Alison Kelman Archives - ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Online /byline/alison-kelman/ Live Bravely Thu, 24 Feb 2022 19:15:14 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Alison Kelman Archives - ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Online /byline/alison-kelman/ 32 32 Your Perfect Alternative Thanksgiving /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/your-perfect-alternative-thanksgiving/ Thu, 10 Oct 2013 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/your-perfect-alternative-thanksgiving/ Your Perfect Alternative Thanksgiving

Three proven formulas for an alternative Thanksgiving Day

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Your Perfect Alternative Thanksgiving

If you’ve grown to dread Thanksgiving, either because of hellish travel conditions, intolerable relatives, or an irrational fear of flightless birds, know this: There is another way. While there is surely warmth to be felt by the fireplace, your family all wrapped in thick wool sweaters swapping humiliating stories, there is no law the demands we spend our holiday such. Throw some junk in the trunk and take off to explore a world left deserted and open by the traditionalists.

Farm-to-Fireplace: Inverness, California

(Nagel Photography)

Marin County is a foodie paradise, with dozens of farmers’ markets. But few Thanksgiving meals are
as good as the one at the Sir and Star restaurant. Each year, the sprawling farmhouse turned gourmet eatery, just outside Point Reyes National Seashore, serves up a locally raised turkey and sun-dried plum-chutney dinner at the restaurant. Fill up and then kick back in one of ’s two-bedroom cabins—each with a deck, clawfoot tub, and roaring fireplace. Doubles from $565 for two nights.

Waterfront Meal: Big Bend, Texas

(Zack Frank)

Meals taste best when you’ve earned them—by, say, rowing down the Class II–III Rio Grande as it churns through Big Bend National Park. Outfitter guides four-day floats through Santa Elena Canyon’s 1,500-foot limestone cliffs—and serves up a riverside smoked turkey on Thanksgiving Day. Guided from $672 per person.

Southern Comfort: Blue Ridge, Georgia

(Sean Pavone)

People flock to Asheville, North Carolina, because the have the Southeast’s best climbing, hiking, fishing, and mountain biking. Avoid the crowds by aiming 135 miles south for one of Mountaintop Cabin’s 65 wood-beam rentals. The Aska Adven-ture cabin is near 17 miles of trails and has floor-to-ceiling views of the endless valleys. Plus, the downtown farmers’ market has superb cider and plenty of produce for your holiday meal. Reserve a heritage bourbon red turkey from . Cabins from $130.

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World Cup ºÚÁϳԹÏÍøs /adventure-travel/destinations/world-cup-adventures/ Wed, 17 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/world-cup-adventures/ World Cup ºÚÁϳԹÏÍøs

Cape Town ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø travelers look here first with good reason: The city dishes an astounding variety of fun, from bike touring to shark diving. To play baitfish, take a cage dive with Apex Shark Expeditions (from $215; apexpredators.com), the outfit that helped Planet Earth filmmakers capture those shocking images of breaching great whites. For less … Continued

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World Cup ºÚÁϳԹÏÍøs

Cape Town

ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø travelers look here first with good reason: The city dishes an astounding variety of fun, from bike touring to shark diving. To play baitfish, take a cage dive with Apex Shark Expeditions (from $215; ), the outfit that helped Planet Earth filmmakers capture those shocking images of breaching great whites. For less intense action, paddle among a penguin colony an hour from the city in Simon’s Town, with Simon’s Town Sea Kayak Tours (from $35; ). On land, cycle through the Cape’s rolling wine country with Bikes ‘n Wines (day trips from $50; ). In preparation for the World Cup, the city has added 25 new hotels and polished up many others. Our pick is the Grand Daddy, which recently plunked seven refurbished, vintage Airstream trailers on its roof (doubles, $215; ).

