Alex Markels Archives - ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Online /byline/alex-markels/ Live Bravely Thu, 24 Feb 2022 18:23:27 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Alex Markels Archives - ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Online /byline/alex-markels/ 32 32 ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Racing /health/training-performance/blood-sweat-and-terrific-footage/ Sat, 01 Apr 2000 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/blood-sweat-and-terrific-footage/ So is adventure racing pure competition, or just a grueling way to grab TV ratings?

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Blood, Sweat, and Terrific Footage

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They had paddled for 56 miles across the choppy waters of Lake Nahuel Huap’ and Lake Espejo, portaged over steep slopes, and forded the raging Rio Limay, but only now was the real drama about to begin. Running in second place in last December’s Eco-Challenge Expedition Race in Argentina, four New Zealanders dubbed Team MapInfo (after the name of their sponsor) had just arrived at Check-point Three, a dirt parking lot swarming with 150 spectators and 200 members of the press. Cameras zoomed in as the team stripped naked, threw on dry clothes, and flung themselves into the 26-mile horseback stage. As they rode through the gauntlet of onlookers, an overeager soundman swung a boom in front of Kristina Strode-Penny, MapInfo’s most experienced equestrian. The horse bucked, catapulting Strode-Penny over its head and leaving her writhing on the ground with a broken right ankle. She struggled for ten miles to the next checkpoint, then collapsed in tears in a first-aid tent where, once again, the cameras pounced.”All these media people were pushing through the flap in the tent and shoving huge lights and microphones and cameras in my face,” recalls Strode-Penny, who was soon airlifted to a hospital in Bariloche, disqualifying her team. “They were just staring. No one was trying to comfort me, even though I was lying there alone with a compression fracture and it was obvious how much pain I was in.”

Undoubtedly, when the slickly edited documentary about last year’s Eco-Challenge airs on Discovery Channel on April 9 and 10, Strode-Penny’s accident will make for great TV. But scenes like these have given rise to serious questions about the future of adventure racing: Is it merely a hybridized media confection built on ersatz drama, destined to fade like a ratings-challenged network sitcom? Or will it find a life of its own, endorsed by both participants and audiences as a legitimate com-petitive pursuit? “ÔThe Toughest Race on Earth’ kind of thing is only going to last so long,” says Martin Dugard, a three-time Raid Gauloises veteran and the author, ironically enough, of Surviving the Toughest Race on Earth. “The sport has already lost its purity. In order to get away from the realm of corporate sponsorship and television, it’s got to embrace some of the traditional structures it disdained in its early days.”

When French journalist Gérard Fusil established the inaugural Raid Gauloises adventure race in 1989, the event was intended to cater to French “adventurers” who took particular glee in racing for three days straight through remote, dangerous territory. Since then, overall participation in adventure races has increased at an average of 65 percent per year, attracting competitors from all over the world and even prompting coverage from publications like BusinessWorld and Popular Mechanics. Now, with 200 adventure competitions scheduled around the globe this year, the sport appears to be experiencing its heyday.

But while big-name races like the Raid and the Eco-Challenge have inspired multiple spin-offs, few share the same rules, regulations, or itineraries. The Elf Authentic ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø, created in 1999 by Raid founder Fusil (who sold his stake in the Raid several years ago), involves kayaking, biking, and trekking in exotic locales while taking inept stabs at creating a culturally sensitive spin. (During last year’s Elf, an American team took basketballs to Filipino villagers.) One- and two-day races for weekend warriors, such as the Hi-Tec ºÚÁϳԹÏÍø Racing Series and the Brooks Muddy Buddy Ride and Run Series have also sprung up near American cities like New York and Los Angeles. The chief common denominator is a fierce need for sponsorship dollars and TV deals, since none of these races benefits from ticket sales or concessions. And to get that, they all need something else: moments of hold-on-to-your-remote drama—real or staged—that elevate adventure racing above the level of express backpacking in running shoes.

No one embodies the ability to invent, package, and sell that drama more enthusiastically than American credit-card marketer and three-time Raid veteran Mark Burnett. Having witnessed the huge growth in adventure racing firsthand, Burnett, 39, saw an unfilled niche in the United States and in 1995 launched the inaugural Eco-Challenge in Utah. The event proved to be quite Raid-like, with one exception: A shameless self-promoter, Burnett determined that with enough television deals and corporate sponsorship he could actually turn a buck. “I saw this enormous demographic of wealthy, active people,” he says, “and I thought, what could be more perfect than a sport just for them?”

