TheĚýgreen one-pound propane bottles we all use to feed our car-camping stoves are as ubiquitous in the outdoor world as leather hikingĚýboots and two-pole dome tents, but they come with more than their fair share of problems. The biggest one? They’re incredibly difficult to recycle, andĚýlike most single-use items, they only serve us for a short time before ending upĚýin the landfill.ĚýYou’re probablyĚýfamiliar with the 20-pound propane tanks folks use to grill, which you canĚýeither take to get refilled or cheaplyĚýswap out for a fresh one.

So, why can’t you do the same with the smaller, more portable options? For starters, it’s dangerous to top off one-pound propane tanks that aren’t specifically designed to be refilled—also known as —as a result ofĚýtheirĚýthinner walls. And if the threat of an exploding steel canister isn’t enough to make you think twice, can land you some major fines and even prison time, so steer clear. There are better alternativesĚýout there. Consider one of these reusable tanks for your next camping trip.

Best Propane Tanks for Camping

Ignik Gas Growler Deluxe ($150)

±ő˛µ˛Ôľ±°ě’s Ěýhits a sweet spot between the one-pound cans that only last forĚýa few days of cooking and the cumbersome 20-pounders. It’sĚýpacked in a durable, easy-carrying canvas case as small as a stowed four-person backpacking tent, making itĚýmy favoriteĚýoption for car camping. With five times the volume of the disposable canisters, it lasted forĚýmore than a week of breakfast and dinner stove use. A four-foot hose (which packs into the carrying case) connects it to all your standard propane appliances. You’ll need to find a place thatĚýrefills propane tanks, like a propane distributor or some gas stations.ĚýBut a full recharge in Boulder, Colorado, only set me back $5—just a buck or twoĚýmore than the DOT 39 cylinders. The initial investment, even for the tank without the case ($100), is disproportionately steep, though. Hardware stores often carryĚýa selection of different-sizeĚýtanksĚýas well, which can be refilled and used in the same way as the Ignik.ĚýBut for a durable, ready-to-use package, the Gas Growler Deluxe is worth the cash.

Flame King One-PoundĚýRefillable Cylinder andĚýRefill Kit ($45)

Unlike most common one-pounders, this is rated for refilling and perfect for those who requireĚýless gas. The kit comes with a stand to flip and elevate your 20-pound tank (which you’ll use to refill the smaller one), an adapter, and the refillable bottle. The adapter is easyĚýto use, and thanks to a valve of its own, it prevents the slow leaks that can occur withĚýsimpler devices. Plus, a bleeder hole in the bottle—not a feature you’ll find onĚýthe disposable variety—means you can load up the bottle without fear of overfilling itĚýor needing to weigh it. Follow directions, wear hand protection, and steer clear of any flames.

If that sounds like too much of a hassle, brands like are offering to swap out one-pound canisters (many of which are manufactured by Flame King) at a handful of California locations. Their exchanges typically costĚýbetween $8 and $9Ěýper one-pound bottle. , a San Francisco Bay Area chain, sells Flame King bottles at cost, then refills themĚýforĚýfree forĚýmembersĚýand forĚý$2Ěýfor nonmembers.

An Exchangeable 20-Pound TankĚý

For someone in search of the highest level of convenience andĚýsavings—especiallyĚývanlifers, longer-term car campers, andĚýthose with bigger rigs—who said you can’t just tote along the 20-pounder living under your backyard grill? You’ll have enough propane to last weeks, and it can simply be swapped out for a full tank at just about any grocery store or gas station for around $20 (buying the tankĚýgenerally costs around $50). One common misconception with larger tanks is that you’ll need a separate regulator to keep the flow of gas to a manageable level.ĚýDon’t worry: these tanks have them built in.

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Price: $475
Weight: ˛Ń±đ˛Ô’s 1.2 lbs. / °Â´Çłľ±đ˛Ô’s 1.1 lbs.
Size: ˛Ń±đ˛Ô’s, S-XL / °Â´Çłľ±đ˛Ô’s XS-L

Our testers have collected a lot of great down jackets over the years, which makes packing for any particular trip a matter of choosing the right one. There’s almost always an item in our closets that matches the exact warmth and packability requirements of the mission. But when our testers added the ($475) to the collection this year, things got a little more complicated. That’s because it removesĚý the trade-off between warmth and packability that we’reĚý accustomed to.

Read more: The Best Puffies and Midlayers of 2023Ěý

Thanks to a generous amount of 900-fill down in offset box walls, as well as a heat-reflective aluminum scrim (think gauze, but with the ability to bounce body heat back at you), the Mythic Ultra was plenty warm for below-freezing summits. It was one tester’s go-to ice climbing belay jacket in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, even on zero-degree days, and proved itself a fortress of warmth on top of on a day in the low teens. The hood is helmet-compatible, but still hugs tight to the head even without a lid on, keeping warmth close to that most critical part of the body unlike any other puffy we’ve seen. (The hood is also loaded with down, which helps). Meanwhile, the handwarmer pockets are fleece lined and cozy—ideal for summits or the cold moments in between ice pitches. It also has a double zipper and internal dump pockets big enough for skins or a second pair of gloves. But do note that this jacket was almost always too warm to do anything aerobic beyond taking the dog for a walk around the neighborhood.

Despite the warmth, the snug, alpine-fitting Mythic weighs a shockingly scant 1.2 pounds. Most other down jackets of equivalent warmth weigh at least a few ounces more. The jacket is also ultra packable, stuffing into a storage sack slightly thicker than a 32-ounce Nalgene. We’ve never seen a jacket as warm as this one that packs so small. That’s thanks to the heat-reflective lining, which removes the need for extra down, but also to the ultralight 10-denier ripstop face fabric holding it all together. Don’t worry: the Mythic Ultra still proved surprisingly durable. We didn’t bushwhack in this jacket and ·É´ÇłÜ±ô»ĺ˛Ô’t recommend that type of use; but several testers jammed it into climbing packs next to ice screws, and it never failed.

All in all, the Mythic Ultra is our ideal cold weather summit parka, perfect for climbers or skiers who want a jacket that practically disappears in your pack until you get to the peak or have to kill some time standing around. It raised an interesting new question for our testers: When you have a zero-degree puffy that’s just as light and packable as lesser insulators, is there a reason you ·É´ÇłÜ±ô»ĺ˛Ô’t take the warmer one?

Back to the Winter Gear Guide

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One of the best ways to spend an evening at a lakeside campsite is with a rod in hand, tossing a couple flies toward the ripples bubbling up on the water’s surface. It’s a quiet way to pass the time, a great way to feel immersed in nature, and an even better way to supplement a dinner of rehydrated space food. Fly fishing, though, is somewhat gear-intensive: rod, flies, net, waders and boots (if the water’s too cold to get in) and more. But if packing your gear into a backcountry lake or stream is your goal, there’s plenty of lightweight and tough fly fishing gear that won’t weigh you down. These are our favorites.