: Port Elizabeth

Port Elizabeth
(Photograph by Gerald Smith)

The country’s watersports capital, Port Elizabeth (pop. 237,000) is located at the eastern end of South Africa and a cheap hourlong flight from Cape Town. Base yourself in historic Richmond Hill, at the comfortable St. Phillips Bed and Breakfast (doubles from $35; ), then make for the 62-degree waves of Algoa Bay. Soul Surfing offers private two-hour lessons for beginners ($35; ). Positioned between the warm Indian Ocean and the chilly Atlantic, PE is an oceanic transition zone with two different environments. Which is to say it’s a diver’s paradise, home to leopard sharks and humpback whales. Winter (May) is the time to go, with visibility of 20 feet in the bay and 45 feet on the Atlantic side. Ocean Divers International leads day trips (from $25, plus equipment; ).

: Johannesburg

Johannesburg
(Courtesy of Ricky Lopez Bruni/Mosetlha Bush Camp, Madikwe)

The World Cup begins and ends in Jo’burg; so do most South African safaris. The majority of lion-peepers head to vast Kruger National Park. Instead, take an hourlong charter flight (from $570 round-trip; ) to the less popular Madikwe Game Reserve. Rent a cabin and have your dinner cooked on an open fire after taking guided game drives with the Mosetlha Bush Camp Eco-Lodge (from $230; ). Most travelers don’t hang around Jo’burg, due to its reputation for crime, but the city is undergoing an upgrade, with more than $50 million going to security improvements. Stay at the Sandton Sun (doubles from $265; ) and visit Soccer City Stadium, where the next futbol kings will be crowned.

Hotel Surazo, Chile

Hotel Surazo, Chile
Hotel Surazo

HABITATS

In the Clear

Chile’s year-old Hotel Surazo, a glass-and-wood surf lodge 2.5 hours southwest of Santiago, in the sleepy coastal village of Matanzas, offers lessons, two hot tubs under the stars, and floor-to-ceiling views of 15-foot Pacific waves out the front door. Doubles from $100; rentals, $60 per day; lessons, $30;

Teton Ice Park

Chasing Waterfalls

Central Gully Buttress at Teton Ice Park
Central Gully Buttress at Teton Ice Park (Photograph by Christian Santelices)

Ice climbing just got a little less hairy. Set on a 100-foot cliff wall a mere five-minute walk from Wyoming’s Grand Targhee resort, the new Teton Ice Park offers rookies a controlled atmosphere for learning to wield an ax. A system of low-flow showerheads douses the wall all day long, ensuring stable conditions, and guides with Victor, Idaho–based Aerial Boundaries teach the basics. Private guiding from $105;

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Spring Break /outdoor-adventure/snow-sports/spring-break/ Thu, 11 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/spring-break/ Spring Break

Drive the Powder HighwayScenario: Big Winter in B.C. This past November was one of the snowiest on record in British Columbia. Which means that even if the storms slow down, there’s still going to be truckloads of snow this March especially in the Kootenay region, a damp swath of mountains in the southeastern part of … Continued

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Spring Break

Drive the Powder Highway
Scenario: Big Winter in B.C.

This past November was one of the snowiest on record in British Columbia. Which means that even if the storms slow down, there’s still going to be truckloads of snow this March especially in the Kootenay region, a damp swath of mountains in the southeastern part of the province. So book a ticket to Cranbrook Delta now flies direct from Salt Lake City and spin along the Powder Highway, a 660-mile “loop” with more than 50 resorts and backcountry-, cat-, and heli-skiing operations. My buddy Luke and I sampled the goods a few years ago. We started at Whitewater Resort (), a three-lift mountain outside of Nelson that receives more than 40 feet of snow annually. Then we spent a few days in Fernie (), an unsung destination with some of the best tree skiing I’ve seen, before looping back to Red Mountain (), an empty, cliff-strewn resort. Our conclusion: The route honors its good name, and we’ve been plotting our return ever since. Especially considering the 2007 addition of Revelstoke Mountain Resort (), with more than 5,600 feet of vert, the most on the continent. This I gotta see.

