Virginia M. Wright Archives - şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online /byline/virginia-m-wright/ Live Bravely Thu, 26 May 2022 20:04:16 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Virginia M. Wright Archives - şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online /byline/virginia-m-wright/ 32 32 The Ultimate Acadia National Park Travel Guide /adventure-travel/national-parks/acadia-national-park-travel-guide/ Mon, 08 Feb 2021 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/acadia-national-park-travel-guide/ The Ultimate Acadia National Park Travel Guide

Acadia is as much an immersion in Down East Maine culture as it is a place of rugged coastal wonders

The post The Ultimate Acadia National Park Travel Guide appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

]]>
The Ultimate Acadia National Park Travel Guide

As of press time, some trails, campsites, and businesses are closed due to Covid-19 precautions. To check for safety protocols and potential closures, check individual websites before you go.

Unlike many national parks, a visit to Acadia can easily stand in for a visit to the state itself. The 49,076-acre site, predominantly located on Maine’s Mount Desert IslandĚý(MDI),Ěýis intertwined with fishing villages and tiny seasonal enclaves, and it’s not always clear where its boundaries are. Lobster boats rumble below Acadia’s cliffs as they move from buoy to buoy pulling traps. Uninhabited Bar Island, isolated from the rest of the park, is connectedĚýto downtown Bar Harbor via a strip of gravel beach, which serves asĚýa natural sidewalk at low tide. The route to Bass Harbor Head Light, one of three lighthouses managed by the park, passes through neighborhoods where yards are filled with towers of lobster traps. TheĚýAbenakiĚýpeople, who have migrated between this coast and inland Maine for thousands of years, share their continuing story at the , which has a location both inside and outside the park.ĚýYou get the picture: it’s impossible to explore Acadia without getting acquainted with the tiny communities around it, too.

When I visit Acadia, which is often, I feel I’m entering an elegant wilderness, a land hardened by glaciers and waves and weatherĚýthat’s beenĚýgroomed by human hands. That fanciful notion is rooted in the park’s history, at least on MDI, home to Acadia’s famous ocean-hugging Park Loop Road. The park’s founder and first superintendent, George Bucknam Dorr, was a wealthy MDI summer resident in the early 1900s. He spent 40 years cobbling together land parcels, using his own money and that of others he lobbied. Among his legacies are the rustic, hand-built stone stairways found on some of Acadia’s steepest slopes. These paths inspire aweĚýbecause the labor required to constructĚýthem is almost unfathomable.

John D. Rockefeller Jr. also had a hand in the creation ofĚýMDI. Aside from donating nearly one-quarter of Acadia’s acreage, Rockefeller’s 45 miles of carriage roads and stone bridges are among the park’s defining features. Like Dorr’s stairways, his wide broken-stone paths meld into the boreal and deciduous forests’ ridges and valleys as if nature intended them to be there. Rockefeller also partially financed the construction of the paved Park Loop Road. It was his way of accepting the inevitable coming of the car traffic he loathed, while ensuring the carriage roads would remain auto-free.

The Atlantic Ocean is the main attraction at Acadia.ĚýMost—though not all—activities involve finding ways to engage with it, whether that’s hiking along the coast,Ěýclimbing the many pink granite cliffs, or kayaking orĚýsailing to its offshoreĚýislands.ĚýExperience it up close at places like Sand Beach (aĚýname that may seem unimaginative to you, but it’s a testament to how rare sand beaches are around here) or Thunder Hole, which booms with rushing waves. For sweeping panoramas, hikeĚýto the top of its numerous bald peaks. However you encounter the park, you’ll sense the power that carved this land and the lives of the people on it.

What You Need to Know Before VisitingĚý

Colors of foliage in New England, USA. Aerial view
(Paola Giannoni/iStock)

You may need a vehicle reservation. Acadia ranks among the top-ten most visited national parks, yet it’s also among the smallest and most congested. Beginning this summer, the National Park Service is requiring to drive on the Cadillac Summit Road during daylight hours, including sunrise, when thousands flock to the East Coast’s highest point (1,529 feet) to watch the day’s first rays spill over Frenchman Bay. (For part of the year, Cadillac is also the first place in the U.S. to see the sunrise.)ĚýThe future promises similar plans to manage traffic along theĚýtwo-mile stretch of Ocean Drive that is home toĚýthe Jordan Pond House restaurant, where people craving an airy popover with strawberry jam and a view of the Bubbles mountain peaksĚýcircle endlessly looking for a parking space.

