Hi there. I鈥檓 writing you from a beach in Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico. My wife and I have been coming down here a couple times a year since 2018, were married here just before the pandemic was declared in 2020, and are currently spending two months in town, enjoying the warm weather while we recuperate from a major surgery.
Why do we love it? One of the reasons is for the things it doesn’t have. There are no golf courses, no night clubs, no shopping malls or supermarkets, and honestly not a lot of the other amenities many American tourists deem essential. Which is perfect鈥攖hey鈥檙e the people we are trying to get away from. And while it’s starting to feel a little less like a sleepy seaside town, it’s still very much a haven for people who want to be a part of the local culture.
And it’s a great place to enjoy nature. From the sea turtles nesting on the beach, to the jumping whales I can see as I write this, or the pelicans my dogs are chasing, or the knock-your-socks-off sunsets that happen nightly, it’s just a stunning backdrop for taking it easy.
If you think simple pleasures, a slow pace, and making new friends sounds nice too, then I think you’ll enjoy it. Here’s how I make the most of my time in Todos Santos.
What鈥檚 the Best Way to Get to Todos Santos?
If you鈥檙e visiting from the United States, then it鈥檚 probably going to be easiest and cheapest to fly in and out of San Jose del Cabo (SJD). It鈥檚 serviced by most major airlines, and there鈥檚 direct flights from as far away as Salt Lake City and Denver. La Paz is another option, but its smaller airport isn鈥檛 as convenient.
From there, renting a car is the best option for most travelers who want to venture outside a resort. Conventional taxis and ride share services aren鈥檛 really available here, and outside of the town center, things aren鈥檛 walkable. If you鈥檙e doing that, make sure you book a flight that lands at least four hours before nightfall, so you have plenty of time to take the shuttle bus to the rental car location, go through that checkout process, then complete the hour-and-a-half drive north before it gets dark.
When we borrow cars from local friends, or arrange travel for friends and family, we use for the journey to or from the airport. At $200 one-way, it鈥檚 not cheap, but the vehicles are brand new, the drivers are competent, and the pickup times are 100 percent reliable. The pickup area at SJD is horrifying glimpse into tourist trap hell, and the company gets us out of there as fast as is humanly possible.
There are also various bus services, which can run as low as $50 one-way.
Driving from the U.S. is by far the best way to get here, though. The thousand-mile or so journey from the border is arguably the best camping road trip on earth, and should be on every 黑料吃瓜网 reader’s travel bucket list. We just spent two weeks camping our way down from our home in Bozeman, Montana, and plan to do the same on our way back up, in April. For some reason, Americans are often under the impression that Mexico is dangerous. Statistically speaking, you’re . Road conditions can prove hazardous, though, more on that below.
Where to Stay in Todos Santos
Best Hotel for Budget Travelers
Located just a few minutes鈥 walk from the town center, offers a stylish, comfortable, friendly environment that鈥檚 also affordable. While rooms in the converted motel are clean and basic, the pool, bar, and outdoor hangout spaces provide ample options for socializing, or finding a private place to work or relax.
And while Todos Santos is very safe, travelers showing up by vehicle may appreciate secure parking, if only because the return trip would be evermore challenging without that vehicle. Quinta Santa Rosa鈥檚 friendly staff are happy to open the hotel鈥檚 main gates, so you can roll right into the courtyard. Rooms start at $125 a night.
Best Splurge Hotel
Looking for a splurge? The recently renovated rivals the elegance of the nicest hotels in major cities, complete with old-world charm in a space that was originally constructed in the late 19th century. A small, and very private pool is hidden inside the courtyard, surrounded by marbled verandas. The ten suites are surprisingly spacious, and feel incredibly romantic. But be prepared to pay for all that private luxury. Rooms start at about $1,100 a night, depending on conversion rates.
The first time we visited, we were surprised by the extra taxes tacked onto the advertised room rates by hotels at check out. Don鈥檛 forget to budget for an additional 16 percent in value added tax on top of your total bill.
Want to Rent a House? Do This.
When we rent houses, we use . RARE has the nicest properties in town, and their friendly, helpful staff are always on hand to help out when small problems arise. That level of service really elevates the experience above AirBnBs.
An exception there is , where my buddy Jed rents out three poolside casitas. He lives onsite, and can also offer local insights into anything you want to see or do while you鈥檙e here. Swell is much nicer than anything else costing $72 a night.
Where to Eat in Todos Santos
Food is a big part of this town’s appeal. From the the taco stand in Pescadero (just south of Todos Santos proper), to , Todos Santos Boutique Hotel鈥檚 fine dining restaurant, you just can鈥檛 go wrong. There鈥檚 no way I could fit all my recommendations here, but here’s a start:
FYI, Locals Love Their Italian Food
Want to eat Italian food (a local favorite), while watching an epic sunset? is located in a palapa on a hill above town, giving you excellent views to the coast. Another great Italian option is , located right in the town center. The latter makes all of its own pasta in-house.
Best Mexican Restaurants for Tacos, Quesadillas, and More
Hungry for table service tacos? just north of downtown, or in Las Tunas (that鈥檚 their speciality) are both serviceable, casual, walk-in options. The food at in Cerritos (one hill further south than Pescadero) is better, but involves a 15 minute drive. If you go there, make sure you order a smoked fish quesadilla.
For breakfast, you won’t find friendlier service or better Spanish lessons than those at . For lunch, I usually order tacos de pescado capeado at , but don鈥檛 skip for heartier dishes.