: Surf Kona

Surfer in Kona, Hawaii
Near Kona, Hawaii

Scenario: El Niño Boils the Pacific

Spring on the Kailua-Kona side of Hawaii’s Big Island usually brings thick humidity and low surf. But in El Niño years, trade winds are often pushed south, leaving light breezes and clear skies: ideal beach weather. Plus low-pressure systems generate stronger storms out at sea, sending in swells that line up with the Big Island’s reefs. Fly into the Kailua-Kona airport and check into the Kona Sugar Shack (from $150; ). Then rent a board from Pacific Vibrations (from $15 per day; 808-329-4140) and hook up with Kona-based pro surfer C.J. Kanuha for a private lesson (from $140; ). Beginners: Request Pine Trees, a gentle break four miles north of town. More experienced? On a northwest swell, Lyman’s point break—off Kona’s main road, Alii Drive—is best for longboarding. And if El Niño doesn’t deliver? Just head to the end of Alii Drive, to End of the World, a 30-foot lava-rock cliff and your spot for a dive into the Pacific.

What Says El Niño?

The phenomenon known as El Niño is, to oversimplify a bit, the Pacific Ocean regulating her body temperature. This happens in intervals of between two and five years, and the effect is a warming of surface waters in the eastern Pacific. This shifts the jet stream—and its corresponding storm track—south, leading to an upheaval in typical U.S. weather patterns, especially in the Southeast, Northwest, and California. Many meteorologists are predicting a moderate-to-strong effect through May. What’s that mean for you? Probably a warm, wet spring in Southern California and drier conditions in the Northwest. (The record-breaking November snowfall in Whistler, British Columbia, was an El Niño anomaly and a strict reminder that predicting the weather is pure folly.) Odds are the late-season powder gods will smile upon the Sierra and, if temps stay cold, the southern Rockies. But the biggest upside? Potentially awesome surf in Southern California and Hawaii, which already saw huge swells in December.

—Jennifer L. Schwartz

: Vegas, Baby

Red Rock Canyon
Red Rock Canyon

Scenario: The Economy’s Still in the Tank

The best part about Vegas is not the endless nights and tantalizing, if long, odds. It’s the fact that there may be no easier destination for scoring last-minute deals on flights and hotel rooms (), which means easy access to nearby Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. A 195,000-acre puzzle of sandstone canyons and one of the country’s top climbing destinations, Red Rocks is home to more than 2,000 routes—everything from short sport climbs to big walls (entrance fee, $5; climbing permits free; 702-515-5350). The northeast face of Mount Wilson offers tough, fun multipitch climbs, and spring is the time to tackle it (not too hot, not too cold). Book a day trip with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides ($235; ), the same outfit that leads clients up the Grand Teton. They’ll belay you on a four-pitch climb designed for your skill level. When you’re done, it’s only 20 minutes back to the Strip, where you can try to win back the cost of your trip.

: Float the Illinois

Illinois River, Oregon
Oregon's Illinois River

Scenario: Sun Spell in the Northwest

Whitewater rafting in March? Yup, if it’s on southwestern Oregon’s Wild and Scenic Illinois River, a Class IV–V beauty that happens to be my favorite stretch of water in the Northwest. The key is catching the perfect flow. In March, that means a Pacific storm bringing three days of rain to raise the water level, followed by a splash of sun. Ashland-based Momentum River Expeditions knows when the Illinois is best. Call a month in advance and tell them you’re flexible with your schedule so they have time to adjust for weather. Ask for their four-day wine-and-cheese float ($850; ), which puts in two hours northwest of Ashland at Miami Bar and takes out 34 miles later at the confluence of the Illinois and the Rogue. Momentum will pack local syrah to complement Rogue Creamery cheeses. That’s the pampering you’ll want between picking your way through more than 80 rapids and one wild eight-foot waterfall.