Orvis Ultralight Convertible Waders ($398)

If conditions allow, the best way to fish is barefoot and knee-deep after a long day of hiking. But in reality, that kind of au naturel casting is only possible during a narrow season in specific environments. The rest of the time, waders like from Orvis will get you closer to your targets without weighing you down on the way in. The four-layer nylon fabric is burly, but the whole setup only comes in at a little over 2 pounds and rolls up a little larger than a football. A gusseted crotch and low-profile seams make them comfortable to walk in, the booties fit like a glove into boots, and there’s a pocket with a tool loop and fly patch on the upper. Plus, you can adjust the waders’ height easily from chest-high to waist-high so they’re comfy in a wide range of temps and water depths.

Simms Flyweight Access Wading Boots ($250)

from Simms could be mistaken for hiking boots thanks to a tall profile and out-of-water aesthetic, but are some of the grippiest wet wading boots on the market. The pair weighs only two pounds, 12 ounces thanks to lightweight mesh uppers (with abrasion-resistant welded TPU overlays around the rand and collar to keep them from falling apart when they rub up against boulders) and a thin—but super sticky—Vibram Idrogrip Flex outsole. Given how light they are, the flyweights are surprisingly sturdy moving around big rocks in fast mountain streams due to tall uppers (they’re not bad for short, dry hikes either). They’re a little bulky to jam into your pack, but find a place to strap them on the outside and you’ll barely notice they’re there.

Patagonia Stealth Work Station ($59)

Rather than carrying a backpack or hip pack to hold all your gear, we like Patagonia’s iPad mini-sized which is just big enough for a single fly box, some tippet and line, and a few other essentials. On a backcountry trip, there’s not as much need for the full cache of flies, spools on spools of line, and a ton of accessories (you’ll probably be limited in what you can fish, anyway) so it’s easier to curate exactly what you bring to the water. The water-resistant pouch features a large zippered pocket, two smaller zippered pockets, a couple patches for holding flies, and loops to attach your other gear. Plus, the Work Station has a pair of buckles meant for attaching it to the straps of your waders, giving you direct access to your kit.

Tenkara Sierra ($195)

Tenkara is a Japanese style of fly fishing that uses a collapsible rod without a reel; instead, a short section of line is tied directly to the end of the rod. You obviously won’t be casting as far as with a traditional fly rod, but the lightweight, durable, and simple system is ideal for small mountain ponds and streams. Enter an agile and flexible 10.5-foot rod. It comes ready to go with a longer 10.5-foot line, which makes it easier to delicately present your fly to the fish by keeping your rod tip and line high off the water. The whole system is made for casting precisely in tight quarters: It weighs just 2.8 ounces and packs down to a narrow 20-inch-long tube, making it easy to slip into your pack’s water bottle pocket.

EGO Blackwater Trout Net ($70)

The best net for backcountry fly fishing is the one you don’t spend a ton of money on: I’ve lost or left behind more nets than I care to admit, and even smashed one after setting down my pack too carelessly. But the isn’t much of a compromise. The handle is durable (and lightweight—the whole thing weighs 11 ounces) polypropylene and the replaceable mesh is PVC. It has easy-to-read measurements along the bottom of the net, making it simple to gauge the length of your catch without ever taking it out. And, at 26 inches long, it easily straps to the webbing loops on a backpack.

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Tecnica Magma S Mid GTX ($190)

Most Versatile

Most of Tecnica’s Magma line takes its DNA from trail-running shoes, and the new S Mid model is no exception. It has “backpacking boot” written all over it yet does not abandon its speed-focused roots. The S Mid is certainly light, and its snug last encourages nimbleness. Still, the 24-millimeter (in the heel) EVA midsole prevented sore feet both on Rocky Mountain trail runs and while carrying a 35-pound pack in Montana’s Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. An airy, synthetic-mesh upper and a Vibram Megagrip LiteBase sole keep weight at just over 1.5 pounds for a pair, and an oversize heel counter adds stability on descents whether you’re running or hiking. “As someone who appreciates the dexterity of trail-running shoes but the support of midcut boots, the Magma S Mid struck the perfect balance,” said one tester. A Gore-Tex lining kept out precip and handled sweat well while she hiked in Colorado’s Golden Gate State Park on a day “hot enough to fry an egg.” 1.6 lbs (men’s) / 1.4 lbs (women’s)

Salewa Wildfire 2 ($140)

Best Approach Shoe

Few approach shoes are actually comfortable for hiking. The new Wildfire 2 is the exception. It feels more like a light hiker, without losing its chops on technical rock. “This shoe was a joy to wear on rolling dirt trails below treeline but still gave me plenty of confidence once I hit the rock,” one Alaska-based tester said after wearing the Wildfire 2 for three days of hiking and ridge scrambling in the Chugach. A relatively beefy EVA midsole absorbs shock, and the outsole’s four- to five-millimeter lugs grab dirt (a capability you also don’t see a lot of in this category). The most unique feature is Salewa’s adjustment mechanism. While other Salewa shoes have a static cable that wraps the heel to link the laces to the heel cup, the Wildfire uses a dynamic nylon cord. Leave the cord uncinched for a nimble, flexible fit on the hike in; when it’s time to climb, tighten the lacing to simultaneously cinch the heel cord, lower the volume, and increase precision. The shoe’s nonwaterproof, mesh-and-TPU upper breathed well into the seventies. This shoe isn’t made for carrying large loads, but it kept our feet comfy under a 35-pound climbing pack. Bonus: an included multipart insole lets you customize the shoe to the volume and width of your foot. 1.3 lbs (women’s) / 1.6 lbs (men’s)

Asolo Eldo Mid LTH GV ($195)

Best for Protection

Is shoulder season your favorite time of the year? The Eldo Mid can slosh through water and mud with the best of ’em. This light hiker pairs a Gore-Tex waterproof-breathable membrane with a nigh-impenetrable (1.5- to 1.7-millimeter-thick) suede upper to keep your feet dry. “My feet were only a little damp—rather than drenched—after three hours of hiking through wet vegetation,” said one tester after navigating flooded trails, soaking brush, and deep mud while hunting for blueberries in Alaska’s Chugach Mountains—an impressive accomplishment for shoes in this category. All that waterproofing takes a toll on breathability, though: our tester was sweating big-time in temps over 60 degrees. The polypropylene lasting board and midheight cuff were enough to support a multi-day pack while we hiked around Ship Lake Pass. Our tester was also impressed with the minimal break-in time, especially for a mostly leather boot (credit the supple suede). 1.6 lbs (women’s) / 1.8 lbs (men’s)

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Vasque Torre AT GTX ($200)

Best for Big Loads

Boots designed for carrying heavy packs are typically, well, heavy. The Torre AT turns that paradigm on its head with lightweight materials that provide surprising responsiveness under big loads. A thin (but still durable) suede and mesh upper and Vibram’s ultraslim LiteBase outsole both shave ounces, helping keep the Torre AT nimble as you stride. A proprietary EVA compound midsole provides enough cushion and rebound for you to comfortably shoulder a 45-pound pack, though, and a seven-inch ankle cuff adds support. The boot’s Gore-Tex membrane kept water out during stream crossings in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, and breathability was impressive: “Even while I climbed switchbacks in Bear Canyon outside Boulder, Colorado, in 70-degree temps, my feet got only mildly sweaty,” one tester said. Note: some found that the boot required a break-in period similar to other burly models, and that the first few hikes prompted a few blisters. 2.4 lbs (men’s) / 2 lbs (women’s)