The Island Explorer will be your lifeline. ThisĚý is the best way to avoid the frustrating search for parking at popular destinations like Cadillac Mountain, Jordan Pond House, Sand Beach, and Thunder Hole. Island ExplorerĚýoperates all day and into the night from mid-June to mid-October. Ten routes link village centers, hotels, and campgrounds with points in Acadia’s MDI and Schoodic districts. I use it to solo-hike one of my favorite routes—the wide-open granite spines of Champlain and Gorham Mountains (park at the Tarn on Route 3, ascend via Beachcroft Path, and follow the Champlain South Ridge and Gorham Mountain Trails to Monument Cove on Park Loop Road, then catch the bus at Sand Beach for a ride back to your car).

You can bring your pup. Acadia is one of very few national parks that allows dogs, as long as they are leashed at all times. Along with trails and carriage roads, pets are permitted at the Blackwoods, Seawall, and Schoodic Woods campgrounds. The exception is Duck Harbor on Isle au Haut, though dogs are allowed on day hikes on thatĚýisland.

There’s more to Acadia than MDI. Without a doubt, you get the biggest bang for your buck in Acadia’s MDI section, with its extensive coastline, 100 miles of hiking trails, and 45 miles of car-free carriage roads. But Acadia’s other two districts, on the Schoodic Peninsula and Isle au Haut, are every bit as beautiful. Just a fraction of the park’s 3.4 million annual visitors make the hour’s drive from Bar Harbor to 2,266-acre , on the east side of Frenchman Bay. There are no mountains here and no soaring cliffs. Rather, Schoodic soothes with slow pleasures. A six-mile one-way loop road hugs the peninsula’s pink-granite shoreline, with plenty of turnouts to stop and watch lobster boats in the bay and to clamor overĚýthe wave-beaten headland at Schoodic Point. The lightly trafficked, mostly flat road makes for a terrific leisurely bike ride. Get your heart pumping on the eight miles of gravel bike trails that wind through the forest of pine and spruce trees draped with gray-green bearded lichen. Most of the 7.5 miles of hiking trails are short, but all are rewarding, and it’s easy to cobble together longer hikes. Several paths lead to Schoodic Head, the peninsula’s highest point at 440 feet.

Visiting , 15 miles southwest of MDI, takes extraĚýplanning, but it’s worth it. Slightly more than half of the 8,000-acre island is privately owned and part of the lobstering town of Isle au Haut (with a year-round population ofĚý50). The rest belongs to AcadiaĚýand receives 6,000 to 7,000 visitors annually. Eighteen miles of rugged, mostly oceansideĚýtrails are the draw. If you have time for just one hike, make it the 3.7-mile Western Head loop, whichĚýdips and rises across rocky beaches and cliffs. There are no motels and inns on Isle au Haut, only rental homes and five primitive campsites within the park’s perimeter. Likewise, there’s no car ferry and no paved roads. In summer, the local mail boat makes daily round-trips from the coastal town of Stonington to Isle au Haut’s town landing and to Duck Harbor, near the campground and trailheads.

How to Get There

Aerial view of Bar Harbor, Maine
(Ultima_Gaina/iStock)

Acadia is theĚýonly national park east of the Mississippi River and within a day’s drive of nearly one-quarter of the U.S. population. MostĚývisitors headĚýup Interstate 95 to Bangor, Maine, then southeast on Route 1A to MDI. Access Park Loop Road via one of five main entrances: atĚý, offĚýRoute 3 north of Bar Harbor; , offĚýRoute 3 south of Bar Harbor; Sand Beach Entrance Station, on Schooner Head Road, which will ; Stanley Brook, on Route 3 in Seal Harbor; and Eagle Lake Road, on Route 233. The closest major airport is Bangor International, an hour north, but more airlines serve Portland International Jetport, three hours south. The Cat, Bay Ferries Limited’s high-speed ferry, travels between Bar Harbor and Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, but service in 2021 hinges on pandemic-related travel restrictions.