: Ride Napa

St. Helena, Napa Valley

St. Helena, Napa Valley St. Helena, Napa Valley

Scenario: Early Spring

Winter means rain in the Bay Area. But even in El Niño years, spring arrives early. And what an arrival it is—especially in Napa, the place to go for a spring break featuring green hillsides, rolling roads, fine libations, and no cheap tequila. Start in Yountville and stay at Bardessono (doubles from $300; ), a new, stylish hotel with easy access to the area’s vineyards. Then set out for a gentle 14-mile ride (daylong rentals, $35 at Napa Valley Bike Tours; ) through the Stags Leap district, home of Malk and Pine Ridge, makers of wine country’s best cabernet sauvignon. Next up is Mount Veeder, a 36-mile loop that climbs 1,500 feet to valleywide vistas. Recovery: After soaking in Bardessono’s spa, walk to any of the multiple celeb-chef-run restaurants nearby. Try Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc for succulent fried chicken ().

: Hike Arches

Hike Arches
(Courtesy of NPS)

Scenario: PBS Keeps Airing Ken Burns’s The National Parks


Due to its proximity to Moab, Arches National Park has seen a steady increase in visitation since the eighties. This year, expect a deluge thanks to Burns’s documentary. But the park is most heavily trafficked in May, meaning an early spring trip gets you uncrowded access to the 2,500-odd archways. At this time of year, Arches sees everything from temps in the seventies to light snow. But south-facing walls soak up enough sun to keep climbers comfortable in all conditions. Outfitters don’t guide in the park, so rent gear in town at Pagan Mountaineering (435-259-1117) and shimmy up Owl Rock, an easy 5.8 trad route (stay on the park’s main road past the visitor center and turn right by Balance Rock). Hikers: You’ll find the most arches on the 7.2-mile Devil’s Garden loop. Camp at one of Sand Flats Recreation Area’s 120 sites, located on a high-desert plateau with views of the 11,500-foot La Sal Mountains ($10 per night; 435-259-2444).

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Deconstructing the Richmond Oval /outdoor-adventure/deconstructing-richmond-oval/ Wed, 06 Jan 2010 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/deconstructing-richmond-oval/ Deconstructing the Richmond Oval

We saw it with the Beijing Water Cube aquatics center and now again with Vancouver’s $177 million Richmond Olympic Oval: Host nations love it when world records fall on their soil, so they build venues that up their chances. 1. Six infrared sensors hanging from the ceiling monitor the surface temps of the ice so … Continued

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Deconstructing the Richmond Oval

We saw it with the Beijing Water Cube aquatics center and now again with Vancouver’s $177 million Richmond Olympic Oval: Host nations love it when world records fall on their soil, so they build venues that up their chances.

1. Six infrared sensors hanging from the ceiling monitor the surface temps of the ice so they can be kept at 17.6 degrees in the straights and 21.2 in the curves.

2. Computers compare surface temperature with readings from thermostats embedded in the slab and along the cooling pipes to keep them constant.

3. The rink’s refrigeration hoses are compartmentalized in the concrete slab, allowing solutions of different temperatures to be pumped through.

Changes were made to this article to correct mistakes printed in the magazine.

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Five Tips From Chris Davenport /health/training-performance/five-tips-chris-davenport/ Thu, 10 Dec 2009 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/five-tips-chris-davenport/ SKI SMARTER 1. GET YOUR BEARINGS: When I ski someplace I’ve never been, I grab a map and immediately look for the double black diamonds. That just tells me where the cool terrain is. Then I get a look at it from a groomed run or the lift and see if there are good lines … Continued

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SKI SMARTER

1. GET YOUR BEARINGS:

When I ski someplace I’ve never been, I grab a map and immediately look for the double black diamonds. That just tells me where the cool terrain is. Then I get a look at it from a groomed run or the lift and see if there are good lines in between runs.

2. MIX IT UP:
Most skiers tend to stick to a routine. They hit the same trails and ride the same lifts, and their day lacks adventure. You should challenge yourself—set a goal in the morning, like ski every black diamond or ride every lift. You see more of the mountain that way and, at the end of the day, you feel like you’ve accomplished something.

3. FOLLOW THE WIND AND SUN:
For instance, if high winds blew over­night from the west, maybe you’ll want to check out the lee-side, east-facing slopes for some new, wind-deposited powder. Or if it’s a spring skiing scenario, ski the sunny, east faces in the morning and save the shady (frozen) west sides for the afternoon.