Easier said than done. Burnett has been criticized for creating an event that favors particular camera crews (parts of last year’s Eco-Challenge were closed to all camera teams except those from Discovery Channel, the race’s key sponsor)and selling documentaries that are more about telegenic stagecraft than competition. “They take massive amounts of footage, then make up the story afterwards,” grouses Mark “Ox” Foster, captain of the losing Team MapInfo. “Their priority is ratings, not racers.” Burnett, whose adventure theatrics will reach a new high (or low) this summer with a primetime show he’s producing for CBS called Survivor, in which 16 contestants are dropped on a deserted island in the South China Sea with minimal provisions and try to outlast one another in hopes of winning a million dollars, argues that successful events are about entertainment. “Anybody who says the Eco-Challenge isn’t a race is ridiculous,” he says. “But people like a big show. And when the Eco-Challenge comes to town, the circus arrives in a big way.”

Even without contrived tribulations, however, the broad contingencies in adventure races—bad weather, navi.gation errors, health problems—tend to steer actual events away from the script, occasionally causing the circus to spiral dangerously out of control. In 1997, at the ESPN-sponsored X Games adventure race on the Baja Peninsula, 250 miles south of San Diego, organizers grossly under-estimated potential problems such as dehydration and heatstroke. First, participants’ shoes melted from under their feet; then racers began collapsing all over the course. In a few cases, it took hours for rescuers to reach the endangered contestants, one of whom slipped into a coma and had to be hospitalized. In 1995, Eco-Challenge racer Robin Horsfield succumbed to hypothermia after spending the night in a water-filled Utah canyon and had to be evacuated by helicopter. That same year, at the Raid Gauloises in Borneo, New Zealand’s Steve Gurney contracted a potentially fatal virus after an open wound was exposed to bat guano in a cave; he was on a respirator for three weeks.

Despite the mishaps and risks, veteran participants are quick to defend their pursuit. “Let critics who say this isn’t a sport try to finish one of these events, let alone compete,” says Billy Mattison, an accomplished mountaineer who captained the winning American team from Vail in 1998’s Eco-Challenge in Morocco. In the end, it may be the athletes themselves who steer the adventure-racing soap opera in a new direction. “The Eco-Challenge may be the gold standard by which you measure a great television adventure, but it is not the gold standard by which you measure adventure racing,” says Dugard. “I think the hard-core adventure racer is already moving away from what Burnett’s doing.”


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Breach of Faith?

A landmark report on the Snake River dams is expected to advise doing…a whole lotta nuthin’


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Ever since we first reported on the campaign to breach some of the nation’s oldest dams as the best means of restoring dwindling fish populations (“Blow-Up,” February 1999), we’ve been monitoring the accelerating rate of federally ordained dam decommissionings. The most significant of these occurred last July when a backhoe pulled a bucket of earth from the Edwards Dam in Maine, making the Kennebec River free for the first time in 162 years. During the next six months, another 13 dams were demolished, including Rains Mill Dam in North Carolina and Idaho’s Colburn Mill Pond Dam. This month, however, hopes surrounding the first large Western dam-breaching may by dealt a severe blow.

At the end of April, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which operates four massive dams on Idaho’s Snake River, is expected to recommend keeping all of them in place—an announcement that may scuttle the dream of freeing one of America’s most storied stretches of flowing water. That recommendation, which will cap a five-year, $20 million study of the Snake by the federal government, could establish an unsettling precedent in the volatile politics of dam removal. If, as environmentalists anticipate, the Corps of Engineers decides against breaching, its conclusion won’t be resting purely on scientific evidence.

Last year, studies commissioned by the National Marine Fisheries Service and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service both declared that dismantling the dams would be the best way to save the Snake River salmon from extinction. “The bottom-line biological conclusion is really a no-brainer,” says Ann Badgley, regional director of the Fish and Wildlife Service. “For native fish and wildlife, a free-flowing river is better than a dammed river.”