The Best Time of Year to Visit Acadia National Park

Acadia Sand Beach
(KenCanning/iStock)

Winter

Acadia is nearly deserted from December to March, when temperatures range from 15 to 40 degrees. The average snowfall is 60 inches, butĚýthe amount the area actually seesĚýeach yearĚývaries. Coastal storms often throw in some freezing drizzle or sleet. A good snowfall, however, turns Acadia’s carriage roads into ideal cross-country-skiing tracks. Only a smattering of hotels are open year-round. Check out the (from $109), a large complex on Frenchman Bay with a fitness center, and the cozier (from $89), a renovated 19th-century sea captain’s house in Bar Harbor.

Spring

April is often windy and muddy in Maine, but May and June are lambs. Daytime temperatures on MDI are typically in the mid-sixtiesĚýto mid-seventies—great for hiking and biking—and the crowds have yet to arrive. Biting blackflies are a downside, so stock up on bug juice. In Bar Harbor, most hotels, inns, and restaurants open by Memorial Day weekend.

Summer

I’ve grumbled enough about the July and August congestion, so here’s the good news: the hordesĚýmostly converge at a few Park Loop Road attractions and are easy to avoid. Solitude can be found simply by stepping onto a hiking trail or carriage road. Tourist magnets like Sand Beach and Thunder Hole are well worth seeing, but you’ll enjoy them more if you go before 10 A.M. Likewise, skip the noontime zoo at Jordan Pond House and get your tea and popovers in the late afternoon. It rarely gets unbearably hot on the Maine coast. Summer temperatures hover in the high seventies. Evenings can be cool, averaging the mid-fifties, so pack accordingly. Fog may roll in off the ocean and settle thickly on shore for days at a time. Think of it as Maine giving you a hug.

Fall

Glory days. The first half of September in Acadia is summer without the bugs, humidity, and fog—just lots of sun and clear blue skies, with temperatures in the low seventies. The excellent, though cooler, weather continues for several weeks as the foliage turns crimson, gold, and orange, reaching its peak in early to mid-October. The fiery colors are mirrored in the waters of Eagle Lake, Long Pond, and Jordan PondĚýand are best experienced by kayak. See the show from a lobsterman’s perspective on a Sea Princess ranger-narrated cruise out of Northeast Harbor. Maine’s weekly keeps tabs on the changing colors statewide.

Where to Stay in and Around the ParkĚý

(Courtesy Under Canvas)

Four , open spring through fall, provide the only overnight accommodations within the park. On MDI, theĚý and campgrounds featureĚýa total of 483 sitesĚýfor primitive, drive-up, and group tenting and unserviced RV camping (from $22). Acadia’s newest campground, , has spiffy amenities like a 100-seat amphitheater and the widest range of camping options, including RV sites with electricity and water (from $22). on Isle au Haut has five lean-to shelters ($20); advance reservations are a must. None of the campgrounds have showers, but pay showers are available just outside Blackwoods and Seawall and at the on the peninsula.

There’s no shortage of private campgrounds, hotels, and inns on and around MDI. Set to open in May is glamping operator Under Canvas’s , which will offerĚý100 safari-style tents amidĚý100 acres of coastline,Ěýjust a 35-minute drive to the park (from $314). New as of 2020 is , KOA’s first luxury-camping venture, with five styles of furnished tents (from $218) and a glass-walled lodge serving meals and signature cocktails. I’m a sucker for MDI’s many vintage, family-owned cottage courts, such as (from $92). On the Schoodic Peninsula, sits across from Sand Cove on its own 200-acre nature preserve laced with trails (from $150). Owners Ben and Sonja Walter-Sundaram have renovated the property’s barn for concerts and a lecture series focusing on local and Maine history and the natural sciences.

What to Do While You’re ThereĚý

Wounded Warrior event rock climbing in Acadia National Park
(wbritten/iStock)

Hiking

The is an exhilarating 0.9-mile ascent of the sheerĚý1,000-foot cliff face on the east side of Champlain Mountain. The ascentĚýswitches back and forthĚývia narrow stone stairways, iron rungs, and one-foot-wide ledges, with nothing but a length of rebar between you and the drop-off. The views of Frenchman Bay are breathtaking—if you dare to take your eye off the path. Descend via the steep (but not very scary) Orange and Black Trail. The Precipice is usually closed part of each summer to protect nesting peregrine falcon chicks. If you’re not sure you can handle this trail, how about a trial run on the smaller Beehive? This pathĚýheads to the top of the 520-foot-high dome, which overlooksĚýSand Beach and also features a near vertical climb with narrow ledges and rungs embedded in the rock face.

