Two years ago, adventurers looked for new frontiers in Muslim countries. The Arab Spring quickly halted that, and today theyre retreating to Turkeyhome to some of the wildest, if unheralded, landscapes in the region: pristine forests, mountain ranges, and two precipitous, gorgeous coastlines.
ON WHEELS
At first, following my pink-spandex-clad, partially toothless guide seemed unwise. He led us across rocky meadows with armpit-high weeds in central Turkeys Cappadocia, a region with lunar landscapes and ancient cave dwellings. But the rocks gave way to a dozen miles of poppy-lined singletrack and a series of Seuss-like limestone hoodoos, which my group of 12 with Vancouver-based outfitter had to ourselves. Rent a mountain bike from in Goreme ($16) and pedal between caves in the Love, Rose, and Pigeon valleys. Crash in a renovated cave dwelling at (doubles from $215).
ON FOOT
Huffing up a narrow 800-foot, Ansel Adamsworthy gorge, I expected to find mobs of shutter-clicking tourists. Not in Turkey. At , a 90-mile drive south from Cappadocia, there were only wildflowers, waterfalls, snowy 12,000-foot peaks, rare irises, and the occasional passing shepherd. For multi-day treks, book a guide like BikeHike, which can navigate the poorly marked trails and set up catered campsites. Or stay at rustic (cabins from $29 per person) and explore the climbing and day hikes in the parks Kazikli Canyon and Cimbar Valley.
ON WATER
Turks know sea kayaking. First rule: you need a motivating destination. In our case, it was Yoruk Ramazans restaurant, a pleasant two-mile paddle past limestone cliffs on the calm Mediterranean from Ucagiz, a tiny village in southwestern Turkey. Yoruks stunning bay views and simple menufish or meatballsare best with a cold Efes Pilsener. Not hungry? Paddle 2.2 miles southwest past the restaurant until you see old temple ruins on shore. Youre over Dolchiste, a 2,000-year-old submerged city. Look down to see amphorae through 20 feet of clear water. Stay in the seaside village of Kas and rent kayaks from ($35 per day).
ACCESS AND RESOURCES
May and September bring T-shirt weather to Turkey's coastsand fewer visitors than midsummer. Several major carriers fly to Istanbul, and visas are issues on arrival. BikeHide 窪蹋勛圖厙s' 12-day trips ($3,800; bikehike.come) include lodging, ground transportation, activities, and most meals.