As these studies garnered attention, business leaders and politicians began howling in protest. Corps economists estimated that breaching would cost the region $246 million per year in increased shipping, irrigation, construction, and hydropower costs (equivalent to nearly 1 percent of the Northwest’s economic output). Last autumn, perhaps after reading the political writing on the wall, the marine-science folks backed away from their recommendations and started pushing alternatives to tearing down dams. “From a purely salmon perspective, the maximum protection option [which includes breaching the four dams] would be best,” admits William Stelle, the NMFS regional administrator. “But that’s nonimplementable, because we just don’t have the authority.”

And there’s the rub: Because the four lower Snake dams are federally owned, Congress and the president would have to approve their destruction. Chances of such a plan passing a GOP-controlled Senate are next to nil, while a Republican in the White House would almost certainly kill the idea. “If Governor Bush is elected president,” says Washington’s Republican Senator Slade Gorton, the region’s powerful dam defender, “breaching will be off the table in 60 days.” The candidate himself is slightly more circumspect: “We can save the fish,” Bush said during a recent fund-raising swing through Oregon, “but we don’t have to tear down dams to do so.” Alas, the governor failed to elaborate on how he would ach.ieve this Solomonic compromise.

Democrats are equally wary of embracing the idea—most notable among them Vice-President Al Gore. Last fall, Gore angered some longtime backers in the environmental movement by staying conspicuously silent on the Snake River; a coalition of environmental groups and outdoor companies (including the Sierra Club, Trout Unlimited, Save Our Wild Salmon, and Patagonia Inc.) even took out full-page ads in the New York Times chastising him for skirting the divisive issue. Gore later met privately with Northwest environmentalists and insisted he wasn’t playing duck and cover. “He’s not ruling dams in or out,” says Tim Stearns, former director of Save Our Wild Salmon. “But he assured us that salmon and dams are going to get more attention.” Unfortunately for the Snake’s salmon, the gap between action and attention could spell the difference between survival and extinction.


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Mr. Salty to the Rescue

Don’t let sodium deficiency trip you up on the trail


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“I‘m on a new campaign to push junk food on the trail,” announces Sherrie Collins, branch chief of emergency services for Grand Canyon National Park. “My favorite is Cheez-Its.” Collins’s preoccupation with the unnaturally orange snack food stems from the fact that a single-serving bag contains 40 milligrams of sodium—enough to stave off hyponatremia, a condition involving critically low levels of sodium in the blood that plagues increasing numbers of mountaineers, adventure racers, and day hikers.

During periods of sustained physical exertion, your body prevents itself from overheating by flushing water through the pores of your skin. The price for keeping cool is that you not only lose enormous amounts of water—up to 25 milliliters each minute—but also significant amounts of salt (hence those unsightly white rings around your armpits after an epic mountain bike ride). The traditional mantra for outdoor enthusiasts—drink water or die—helps you to redress the H2O deficit, but it does nothing to replace the lost salt, which is critical for transmitting nerve impulses in the brain. Once blood-sodium concentration drops below 9 percent, hyponatremia sets in. The symptoms, which include malaise, confusion, and nausea, can presage severe and in some instances fatal complications.In 1998, Kelly Barret, a 43-year-old distance runner, died while participating in the Chicago Marathon. Although his death was attributed to a rare heart condition, doctors said it was aggravated by hyponatremia. Part of the problem is that in its early stages, hyponatremia mimics heat exhaustion, which makes diagnosis quite difficult. “They look exactly alike,” says Collins, “but you treat them differently.”

During the last few years, efforts to detect, treat, and prevent hyponatremia have increased significantly. In 1997, Dale Speedy, a University of Auckland physician, conducted the first comprehensive hyponatremia study at the New Zealand Ironman and found the condition in one-fifth of 330 finishers. Those numbers have gone down in the past two years, but cases in noncompetitive outdoor activities have rocketed upward. In 1989, the first hyponatremic hiker was evacuated from the Grand Canyon; by 1999, the number of diagnoses in the park had risen to 36. The elevating statistics led park rangers to pioneer the use of portable blood-chemistry analyzers in 1996, which allow for on-the-spot assessment and treatment. This summer, Collins is trying to add another of those $5,000 analyzers to the three currently in use. She’s also expanding the park’s Web site to educate visitors about the risks of hyponatremia during desert hiking.

Experts say that prevention hinges on maintaining a consistent water-sodium balance by not drinking too much water and by replenishing at least some of that lost salt. Caveat: Don’t overdue it. The simplest remedy is an off-the-shelf sports drink like Gatorade, which is loaded with sodium-rich electrolytes. Or, as Collins points out, Cheez-Its—a prescription that may soon imbue the snack food with a noble new role. “Now,” notes Hawaii Ironman medical director Bob Laird, “it can save lives.”