Thank (or curse) the aforementioned preservationist George Dorr for the Ladder Trail, which heads upĚýthe steep east face of 1,265-foot Dorr Mountain. The half-mile trail is almost entirely a stone staircase, with a few iron rungs embedded in granite. The descent is aĚýgentle oneĚývia theĚývia the South Ridge and Canon Brook Trails, which affordĚýocean views much of the way. This workout is aĚý3.5-mile round-trip.

On the west side of MDI (a.k.a. “the quiet side”), the popular 3.9-mile loop linking 681-foot Acadia and 679-foot St. Sauveur Mountains has several steep sections and some fun rock scrambling. Make the most of the vistaĚýof Somes Sound, the East Coast’s only “fjard” (a sort of junior fjord), by extending your hike from Valley Cove to 284-foot Flying Mountain,Ěýsummiting St. Sauveur on your return: take the Valley Cove Trail to Flying Mountain,Ěýloop back on the Valley Peak Trail, andĚýfollow the St. Sauveur Trail and Man O’ War Brook fire road back to the Acadia Mountain Trailhead on Route 102, a total of 6.5 miles.

The 1.3-mile Ship Harbor Nature Trail or the 1.4-mile Wonderland TrailĚýin Bass Harbor are easy and ideal for families with young children. Both lead to rocky shorelines with lots of tide pools to explore.

Biking

John D. Rockefeller Jr. built Acadia’s carriage roads so he’d have a car-free place for his horse-drawn carriages. They also happen to be perfect for road biking, with routes that follow the contours of the land and take full advantage of magnificent views.

Advanced cyclists will like the 11-mile carriage road, which circles Parkman, Sargent, and Penobscot Mountains, climbing steadily to 700 feet. Your effort is rewarded with fantastic lookoutsĚýof Jordan Pond, Somes Sound, and the Atlantic, not to mention a long and wicked-fun descent. By the time you’re done, you’ll have crossed six of Rockefeller’s 17 carriage-road bridges, each one unique and faced with quarried island granite.

The six-mile Eagle Lake loop is Acadia’s most popular carriage road, with a couple of long, gradual ascents and descents and some relatively flat stretches. This is a good one for families with children.

I like to combine the Witch Hole Pond and Paradise Hill carriage roads for a 4.6-mile loop ride. I start at the and headĚýsouth, making my way past a chain of placid ponds and marshlands, then turn northeast toward Duck Brook (in late July, I stop to pick wild blueberries that grow along this stretch). I take a break at , not because I need it—this is an easy ride—but because the bridge, with its three high arches and turreted viewing platforms, is beautiful. Then it’s on to Paradise Hill, with panoramasĚýof Hulls Cove and Frenchman Bay, and back the visitorĚýcenter.

Paddling

Ragged with small coves, harbors, andĚýbeaches, MDI’s coast invites exploration by boat. There are plenty of rental shops in Bar Harbor. Be aware that the ocean here is cold—less than 55 degrees in summer. A wetsuit is recommended.

Somes SoundĚýnearly splits MDI in two andĚýstretchesĚýfive milesĚýfrom the Narrows, a quarter-mile-wide channel between the villages of Southwest Harbor and Northeast Harbor, to Somesville (all three villages are part of the town of Mount Desert Island). With Norumbega Mountain on the east shore and Acadia and St. Sauveur Mountains on the west, the paddling here is fairly protected, and the scenery is lovely. Northeast Harbor and Southwest Harbor both have boat ramps at the sound’s mouth, but time your trip carefully—an outgoing tide will test your strength. You also can launch from the Sargent Drive picnic area, about midway up the sound in Northeast Harbor.

Mount Desert Narrows, the channel separating MDI from the mainland, is a leisurely saltwater paddle. Put in at Hadley Point in Bar Harbor and head southwest, passing Thomas Island and the Twinnies (a pair of small islands),Ěýto Thompson Island in Thomas Bay. Return along the other side of Thompson and the Twinnies for a roughly six-mile round-trip. High tide is the best time to paddle here, since Thomason Island is surrounded by mud flats at low tide.

Harbor seals are often spotted on the eight-mile loop around the Porcupine Islands off Bar Harbor in Frenchman Bay. These five small islands, four of which belong to Acadia, offer some shelter for paddlers. Still, this is an open-sea excursion; if you’re not an experienced sea kayaker, go with a guide from one of MDI’s many outfitters. Launch from the Bar Island access road or gravel beach.