4. LISTEN:
You can tell a lot about the snow by the sound it’s making. The quieter the snow, the better it is. In the West, the groomers are generally best in the morning. But if you’re in a spring situation, or out east, and you’ve got a melt/freeze cycle going on, the groomers are probably not so good early on and might be what I call “loud snow.”

5. GO LOW-TECH:
Nowadays everybody has GPS’s and music players and phones and wires coming out of everywhere. It’s just too much. Put that stuff away. Just go have fun.

Five Tips From Zoya DeNure

Iditarod racer and former model DeNure, 32, is a year-round resident of Paxson, Alaska

STAYING WARM


1. FUNCTION OVER FASHION:

I always wear fleece mittens under a bigger set of mittens. For feet, I go with Bunny Boots ($79; ). They’re ugly as sin and they’re heavy, but they can handle minus 60. You can go through water and your feet stay dry.

2. PROTECT YOUR BASE:
A good base layer is extremely important. My favorite is the Merino 4 Classic Crew, by Patagonia ($125; ). But when I started out I had very little money, so I wore Duofold’s Women’s Mid-Weight Long Sleeve Crew ($25; ).

3. CHOOSE BACON:
When your body switches over into survival mode, you need a lot of fat and you need it quick. You’ll see Iditarod racers out there eating sticks of butter. I like bacon, because it’s quick and easy and you can make it at home beforehand. We send it to the checkpoints ahead of time in little baggies.

4. HOTTER DOGS:
My dogs wear locally made Kipmik coats, which have a waterproof shell and thick fleece on the inside. They hang down low enough to completely protect them from frostbite. If it’s minus 20 outside, they’ll wear them when they’re running.

5. NO TENT REQUIRED:
I sleep much better outside, under the stars. Spruce branches—or any branches—under your sleeping bag keep you off the snow. I snuggle with my dogs, but a good sleeping bag is important. I have Mountain Hardwear’s minus-40-degree Ghost SL ($680; ).

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How to Be a Hero /adventure-travel/destinations/how-be-hero/ Tue, 01 Dec 2009 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/how-be-hero/ How to Be a Hero

Keep It Wild Want to protect your favorite hiking area from cookie-cutter homes or oil-and-gas leases? Buy the place. Assemble a posse: If you care about a threatened wilderness area, chances are other people do, too. Recruit them through local groups, like a recreation club or conservation organization. Make a plan: A business plan, that … Continued

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How to Be a Hero

Keep It Wild

San Isabel National Forest Mosquito Range

San Isabel National Forest Mosquito Range San Isabel National Forest Mosquito Range

Want to protect your favorite hiking area from cookie-cutter homes or oil-and-gas leases? Buy the place.

Assemble a posse: If you care about a threatened wilderness area, chances are other people do, too. Recruit them through local groups, like a recreation club or conservation organization.

Make a plan: A business plan, that is, stating your intent to preserve the area in question. “You need to know money in, money out, basic business things,” says Brad McLeod, founding member of the Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC), which has purchased five climbing areas endangered by development since 2003. “If you have a $100,000 project, you still have taxes, insurance, the debt service on your note.” The Small Business Administration has guidelines on its Web site (). Look to partner with a national organization like the Nature Conservancy or the Access Fund for resources and advice. Or start your own nonprofit with 501(c)(3) (charitable) status so your donors get tax write-offs.

Fundraise creatively: When the town of Telluride, Colorado, was faced with raising $17 million in three months to purchase land from a developer in 2007, a local nonprofit built a bulletproof-glass wishing well in the middle of town that raised $1 million. The SCC has sold T-shirts designed by a sympathetic climber-artist and once held a party in a swanky Atlanta club, raising $18,000 in a night.

Court the media: Distribute press releases for media with any accomplishments, even small steps. Sites like can get the word out to a broader audience. Call your local newspaper, radio, and TV stations and find a reporter who’s covered similar beats. And it’s imperative to have a Web site or blog. (Set up free ones at or .)