Astral Rambler ($110)

Best for Trail-to-Town

The Adirondack High Peaks are known for unforgiving trails, so if a casual-looking shoe can handle them, it’s tough. On a hike up New York’s Porter Mountain, where the path morphs from rubble and roots to steep slabs, the Rambler’s responsiveness and grip impressed. Its sticky rubber outsole performed well on scrambles (though the widely spaced lugs struggled in loose dirt). A beefy tongue and broad laces held our tester’s feet in place for the descent, and when the hike was over, she wore the Rambler for a celebratory beer in Lake Placid. The hemp-and-polyester upper is surprisingly durable and—bonus—looks swanky in town. A soft EVA midsole lacks the support for anything heavier than a light overnight pack, but it can handle any day hike you throw at it. Ventilation holes help the nonwaterproof Rambler dry quickly on wet outings. 1.2 lbs (women’s) / 1.3 lbs (men’s)

Danner Panorama Mid ($140)

Best for Durability

Navigating New England’s rocks and steep trails is a tall task, but the Panorama took one of our testers through a full season of Northeast hiking without a hitch. That’s thanks to a tough, 1.6-millimeter-thick suede upper and a beefy leather rand, as well as a wraparound rubber outsole. “I haven’t noticed a single stitch that’s come loose,” our tester said after traversing craggy, salt-washed terrain in Maine’s Acadia National Park and boulder-strewn paths in the Whites. A pliable upper and cuff meant the boot maxed out around 30 pounds. The outsole provided proficient traction on slabby summits: “I typically hike with my trekking poles but felt very secure without having to use them at all,” one tester said. The suede’s water-resistant treatment failed to impress and absorbed a little water, but a waterproof membrane kept our feet dry. 2.3 lbs (men’s) / 1.8 lbs (women’s)

Keen NXIS EVO Mid WP ($190)

Best All-Arounder

The Nxis Evo Mid may not stand out in any one category, but this boot does everything well. It’s supportive, breathable, comfortable straight out of the box, and provides adequate traction for most trails. The 15.5-millimeter-thick EVA midsole helped us wield a 40-pound pack for four days of hiking in Montana’s Beartooth Mountains. Another helpful feature is a metal cable that wraps around the heel for a snug fit when you tighten the laces up front. A waterproof-breathable membrane, bolstered by an airy-yet-durable synthetic mesh upper, was impressively breathable even at the height of summer. After four months of testing, the Nxis looks brand-new save for a couple nicks on the sole. Note: if you’re wary of Keen’s typical aesthetic, this boot has a clean, updated look (though it still rocks the signature rubber toe). 1.5 lbs (women’s) / 1.8 lbs (men’s)

Merrell Moab 3 Mid ($120)

Best Value

The Moab is one of the most popular hiking shoes on the planet for a reason. Not only is it affordable, it’s also capable enough for day hikes and overnnights alike. This updated third iteration improves support and comfort to handle larger loads than before. A redone EVA midsole with more rebound and longevity (thanks to an added polymer) amps up the support of this lightweight boot: one tester remained comfortable even carrying 45 pounds of water and gear in Idaho’s Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve. That’s bolstered by a new, more cushioned footbed. Meanwhile, the Vibram outsole held tight to loose dirt. The Moab 3’s mesh-and-leather upper grants breathability on hot days (the boot we tested isn’t waterproof, but a waterproof version is available for $25 more). 1.8 lbs (women’s) / 2.1 lbs (men’s)

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You have to be a little bit of a masochist to spend much time on Denali. In the early season (beginning of May),Ěýtemperatures regularly plunge to 20 below on the upper mountain. You have to be willing to suffer a tadĚýin that environment, but that suffering can get out of hand quickly without really warm gear.

When my team and I flew onto the Ruth Glacier on May 8 last year, we went prepared for serious cold. We didn’t reach the summit, but we did get a good taste of all the weather Denali had to offer. After two winters in Colorado testing every item, seeking out the best approximations of Alaska (mainly the lowest temps, strongest winds, and most exposed campsites the Rockies have to offer) to double-check that everything performed, I was confident in the gear I took up the mountain. Here’s what kept me warm and comfortable while climbing in Denali’s 40-mph winds and subzero temps.

Scarpa Phantom 6000 Boots ($949)

Choosing what boots to pack for a trip like Denali is tricky. You need a single pair that breathes well enough on the lower glacier, where daytime temps are in the fifties, and can still keep you warm on summit day when it can be 70 degrees colder or worse. I also wanted something with a toe and outsole precise enough for more-technical climbing. A good compromise between limitless warmth (and bulk) and a bit of precision was with . The Phantoms use PrimaLoft Micropile and EVA to insulate enough for 90 percent of the mountain, but on the coldest days I could slip the neoprene overboots over the top for extra insulation. My feet don’t typically have major issues with cold, though. For my climbing partner who suffers from chilly extremities, , with even more insulation and integrated overboots, were a one-stop shop.

Feathered Friends Down Booties ($119)

While the Phantom 6000s do have internal liners, they tended to get wet over the course of the day, especially on the lower mountain, where warmer temps made my feet sweat and mushy snow dampened them on the outside. So I got in the habit of slipping out of them as soon as we arrived at camp and finished digging, dropping the shells in the vestibule of my tent, slipping the sweaty liners into my sleeping bag, and sliding on my . Cozy 800-fill down felt amazing after a long day in constricting boots, and the removable weather-resistant shell made it easy to step outside to pee or hang in the cook tent without getting them wet and ruining my foot warmth.

The North Face Summit Futurelight Belay Mittens ($165)

If there’s any item to bring in excess onto Denali, it’s handwear. I brought three pairs of gloves, plus these beefy , so I could fine-tune my selection for the conditions of the moment and get a set wet without being totally out of luck. Unlike my feet, my fingers get cold quickly. And thanks to an internally split finger compartment, these mittens allowed just enough hand function if I needed to ditch my lighter gloves for something warmer midclimb. This is where gear confidence is key in the Alaska Range. If you know you can reach into your pack and have warm hands whenever you need them, you’ll feel exponentially better about your preparedness.

Smartwool Mountaineering Extra Heavy Crew Socks ($25)

Socks, like gloves, are most effective in numbers. Expect them to get wet and need continuous drying, usually in your sleeping bag near your chest at night. I needed only three pairs of these for a two-week trip: a couple pairs in daily rotation that held their shape and didn’t get smelly thanks to their sturdy woven arch brace and merino’s odor-resistant properties, plus a pair sealed in a Ziploc bag specifically for summit day. The extra-heavy weight was necessary for the colder days (and I sized my boots specifically to fit them), but the breathable, wicking merino kept them from becoming totally useless on warmer days. Setting aside a set that had kept me warm for soggy hikes and windy climbs and unwrapping those summit socks once we made the decision to turn around was definitely bittersweet.