For freshwater paddling, it’s hard to beat the scenery at the mile-long Jordan Pond. The image of the small rounded mountains known as the Bubbles at the pond’s north end has been made iconic by thousands of photographers. A footpath rings the pond, making it easy to combine a paddling trip with a hike. Put in at the south end of the pondĚýnear the parking area. After your paddle, stroll over to the Jordan Pond House, where you can soak up the view once more, this time while fortifying yourself on creamy lobster stew and popovers.

Long Pond (a.k.a. Great Pond, to distinguish it from the smaller Long Pond in Seal Harbor) is MDI’s largest inland body of water, stretching nearly four miles. Much of the pond’s narrow southern half is within the park, banked by Mansell and Beech Mountains. You’ll likely see eagles, ducks, loons, and ospreys. Boat launches are found at the pond’s northern and southern ends.

Rock Climbing

With nearly 300 single- and multi-pitch routes, Acadia National Park offers a variety of mostly traditional climbs on small pink-granite cliffs. Many routes have fixed rappel stations. Several outfitters offer instruction, including Bar Harbor–based and .

Best known as the thrilling climax of a Park Loop Road scenic drive, Otter Cliff is by far the most used climbing destination. With waves crashing below them, climbers enjoy spectacular views of Sand Beach and the sea stacks at Monument Cove. Seventy routes ranging from 5.3 to 5.13, are set on the steep 60-foot cliff, which is broken up by horizontal cracks. NPS maintains some fixed anchors here; using trees is forbidden. More ocean climbing can be found at Great Head, on the east end of Sand Beach, where 37 routes range from 5.6 to 5.13b. At both sea cliffs, use extra caution at high tide and when the surf is high — waves have swept people into the sea from the base of Otter Cliff, and one climber drowned at Great Head after becoming stranded in a sea cave.

The Precipice, on Champlain Mountain’s south wall, has about 80 routes ranging in difficulty from a 5.4 to 5.12b, many with multiple pitches, thin cracks, and good corners. The upper wall looks out over Frenchman Bay, the Porcupine Islands, Egg Rock Lighthouse, and the Schoodic Peninsula.

South Bubble Mountain, overlooking Jordan Pond, is a good beginners’ destination with mostly low-angle climbing on the lower wall. Climbs on the upper slab and wall are more challenging. Routes on South Bubble are graded 5.3 to 5.10b.

Sailing

From day trips to private rentals, there are plenty of options to take in the park’s shoreline from a sailboat. Check out the outfittersĚýin the surrounding communities, and have your pick of anything from classic sloops to lobsterĚýboats.

Nordic SkiingĚý

The all-volunteer grooms more than 30 miles of carriage roads, including 3.5 miles ideal for novices along Eagle Lake’s western shore and the hilly and twisty Aunt Betty’s Pond loop. You can even ski on Park Loop Road, portions of which are unplowed. Among these is the left lane of spectacular Ocean Drive between Schooner Head and Otter Cliff Roads (it’s open to snowmobilers, but I’ve never encountered any).

Stargazing

On summer nights, hundreds of Acadia visitors stretch out their blankets on Sand Beach to lie back and gaze at the stars while park rangers point out planets and satellites and tell the stories behind the constellations’ names. The program, called , celebrates the largest expanse of naturally dark sky east of the Mississippi, accomplished through a National Park Service policy to preserve natural lightscapes and a Bar Harbor town ordinance that requires new construction projects to install shields on exterior lights so their light is cast downward. Canceled in 2020 due to the pandemic, Acadia’s annual is scheduled to resume in September 2021. A highlight of the five-day event is the Cadillac Mountain Star Party, with rangers and astronomers acting as travel guides to the sky.

Birding

Acadia isn’t well-known as a wildlife-watching destination, saveĚýone exception: birds. More than 300 species spend at least part of the year at Acadia, an important migratory bird stopover and nesting site. Hence the three-day , held annually in early June. Events include guided walks, boat tours, and talks. On your own, look for shorebirds on the mudflats around Thompson Island and Isle au Haut. Prime spots for songbirds include the carriage roads, Sieur de Monts Spring, and Jordan Pond. Nesting falcons can be spotted at the Precipice from mid-April to mid-August. Migrating raptors are all but guaranteed to be soaring over Cadillac Mountain from mid-August to mid-October. Visitors are welcome to join Cadillac Mountain Hawk Watch volunteers, who gather at the head of the North Ridge Trail to count, identify, and record each raptor they see.