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Blue Sky’s Noisy Dawn

Vail sweeps up the ashes of ecoterrorism and opens its newest powder paradise

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If there was ever a lynx residing on the back side of Colorado’s Vail Mountain, the shy bobcat cousin must have fled in terror on January 6 when approximately 6,000 powder-crazed skiers and snowboarders beelined for the ski resort’s newest stretch of terrain, a 520-acre expansion called Blue Sky Basin. The throng swarmed the area’s two new high-speed quads and stacked up in hour-long lift lines before finally frolicking through Blue Sky’s broad glades, open bowls, and hip-deep stashes.

That opening-day scrum was somewhat ironic, since Blue Sky Basin has been at the center of a prolonged environmental battle that climaxed in a fiery arson attack by the Earth Liberation Front that destroyed Vail’s mountaintop Two Elk Lodge in October 1998 (see “Powder Burn,” January 1999). Blue Sky, formerly known as Category III, was quickly dubbed “B.S. Basin” by detractors who are convinced the project is merely a ruse to fuel real estate development on private land near its border. Longtime ecoprotester Jeff Berman, who recently founded Colorado Wild’s Ski Area Citizens Coalition to fight expansions at Vail and a half-dozen other regional resorts, says the only reason he or his cohorts will ski the terrain is to ensure that Vail follows required mitigation measures to protect the lynx habitat. The coalition has already called attention to sensitive wetlands that were damaged by a logging road built to haul millions of board feet of timber from the Blue Sky site. “We’re watching very, very closely,” warns Berman.

And yet the land-grabbing shows no signs of slowing down. While timelines vary over the next few seasons, nearly a dozen U.S. ski areas plan to open expanded terrain, including Saddleback Mountain in Maine (1,800 acres) and Wyoming’s Grand Targhee (195 acres), while Vail plans to add another 365 acres to Blue Sky. At press time, Berman and other environmentalists awaited a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service decision to add the lynx to the endangered species list, which could derail at least a portion of those projects. But Forest Service officials caution that approved plans have already taken the possible lynx listing into account. “The lynx listing isn’t going to preclude future expansions,” says Ed Ryberg, who helps oversee the Forest Service’s ski resort permits. “It’s just going to complicate them.”


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Cotton That Won’t Kill Ya

A California company unveils what could be the next ·Éü²Ô»å±ð°ù´Ú²¹²ú°ù¾±³¦


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One Tuesday afternoon last fall, Donald Duncan, a vice-president of Nextec Applications Inc., a textiles company near San Diego, California, stood in the middle of his headquarters’ conference room wearing a distressed-red organic-cotton canvas jacket while a colleague doused him with a bottle of tap water. Two designers from Patagonia Inc. watched in astonishment as the water hit Duncan, beaded up, rolled off his jacket, and soaked the carpet at his feet. The demonstration highlighted the benefits of a new cotton fabric that Nextec hopes will make current outdoor garments as old-fashioned as oilskin. “Cotton,” exclaims Duncan, “is going to be huge!”

Duncan’s enthusiasm is understandable, given that cotton in the outdoors has traditionally sucked—literally: The material excels at absorbing moisture, trapping it next to the skin and sapping body heat. “It’s known as Ôkiller cotton,'” explains Billy Roos, a medical consultant for the Colorado Outward Bound School. “If you’re going into an environment where body heat can’t keep you warm and dry, cotton definitely isn’t the way to go.”

Based on ideas pioneered by a California inventor named Mike Caldwell, the new fabric is created by using high pressure to bond industrial-grade silicone polymers to individual cotton fibers. The process “encapsulates” each fiber within a thin, resinous barrier, sort of like rice noodles coated in sesame oil. Result: a pliant, breathable, and hydrophobic material that is more stylishly versatile than fleece and doesn’t feel like cardboard after encapsulation—a pernicious side effect when laminates like Gore-Tex are applied to cotton.