Make time to visit in Pescadero for dinner. That鈥檚 farm-to-table, with food mostly coming from the farm you鈥檙e dining right in the middle of.
Where to Drink in Todos Santos
For Cocktail Enthusiasts
Visit my Norwegian friend Freddy at for one of his handmade cocktails, and good conversation. He鈥檚 open Wednesday to Saturday from 6 P.M., and runs out of barstools fast. in the Todos Santos Boutique Hotel is also great, and you won鈥檛 have a problem finding a seat.
For Wine Lovers
Note that wine is going to be surprisingly expensive, due to taxation and shipping. Sergio Madera is the best sommelier in town (he did our wedding), and works out of , Hotel San Cristobal鈥檚 seafood restaurant. He also does private wine and mezcal tastings. Message him on to arrange one of those.
For Beer Drinkers
Book a bar table (you definitely need a reservation) at , north of town, to coincide with a sunset at some point during your visit. And if, like me, you enjoy a good beer, in Las Tunas is a must visit, with loads of options on tap from Mexico and beyond.
What to Do in Todos Santos
Most people come to shop for art, eat good food, chill at the beach, and surf, all in an environment that鈥檚 still significantly less touristy than anything available in Los Cabos.
Best Beaches for Surf and Sunsets
As a note on beaches, any place near town, north of Pescadero, is going to have a gnarly shore break and dangerous riptides. Go to Pescadero or Cerritos if you want to get in the water. The beaches in town are still great places to hang out and watch the sunset, though. If you want to do that while someone brings you Pi帽a Coladas, day passes at start at about $50 for a couple. Ask for Chacon. Not only does he make a mean drink, but he鈥檒l entertain you with stories all day, too.
Head to the Sierra to Hike
If you like hiking, devote a day to drive out to the Sierra de la Laguna mountains that you can see on the east side of town. There you鈥檒l find scenic swimming holes, cliff jumping spots, and some seriously stunning trails. That’s an especially nice destination when it鈥檚 too hot on the coast鈥攖he mountains reach 6,800 feet above sea level.
Check Out the Art Scene
A great place to start your journey into Todos Santos鈥 art scene is at . There, Michael Cope and Erik Ochoa paint and sculpt in-house, host weekly events, and represent a dozen or so other artists. Michael has lived here for 30 years, and will talk your ear off.
For Ocean 黑料吃瓜网s, Make Friends
Want to go fishing, or explore areas outside of town? You鈥檒l need to make friends, which really isn’t hard to do. There aren’t conventional fishing charters (as Americans understand them), but you can catch a ride on a panga from Punta Lobos if you can talk them into it, and simply throwing a line into the surf usually turns up a catch.
What to Avoid in Todos Santos
Don’t drive after dark in Baja: Seriously. I鈥檓 a trained race-car driver, have worked as a precision driver in car commercials, drive a truck equipped to survive an impact with large animals and with lights that reach a mile into the darkness, and I still try to avoid it when at all possible.
Watch out for road obstructions: Not only are the roads here often too narrow for two vehicles to pass each other safely, but their shoulders are dangerously crumbled, huge potholes and invisible speed bumps abound, and livestock ranges freely across the peninsula. If you haven鈥檛 before traveled to remote, undeveloped parts of the world, the level of danger is nothing like any you鈥檒l have experienced before. Hell, I almost hit a cow on the highway yesterday, in the middle of the afternoon.
Give yourself time to get around: Travel times estimated by navigation apps cannot be relied upon. Allow plenty of extra time to reach your destination before nightfall.
Keep cash close: Speaking of driving, keep some small bills on hand. There鈥檚 about $11 in tolls between here and the airport, and when you stop for gas, the attendant will wash your windshield. In return for that service, hand them 20 pesos.
Text like a local: Like most countries outside of the U.S., people here text via WhatsApp. Go ahead and get that downloaded and setup before you arrive. As an added bonus, WhatsApp is operating system agnostic, so you won’t have trouble with group messages if one of your friends still insists on using an iPhone.
Do You Need to Speak Spanish in Todos Santos?
You鈥檒l certainly have a better time the more Spanish you speak. Neither my wife or I approach fluency, but we鈥檙e learning. And even our limited ability to respect the local culture has enabled use to make friends, which then opens up all manner of interesting new possibilities.
When friends from Bozeman flew down a couple months ago, their half-decent Spanish enabled them to make friends with the manager at a hotel, who then invited them to come fishing with his family the next morning. We know a guy we can text on WhatsApp who will drive us to dinner and back for a few bucks, so we can avoid drinking and driving. When we saw a Mexican trio play at a local bar, we were able to ask them to perform at our wedding. Friends we鈥檝e made here invite us to their homes and events. We can easily make reservations at the best restaurants. And all that takes is a little practice ahead of time, and a willingness to smile our way through a little embarrassment on the frequent occasions we get something entirely wrong. Todos Santos is very much a place for people prepared to do the same.
Wes Siler is 黑料吃瓜网鈥檚 outdoor lifestyle columnist. He writes about the intersections of science, news, politics, gear, vehicles and travel, and travels to Todos Santos every chance he gets. He’s also recently covered $3,000 binoculars that he absolutely didn’t regret, how to make your outdoor gear last almost forever, and new trends in camping gear that are actually centuries old. He and his wife got married at the San Cristobal hotel mentioned above.聽