The Best Places to Eat and Drink at Acadia National ParkĚý

New England Road Trip in the Fall
(Jen Lobo/iStock)

The question is not “Where can we get lobster?” because boiled or steamed lobster, served with drawn butter and corn on the cob, is available everywhere on MDI. What you want is to eat lobster at a place with a great view. The screened-porch dining room at , in the town of Bernard, stretches over Bass Harbor, where boats are arriving with the day’s lobster dinners. , with indoor and outdoor dining, occupies a stunning spot at the head of Somes Sound in the town of Mount Desert. , on the Little Cranberry Island wharf, involves a trip aboard the Beal and Bunker ferry or a water taxi.

The best lobster rolls (also with a side order of views) are found at , located on Southwest Harbor’s working waterfront,Ěýand , set among docks piled high with lobster traps in the tiny fishing village of Corea on the Schoodic Peninsula. For fine dining (without a view), , in downtown Bar Harbor, prepares Caribbean- and Latin-influenced meals with locally sourced meats, fish, and veggies. And yes, Havana serves lobster, but in unconventional ways, like moqueca, a Brazilian stew with coconut broth and rice, and paella,Ěýwith other goodies like mussels, shrimp, scallops, chorizo, and smoked chicken. For sips, try the Cuba libre, made with Gosling’s Gold rum and Mexican Coke. Feast on heaping plates of slow-smoked pulled pork, sausages, ribs, and chicken in the charming courtyard of ’s Town Hill location. Wash it down with the brewery’s signature Bar Harbor Real Ale.

If You Have Time for a Detour

(/)

Load up your kayak and head inland to the , a 14,000-acre forested reserve about an hour’s drive north ofĚýBar Harbor. Pristine Donnell Pond, which coversĚý1,138 acresĚýand hasĚý15 miles of shoreline, can easily occupy paddlers for the better part of day. FishingĚýis good for landlocked salmon, lake trout, white perch, and smallmouth bass. Loons, eagles, and ospreys fish here, too, which makes for good bird-watching. Primitive campsites, reachable only by water or hiking trails, can be found at Redman’s Beach on the pond’s east side and Schoodic Beach on the pond’s south end. Pick up the trailhead for 1,157-foot Tunk Mountain at the parking lot off Route 182Ěýbetween the towns of Franklin and Cherryfield. From Tunk’s summit, you can see the lake-dotted forest stretching to the north, as well as Mount Desert Island and Frenchman Bay to the southwest. Total mileage, with a loop around Salmon Pond to the shore of Little Long Pond, is 4.4 miles.

How to Be a Conscious VisitorĚý

Cairn trail marker, Acadia National Park
(annaphillipsnz/iStock)

You just emerged from the trees, and a panorama—ocean, lakes, forest—is revealing itself as you scramble up a granite outcropping toward the mountain summit. In your exhilaration, you grab a stone and drop it on the nearest cairn as if to say,ĚýI was here! Please don’t do that. Acadia National Park has a unique stone trail marker—the Bates cairn, named for Waldron Bates, who, like George Dorr, specialized in path making on MDI in the early 20th century. A Bates cairn consists of four rocks: two large base stones laid roughly a foot apart andĚýtopped by a flat rock, on top of which sits a fourth rock pointed in the direction of the trail. Some of the park’s cairns are originals, more than 100 years old. Excessive cairn-building, whether adding to existing cairns or creating new ones, not only mucks with that historyĚýbut also confuses hikers trying to follow a trail, contributes to soil erosion, and detracts from nature’s beauty. It’s such a nuisance that has a crew of volunteer ridge runners whose mission is dismantling outlaw cairns and educating hikers to leave no trace.ĚýResist the urge to build your personal memorial, and take a selfie instead.