Aficionados of cutting-edge fabrics got their first glimpse of the new material at January’s Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City, where Nextec unveiled prototype barn jackets and khakis. The company is now finalizing contracts with L.L. Bean and the Asian skiwear maker Phenix. Duncan’s vision of mountaineers summiting K2 in his parkas, however, may prove to be a fantasy. Industry pros see the new cotton working best as value-added street clothing, since it isn’t as durable or as weatherproof as high-end synthetic performance wear. “I’d love to have a Nextec work shirt or a pair of casual pants,” says Joe Walkuski, a fabric engineer at Patagonia. “But would I wear them ice climbing? No.”


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I’ll Hike Manhattan

A retired corporate exec indulges his pedestrian obsession by taking on the Big Apple

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Block by grimy block, avenue by gritty avenue, Paul Grand is establishing himself as the John Muir of New York’s concrete canyons. After retiring as a vice-president for Colgate-Palmolive, Grand, 58, decided to devise an adventure quest that fused two of his strongest passions: hiking and New York City. He is now engaged in a multiyear expedition that may not be quite as grandiose as the thousand-mile schlepp that Muir made from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico in 1867, but it is surely every bit as bold: hiking nearly all 504.3 paved miles of the streets, boulevards, lanes, ramps, tunnels, passageways, and back alleys that crisscross the island of Manhattan.

As any seasoned Goth.am pavement pound.er will tell you, the traverse from, say, the Harlem River to the South Ferry Terminal is no easy stroll. Grand, however, comes prepared, having made winter treks in the Swiss Alps to alpine villages like Saas-Fee and Zermatt. Limiting himself to a more leisurely pace for this endeavor, he has taken on Manhattan by covering as much as 15 miles a day once a month since his enterprise began in 1997. “I’m a hiker and alpine mountaineer,” he said one morning last December as he left his Highland Park, New Jersey, home for a six-mile ramble through the alternately fetid and tony meat-packing district just north of Greenwich Village. “But I’m consumed by the city. There’s a more expansive palette here than anywhere else. Depravity, squalor, joy, spirituality—all the world exists here. That’s why it’s a great place to hike.”

Dressed in a fishing vest, fleece shirt, and hiking boots, Grand looks like an outing club stalwart who took a wrong turn down a Connecticut trout stream. “I’m prepared for anything,” he says, pointing to an emergency urine bottle dangling from his backpack. Walking briskly, he covers the meat-packing district in concentric passes the way a Zamboni sweeps an ice rink. “Thrilling!” he sputters, pointing at a shadow-draped redbrick facade above the Hellfire Club, a well-known S&M establishment. “Some people walk to go. I walk to see.”

Grand has plotted his course across Manhattan by breaking the borough into zones. So far, he’s tramped every neighborhood below 181st Street save for the affluent Upper East Side, which he dismisses as hopelessly colorless. An avid amateur photographer, he shoots six or seven photographs per hike, and he’ll pull practically any stunt to get exactly the right image. Last summer, on a West Harlem excursion, he scaled a seven-foot wall with $9,000 worth of photographic gear, including four Nikon camera bodies (three with black-and-white film, one with color) and five lenses, to snap a trash-filled lot. “It wasn’t a Motherwell,” he says, “but I saw a painting there. I’m on safari. I’m looking for trophies.”

Of course, Manhattan is only one of New York’s five boroughs. Expeditions to Brooklyn, Queens, and storied old haunts like Coney Island are in the planning stages, but for now, Grand’s focused on tackling Inwood, from 181st Street to The Cloisters. And once he’s walked all of New York City, what then? “I’ll do this for the rest of my life,” he says. “Every three years or so I’ll walk it all again, and I’ll see it differently. Won’t that be wonderful?”

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Beyond the Zone /outdoor-adventure/water-activities/beyond-zone/ Wed, 01 Sep 1999 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/beyond-zone/ Beyond the Zone

Nowhere else on earth do the wonders of man and nature collide so abruptly as they do near the banks of the Panama Canal. From my perch atop a radar tower once used to track drug traffickers’ planes, I peer out over a lush rainforest canopy that flows across lumpy green mountains. Flocks of veridian … Continued

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Beyond the Zone

Nowhere else on earth do the wonders of man and nature collide so abruptly as they do near the banks of the Panama Canal. From my perch atop a radar tower once used to track drug traffickers’ planes, I peer out over a lush rainforest canopy that flows across lumpy green mountains. Flocks of veridian parrots buzz the treetops and disappear over the Caribbean horizon to the north. Howler monkeys crash through the foliage below me. And during my visit, nearly a million migrating hawks have been dotting the skies as they fly south toward the Pacific. Stretched out along a 3.5-million-year-old land bridge, Panama is the ultimate ecological crossroads, a habitat for more than a thousand bird and animal species whose northern- and southernmost ranges overlap, with the result that a country one-fifth the size of California claims a greater variety of species than the entire United States.