Therm-a-Rest Polar Ranger -20 Sleeping Bag ($750 and up)

Even in a place where the sun never fully sets during the summer, conditions change a lot at night. When the sun is just skimming across the horizon and ducking behind other peaks, all the heat that the sun baked into the snow and rocks during the day evaporates—fast. A sleeping bag like the (designed with the help of Polar explorer Eric Larsen), with 800-fill down insulation (which doesn’t wet out with a little moisture), is crucial for a good night’s sleep in extreme cold and wet. The hood’s magnetic openings made it easy to tuck my face away from chilly air, and on stormy evenings when I was killing time in bed, I could slide my hands out of the arm holes to read a book without unzipping the bag.

Patagonia Grade VII Down Parka ($899)

I brought only three different upper-body layers to Alaska: a lightweight active insulator, a midweight synthetic puffy, and a massive parka. The versatility that would come from adding an additional layer to this kit wasn’t worth the space it’d take up in my pack. But that parka was a doozy. The massive baffles kept the 800-fill down lofted and maximally insulating, and the extra coverage from the long hem and big helmet-compatible hood provided nearly instantaneous warmth during my trip. The snow skirt, elastic cuffs, and elasticized side panels ensured a snug, warmth-retaining fit, but there was still room for my other layers underneath when necessary.

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm Sleeping Pad ($230 and up) and NEMO Switchback Foam Pad ($55)

Two sleeping pads are better than one, especially on snow or ice. Your sleeping bag isn’t something to skimp on, and neither are your pads—without sufficiently insulating ones, your pricey down bag won’t be as effective at retaining heat. Most climbers you see on Denali use a super-insulating inflatable pad with a foam pad underneath. I went with the , which has a crazy-high 6.9 R-value (the rating for how resistant to heat flow, or insulating, something is; the higher the number, the more resistant to heat transfer) and the , which adds 2, bringing my cumulative R-value up to almost 9. Both pads pack down small (I carried the foam pad strapped to the side of my backpack, and the XTherm is about the size of a disposable water bottle). And, conveniently, the XTherm comes with an inflating bag that makes blowing it up a whole lot easier in the thin air.

Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pants ($175)

are one of those pieces of gear you never knew you needed until you tried them. On chilly overnights in Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, they were an epiphany. Just slap them on over your ski bibs or climbing pants (no need to take your boots off—they have full-length side zips) for instant and appreciable warmth. In Alaska, they were perfect around camp at night or sitting in our group kitchen tent. They’re synthetic (using Mountain Hardwear’s proprietary Thermal.Q Elite insulation), so not as packable as down but more durable than down for sitting or kneeling. The 20-denier nylon ripstop fabric on the knees and seat held up to wear and tear.

40 Below Bottle Boot ($40) and Insulated Food Bag ($20)

Because of the technical route we chose for our trip, it was easier and more time-efficient to pack cook-in-the-bag dehydrated meals rather than bulky ingredients (not to mention the minimal cooking space higher on the mountain). With a stove like the , which has a wind-blocking design and efficiently sips fuel, getting the water hot was no problem—but once we added it to our food, we had to find a way to keep it warm while the food rehydrated (which takes extra time at altitude). The is a neoprene pouch that helps the cook-in bags, which are insulated with much milder climates and shorter cooking times in mind, retain heat while your chili mac rehydrates. A loop on top lets you hang the whole thing in the tent and keep it from tipping or getting crushed. The brand’sĚý is also a staple on Denali to prevent water from freezing. You’ll still want to keep fluids in your backpackĚýon really cold days, but the neoprene sleeve keeps your water from turning to a block of ice.

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I’ve had aĚýtrip to climb Denali on the horizon for two winters now, which meansĚýI’ve had more than enough time to prep. Planning the food you’re going to eat is one of the most tedious and critical tasks on a long expedition—and probably one of the most important when nearly every day of that month will be spent exerting massive amounts of energy.ĚýEven something as seemingly small as snack choice can take, in my case, almost two years to perfect. It allĚýstarted with an experiment in the fall of 2019: How many different adventure fuel options could I try before heading to Alaska? That experiment necessitated some organization, so I began logging every snack I’dĚýtaken hiking, climbing, skiing, backpacking, and more into a massive spreadsheet I called the Snack Tracker 1000. Along with the name and flavor of the product and a rating based onĚýhow much I enjoyed eating it, I would input details from the wrapper: a pile of nutrition facts and the weight of the product. And then I let Google Sheets do its best Ěýimpression to spit out a final Snack Value Rating. Here’s what I learned.

The Starting Point: Breakfast and Dinner

For most trips, including my Denali expedition, breakfast and dinner are fairly predictable. Ideally we’re eating each at camp, which means these meals can be a little more traditional. Our meals—custom designed and dehydrated by —are set up to have everything we need. But throughout the day, while we’re moving and don’t have access to a stove or kitchen, it’s more efficient to throw out the idea of “lunch” in favor of taking in smaller numbers of calories consistently interspersed between our two big meals. That’s where snacks come in.

What Is the Ideal Snack?

Calories are the obvious place to start when it comes to planning your food for a big mission. Everyone has different caloric needs (one way toĚýcalculate yours is byĚýusing the )—we decided to shoot for approximately 3,000Ěýcalories per day. Our breakfasts and dinners took care of between 1,000 and 1,200 calories each, which meant we had roughly an additional 1,000 calories to slowly take inĚýthroughout the day.

, a dietitian for the mountain athlete training program company , recommends refueling every 60 to 90 minutes throughout an active day, which is somewhere in the ballpark of 200 to 300 calories at a time—much more than that, and your body will have a hard time processing while you keep moving.

In terms of the breakdown of those calories, Dent recommendsĚýa good mix of both carbohydrates and proteinsĚýthroughout the day: roughly in a four-to-oneĚýratio. While you’re active, your body will need carbohydrates (and burn them more quickly), but introducing proteins throughout the day, rather than simply resupplying them at the end of the day, will help keep your longer-term energy stores up.

On an expedition, of course, another critical factor in snacking is how much of these things—calories, carbs, and proteins—you get for the weight you need to carry. For obvious reasons, the more nutrients packed into a set weight, the less you’re going to need to carry, and the more bang you’ll get for your backpack’s buck.

But at the end of the day, according to Dent, “The most important thing is that when you get out there, you have foods that you’re going to want to eat.” Mixed with vigorous exercise, cold, and elevation, not everything is going to be palatable. “At home, everything tastes good,” Dent said, so she recommends trying all your options out in the field before a big trip.

How to Calculate It

Step one in using involves trying the food and rating its favorability: How much do I like eating it? Then I input the nutrition facts into their own columns (per package, rather thanĚýper serving, to make the math easier), as well as the product’s weight. Here’s where the math starts: dividing the number of calories by the weight gives a relatively simple calories per ounce—the snack’s weight efficiency. The higher the number, the more energy you get for what you have to carry. (For fun, you can do the same math with carbs and proteins to see which items are better at packing each of those nutrients into their size.)