The post The Ultimate Acadia National Park Travel Guide appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

]]>
Eat Your Way Through Maine on a Lobster Roll Road Trip /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-lobster-rolls-maine/ Thu, 18 Jun 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/best-lobster-rolls-maine/ Eat Your Way Through Maine on a Lobster Roll Road Trip

We tested 9 places to enjoy the classic New England food, and mapped out some adventures to have nearby, too

The post Eat Your Way Through Maine on a Lobster Roll Road Trip appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

]]>
Eat Your Way Through Maine on a Lobster Roll Road Trip

Put down the cracker and bib—in the past few decades, the as Maine’s big prize for traveling gourmands. Half the appeal is the sweet simplicity of a griddled bunĚýall buttered up and filled with fresh lobster. The other half is the setting: the best rolls are usually consumed someplace where you can smell the sea and have to . Our south-to-north guide to the Maine coast’s best lobster rolls includes suggested outdoor-rec pairings, because you may want to preemptively burn some of those calories.

(Courtesy the Clam Shack)

Kennebunk

The roll: Five and a half ounces of fresh, boiled-in-seawater Cape Porpoise lobster mixed with a little mayo, a little melted butter, or both. The Clam Shack’s roll is a delicious iconoclast,Ěýeschewing the classic split-top bun for a round, locally baked yeast roll. It’s soft as a cloud and totally works.

The scene: A tiny white shanty on a bridge over the tidal Kennebunk River, the Clam Shack isĚýsmack in the middle of the town’sĚýtrafficked tourism quarter. You can eat atĚýthe adjacent fish market or outside at picnic tablesĚýor lobster traps topped with plexiglass. The bad news: during the peak of summer,Ěýexpect to wait in line as long as an hour.

The side dish: Fried full-belly clams. Sweet and plump and cooked in a crunchy crumb coating, they rival the roll for regulars’ affections.

Explore: Surfers find consistent swells at a few minutes away: Fortunes Rocks,Ěýin Kennebunkport,Ěýand Gooch’s,Ěýin Kennebunk. , a quarter-mile west of the Clam Shack, can point visitors to the breaks and offers rentals and lessons. At the height of the season, water temperaturesĚýcanĚýeven reach the low sixties!

(Courtesy Bite into Maine)

Cape Elizabeth

The roll: You can go classic—Maine style, with mayo and chives, or Connecticut style, with drizzled butter—or go avant-garde, choosingĚýto dressĚýyour roll in wasabi, coleslaw, smoky chipotle, or yellow-curry mayo.

The scene: The Bite into Maine food truck is right next to , one of the world’s most photographed lighthouses. Lay a blanket on the grassy lawn, and watch the waves crash into the rocky shoreline.

The side dish: Nothing pairs with lobster like more lobster.ĚýThe creamy bisque has generous chunks of claw and tail and a sprinkling of chives.

Explore: The food truck is stationedĚýin the middle of 90-acre , where a mile-long loop trail skirts ocean-side cliffs and a fewĚýabandoned military batteries. Six miles south, the trails at access 41 acres ofĚýheadlands, full of tide poolsĚýidealĚýfor clambering.

(Mark Fleming)

Portland

The roll: Lobster meat dressed in brown butter, lemon, and chives, served in a split-top, Asian-style steamed bun. Purists may scoff, but Eventide’s fancy-pantsĚýroll is to die for.

The scene: The heart of district, where cobblestone streets are lined with 19th-century brick buildings housing restaurants and boutiques. ThisĚýrestaurantĚýisĚýa hip spin on a seafood shack, with indoor picnic tables and a 1,500-pound granite basin filled with ice and oysters.

The side dish: Any of a dozen varieties of fresh Ěýserved on the half shell.

Explore: On East End Beach, a dozen blocks northeast, rents kayaks and leads trips to Fort Gorges, aĚý19th-century garrison on Hog Island in Casco Bay. The two-mileĚýpaddle out crosses boat channels with heavy commercial and recreational traffic, so it’s bestĚýto go with a guide.

(Benjamin Williamson)

Georgetown

The roll: The correct order is “the Big Boy,” a roughly ten-ounce roll with lobster that’sĚýlightly dressed in mayo and overflowing fromĚýits split-topĚýpotato bun.

The scene: The setup looks straight out of a movie—picnic tables on a working wharf, menu on a chalkboard, traps stacked up nearby,Ěýlobster boats bobbing in the bay, andĚýa cluster of spruce-studded islands behind them.

The side dish: Fried things, particularly the giant onion rings, which are battered in-house.ĚýBYOB.

Explore: The tiny , immediately adjacent to the lobster shack, is a popular spot for an after-dinner stroll through mossy woods, while the , a quarter-mile south, has a trail to a little-visited, boulder-strewn beach.