The easy way to spot quetzals: Lounge on the deck of a private chalet in Panama's Chiriqui highlands. The easy way to spot quetzals: Lounge on the deck of a private chalet in Panama’s Chiriqui highlands.

At the same time, bisecting this S-shaped isthmus is a gargantuan ditch, the surreal scale of which only becomes clear as I spot the white bow of a 40,000-ton cruise ship that seems to float through the jungle. Mention Panama and it’s this marvel of engineering that first comes to mind. (The United States, which built the Canal between 1904 and 1914, will hand over control of the waterway to Panama at noon on December 31 of this year.) The second popular image of the country, which still dissuades most cruise-ship passengers from disembarking to explore, is that of a banana republic awash in drugs and ruled by pineapple-skinned dictators.

In fact, much has changed in the near-decade since the United States invaded Panama and extricated strongman Manuel Noriega from the scene. The second round of free elections was recently held, and in accordance with the Panama Canal Treaty, the United States is about to complete a two-decade-long process of turning over hundreds of square miles of primary rainforest and tropical beachfront. Already more than four million acres—about a quarter of the country—are protected, more parkland than in any other Central American country, including Costa Rica.
A chunk of this land is a green legacy of the Canal Zone. Most of 1,300 square miles surrounding the Canal is a forested, soil-preserving watershed; the locks depend on freshwater to operate. And large tracts of former U.S. military properties are nearly as undeveloped as they were when occupied almost a century ago.
The long-term U.S. presence has left other positive legacies, including perhaps the most modern road system in Central America, scores of remote airstrips, and a dollar-based, English-friendly economy. Panama is one of the world’s easiest countries for Americans to explore. You can even drink the water right out of the tap.
Unlike neighboring Costa Rica, however, Panama’s ecotourism industry is still in its infancy, and qualified guides are scarce. But there is no shortage of places worth exploring. If you’ve got a week to wander, consider the following itinerary: Fly into Panama City and stay at Rainforest Canopy Tower, a former radar installation that has been converted into a funky lodge for birders and Zone explorers. After a couple of days, puddlejump north to the Caribbean archipelago of Bocas del Toro for an interlude of Robinson Crusoe role-playing and snorkeling. Then drive up into the cloud-forested highlands around Boquete, where the whitewater rafting is superb. If you have time, also investigate the surfing along the Pacific’s Playa Santa Catalina; try deep-sea fishing off Bahía Pina; or trek in the primordial Darien jungle, home of the Emberá, one of Panama’s seven remaining indigenous tribes.
If you do decide to explore Panama, don’t expect deluxe accommodations—or the crowds of tourists who need that kind of hand-holding. Panama may be a country on the brink, with plans to make tourism the nation’s number-two industry in the new millennium, but for adventurous travelers the time to visit is now.

The Canal Zone

Stone's throw away: a pair of feathered Zonies; and Panama City's neon jungle. Stone's throw away: a pair of feathered Zonies; and Panama City's neon jungle.

Close to congested Panama City and punctuated by less than picturesque military facilities, the Zone might not be your first choice when dreaming up a getaway. But come anyway: first, to take an obligatory tour on the Canal, the region’s most popular tourist attraction ($75 for a half-day; 507-228-4348). Stay a day or two to explore oddities like Barro Colorado, an island created when the Canal’s main reservoir was flooded; it’s the site of the Smithsonian’s Tropical Research Institute. (Limited tours are available; call 507-227-6022 for information.)
The best place to bunk is the new Rainforest Canopy Tower, located on a hilltop overlooking 54,600-acre Soberanía National Park. Owner Raúl Arias de Para, the 52-year-old scion of one of Panama’s revolutionary founders, has meticulously transformed a windowless steel cylinder into an airy six-bedroom lodge with teak paneling and a canary-yellow and aquamarine paint job inspired by toucan colors.


