黑料吃瓜网

Pro climber Abbey Smith teaching a clinic at the 2018 Women's Climbing Festival in Bishop, California.
Pro climber Abbey Smith teaching a clinic at the 2018 Women's Climbing Festival in Bishop, California. (Photo: Julie Ellison)

10 Tips for New Rock Climbers

What elite athletes wish they had known when they first started climbing

Published: 
Pro climber Abbey Smith teaching a clinic at the 2018 Women's Climbing Festival in Bishop, California.
(Photo: Julie Ellison)

New perk: Easily find new routes and hidden gems, upcoming running events, and more near you. Your weekly Local Running Newsletter has everything you need to lace up! .

At the 2018 奥辞尘别苍鈥檚 Climbing Fest in Bishop, California, we talked with professional climbers, guides, and industry workers to soak up some advice for beginners. Here鈥檚 their best advice for advancing your technique, taking care of your body, and overcoming mental obstacles.

Climb with Your Feet

Many beginner climbers think the sport is all about upper-body strength, says , an outdoor photographer and climber. But paying attention to where you place your feet often allows you to reach higher holds more easily and puts less strain on your arms and fingers. Instead of focusing on pulling on the next hold, she says to 鈥渁lways think with your feet first.鈥

Don鈥檛 Compare Yourself to Others

Negative self-talk can seem insignificant, but it may actually hinder your growth in climbing, says , a professional climber and nutritionist. 鈥淐limbing is an individual game, meaning it鈥檚 unique for each of us, and that鈥檚 the beauty of it. Make it your own thing, celebrate in the differences, and support one another鈥檚 triumphs.鈥

Stretch Your Hips

Flexibility is often overlooked, but it can help you reach different holds, creating more options for solving climbs, according to pro climber and coach Molly Mitchell. Flexibility in your hips opens the door to higher or distant footholds. She suggests this stretch: Lie on the floor in a frog position鈥攁s if you鈥檙e doing the middle splits, but bend your knees. Stretch for one minute on and one minute off for five total minutes of stretching.

Rely on All Your Fingers

鈥淎lways use your pinkies,鈥 professional climber Kyra Condie recommends. 鈥淣ot only do they make your grip position stronger, but they also help you avoid injuries.鈥

Take Care of Your Skin

鈥淲hen your skin is good, climbing doesn鈥檛 hurt as much and your day lasts longer,鈥 pro climber Abbey Smith says. She keeps her fingertips clean with a small, durable spray bottle of rubbing alcohol. Smith rests to cool down her body temperature so her hands are dry before attempts, and she files away any rough edges on her hands with fine-grade sandpaper. Post-climbing, Smith repairs her skin with an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing ointment. 鈥淣eosporin with pain relief is my favorite,鈥 she says.

Embrace Failure

鈥淯nderstand that climbing is mostly about being comfortable with failing,鈥 pro climber says, whether that鈥檚 a fear of falling, the inability to complete a certain move, or a lack of confidence. Instead of trying to push away feelings of insecurity, Harrington tries to acknowledge them. 鈥淚 felt so bad about myself every time I was afraid, because none of the boys seemed to be scared. I wanted to be like them,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 wish I had known that it was perfectly OK to be like me.鈥

Top-Rope to Learn to Place Gear

To take some of the risk out of gear placement, start on top rope, says , a guide and professional climber. She suggests new climbers weight each piece of gear and bounce-test it. Then, look closely at what the piece does under a little bit of force. 鈥淭his will not only help you learn how to place gear properly and quickly in a safe environment, but it will also help you learn to trust your gear,鈥 Oakley says. 鈥淚f pieces pop out鈥攇reat! You鈥檙e learning.鈥

Focus on Getting Better Instead of Stronger

Professional climber Jenn Flemming says this simple mindset switch helps a lot. 鈥淲hen you鈥檙e a beginner, there鈥檚 an incredible learning curve in terms of technical knowledge about movement, body position, and strategy,鈥 she says. 鈥淒eveloping competent technique will take you so much further than CrossFit or the hangboard.鈥 How to up your technique: Spend time watching other people climb, observing movement and how different people use their body in different ways. Keep an eye out for how and when climbers rest, and notice their style choices鈥攂ent versus straight arms, open hips versus back-stepping. You will get stronger naturally as you climb more. 鈥淭here鈥檚 plenty of time for training when you inevitably plateau a few years in,鈥 Flemming says. 鈥淏ut technical knowledge is crucial and something you can begin developing at the outset.鈥

Go Ahead and Fall

鈥淚 just took my first lead fall outside, and I鈥檓 climbing 5.13 in the gym. I refused to take falls, because it felt like failure to me,鈥 says Meaghen Brown, a writer for Patagonia and former 黑料吃瓜网 editor. 鈥淏ut falling doesn鈥檛 mean that you鈥檙e failing. It means that you鈥檙e working on something and you鈥檙e learning.鈥 As long as you master the proper techniques for lead climbing and you can take safe falls, don鈥檛 be afraid to jump right in and lead things at or above your limit, says Sara Nazim, a product developer at Outdoor Research.

Stay Psyched

No matter where you are in the climbing process, attitude is everything, says , a life and nutrition coach. Are you the person who brings eagerness to every climbing session, or are you the person who throws their shoes on the ground when they can鈥檛 send a project? Instead of jumping to find an excuse when you can鈥檛 finish a route, use your failure as a learning experience. 鈥淓nthusiasm and desire to learn are the character traits that really matter while learning to climb, not the grade,鈥 McCandless says.

Want to refine your climbing skills? Check out our online course on , where 黑料吃瓜网+ members get full access to our library of more than 50 courses on adventure, sports, health, and nutrition.

Popular on 黑料吃瓜网 Online