Be a Hero: Get Sponsorship

Practice authenticity: Be honest about building your expedition around a cause. “If you want to be the first to pogo the length of the Nile, do that. But don’t bolt on that you’re doing it to solve hunger, unless you really are,” says David de Rothschild, who’s funding his Plastiki voyage entirely through sponsorship.

Target accurately: Research companies to make sure you fit with the kind of projects they’re looking for. Then send proposals to the right person (marketing directors, communications managers, PR reps) before they plan their fiscal year—it’s different at every company. Get contact info and fiscal schedules at (from $75 per month).

Baby steps: Develop relationships with companies by being realistic. Unless you’re Ed Viesturs, don’t ask Eddie Bauer for $30,000 to climb K2.

Present concisely: “We want to see the idea and its output in one simple page,” says Neil Fiske, CEO of Eddie Bauer. “Is the expedition original and meaningful? Will there be dispatches, articles, video? What’s the proposed budget?”

Golden rule: Over deliver. It guarantees future funding.

Be a Hero: Influence Your Congressman

It’s much simpler than you think, says Massachusetts congressman Barney Frank. “Call your representative and your two senators. I read a variant of every letter that comes in, and I’ve had legislation that I’ve passed as a result of things that people brought to my attention. What the representatives are looking for is how strongly you hold your opinion—specifically, to what extent does that opinion influence how you vote? So the less effort you put into it, the less impact you have. If some organization gives you a letter and says, ‘Send this letter’—and it can be an eloquent six-page letter—that’s much less helpful than you writing your own three-paragraph letter. The most important thing: Call up the office after you’ve written and say, ‘Can I come meet with you?’ You don’t have to go to Washington. We all have home offices and have meetings with people in our districts. Prove to your rep that you’re someone who votes in his or her district and cares about this issue. That’s it.”

Be a Hero: Live Longer By Doing Good

In 2007, the Corporation for National and Community Service compiled a series of studies from sources like Duke University and the University of Texas to look at the correlation between volunteering and physical health. Their discovery: Giving back lowers rates of depression and improves long-term health. The social ties it creates can even improve immunity. Recent studies have shown that when people want to contribute to something, the brain lights up the mesolimbic pathway. “That part of the brain is associated with good feelings like joy and feel-good chemicals like dopamine,” says Stephen Post, director of the Center for Medical Humanities, Compassionate Care, and Bioethics at Stony Brook University and author of Why Good Things Happen to Good People. “Even just making a charitable donation or thinking about it can have an impact neurologically.”

Be a Hero: Organize a Race

Know what you’re getting into: “You need to feel inspired on a deep and intrinsic level, because it’s going to take a lot of your time,” says Chris Fickel, co-organizer of the CT Jamboree, a two-day Colo­rado Trail ride that benefits multiple-sclerosis research. “I’ve spent about 300 hours a year on this race.”

Partner with a charitable organization: This will allow donors to write off gifts, which makes fundraising easier. Charity Navigator () independently evaluates charities for their health, effectiveness, and expense ratios.

Get permission: Landowners, cities, counties, and public-land agencies are often open to allowing a nonprofit event on their turf. Chart your course, find out what agencies manage the land, trails, or roads, and get a permit.

Snag sponsors: Hit up a local restaurant for food or a gear shop to provide prizes for the participants who raise the most money.

Having an online fundraising portal is key: Sites like and offer online giving modules for charity events. “For the inaugural ride, donations were all cash and checks, and we made $15,000,” says Fickel. “The following year, we put up our Web site, and we bumped up to $30,000.”

Be a Hero: Get an Audience

Want a louder voice for your cause? Make a movie. Big River Man, the documentary about Martin Strel, has spread the word about his swims. “Having something tangible to show is the best way to present an idea,” says Ben Knight, co-director of Red Gold, the film that broke the story on the mining threat to salmon in Alaska’s Bristol Bay. Need skills? Learn camera technique, how to create a storyline and direct, and Final Cut Pro at one of Serac’s ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Film Schools, which take place from Colorado’s backcountry to Everest Base Camp (). Then submit your work to a festival like ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Film (), in Boulder, or Taos Mountain Film (), which considers first-time directors.

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