The Tower affords unparalleled views of the surrounding forest—more than 250 bird species have been spotted from the deck—but you’ll want to climb down occasionally to explore on foot. It’s worth hiring a guide for at least part of your wanderings to point out well-hidden wildlife and navigate overgrown trails. A reformed poacher named Segundo Jimenez leads Tower guests on twice-daily hikes to nearby sites, including the 400-year-old Las Cruces Trail, once used to transport Inca gold to Caribbean ports.
Or call Hernán Araúz, who’s generally acknowledged to be Panama’s most swashbuckling guide. Son of an anthropologist and a cartographer, 38-year-old Araúz looks more than the part: beard, barrel chest, army fatigues, and an ever-present Colt revolver. (“To ward off the white-lipped peccaries,” he explains. “They are very aggressive.”) In flawless English, he’ll regale you with tales of his dozen Darien crossings—including one about his encounter with a tribe known for getting drunk on the fermented contents of monkeys’ stomachs.
Araúz, who works for the tourism branch of Ancon, Panama’s top private conservation group, can take you anywhere in the country, schedule permitting. Nearby trips include a 45-minute drive north to Fort Sherman, a 32,000-acre, densely jungled former U.S. military base that’s home to sixteenth-century Fort San Lorenzo. Even closer is Pipeline Road, a nine-mile-long, Canal-paralleling track that’s surrounded by one of the world’s most renowned birding meccas: In the Audubon Society’s annual Christmas Bird Count, this area consistently ranks among the top three spots in the Americas. During a hike here last winter, Araúz pointed out not only a slaty-tailed trogon, toucans, and black-cheeked woodpeckers, but also a nest of tiny arboreal ants, a handful of which he crushed and rubbed into his arm. “Mosquito repellent,” he declared.

Bocas del Toro

Hundreds of green sea turtles keep a secret from the tourists who flock to Costa Rica’s Tortuguero beaches each summer to see them nest. On their way north, the turtles migrate through Bocas del Toro, a luscious collection of 68 Caribbean islands that offer deserted beaches as well as snorkeling among dolphins, eagle rays, soft corals, and shallow volcanic tunnels.
Dubbed Veraguas, or Greenwaters, by Columbus, Bocas is now surrounded by a huge banana-growing belt. The ethnic mix of workers is so diverse that the archipelago has adopted its own hybrid language, called Guari-Guari, a melange of Spanish, English, and at least two indigenous dialects. The laid-back Caribbean style of life here is evident in the use of the word tranquilo—the locals’ invariable response when asked how it’s going—and in the languid pace of the water taxis that provide the primary means of transportation. For a few bucks, a taxi will drop you on an empty beach like those on Cayos Zapatillas, where you can stretch out on white sand under a coconut palm all day.


Or you can kick back, as I did, on the veranda of one of the clapboard guest houses on stilts in Isla Colón’s hot spot, Bocas del Toro town, where plantation workers drink rum and dance to reggae bands like the Bastimentos Beach Boys. With a three-stringed bassist and a thumb-strumming guitar player, the ragtag but rhythmically impeccable quartet played an impromptu session at my hotel one night while I gorged on lobster-and-crab seviche and rondon, a seafood potluck—style stew.
Bocas fishermen also traditionally hunt green sea turtles for meat, but Ancon has been working to change attitudes and recently helped secure protection for 14 miles of nesting beaches (and 32,000 acres of reefs and mangrove forests) on Isla Bastimentos and nearby islands. For divers and snorkelers underwater conditions are excellent (except right after rainstorms, when silty river flow cuts visibility). If you’re certified, head out with Bocas Water Sports to Cayo Crawl, the Garden, or Hospital Point, a 50-foot wall off Cayo Nancy. Snorkelers can hire water taxis to ferry them out to the reefs.
Despite the convenience of a 55-minute plane flight from Panama City, Bocas gets only a trickle of foreign travelers. That’s starting to change, however, and Europeans and Americans have begun scooping up beachfront lots for as little as $2,000 an acre. Development in these paradisiacal islands is inevitable, but for the foreseeable future, unpolished Bocas remains slow, peaceful, and nothing near a resort.

