Want to set up camp on a beach that鈥檚 all your own, dip your toes in clear blue, bathtub-temperature water, and catch a fish听and turn it into tacos? It may sound like a dream, but I鈥檓 hoping this article will听turn that听into as much of a reality for you听as it has been for me over the past few years. Read on for听details about everything I know on听visiting Baja California so you can start planning a trip of your own.
How Should You Get to Baja?
You鈥檝e got two main options: fly or drive. I prefer to drive, so I can bring a capable truck, all of my camping gear, and my dogs. The times I鈥檝e flown have been fun, too, but relying on a rental car or taxi听really limits you to what听few towns exist on the peninsula听and encourages you to stick around a hotel.
Last year听I built听the ultimate Baja camping rig: a brand-new Ford Ranger that unfolds into my very own beach cabana. But you don鈥檛 need something expensive and fancy to have a good time. On one of my favorite trips, I showed up in San Diego with a hastily packed carry-on full of backpacking gear听and hopped听into the back of my friend鈥檚 1987 Toyota 4Runner, alongside his son, his dog, and a 100-liter fridge-freezer full of beer, then spent five days beach popping around听the northern half of the peninsula with them.
If you want to make the most of it, trucking down to this part of Mexico听with a four-wheel-drive vehicle听and good all-terrain tires should be considered the bare minimum, as you can then access dirt roads听and听beaches听without having to worry too much about getting stuck听or damaging a tire.
What Do You Need to Bring to Baja?
On that trip in my buddy鈥檚 4Runner, I forgot to pack a tent. Bad idea.听Sleeping on the open听beach听one night, I was eaten alive by sand fleas. The bites took months to stop itching. You should pack a tent.
My guides to听luxury car-camping gear听and all the latest couple鈥檚 camping equipment apply听in Baja听as much as听anywhere else. Plan for overnight lows that may sometimes reach the high thirties and daytime highs in summer that can exceed 100 degrees. That 4Runner didn鈥檛 have air-conditioning, but it sure would have been nice. A shade听structure of some kind鈥攁 vehicle awning or a self-supporting item鈥攚ould be a good idea, too.
The important thing in Baja isn鈥檛 necessarily comfort, it鈥檚 self-sufficiency. Not only will you be traveling through very remote areas in your vehicle with no cell service, but if you do break down, it鈥檚 possible that it鈥檒l take help days to arrive. That means you should head south听prepared for vehicle repairs, complete with the parts, tools, and necessary knowledge of how to use them in such a situation, as well as听the ability to get your vehicle unstuck from sand, mud, or obstacles. You鈥檒l also want to bring听all the stuff you鈥檇听need or want while camping on the beach, because running out for a six-pack isn鈥檛 exactly easy.
My typical list for vehicle-based adventures on the peninsula includes the following.
Recovery Gear:
- 听($300): If you get stuck听in sand or mud, shove these under your driven听wheels听and drive out. I carry two. Avoid imitators, as you鈥檒l only get a single use out of them.
- A听听($239): While Maxtrax can be used as a rudimentary shovel, they鈥檙e made of nylon, not metal. So听while they鈥檙e useful for scooping sand, they aren鈥檛 enough to move hard earth. If your vehicle gets lodged on a berm or a rock, you鈥檒l probably need to shovel a lot of dirt to get unstuck. The Delta packs small听but is as sturdy and useful as a normal shovel.
- 听(kits $135 and up):听If you can find another vehicle for help, you鈥檒l need to have the appropriate equipment for it to tug you out听or tow you into town. This stuff gets dangerous real fast, so bring your own kit; that way you鈥檒l听know how to use it听and can feel sure that it鈥檚 safe.
Additional Tools:
- A tire-repair kit, an air compressor or a听,听Fix-a-Flat (here鈥檚 how to use it).
- A factory-service or Hayne鈥檚 manual for your specific vehicle.
- Spare parts for any common faults your vehicle may suffer from. Consult the relevant owner鈥檚 forum for recommendations.
- Any special tools or service items necessitated by your aftermarket equipment: if your fancy off-road shocks need a special wrench for adjustment, make sure you pack that.
- J-B Weld epoxy, K-Seal coolant leak repair, duct tape, and strong zip ties.
- A jack that鈥檚 safe to use off-road. Few vehicles come with an adequate jack. If yours doesn鈥檛, replace it with a quality bottle jack, an听, a听, or a听. Add for even more safety.
- A comprehensive, organized tool set that fits your vehicle.
- Any specialized tools your vehicle may require, such as听security Torx wrenches.
- An .
Good Times:
- A quality two-burner car-camping stove:听I recommend 听($299), with 听($41).
- A bulk propane canister that鈥檚 sized to meet your needs. Some of the valves used in Mexico are of a different spec than we use in the U.S., which may make it difficult to refill a tank there听or mean that a tank you buy there may not fit your stove鈥檚 hose.
- A solid camp table (I built mine into my Ford Ranger).
- Comfortable chairs.
