of contemplation. I don鈥檛 run around thinking, Holy shit! Watch out! And I don鈥檛 smear mud all over my face.
What do you say to people who think hunting is cruel and gross?
It depends on where the person鈥檚 coming from. If they eat meat, I ask them to explain and justify the circumstances that put flesh on their table. It's hypocritical to call a hunter cruel if you go to the store and buy chicken or beef or bacon. Someone killed those animals, and just because you鈥檙e ignorant of the details of how they were killed doesn鈥檛 make it somehow better. In my mind, it鈥檚 far more ethical to take responsibility for the killing that your meals require. Doing so leads to a much greater appreciation for the resources that we consume. On the other hand, if the person asking the question is vegan, I聽tell them that I understand their perspective. Hunting does involve death and blood and some amount of suffering. There鈥檚 no hiding that. Thinking of this leads me to an honest question that I've been wondering about: Do anti-hunters think that chimps and dolphins and wolves should all quit hunting, or just us humans?
Fair question. Think you could you ever be a vegetarian?
I doubt it. Even with all the clinical proof that it鈥檚 healthier to avoid lots of red meat, I can鈥檛 envision a life without it. That鈥檚 because hunting is my passion. And if you鈥檙e good at it, you tend to have a lot of meat on hand. Keep in mind that I also like to drink alcohol and run whitewater and climb mountains into dangerous terrain鈥攁nd there aren鈥檛 many doctors who鈥檒l say that those practices are adding years to my life.
What's the toughest terrain to hunt in?
I just got back from hunting tahr in the high-glaciated mountains of New Zealand鈥檚 South Island. You sometimes need ice axes and crampons to hunt that stuff, and you get into places where a fall is going to kill you. But for all-around general toughness, there鈥檚 nothing more aggravating than hunting on tussocks in the Arctic Tundra. A buddy equated it to walking all day on top of volleyballs that have been loosely tethered to the floor.
Your wife, Katie, is more of a city girl, and you live in Brooklyn with your two-year-old son. What does she think about all the bloody animal meat you bring home?
She hates seeing it; she loves eating it. And she doesn鈥檛 even bother rationalizing her perspective. That鈥檚 kind of what I love about her.
Is she coming around to heading out into the wild with you?
Our son is now obsessed with fishing. So she knows the out-of-doors is going to become a bigger and bigger part of her life. The other day we learned that our new baby, due this December, is going to be a girl. That night, Katie made me promise that I鈥檒l teach our daughter to hunt and fish with the same enthusiasm that I use with our son. So that tells me that the Rinella family is going to be hitting it hard.
Will it be important for your son to hunt and fish? What if he hates it?
Obviously I鈥檇 love for him to enjoy hunting and fishing. But that鈥檚 not a requisite for my love. I keep telling my wife that I hope he鈥檚 either a hardcore hunter or a ballet dancer. It鈥檚 the middle ground, stuff like soccer, that makes me nervous.
When did you start fishing and hunting?
I was fishing on my own at three, hunting small game at seven or so, trapping at 10. I started hunting deer when I was 11, but didn鈥檛 kill one until I was 13.
What's your favorite game meat?
Elk. It鈥檚 really versatile. You can use it for anything from jerky to burgers to pot roast to steaks on the grill. And it鈥檚 consistently good. There鈥檚 no such thing as bad elk. Unfortunately, I can鈥檛 say the same thing about a lot of other species. Not that that stops me from eating everything I hunt. You kill it, you eat it. If all hunters stayed true to that motto, we鈥檇 have a lot fewer public relations problems.
I鈥檝e had some of your elk. It鈥檚 delicious. Wanna share a recipe?
Rub a piece of elk loin in corn oil and then dust it in salt and pepper and put it on a hot grill. Cook just until the inside starts to warm up a little bit. Slice thin.
How much of the meat that you eat in any given year have you killed yourself?
Either I killed it or a friend killed it, unless I鈥檓 in a restaurant. We don鈥檛 bring domestically produced meat into our home. I did cook a lamb at my house not long ago, but my brother raised that on his own property and shot it with a .22 rifle.
I bet you have a freezer full of meat now. Tell me what鈥檚 in there.
For fish I鈥檝e got home-smoked bluefish fillets, striped bass, and porgies. For meat I鈥檝e got a bit of wild turkey, tahr, coues deer, whitetail deer, black bear, javelina, and wild hog. I just gave about 10 pounds away to a friend in need because we鈥檙e getting close to the fall hunting season and I need to clear out my supplies to get ready for a new influx.
What do you always take with you into the wild?
I鈥檓 such a gear snob that it鈥檚 hard for me to answer that question without compiling a very detailed list. But one thing that I really honestly never go without is a multi-tool that has a good knife and a sturdy pair of needle nose pliers. You can get through some sticky situations with one of those.
What's the best campside meal you've ever cooked?
Fire-roasted beaver tail. It鈥檚 good because it鈥檚 so unexpected. Their tails are full of a white fatty substance, not unlike the gristle on a steak. If you鈥檝e been undernourished on a long trip and you bite into that, you鈥檒l be smiling.
You're an interesting contradiction: You have an off-the-grid cabin on Prince of Wales Island in Alaska yet you also have fancy dinners in New York City on occasion with the likes of writers Jay McInerney and Bill Buford. What's that all about?
It鈥檚 honestly all about hunting. It seems that every time I meet an influential or famous person, it鈥檚 because of some interest that they have in the hunting lifestyle or the food it provides. I welcome any opportunity to cook game for the uninitiated. They always, and I mean always, come away from the meal with a positive impression of hunting. I can鈥檛 say that the skulls and antlers hanging in my living room have the same impact on people.
Well, not everyone likes to go freeze in the hinterlands of Alaska. Why do you love to be all wet and cold out there in the wild?
I like to put myself into situations where I can experience the unconfused purity of being a human predator. Situations where my circumstances are stripped of everything that is nonessential to the moment. Just me, my boots, my pack, my rifle. In those moments, especially when there鈥檚 a sense of impending violence, of making a kill, you are often gifted a beautiful glimpse of life.