The Highlands

When Panamanians want to escape the lowland swelter they head for the Chiriquí highlands surrounding 11,340-foot Volcán Barú on the Costa Rican border. If you reach the highlands via the stomach-churning three-hour bus ride from Bocas del Toro over the Cordillera Central, you can celebrate your safe arrival in Panama’s “Little Switzerland” with fresh-grown coffee and strawberries—and rejuvenating hikes though shady cloud forests.
Ever aware of nearby Costa Rica’s booming tourism business, Chiriquí guides are fond of pointing out the inverse relationship between tourists and quetzals, the green-tailed Holy Grail of birders. Sure enough, my quetzal-free tromps along Costa Rica’s populous trails contrast sharply with a single hike on Barú’s slopes, where my guide showed me four in less than an hour. (The best local hike is Sendero los Quetzales, a five-mile trail that crisscrosses the Río Caldera as it encircles the volcano.)


Or try your luck hanging out near a bird feeder on the deck of a chalet at Carlos Alfaro’s Cabanas los Quetzales, just down the road from the trailhead near the hamlet of Guadalupe. Perched at the edge of La Amistad International Park, a million-acre reserve that straddles the Costa Rican border, Alfaro’s oasis sits among flower-lined paths and stream-fed pools stocked with huge rainbow trout. Alfaro serves them up with organic vegetables grown in his garden at Hotel los Quetzales, a ten-room lodge he recently opened in Guadalupe.
At the eastern end of Sendero los Quetzales lies the high-valley town of Boquete, where many of Panama’s gentry—and a growing number of expatriates—have built sprawling retreats and coffee plantations. From here you can climb Barú, Panama’s gusty high point; on a clear day you can see the island-flecked waters of both the Caribbean and the Pacific.
Without a doubt, though, the Chiriquí’s greatest thrill is the recently introduced diversion of whitewater rafting. A reassuringly safety-conscious local company, Chiriquí River Rafting, offers day trips along the Río Chiriquí or the Chiriquí Viejo, both of which have highly respectable Class III-IV rapids, especially during the May-to-December rainy season. And starting this November, North Carolina—based Nantahala Outdoor Center will colead multiday trips, including some possible first kayak descents.
As more veteran adventure outfits like NOC set up outposts in Panama’s backcountry, the options are going to multiply. What better way to celebrate the new century, in any case, than with a freewheeling tour of a country that’s been a U.S. military and economic asset for much of the century—a country, it turns out, that most of us civilians never knew at all?

Isthums Time: Mapping Your Course Between Two Oceans and Two Continents

When To Go: Panama’s dry season starts in December and lasts through April, but it’s not the only time to visit. Temperatures remain fairly constant all year, with lows in the midseventies and highs in the low nineties. Pacific regions get far less rain than Caribbean areas, where downpours threaten year-round but rarely last long. Panama is thankfully out of the hurricane track that devastated Central America last year. The best advice: Pack a breathable rain jacket and waterproof shoes and go whenever you can.
Getting There: You can fly nonstop to Panama from Atlanta, Dallas, Houston, and Miami for fares starting at $500 round-trip. From Panama City, the country’s four commercial airlines offer affordable domestic flights; round-trip to Bocas del Toro, for example, costs less than $100.


Lodging: The Canal Zone’s Rainforest Canopy Tower is well worth the splurge ($145 per person, including three meals and two nature tours; 507-264-5720). In Bocas del Toro, Cocomo-on-the-Sea boasts terraces with hammocks (doubles, $45, including breakfast; 507-757-9259). Within the highlands’ La Amistad park, Caba±as los Quetzales charges $100 for kitchen-equipped chalets that sleep five to 14 guests; just down the road, in the village of Guadalupe, high-ceilinged, airy doubles at Hotel los Quetzales (507-771-2182) cost $40.
Outfitters: Panama’s premier tour operator, Ancon Expeditions (888-888-4106), employs excellent nature guides, including Hernßn Ara”z, who specializes in Darien treks. Rates range from $50 to $100 per person per day, depending on the activity. Bocas Water Sports (507-757-9541) charges $35 for one-tank dives. Chiriquí River Rafting (507-720-1505) offers one-day whitewater trips for $90 per person; starting in November, Nantahala Outdoor Center will run nine-day kayak trips (about $1,400 per person; 888-662-1662).
Readings: David McCullough’s The Path Between the Seas (Simon & Schuster, $17) is an absorbing account of the canal’s construction. Take along the Lonely Planet Panama Guide, by Scott Doggett (Lonely Planet, $17), and A Guide to the Birds of Panama, by Robert Ridgely and John Gwynne Jr. (Princeton University Press, $40).

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