- 听(from $960) and 听($850). You don鈥檛 need my solar-panel setup unless you plan to park听and not听drive听for several days. Dometic鈥檚听CFX3 55IM is an ideal size for most couples, plus it makes ice. I carry a two-compartment, 95-liter unit听to support the raw-food diet I feed my three large dogs. Compared to听a cooler, the fridge-freezer eliminates the need for ice听and guarantees that you can transport quality food for extended periods of time without it spoiling.
- Sunscreen.
Where Should You Go in Baja?
Whether you鈥檙e crossing the border from Calexico, California, or San Diego, a good first-night destination for any trip to Baja is .听Not only is this post听just 50 miles south of the border, but you can also book a campsite and private hot spring online, so you have assured accommodation. Each spring and campsite offers a decent听amount of privacy; even though you鈥檙e staying in what amounts to a commercial campground, you won鈥檛 be sharing your picnic table with neighbors. The family that manages the complex is very welcoming.
This destination is located about 30 miles from the highway, reached via听routes that can quickly become impassible in inclement weather, are rough even at the best of times, and lack听much in the way of signage. That creates a good shakedown test for your truck and your navigation skills鈥攏ot to mention your expectations about traveling the peninsula. It鈥檒l take you longer than you expect to get there, and there will probably be a couple of times when听you won鈥檛 be sure you鈥檙e going the right way.
After you arrive and you鈥檙e sitting in the hot spring that evening, think about the drive in. Did your truck ride nicely over all that washboard? If not, would a different tire pressure work better? Were there any squeaks or rattles that you want to address? Did your load听feel secure and well-balanced? Did your maps, apps, and other navigation equipment work like you expected? Are you missing anything you wished you鈥檇 brought? What kind of fuel economy did you get off-road, and how is that going to change your range estimations?
Some very basic supplies are available at the Oasis, but it鈥檚 your next destination to the south that鈥檚 going to give you the last real chance to find the kind of stores and services that鈥檒l be familiar to Americans. From the Oasis, you have the choice to head down to either the Pacific coast听or听the Sea of Cortez. The coast is cooler, with more variable weather. The sea tends to be drier, warmer, and calmer.
Ensenada, to the west, is the larger town. If you go that direction, plan on stopping at for its听famous al pastor tacos. Farther听south, down Highway 1, you鈥檒l find big-box stores like Home Depot, grocery stores like Calimax, and even a Starbucks, if you need reliable Wi-Fi.
If you head down to the Sea of Cortez from the Oasis, you鈥檒l get to San Felipe around听lunchtime. You鈥檒l also find a big Calimax there, just as you enter town. Continue east, and you鈥檒l see the promenade along the beach. That鈥檚 a great place to stop for fish tacos and a margarita.
South of either town is where your adventure will really begin.
Is It Dangerous in Baja?
When my wife and I drove听back from our wedding in Todos Santos a year ago, I had to pay my first-ever bribe. While passing through a little town, looking for access to a remote beach out beyond it, a local cop started following me听and eventually pulled us over. He asked if I spoke Spanish, I said no, and he told me in perfect English that there was one price I could听pay听then and there and听another at the station. I asked him how much, and he told me 4,000 pesos, which is about $200. I handed him a $100 bill, we both smiled, shook hands, and said, 鈥淕racias, amigo.鈥 It was one of the friendliest听interactions I鈥檝e ever had with a cop anywhere in the world, and it was nice that he didn鈥檛 even bother ginning up any sort of accusation of wrongdoing.
There鈥檚 no more noticeable听crime in Baja than you鈥檒l find here at home. Just like in the U.S., be careful about leaving your vehicle unattended, especially if it鈥檚 packed听with nice camping gear and expensive electronics.
The real dangers happen听on the road听and in the water. Even the paved roads in Baja tend to be unpredictable. Brand-new asphalt can turn to dirt around any corner. Vados, or drainage ditches that the road goes down into, are often steeper than you鈥檇 expect. Corners are often blind, off-camber, and decrease in听radius. Guardrails are few and far between. The farther you go down the peninsula, the narrower the highway gets. In some places, there鈥檚 less space than it鈥檒l take to fit oncoming 18-wheelers side by side, but also no shoulders for them to put their outside wheels on. At night, horses, donkeys, and cows roam freely. Slow down听and pay attention. Make sure your vehicle is in good shape听and not loaded beyond its capacity. Air your tires back up anytime you return to pavement.
In the water, both shore breaks and riptides are common. Avoid swimming, boating, paddling, or surfing by yourself. Avoid the water altogether unless you鈥檙e experienced and confident听or are in the company of someone who is.听In Baja, always assume that help is a long way听away at best, and likely not available at all.
What Should You Eat in Baja?
Eat the听tacos. Stop at local restaurants and food stands. Stop at little stores in the middle of nowhere and ask the abuela if she has any burritos. The food in Mexico is amazing.