From here, my goal was to see which options best accomplishedĚýtwo things—got as close as possible to that four-to-oneĚýratio,Ěýand packed them as efficiently as possible—with the hope that by focusing on those that did the best of each, I could optimize both my nutrition intake and pack weight. I used three formulas to do this:

Nutrient Score=ABS((4/(Carbs/Protein))-1)*100

This spits out a score for each snack that rates it on how close it is to that ideal carbs to protein ratio. A score of zeroĚýis a perfect four-to-one. (I used an absolute value fuction here to make sure the value is always positive, to make for easier ranking.)

Caloric Efficiency=(Weight/Calories)*5000

This formula is the same as the calorie efficiency I already calculated, but scaled to roughly match the carb to protein score, and it flips it. The lower the number, the more calorie-dense it is.

Snack Value Rating=Nutrient Score+Calorie Efficiency

Finally, this Mystery Formula combines the two scores to make the ultimate Snack Value Rating, evaluating how well the foods do both things.

The Results

Out of the almostĚý70 snacks I tried, the top choices according to the Mystery Formula are a mix of classic standbys and surprising winners. At the very top of the list are products like Clif’s and , thanks to a particularly impressive Nutrient Score: both have between 3.7 and 4.6 carbs for every gram of protein. But they’re equally efficient packers.

Also high on the list are various different chocolate and candy bars like Snickers and , with a grocery store brand 70 percent cacao bar taking the cake. Chocolate like that is particularly calorie-dense and has enough protein (from dairy, and nuts in the case of a Snickers bar) to score well on its Nutrient Score. While you ·É´ÇłÜ±ô»ĺ˛Ô’t want your snack budget to consist solely of these sweets (they’re loaded with fast-acting sugars and don’t have a lot of the antioxidants and fibers you also need), Dent says you definitely shouldn’t countĚýthem out. “Ultimately,Ěýit comes back to do you like it and will you eat it,” she said. And in the case of candy bars, the answer is more often yes, making them a great option, especially for high altitude or during high exertion when other snacks might not go down.

At the bottom of the list are protein-heavy products like jerkys and meat sticks, which score so poorly largely because their overzealous protein content throws their Nutrient Score to the moon. Dent says there’s still a place for them, though. Not only do they add some variety in flavor and texture (making them easier to eat alongside other more homogeneous-textured options), but they can help make up for protein lost in your candy bar selections. Dent suggests pairing them with your carb-heavy snacks: the protein they provide is necessary, but is slower acting and won’t benefit you very quickly.

In the end, the Snack Tracker 1000 will never be the end-all-be-all solution for adventure snacks. Variety—in flavor, texture, and type—is critical to your nutrition over a long endurance activity. But by training an eye toward the right balance of carbs and proteins as well as the weight of each snack, you’re more likely to get everything your body needs, without breaking under your pack weight.

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Skiing in a pair of well-fitting boots in bottomlessĚýpow is snow-sports nirvana.ĚýAnd ill-fitting boots? Well, that’s undisputedly the opposite—painful and unresponsive—regardless of conditions. Making sure your feet have the room they need toĚýflex, swell, and stay warm, all without sacrificing the stiffness your boots need to effectively drive your skis is critical to enjoying your time on the slopes. And because no factory fit is perfect for everyone, you’ll probably need some way of molding them to your feet. Here’s how to do it yourself—with a few variables to considerĚýbefore you start.

Should You DIY?

UndoubtedlyĚýthe most reliable way to go is to put your trust in boot-fitting experts to precisely tune your new kicks to your feet. Many manufacturers recommend going this route. If you have unusual feet (abnormally wide or narrow), old foot injuries (especially screws or plates), bunions, or other special concerns, you’ll probably save yourself a lot of time and discomfort by going to a professional who can analyze your feet, build you custom footbeds, or do more extensive work to your boots.Ěý

(liners with uppers that fold around the leg and overlap on the side, rather than using a traditional tongue) are tricky enough to make them worth a professional’s touch as well. And according to Jonathan Lantz, president ofĚý, first-timers would benefit from getting the perfect fit from a boot fitterĚýso they can get a sense of how the idealĚýfeels on their feet.

But once you know what you need and like in boots, an expert’s attention might not be necessary. “We know a lot of outdoor people are do-it-yourself people,” says Lantz. “It’s possible to mold your liners at home.”

“Our home-fitting method is basically foolproof,” says Crystal Maguire, president ofĚýIntuition, the industry’s top brand of replacement liners. “The only way you can really mess up the liners is by heating them too long, or at too high of a temperature.” While it’s difficult to irreversibly destroy your liners, if you do, say, leave them in the oven until they’re a pool of melted foam, you’ve definitely voided your warranty. Otherwise, you can just heat them up and try again.

One caveat: molding your liners isn’t going to magically make them fit. Always try them on first with any orthotics or footbeds you plan to use to make sure they’re not too small (molding won’t make them bigger) or too large.

Heat Them Up

Heating may be the trickiest part of the process, only because the critical temperature varies amongĚýbrands or even liners, which often have different thicknesses and materials. Intuition provides . (Lantz says La Sportiva uses the same foam as Intuition, though his brand also provides directions.)ĚýIt recommends filling a thin stocking (which comesĚýas part of theĚý, $16) with three to four pounds of short grain-rice (because it holds heat better than other types) and tying it off, then microwaving it. Intuition recommends heating the rice for four to sevenĚýminutes, depending on the wattage of your microwave—the rice should be too hot to touch (pick it up by the knot), but be careful not to singe or burn any part of the sock.

While the rice is heating, remove any footbeds from your liners. Once your rice is hot, drop the sock into one boot liner, tapping the exterior to work the rice all the way down into the toe box and filling as much of the linerĚýas possible. Depending on your shoe size, you might need two rice-filled socks to do this. Let the sock rest in the liner for four to 12 minutes (for Intuition liners, use ). “The liners will go from feeling stiff to soft to the touch—malleable, but not squishy or mushy,” says Maguire.Ěý

It’s also possible to heat liners up in the oven directly, rather than dealing with rice, but this is where youĚýriskĚýmelting issues, which is why Intuition doesn’t recommend it. First check that your liners don’t have any plastic pieces that could be damaged. La Sportiva recommends heating its liners to 266 degrees—and this is a good target for liners made of similar foam. Preheat your oven to slightly beyond that temperature—in this case, about 300 degrees—then turn the oven off. You want to use the residual heat, and some of it will be lost by opening the oven door.Ěý

Lay one liner (footbed removed) on its side on a wooden cutting board and slip it into the oven. Turn the light on and watch it. After just a couple of minutes, you’ll start to see it sag a little bit under its own weight. That’s when you want to pull it. As with the rice method, you’ll want it to feel spongy and soft but not mushy or floppy.Ěý

Mold Them to Your Feet

Whichever heating method you use, once your liners are hot, you’ll need to move quickly. Don’t panic: just have everything ready to go ahead of time. Remember, if you mess up, you can always try again.Ěý

Insert your footbed into the liner and slip the liner into the boot shell. Put on either an Intuition toe cap (also included in the kit) or a piece of an old extra-thick sock (think , cut off to just cover your toes) and then a thin ski sock (Intuition recommends using one of the stockings in its kit). Pro tip: it’s a good idea to get this sock and toe cap on while you’re waiting for the liner to warm. Smooth out the sock before you put on your boot, making sure there are no creases or wrinkles.