Red's Eats restaurant in Maine
(nycshooter/iStock)

Wiscasset

The roll: Arguably Maine’s most famous lobster roll, Red’sĚýhas an ultra-generous portion of meat—whole claws and tails—dropped naked on a grilled split-top bun. That’s it. Extra-heavy mayonnaise or drawn butter on the sideĚýare optional.

The scene: In the pretty, historic village of , thisĚýeatery, whichĚýlooks like a little red caboose, isĚýparked on the bank of the Sheepscot River. Seating is on a shady deck behind the stand or along the grassy riverfront. The line to order can getĚýlong—waits of over an hour aren’t uncommon.

The side dish: Fried zucchini crisped in a golden, puffy batter.

Explore: Mountain bikers head across the river and down a couple miles of back roads to the , in the town of Edgecomb, where more than tenĚýmiles of crisscross a 270-foot hill called (appropriately, for our purposes) Mount Hunger.

(Courtesy McLoons Lobster Shack)

South Thomaston

The roll: The standardĚýroll, brushed with mayo orĚýbutter and filled with super-fresh meat. Lobsters are held in floating crates right next to the dining patio, then plucked from the seawater and tossed straight into a pot.

The scene: Far from the Route 1 tourist traffic—on bridge-accessed Spruce Head Island, off the St. George Peninsula—this little shack overlooks Seal Harbor, which isĚýdotted with islands and lobster boats coming and going from the McLoons wharf.

The side dish: The grill-roasted littleneck clams served with homemade garlic-herb butter areĚýsmoky, briny, and delicious.

Explore: At the tip of the peninsula, 14 miles south down ME-73 and ME-131, offers rentals and tours, including a morning paddleboard excursion around , an iconic beacon and .

(Courtesy Wharf Gallery and Grill)

Corea

The roll: Lobster for it is purchased each morning from the fisherman’s co-op across the harbor, cooked in salt water, and mixed with Hellman’s mayonnaise and a little pepper.

The scene: The deck overlooks lobster boats and wharves piledĚýhigh with traps. Former lobsterman Joe Young runs both the restaurant and an art gallery, an old fish house full of photos of mid-20th-century Corea.

The side dish: TheĚýblueberry pie—three-inch-deep wedges filled withĚýwild Maine blueberries and set in a perfectly flaky crust.

Explore: Corea is just down the road from the , which seesĚýfar fewer visitors than neighboring Mount Desert Island. SomeĚýeightĚýmiles of hard gravel perfectĚýfor bikersĚýwindĚýthrough woods and along the rocky shore, and hiking trails reach the summits of Buck Cove Mountain and Schoodic Head, offering knockout views of the Atlantic and the rounded peaks of Mount Desert Island.

Beals

The roll: Shredded lobster dressed generously with mayo and topped with a whole claw.

The scene: Connected by a bridge to the mainland town of Jonesport, Beals Island is well off the tourist track. Diners sit at picnic tables overlooking a harbor filled with fishing boats.

The side dish: Locals eschew the roll in favor of the ginormousĚýfried-haddock burger, which comes stacked with multiple fillets. But you can eat both, right?

Explore: A mile south, the Nature Conservancy’s is a peaceful place to spot seals, dolphins, eagles, and ospreys. A 4.5-mileĚýloop trail cutsĚýthrough a jack pine forest and over the island’s vast, exposed granite headlands.

(Mark McCall)

Eastport

The roll: Mix your lobster with mayo, Miracle Whip, drawn butter, or any combination of the three. Feeling snackish? The junior roll has just twoĚýounces of meat. (The regular has four, and the jumbo piles eightĚýinto an eight-inch bun.)

The scene: Quoddy Bay’s picnic tables offer front-row seats to Friar Roads, the watery passage between Eastport and Canada’s , where minke, finback, and humpback whales regularly surface in July and August.

The side dish: The yummy, comforting fish chowder—a creation ofĚýofĚýhaddock, potatoes, and onions in a creamy stock.

Explore:Ěý organizesĚýwhale-watching and deep-sea fishing excursions into Passamaquoddy and Cobscook Bays. If you want to work for your supper, offers daily trips on a lobster boat thatĚýpassesĚýbyĚýthe Old Sow whirlpool and East Quoddy Lighthouse, while the crew stopsĚýto pull traps along the way.

This story was produced in partnership with Ěýmagazine.

The post Eat Your Way Through Maine on a Lobster Roll Road Trip appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

]]>