Away from the big Calimaxes, fresh produce and meat can be hard to come by. That鈥檚 one reason using a fridge to carry that stuff with you is a good idea. It鈥檚 also a great excuse to harvest your own wild protein.
On the Sea of Cortez side, you鈥檒l catch triggerfish by shore-casting with lures. Use those fish to make ceviche on a beach, and turn the parts you don鈥檛 eat into bait for larger fish. Here鈥檚 my favorite recipe.
Triggerfish Ceviche
Ingredients:
- Fish right out of the sea
- Salt
- Pepper
- A bunch of limes
- Chilies
- Cucumber
- Onion
- Cilantro
Instructions:
- Cut the fish up into small pieces, and place in a bowl. Refrigerate unused bits to use as bait.
- Season with salt and pepper, and cover in lime juice. Refrigerate for three to four hours so the acid in the lime juice cures the fish.
- Cut up the vegetables and cilantro, and squeeze some more lime juice on top of them. Refrigerate for one hour.
- When everything is ready, combine all the ingredients, and serve with tortilla chips.
Rocky beaches and cliffs on the Pacific Ocean are home to mussels. Harvest those carefully听using a strong knife or small pry bar. Fresh听mussels cooked on a beach by my friend Ty Brookhart are my favorite meal of all time. Here鈥檚 his recipe.
Saut茅ed Mussels
Ingredients:
- Some sort of fatty pork (pancetta, bacon, or sausage)
- Onions or shallots
- Corn
- Garlic
- Fresh mussels, harvested听that day, soaked in fresh water, scrubbed of any barnacles or seaweed, with their beards plucked
- White wine
- Butter
- Lemon juice
- Pepper
- Crusty bread
- Crushed tomatoes (optional)
- Fennel听(optional)
Instructions:
- Chop your pork up into small bits and and cook it in a hot pan over听high heat until the fat renders.
- Add the听onions, corn,听garlic and other vegetables (if using), and cook for 30 seconds.
- With the heat still on high, add the mussels, tossing frequently until they start to open.
- Add the wine (four听to six fluid ounces per pound of mussels), and let it reduce.
- The mussels should steam open after a couple of minutes in the wine. If the wine steams away before they open, add more wine.
- Once the mussels have opened, make sure there鈥檚 still an ounce or two of reduced wine in the pan, then add the butter and toss to incorporate听until fully melted.
- Add lemon juice and听pepper, and serve. Do not add salt, as the mussels will already be salty.
- Mop up sauce with bread slices.
Where Should You Stay in Baja?
Beyond the Guadalupe Canyon Oasis Hot Springs, I鈥檓 not going to name any precise camping spots. This isn鈥檛 to keep them secret鈥攊t鈥檚 because doing so would spoil your adventure. A big part of the fun is pouring over maps听and spending time on Google Earth听trying to find remote beaches and other suitable destinations, then plotting routes to them. Or heck, just taking a hunch on a dirt road听and finding out what鈥檚 at the end of it.
It鈥檚 a really good idea to create some rough travel plans ahead of time, along with reasonable travel distances for each day you want to be moving. If you鈥檙e just out to have听fun听camping around, I wouldn鈥檛 try to go more than 100 miles in a day, and I鈥檇 spend more than a night at places you enjoy. If you鈥檙e trying to make time on Highway 1, you鈥檒l definitely want to create firm plans around daily destinations, be they hotels or camp spots. Driving after dark gets sketchy fast, and trying to find a place to sleep once night falls can feel impossible.
On the way to and from our wedding in Todos Santos,听my wife and I put in what felt like a solid day听of driving, then tried to find a campsite or hotel听just before sunset. One night听we pulled off the highway, drove a few miles up a wash, and camped in the middle of a cactus forest. Just before sunrise, we were woken by a cacophony of hoots听and realized that every single one of those cacti was home to an owl. It was one of the neatest things I鈥檝e ever experienced. On another night,听it was pouring rain and we were trying to make it to a hotel in Loreto, which ended up taking a few hours longer than we鈥檇 planned. After dark, still miles from town, I came about an inch from hitting a pair of horses standing right in the middle of the highway. At best, that would have totaled our truck, 600 miles south of the border.
As you鈥檙e driving back north, the 听is useful for figuring听out the best crossing. I鈥檝e waited as long as seven hours to get through border traffic before听but have also driven straight up to passport control with no wait whatsoever, thanks to that app. Once you鈥檝e camped on your last beach and then fought traffic through the border and听up toward听San Diego, you鈥檙e going to be tired. Rather than try to put in a bunch of highway miles while you鈥檙e exhausted, I like to just book a night in some nice digs. in downtown San Diego is part of the Kimpton family, a听dog-friendly brand (the policy: if it fits through the door, it鈥檚 welcome), and the valets there have never once turned up their noses at one of my filthy trucks. If there鈥檚 one thing about camping in Baja that鈥檚 universal, it鈥檚 that it鈥檚 going to give you a newfound appreciation听for a hot shower and a comfortable bed.