When the boot is on, pull up gently on the tongue and back of the liner, and then give your heel a couple of sharp taps on the ground, pushing it into the back of the boot. Buckle your boots one to two notches tighter than you would usually, so there’s a little extra pressure. “In situations where the liner was extremely snug before molding, you want to buckle as tight as you can without deforming the shellĚýfor maximum results,” saysĚýMaguire. It seems counterintuitive, but buckling tighter creates more space in your linerĚý(if you need it), while keeping it looser compresses the liner less (if it already fits well).Ěý

Once you’re buckled in, stand up and place your toes on a two-by-four or thick phone book and lean into the tongue of the boot with your knees bent as if you were skiing. (Even though you’re only molding one boot at a time, it helps to do this with both feet.) Sit tight until the liner cools down to near room temperature—this could take anywhere from five to 15 minutes depending on the thickness of your liner. While you’re hanging out, wiggle your toes as much as possible. It will feel difficult, but once you’re skiing, you’ll be grateful for the extra bit of space.Ěý

Inspect Your Work

Take your bootĚýoff and give your handiwork a look, checking for creases or folds on the inside of your now cool liner. If everything looks smooth, repeat with your second liner, then try them on with your regular ski socks—or better yet, take them out to the hill for a couple of test runs. Hot spots? The foam will mold to some degree from the heat and pressure of your foot, so you might be able to push through mild, general pressures until they work themselves out. But for more precise fixes or intense pressures, use a smaller rice-filled stocking to heat up just the problem area and, Maguire recommends, push it out with the rounded back end of a screwdriver until you have the shape dialed (or just slip your foot inĚýif it’s hard to reach).

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Until recently, 1,000-fill down has been a rare commodity. Jackets that included it wereĚýalways few and far between. But this year, there will be more of it than normal, giving weight weenies new options for ultra-packable warmth. Don’t get too excited, though: quantities will be limited, and prices will be steepĚýrelative to what we’re used to.ĚýMountain Hardwear, for example, initially only madeĚý2,000 of its flagshipĚý ($375), whereasĚýyou can likely snag itsĚýbestselling , and for $50 less. IsĚýthe extra fill power, and two-ounce weight savings, really worth the hunt?

Down Math

Calculating fill power is a helpful way to judge the weight-to-warmth factor of different down jackets. Fill power is a measurement of the quality of the down, and it’sĚýthe approximateĚývolume in cubic inches of one ounce of down.ĚýSo one ounce of 650-fill down takes up approximately 650 cubic inches of space, one ounce of 850-fill down works out to 850 cubic inches, etc. It’s important to note that fill power does not necessarily equate to warmth. Here’s what the numbers mean: Because 1,000-fillĚýdown is high in volume, it’sĚýnot asĚýdense as other fillsĚýand has more room to trap air within the plumage. A jacket withĚý650-fill down takes up less volume than one with 1,000-fill down,Ěýso it’s denser and has less space for warm air. But when it comes to warmth, what really matters isĚýhow muchĚýof that down is stuffed into the jacket.

We’ll use Mountain Hardwear’s Ghost Whisperer UL as an example. ThisĚýjacket features two ounces of 1,000-fill down (this important measurement isĚýfrequently notedĚýalongside the overall weight of many jackets on the product page,Ěýthough not every brand lists it), which means the volume of the down is roughly 2,000 cubic inches. Keep in mind that warmth is tied to volume. So a jacket with 2,000 cubic inches of 800-fill down should be just about as warm as an otherwise identical jacket filled with 2,000 cubic inches of 1,000-fill down, like the Ghost Whisperer UL—the 1,000-fill version will just be lighter.

But how much lighter? Using a little high school algebra, we can work backwards, dividingĚýthe Ghost UL’s 2,000Ěýcubic inches of down by 1,000 fill to determine that the down weighs two ounces. How does that compare to an 800-fill jacket? The same 2,000 cubic inches (meaning the jacket is exactly as warm)Ěýdivided by 800 fill yields 2.5 ounces. Even a 650-fill jacket of the same warmth weighs only three ounces. In smaller jackets, the weight difference from 1,000 fill to 850 might be minimal, though the difference could be larger in products like sleeping bags, which use tens of thousands of cubic inches of down.

SoĚýwhile fill power definitely shaves ounces for those looking to slim down their kit, the weightĚýdifference in many jackets is minor, and realĚýweight savings areĚýlikely to come down to everything around the down. If manufacturers spendĚýbig bucks filling their jackets with 1,000-fill down, it’s likely because they’re trying to make them superlight. That means they’ll also try to keep the weight of the fabrics, zippers, and other features to a minimum. But if weight is less of a concern, they might boost durability and function and use cheaper down.

How IĚýTested

I took these jacketsĚýbackpacking, ice climbing, and backcountry skiing across the West between the fall of 2019 and the summer of 2020.ĚýTemperatures ranged from the low fiftiesĚýto bitter single digits below zero. Given the variety of jacketsĚýand their differing warmths, each generallyĚýfell into its own optimal activityĚýand temperature ranges. (The latter is aĚýsubjective assessment based on my body, what I wasĚýwearing with the jackets, and the activity of the day.)

Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer UL ($375)

Best For: Nerds obsessed with ultralight tech
Weight: 6.7 ounces (men’s medium)
Down Weight:Ěý2Ěýounces
Optimal Temperature Range:Ěý50 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit

There may never have been a more fully featured down jacket at this weight—orĚýat leastĚýI’ve yet to see it. Largely thanks to the featherweight nylon face fabric (or outer layer)Ěýthat lends its name to the jacket, the Ghost Whisperer line has been able to claim that title for a while. But the brand’s newest iteration swaps out 800-fill down for the primoĚý1,000 fill and replaces ultralight ten-denier face fabrics withĚýa downright paper-lightĚýfive-denier version, bringing the ’s weight to that of a billiard ball.ĚýĚý

ThatĚýlightweight warmth was enough to take the chill off shoulder-season summits or while making breakfast on summer backpacking trips in Montana’s Beartooth Mountains, whenĚýtemperatures were in the low fifties. It makes for a toasty midlayer (it fits great under a ski shell) during the colder months, but it’s probably not going to be my only puffy on chilly ski tours (adding a parka would be nice for frigid transitions). And at this level of warmth, the difference between the UL and the 8.8-ounce 800-fill version is really only going to be noticed by picky ounce counters. Cost aside, the weight savings may or may not be worth the paranoia that comes from brushing this jacket against a branch. I babied mine and still saw a few small snags while bushwhacking.

Ěý

Eddie Bauer Centennial Collection MicroTherm 1000 ($399)

Best For: Moving while bundled up
Weight: 9.6 ouncesĚý(men’s medium)
Down Weight: 3.2 ounces
Optimal Temperature Range:Ěý50 to 30Ěýdegrees Fahrenheit

TheĚý only features just over an ounce of additional down compared toĚýthe Ghost UL, but Eddie BauerĚýtook few chances on the face fabric with a sturdy (for this category) 20-denier material. Plus, stretchy fleece panels under the arms boost flexibility and breathability.

This jacketĚýkept me slightly warmer than the Ghost Whisperer. I stayedĚýcomfortable into temperatures in the high fortiesĚýwithout moving. The underarm panels didn’t seem to compromise warmthĚýbut were a welcome feature while moving above the tree line during fall hikes up Bear Peak in Boulder, Colorado,Ěýwith early-morning temperatures in the high forties. The face fabric still deserves some caution around sharp objects, but I felt confident jamming it into my backpack or wearing it while walking over and aroundĚýblowdown.

Mont Bell Plasma 1000Ěý($439)

Best For: Shoulder-season backpacking
Weight: 8.4 ounces (men’s medium)
Down Weight: 3.4 ounces
Optimal Temperature Range:Ěý45 to 25Ěýdegrees Fahrenheit

While the Ěýdown weightĚýof the Mont Bell is similar to that of the Eddie Bauer, the baffle design of theĚý stacks the down a little thicker, making it noticeably puffier and warmer than the Mountain HardwearĚýor Eddie BauerĚýjackets. It was my go-to puffy for winter backpacking trips in the desert: IĚýtook it down Little Death Hollow to the Escalante River in Utah, where morning temperaturesĚýdidn’t creep beyond the high thirties. It was also a comfortable jacket for ski transitions on days when the mercury dipped to the low thirties. The seven-denier face fabric feels a little crinklyĚýand lightweight and was just as delicate as the Ghost Whisperer’s—I grazed the cuff over a coarse boulder while hiking along the Escalante and introduced a small tear—but the warmth-to-weight ratio of the Plasma is nearly the best of the jackets IĚýtested. The whole thing packs down to slightly smaller than a 32-ounce Nalgene.

Rab Zero G ($550)

Best For: Super-cold adventures
Weight: 10 ounces (men’s medium)
Down Weight: 4.05 ounces
Optimal Temperature Range:Ěý35 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit

Bigger puffies like Rab’s are where the value of 1,000-fill down becomes more apparent. With additionalĚýdown on the inside (it uses more than twice the down of the Ghost Whisperer), the weight difference between a similarly warm 800-fill jacket could be a lot more obvious. The Zero G was warm enough as an ice-climbing belay jacket or a puffy for full-on winter backpacking up Montana’s Hyalite Canyon. The trade-off, though, is that additionalĚý1,000 fill makes this the most expensive jacket IĚýtested—by more than $110.

The Zero G quickly became my preferred winter puffy on days when the digitsĚýdropped well below freezing.ĚýThanks to a ten-denier face fabric, it stayed surprisingly intact (I put one small nick in the body with an errant ice screw in my backpack), even though it saw more use than any of its competitors.Ěý

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Backpacking food is often uninspiring. Because vegetables and meat are heavy and inconvenient,Ěýthey often get left behind. And many easy-to-make, lightweight, dehydrated meals areĚýbland or textureless. It’s a shameĚýwhen you consider the wealth of free and delicious wild foods we’re surrounded by on so many backpacking trips. Plus,Ěýif you gather your meal at camp, it won’t weigh you down on the trail.

If you want to go this route, your options are: get a Ph.D.’s worth of knowledge and experience in order to find and eat wild mushrooms, berries, and plants with confidence, or, depending on the water near your camp and the local laws, pack a lightweight fishing rod (likeĚýthe small-water ones we recommend here) and just a few other supplies, like a knife and spices. With even a little bit of practice and planning, odds are decent you’ll be able to pull a meal out of a nearby lake or stream, and oftenĚýthat dinner will be a delicious trout.

Trout are one of the better fish to catch and eat in the backcountry, not only because they’re plentiful in mountain waters all across the U.S., but they’re also a cinchĚýto clean and prep no matter their size. That said, if you’re imagining a big fillet of pure meat like you pick up at the store, you’re going to be disappointed. In the backcountry, you’re almost always going to end up with a mess of meat, bones, and skin on your plate. But picking tidbits of freshly caught trout off the bones is only as hard as scavenging every delicious morsel off a chicken wing—and much more satisfying. Plus,Ěýit tastes way better than a bag of freeze-dried slop.

Cleaning

Once you’ve caught and killed your fish, you’ll want to clean it as quickly as possible—ideally immediately. Warm temperatures can cause trout to deteriorate and spoil fast, but removing the entrails will slow that process. Waiting until you get back to camp orĚýwhen it’s time for dinnerĚýcan result in a wasted fish.

A dedicated filleting utensil, like Morakniv’s rubber-handled ($20) or Opinel’sĚýfolding ($20), will deliver clean and easy cuts and proveĚýmuch more effective than knives not built for this purpose. Trust us on this one.ĚýBegin by holding the fish by its lower jaw and making a cut up the bellyĚýfrom the anus (the small hole toward the tail) to between the gills. Use the tip of the knife to slice just through the skin. Avoid piercing the entrails or spine and spilling blood.

Cut two slits in the thin layer of skin just behind and under the bottom jaw of the fish, creating a V that points forward. (You can see this area better by sticking a finger in the fish’s mouth and pressing down on its tongue.) Slip your thumb into the V you just cut, and pull down towardĚýthe tail—this should remove the gills and guts in one clean stroke. InspectĚýthe cavity for any remaining entrails, and remove anything that isn’t meat or bones. Check local regulations for how to dispose of the entrails: in most places, you can drop them into deep or moving water (not at the shoreline) or bury them in a cathole far away from camp and the water. When in doubt, pack them out in a sealed container.

Once the guts are gone, you should see a line of red along the spine at the back of the cavity. Run your thumbnail along this line from head to tail, squeezing out all the blood. ThisĚýis the fish’s kidney, itĚýdoesn’t come out with the rest of the guts, and leaving it in can spoil the taste. If you want to remove the head, bend it back until you break the spine, then cut it away. (This is optional: if you do,Ěýyou’ll be missing out on some secret stashes of meat later on.)

Clean the fish thoroughlyĚýinside and out with fresh water to wash off any blood or other guts, then dry it well with a clean towel. At this point, the fish is ready to cook. Seal it in a disposable zip-top bag or ($12), and keep it as cool as possible until you’re ready to eat. You can usually keepĚýthe bag in the water on the shoreline.

Cooking

One of the easiestĚýand most deliciousĚýways to cook your trout is by seasoning it inside and out with olive oil, salt, and lemon pepper. I carry my oil in a reusable squeeze bottle like HumanGear’s ($25 for three). Pocket-sizeĚý ($14 for two)Ěýor one-ounceĚýĚý($6) are good for packing spices. For those willing to haul in moreĚýfixings, a real lemon (save some for seasoning as you eat) intensifies the flavor, and butter (it should keep a day or two at moderate temperatures without refrigeration) is richer than oil.ĚýDedicated backcountry chefs can pack the fish’s cavity with garlic, dried herbs like thyme and oregano, onions, and spices like cayenne. Keep in mind that adding veggies or other things to the fish will lengthen the cooking time.

Once you’ve seasoned the fish, wrap it in aluminum foil. If your fish are smaller than eight to tenĚýinches, you might be able to combine a few into one sheet; otherwise, wrap them up individually. If you’re lucky enough to be able to cook your trout over a campfire, wait until you have a good bed of coals, then lay the foil-wrapped fish over them. If you have a grate—or an easy-packing grill and pit combo, like the Ěý($34)—you can also raise them above the fireĚýto better control the cooking temperature.ĚýCook the fish for five to ten minutes (a general rule is eight minutes per inch of thickness, but exact numbers depend on the fish and your fire), flipping it halfway through.

If fires are a no-go due to local restrictions or fire danger, cut the fish into manageable lengths for your pot or pan, then fry them over your camp stove. While using foil isn’t necessary in this case, wrapping the fish can make cleanup easier.

You’ll know your fish is ready to eat when the meat is opaque and flakes easily.

Eating

If cooked properly, the meat should slide right off the bones, giving youĚýa lot more than you’d get by filleting the fish prior to cooking (which is often tricky with smaller troutĚýanyway). Pull the meat off carefully to limit the number of bones that end up in your mouth, but be prepared to spit a couple of small ones out.

The skin and fins are all OK to eat, as are the eyes and the cheeks—the latter are tiny scallop-like morsels that have long been prized for their rich, almost sweet flavor.

From hook to plate, you can be chowing down onĚýa fresh, all-time backcountry meal in just 20 minutes, having carried little more than a rod, a few sheets of aluminum foil, a squeeze bottle of oil, and a few of your favorite spices.

The post How to Clean, Cook, and Eat Trout in the Backcountry appeared first on şÚÁĎłÔąĎÍř Online.

When insulation-supplier Allied Feather and Down approached Mountain Hardwear in the Winter of 2018 with a way to make the brand’s down jackets even lighter, the outerwear brand was already toying with the idea of an airier version of its staple puffy, the . Packing down to the size of a 32-ounce Nalgene and clocking in at 8.8 ounces, the Ghost has been a favorite of ultralight backpackers and weight-conscious winter adventurers for almost sevenĚýyears. But the brand wasn’t satisfied with itĚýjust yet.Ěý

“We had been working with our fabric supplier to develop this new 5×7 ripstop, but we foundĚýthat it alone wasn’t enough to make a true ultralight product in our eyes,” said Devon Lambert, Mountain Hardwear’s project manager for outerwear. Without slimming the 800-fill jacket somewhere else, lightening the fabric wasn’t going to be enough to set anĚýultralightĚýversion apart. That’s where Allied came in, offering the rare chance to use even warmer and lighter 1,000-fill down.Ěý

“Adding that completed the picture,” Lambert said, because it allowed the brand to strip nearly 2.2 ounces off the prior model and create a fully featured down jacketĚýunlike anything it had ever made before—the Ěý($375).Ěý

Mountain Hardwear isn’t the only brand bringing this premium ingredient to market.ĚýEddie Bauer isĚýreleasing a 1,000-fill puffy in October, and the North Face will debut a collection of Ěýjackets and insulating pants warmed by 1,000-fill down next spring. SuddenlyĚýthe normallyĚýrare, top-of-the-line down is popping up all atĚýbrands thatĚýhave never carried it.Ěý

So why is there more four-digit down this fall? It has to do with howĚýthe insulationĚýis produced.Ěý

First, the basics: Fill power is a measure of how much air a set weight of down can hold. The more air trapped inside, the warmer it will be. The higher number, the higher the volume of downĚýand the warmer the jacket will be. Until 2020, jackets with a fill of 800 to 950ĚýgaveĚýmost users aĚýsolidĚýratio of packability to warmth, while only a handful of costly 1,000-fill options were on the market, like theĚýĚýorĚý.Ěý

Geese are primarily raised for their meat—down is a byproduct of that process—and the scarcity of higher-quality down is largely the result of the age of the birds. “Most commercial ducks and geese live for a prescribed amount of time before they’re slaughtered for their meat,” explained Downtek’s Andy Payne. In most cases, that’s not very long—between 60 and 90 days for a goose. “The longer the bird is alive, the bigger it getsĚýand the bigger its down clusters get.” The vast majority of down on the market (between 600 and 750 fill)Ěýcomes as a byproduct of geese raised for their meat. But some birds are raised solely to breed these other food-destined birds, and they live much longer—up to three to fourĚýyears, according to Payne. When these birds stop reproducing, they end up like their offspring. But by thenĚýtheir down has had more time to grow bigger and fluffier, yielding fill counts of 800 and up.

But the bird’s age isn’t the only factor when it comes to producing down at the upper limits of quality. Climate and other conditions on individual farms create warmer-insulated birds and warmer-insulating down. According to Matthew Betcher, the creative director at Allied, it was a perfect storm of conditions that boosted the availability of 1,000 fill after 2018. “We saw some supply chains in 2018Ěýwhere we could acquire some extremely high-quality material: old, large birds with the right weather conditions.” A mixture of cold weather in particular spots (particularly Eastern Europe, including Hungary and Ukraine for Allied sources), the size of the birds (which can fluctuate independentĚýof age and temperature), and a large number of birds with waning egg-laying abilities all came together at the same time to produce the season’s bumper crop of 1,000-fill.Ěý

Given these factors, the weight savings ofĚýthe Ghost Whisperer UL won’t come cheap: the $375 price tag reflects an extremely rare resource.ĚýAndĚýthe jacket could perhaps be just as hard to find as it is to afford. Given a limited quantity of down from Allied, Mountain Hardwear was able to make only 2,000 of them, and according to Lambert this might be the only year a jacket like this is possible. Without another irregular influx of 1,000-fill down, he says, the company willĚýwait for another waveĚýof 1,000-fill downĚýinstead of downgrading to a lesser fill count.Ěý

Jackets from other brands feature a similar price tag and rarityĚýto Mountain Hardwear’s. According to the North Face, using 1,000-fill down was prohibitively expensive until the brandĚýdesigned its top-of-the-line kit for the highest level of alpinists.

Even for suppliers like Allied, offering 1,000 fill is more of a bonus they can bring to their most important manufacturersĚýrather than a moneymaker. “It’s a bit of a loss leader,” BetcherĚýsaid. “It’s really something we only offer our best partners when we can attain it. We see it as a benefit of working with us, that we can source the rarest and highest quality material in the world for unique product lines.”

While the weight savings of this down could be important to alpinists, ultralight backpackers, and other ounce counters, 1,000-fill down isn’t a feature most consumers will justify—or notice a major difference from—over more readily available options in the 800-to-900-fill range. The market for high-quality and pricey down on this level is hard to predict. But Lambert is confident that for a few niche consumers, the addition of 1,000-fill down will make a difference. “The Ghost Whisperer jacket has been a popular staple in our line for a long time,” he said. “And adding this 1,000-fill down takes it to another level.”Ěý

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